
ii 



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Gass Gt,4<^() 



?17 




THE FIRST STEP Oi.. ii^DIAN SOIL-L^., ..xx,v. A. JOMBAY. 
{See Page 109.) 



The Prince of Wales' TouH?i^^' 



A DIARY TN INDL 



WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP 



THE VISITS OF IIIS EOYAL IIIGimESS * 




TO THE COURTS OF 



GREECE, EGYPT, SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. 



WILLIAM HOWARD RUSSELL 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY SYDNEY P. HALL, M. A. 

ARTIST IN THE SUITE OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 



NEW YORK : 

K. WORTIIINGTON, 750 BROADWAY. 

1877. 






By tranef^i: 

MAY 26 !916 






BY PERMISSION TO 

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS 
ALBERT EDWARD, PRINCE OF WALES. 



TO THE READER. 



A FEW words to the reader to explain some rhatters con- 
nected with this book. It is a Journal or Diary kept from 
day to day, in which the Prince of Wales is the central 
figure round which all the things, persons and events men- 
tioned in it revolve, so that if his name and title occur 
repeatedly in the same page, it is necessary, from the nature 
of the work, that they should do so. The impressions re- 
corded by the writer are his ov/n ; and if, as is rarely the 
case, opinions are expressed on questions of policy or of 
government, they must not be ascribed to anyone but to 
him who states them. Wherever the word '' we " occurs, 
the reader is prayed to take it as meaning " the Royal party," 
not as the pronoun in an editorial sense, or as indicative of 
any intent to involve the identity of the Prince with that of 
the gentlemen who accompanied him. 

WILLIAM HOWARD RUSSELL. 
Middle Temple, 1877. 




INTRODUCTION. 



The Prince of Wales told a distinguished audience which had 
been invited by the Governor to meet him at a State Banquet 
soon after his arrival in Bombay, that " it had long been the 
dream of his life to visit India." The idea of a tour in the 
Eastern possessions of the Crown appears to have been first 
suggested by Lord Canning, whilst he was still in India, to the 
Prince Consort as part of the education of the Heir Apparent; 
and it was no doubt included in the great scheme of instruction 
devised for the Prince by one who thoroughly appreciated the 
value of the eye, when it is quick and observant, in aiding the 
other faculties in the acquisition of knowledge, and the power it 
has of impressing the mind — 

" Segnius irritant animos demissa per aurem, 
Quam quae sunt oculis subjecta fidelibus et quse 
Ipse sibi tradit spectator." 

It is probable that the Prince Consort, with his acute intelligence, 
would have perceived the advantages of sending the Prince of 
Wales to learn something of the Empire over which he was one 
day to reign without any such suggestion, and that he would have 
recommended the Queen to include her Indian dominions in the 
programme of travel laid down for him. Lord Canning— the 
first Viceroy, as Lord Northbrook was the l^st— ruled India 
more absolutely, perhaps, than his successors, because he was 
charged with the conduct of affairs during the greatest strain to 



Vlll INTRODUCTION. 

which the Imperial Power had been subjected ; but he was 
deeply convinced, even in the hour of triumph, of the necessity 
of creating some substitute for the prestige of the great authority 
which had been overthrown for ever. The East India " Com- 
pany" to the princes and peoples of India was not an empty 
abstraction. In the recesses of the national brain, mixed up 
with images of mythological personages and of their heavenly 
attributes, there was a dim conception of it, as of a great physical 
force, of which there were manifestations in the paraphernalia of 
executive power, the dignity of the magistrature, and in armies 
terrible with banners. To the princes and peoples the Gover- 
nor-General was, after all, only the servant of the " Company," 
for they saw that the haughtiest and most powerful of them all 
was so swayed by its decrees that, if the " Company " pleased, 
he could be swept clean oil the scene of his apparent domination. 
When the Queen's Proclamation, which may be styled the Magna 
Charta of India, was read to the Chiefs assembled at Allahabad 
on the ist November, 18^2, there were few of them — ^and they 
were not many there — who could understand what was the power 
which had destroyed the East India Company, and what au- 
thority replaced it. The Oudh Talukdars, who remained in arms, 
would not give faith to promises made to them in the name of 
" the Queen." Even the soldiers of the British regiments of the 
East India Company's army refused to recognize the right of the 
Crown and of Parliament to transfer their allegiance and ser- 
vices without their consent ; and a very great danger arising from 
their discontent, which Lord Clyde and Sir W. Mansfield regard- 
ed with profound apprehension, was only averted by manage- 
ment and concession. The Governor-General saw how desirable 
it was, at a time when the basis on which our authority rested 
had been shaken to the very foundation, that India should have 
an outward and visible sign of the personal existence of the 
Power which had control of her destinies ; and he appreciated 
the great benefits which would accrue from personal intercourse 
with her princes and people to one who would occupy a position 
in which he must exercise immense influence over the direction 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

of affairs — not the less because exercised indirectly and without 
responsibility. But the Prince of Wales was only seventeen 
years of age. Circumstances, such as the lamented deaths of 
Lord Elgin and General Bruce, caused the intended visit to be 
deferred, after it had been accepted as an incident in a general 
scheme of travel ; and the activity of the Prince's disposition 
found opportunities for development, meantime, in tours in 
foreign countries, and in constant participation in functions of 
State importance, or of a national character, at home. The 
journey of the Duke of Edinburgh, which had been seized upon 
by the Princes of India as an occasion for lavish offers of sjDlen- 
did hospitality, and for profuse munificence, had given already 
some indication of the manner in which his elder brother. Heir 
to the Throne, would be feted and welcomed whenever he could 
go amongst them. 

But the deplorable assassination of the Earl of Mayo, unit- 
ed with the memory of other sinister events, suggested the 
necessity of caution, and increased the dread of responsibility of 
those who were charged wnth the action of government in such 
a matter. The Prince of Wales could not travel incognito in 
India. His movements would be known to all the world before- 
hand. There, no doubt, were men who would esteem themselves 
happy in venturing their lives on the chance of destroying one 
so dear to Eeringhee rulers. Religious passion " and study of 
revenge, immortal hate," might arm many a desperate hand ; 
and certain exhibitions of the fanaticism of the Wahabee, or of 
the strong prejudices of the Hindoo, showed that the apprehen- 
sions of those who considered that no precautions should . be 
neglected were worthy of the gravest consideration. 

In the winter of 1874, the project of a tour to India in the 
autumn of the following year became the' subject of anxious 
deliberation, and communications passed between the authorities 
with a view to an understanding as to the manner of the visit. 
There were obstacles to be overcome, or at least there were 
objections to be removed in high places, for such an expedition 
had never been undertaken by any personage in the Prince of 



X INTRODUCTION. 

Wales's position in any period of our history. Royal visitors 
India has had and to spare. They came upon her — nameless 
Chiefs at the head of their invading hordes — long ere Alexander, 
well knowing that there were more worlds to conquer beyond its 
waters, was obliged to abandon the object of his heart's desire 
on the banks of the Beas. Timour and Baber, Mahmoud of 
Ghuznee, and Nadir Shah — these were terrible visitors indeed. 
Each represented the temporary overthrow of ancient dynasties, 
invasion, and wide-spread destruction, or conquest, occu|)ation, 
and the permanent establishment of foreign rule. More recently 
there have been visitors of royal races of a more amiable type. 
Prince Adalbert of Prussia rode by the side of our victori- 
ous Generals in one of the most famous of Indian battle-fields, 
when the supremacy of Great Britain was challenged by the 
Khalsa. The King of the Belgians, ere he was called to the 
throne, included part of India in his course of travel. The Duke 
of Edinburgh, in the course of his interesting but rapid excursion, 
had some experience of the honors which would await the Heir 
to the Throne. But the position of the Prince of Wales, not 
only in its relation to the State at home and to the Indian Govern- 
ment, but in its bearings on the politics of Hindoostan, was 
totally different from that of any previous visitor. Never, with 
the exception of the Prince Regent, had an Heir Apparent been 
so much before the public eye, and never had any Prince of the 
Blood in direct succession to the throne been entrusted in the 
lifetime of the reigning Sovereign v/ith so large a part of the 
functions of Sovereignty. The Prince was, owing to circum- 
stances of which no one questioned the force, in such a position 
that it seemed scarcely possible that his absence from the country 
for half a year and more would not be attended with serious incon- 
veniences. Those who followed the course of his life, as it was 
evolved from the exercise of one public act after another, best 
understood how incessant had been his labors in endeavoring 
to meet the demands of the country for Royal sanction and per- 
sonal encouragement of the works of which they are considered 
the fitting complement. The Prince of Wales, however, felt that 



INTRODUCTION. XI 

it was his " mission " to go to India, and he resolved to fulfil it. 
But for the strong insistance of the Prince, the dream of his life 
might not have been realized ; and whatever advantages may be 
derived from the tour must be attributed to the power of volition 
before which obstacles vanished, and to the force of conviction 
which defeated objections and overcame dissuasion. In the be- 
ginning of January, 1875, it was known that the project was 
seriously entertained, and soon afterwards it was spread abroad 
that the visit would be made in the ensuing autumn. Long be- 
fore the intention was communicated to the world at large, pro- 
grammes were sketched out and plans were prepared, the Indian 
authorities were consulted, and the Residents at great Native 
Courts had warning that the Prince might soon appear among 
them. 

On the 1 6th of March the Marquess of Salisbury made an 
official announcement to the Council of India of the intended 
visit of the Prince of Wales, and the Council then passed a reso- 
lution that the expenses of the journey should be charged on the 
revenue of India ; but at a meeting of the Council on the 27th of 
April, they passed a further resolution that it was only the expendi- 
ture which was actually incurred in India which should be charged 
on the revenues of that country. The " Times " of Saturday, March 
20th, contained a short paragraph to the effect that the report of 
the Prince of Wales' intention to visit India towards the close of 
the year was true. This statement must have appeared to those 
in authority to have been a little too absolute, for on Monday, 
2 2d, there appeared another paragraph, inserted in the space 
usually allotted to official announcements, as follows : — " We 
have authority to state that the report of the intention of his 
Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to visit India is well found- 
ed, and that his Royal Highness will leave England for that pur- 
pose — should no. unforeseen obstacle arise — in the month of 
November. Sir Bartle Frere will accompany the Prince of Wales 
at the express wish of his Royal Highness." A flood of articles 
was at once poured out by the press. There was a general ex- 
pression of opinion that it was right for the Prince to visit Hin- 



XU INTRODUCTION. 

dostan. India had lately gained a new and rather painful inter- 
est for the people of England. The country, they were told, had 
just been rescued from the jaws of famine. About that time the 
deposition of the Gaekwar of Baroda and the inquiry into his 
coniplicity in the attempt to poison Colonel Phayre, caused peo- 
ple who would have been puzzled a short time before to decide 
whether the Gaekwar was a person or a thing, a man or a State, 
to read about India. The general relations of the great feuda- 
tories — the Chiefs of States with Treaty rights — and of the 
Crown were critically examined, and many homilies were deliver- 
ed on the duties of Sovereign States to their dependencies, and 
on the blessings of civilization to uncivilized nations. A sensa- 
tion of surprise was experienced by many people at the discovery 
that there were Native States in India which had some sort of 
autonomy — a despotism tempered by Residents — and something 
like alarm evinced when the papers reproduced from an Indian 
journal a most formidable looking muster-roll of the " armies " 
of the Native Chiefs, with their many thousands of horse, foot, 
and cannon. 

The comm.on " Aryanismus " of the races was, however, much 
urged on the notice of the world as a reason for mutual relations. 
It was pointed out that the Hindoo and his master were after all 
made of the same clay, that " Blacks were not so black — nor 
Whites so very white." It may be quite true that at some period, 
which conjecture cannot aspire to reach. Central Asia, the scBva 
mater of nations, poured forth the hordes which peopled Europe 
and Hindostan alike, though it is as difficult to persuade the 
Englishman of to-day that the Hindoo is his brother as it was 
to impress on the average Englishman of the early part and 
middle of the last century that the Negro was a brother, or that 
he was a man at all. 

"An immense respect (wrote the 'Times' on 23d March) 
is due from the conquerors of India to the venerable kingdoms, 
institutions, and traditions of which they have become the politi- 
cal heirs, and an adequate manifestation of this feeling has 
always been one of the great wants of our Indian administration. 



INTRODUCTION. XIU 

Changes of dynasty are the lot of ail nations, but the English 
dominion must in some respects have represented this revolution 
in a peculiarly unpalatable form to a people with whom the 
hereditary principle is not a secondary but a primary nature. The 
rule of strangers, who to their eyes carry no hereditary dignity, 
could not fail to be especially distasteful." These are sentiments 
which many Indians feel ; but the policy of the Prince's visit 
was eventually justified by the impression produced by his pres- 
ence. There were not wanting some who predicted greater 
benefits than could reasonably have been expected from^ it ; nor 
were others who asserted that' the difficulties of the Government 
of India would be increased, by the paling of their splendors, 
left voiceless. Hitherto they would appear to have been false 
prophets. 

The final step was taken. There were reasons which would 
always justify uneasiness at the protracted absence of the Heir 
to the Throne from the United Kingdom ; but there were also 
reasons which rendered it highly desirable he should visit that 
portion of the Empire, in right of which the Crown is Imperial. 
If there was a feeling that there would be a void in society and 
in all the great functions over which Royalty usually presides 
while he was away, it was felt, too, that his Royal Highness had 
earned his right to such repose, and that he was entitled to a 
little respite from ceremonial observances. The effects of the 
protracted, and all but mortal, illness which brought the nation, 
as it were, to the doors of Sandringham, rendered it expedient 
that the Prince should not be exposed to another winter in 
England if it could be avoided. The anticipations of repose 
were scarcely justified, for there was but little cessation of work 
in India ; but the strength and energy which the Prince display- 
ed proved that his medical advisers had judged rightly of the 
beneficial effects of escape from an English winter. 

It was now necessary to provide the Prince with a fol- 
lowing suitable to one who would be regarded by princes 
and people as an Imperial Ambassador of a rank and dignity 
towering far above the highest of their ancient dynasties. But 



XIV INTRODUCTION. 

those who imagined that the presence of the greatest statesman 
or noble would lend additional dignity or importance to the 
Heir Apparent's avatar, could not have understood how very 
isfnorant and indifferent most of the Chiefs and the masses of 
the people are to what pass in Great Britain as matters of deep- 
est gravit}'. The more intelligent natives are acquainted with 
the names and views of those who deal wath Indian topics in 
Parliament ; but the Resident, the Collector, and the Magistrate 
represent to them the whole force — the}^ certainly do not always 
represent the splendor — of the State. The Duke of Sutherland's 
name, known so widely in Great Britain, had reached the ears 
of comparatively few in India. On the other hand, the name of 
Sir Bartle Frere, which only became familiar to all people at 
home after his successful mission to Zanzibar, was a household 
word with millions of people in Bombay and in the north-west of 
India. In the earty part of 1875 ^^^ latter was informed that 
the Prince of Wales wished to have the benefits of his experience 
during the Expedition ; and about the same time, or somewhat 
earlier, the Duke of Sutherland received an invitation to form 
one of the suite to which his rank gave such weight. Lord Suf- 
field, the head of the Prince's Household, was naturally selected 
to accompany his Royal master ; Colonel Ellis, Equerry to the 
Prince, who had served in India, was also nominated, and was 
charged with most delicate and difficult functions in administer- 
ing, in conjunction with Sir Bartle Frere, the affairs of finance 
and presents. Major-General Probyn, whose confidence in the 
success of the visit, which he strenuously advised, was strong 
from the beginning, was engaged in making arrangements for 
horses, transport, and sporting at an early period of the year. 
Mr. Francis Knollys, the Prince's Private Secretary, completed 
the Hst of selections from members of the Royal Household. A 
valued servant of the Queen, Lord Alfred Paget, Clerk Marshal, 
who had known the Prince from his earliest childhood, unde- 
terred by any consideration respecting the possible influences of 
an Indian climate on a frame which, despite robust health, had 
lost the resisting forces of youth, was desirous to accompany one 



INTRODUCTION. XV 

to whom he was so much attached, and his desires were gratified. 
The Rev. Canon Duckworth was selected as Chaplain to the 
Prince, and Dr. Fayrer was entrusted with the onerous and respon- 
sible duty of watching over the Prince's health. The Earl of Ayles- 
ford, Lord Carington, and Colonel 0\ven Williams, personal 
friends, were invited to join the party. Lieutenant Lord Charles 
Beresford, who had accompanied the Duke of Edinburgh in his 
Indian tour, lent his unflagging gayety, his practical knowledge 
and professional experience, to the Royal suite, which received 
another agreeable accession in the person of Lieutenant Fitz- 
George, of the Rifle Brigade. Mr. S. P. Hall, whose sympa- 
thetic and skilful pencil had gained him high reputation, re- 
ceived a commission to sketch the incidents of the tour. Mr. 
Albert Grey, Private Secretary to Sir Bartle Frere ; and the 
writer of this record, temporarily attached as Hon. Private 
Secretary to the Prince, completed the list of those who formed 
the suite of his Royal Highness. 

There was but one cloud resting on the horizon to which all 
eyes were turned. Those concerned in the' government of the 
State, responsible to the country for the trust on which so much 
depended, could not but perceive the objections to the absence 
of the Princess of Wales from her children ; and it was equally 
obvious that at would be most unwise to expose them to the 
climate of India at the time of life when it is most dangerous. 
It may well be conceived how painful it was to know that a 
separation, which would cause so much grief to her Royal High- 
ness the Princess of Wales, was drawing near at hand. 

When the map of India was laid on the table, immediately 
there came to the surface the difficulty of getting many places 
within the limits of the time which the prince could devote to his 
visit. In a general way, the limits of his Royal Highness's tour 
in India were marked by thermometer. Dr. Fayrer was very 
decided in putting the beginning of November as the earliest 
date at which the Prince should arrive, and in fixing on the 
early weeks of March as the latest period at which he ought to 
attempt to come home through the Red Sea. There were cer- 



XVi INTRODUCTION. 

tain broad lines to be followed; but a line ends in points, and 
at the outset there was some hesitation in determining whether 
it would be better to begin at Calcutta or at Bombay. The 
claims of Cashmere and of Ceylon seemed to clash. The passes 
into Cashmere are not open till the hot weather has begun in 
the plains, and it was of the first necessity that the Prince should 
not be exposed to long joiirneys at unhealthy seasons, and to 
rapid transitions from cold to heat. Several attempts were made 
to divert the Prince from his purpose of visiting Ceylon, but he 
was inexorable as well as penetrating ; and it is said that once, 
at one little " Indian Council " at Marlborough House, there 
was a map produced in which Ceylon did not appear, when the 
routes were being laid down and discussed, but that a Royal 
demand, "Where is Ceylon ? " rendered the stratagem, if such 
it were, of no avail. The trip to Cashmere assumed an uncer- 
tain aspect ; that to the Deccan was, for several reasons, doubt- 
ful ; but to Ceylon the Prince adhered with invincible firmness, 
undeterred by " sanitary considerations " and medical reports, 
which, sooth to say, were damaged in their authority by the very 
opposite opinions of the cognoscenti. As early as the third week 
in May, the routes of the Prince were laid down from the 17th 
of October, on which day he was to set out on his voyage, to the 
date of his arrival in Calcutta, before Christmas Day. Already 
the Residents at the Native Courts were enabled to convey m jst 
satisfactory intelligence respecting the manner in wliich ilie 
Princes had received the announcement that the Prince would 
visit India; and the demands made for his Royal Highness' 
presence a few days here and a week there, urged with the most 
perfect conviction, could not have been satisfied in a twelve- 
month. Already requests were made from India that there 
should be no further delay in buying horses for the Prince and 
his suite ; and it was suggested that an officer of the rank of 
Major- General, with a proper Staff, should be placed at the iiead 
of the carriage and transport department. At the period of 
which I speak, the Government had given no intimation of their 
intentions as to money; and if the Prince was to start in October, 



INTRODUCTION. XVII 

there was not much time to order carriages and gifts of honor ; 
but until the money had been voted, it would have been impos- 
sible to have laid down any precise scheme of expenditure. The 
preliminary arrangements were, however, advanced as far as was 
practicable. It was decided that the presents should be placed in 
the charge of a special Staff from the India Office ; that gold 
and silver medals should be struck for presentation to the Chiefs ; 
and it was further understood that the Queen would issue a war- 
rant to authorize the Prince of Wales to hold a special Chapter 
of the Order of the Star of India at Calcutta*. 

The interest which was taken in the visit increased as the 
country had time to reflect upon the subject. Articles in the 
press, and communications between the authorities in India and 
at home, increased in number and importance. Whatever might 
be the wishes of the Government, it was plain that the Prince 
could not be other than paramount when in India ; and it was 
therefore matter of consideration that his exalted position should 
not cause that of the Viceroy and Governor-General to be unduly 
depreciated. It may now be asserted that the apprehensions 
which were entertained on that ground had no solidity. Even if 
the brightness of the Viceregal luminary had been subjected to 
temporary eclipse, it is evident that there could have been no 
permanent diminution of it after the Prince's transit, and that as 
long as the transit was occurring, no official measures could have 
prevented some little dimming of the splendor of the official sun. 

On the 15th of April Mr. Hankey put a question to the Gov- 
ernment. He asked " whether it was intended, in the event of 
the Prince of Wales visiting India, to propose to Parliament to 
make such provision as would enable his Royal Highness to 
discharge such duties as might be considered befitting his position 
as the representative of Her Majesty with becoming dignity?" 
Mr. Disraeli's reply evinced a certain dislike to any early an- 
nouncement of the intentions of the Government ; he would not 
even admit that the Prince was going to India at all, and de- 
scribed the question as " hypothetical." He apprehended, he 
said, that, in the event of the Prince visiting India, he would not 



XVIU INTRODUCTION. 

visit it as the representative of the Queen. The Viceroy would 
continue to fulfil the duties of that office. But he might say 
generally, that if the Government had to make any public com- 
munication on the subject the House of Commons would be the 
first body in the country to which that communication would be 
made. 

Doubtless, on grounds which commended themselves to 
official prudence, Mr. Disraeli refused to acknowledge thatthere 
would be any demand made on the Exchequer, even as late as 
the 3d of June. Replying on that day to Mr. Leith, who asked 
" whether the expenses of the Prince of Wales would be charged 
to the Imperial or to the Indian Exchequer ? " the Prime Minister 
protested against honorable members " assuming that there was 
to be a grant of public money proposed, and on that assumption 
asking questions " which should be reserved till such a proposal 
was made. On the 5th of July, however, Mr. Disraeli gave 
notice that he would the week following make a statement on 
the House going into Committee of Supply respecting the visit 
of the Prince to India, and that he would submit an estimate of 
expenditure. On the 8th of July the Premier made the promised 
statement to a full House, and succeeded in attracting the sym- 
pathies of his audience in no ordinary degree to the objects of 
the Prince's intended journey ; but in the phraseology of the 
Minister there might be detected a -sense of the responsibility 
which rested on those who had any share in sanctioning the en- 
terprise. He alluded to the previous travels of the Prince in 
various parts of the Queen's dominions, and drawing a distinc- 
tion between what was best suited to those who were, and to 
those who were not. Royal personages, observed that though he 
could not say that travel was the best education, he would ven- 
ture to assert that travel was the best education for Princes. 
But the visit of the Prince of Wales to India would be, he said, 
unlike his previous travels. The rules and regulations which 
sufficed for the Prince in Canada and in the Colonies would not 
be adapted for India. One remarkable feature of Oriental man- 
ners was the exchange of presents between visitors and their 



INTRODUCTION. XIX 

hosts. The Viceroy thought that ceremonial presents need not 
be given or received, but it was necessary to place the Prince in 
a position in which he could exercise the spontaneous feelings 
of generosity and splendor which belonged to his character. It 
was also necessary to gratify the feelings of the Native Princes. 
The ordinary rule was that the presents made by Native Chiefs 
was sold, and the amount carried to the credit of Government, 
which made presents of corresponding value to the donors ; but 
it was evident that, on the occasion of the visit of the Prince of 
Wales, such a course would be undignified and distasteful. The 
Prince would be the guest of the Viceroy from the moment he 
landed on Indian soil. That was the strongly-expressed opinion 
and wish of the Viceroy, who highly approved of the visit, and 
believed it would be attended with great benefit to India and to 
this country. The expense of that part of the reception would 
not be considerable, for it would be confined to the rites of hos- 
pitality, and the sum of 30,000/. had been m.entioned casually as 
the amount which might be charged against the Indian Budget 
on that head. The estimate of the Admiralty for the expenses 
of the voyage to and from India, and of the movements of the 
fleet in connection with it, came to 52,000/. With respect to 
other charges, Mr. Disraeli pointed out that the Prince did not 
go to India as " the representative of the Queen," but as " the 
Heir Apparent of the Crown." Without interfering in any way 
with the legal and constitutional character of the Viceroy, the 
Prince would nevertheless be placed in a position which would 
impress the mind of India with a sense of his real dignity and 
importance. To meet the personal expenses of his visit, it was 
proposed to move a vote for a sum of 60,000/. in the next Com- 
mittee of Supply. 

This announcement, of the intentions of Government was 
almost disappointing to the country. Letters, in which the im- 
policy of a stinted allowance was demonstrated, and strong rea- 
sons were adduced for the asseration that the sum of 60,000/. 
would not suffice for the legitimate and becoming expenditure of 
the Prince, appeared in the public papers. The distinction be- 



XX . INTRODUCTION. 

tween the appearance of the Prince in India as the representa- 
tive of the Queen and as the Heir to the Throne might have 
been understood by the House of Commons, or by logical minds 
in Europe, but it was one which, as events proved, the natives 
of India could not appreciate. When the resolution was brought 
forward in Committee of Supply, on the 15th of July, Mr. Faw- 
cett considered it necessary to raise a discussion which was 
much to be regretted. He moved, as an amendment, " that it 
was inexpedient that any part of the expenses of the general 
entertainment of the Prince of Wales should be charged on the 
revenues of India." Mr. Fawcett's objections to the vote were 
founded partly on sentimental, partly on abstract politico- 
economical reasonings. He pointed out instances in which 
India had been charged with expenses for entertainment of an 
Imperial character with which- India had nothing to do — such 
as the Ball to the Sultan, the visit of the Duke of Edin- 
burgh, the carriage of Royal presents to England, the fee of 
400/. paid to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster for the 
erection of the monument to Sir Herbert Edwardes — and in- 
troduced other matters which might have been appropriate 
in a general discussion on the distribution of taxation and 
expenditure, but which had no bearing on the Prince's 
tour. The honesty of purpose of Mr. Fawcett and the value 
to India of his laborious advocacy cannot be doubted, and there 
may be need of both, especially in a body which is dealing 
with the resources of a country in which the principle that 
taxation and representation go together has no existence. The 
debate which ensued was interesting and animated, but the great 
weight of authority was against Mr. Fawcett, and he was not 
supported by the leaders of the various sections of the Opposi- 
tion. The Liberal party, or the Whig section of it, certainly 
seemed rather disposed to attack the Government on the ground 
that their proposal was illiberal and parsimonious, and there was 
some talk of an amendment in quite a different sense from that 
of Mr. Fawcett. Lord Hartington was known to have expressed 
most generous views as to the Royal allowance, and there is no 



INTRODUCTION. >:X1 

doubt that had a quarter of a million been asked it would have 
been granted — a much larger sum, indeed, was named out of 
doors for the probable expenditure, and there were people who 
went about deploring the fate of the Chancellor of the Ex- 
chequer, who would certainly be called upon for 500,000/. or 
750,000/. for the Indian tour. In a house of 446 members 
Mr. Fawcett found only 32 to agree with him in the view that 
India should not contribute to the expenses of the tour. It may 
be very fairly asserted, however, after the experience of the great 
interest which the Prince's presence created, that if the people 
of India had enjoyed the franchise they would have disapproved 
of the conduct of any representative who objected to a contribu- 
tion to his Royal Highness' expenses from the Indian exche- 
quer. It is not easy to comprehend the exact nature of the 
reasons which led Mr. Disraeli to insist on the necessity of the 
Prince of Wales being the "guest" of the "Viceroy" in the face 
of the fact that he was moving the House of Commons to make 
adequate provision for the extra expenditure which would be 
necessitated by the visit, and that he was expressly intimating 
that the cost of the Prince's entertainment in India would be 
borne by the Indian Budget. He, however, pressed the point 
with energy, and drew a. vivid picture of the extraordinary pomp 
and circumstance which would necessarily surround the Prince 
if he were to go as the representative of the Queen. He 
would have to exchange the presents of Europe for presents of 
Ormus and of Ind. He would have to hold Durbars, to travel 
with Princes in his train. He would not only be present at 
feasts — he would preside at festivals." Now all these things the 
Prince did in his non-representative capacity. The Prince ex- 
changed the presents of Europe for the presents of Ind, and per- 
haps for some which might have come via " Ormus ;" he held 
Durbars, he was attended by Princes, he presided at festivals, 
and yet he did it all for less than the sum which Parliament 
granted, under a sort of protest from Lord Hartington, strength- 
ened by many expressions of opinion in and out of the House, 
on account of its inadequacy. The " Times " next day wrote, 



XXU INTRODUCTION. 

what every one said and felt to be the truth — " The Prince must 
exercise extraordinary powers of management if Mr. Disraeli 
has not to ask for a supplementary estimate next year." Not 
only was the sum not exceeded, but there was a small surplus ; 
not only was it not necessary to propose a supplementary grant, 
but it was the pleasing duty of the Minister, after a careful audit 
of the accounts had been made, to report that there still remain- 
ed some money, which it was proposed to leave at the Prince's 
disposal with the unanimous consent of the House. It is only 
just to state that at all the Courts where the Royal visitor was 
welcomed there was no lack of souvenirs and no stint of prince- 
ly largesse, and avoiding any odious comparisons, that the pres- 
ents made in India, if necessarily wanting in the infinite variety 
of form and diversity of nature which were exhibited in the gifts 
of the Native Chiefs, were of great substantial value and of 
beautiful workmanship. 

As to the tour itself, those who read the following pages will 
see the force of the metaphor of Bacon, that " Princes are like 
to heavenly bodies, which cause good or evil times, and which 
have much veneration, but no rest." According to all testimony, 
there -has been no evil but much good caused by the visit among 
the princes and people of Hindostan, and it would be unjust to 
attach to it any consequences which may result from acts sup- 
posed to be justified by the enthusiasm with which the Prince 
was received, or to be called for by State and policy conveni- 
ence. The famine which is now ravaging so much of the land 
which the Royal traveller saw wreathed with smiles and decked 
in gala attire, would have occurred whether he had gone or not ; 
but the suffering people have now the consolation of knowing 
that they have secured the active sympathy of a powerful friend ; 
and the Native Chiefs, and those whom they rule, under the pro- 
tection and supreme sway of the Paramount Power, have the 
assurance that the attention of their fellow-subjects at home has 
been directed to their condition with a keener interest, and with 
a determination that they shall be ruled in righteousness and 
justice. 



INTRODUCTION. XXIU 



FROM LONDON TO BRINDISI. 

l'envoi. 

This narrative of the Prince of Wales' tour, as far as my per- 
sonal knowledge of it is concerned, must begin at Brindisi, as it 
was there that the two divisions of the Royal suite were united. 
The Queen was at Balmoral Castle at the time of the Prince's de- 
parture from London, which took place on Monday, October nth, 
some days earlier than the date which had been determined upon 
in the early programmes. On Sunday, October lo, the Prince and 
Princess attended Divine Service in the Chapel Royal. They 
received the Duke of Edinburgh and the Duke of Connaught at 
luncheon. In the evening there was a farewell dinner at Marl- 
borough House, to which the members of the Royal Family then 
in London, and a few personal friends, were invited. In the 
forenoon, Dean Stanley preached an eloquent sermon in West- 
minster Abbey (the text taken from Esther i., viii. 6), in 
which he expatiated on the journey " of the first Heir to the 
English Throne who has ever visited those distant regions, 
which the greatest of his ancestors, Alfred the Great, one thou- 
sand years ago, so ardently longed to explore." He concluded 
with an earnest prayer that the visit might leave behind it, on 
one side, •' the remembrance, if so be, of graceful acts, kind 
words, English nobleness, Christian principle ; and on the other, 
awaken in all concerned the sense of graver duties, wider sym- 
pathies, loftier purposes. Thus, and thus only, shall the journey 
on which the Church and nation now pronounce its parting 
benediction be worthy of a Christian Empire, and worthy 
of an English Prince." The circumstances under which the 
Prince of Wales was about to visit India, and those under which 
Alfred the Great desired to open commercial relations with it 



XXIV INTRODUCTION. 

(there is scarcely any ground for stating that he ever contem- 
plated a visit or longed to go to India) differed very considera- 
bly ; but a study of the old travellers' stories leads one to think 
that, given the means of locomotion and time, it was not so very 
difficult to reach " Cathay and Ind" in remote times as it might 
be supposed to be from later narratives. 

The chronicles of the day relate how deep an interest was 
taken by the public in the arrangements for this enterpiising 
journey. On Monday all the morning and evening papers 
published leading articles, in which the warmest aspirations, not 
quite free from uneasiness, on account of " considerations which 
should quicken caution, though they need scarcely cause anxiety," 
were expressed for the Prince's happiness and safe return." The 
life of the Prince of Wales," observed the leading journal, " is 
a very precious one ; how precious, indeed, in the judgment of 
the country, the national anxiety in the autumn of 187 1 indis- 
putably showed ; and his welfare is dear to us all." The great 
crowd which assembled on the evening of October nth to bid 
him " God speed," at Charing Cross Station an hour before the 
departure of the special train, afforded ample testimony to the 
truth of these words. 

There was, of course, a Royal Guard of Honor on the plat- 
form ; but there was also a gathering of friends, for whom the 
station was all too small. When the Prince and Princess made 
their appearance, and walked slowly down the platform towards 
the train, between the line of soldiery and the great concourse 
of people, there was a demonstration, in which it would be hard 
to say whether a feeling of sadness at the Prince's departure and 
at his wife's emotion, or the desire to assure the Royal couple of 
enduring and affectionate loyalty, predominated. Cheers and 
waving of handkerchiefs — moistened eyes, quivering lips — and 
many an audible " God bless you ! " At 8 o'clock p. m. the train 
glided out of the station. The memorable journey had fairly 
begun. At 9.20 p. m. the train stopped at Ashford, where the 
Duke of Edinburgh and the Duke of Connaught bade the Prince 
of Wales adieu. At 9.53 p. m. the train reached Dover, where 



INTRODUCTION. XXV 

6000 or 7000 people had assembled along the approaches to the 
Admiralty Pier. All the naval, military, and civil authorities 
were in waiting to receive the Royal travellers. There was a 
Guard of Honor of the 104th Regiment, a detachment of the 
78th Highlanders lined the pier platforms. The weather had 
been very rough for some days and nights previously, but wind 
and sea had obsequiously gone down, and there was every promise 
that no severe test would be applied to the qualities of the Cas- 
talia^ which had been engaged for the passage. As the train 
stopped opposite the steamer, her bulwarks ^vere lighted up by 
red and blue lights, which cast a strong glare on the anxious 
faces of the great crowd, and as the Prince and Princess stepped 
on board the steamer there was an outburst of cheering, renew- 
ed again and again with genuine enthusiasm. The Trinity House 
tender and other vessels in harbor lighted up sides and rigging. 
The Mayor and Corporation of Dover repaired on board to 
present an address, which was " taken as read," and for which 
the Prince said he was "much obliged." Then, at 10.10 p. m., 
three rockets gave the signal for departure. As the Castalia 
moved from the pier there was a clamor of valedictory voices, 
which followed her far out into the night. In two hours she ar- 
rived at Calais. Here was the saddest moment of the many 
which had been casting their solemn influence over the day. The 
Princess of Wnles was not going on shore, but had resolved to 
stay on board, and return to E^ngland in the early morning. The 
train was to start at 1.50 a.m., so that there was short space left. 
The grief of that hour can now be regarded as a sorrow that has 
past, through the light of the happy meeting this year. At 2 a. m., 
October 12th, thetrain left the Calais station, and arrived at the 
terminus of the Northern Railway in Paris at 7.20 a. m. It so 
happened that the President, Marshal MacMahon, and a few 
gentlemen were there at the time, waiting for a train to take them 
to a shooting party. The Prince was welcomed by the Marshal 
and his suite with great cordiality and respect. He was received 
by Lord Lyons, Vho was in attendance with the members of the 
British Embassy. Entering his lordship's carriage the Prince 



XXVI INTRODUCTION. 

drove to the Hotel Bristol, where he received numerous visitors ; 
but it was officially understood that his Royal Highness wished 
to be incognito in Paris. He dined at the British Embassy that 
evening. Next day, October 13 th, the Prince visited Marshal 
MacMahon, and lunched with him at the Elysee. He subsequently 
received a return visit from the Marshal. At 8.40 p. m. his Royal 
Highness and suite left by the ordinary train for Turin, which 
they reached at 7 P. m. next evening, 14th October. Resting at 
Turin for the night, the Prince continued his journey at 9.40 a. m. 
next morning, reached Bologna at 5 p.m., October 15th, and after 
a halt of an hour and a quarter, went on in the ordinary train, 
which was provided with Royal saloon carriages, to Ancona, 
where he got out for a few minutes to receive the expression of 
the good-wishes of a small gathering of English people who had 
been waiting on the platform to bid him " God speed ! " Although 
the Prince was incognito, he could not escape official recognition, 
and he had been the unwilling object of every kind of attention 
throughout his journey ; and so it was that as the special train 
flew along through the night to Brindisi, the travellers, whenever 
they woke up and looked out, were aware of the presentment 
of prefects and sub-prefects in black coats and while cravats, 
of officers, guards of honor, crowds of people, and blazing lights 
on the station platforms. 

In order to facilitate the overland journey through France 
and Italy of so large a party with great quantities of baggage 
and many personal attendants, Lord Alfred Paget, Lord Caring- 
ton, Sir Bartle Frere, Colonel Owen Williams, Major-General 
Probyn, the Rev. Canon Duckworth, Mr. Albert Grey, the wri- 
ter of this record, and a detachment of the Royal servants, pre- 
ceded his Royal Highness, arid left London, some on Saturday 
evening, October 9th, and others on the day following, for Paris, 
where they remained till Tuesday, October 13th, when they start- 
ed for Brindisi, which they reached on the i6th of October. The 
14th of October was passed in Bologna, but the day's repose, such 
as it was — for there was very much seeing of sights to be done — 
had its small grief to follow. It was necessary to arrive a clear 



INTRODUCTION. XXVU 

twelve hours before the Prince ; and at 1.30 a.m., October 15th, the 
whole of the first division, instead of being fast asleep, were under 
arms in the breakfast-room of the hotel, waiting till Groot, the ex- 
cellent courier " in charge," had vanquished the difficulties con- 
nected with sleepy waiters, porters, bills, and the transport depart- 
ment, and gave the word that we had only to descend to the car- 
riages which were waiting to take us to the train. There was an ex- 
cellent saloon-carriage and a sufficient number of coupes ready, 
and at 3 a. m. we glided out of the Bologna station into a storm 
of rain and wind which lasted for several hours, and made some 
among us turn an uneasy eye on the grey, leaden-looking Adriatic 
with its fringe of surf, which came in view in the course of the day. 
Ancona and Foggia furnished a few minutes' halt, food, and news 
of the Royal progress. We reached Brindisi after a run of 
twenty hours from Bologna, and at 11 p.m. the train drew up 
alongside the platform close to the jetty, where there was a body 
of blue-jackets and Marines from the Serapis, to take charge of 
the baggage and to keep the Italian porters in order. There were 
also some friends waiting to greet the travellers. The rain had 
ceased and the wind had abated. The stars shone through the 
cloud-rifts, and, looking seawards, there was a great glory on the 
waters, for a few yards out from the pier lay the Serapis with her 
long line of ports lighted up, her white sides and golden scroll- 
work gleaming brightly in the glare of the gas-lamps on shore, 
and of the lanterns displayed at the companions and over the 
sides to show the way. Her boats were alongside the pier ; and 
leaving Groot and his auxiliaries to contend with the piles of 
luggage which were shot out on the platform, we embarked, and 
in a few seconds more were standing in the blaze of lamps in the 
saloon, where sheen of snowy damask, and glitter of silver and 
glass on the long table, gave note of welcome supper. Captain 
Glyn received the members of the suite, and the officers did their 
best, late as it was, to induct them in their cabins, and make 
them at home ; and we found Mr. Hall already installed on board 
as he had preferred taking a passage from Portsmouth to the 
overland journey. 




CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 



DEPARTURE FROM BRINDISI. 



Page. 



Preparations on board the Serapis — Brindisi — Reception of the Prince — 
Departure — Life on board — " Cleaning-up " — Muscular Christians — 
First Sunday on board — Cape Malea — Reminiscences — the Hermit — 
Last " look round " — The Piraeus — Modern Greek — The Palace at 
Athens — Tattoi" — Constitutional Troubles — Departure from Athens — 
Farewell at Sea 9 

CHAPTER IL 

FROM THE PIR^US TO GRAND CAIRO. 

Theatre Royal, Serapis — Sports and Pastimes— the Saloon — Port Said — 
The Suez Canal — Ismailia — The Palace of Gezireh — The Khedive — 
Investiture of Prince Tewfik — The Pyramids — " Why go to India? " — 
Departure from Cairo — Farewell to Suez 44 

CHAPTER IIL 



SUEZ TO ADEN, AND ADEN TO BOMBAY. 

Sinai — The Red Sea — A visit Below — Bed and Board — Aden — Landing of 
the Prince — Arab Sultans — The Aden Address — Turks in Arabia — 
The first Levee — Sultan of Lahej's Petition — The " Hanging-tanks " 
— Exiles in Aden — Subsidized Chiefs — Something wrong Below — 
Programme for Southern India modified — Guy Fawkes at Sea — A 
Sundays Routine — Approaching Bombay — Anticipations 71 



XXX CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 

BOMBAY. 

Page 

First Sight of India — Bombay Harbor — The Viceroy and the Governor 
of Bombay — The Landing — The Prince and the Chiefs — The Bombay 
Address and Reply of the Prince — The Procession — Bombay Streets 
— ^The burra khana — First Morning in India — First Reception — 
" Private Visits " — Maharajas of Kolhapoor and Mysore — Maharana 
of Oodeypoor — Rao of Cutch — The Gaekwar of Baroda — Sir Madhava 
. Rao — Sir Salar Jung — Rajpoots and others — Rewa Kanta Chiefs — 
The Hubshee — Birthday Rejoicings — Unpleasant News — The Tha- 
koors — The Levee — Return Visits — Byculla Club Ball — Bombay Jug- 
glers — Box wallahs — Caves of Elephanta — The Banquet 104 

CHAPTER V. 

Visit to Baroda — Battle of Kirkee — Poonah Address — Gunnesh Khind — 
Rumors of War — Sivajee — The First Review — Going Somewhere 
— Ball at Parell — Departure for Baroda — The Reception — State Ele- 
phants — Residency at Baroda — Baroda Highlanders — The Gaekwar's 
Court — Scenes in the Arena — Sensible Rhinoceros — Zoological Col- 
lection — Shikar Party — Cheetahs — Deer-Stalking — Native Officers — 
Palace of the Gaekwar — The Queen and the Gaekwar — Quail Shoot- 
ing — Visit to the City — Return to Bombay — Uncertain where to go 
— Visitors to Hyderabad — A Hindoo Wedding — Departure from 
Bombay 156 

CHAPTER VI. 

Visit to Goa — A Portuguese Settlement — New Goa — Old Goa — Mancheels 
— The Cathedral — The Bom Jesus — A Fishing Excursion — Coast 
Scenery — Beypoor — Cholera prevalent in the Shooting District — 
The "Moplahs" — A Remembrance of Tippoo — Otter Hunt — Qui- 
lon — The Tabarettes 203 

CHAPTER VII. 

COLOMBO, KANDY, CEYLON, TO TUTICORIN. 

Colombo in Sight — Taprobane — Birthday of the Princess — The Landing 
at Ceylon — Departure for Kandy — Railroad Scenery — Kandy — 
Blood-suckers — The Pera-hara — The Botanical Gardens of Ceylon 
— " Lightly tread ! "—The Sacred Tooth— The double Imoosture— 



CONTENTS. XXXi 

Page. 
Buddhist Priests— Along the Road— A curious " Bag " — Leech-gait- 
ers — The Stockade — Don Tuskerando — " Dead, sure enough ! " — 
Agri-Horticultural Exhibition— The Colombo Ball— Tamil Coffee 
Pickers — The Evil One in Ceylon. 221 

CHAPTER VIH. 

TUTICORIN — MADRAS. 

Tuticorin — Tamil Land— Tinnevelly Christians — Madura — The Cholera 
again — Trimul Naik— The Ranee of Shivagunga — Seringham — Tri- 
chinopoly — Madras — The Duke of Buckingham's Reception — The 
Golden Umbrella=— The Rajas — Prince of Arcot — Races — Illumina- 
tion of the Surf — Native Entertainment — Departure 263 

CHAPTER IX. 

CALCUTTA. 

From Madras to Calcutta — The ''James and Mary" Shoals — The 
Hooghly — Landing at Calcutta — Government House — Private Visits 
— Ceremonies — Christmas Day — Chandernagore — Reception of 
Chiefs at Chandal — Return Visits — Tent-pegging — The Star of India 
—The Procession of the Order— The Ceremony— The "Awful" 
Benefit Night — The Zenana 309 

CHAPTER X. 

Bankipoor — The Famine Officers — A great Satrap — Patna — Benares — A 
grand Camp— The last of the Tartars — Visit to the Raja of Viziana- 
gram — Ramnagar — Fyzabad — The *' Martiniere " — Monument to the 
Faithful among the Faithless — Native Entertainment in the Kaiser- 
bagh — Broken Collar-bones — Native Lucknow — Cawnpoor Well and 
Memorial , . ... 340 

CHAPTER XI. 

IMPERIAL DELHI. 

The Royal Entry— The Camp— The Review— The March-past— Criti- 
cisms — Selimghur — The Kootab — Houmayoun's Tomb — The Man- 
oeuvres — Cavalry Field-day — Lahore — The Punjaub Chiefs — Return 
Visits — Reception at Jummoo — Games and Pastimes — The " Alexan- 



XXXU CONTENTS. 

Page 
dra" Bridge at Wazirabad — Lahore — Sikhs chez eux — Umritsur — 
Agra — Procession to Camp — the Chiefs — The Taj — Excursions to 
Futtehpoor, Sikri and Sikundra— Visit to Gwalior — Scindia's Review 
— Rock of Gwalior— Return to Agra — Bhurtpoor to Jeypoor — The 
first Tiger — Amber City — Departure from Jeypoor 35 

CHAPTER XII. 

THE KUMAOUN — TERAI — NEPAL. 

The Royal Shooting Camp — Sir H. Ramsay — Nynee Tal — An unlucky 
Dose — Pleasing Incongruities — Terai Scenery — Camp personnel — A 
Day of Rest — The " King of Beasts " — Tigers and Tigerlets — " De 
Profundis " — The last Day with Ramsay — Enter Nepal — Sir Jung 
Bahadoor — Nepalese Civilities — An Elephantine Procession — Fighr- 
ing-elephants — A good beginning — An abstruse Joke — Taking to 
Roost — The terrible Proboscis — " Jung Pershaud is coming ! " — 
Bijli Pershaud enters — " Cui Lumen ademptum" — Ballet-drill — The 
Reign of Terror — Departure from Nepal ,41 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Bareilly — Allahabad — Chapter of Investiture of the Order of the Star of 
India — The Prince and the Viceroy — Jubalpoor — More Thugs — 
Visit to Holkar — The Residency at Indore — Arrival iu Bombay — 
Farewell to India 



as: 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Homeward Bound — St. Patrick's Day — A Stern Chase — Aden once more 
— Perils by Night — Visits on Board — Suez — Lord Lytton — Cairo — 
The Khedive — The Grand Duke Alexis — The " Svetlana " — Alexan- 
dria—A Rat-Trap— Malta— Gibraltar 464 

CHAPTER XV. 

Departure from Gibraltar — Arrival at Cadiz — Seville — Cordova — Madrid 
— Toledo — The Escurial — The Palace Tapestry — The Armory — 
The Review — Festivities — Arrival at Lisbon — Public Entry — Belem 
Castle — Royal Entertainments — Excursion to Cintra — Palace of 
Ajuda — Departure from Lisbon — Serapis Dinner to the Prince — 
Land "in Sight — " The Eitchaittress is coming " — Home at Last ! , . 482 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Paox. 
The First Step on Indian Soil— Landing at Bombay 

Frontispiece. 

Embarkation on Board the Serapis at Brindisi ... 12 

Ceylon— The Dead Elephant. • -254 

Investiture of the Star of India at Calcutta . . -334 

The Hunters Hunted ^^ 

A Levee of Pets • -504 

Smaller (Bxigrabings. 

Bows of the « Serapis " . 9 

TATTOi.— Country Residence of the King of Greece . . 32 
King and Queen of Greece leaving the "Serapis" ... 43 

Studying Relief Map ^^ 

Illumination of the Great Pyramid . . • • 65 

The Punkah ^ 

A15EN.— Somali Boy chased by a Policeman .71 

The Prince shooting Birds on Board . . . • • • '©^ 

. 104 
The Bhestie, Bombay 

The Buttee-W ALLAH ^^ 

Swamp Shooting ^ 

The Prince of Wales in Shooting Costume . . . .186 
" Hauling THE Seine" ...' ' ^ 



* C 



XXXlV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Pack. 

The Mancheel 210 

"It's nae the Tigers that fear me, it's just the Sairpents 

and the like o' they i "....... . 220 

Landing at Colombo . . . 221 

A "Crawl" in the Jungle, Ceylon. . . . . . .253 

The Veddahs Laugh 257 

Carving a God at Madura 263 

Native Christians at Tinnevelly 268 

Bargaining for Bangles 282 

A NuzzuR AT Madras 292 

Dead Game . . . . .308 

The Prince and the Begum of Bhopal . . ... . 309 

After the Audience 318 

MuNiPURi Polo player , 337 

Prince Louis hansels the Gainee-cart 340 

"A Health to the broken Collar-bone" 358 

The Review at Delhi 359 

The Sham fight at Delhi. — PERiLaus Position of some of the 

Suite 371 

The Guest of Cashmere 383 

A Close Shave while the Train waits 388 

Painting the Prince's Elephant 390 

In the Terai. — Beating for Tiger . 411 

Camp Fire in a Banyan Tope. — Nepalese Band Playing . . 433 
"Tu potes Tigres rabidos, Macallister, ducere" . . . 45a 

Martyrs to Thuggee 453 

On the Way Home 462 

Under one Flag . . 464 

The only Bull-fight the Prince saw in Spain . . . .482 

Jacko v. Jack . . . . . . . . . . • 500 

Haven and Home . . ... 506 




BOWS OF THE '* SEEAPIS 



THE PRINCE OF WALES^ TOUR. 



CHAPTER I. 



DEPARTURE FROM BRINDISI. 

Preparations on board the Serapis — Brindisi — Reception of the Prince — De- 
parture — Life on board — " Cleaning-up" — Muscular Christians — First 
Sunday on board — Cape Malea — Reminiscenses— The hermit — Last " look 
round " — The Piraeus — Modern Greek — The Palace at Athens — Tattoi — 
Constitutional troubles — Departure from Athens — Farewell at sea. 

October i6. — It was very early indeed when the preparations 
for the reception of the Prince commenced on board the Serapis 
this morning. The Royal special train was expected to arrive at 
8.30 A.M. Several hours before that time, strenuous efforts to clear 
away the mass of personal baggace outside the cabins on the 
main-deck disturbed the sleepers, who, after the fatii^-iies of the 
journey of the previous day, would gladly have remained at rest 



lO THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

a little longer ; but the inexorable first lieutenant and officers 
of the watch directing their forces of sailors, m iri ics, and China- 
men to make a passage between the piles of portmanteaus from 
the gangway to the foot of the saloon-companion, speedily dissi- 
pated any dreams of indulgence in such bodily infirmity. As to 
the minor inconveniences of " clearing away " boxes and " lum- 
ber " outside cabins on these occasions, they best can paint them 
who have felt them most. There were stowaway corners and 
crypts under the staircase, and shelves fixed across the main- 
deck, concealed by green curtains for portmanteaus ; but this did 
not suffice for all, especially as the shelves were appropriated by 
a few who had many boxes. The mode of access to the saloon 
and to the State apartments was rather a weak part of the con- 
stitution of the ship, but it was perhaps unavoidable. The com- 
panion-ladder was on the port side of the main-deck, and visitors 
were obliged to p ass by the sleeping-cabins to the staircase which 
led to the saloon on the upper-deck. 

There was little time before the arrival of the Royal train to 
make ourselves familiar with the ship which was to be our home 
for so many days and nights, but her great length of deck, the 
beautiful order and exquisite cleanliness of everything visible 
aloft and below, produced a favorable impression at the first glance. 
The cabins varied in size and in fittings ; some had two ports 
others one, but all were well-appointed. They were beautifully 
fresh and neat, not overdone with ornament or gilding, but there 
was room for such decoration as the occupants might deem most 
appropriate. In each cabin there was a large and comfortable- 
looking sofa which was converted into a bedstead at night, but 
the fate of these was speedily sealed, as shall be related here- 
after. A writing-table with drawers, a chest of drawers and 
dressing-table, a washing-stand, a bath, shelves and nettings for 
books, clothes, boots and looking-glasses— what more was needed ? 
There was ample light when the outer ports were not closed. It 
must be confessed that the stories of her behavior in the run 
from Portsmouth outward, and the reputation she had acquired of 
a " tremendous roller," caused some misgivings among the weaker 



BRINDISI. 1 1 

vessels, and many secret and confidential inquiries were addressed 
by them as soon as they got on board to the officers and passengers 
respecting the conduct of the Serapis in the voyage from Malta 
to Brindisi, the results of which were very satisfactory and com- 
forting. The suite received invitations from Captain Glyn 
and the officers to the ward-room as honorary members of the 
mess. 

There is an Old-world look about Brindisi. When the line 
of mail steamers to the east galvanized the port into a fitful ac- 
tivity for a few hours once a week, there were great expectations 
raised of a glorious future, and it was predicted that the town 
would become the centre of a considerable commerce. Land 
was largely bought on speculation, the harbor was dredged out 
and improved, a new breakwater was completed, houses were 
built on a large scale, and all seemed going on well, when, 
Venice was "discovered," and the old Queen of the Adriatic 
enticed the roving affections of commerce from her disconsolate 
rival. One advantage was gained by the temporally im- 
portance of the place, which the inhabitants perhaps did not 
appreciate. The incredible filth and nastiness of the streets were 
somewhat abated, and the manners of the inhabitants improved. 
Many travellers still prefer the long, tedious, and trying journey 
from Turin to Brindisi to the sea route from Venice, and there is 
nothing to be said against their fancy if they disregard the dust 
in summer and the cold in winter, the evil baiting-places on 
the way, and the monotony of the rail with its borderings of olive 
plantations and tideless sea, where the excesses of the storm 
are denoted by lines of stagnating sea-weed. Now Brindisi was 
very gay. ' Landwards floated in the strong southerly breeze 
over the houses the flags of many Powers, for there are many 
Consular personages in the town. The Civic Band was playing 
near the railway station, the custom-house guards in full uniform 
were drawn up on the quay to which the Serapis was moored, 
and there was close to her a crowd of fully a hundred persons 
apparently listening to a lecture on marine architecture from 
an ancient mariner who had surely never beheld such a gallant 



12 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

craft before. Seaward, near the interesting old fort in the middle 
of the harbor lay the Italian ironclads Castel-Fidardo and the 
Reina Maria Fia, which had come round from Spezzia in a gale 
of wind, H.M.S. Hercules, H.M.S. Pallas, the Royal yacht 
Osborne, and a few steamers and sailing-vessels — British, Greek, 
and Italian — all dressed in their best, to do honor to the 
Prince of Wales, with bunting streaming out flat as sheets of 
colored glass in the stiff souther, which sent the surf flying over 
the breakwater, and brought up with it from time to time drench- 
ing showers. The members of the suite appeared in uniform for 
the first time ; the ships' officers were what is nautically called 
" in full fig ; " and as the drum summoned the crew to quarters, it 
was a pleasure to look down from the quarter-deck on the clean, 
smart men-of-warsmen ranged below in their spick-and-span new 
white raiment ready to man yards at a word. It was nearly 
9.30 A.M. when the Royal train was signalled, in less than half 
an hour afterwards the Prince of Wales descended from his 
carriage at the Railway Station. The Prefetto and sotto-Pre- 
fetto, and the authorities of the district, on the platform, received 
his Royal Highness, who acknowledged their salutations, shook 
hands with Count Maffei and one or two of his personal ac- 
quaintances, and walked to the steps where his barge was await- 
ing him. With the Prince came the Duke of Sutherland, the 
Earl of Aylesford, Lord Suffield, Lord C. Beresford, Lieut.-Col- 
onel Ellis, Mr. F. Knollys, Major Stanley Clarke, Sir A. Paget, 
and the members of the British Legation who could be spared 
from Rome, the Italian Minister of Marine, Vice-Admiral di 
San Bon, and his naval aide-de-camp, etc. The Civic Band played 
" God save the Queen " and the Italian National Air ; the Royal 
Standard (of the Prince of Wales) was run up in the barge the 
moment he was on board ; the British and Italian men-of-war 
manned yards, and running up the Royal Standard, fired a Royal 
salute. The fine effect of the sudden outburst was greatly 
increased by the drifting smoke, which was whirled away rapidly 
by the breeze to leeward, instead of hanging round the ships and 
obscuring hull and rigging. In a couple of minutes more the 



ROYAL HONORS. 1 3 

Prince of Wales was ascending the ladder to the port gangway 
of the Serapis, where he was received by Captain Glyn and 
the officers of the ship. On every occasion of his Royal High- 
ness's arrival or departure in public the same ceremony was 
observed on board. The Royal Marines and the detachment of 
R.M.A. were drawn up on the main-deck to the right of the lar- 
board gangway, the Band of the Royal Marines on their left, the 
officers standing in a line from the gangway to the entrance to 
the main-deck cabins. The instant the Prince put his foot on 
board or quitted the ship, his Standard was run up or hauled 
down, yards were manned ; the Band played " God save the 
Queen," officers and guards of honor saluted with the usual hon- 
ors. The guard of honor mounted on the main-deck to receive 
personages entitled to salutes could not " present " arms, as the 
bayonets would have come in contact with the deck overhead, 
but Major Snow got over the difficulty by inventing a new exer- 
cise and maniement des armes, which answered quite as well as 
the old. 

The arrangements on board were found to be very satisfactory. 
The Italian Minister of Marine was loud in his approbation of 
the great size and airiness of the ship, and of the perfect order 
on board. Breakfast was served soon after the Prince's arrival, 
and then, after a short promenade on deck and final message, 
came " the word that must be spoken." At 11.15 a. m. the Brit- 
ish and Italian Ministers took leave, with many expressions of 
their respectful interest in the expedition, and good wishes for 
the safety and happy return of the Prince. The first thud of the 
screw caused the great frame of the ship to quiver from stem to 
stern, and the Serapis moved slowly seaward in the wake of the 
Osborne^ which was followed by the Hercules and Pallas. The 
moment of her departure was telegraphed to Athens, where the 
Prince was expected on Monday. Again the iron throats of the 
cannon uttered a deal of sulphurous breath and the crews of the 
men-of-war shouted. The Prince went forward to the bridge, 
where there is a kind of room or wooden box with windows at 
three sides, a table for charts, chairs, telescopes, and glasses. 



14 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

The steering-wheels are underneath, and there is a good look-out 
fore and aft over the decks from the platform, which is nigh six- 
ty feet above the sea. In ten minutes we saw the Osdornemake 
a graceful curtsey to an incoming wave, the first of the numerous 
family outside the reef which, leaping on each other's backs in 
their anxiety to welcome it, were awaiting the little squadron ; 
but when it came to her turn, the lofty Serapis scarcely deigned 
to notice their salutations, and only gave a slight nod of her head 
as if to show she was not regardless of all the laws of maritime 
propriety. But notwithstanding that dignified nonchalance the 
company which sat down to dinner did not include all those who 
came on board the ship, and there was in several cabins hidden 
but audible suifering. This was the first time of wearing the 
Serapis dress — a blue jacket with silk facings and household but- 
tons, black trousers and black necktie — which was pronounced 
to be a successful substitute for the mess dress and the civilian 
black coat of evening life. The Prince went round the decks be- 
fore dinner and inspected " the Farm," — the various animals he 
was bringing as presents to the King of Greece, and his horses 
from the Sandringham stables, but he did not appear at table. 
However, he came out of his room after dinner, and in the even- 
ing sat in the charming little " fumoir " on the quarter-deck, to 
which access is gained from the saloon below by a winding stair- 
case. It is windowed with plate glass, panelled in white and 
gold, and provided with sofas. There are doors at each angle, 
a small book-case, barometer, clock, &c. ; on the panels are fine 
photographs of the two young princes in sailors' costume, and a 
frame of exquisite photographs of the Princess of Wales and the 
Royal children. The Band stationed on the upper-deck played 
from dinner-time till past 9 o'clock, and proved to be very steady 
on its legs in the sea-way, and of excellent quality. The speed 
of the vessel was regulated methodically by Admiralty Orders, 
as if the winds and seas were factors of small consequence. An 
average rate of 264 knots in the 24 hours, or 11 knots an hour, 
was the basis on which the calculations of the programme de- 
pended, and about 48 revolutions per minute of the Serapis screw 



LIFE ON BOARD. 1 5 

corresponded with the required mileage. There was a fair but 
strong wind, which eased the screw and enabled the ship to set a 
good spread of canvas, but there was too much wind and sea to- 
wards nightfall, as she was off the coast of Cephalonia, and sail 
was reduced. The lights are extinguished in the cabins at 1 1 p.m., 
but those in the saloon are left burning till the Prince retires for 
the night. There are, however, great lanterns along the main-deck, 
which cast their rays upon the darkness where the marine on duty 
passes up and down outside the entrance to the cabins, and reveal 
" Bobeche," the Prince's French poodle, scampering about in 
search of " Flossy," another canine favorite, or of some other less 
substantial playmate. He seems under the impression that there 
must be a dog or two hidden on board, and has already made 
search all up and down the decks, investigating the secrets of 
his water prison-house with so much success that he was quite 
lost for about an hour, and baffled all attempts to discover him, 
so that it was feared he had gone overboard. However, 
Bobeche had not the least idea of doing anything so foolish. 

October 17. — The wind and sea abated during the night and 
the Serapis slid^^^very quietly through the placid waters; but *^ 
soon after dawn a gentle breeze sprung up nearly right astern, 
and all square canvas was set — Osborne in her station, but no 
sign of Hercules or Pallas. The first sound which pierces the 
dull hubbub of the throbbing engines and of the cleaving of the 
waters outside is the bugle-call which sets all the servants in mo- 
tion — or ought to do so — on the main-deck. Then comes the 
tumult of " cleaning-up " outside the cabins and on the decks, 
but we are spared the horrible marine infliction of " holystoning." 
The planking is covered with oil-cloth, which is swabbed and 
washed. The cleaning up is done by certain loose-limbed sinewy 
Chinamen — quiet, orderly fellows, with a full allowance of tail, 
who do not appear to recognize " Tom Fat " as a man and a 
brother, though his tail is of irreproachable length. Perhaps his 
Christianity has cut him off from his brethren. Presently elec- 
tric bells begin to tinkle, and various figures, draped after the 
antique, appear outside the cabins, and hold converse on the 



1 6 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

main-deck whilst they await their turns for the bath, exchanging 
ideas about the weather, past, present, and to come, and the sen- 
sations which the sea has caused or which it yet menaces. The 
athletically disposed take to various strengthening exercises. Dr. 
Fayrer^ armed with two mugdahs or Indian clubs, whirls them 
round his head with an air of entire resignation and devotion, 
diligently improving his already very respectable biceps, and Can- 
on Duckworth gives demonstration that he is no bad representa- 
tive of the school of muscular Christians. Sir Bartle Frere is 
one of the very early risers, and begins his work before break- 
fast hour ; but no matter how busy he may be, he never minds 
any interruption, and is always ready to give information, of 
which he has such ample stores in most matters, with the greatest 
cheerfulness. 

A fair muster at breakfast, Lord Alfred Paget turning up at 
8 A.M. with sailorly briskness, and most of the others being an 
hour later. At 1 1 a.m. the Church pendant was hoisted^ and the 
Rev. Canon Duckworth read Divine service in the saloon before 
the Prince, suite, and domestics. Land was seen on the port bow 
at 1.45 P.M. ; and soon after the little squadron passed Navarino 
Bay. An Italian brig saluted the Royal Standard, dipping her 
flag three times, and Captain Glyn gave orders that the Serapis 
should dip also, which was much better than taking no notice of 
the civility, although it was not strictly in accordance with the 
etiquette to do so under the circumstances. The steamer Graphic 
of Hull, actuated, no doubt, by excessive loyalty and curiosity, 
but troublesome for all that, as if the sea were not wide enough 
for all, would get in our way. There have been recent painful 
incidents which render these demonstrations undesirable. As 
the time at which the Prince was expected at Athens was settled 
" to the minute," it was necessary to reduce the speed of the ship 
to eight knots, in order that we should not arrive too soon. At 
4 P.M. Mount Taygetus was visible. The approach of the Prince 
was telegraphed to the telegraph station near Matapan by the 
code signals. It would not be at all a novel remark to offer that 
it would have been a great advantage to the democracy of Athens 



SUNDAY AT SEA 1/ 

if they could have learnt exactly when the Spartan galleys. might 
have been expected off ^gina. The sea belied its traditions 
this our first Sunday on board, for it became almost dead calm as 
soon as we were off Cerigo, and a bright moonlight rested on the 
crestless swell which still agitated the sea. There was a glorious 
sunset (beautiful exceedingly), a great fire on the western horizon, 
which cast a purple glow over the sea, and flung a broad hemi- 
sphere of saffron, gold, and green into the sky. All the com- 
pany turned up on deck, and watched the radiance in silence. 

All the late absentees appeared at dinner to-day, and in ac- 
cordance with the custom which was established on the first day 
of the Prince's appearance on board, and which was never depart- 
ed from during his voyage, a certain number of the ship's officers 
were invited to the Roy^l table, invitations being given to all the 
officers in turn. The dressing bugle sounded at 7 p.m., and at 
7.30 P.M. the company assembled in the large saloon astern, in the 
fore part of which the table was laid. The Prince came out of 
his room a few moments earlier, and went round to say a few 
words and shake hands with the officers ; the signal for dinner was 
given by the Band playing " The Roast Beef of Old England." 
His Royal Highness led the way and took his place at the for- 
ward end of the table. Lord Suffield sat at the other end aft, 
and the suite and guests settled down pretty much as they pleas- 
ed, till use established a settled order in the intermediate seats. 
Towards the close of dinner, the Prince rising said, " Her Majesty 
the Queen," and the company rose also and remained standing 
whilst the Band played the usual bars of the National Anthem. 
Then after dessert the Prince left the saloon and went up to the 
divan on the quarter-deck, where coffee was served, and sat for 
an hour or two listening to the Band or engaged in conversa- 
tion. 

After dinner the band varied the musical entertainment in 
the programme by singing a chorus from Stabat Mater very 
finely. We were near Cape Malea at the moment, and I thought 
of the time twenty- one years ago when the Rifle Brigade — the 
advance guard of the British expedition to the Crimea — on 



1 8 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

board the Golden Fleece^ woke up the echoes of the same head- 
lands with the strains of their jubilant song — 

"Soldiers! merrily march away ! 
Soldier's glory lives in story, 
His laurels are green when his hair is grey, 
And it's oh ! for the life of a soldier ! " 

How many of the joyous Riflemen are alive now ? There are 
Norcott, Elrington, Colville, Newdegate, Egerton, and some two 
or three more perhaps. Sir Bartle Frere told me that thirteen 
years before the time of which I speak he passed this very Cape 
Malea in a Greek brig, on his way to Alexandria to make essay 
of the newly-found "overland route," of the which — as far as 
water was concerned — he had, ere he arrived at Bombay, a 
very long and varied experience in the Red Sea and the Persian 
Gulf. It is said that the hermit who lived in a cave in the face 
of the cliff in those days, and who was held in reverence by 
superstitious mariners, is still abiding there. It is probably a 
hereditary office — " VHermite est mort ! Vive V Hermite T^ 

Before turning in, those with nautical tastes generally go 
forward to the bridge and have a little weather talk. The 
Prince rarely if ever retired for the night without taking this 
" look round," and having a few minutes' conversation with the 
officers on duty. 

October 18. — " We shall be in the Piraeus in a couple of 
hours, they tell me ! " First news this morning. The speed of 
the ship was reduced, as the Prince's arrival had been fixed for 
9.30 A.M. Already Cape Colonna could be discerned, and 
the ruins of the Temple of Minerva, crowning "the ^marble 
steep," were shining in all the glory of their untarnished mar- 
ble in the morning sun. On our port side lay the rugged shores 
of ancient Calaurea, where stood the Temple of Neptune, in 
which Demosthenes, almost within sight of the beloved city which 
his eloquence could not save from the proud foot of the con- 
queror, died by his own hand. The island now called Poros, 
from a small peninsula near it, is the site of a naval arsenal. 



REMINISCENCES. I9 

Ahead, on the port bow, was ^gina, with the bulk of Mount St. 
Elias towering aloft, just flecked by a few snowy cloudlets. 
Presently the coast of the Gulf seemed to come out to meet us. 
Salamis lay on our port bow. Looking straight over the stem 
the spectators beheld, glistening in the sun, the mountain ranges 
which inclose the little plain of Attica. The pure, clear air 
renders the outlines of the landscape wonderfully distinct, but 
it is difficult, nevertheless, to believe that the figure of Minerva 
— which, with gilt helm, spear, and shield, surmounted the 
Parthenon — was visible at Sunium, a distance of forty miles and 
more, unless, perhaps, when the sun was reflected from the 
polished surface. Beneath the high chain which sweeps round 
from the range of Parnes, fencing out rude Boeotia, there 
stretches the broken hill-land to the west, north, and east of 
the city. " There is the Acropolis ! " " You can see the Pantheon 
quite plainly now ! " To the left of the Temple we could dis- 
cern Mount Anchesmus, and beyond the sheer downfall of 
Pentelicus, clad in white marble, and, nearer, Lycabettus ; and 
on the starboard bow towered Hymettus. The fair panorama 
unfolded itself rapidly. The white houses of the city cowering 
at the base of the Acropolis, the domes of Greek churches, 
and the piles of recent public edifices became more definite ; 
and the confused, cloud-like appearance on the verge of the sea 
which the Piraeus first presented to the sight, was resolvable 
into a mass of houses, in front of which was a pulk of ships' 
masts close together, with bright coruscations of colors playing 
over them as the innumerable flags fluttered in the breeze. 

"Adsunt Athenae, unde Humanitas, Doctrina, Religio, Fruges, Jura, 
Leges, orte atque in omnes terras distributas putantur, de quorum posses- 
sione, propter pulchritudinem, etiam inter Deos certamen fuisse proditum 

est." 

How different is the present reputation of the " Ancient of 
Days ! '•' Neither humanity, religion, learning, nor laws emanate 
from her bosom, and the old world only gives back with 
niggard hands some ^of the blessings which she owes to her 



20 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

benefactress, and distils out of the great reservoir of her wealth 
a few drops to refresh the arid plains in which were nursed all 
that can decorate life and bless mankind with knowledge. They 
who were charged with the care of the Serapis just now, however, 
had not much time to think of anything else except the difficulty 
of guiding such a vast ship through the narrow entrance to the 
anchorage of the Piraeus, which is far more suited to an ancient 
trireme than to a modern troop-ship. In the days of sailings 
vejssels it could not have been easy to have entered, unless with '^^ 
fair winds, and it is related that when Captain Clarke took in 
the Braakelm. 1812, not without doing her a good deal of dam- 
age, the people flocked down in thousands to gaze on such an 
unwonted apparition. 

Steam enables sailors to tackle such difficulties as are pre- 
sented by the narrowness of the Piraeus with confidence, though 
not without care, and now the water seemed blocked up with the 
mass of shipping ; but, as we glided out of the Pass, we could 
see there was a kind of avenue between the British men-of-war 
and those of other nations, and the ships, yachts, and small craft 
which crowded the ancient port, left for the vessels to keep in. 
It was a very pretty sight ; every ship dressed in colors, the 
crews of the men-of-war in white in the yards ; marines drawn 
up with presented arms; officers in groups on the quarter- 
decks ; boats with men and women waving hats and handker- 
chiefs flying in and out amid the lanes of vessels. The Prince, 
who was dressed in full uniform to receive the King, surveyed 
the scene which looked so bright in the bright sunshine. His 
compagnons de voyage^ Murray in hand, were ogling the land- 
scape through their glasses, or recalling ancient memories. 
The guns thundered, bells rung on shore, cheers rose from the 
waters and floated away from the throats of the sailors manning 
the yards and rigging of the craft which lay so close and packed 
in the little harbor, that there was not much room for the 
Serapis to scrape through to her anchorage. The Royal Greek 
yacht Amphitrite, with the Standards of Great Britain and of 
the Hellenic Kingdom flving from main and fore, and the 



ACCIDENTS. 21 

Russian sloop lay close at hand on the port bow, and the 
American corvette, Juanita^ on the starboard quarter. The pilot 
thought the ship was in the right place off the pillars. " Let 
go the starboard anchor ! " Over went S.B. The usual rumble 
and grating, like a charge of fifty steam rollers over a rough 
pavement, followed for an instant — and for an instant only — the 
chain cable had snapped at the fourth shackle, and the star- 
board anchor, having severed its connection with the ship, was 
lying at the bottom on its own account. " Let go the port anchor ! " 
A quick, hot command this time. Over went B.B. Again the 
rattle of the chain through the hawse-hole was heard for an instant 
— and for an instant only — the cable had parted — the port anchor 
was rejoicing in its liberty alongside its fellow. Except the 
sailors, no one knew what had occurred ; but as the Serapis 
fetched leeway under the influence of the stiff breeze, Captain 
Glyn, who had been till this moment looking somewhat uneasy 
about the berthing of his ship, passed aft with a fine calm on his 
brow, to look out astern and murmured gently, " We've lost both 
anchors ! " on the quarter-deck. The steam had been blown off 
from our boilers, and there seemed imminent risk of a catastrophe. 
Either the Serapis would crush up the whole flotilla of wooden 
vessels like so many egg-shells, and run aground, or she would be 
impaled on the spur of our own iron-clads. Every one ran to 
the side, looked over, and then glanced astern, where the shining 
iron stems of the Hercules and Swiftsure, as they rose and fell 
gently in the swell, flashed a kind of signal to beware of contact. 
Their bows would have gone through the thin iron of the 
Serapis ''2iS a knife cuts butter." Gathering way rapidly, the 
Serapis came down on the astonished Greeks on board the yacht ; 
but the King of the Hellenes, who is a thorough sailor, saw 
what was the matter at once, and sent the crew forward to fend 
off the coming mountain. In a second more there was a loud 
crash and snap as the Serapis avenged the damage done by 
the yacht's bowsprit to one of her boats by the abrupt removal 
of that spar, and then continued her career astern. There was 
speedily a scene of much activity all around us. Off came the 



22 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Russian's boat with the end of a warp, and landed it cleverly on 
boird the Osborne which had her steam up, and was manoeuver- 
ing to help her erratic consort. There was not the smallest 
confusion, but there was a good deal of excitement on board. In 
a very short time the warp was made fast on board the Serapis^ 
her way was checked just in time to avoid the danger of fouling, 
and, forging ahead again, she was brought up to her old ground, 
and then let go both sheet anchors, which held her fast at last. 
As soon as she. was anchored (10.30 a.m.). King George came 
off under a Royal salute from all the shipping, yards manned, 
&c., and was received at the side by the Prince, who conduct- 
ed him to the saloon, where the members of the suite were pre- 
sented to His Majesty. Sir J. Drummond, Admiral Boutakoff, 
and many Russian, American, Austrian, and Turkish officers 
hastened on board to pay their respects to the Prince. These 
were followed by officers in uniform — naval, military, consular, 
and diplomatic^so that the decks of the Serapis presented a 
very animated appearance, in keeping with the scene outside, 
where the waters were crowded with boats and sailing cra.ft, filled 
wdth people turned out in their best. At noon the members 
of the suite were told oif to the boats alongside, to lead the way 
to the landing-place of the Piraeus, about a quarter of a mile away. 
On the platform there was a deputation, and probably an address, 
but the first comers had to drive off to the terminus before the 
Royal party landed, and did not witness the reception. They 
passed to the carriages from the steps through the guard of honor 
and troops lining the sides to keep off the crowds of curious who 
pressed upon them — a medley of races in great variety of cos- 
tume, among whom there were not many women. These mostly 
looked out of the windows of the rather poor houses, much given 
to entertainment of sailors, and suggesting the idea of a Greek 
Wapping, which line the way here. There was abundance of 
green wreaths, bunches of flowers and banners along the streets 
to the Railway Station, which was prettily decorated— scarlet 
cloth laid down on the platform — banners, &c. — a gathering of 
well-dressed ladies, the various ministers and ex-ministers, the 



RECEPTION OF THE PRINCE. 23 

diplomatic body, the clergy of the Greek Church and otliers, the 
civil magistrates, the Town Council (to di^fiorudv Iufj.i3ouAcov 
'J(97yvaJv), theNomarchs of Attica and Boeotia, the Demarchs of 
the Piraeus and of Athens, the 'T7toupyu\ &c. — to receive the 
Royal party, whose arrival was announced by another salute of 
cannon and by loud cheering. 

The Royal train was in readiness, the engine puffing impa- 
tiently to get off, and after some delay, connected with the baggage, 
the King and Prince, greeted by the peculiar sort of cry which 
is the Greek substitute for a cheer, left the station. There was 
some curiosity manifested by the people in the suburb of the 
Piraeus, for they mounted on the walls to look at the train ; but 
the peasants, men and women, at work in the olive-groves and 
in the fields only paused for a while, some doffing their hats, and 
then resumed their labors. There were Royal carriages, an 
escort of cavalry, guard of honor, band, &c., in attendance at 
the Observatory Station, in the outskirts of Athens, where the 
King and the Prince alighted, and a greater gathering to wel- 
come them than there was at Piraeus. 

There a state procession was formed ; all who took part 
in it were in full uniform. The carriages, escorted by the C/ie- 
vaux Legers, set out at a slow pace, in order to give the people 
an opportunity of seeing the guest of their King. It was a hot 
and dusty drive from the station to the palace, but the great 
crowds which lined the streets {odbq AloXou^ 6ddg 'Ep/j-ou, &:c.), 
and filled the windows and balconies along the route to bid the 
Prince welcome, had endured the fierce rays of the sun and 
dust of the roads some hours before he appeared. In the 
present day there are few distinctive marks about the dress of 
the better-off classes in European cities, and the ladies and 
gentlemen who looked with so much interest on the Royal 
visitor and his suite were pretty much like the inhabitants of 
any other large town. There was a good deal of an esprit 
7noqueiir about the crowd, and people in good coats and hats 
pointed at the novel uniforms with more freedom than is usual 
in Western cities. There were sprinklings of Greek costumes 



24 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

to be seen here and there among the poorer sort, and a large 
proportion of those " indescribables," with unwashed faces, 
and felt hats of strange shapes furnished by all the national- 
ities of the world, who may be seen in Levantine towns. And 
as of the people so of the dwellings. The new streets are formed 
in right lines of very lofty buildings of the Haussmann type. 
There are no " old houses." The Acropolis looks down proudly 
on what is, take it all in all, the newest city out of the United 
States. In the rear of the principal streets, which are nearly 
as wide as those of Munich or of modern Paris, are lanes of 
humble cottages, of modern construction and of no particular 
type, " the huts where poor men lie." But with this newness 
of look there was one thing ever before our eyes during the 
long drive to the Palace which prevented our forgetting where we 
were — the characters and the names on the walls and the shop 
fronts which exercised — well, let us say — the ingenuity or mem- 
ory of the suite, and afforded them a distraction. There were 
many flags flying in the street. The majority were Greek, next 
Russian, next Italian, then English and French ; but the Crescent 
on the Red Field of the Turk was rare indeed. The Athenians 
did not cheer, but they talked loudly, and a buzzing sound pre- 
ceded the cortege f the ladies waved handkerchiefs from the win- 
dows ; the police, who are dressed like infantry soldiers, had not 
much difficulty in keeping line, save in front of the numerous 
cafes, which were thronged with people and emitted clouds of 
tobacco-smoke. Certainly ten men out of eleven smoked cigar- 
ettes. 

The aspect of the Basilikon is imposing. The Palace is 
well placed on an elevated site at the base of Mount Lyca- 
bettus, commanding a fine view towards Hymettus and the 
mountains on one side, and facing the modern Place, in which 
are the principal hotels. The portico, the colonnade, and much 
of the exterior are built of the pure white marble of Pentelicus, 
which towers behind it in the distance ; and much of the interior 
is decorated with or constructed of the same beautiful material. 
The vast hall is adorned with columns of marble ; the courts, by 



THE PALACE. 2$ 

which the Palace is divided, contain two of the loftiest and finest 
state saloons in Europe, which are only used for great banquets 
or. royal festivities. Great corridors run along the length and 
breadth of the Palace, which is a quadrangle of 300 feet by 280. 
On the first floor, which is at a great height from the basement, 
are suites of rooms of large dimensions — too large to be easily 
warmed in the severe cold of the Attic winter, of which one is 
reminded by the German stoves in the corners of each bed-room 
and sitting-room. The King's apartments are charmingly com- 
fortable ; the Queen's suite bears the evidence of an exquisite 
taste, and of tendencies which in an English house would be 
called "ritualistic." There is a Greek Chapel in the Palace 
for Her Majesty, and for those of her attendants and others 
who belong to the Orthodox Church ; and there is a separate 
Chapel for the King. In the public apartments and on the 
terraces there are some pictures, treated in the heroic manner, 
of the great frescoes of Cornelius. These are painted, I believe, 
by Danes or Germans, for modern Greece has not yet found 
her Apelles. From the front windows there is a wide-spreading 
view towards the city and the country, in the direction of the 
Piraeus, and a glimpse of part of the Acropolis. 

Before the entrance there was a guard of honor, with band 
and colors, a company of infantry, clad in uniform with some 
resemblance to that of the French line, except that the men 
did not indulge in garance pantaloons. On the steps the officers 
of the household of the King and Queen, and a crowd of func- 
lionaries, were assembled, many of them in the picturesque dress 
of the Court — which was adopted by King Otho to please the 
national taste — gold-embroidered jacket and vest, sash, stiff white 
fustanelle, a cap, like a fez with an elongated bag decorated 
with a long gold tassel, and embroidered gaiters. There was 
a small gathering of people in the open space between the shrub- 
bery and railings which fence off the Place from the front of the 
Palace, for in Athens, as in most cities which boast of a royal resi- 
dence, there is no restriction on the use by the public of the walks 
about the Palace. The King of the Hellenes led his guest into the 



26 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

great hall, and thence to the royal apartments. Presently those 
who accompanied the Prince were summoned to the saloon 
where the Queen was standing with her children — the Duke of 
Sparta, Prince George, the Princess Alexandra, and Prince 
Nicholas — and the ladies-in-waiting, and were presented to her 
Majesty by his Royal Highness. Her Majesty's manner is ex- 
ceedingly gracious, and for each she had a kind word, and for 
those whom she had known before a little speech, which proved 
she had a Royal memory. Nor did she forget to express her 
great regret that circumstances had prevented the Princess of 
Wales coming so far with the Prince on his way to India. Then 
came a general dispersion to the rooms, mostly of great size and 
well found, where the servants were already unpacking portman- 
teaus for a change from uniform to plain, clothes. There was a 
little difficulty in establishing communications between the 
^ Greek gentlemen-in-waiting and our own people ; even Canon 
Duckworth, whose Greek was of the freshest and best, was at 
fault when he came to *' hot water " and the like. The High- 
landers in the Royal train were especially disappointed in the 
expectations which had been raised in their breasts by the ap- 
pearance of kilted Albanians, that Gaelic would serve as a me- 
dium of converse ; but there was an excellent Corfiote who had 
picked up English in the old days of the British protectorate, 
and there were German-speaking men, remanents of the Othonic 
period in attendance, and so, after a time, all things went pleas- 
antly and well. 

The King and the Prince of Wales went out for a drive in 
mufti, and Mr. Malet, of the British Legation, came to the Palace 
to conduct those who wished to see the Acropolis,- the Theatre of 
Bacchus, and as many of the sights as could be taken in before 
dinner. There is no city in the world, except Cairo, — where 
spick-and-span new Italian and French villas smirk under the 
shadow of the Pyramids, — which presents such contrasts between 
ancient and modern civilization as Athens. From the Acropo- 
lis you see the smoke of tall factory chimneys, rapidly increasing 
in number near the port, streaking the bright blue sky of Attica, 



THE PALACE. 2/ 

and the railway from the Piraeus traversing the plain where once 
flowed, and now trickle, the Cephissus and Ilissus. Separated 
from the base of the citadel by the space whereon lie the Areopagus, 
the Agora, the Theseum, the Pnyx, the Dionysiac Theatre, to the 
w. and s. w. rise the streets of the new city, its Greek churches, and 
lofty white houses glistening in the sun, and the imposing public 
buildings — the National Academy, the University, the Poly- 
technic School, and the Museum — which indicate that there is a 
" living Greece," and that learning, science, and the arts are re- 
membered in the land of their birth. These appear very justly 
to shun the fanes of the older city, although the Temple of the 
Winds, and one or two monuments which stood outside the 
boundaries of Athens, on the north side of the Acropolis, are in- 
cluded within the limits of the fast growing quarter which has 
the brand of Munich and Paris upon it. Since the Prince was 
last here the Venetian Tower has been removed from the Acrop- 
olis, and its place knows it no more. However great the force 
of the sesthetical reasons for the demolition may have been, I 
am not sure that the general effect of the grand mass of ruins, 
as seen from the lower ground, has not been injured by the re- 
moval. 

At dinner the young Princes came to their places at table, and 
when dessert was over took leave, going round to each guest, 
shaking hands, and bidding him good- night in the most charming, 
frank, and pleasant way. The boys resemble their mother — blue, 
serious eyes, serene brows, and wonderfully fair skins. The 
Queen expressed much interest in the expedition, and seemed 
to think that the Princess of Wales could have had no- diffi- 
culty in visiting India; at all events, "she thought the Princess 
might have come as far as Athens." After dinner the King and 
Queen and the Prince of Wales drove out to see the lighting up 
of the rock and the temple of Jupiter Olympius, which was wound 
up by a very effective exhibition of fireworks, with clever com- 
binations of color, including an escutcheon of the Royal Arms. 
But surely in the strict application of rd -[d-ir^ the Acropolis 
ought not to be desecrated by fireworks } Or if that be begging 



28 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

the question — is it not a " desecration " to make the Acropolis 
the scene of a pyrotechnic display? Whilst we were going over 
the Erechtheum and Parthenon we came on gangs of workmen 
fixing the stands for rockets, Roman candles, and simi\a.r /diix 
d' artifice along the fagades. It must be admitted that the dis- 
play pleased thousands of spectators, and that it was very beau- 
tiful. The great crowd which assembled to see the Prince and 
the fireworks behaved with much consideration, although it could 
not be expected they would prove utterly indifferent to the desire 
to have a close view of the Royal personages. 

The King was delighted with his presents from England, 
which were delivered from the Serapis in the afternoon. There 
was a steam-launch, an Alderney bull and cow, a ram and sheep, 
and a few fine specimens of the British pig, which came, I think, 
from Sandringham. 

Tuesday^ October 19. — It was somewhat amusing to make 
out in the morning paper, the " Stoa," the account of the Prince's 
landing yesterday, which appeared under the date of October 7th, 
and to try to identify the persons in attendance upon the PrincCo 
Here they are : 

1. '0 Aob^ T^q EoodepXavdj lifKOTfjq r^(; JJeptxvriiudoq. 

2. ^0 Aopdoq louipteXd^ kopdoq h VTcrjpsffia xai dp^rjydq rrjq 
AuXy^q TOO UpiyxTjTtoq. 

3. '0 KoixTjq "" AvXe(T<p6pd. 

4. '^0 Xoy^aybq r^q iiptTZTtou B. tppovpaq xai unaffiztffrijq rod 
ripty/.TjTcoq Xopdoq Kaptyxrov. 

5. '0 xuptoq W. H. '^PouffffeX i:7t{Ti/io(; Idiairepoq ypaixparshq too 
np{yx7]7Toq. 

'^H. A. M. 7) BaaiXiffffa bizedi^aTo rbv npiyxrjTta kv ttj aWouffrj too 
Spovoo e^ooaa Tzap ahrr^ ri^v fieydXi^v Kuptav xai rdq rpsTq deffnocvi'daq 
t-tri'ixouq xupCaq. 

Td iffTtipaq^ r^ y /jl. /x. idddrj yeufxa eiq o ^xXijdi^ffav 6 7cpiff[ioq TTJq 
^AyyXta^ xaX ij xupia row, xai o[ doio ypa/iftazelq rrjq Ilpsff^sia^ of 
dvioTipo) TcivTS xa). ol i^TJq dxrco : 

I. '(? Ivrtiioraroq Sir Bartle Frere^ aviorepoq ra.^(apyoq rou 



MODERN GREEK. 29 

rdyfiaroq rod ^Affripoq roiv ^ Ivdtibv xai ra^iap^oq roo rdyfxaroq rod 
Aourpou. 

2. '0 OTzoarpdroyix; Prohyn iratpoq (compagnon) too Aourpoo, 
d'^wrepuq d^coj/xartxdq iv ttj VTzrjpsaia zoo Ilpty/.-qTzoi;. 

3: '0 dvrtffuvrayiJiaTdpx'qrjf; "Apdoupoq Ellis ribv kizdixriov rrjq 
6puupdq, dv^repoq dqcw/xarudq x. r. A., (hq dvioripio. 

4. '0 X. Francis Knollys idtatrepix; ypaij^ixarehq rod IIpiyxrjTtog. 

5. ^0 revuoq '^stpaupyoq Fayrev M. D. kraipoq rod napaffTJpou 
rod rdy/xaroq rod 'Aaripoq rcbv "Ldiibv, carpdq rod Upiyx-qnoq. 

6. '0 onoTrXotap^oq Aopdoq Kdpoloq Beresford, bizaaTZLarriq rod 
Upiyxr^TZoq. 

7. '0 aLd£(ntj.(uraroq Canon Duckworth, lepehq rrjq A. M. rrjq 
BaaiXifffffjq rrjq ^ Ayyliaq xdl rod IJpiyxrjTzoq. 

8. '0 dvrv^aoapyoq Drummond. 

^ Exrbq Ta)w dvioripo) ffTjiisiwdivrcov diodexa^ rrjv dxoXooOtav rod 
7rp{yx7j7toq drtoreXodcn xdl ol t^rjq dxrto : 

1. '0 uTtoffrpdrrjyoq Aopdoq ^AX^pidoq Ildysr, I^^ Fcuyer, Sous- 
Mar echal ryjq A. M. r%q Ba<nXi<T(Trjq. 

2. '0 nXotapyoq Honnaih H. Carr Glynn, iralpoq rod rdyfiaroq 
rod Aourpod^ UTraffrctffrijq rrjq BaatXiffffi^q, AujSepvTJrrjq rod dixporou 
ZipaiTiq. 

S- (Tuvrayp.ardpyy]q Owen Williams, dioixrjri]q rod ffovrdy/iaroq 
rr^q ^ E(p (7:7:00 Qpoopdq. 

4. '(? oTcoXoyaybq Augustus Fitz- George, k'xraxroq oTcaff-Ktffrrjq rod 
Tlp(yx-q7:oq, 

5. '0 Tayfiardpyrjq UrdvXeo de A. G. Clark (J' ffovrayjia rwv 
Obffffdpo)\i?\ 

6. '^0 xo^epvTJrrq rod 7:opywrod Oshorne x. Durrand. 

7. ^0 x. ^AX^iproq rpid idtairepoq ypafifMarehq rod (Tip Bartle 
Frere. 

8. '0 xaXXcriyvrjq Zddved Hall. 

We were warned last night to be up early, as the day was to 
be devoted to an excursion to the Royal farm and country house 
at Tatto'i, about two hours and three-quarters' quick drive from 
Athens. The house is situated on the slope of the mountain- 



30 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

side near the site of the ancient Dekelea, which closed the 
most eastern pass over Parnes into Boeotia. Not very long ago 
the robbers who rendered travel so precarious and residence 
so disagreeably exciting in Greece, very much affected this 
vicinity. When I write of these gentry's habitat in the past tense 
I do so out of respect for recent information, but I am bound to 
say that the road from outside the village of Marousi up to the 
farm of Tattoiwas patrolled by soldiers, and that there were 
cavalry pickets stationed at regular intervals all the way in addi- 
tion to the permanent posts of infantry who were observed around 
the small block-houses which command the hill-tops. It was 
not very far from Tattoi that Lord Muncaster's party were seized, 
and the tragedy for which Greece paid so dearly commenced. 
Four years have elapsed since the occurrence of the dreadful 
affair called " the Greek massacre ; " and the indignation excited 
in civilized Europe, and the serious consequences to the Greek 
Government which ensued, may be said to have been the death 
of brigandage. Mr. Erskine was quite right when he said in his 
despatch that if it was quite understood that the nation would 
have to make good any loss inflicted on foreigners, owing 
to the neglect and mismanagement of the Government, the 
latter " would soon discover the means of putting as top to a 
state of things which is mainly due to the supposed exigencies 
of party warfare, and which is a disgrace to any community 
calling itself civilized." M. Zaimes was then Prime Minister. 
General Soutzo was Minister of War. The former declared 
that the brigands were acting in concert with the Chiefs of the 
Opposition. There were men who had declared, months before 
the tragedy, that something would happen which would bring 
about a crisis. They were quite right. The massacre caused a 
ministerial crisis. It did more — it delivered Greece from a 
national curse. 

There must have been, judging from the few anecdotes we 
heard from our Gr :ek friends, many reminiscences of adven- 
tures on the road, which patriotism probably stifled ; but it would 
seem as if the brigandage which disgraced the neighborhood 



A VISIT TO TATTOI. 3 1 

of the capital, and which was too often used as a political 
instrument, has been really extirpated, or at least very nearly 
suppressed. 

The country near the city is tolerably fertile. There are 
large tracts of uncultivated land before we reach the Cephissus ; 
but in the olden days the wastes which are now covered with 
hibiscus, thyme, prickly shrubs and weeds, doubtless bore corn, 
olives, and fruit. These grow abundantly in the valleys, where 
the villages nestle in orange-groves and vineyards, because 
there is running water, though it is nowhere abundant. 

The peasants along the road were fine hardy fellows, not 
differing in appearance or even in dress very much from the 
better sort of contadini in Southern Italy. As the carriages, 
escorted by the Chevaux Legers, who retain the uniform which 
King Otho adapted from Bavaria, whirled by in clouds of dust, 
the wayfarers touched their hats or stood with head uncovered, 
and then continued their course, not stopping to look back, or 
seeming to take much further interest in the cortege, but quite 
respectful whilst in the presence. There were relays of horses, 
guarded by the pickets on the road, but there were not, as there 
would be in most countries, groups of people near 'at hand to 
watch the arrival and departure. The women seemed to do more 
than divide 4he labor of the fields with the men. There is a 
good bridge over the Cephissus, which ran — if the word can be 
applied to its feeble and shrunken thread, which almost merits 
the derisive epithet of " Tzodiv^tcprrj,^' or foot-bath — in a deep 
ravine, with great boulders along its course ; but the bed had 
the characteristics of that of a torrent. From the bridge there 
was a steep ascent, and the road climbed a steep hill-side, 
covered with pine-trees and oak, the former of which gave out 
a strong resinous odor. For about an hour's drive the road 
wound through this wood, through the glades of which were 
caught bright glimpses of the sea away towards Salamis on one 
side, and on the other the hill-fronts gradually rising towards 
Marathon. Then there came the marks of enclosure — fences 
and walls and cleared spaces where the greensward had taken the 



32 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



place of oak and firs. Finally we entered a wild kind of park and 
passed along an avenue to the King's Villa, which is like a large 
Swiss chalet, with extensive outhouses and offices. There are 
magnificent trees in front of it, and breakfast was spread on a 




TATTo'l. — COUNTRY RESIDENCE OF THE KING OF GREECE. 



table in the open air beneath their shade. There was a wine of 
very curious taste, named Resino, which the King commended 
for sanitary properties, but the faces made by those who tasted it 
for the first time indicated that, like the late Lord Derby, 
they would prefer enduring any normal maladies for which it 
might be a specific to taking the medicine. The Farm, in which 
the King takes great ' pleasure, was visited afterwards ; nor was 
a vineyard close to the chalet, in which abounded grapes of won- 
drous' size and great sweetness, left unnoticed. In the park — if 
that it may be called so where Nature has so much of her 



ROYAL BANQUET. ^^r 

own sweet way — there is a Gazebo or Belvedere, recently erected, 
from which there is a beautiful view ; and here, by the King's 
orders, are deposited the various antiquities which from time, to 
time are dug up by the laborers in making drains and ponds. 
There is already a very respectable collection of cinerary urns, 
fragments of statuary, pottery, portions of marble columns and 
capitals, and it is intended to make further researches. Many 
of these were found near the site of Dekelea. After a saunter 
through the very charming grounds and a scamper on horseback, 
for which the horses of the King and of the Chevaux Legers 
were impressed, the party set out on the return to Athens, where 
there was to be a grand State Banquet at the Palace in the 
Prince's honor. 'My companion, Admiral Sachtouris, aide-de- 
camp to the King, who had been in the British navy and is an 
excellent specimen of a Greek naval officer, told some inter- 
esting stories of his native island of Hydra, which still furnishes 
the best sailors to the Greek navy, royal and mercantile. The 
island not very long ago nearly depopulated itself in an im- 
mense migration. Not less than 4000 Hydriots went off to the 
United States, where many acquired competence and where 
some made fortunes, as a proof of which they sent home large 
sums for beneficent purposes ; but with that extraordinary attach- 
ment to abstract "Greece," which many of the Greeks, however, 
show rather in their death than in their life, they came back in 
old age to their native island to die. One Hydriot returned 
a short time ago "an Admiral in the United States navy" (so 
said Admiral Sachtouris) " and sought in vain for a trace of his 
kindred ; " and so went away once more to America. Not- 
withstanding that extraordinary drain, Hydra is flourishing, and 
still keeps up its supply of able and excellent sailors. 

It was dark before Athens, over the site of which there 
was a bright halo from the illuminations in the streets, came in 
view. Anticipating the Prince's return, discharges of rockets 
were going on from the Acropolis and from the ships in the Piraeus, 
which lighted up plain and sea. 

The streets were filled with masses of people, through which 
2* 3 



34 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

the carriages went at full speed. Balconies crowded, windows 
ablaze, Chinese and Italian lanterns and transparencies, testified 
to the desire of the Greeks to do honor to the guest of their 
King. The Banquet gave occasion for the King to assemble all 
that was eminent in public life, literature, and science in Athens. 
In the saloon before dinner there was a striking scene. Most 
of the older men of the company appeared in their palikar 
dresses, than which nothing could more become their fine faces 
and figures. Conspicuous among the crowd, which glittered 
with laces, orders, and decorations, moved M. Boulgaris, a most 
patriarchal-looking old man, dressed in a furred robe and soutane, 
with a skull-cap on his massive head, a bright, keen, eager 
eye set under a broad brow, and a face like that of Titian's 
" Doge." There were men, too, whose names are familiar to 
the students of Greek politics as those of leaders of Ministries 
which last, on an average, some half-dozen months^ — M. Tricoupi, 
now in power, a young man with a very intelligent, earnest, and 
expressive face, M. Zaimes, M. Comoundouros, M. Deligeorgis, 
M. Delyannis, &c. — each representing the nucleus of possible 
combinations of party-men uniting to obtain power and oust the 
men in office, rather than distinctive political principles. 

Covers for 120 were laid in the Great Hall, which would do 
credit to the palace of an Emperor, and is finer than many ban- 
queting-halls where monarchs of the first rank give their feasts 
of honor. It was built, if I mistake not, in King Otho's time, 
and displays a prodigious wealth of the purest marble. The 
immense height and grand dimensions of the place render it 
possible to keep the air tolerably cool when many hundred 
of wax lights are burning. The cooking was French, the at- 
tendance Greek, and the military Band played often enough to 
take off the stress of conversation. There were no speeches, and 
only two toasts. When dessert was over, the Prince took the 
Queen's arm, and led her forth, followed by the King and the 
company, to the other great room, where ices, &c. were served ; 
and a conversazione ensued, which lasted an hour or more. 
Many presentations were made to the Prince, who must by this 



CONSTITUTIONAL TROUBLES. 35 

time be tolerably well acquainted with nearly every one of the 
busy, restless politicians who fret and fume their lives away in 
Athens. They put one in mind of a grand intelligence— a mind 
full of ardor for action — cased in a puny frame. The tene- 
ment of Greek clay is all too small for that fiery Attic soul. 
The men of Athens may be still " decfTtdacfj.ov£(TT^p<n," but they 
have exchanged the direction of their thoughts now-a-days. 
They prefer pictures to statues. 

The descendants of the rude islanders, — who were in a state 
of primeval savageness, fighting for their lives with wild beasts 
and each other, armed only with flint weapons, and living in 
caves, at the time when the dwellers in Athens were carrying 
philosophy and the arts to a pitch of excellence which has 
left its mark above our highest efforts— proud of steam-engines, 
iron-clads, recent empire, immense wealth, and prodigious luxury 
— can only set themselves on a satisfactory elevation in compar- 
ison with modern Greeks by assuming that the latter are not 
descendants of the ancient races of Hellas. The Greeks of 
this latter period are indeed apt to swagger as if each of them 
could point to his descent from Alcibiades. They provoke an 
ill-bred, and perhaps unjustifiable, disposition to draw a line 
somewhere, and to cut them off from the grand inheritance they 
claim — not only the inheritance of the past, but the succession 
to a stupendous future. 

The affairs of Turkey were naturally the subject of much 
conversation, but the statesmen who were presented to the 
Prince did not talk politics. The insurrection in the Herze- 
govina interests every one at Athens, and most of all the King, 
who, young as he is, possesses the political capacity to a high 
degree, and foresees the risks to the peace of Greece and of 
the world which will arise from the prolongation of the contest. 
At present there is no outward sign of dangerous excitement, but 
the "Great Idea" is not dead — it is only sleeping. There is 
a fixed idea that Turkey must break up, and that her bankruptcy 
just announced points to a speedy dissolution, which some say 
looks suicidal. Every Greek feels — most sav — that of right, 



36 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Crete, Epirus, Thessaly, and half of Macedonia should be theirs, 
and that they have a clear reversionary right to Constantinople. 

There was some trifle to relieve the solid pudding of dis- 
course j and one gentleman said that when he saw the Serapis 
adrift " he thought she was going to destroy the whole Greek 
navy at one blow." An American officer added that the Prince 
of Wales had been " most liberal ! His Royal Highness has 
made the King a present of a bull, cows, sheep, pigs, and — two 
anchors y 

October 20. — I desired the excellent piper Maclachlan, who 
is in attendance on the Duke of Sutherland, and was lent to 
me — not in his musical capacity — to call me early, as I expected 
a visitor — not to be later than seven. He not being as familiar 
with Greek as with Gaelic, could not set the living machinery 
connected with cold and hot water supply for bath and shaving 
in order. Any way, he was late by an hour ; and so it was that 
the visitor I expected came in and found me in bed. The visit, 
however, was not in vain ; and for an hour I listened to most 
interesting information on the present condition of Greece — 
the difficulties which beset her ; the admirable qualities of the 
people ; the causes which have operated to retard her pro- 
gress, or rather to prevent its more rapid march ; and the out- 
look full of hope — if a few " ifs " be happily gratified. To find 
the source of many mischiefs, it was only necessary to place 
one's -hand on the rock which well-meant people intended as 
the basis of a splendid national edifice, but which they put 
over the mouth of a well — the Greek Constitution. My inform- 
ant did not say so, nor would he admit anything of the kind ; 
but, following his conversation closely, it could be easily seen 
that all, or nearly all the dangers with which good government 
in Greece was threatened arose from that ridiculous Constitution 
given at the time of the Independence. 

It is unnecessary now to inquire whether the National 
Assembly of Greece was or was not responsible for the Revo- 
lution of 1862, which drove King Otho from the throne after 
a reign of twenty-nine years ; but it is very necessary to inquire 



CONSTITUTIONAL TROUBLES. 37 

whether the present condition of the kingdom is such as satisfies 
the just expectations of the Three Powers, which formerly gave, 
and now guarantee, the independence of Greece. When the 
National Assembly, in March, 1863, declared a young Prince of 
the Royal Family of Denmark King of the Hellenes, under the 
title of Giorgios I., it accepted towards the Monarch, then a lad 
of eighteen years of age, responsibilities which have hitherto 
been repudiated or ignored. Not only has he been exposed to 
misrepresentation and unjust suspicions on the part of some of 
his subjects, but he has been deprived by the selfish struggles of 
faction of the support in his office on which a Constitutional 
monarch has a right to rely. He has been thwarted and opposed 
in his efforts to establish good government by continuous intrigue, 
and by scarcely concealed disloyalty and ill-will. Full of gener- 
ous sentiments, animated by the highest motives, and " con- 
sumed by the love of his people," he has been consistently, if 
not purposely, baffled in his endeavors to develop the resources 
of the country, and to divert the thoughts' of the people from 
vain aspirations after Eastern Empire to solid industry and prac- 
tical improvement of the resources of their country. There is in 
the Royal Palace at Athens a picture of Prometheus bound to 
the rock, with the vulture tearing at his side, whilst in the dis- 
tance appears the form of the victim's deliverer. The young 
King may be pardoned if he sees in the work a subtle allusion to 
his own fate ; though he may not be able to detect the means of 
his deliverance. He is bound in chains to a Constitution which 
he alone of all men is forced to recognize. The most bitter 
partisan cannot say he has been unmindful of his oath, or ne- 
glectful of his duties. For twelve years he has only been absent 
from his kingdom ten months, and he has applied himself to 
the serious hard work of kingcraft with an assiduity and success 
which have won the admiration of his ever-changing Ministers. 
No one knows Greece better, or more thoroughly understands 
her position in relation to the rest of the world. Master of 
the language, he has made it his business to inquire into the 
working of every public department ; and no lawyer in his king- 



38 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

dom — and there are many lawyers in Greece — is better acquainted 
with the Constitution with which she is afflicted. But all these hi£:h 
qualifications, attributes, and aims on the part of the Chief of 
the state are rendered almost impotent for good by the mischiev- 
ous activity of political parties which that Constitution has, if 
not created, at least encouraged. The normal condition of the 
Government is " crisis," and as there are no political internal 
questions to divide the members of the Assembly into great 
parties, the King has to deal" with men who only represent their 
own interests and the cupidity of their followers. There remain, 
then, not measures but men — not policies but passions — not 
wholesome political strife, but personal intrigue and self-seeking. 
The doctrinaires, and the party which advocated " The Great 
Idea," have received a severe blow by the fate of the Cretan 
Insurrection, and are at present quiescent, or have," at least, de- 
sisted from an open propaganda ; but they still exist. " I do not 
say," observed a foreign statesman, who knows Greece well, 
" that M. Comoundouros, M. Deligeorgis, M. Zaimes, M. Dely- 
annis, or M. Boulgaris have no individual views : on the con- 
trary, the latter, at all events, has very decided intentions, and 
would be a man of action if the means were at his disposal ; but 
that any differences of opinion on public questions which may 
exist between the leaders of parties are not considered for a 
moment if a movement or combination be needed to turn out the 
adversary of the hour, who is an adversary because he is in place, 
and that the facility with which such combinations are effected 
is, owing to the working of the Constitution, destructive of any 
hope of a stable Government, and of permanent improvement 
and progress." There are neither Tories nor Whigs, Conserva- 
tives, Liberals, nor Radicals in Greece ; and, with one exception, 
the men who come in and the men who go out, work in the same 
lines in and out of power. The present Assembly consists of 
1 88 members, and according to the Constitution there must be 
an absolute majority of all the members to enable a Minister to 
carry a measure. The Premier of the day cannot continue in 
office if he cannot command the votes of ninety-five followers ; 



GREEK POLITICS. 



39 



and when the Tricoupi Cabinet, which came into power to pre- 
side over the creation of the Assembly which has just finished 
the verification of the returns of its members, found that it 
could only muster thirty votes, and that M. Comoundouros, M. 
Zaimes, and Deligeorgis would not support it, there was no choice 
left to M. Tricoupi but to resign. When a Minister is forced to 
take such a step in England, he advises the Queen to send for 
the leader of the party which has sat at the other side of the 
House during his term of office, and the King of Greece has 
hitherto generally acted on a similar principle, and has called in 
the statesman who commanded the largest number of adherents. 
That gentleman usually accepted office with alacrity, and informed 
the King he had such promises of support as enabled him to 
look forward with confidence to the formation of an enduring 
Ministry. So it was some years ago when M. Comoundouros 
came into power, and M. Zaimes and M. Deligeorgis assured the 
King they would give him their aid ; but in a few hours these 
gentlemen united their forces once more, and turned M. Comoun- 
douros out. At the present moment, the men whose names 
head the list of candidates for place can muster, as near as caa 
be judged, the following number of votes : — 



Comoundouros 


. . . 60 


Zaimes . . . . 


40 


Deligeorgis . . . . 


• • 35 


Tricoupi . . . . 


20 


Delyannis . . . . 


. . . IS 


Boulgaris . . . . 


. . . 13 



183 

If M. Comoundouros, elected President, seeks to form a 
Cabinet, he must come to the King, for the King will not send 
for him. When he appears his Majesty will have a right to 
demand some guarantees that he can command a majority, and 
that he will not expose him to another " crisis " in a few days ; 
but as the other leaders have already broken their promises, it 
is not probable that the King will be satisfied with anything short 



40 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

of a written promise that those who induce M. Comoundouros 
to come forward will sign a declaration of their readiness to sup- 
port him when he is placed in office. The directness of his 
honest Danish nature; fortified by his youthful education at sea, 
is evidenced in every act of his public life, and it disconcerts the 
subtlety of Greek politicians much more than any finesse. Not 
that the King is by any means deficient in tact or statecraft, but 
that he conceives it is safer to follow a straight course than a 
crooked one. Hitherto he has steered his course through a sea 
of troubles with extraordinary skill and judgment, but it is to be 
feared that there are great trials in store for him. 

The Chanson de depart sounded early in the Palace. A gen- 
eral packing-up — one stage more in the journey eastward to be 
made ; the short visit to Athens terminates to-day. The King, 
attended by his constant companion, a splendid Danish boar- 
hound, who has a little wee black doggie to wait on him in turn, 
came round the corridors, and paid visits to the suite. 

There was a reception by the King and Queen after breakfast, 
and subsequently those who had not received the honor on a 
former occasion, were decorated by the King with the Order of 
the Redeemer, and made Grand Crosses, &c. The departure of 
the Prince from the Palace was made, as he came, in state, and 
he was accompanied by the King and Queen, and by several 
members of their Court, to the Station, and thence to the Pirasus, 
where arrangements had been made for an excursion to sea. 
There was a Guard of Honor, an escort of the Chevaux Legers, 
and a considerable crowd outside the portico and in the square 
before the entrance. The officials and the servitors of the Pal- 
ace, in very picturesque uniforms and costumes, rich with embroid- 
ery, but wearing that head-dress already described, which, for all 
its long tassel, puts one in mind of the Turkish fez, were drawn 
up in order in the corridor and hall. The Prince and suite were 
en grande tenue, and as they drove through the streets to the 
train, it seemed as if the crowd were more warm in their greeting 
and a little more demonstrative in their marks of respect. There 
was certainly more waving of handkerchiefs and cheers. The 



OUT OF THE PIILEUS. 4I 

Athenians were evidently acting on one part of the Homeric 
advice — to speed the parting guest. 

There was a strong breeze blowing seawards, and the scene 
looked as bright and beautiful as it did on the morning of our 
arrival. Under a thundering salute from the Hercules and Swift- 
sure, the Greek gunboats and the Russian stationnaire, Psezouap^ 
the King, the Queen, and the Prince went off, to the Serapis 
which had her steam up ready to start. By the aid of divers, 
after much hard work, she had managed to recover both her an- 
chors by noon to-day. Admiral Boutakoff, Admiral Drummond, 
&c., were invited to breakfast, to which so many were bidden 
that even the great length and breadth of the Serapis could 
scarcely furnish room for them. After luncheon, the King and 
the Prince went on board the Hercules^ and soon after their re- 
turn the Serapis stood out to sea ; but not quite without another 
trouble, for, as they were weighing anchor, it was found that 
her cable had fouled the cable or the anchor of the Hercules — 
and she was obliged to leave it — No. 3 lost pro tem, — in the 
Piraeus. Then, just when she had got under way, and her 
head was pointed to the narrow channel between the marks, the 
Assyrien, a French steamer, steamed right in her course, and 
threatened to make a collision or taking the ground inevitable. 
These are things of a sort to try the marine temper. As the two 
vessels scraped past each other. Captain Glyn probably was 
thoroughly glad to be out of the Piraeus, where he seemed at one 
time likely to make a longer stay than would have been altogether 
agreeable, and felt that the Frenchman was, at all events, not 
polite. The Amphitrite and the Osborne followed astern. The 
weather was all that could be desired, and their Majesties were 
apparently delighted by the excursion to sea. There was an 
exchange of souvenirs, photographs, &c. The Band played 
nearly all day. Tea was served on deck, and then came a state 
dinner, in levee dress. Night fell, — deep blue, not black, — her 
mantle studded with stars. Then up rose the moon ; not yellow, 
but brightest silver. It is only further west that " the sun looks 
like the moon, and the moon looks like a cheese. " The Greek 



42 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

fishers must have gazed in wonder on the Serapis, a phantom 
argosy of white and gold, all her ports gleaming high above the 
wave ; her attendant yachts hung with lanterns, which scarcely 
vibrated, so placid was the sea. The island of Hydra was report- 
ed in sight, seven miles on the starboard beam, the island of St. 
George on our port-quarter. It was now lo p.m. The Serapis 
and her consorts lay-to. The steam-launch was in readiness ; 
the crew manned the sides ; as the King and Queen appeared on 
the main-deck and took leave of the Prince, ere they stepped 
down the companion, the Marines presented arms, and the band 
played the Greek national anthem. At the instant the bulwarks 
of the Serapis, in the ports of which lights were placed from stem 
to stern, were lined by the crew burning blue fires ; and at the 
yard-arms, up to the royals, appeared, bright as if in the sunsliine, 
sailors with blazing portfires. And then what a sight it must 
have been for those out at sea, and to the dwellers in the islands, 
when the Serapis and Osborne burst into active eruption, with 
maroons, shells, and fountains of many-colored flame, and, 
vieing with each other, sent flights of hundred of rockets into 
the sky, where they seemed to wage a mimic war and to sow the 
heavens with new but evanescent constellations ! The effect, 
even to those on board, was very beautiful ; the Serapis admired 
the Osborne, as she no doubt was admired by the Osborne and 
the Greek yacht There was but one inconvenience from the 
beautiful display, and that was caused by the dropping of the 
burning composition info the launch ere it could be shoved off, 
and some little damage, or fear of it, to the dresses of the occu- 
pants. The Prince went off to the Amphitrite and took leave 
of their Majesties under their own flag ; when he came on board 
again, the Serapis and Osborne, with parting cheers and bouquets 
of rockets, steered their course for Port Said, and the King and 
Queen returned to their famous but agitated little capital. 




KING AND QUEEN OF GREECE LEAVING THE "SERAPIS." 




STUDYING RELIEF MAP. 



CHAPTER II. 

'FROM THE PIR^US TO GRAND CAIRO. 

Theatre Royal, Serapis— Sports and Pastimes— The Saloon— Port Said— 
The Suez Canal— Ismailia— The Palace of Gezireh— The Khedive- 
Investiture of Prince Tewfik — The Pyramids — " Why go to India ? " — 
Departure from Cairo — Farewell to Suez. 

October 21. — xA.t dawn Crete was in sight on our starboard 
bow. Surely there never was more stately^ ship nor gentler for- 
tune in these waters ! Not a breath of wind. The crew beat to 
quarters, and were exercised at putting out an imaginary fire, and 
in closing the water-tight compartments, to which recent occur- 
rences at sea had given unusual interest. The sectional drawing 
of the Serapis which is nailed up on the main-deck forward is 
awful to contemplate. It represents a mighty maze of pipes, 



THEATRE ROYAL, " SERAPIS. 45 

valves, stop-cocks, and machinery, which sets one thinking ; and 
Mr. Hulton, the first lieutenant, who is always working down 
below, said it was a week's hard practical study to master the 
secrets of our floating prison-house. At noon the thermometer 
marked 70°. The awning fenced off the sun's rays, but they 
glanced fiercely from the bright blue sea, which spread out sail- 
less, birdless, and apparently Ashless, to desolate-looking San- 
torin. In the afternoon there was a gentle breeze right astern, 
the sea crisply lapping the sides of the ship, which was so steady 
that the Prince and his friends could play deck tennis, an adap- 
tation of lawn tennis, which did very well indeed, only that the 
balls were apt to fly overboard. Whereupon it was enacted that 
he who knocked a ball overboard should pay one sovereign fine ; 
howbeit at the end of the voyage there were less balls out of the 
many provided than sovereigns, but that was a matter of detail. 
Pistol practice at marks hung to the yard-arms varied the tennis- 
playing. 

In the evening, the Prince and the company repaired to the 
after-part of the quarter-deck, on the starboard side, where a very 
pretty little theatre had been set up. Chairs were placed on 
deck from the wheeihouse forward to the companion. Behind 
these were ranged the picturesque masses of the crew and the 
marines, some in the rigging and mizen chains, others on the 
bulwarks — a very attentive and enthusiastic audience. There 
was a drop-scene, well executed by one of the men, representing 
the Serapis leaving Portsmouth. When the curtain was raised 
it revealed an elevated stage of moderate capacity, provided 
with a piano and the inevitable troop of Ethiopian Serenaders, 
furnished by the bandsmen, sailors, and marines. The stage 
manager was Mr. Smith Dorrien, one of the lieutenants, and the 
theatrical company was furnished by the ship's crew ; the Mag- 
nus Apollo was an A.B. sailor named Spry, — a fine, manly-look- 
ing tar, with a big beard, and a burly voice, and with a turn for 
versification, for which the rules of rhyming needed to be stretch- 
ed a little. He was evidently a favorite with the crew, for before 
he had said a word he was cheered, and his song on " Optiona 



46 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Cocoa " was received with wild enthusiasm. Now " Optional 
Cocoa " seemed a recondite subject, but it was one well known 
to his audience. They roared at every satiric touch of Mr. Spry, 
as he recounted his experience of life as one of the seamen on 
board a. ship of the Channel squadron, in which, by the Admi- 
ral's orders, it was " optional " for the crew to take a cup of cocoa 
in lieu of some more stimulating beverage. The entertainment 
was diversified by clog-dances, hornpipes, sentimental ditties, 
and " regular fore-bitters," by various legs and voices, and it was 
brought to a close at 1 1 o'clock by " God save the Queen," sung 
by the company with a chorus from the audience, and the ship's 
company. Prince and all, standing with heads uncovered. All 
the men enjoyed it very much, and the encouragement given by 
the Prince's presence was very grateful to those concerned in 
providing so much harmless pleasure for their fellows. 
The following was the programme : 

H.M.S. ''SERAPIS." 

CHRISTY'S MINSTRELS, 

2ist October, 1875. 
Part I. 

Overture Encore Band. 

Opening Chorus " We niggers are free " .... Company. 

Solo " Pretty little dark eyes " Seidon. 

Solo Napolitaine Snell. 

Comic " Hat and Feather " Brandon. 

Comic " Kingdom's Coming " . . . . Holmes. 

Part II. 

Solo .' " Nellie's Answer " Coster. 

Comic Sketch ..." Statue Blanchia " Holmes & Brandon. 

Dance Break Down . . . Duff & Hill. 

Comic ''King Coffee Dust" Spry. 

Plantation Walk Round . . . . ' Company. 

October 22. — Dr. Fayrer, full of hygienic wisdom and sani- 



PORT SAID. 47 

tary precautions, gave 'counsel ^^esterday that the generous energy 
of the French chef should be restrained ; that the number of hot 
dishes at breakfast should be reduced to two ; that attendance 
at lunch should be, like cocoa in the Channel squadron, " option- 
al; "and that three courses at least -should be struck off the 
dinner menu ; and next (this) morning the new rules came into 
effect. All day the Serapis screwed steadily along with her 
head pointed Egyptwards, the Osborne following at her prescribed 
distance. There were many means of passing the time pleas- 
antly on board in such fine weather. There was a large relief 
chart of India against the side of the Prince's sitting-room to 
study. There were many books — novels in French and English, 
voyages and travels, works relating to India, biographies, history, 
and literature, heavy and light — in the drawing-room bookcases ; 
and there was another smaller collection in the quarter-deck 
saloon. There were chess and backgammon boards in the 
saloon — seldom used, however, as the attractions of tennis were 
greater, and there were pistol practice and the general amuse- 
ments of the deck, such as quoits and ball. There were letters 
to be written at the many well-furnished writing-tables ; a little 
music to listen to when Prince Louis of Battenberg or some 
other less gifted amateur could spare half-an-hour ; inspections 
of the horses and animals ; visits to the bridge, to the ward-room ; 
and there was last, not least, the never-failing solace of a siesta 
in one's cabin when the pen began to falter and the words on 
the paper danced before the wearied eyes. 

October 23. — The speed of the vessel was once more reduced 
to eight knots, as it was when we were running for the Piraeus, 
lest the vessels should arrive to soon at Port Said ; but at dawn, 
this morning, the look-out man reported that the harbor-light 
was in sight. The engines slowed, until the little squadron only 
just crept through the discolored sea, for we were still too early. 
The land-fall of Port Said is not easy, for the strip of beach on 
which the town stands is not six feet above the water-level ; but 
the Light House is very lofty, and there are also a few date-trees 
to mark the site, and close to them there were now visible a 



48 THE PRINCE OF WALES" TOUR. 

clump of masts and rigging, and a tall flag-staff which seemed to 
rise from the sea. At 7.30 a.m. those on the deck of the Sera- 
pis could distinguish the color of the flags flying from the Con- 
sulates on shore, and from the shipping inside the breakwater, 
conspicuous among which were H.M.SS, Invincible and Pallas^ 
which had arrived from Brindisi. The men-of-war and the 
Egyptian yacht Mahsa saluted as soon as they made out the Roy- 
al Standard. At 8.30 a.m. the Serapis and Osborne entered the 
Canal, and proceeded slowly ahead between the two breakwaters 
to their moorings off the Custom House ; the Invincible^ 'Pallas^ 
and Egyptian frigates manning yards and cheering; the bands 
on deck playing " God save the Queen ; " and a guard of honor 
of Egyptian infantry drawn up on shore, with band and colors, 
presenting arms and saluting with martial flourishes of trumpets. 
Port Said has ample stores of bunting; and there was a 
great display of it; but the people were not very demonstrative, 
and although there was a considerable crowd of the dwellers in 
that accident — which cannot be called lucky for them, at all 
events — on shore, there was not any cheering. There was some 
curiosity shown by the population near the shore, but the coal- 
heavers and the dredgers went on with their work as usual, and 
people were to be seen up the long sandy streets, lined by wooden 
huts, who could not be tempted to the water's edge to look at 
the Royal personages and their suites in all the splendor of full- 
dress uniform. The bulk of the people are French by birth or 
naturalization. Certainly they are French by feeling, and they 
still cherish the recollection of the hostility England displayed 
to the enterprise, to the success of which she now so largely 
contributes. It is the most curious spot on the face of the globe. 
On the strip of land between Lake Menzaleh and the sea there 
is pitched tent-like on the loose sand, which rises over the shoes 
where asphalte or planking has not been deposited, a city . of 
wooden houses, laid in perfect parallelograms, and furnished with 
shops and magazines, where every article of European luxury can 
be had. Outside, on the same belt of sand, in a condition akin 
to savagery, there is a settlement of Arabs. The commerce of 



SUEZ CANAL. 49 

one quarter of the world passes by the city, but few traders land, 
and none remain there. The population, which probably exceeds 
15,000, lives, however, on the crumbs of that commerce ; and the 
most singular fact connected with this singular place is 
that the whole of the towns-people, and of the natives 
around it, depend for fresh water on the work of a steam- 
engine sixty miles away, which drives it from the Sweet- 
water Canal at Ismailia to feed the reservoirs at Port Said. Per- 
haps there is no place in the world which contains members of 
so many different nationalities. In addition to the Arabs and 
fellaheen, every European country has representatives — Tunisi- 
ans, Algerines, Syrians, Moors, Hindostanees, Persians, Chinamen 
— who mingle with people from all the isles of the sea, and yet, 
I was told, that serious crimes are not frequent. The place has 
created itself and its police ; but Port Said, as all the world knows, 
owes its existence to M. de Lesseps' determining that the end 
of the Canal— or the beginning, if you like it better — should be 
at this precise point. It was but a point on the sea-beach extend- 
ing from Damietta to the coast of Palestine, and it was selected 
to be the site of the Port because the sea-soundings off that 
point gave greater depth of water than at other points in the 
curve. 

As soon as the Serapis was abreast of the quay of the Custom 
House, where the guard of honor was stationed, Major-General 
Stanton, Consul-General, came on board to pay his respects, 
and to take orders respecting the arrangement for the journey on 
to Cairo. There was a great " turning of keys and grating of 
locks " as baggage was sorted out to be transferred to the Os- 
borne, and a mighty hurrying to and fro on the main-deck to get 
all things in readiness. A State pinnace put off from the Egyp- 
tian yacht, with the Princes Tewfik, Hussein, and Hassan, in 
very rich uniforms. They were accompanied by Nubar Pasha, 
Mustapha Pasha, and other officers of the Khedive's Court. 

The Prince had on his Indian helmet and plume, blue undress 
frock coat, with Field-Marshal's insignia, and- white trousers — 
the suite according to order. The helmet is. a very presentable 
3 4 



50 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

head-dress. The military men wear a Y&ritdhXtpickel-haube, with a 
spike on the top like the end of a classical spear ; gilt for regu- 
lars, silver for yeomanry and militia, metal scale chin-straps to 
match. The civilians rejoice in a brass or gilt knob instead of a 
spike (less dangerous in thunder-storms) ; but after their arrival 
in India it was found that the metal chin-scales "were not legiti- 
mate, and that there was nothing like leather for them, and the 
scales were accordingly lightened. The Prince received the Egyp- 
tian Princes with much warmth, and engaged in conversation 
with them until they rose to return to their yacht, which was to 
follow the Osborne. 

In future it will be scarcely necessary to say that " the Prince 
was accompanied by the members of his suited It may be taken 
for granted that ^neas was always followed by his faithful 
friends, — '■^ Fortis Gyas^fortisque Cloanthus^'^—zxid. that, as far 
as outward adornment in the matter of uniform was concerned, 
their appearance was regulated by that of his Royal Highness. 

After the departure of the Egyptians, the light baggage hav- 
ing been transferred to the Osborne, the Prince, attended by 
Major-General Stanton, shifted his flag from the Serapis to the 
Osborne, which went up the Canal, with the Royal flag flying 
at the main and the Egyptian at the fore, at ten knots an hour, 
under a salute from the Invincible which made the wooden habi- 
tations of Port Said shake to their not very stable foundations. 

The last time a Royal Standard floating over these waters in- 
dicated the presence of the head of a great Power, was when the 
Empress Eugenie, leading one of the most glorious naval proces- 
sions ever witnessed in the world, opened the Suez Canal, along 
which we were now speeding towards Ismailia. It was certamly 
a tribute to the genius and insistence of Baron de Lesseps that 
the Heir to the English Throne should be seeking India by a 
route the idea of which was so much in disfavor in England for 
so many years, and the execution of which was both secretly op- 
posed and openly discountenanced by the most powerful of 
English Ministers as politically dangerous and as practically im- 
possible. It was that opposition which created the Canal — in 



TO ISMAILIA. 51 

the first place, by stimulating French feeling on the subject of 
English jealousy, and tickling the mouths of French money-bags 
by appeals to national vanity ; and in the second place, by forc- 
ing Baron de Lesseps to call in the aid of mechanical genius to 
provide the means which were denied to him by the Egyptian 
Government when they removed the laborers, in consequence of 
the representations of our Government that the corvee was, in 
fact, "slavery," and that the scenes of misery which accompan- 
ied the making of the Mahmoodieh Canal must not be repeated 
so late in the nineteenth century. 

The Prince took great interest in the scene which was pre- 
sented on either side of the two narrow mud walls marking the 
course of the Canal through Lake Menzaleh — the broad expanse 
where the water and the sand of the Desert mingle, undistin- 
guishable one from the other, save that boats, busily engaged in 
fishing, marked the outlines of flotation, and that vast flocks of 
flamingoes and pelicans, standing breast-deep, showed where the 
land was rising to the surface of the lacus piscosus. By special 
order the Osborne was allowed to proceed at a speed f orbidde n 
to ordinary vessels : and as the wave impelled by her bow broke 
on the banks, mullet and other fish, disturbed by the unusual 
rush of water, bounded repeatedly high in the air. When the 
Osborne, followed by the Mahsa, rushed past the elevateurs and 
dredging stations on the banks, and the small reed-huts and 
houses of the employes, the men of many nations paused for a 
while at their labor, and now and then raised a cheer, or raised 
their caps respectfully as the notion burst upon them that a great 
Prince was passing. No more difiicult pilotage can well devolve 
upon a man than that of the Canal, narrow as it is, for every 
inch of water must be measured accurately, and ' the slightest 
turn of the wheel Avill send a ship pretty hard and fast for the 
time ; but the French pilot knew his work thoroughly. Indeed, 
Captain Glyn, and other naval officers who had experience of the 
management of the Canal in all its details, gave, unqualified 
praise to the excellent method and precision of the service. Tiie 
nicest management, of course, was needed in the case of vessels 



52 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

encountered in the way, of which there were not a few — the Scot- 
land oi London, the Motitgomeryshire^ and others. The Peninsu- 
lar and Oriental steamer Fekin^ with the passengers of the bro- 
ken-down Deccan, was passed about half-way to Ismailia. From 
men up masts, rigging, and yards, and from her crowded deck, 
came repeated cheers for the Prince of Wales ; but as he stood 
on deck, with a great crowd of persons in the same kind of dress, 
all of them with lorgnettes to their eyes trying to make out their 
friends on board the Fekin, it is probable there were doubts as 
to his identity, until he raised his cap in acknowledgment of the 
cheering. Amongst the passengers by the Fekin were the spe- 
cial correspondents of the London and other papers on their way 
to India. The Royal visit to Cairo just enabled them to reach 
Bombay a few days in advance of the Prince. 

The great stretch of Lake Timsah, on which Ismailia is built, 
attracted special notice, when it was explained to the travellers 
that where navies can now ride triumphantly there was but a few 
years before a desert, and salt-pits, and barren rock ; but the 
Prince was familiar with the scene, as he had visited it with M. 
de Lesseps before the canal was opened. At Ismailia, which 
the Osborne reached at 5 p. m., every preparation had been made 
— infantry and cavalry guards, and a force of military-looking, 
well-dressed, and active Egyptian police — to show the Prince all 
fitting honor. Carriages, comprising all the resources of Ismailia 
in the way of vehicles, with auxiliaries from Cairo, conveyed the 
Royal party to the station ; but the luggage was not quite so 
mobile, and there was a delay of some half-hour before everything 
was transported from the steamer to the baggage-vans. The 
American saloon and state carriages, so familiar to many recip- 
ients of the Khedival hospitality, were in readiness, provided 
with a train of valets and ample store of refreshments. The 
Egyptian Princes Tewfik, Hassan, and Hussein, Nubar Pasha, 
Mustapha Pasha, and the officials of the Court, busied them- 
selves with the necessary preparations for departure, which 
chiefly consisted in the carriage of the baggage from the shore 
to the station, but that was at last effected. And as the sun was 



ARRIVAL AT CAIRO. 53 

setting on the horizon, which melted into the grey Desert in the 
distance, the train gHded, amid loud cheers from a crowd of sev- 
eral hundreds of persons, among whom were many French ladies 
and gentlemen, out of the pretty station of Ismailia on its way to 
Cairo. The Moslem Pharaoh has not neglected the interests of 
his country like the Turk. In the memory of young men the Desert 
and the land between the Bitter Lake and Cairo were roadless, 
— no vehicle travelled where there is now regular railway traffic, 
— the camel and the ass afforded the only means of conveyance. 

It was then past six o'clock, but the line was clear, the car- 
riages in good order, and the train, carefully driven under the 
orders of Betts Bey, ran continuously through to Cairo at the 
rate of forty miles an hour, and at nine o'clock drew up at the 
platform of the Shoubra Road Station. The Khedive, in gala 
uniform of blue and gold, and with all his orders on, surrounded 
by his ministers and by the foreign Consular body, stood waiting 
for the Prince, beside him towered the Grand Duke Alexis of 
Russia, in naval uniform, attended by his officers. There was a 
battalion of infantry drawn up from end to end of the platform, 
the passages were lined with soldiery, and another regiment was 
on duty outside the station. The Prince was in full uniform. 
The station was as light as day, from gaslight and torches, and 
the coup d'ceil, as the Khedive advanced to meet his guest, — and 
the whole mass of men in uniform, lace and jewels moved along 
the platform, — was striking. There was a most warm greeting. 
The carriages of the Khedive, turned out faultlessly, were wait- 
ing. There was a host of runners and masalchees to precede 
them, and the Prince and his host drove off amid cheers, music, 
and clattering of sabres through the well-watered streets of the 
new quarter of Cairo, and turning to the west, passed the Nile by 
the Iron Bridge to the Gezireh Palace which had been assigned 
for the Royal residence. 

The Khedive, having installed the Prince in his sumptuous 
quarters, took leave, and was driven to Abdeen, at the other side 
of the river, which seems to be his favorite abode. The Gez- 
ireh Palace was, I think, built for the reception of the Empress 



54 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Eugenie ; and it is certainly in some respects worthy of its pur- 
pose. The rooms are exceedingly handsome and well-furnished — 
large armoires ; mirrors against the walls, of course ; and lustres, 
or many-dropped chandeliers, from the ceilings. The floors cov- 
ered with French carpets ; the bedsteads of brass, with musquito 
curtains. French ormolu clocks ; Austrian furniture, which 
should be marked " fragile," covered with damask ; rich curtains, 
badly hung, and sometimes hooked back on common iron staples 
driven into the walls ; marble-topped washstands and chests 
of drawers ; tables with exquisite cut-glass service, Jleur d" orange 
water, sugar for eau sucre, scent flasks, and last, not least, small 
bottles of ammonia to assuage the pangs of insect bites, if haply 
such there were. There are some very fine objects from the 
Great Exhibition of 1867 in the rooms. Late as it was, the 
table was taid, and dinner was served with creditable alacrity. 
Then came coffee, pipes, and bed. I believe we lodge in the 
very rooms where but a short while ago Zuleika, Hanoum, Fati- 
ma, and others, lorded and ladied it supreme. All the ladies of 
the household have gone off to some other viceregal retreat ; but 
I am not quite sure of the point, and do not care to ask. Any- 
way, the palace would delight St. Kevin. It is perhaps a little 
too near the river for the safety of the walls, but the situation 
affords agreeable prospects. The suite, servants and all, were 
lodged without any difficulty within the walls. Musquitoes were 
" out of season," but some of the Royal party declared other 
things were " in," and one sufferer cried aloud and spared not. 

October 24. — Early in the morning the black-coated servitors, 
each with red fez on his head, badge of public or State employ, 
began their scurrying work along the corridors — not noiselessly. 
They are the housemaids of the Palace. They are of all races, 
and are supposed to speak French or Italian. 

The prospect from the Palace windows is exceedingly inter- 
esting. There is the money-making muddy river beneath you, 
and along yonder bank a selvage of Nile boats, with naked masts 
and long lateen yards triced to the top ; a broad belt of houses, 
such as can only be seen in Cairo, above the roofs of which — 



THE PALACE OF GEZIREH. 55 

se6n through a golden haze, which is but the fine dust raised by 
the slippers and feet of the multitude, and lighted by the rays of 
the sun — rise the minarets of mosques in the incongruous com- 
pany of factory chimneys. Further still, towards the east and 
south, the rock, on which stands the Citadel, and the slender 
minarets and dome of the Great Mosque come out high and 
clear, and the barren shelves of many-colored rock of the Great 
Mokattan ridge trending towards the Nile. The Nile is now 
almost bank-full ; it is rushing past my windows at such a rate 
that the country-boats, with their vast sails bellying out with the 
strong breath of the north wind, can but just stem its stream. 
The Palace of Gezireh abuts on the left bank of the river, which 
swirls and gurgles against the buttresses of the garden wall, 
and circles in deep, eddying pools in the angles of the em- 
bankments, to the great joy of the catfish and other Siluroids, 
which rise heavily at pieces of bread and floating offal. At the 
other side of the river lies Boulak, which is called the Port of 
Cairo, but which is part of the city all the same. The ruins of 
houses in the stream, the overhanging banks, the ends of walls, 
and the masses of masonry rising out of the current, show how 
destructive the river is in some of its moods. When the Nile 
is at its highest it does much harm, and it is mischievous even 
when it does most good. There is no solid basis for masonry to 
be found till the rock, some forty feet below the great alluvial 
bed, has been reached, and few can afford the expense of laying 
such deep foundations. The weakness of the Grand Barrage, a 
magnificent work which few visitors to Cairo ever visit, is mainly 
due to the want of an adequate tcoo (ttcH, and the difficulty of 
finding that essential has much increased the cost of bridging 
the river, and of building near it. 

The air is delicious, as it generally is at this period of the 
year, and until the sun gained power after noon there could not 
be a more perfect day. Breakfast was laid out with a great 
pomp of plate, exquisite fruit and flowers on fine ejfergnes, the 
beautiful china service made expressly for the Khedive, in one 
of the saloons on the drawing-floor, looking out on the Nile. 



56 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

The servants in the Viceroy's fine livery, which is not sparing of 
gold lace, were Frenchmen, and they were directed by higher 
officials, also French, in black Stambouli coats and fez caps. 
From the breakfast-room, which contains two good pictures and 
a couple of busts, one of the Khedive, and a noble piece of 
marble work as a chimney-piece at one end, there is but a step 
to the saloon leading to the Great Hall of Audience, the win- 
dows of which open on the balcony overlooking the main en- 
trance and the garden. This saloon is furnished with splendor; 
richly-gilt divans and easy chairs, marble-topped tables, &c., are 
placed round the sides. A group of chiboukjees, in the unvary- 
ing fez and black suit of frock, vest, and trousers, stood apart at 
one of the doors ; and at a signal these, demure and noiseless, 
appeared with coffee in exquisite little wafer china cups, placed 
in golden holders, set with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. 
Then they brought in long pipes, ready lighted, and there were 
few who refused the luxury of a fragrant whiff of tobacco, which 
seems necessary to the full enjoyment of the East. The fresh 
air and the perfume of the flowers tempted some to the balcony. 
Beneath it were pacing the sentries of the Khedive's Foot Guards, 
tall, broad, if flat-backed, Egyptians, clad in white, — gaiters, 
breeches, tunic, gloves, all white,— save the red fez, the swarthy 
face, and the black belts. The French postilions, in jack-boots 
and buckskins, laced blue and scarlet jackets, red vests, shining 
oilskin hats, with Viceregal cockades and powdered "bobs," 
were lounging by the steps — the very reproduction of the men, 
if not the men themselves, whom one saw riding the pecherons 
of the Imperial Court when Fleury and St. Meurice ruled the 
equipages. There was not a sound except the grating of the 
sentries' shoes on the gravel, and the screams of the peacocks 
from the aviary. Just outside the carriage-sweep begins the 
sward of the garden, in which there are a menagerie, artificial 
lakes and ponds, rocks, cascades, and clumps, of trees and flowers. 
The garden is bounded on the right by the river, and on the left 
by a wall, beyond which lies the level spread of irrigated and 
cultivated land up to the foot of the Desert, guarded by the 



SUNDAY IN CAIRO. 57 

Pyramids of Gizeh. At 11.30 a.m. the Prince and his suite and 
servants assembled in the Saloon of Audience for Divine service. 
The Rev. Canon Duckworth read the prayers and lessons for 
the day to the little congregation. As the* words of Christian 
thanksgiving and prayer came from the clergyman's lips, " O ! 
Praise the Lord, all ye heathen ; Praise Him all ye nations ! " 
we heard the grating tramp of the Mohammedan sentinels and the 
Arabic commands of the officer relieving guard below. When 
service was over, the Prince went out in one of the Viceroy's 
open carriages to the other side of the Nile, to visit the Viceroy 
at the Palace of Abdeen, and to see the Princes of his family at 
Kasr-er-Nil. He was in uniform, for it was a ceremonial visit. 
In his absence, there was full leisure for those who were not de- 
tained in the Palace to go to Cairo, and carriages were in readi- 
ness for any who wanted them. It was only necessary to send 
some of the Longjumeau postilions for one, and it was at the 
door in a few moments. There was a very ample lunch at two 
o'clock, which caused Dr. Fayrer some anxiety, but with the 
certainty of a State banquet at the Palace of Abdeen at seven 
o'clock, forbearance was a duty which forced itself on the un- 
derstanding of the most reckless. A State banquet at the Vice- 
roy's is a very serious matter ; " no expense is spared," and we 
may be certain those who have to make the charges are not over 
ready to cry, " Hold ! enough ! " 

When the Prince returned from his afternoon visits it was 
almost time to dress for dinner at the Viceroy's. There was an 
escort of cavalry for the cortege of the Prince from one palace 
to the other, and the road was illuminated all the way by lamps 
and pans of fire. The road from the Palace of Gezireh to the 
Iron Plridge runs parallel to the stream, from which it is only 
separated by a narrow belt of low land, which is partially inun- 
dated. On the other side are the Viceroy's Horticultural Gar- 
dens and Conservatories. The road" is an elevated causeway — 
a dyke with a broad top^ in fact — and is bordered by trees, 
which although they have not been very long planted, afford a 
pleasant shade. The great bridge is a very noble work indeed ; 

3* 



58 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

and as one sees the dense streams of camels, donkeys, carts, 
and pedestrians which throng it, moving to and from the city, 
the wonder suggests itself how they did, or managed to live 
without it. The suburb between the Iron Bridge' and the Hez- 
bekieh is undergoing a surprising change. It was once covered 
with miserable sheds, narrow lanes of tumble-down Egyptian 
houses and waste patches, filled with heaps of refuse, and here 
and there cultivated plots a few yards square. The houses have 
been pulled down, the lanes no longer exist. Fine streets, well 
lighted with handsome lamps and bordered by trees, run in 
converging lines towards the Opera House. Charming villas 
and detached houses, in the French and Italian style, have been 
finished, or are in course of erection, along the course of the pro- 
jected thoroughfares. Verily this Egypt is still a land of won- 
ders ! The new rooms of the Abdeen Palace are not merely 
viceregal but imperial in number, size, and decoration, and the 
Banqueting-room is worthy of any Court in Europe. To outward 
appearance the Khedive's Court is at least royal. On his ser- 
vice, carriages, &c., there is the likeness of a kingly crown ; his 
State is regal ; the Consular persons accredited to him are Min- 
isters in all but name ; and salaries, and the charges de la Coiir, 
are on a scale worthy of a considerable Power. But all that is 
maintained for a purpose — not from any personal love of splen- 
dor and luxury, for no one is better pleased with a simple, quiet 
life than Ismael Pasha. He is very happy when he can get out 
of gold-laced coats, put his jewelled scimetar and sash away ; 
slip on his black Stamboulee coat, easy shoes, and sit down with 
a friend in a quiet corner for a little conversation, which on his 
side is always original and fresh, and is sustained by the aid of 
cigarettes, of which his Highness keeps a store for himself and 
his friends in his breast coat-pocket. To Europeans he speaks 
French, to his secretaries and to those who wait on him he 
generally addresses Turkish, and to the Egyptians he talks in 
Arabic. His powers of calculation are extraordinary, his con- 
ception rapid, his memory acute, and his love of work inexhaust- 
ible. He has a fair fund of anecdote, and appreciates a joke 



THE KHEDIVE. 59 

most thoroughly, for all his Turkish gravity. As an instance of 
his sagacity and foresight, it is related that when he returned to 
Cairo after his visit to England and France, he expressed the 
strongest opinion that a " war with Prussia was intended, or at 
least was inevitable, and that the Emperor, who then seemed at 
the summit of his splendor and power, was on the verge of a 
precipice." To the Prince of Wales he seems to have a very 
strong regard and liking, and he does all he can to contribute to 
his Royal Highness' enjoyment. The Viceroy stood with his 
sons and officers of State, and received the Prince at the entrance 
of the Palace. He was in State uniform, with riband and orders, 
but the effect of the fine lace-embroidery in which Turkish uni- 
forms excel is greatly diminished by the ugly simplicity of the 
fez. A guard of honor was drawn up in the court. The stair- 
case was lined with Albanians and the various valetaiUe of an 
Oriental Court. When the Khedive, leading the Prince to the 
Hall of Audience, had taken his place, the new-comers were 
presented to him. There can be no more agreeable manner than 
that of the Viceroy ; he was particularly affable to the English 
as well as to those with whom he was acquainted — the Duke of 
Sutherland, Lord Alfred Paget, Lord Carrington and others. 
With very few exceptions, every one in Government employment 
speaks French, and the old French leaven which once turned all 
things Egyptian into French is still working and still powerful. 
That influence, indeed, is well justified when such a man as M. 
Mariette represents it. The Viceroy's physician, M. Bourgieres, 
is one of the most agreeable and lively of companions, and has 
the reputation of great skill in his profession. To their com- 
prtiots are due mainly the beautification of Cairo, the Opera 
House, the creation of scientific institutes, and the promotion of 
learned societies in the capital and in Alexandria, which have done 
so much for Egyptian history, and for the cultivation of litera- 
ture and philosophy. There were some European ladies, the 
wives of Consular personages or of Europeans in Egyptian em- 
ploy, present at the dinner ; but the civilization of the Khedive's 
Native Court does not go so far as yet as the threshold of the 



60 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

door of the Temple sacred to Woman's Rights. The " Shriek- 
ing Sisterhood " of the Moslem demand not to be driven out of, 
but to be let stay in the harem and in seclusion. Mohammedan 
women think they exercise more influence over mankind by hav- 
ing their children and husbands all to themselves, when they see 
them in familiar intercourse, than they would possess if they 
were to enjoy the sad liberty of being flattered by every one. 

Later in the evening the Viceroy and Nubar Pasha had a long 
conversation with Sir B. Frere and General Stanton. The repu- 
diation by Turkey of the conditions upon which she contracted 
such heavy loans naturally causes a lively emotion at Cairo. It 
is evident that underlying all the reticence which a personage in 
this condition is obliged to maintain, the Viceroy thinks the fune- 
ral knell of the Sick Man is likely soon to sound if the Powers 
do not take heed to his case. And what next.-* yam proximus 
ardet. Nubar Pasha gave the most emphatic assurances that the 
finances of Egypt were in a sound state, and that she was quite 
able to pay her way ; but he foresees that the acts of the Sultan's 
Government will very much depreciate Egyptian credit, and favor 
combinations against it. The articles in the English press attack- 
ing Egyptian budgets, and the general distrust of Government 
statements evinced in London, were spoken of ; and the Khedive 
broached the idea of applying through General Stanton to the 
British Government for the services of an experienced officer of 
the Treasury to investigate the public accounts and examine the 
financial system, and he expressed the utmost confidence in the 
result. Sir B. Frere approved of the notion. Mr. C. Pennell 
and Mr. Acton, two gentlemen formerly in the Treasury, are now 
engaged by the Khedive as heads of financial departments. The 
tendency in Egypt is certainly to accept England as her guide in 
finance, at all events.* But there were still graver matters to 
discuss. The insurrection in the Herzegovina gives rise to the 
deepest anxiety. The expenses of the war are enormous, and if 
it be long protracted, Turkey will be crushed into the lowest 

* It may be taken for granted that the origin of Mr. Cave's mission dated from this 
conversation. 



THE STAR OF INDIA. 6 1 

depths 01 insolvency. The dread which is felt of European in- 
tervention, and of a joint partition of the Dead Man's effects, is 
not disguised. " And in that case will England take charge of 
Egypt } " The Khedive, indeed, did not ask the question or 
suggest it ; but it was asked, and the subject was discussed ; and 
when some one said, " England will probably await the march 
of events," a Minister exclaimed, "Without any policy ? Without 
any attempt to direct it ? Ce/a vous portera plus loin que vous 
ne croyezJ' It was vary interesting to observe the small group 
talking in a corner so gravely, whilst the crowd of officers and 
courtiers, clouted with orders and blazing with gold lace, moved 
about the brilliant saloon chatting and laughing, amidst a great 
clatter of plate and glass, and the servants passed in perpetual 
procession with refreshments. The Prince returned to Gezireh 
in the same state as he came, and there was a line of lights, which 
made the road from Abdeen to the Palace as clear as day. 

October 25 — At 11 a.m. the Prince inspected the arrange- 
ments which had been made for the investiture of Prince Tewfik, 
the Viceroy's eldest son, with the Order of the Star of India. In 
one of the very handsome apartments of the Palace, chairs of 
state were arranged, and the insignia of the Order to be confer- 
red were placed upon a marble table. The 3d Battalion of the 
Egyptian Guards formed up outside the Palace, and lined the 
way from the gate to the steps of the Entrance Hall. The Vice- 
roy's orderly officers remained outside. Shortly before half-past 
twelve, the trumpets announced the arrival of the Viceregal cor- 
tege, which came up in great state, with an escort of smart-looking 
cavalry, vthe Viceroy, his sons and ministers, in full uniform, 
blazing with jewels and gold lace. Two of the Prince's aides- 
de-camp received his Highness at the steps, and led him to the 
Prince, who stood at the foot of the grand staircase, with the Duke 
of Sutherland on his left, and Sir Bartle Frere on his right, the 
other members of the suite lining the hall at each side from the 
entrance to the staircase. The Prince wore a Field-Marshal's 
uniform, the Duke of Sutherland the Riband of the Garter, and 
Sir Bartle Frere the insignia of the Star cf India ; the suite were 



62 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

in full dress. The Prince, having shaken hands with the Vice- 
roy, led him upstairs, and thence through the two state-rooms to 
the Saloon, where the investiture was to take place. Dr. Fayrer, 
who was assisted by General Probyn and Colonel Ellis, read the 
warrant, under the sign-manual of the Secretary of State, by or- 
der of the Queen, for the investiture. The Prince of Wales 
standing, iddressed Prince Tewfik, with great dignity, in the fol- 
lowing words : — 

'* Sir,— I consider it a high privilege, a high duty, and it is a great gratifi- 
cation to myself personally, to be able, in the presence of your Highness, to 
carry out the commands of Her Majesty the Queen, who has charged me with 
the duty of investing you with the ensigns of the Order of the Star of India. 
It is not the most ancient of our English Orders, but it is one highly valued by 
us for the distinction it confers on those to whom it is granted for their services 
in India. The Queen has determined to confer this especial mark of consider- 
ation. Sir, for yourself and family, because of the good-will Her Majesty bears 
towards His Highness the Khedive, himself a member of the Order, who has 
always shown himself a true friend to the English nation, and has done so 
much to promote the safety and convenience of our communication between 
England and India, in facilitating the transit of our troops and commerce. I 
trust that in fulfilling this charge with which the Queen has intrusted me I may 
be adding another link to strengthen the bonds of friendship which already 
exist between England and Egypt." 

The Viceroy, who seemed to feel the honor conferred upon 
his house, and spoke with emotion, turned toward the Prince, 
and said : — 

" Monseigneur ! Je suis profondement louche du temoignage et de I'hon- 
neur que Sa Majeste la Reine a confers a toute ma famille en daignant nommer 
mon fils Grand Commandeur de'l'Ordre illustre de I'Etoile des Indes. Par 
une delicatesse qui rend sa faveur royale encore plus precieuse a mes yeux, 
Elle a daigne charger Votre Altesse Royale de conferer elle-meme les insignes 
de rOrdre a mon fils, afin de temoigner a tout mon pays que Votre Altesse 
Royale partage les sentiments que sa Gracieuse Majeste veut nous porter. 
Recevez, Monseigneur, mes plus vifs remerciments. Recevez-les encore pour 
vous etre souvenu que, sur la route de votre Empire des Indes, il se trouve un 
pays qui s'est toujours vu encourager, par le Gouvernement de Sa Majeste' et 
la nation anglaise, dans la voie du progres et de la liberte commercial. 
L'honneur confere a mon fils, la pre'sence de Votre Altesse Royale, seront. 



THE PYRAMIDS. 63 

croyez-moi, Monseigneur, pour moi, ma famille et pour mon pays, le plus grand 
encouragement pour perseverer dans cette voie." 

The Prince of Wales then taking the Riband of the Order 
from the cushion, on which it was held by General Probyn, pass- 
ed it over Prince Tewfik's neck, and fastened the Collar over his 
shoulders. The Prince expressed his great sense of such a sig- 
nal mark of Her Majesty's favor in a few graceful words, and the 
Viceroy took leave and went off, as he had come, in state, with his ' 
sons and ministers. Then came a change of dress not at all disa- 
greeable, and mufti was the order of the day for lunch at Major- 
General Stanton's. There was a tremendous clamor of donkey- 
boys outside the house ; for to enjoy Cairo a donkey-ride is, for the 
traveller, no matter h ow distinguished or illustrious he be, — that is, 
if he likes it, — a sine qua non. The Viceroy relates even now, with 
a comic mixture of me Timent and horror, how the Empress-Eugenie 
compelled him once upon a time to mount one of these useful ani- 
mals, and to exhibit himself to the utter amazement of his sub- 
jects, in the full light of day, tearing full speed down the main 
street of the bazaar. 

It is now full Bairam time ; but the Prince, nevertheless, man- 
aged to do a great deal in the way of shopping and purchases, 
and returned at half past four o'clock to the Consular head-quar- 
ters, where six of the Viceroy's chars-a-bancs and carriages were 
in waiting to take hi \\ and party to the Pyramids. The chars-a- 
bancs ^qx& drawn by six- pecherons, ridden by postilions in the 
old Imperial style, jack-boots, gold-laced coats, leather breeches, 
glazed hats and coc'cades. The road, in spite of all the pre- 
vious watering, was very dusty, for the party was a little late ; 
and ere the carriages emerged from the shady avenue of trees, 
which now extends more than half-way to the Pyramids, the sun 
was setting in a dull haze behind the desert outline beyond Gez- 
ireh. There was a crowd of at least a thousand people, men and 
women, in Frank clothing, — Paris bonnets, gay coats and umbrel- 
las, and all the accessories of civilized attire, — clustered round 
the Chalet in which the Prince was to dine ; and there was an 
immense gathering of the Arabs with their well-known Sheiks, 



64 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

whose mission it is to seize on the unwary traveller and carry 
him up to the topmost row of the masonry which is piled above 
old Cheops. These poor Pyramids ! How commonplace they 
are becoming ! Dinner over there was a dance by a party of 
Ghawazee, or Egyptian dancing girls (for whom see Lane's " Mod- 
ern Egyptians"), — ^' girls " by courtesy, — stumpy gypsy women, 
voluminously clothed from the waist downwards ; bare arms 
loaded with bracelets ; thick, coarse black hair, heavy with gold 
coins ; posturing, quivering, and sliding to and fro on their pret- 
ty feet, to the clatter of "the metal castanets and bangles, and to 
the monotonous but not unmusical sound of the native orchestra 
which accompanied them. The heat in the Chalet was rather 
trying, and the company were probably not loth to leave the dance 
4ind go outside, where there was a strange weird exhibition, 
which, notwithstanding revulsion of aesthetical feeling, will prob- 
ably be repeated on all similar occasions till the Pyramids be- 
come nothing more than stands for fixed pieces like those at the 
Crystal Palace or the Alexandra Park. But it must be admitted 
that Cheops prepared a very grand and extensive site for these 
displays. First, the Great Pyramid was illuminated by rows of 
blue lights along the layers of the masonry ; next, flights of rock- 
ets were let off from the sides and summit, and from the base, 
many of which flew high above it, and let fall a rain of stars ; then 
came red and blue lights, then pans of saltpetre at the angles of 
the Pyramid were ignited and threw up a peculiar bluish flame 
on the faces of the Arabs who superintended the feux d' artifice^ 
causing the most extraordinary contrasts j but it soon died away, 
and was succeeded by red and yellow and green flames. The 
glare was blinding. When the lights flashed on the sea of up- 
turned faces and of white-turbaned heads, the effect was suffi- 
ciently striking to justify such a use of the Pyramids — at least so 
it seemed to most people. The Prince stood amongst the crowd, 
who seemed very much interested in observing in what way he 
took the fireworks, which, however, were no novelty to him. One 
little maiden, after a long consultation with the members of her 
family, stole timidly up to the Prince to request that he would 



THE PYRAMIDS. 65 

allow her to shake him by the hand, to which he laughingly as- 
sented. She said she was " Kate Bachelor from the United 
States ;" and she returned in the highest state of satisfaction to 
the bosom of her family. Darkness stole, or rather dropped all 
of a sudden, over the Pyramid, and the Royal party were whirled 
back again to Cairo, not without some risk of contretemps on the. 
road, because it was difficult to avoid the vehicles — ships of the 




ILLUMINATION OF THE GREAT PYRAMID. 

desert and others — which thronged it ; but the Prince got back 
in time to drive to the Palace, change his dress, and see part of 
the piece " Les Trente Millions de Gladiator " admirably played 
at the Opera House by the French Company. The Khedive 
was waiting to receive him, and there was a very full house : but 
I believe most people v/ere rather glad when the curtain dropped, 
and it was time to retire and drive back to Gezireh to bed. 

October 26. — Much interest is taken in the Prince's voyage 

S 



66 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

in Cairo. It seems to many people a strange and wonderful 
thing that he, who has so much at home to love and care for, 
should go out to a distant land in search of doubtful pleasures ; 
but there are some who quite appreciate his motives, and the 
Viceroy especially is struck" with the enterprise. Cherif Pasha, 
M'ho is a devoted sportsman, would gladly resign office to have 
a chance of killing the tigers and other wild beasts, of which he 
has heard, and sadly resigns himself to quail and snipe. Nubar 
Pasha ponders over the haute politique of the situation ; others 
deal with the considerations which render India interesting to 
Egyptians, for there is a great fear that, in case of the Sick Man's 
immediate dissolution, Egypt would be treated as a part of his 
estate, and that England would claim it as her share by rever- 
sionary interest. The Egyptians would not, perhaps, cry their 
eyes out if the Turk were to die ; but they fear very much that 
in a faction fight over his grave their own little property might 
be appropriated. They would like nothing better than a kind of 
International Commission to regulate the finances of the Empire, 
and to act as physicians to cure the patient of the most fatal of 
the diseases by which Ije is menaced. Talking of the East one 
of our Egyptian friends on the platform said, " I doubt, after all, 
whether you will do much better at Calcutta than at Cairo. They 
have no opera there ; we have one of the best in the world. They 
have no ballet ; except Vienna, we have got the best. The cli- 
mate is abominable ; ours, at least at this time of the year, de- 
lightful. The cooking is, I am told, but middling ; ours is first- 
rate, at least I hope you found it so. Their wine is bad ; we 
intercept the best champagne and claret on its way. They have 
no tobacco worth smoking. Why go'there ? " When he was told 
there were others things to live for besides these, he said, " I 
daresay there are ; but I don't know any people who like them 
better. As to seeing ryots, we can show you fellahs ; and there 
is no form of Government which you have in India which you 
cannot study to better advantage up the Nile." 

After breakfast there was much bustle in the corridors of the 
Gezireh Palace, for there was need to send on the baggage in 



ROYAL PRESENTS. 6/ 

advance to the station, which is half an hour's drive, away at the 
other side of the river. Then there was a gathering in the great 
ante-room of the officers and others, to whom the Prince desired 
to give souvenirs ; these were introduced, one after the other, to 
his presence, and were sent away with a pleasant speech, a shake 
of the hand, and a cadeau. 

" Great are the charges of him who keeps another's wealth." 
When the Prince of Wales leaves the Court of one in Royal or 
distinguished place who has lodged him and his following, those 
who have to distribute the souvenirs of his visit have much of 
which to think. Photographs and portraits for. those in high 
position ; snuff-boxes, rings, pins, watches and chains, arms — 
lorgnettes, and then haply the solid rouleaux, which represent the 
"gratifications," called baksheesh by the Oriental vulgar — these 
must be taken out of the Treasury, and marked off, and ticketed, 
and appropriated. The Prince gives his presents in genre with 
his own Royal hands — the specie is distributed by humbler 
agencies. 

The outward world knows little, and probably does not care 
to know, how great are the troubles and cares which weigh on the 
inner life of those around the great. Everything appears to the 
public eye to go so smoothly and well that no anxiety is mani-. 
fested to learn how it is all done. There is the Serapis^ splen- 
did in white paint and gold, obedient as a well-trained steed to 
to the rider's hand. What need to dive into the engine-room and 
^see how the machinery is regulated .? When the Prince of Wales 
comes or goes, everything for his coming or going seems as if it 
happened in the order of nature ; but could one only see the 
anxious faces, and the calculations, and. the consultations, and 
the pre-arrangements, he would be able to judge how far those 
who are hidden behind the folds of the Purple have to do with 
the arrangements for its complete effect. 

The Khedive, the Princes his sons, and his ministers, visited 
the Prince at one o'clock, and took leave of him, although they 
were to meet him at the station to see him off with all honor. We 
were sitting enjoying the early chibook (spell it any way you 



6S THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

please) after lunch,when the Khedive was announced, and every 
one hurried off. His Highness and his suite were in plain 
clothes. The Prince received him at the top of the staircase, and 
after a few moments' conversation they retired into the Prince's 
antechamber. Presently there came a summons for one of the 
suite, and he obeying it, returned with a broad green and red rib- 
bon and Badge, and men knew that he had received from tlie 
hands of the Khedive the decoration of the Medjidie. To do 
the Prince honor, these decorations were conferred with no spar- 
ing hand. There were some who had already received the hon- 
or, and these were advanced in dignity ; but those who had it 
not were decorated each in degree. 

At 2. ID P.M. the Prince was at the Railway Station with the 
Viceroy and all his house, and there, with many kind speeches 
and friendly expressions, he took leave of his Highness. When 
the Prince was leaving, the sons of the Viceroy proposed to accom- 
pany him, but his Royal Highness would not hear of it ; "it was 
a long journey," he said, " and he felt quite sensible of their kind- 
ness." It would appear that there was a real friendship be- 
tween the Viceroy and the Prince, and they parted with cordial 
manifestations of good-will. General Stanton, Nubar Pasha, 
Mustapha Pasha, and others accompanied the Prince, and once 
more the great American saloon carriages were under way 
rattling towards Suez. The journey was hot and dusty. 

At Zagazig the special train halted for ten minutes, and the 
staff of vice-regal servants passed up and down the carriages with 
ices, fruits, champagne, soda-water, and such like luxuries, and 
informed us at the same time that there was a complete dinner, 
with a staff of servants, cooks, &c., ready in the train, and that 
it could be laid upon the table in half an hour. From Zagazig 
the train sped on through the land of Goshen, and an hour ere 
reaching Suez the sun set, round as a shield, falling abruptly as a 
red-hot shot beyond the verge of the desert, and leaving us in 
darkness. The train was due at 7 p.m., and it wanted but a few 
minutes of that time when it ran through the Suez station, where 
great crowds had collected from the ships in the harbor, and 



SUEZ. 



69 



from the teeming bazaar, who cheered and yelled as the special 
dashed past towards the pier. Then, looking seawards, the wel- 
come lights of the Se?'apis and the Osborne shone their welcome 
over the water. The Egyptian men-of-war, with masts, yards, 
and sides brightly illuminated, formed striking objects in the road- 
stead. Rows of soldiers with blazing torches lighted up the 
landing-place, where the Pacha of Suez, the officers of the port, 
and a guard of Egyptian infantry were waiting to conduct his 
Royal Highness on board the tender which was to take him off 
to the ship. It was some time before the baggage, which had 
filled six fourgons at Cairo, could be transferrred on board the 
Serapis ; and as the Prince was going off, Mr. Gibbs, Superin- 
tendent of Telegraphs, handed in a Telegram with the news in 
London up to 2 o'clock that day, and the name of the winner of 
the Cambridgeshire, which had been run a few hours before. O 
visiting the saloon it was felt that the Red Sea was not far oiT 




"THE PUNKAH." 



70 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

and the punkahs over the dinner table were set in motion for the 
first time. It was found that the sweep of the punkah was rather 
too low, and when the Prince stood up to give the health of the 
Queen, in accordance with custom, he was obliged to stand on 
one side till the living machinery on deck could be induced to 
stop their monotonous labors. When everything was ready, 
Nubar Pasha, Mustapha Pasha, General Stanton, and the other 
officers and officials took leave, and were conveyed on shore ; and 
presently, amidst a general illumination, discharges of rockets, 
and cheers, the screw of the Serapis sent her ahead, and the 
Prince of Wales was steaming down the Sea of Jubal for India. 




ADEN. — SOMALI BOY CHASED BY A POLICEMAN 

CHAPTER III. 

SUEZ TO ADEN, AND ADEN TO BOMBAY. 

Sinai — The Red Sea — A visit Below — Bed and Board — ^'Aden — Landing of 
the Prince — Arab Sultans — The Aden Address — Turks in Arabia — The 
first Levee — Sultan of Lahej's Petition — The " Hanging-tanks " — -Exiles 
in Aden — Subsidized Chiefs — Something wrong Below — rrogramme for 
Southern India modified— Guy Fawkes at Sea — A Sunday's Routine — Ap- 
proaching Bombay — Anticipations in India. 

October 27. — ^The dawn found the Serapis "^ith. the constant 
Osborne in company at a regulation distance, running at the rate 
of twelve knots an hour, afterwards increased to thirteen, out of 
the narrow straits of Jubal into the wider expanse of the Red 
Sea. We have shipped multitudes of Egyptian flies ; the most 
daring, active, and aggressive of their pestilent race, and they 
make the early morning hideous. There was a fond but erron- 
eous belief entertained by some of the suite that they had seen 
Sinai soon after sunrise, but the identity of the sacred mountain 
does not seem to be well established, and the peak which is 

7» 



72 

generally thought to be Sinai is hidden from view by the outer 
ridges of the chain. At i p.m. the Peninsular and Oriental 
Company's steamer Peshawur^ bound for Suez, came close up, 
with yards manned handsomely, all her passengers on deck wav- 
ing hats and handkerchiefs, and crew cheering lustily. The 
Serapis stopped ; a boat was lowered and manned ; the Pe- 
sJiawur lay to, and for a moment it was thought that a mail 
for England would be sent on board her; but the letters were 
not quite ready; and so, after a sLort exchange of courtesies, 
the ships — to the great relief of Captain Glyn, who was appre- 
hensive of the effects of any avoidable delay — proceeded on their 
respective courses, the band of the Serapis playing " Home ! 
Sweet Home ! " the Peshawur saluting the Prince's standard 
with lowered ensign, and the passengers and crew again huzza- 
ing lustily. The Prince stood on the bridge, and acknowledged 
the compliment and these marks of respect by touching his cap 
and by repeated bows till the steamers went ahead full speed. 
The quarter-deck substitute for lawn tennis was tried with great 
success in the afternoon, but, in spite of the awning, it was 
warm work, for the sun was tyrannous and strong — 82° in the 
sliade. The library was a great comfort for those who had 
leisure to read, and the charts, laid out on the table, and relief 
maps were diligently studied. By the time we reach India most 
of us will probably know something more of the Empire and of 
its history than we did before. The excellent band of the Royal 
Marines under Mr. Kreyer practises for an hour at i i a.m., plays 
at lunch from 2 till 3 p.m., and at dinner (7.30 till 8.30 p.m.), 
and often for an hour or two later, so that there is no want of 
delightful music ; but it must be confessed that, with all these 
means of enjoyment, the high temperature and the general 
montony of life at sea tend to promote slumber at unusual 
times. ^* 

October 28. — A profound calm during the night ; but a gen- 
tle breeze sprung up after daylight. At 4.10 a.m. we passed 
Dadalus Shoal and its disconsolate Light-house, rising on a 
kind of gridiron frame above the sad sea wave. There were 



ARABIA DESERTA. 73 

signs of life in the upper story, and a flag was flung out from 
the staff. It was erected by the Egyptian Government, which 
has done the liditino: of its coasts in an admirable manner. 
All ports open. It is not easy to sleep in the early morning — 
the sun rises on my side of the ship, which, as the world is 
ordered, is quite inevitable, for I am on the port side, and we 
are steering East ; but it is unpleasant, like many other inevit- 
able things. Out of the port I see far away the land of which 
we know so little — not much more than we do of Central Africa, 
although Arabia is inhabited by one of the most ancient, inter- 
esting and indomitable races in the world, and is the birth-place 
of the founder of a faith which alone of all creeds shows no 
sign of receding before Christianity. They are still fierce and 
proud — it may be said they are the only Eastern nation which 
does notfcar the power of Europe, or hold Europeans in some 
sort of respect. Woe to any white man who lifts his hand to an 
Arab, or shoves him to make place in the streets of Jeddah ! 
" See, extending from the Euphrates southwards, the vast coun- 
try, washed by four seas, touching Europe (if we admit Syria to 
belong naturally to the Peninsula), Africa, and Asia — left alto- 
gether to barbarism because there is no gain to be had out of 
it ! No one cares for the Arabs save the Turks, and their 
solicitude is to subdue the people. They are passed by and 
neglected by all the world. Where are the Christian missions 
in Arabia ? Where are the schools } Look at the map, and see 
a space nearly as large as Europe, with the m ark of our ignor- 
ance upon it, ' Desert from Mecca to Oman.' I don't believe 
it ? " At this stage I am interrupted by my early marine with a 
cup of coffee, and soon the ship awakes, electric bells ring, 
" Tom Fat " [s summoned by my neighbor, servan.ts are roused 
out from the depths of what the subalterns call Pandemonium, 
baths are ordered, quaint figures flit about in light attire, paying 
a round of visits from hammock to berth. *' Well ! How did 
you sleep, old fellow ? " "I never was so hot in all my life." 
There never were more pleasant or more agreeable companions. 
There is still, in spite of the heat, a gymnastic performance 



74 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

about tubbing time, in which Dr. Fayrer and Canon Duckworth 
lead the exercises — simple evolutions with mugdahs, or Indian 
clubs, of which sets of different weights and sizes were sent on 
board by the dockyard people. Sometimes the Prince takes 
what is called "a cruise " between decks before breakfast, and 
visits the cabins to see how every one is going on. At noon we 
were inside the tropics (lat. 23^ 39' n., long. 35^ 46' e.). The 
thermometer in the cabins marked Si'^, but owing to a following 
wind from the north, the want of ventilation made the heat seem 
greater. There were sixteen Arabs shipped at Suez to aid the 
seventy European firemen as coal clippers, but they did not 
stand the heat below (146^) as well as the latter. Hearing that 
the stokehole was considered to be very hot, his Royal High- 
ness paid it a visit. The Duke of Sutherland was of course one 
of the party. The black and grimy stokers, who were interrupt- 
ed for a moment in their labor to make way for strangers, were 
evidently delighted and gratified when they saw the Prince, in 
the full glare of the fires, in their midst. Having inspected the 
shaft-gallery, and had a good look all round down below, the 
Prince ascended to the main-deck in a state of very considerable 
perspiration. Some honey-birds and a kestrel were shot, and 
the gig was lowered and sent off to pick up the latter, which 
went astern at a great pace — or rather, was left behind very 
rapidly till the ship stopped. By the time the bird was found, 
the gig was some miles away from the Serapis. The Osborne 
gave the boat a tow ; but it was an hour before we were going 
ahead again. In the evening there was an amateur concert and 
reading in the little theatre on the quarter-deck, and several of the 
blue-jackets acquitted themselves very well. Captain Glyn acts as 
Lord Chamberlain s reader of plays and dramatic censor, but 
the melodious captain of the forecastle, on the spur of an encore, 
slipped m an impromptu which caused immense delight to the 
pit and gallery. It was not, however, at all objectionable. It 
was merely meant to be a^ittle satirical, and chiefly dealt with 
the expedition of the gig's crew after the hawk, for which the 
sea name appears to be " nanny-wiper." 



HEAT EXHAUSTION. 75 

October 29. — At 10 a.m., the thermometer marked Zt,""^ wet 
bulb, 79° ; temperature of sea, 86 ; specific gravity, 1.0030 ; 
wind s. w. Dr. Fayrer was summoned to attend several cases 
of " heat exhaustion." Ice and brandy-and-water are specifics 
for most of these. The domestics on the lower deck, where the 
bull's-eyes cannot be kept open, were considerably affected. As 
the day wore on the heat increased, and gradually stole over one 
like sleep. Starboard at least i'' hotter than port side. The 
paint in the cabins has become clammy. This state of things 
developed a display of energy and latent power in the suite 
after noon which was quite astonishing. The beds and bed- 
steads in the cabins were unanimously voted to be a mistake. 
They were *' stuffy," and, moreover, having been filled in a hurry 
with feathers which had not been properly dried, they were not 
sweet smelling ; and they were cleared out vi et annis by their 
occupants. The leader in the work of destruction was " the 
author of their being," so to speak, for he it was who ordered 
them, or approved of them, when the vessel was being fitted up. 
In fact, they were not fit for the Red Sea ; and although they 
resisted strenuously, and held on with brass claws and iron nails 
to the frames, the cushions and mattresses were torn out, and 
pitched out on the deck by sheer strength. The frames were 
made comfortable by means of wooden stretchers, but the cabins 
were so hot at night that a demand was made for hammocks. 
Several of Seydel's excellent light nettings were on board, and 
were slung outside the cabins on the main-deck. Lord Sufheld, 
Lord Carington, Lord C. Beresford, Colonel Ellis, Mr. Fitz- 
George, and I, found " these pendent nests " very comfortable. 
Lat. 19° 42' N., long. 39° 3' E., distance run 270 miles. The 
Prince, notwithstanding the temperature, played at " lawn " ten- 
nis in the afternoon. Great numbers of sand-martins kept up 
in the wake of the ship ; and many of the little fellows came on 
board and rested on the rigging. The kestrels follow them un- 
dauntedly to-day, and one more of them fell a victim to the 
Prince's gun. Fishing-lines were put over the sides, but not even 
a flying-fish could take a bait going fourteen knots an hour 



76 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

through the water. In the evening there was a solitary rubber 
of whist, — the only game which has been played since the de- 
parture from Brindisi, — and it did not last very long. The heat 
was too great, although the players were in the very lightest 
clothing. 

The correspondence between the Resident at Hyderabad and 
Sir Salar Jung, a copy of which had been sent on from England, 
was read and discussed among the old Indians, and I think there 
was only one opinion expressed respecting the taste and tone of 
despatches, which intimated that the Resident believed the rea- 
sons assigned for the Nizam's inability to go to Bombay were 
fictitious, and that the Dewan had some secret purpose to serve 
in asserting that the journey would, according to the physicians, 
be dangerous to the life of the boy, who is delicate and nervous, 
and who has never yet been separated from his mother. It is 
well sometimes that we have no foreign critics, no external pub- 
lic (in Europe or Asia) to bear upon our conduct in India. I say 
sometimes, because I believe that generally our rule will bear 
criticism. 

The propriety of sending on the Osbor7ie ahead to Aden to 
announce the Prince's arrival was considered, but the idea was 
abandoned, as "something" might happen, and it would be 
awkward if the Serapis^ which is " forced " a good deal, were 
to strike work in mid Red Sea. 

October 30. — The wind rose, and as it was right ahead, our 
speed was knocked down a knot an hour. Through the port 
caught glimpses of Osborne, pitching so as to bury her bows, 
whilst we in Serapis scarcely moved to the sea. At 9 a.m. the 
thermometer stood at 84^ in my cabin. Some of the suite feel 
the effect of the great heat. A Turkish bath is an excellent in- 
stitution, but if a man plays tennis till he is at boiling-point, and 
then dashes into cold water, he may suffer for it. Lord C. Beres- 
ford had a touch of fever, which by no means interfered with 
his animal spirits when he was awake, though it caused " Tom 
Fat '* considerable anxiety. Lord Carington, also, is not as well 
as we would wish. The servants complain of the short supplies 



RED SEA LUXURIES. *JJ 

of " ice " in their den. What a luxurious age it is ! Think of 
the Portuguese caravels, laden to the water's edge with armored 
men ; or of the Greeks returning from India up the Persian Gulf ! 
" But who can hold a fire in his hand for thinking of the frosty 
Caucasus ? " Wind sails were fitted to their ports, and a variety 
of light costumes was exhibited. At noon, observations gave 
lat. i6° 7' N., long. 41*^ 15' E., 250 miles since 12 o'clock yester- 
day. The island Gib-el-Teir, an extinct volcano, was seen right 
ahead, like a cloud on the water, about an hour afterwards. 
Deck tennis was still in vogue after lunch, and was eagerly 
worked at till it became too dark to play. At 2.30 p.m. the 
centrifugal pump got out of order — slowed for an hour during 
repairs. Passed Gib-el-Teir at sunset. The rude fantastic out- 
lines of what was called by some one on board " an awful monu- 
ment of the angry passions of the youthful world " riveted many 
a glass ; every one anxious to detect some sign of life on those 
awful crags where life has never been — not a blade of grass, nor 
shrub — nothing but cinders — scoriae — still colored by the tremen- 
dous furnace hues. The sea, which had been rising gradually with 
the increasing force of wind, now attracted the attention of some 
of the weaker vessels, who retired within their cabins, and did not 
appear at dinner. The Serapis, head to wind, was still wonderfully 
steady ; but the lights of the Osborne^ as seen from the stern win- 
dows, indicated that those on her deck were obliged to submit to 
considerable deviations from the perpendicular. Towards mid- 
night a cry of distress came up from the deeps, for, unwisely court- 
ing ventilation, some of the suite left their starboard ports open, 
and suddenly along the side of the ship there came a long, curling, 
crisping wave,, which just overlapped the sills, soused bedding and 
clothes, deposited an inch or two of water in the cabins and ran aft, 
rejoicing at the mischief it caused. Sir Bartle Frere, Canon 
Duckworth, Mr. Knollys, Mr. Grey, and myself were among the 
victims of the " water baby," and some of us had to look out for 
dry quarters on tables or sofas above. The deck saloon was 
turned into a sleeping-room for the nonce. After such a warning 
there could be no doubt as to the necessity of " putting up the 



yS THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

shutters," and ports on both sides were lowered and secured for 
the night. Towards ii o'clock p.m. the force of the wind — a 
strong south-easter — became so great that it might fairly be call- 
ed half a gale. The Prince, who goes on the bridge every night 
before he turns in, went up as usual, in light water-proof, and 
remained till past midnight enjoying the freshness of the wind, 
and watching the sea-horses tossing their white manes as they 
rolled past the ship in headlong charges into the darkness of the 
night. 

October Ty^^ Sunday. — The gale abated towards morning, but 
left a high confused sea behind it. I do not believe Captain 
Glyn turned in all night. All ports shut. Wind s.s.e. ; ther- 
mometer 82° ; water 86°. Mocha on port beam at 10 a.m. At 
1 1. 1 5 A.M. the Revi Canon Duckworth performed Divine service 
in the saloon. Prince and suite in blue frock-coats and white 
trousers. Service private— that is, the ship's officers and crew 
were not present, but had service on the main-deck. Perim, — a- 
gigantic blistered clinker, the vitrified dross of the submarine 
furnaces once so busy in this part of the earth, — with the British 
Standard flying on an elevated peak, and a group of very unpre- 
tentious dwellings on its arid ridge, came in sight. There was a 
guard of honor — the little garrison of the island — drawn up on 
a ledge above the sea, and his Royal Highness had his first view 
of her Majesty's native troops ; for the detachment belonged to 
the 2d Bombay Native Infantry (Grenadiers). He had fully 
acquainted himself with the reason of their being there, and cer- 
tainly was not indifferent to their singular residence. As the 
Serapis came nearly opposite the flag-staff, down came the ensign, 
the twittering of 2ifeu dejoie, repeated three times^ ran along the 
little line of infantry, and the feeble rattle and cheers, or what 
sounded like them, were borne down to our ears on the breeze. 
It is to be hoped that the general dwellers of Perim, who sat 
perched on the rocks like cormorants, could make out the Prince, 
who touched his cap repeatedly in acknowledgment of their to- 
kens of respect. The Serapis ran out of Bab-el-Mandeb (the 
" Gate of Wailing or Affliction " ?) at 3.50 p.m., and signalled to 



ENTERING ADEN. 79 

the Osborne to proceed at all speed to Aden, which was 95 miles 
distant, to announce the Prince's coming. 

November i. — " Rouse up ! Aden is in sight ! " But so it had 
been since 1.30 a.m. As the morning sun pierced the light cov- 
ering of fleecy clouds which benevolently sheltered us from the 
full fierceness of his welcome to the East, the barren savagery 
of the awful forms into which the volcanic eruptions hardened 
when their fires went out was concealed in the play of light and 
shade and shifting color, for the lava and scorise, of which Aden 
is made, have infinite variety of all hues save green, and present 
every sort of outline except the round. The ships in the har- 
bor, dressed out with flags, could be made out through the glass 
at 6 A.M., and many hundred feet high above them could be seen 
a solitary ensign fluttering from a staff erected on a towering 
lava shaft of Ras Morbat. At 6.30 a.m. the batteries saluted the 
distant flag of the Prince. Then, as the Serapis screwed gently 
landwards, the white bungalows and houses, like patches of snow, 
giving a delusive impression of coolness, against the Vandyke 
browns and red and sennas of the volcanic background of cra- 
ters and lava walls, varying from 700 to 1700 feet in height, by de- 
grees began to define themselves. Presently we could make out 
that the sides of the rugged clifl^s were covered with human be- 
ings, that there were many flags in front of the low white-roofed 
houses, and that there was a red line behind the platform which 
was indicated as the landing-place. For once Aden looked gay 
and bright indeed, and had decked herself in holiday attire. 
The Prince went up on the bridge to gaze upon the first fortified 
possession of the Queen and •' Empress of Hindoostan," ^ and 
looked on the scene with evident interest. Just at that moment, 
as if to call to mind what are the foundations on which that Em- 
pire to which he is heir mainly rests, the mail steamer from Bombay 



* This was written on November 18. The passage was published in the " Times " 
the same month in accidental anticipation of the formal assumption of the title by the 
Queen under the provision of an act of Parliament, It was believed by the writer at 
the time that by the Proclamation of Allahabad the title was legally assumed by her 
Majesty. 



So THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

(the Peninsular and Oriental ship Lombardy) appeared from be- 
hind the projecting Ras (headland), to the north-east. A large 
Arab dhow, laden with people who had no great interest in the 
event of the day, if one might judge from their keeping on their 
outward course, was obstinately bowling along to the west j 
another dhow stood in towards the harbor under all sail close 
hauled ; but there were no other moving objects except a few 
gulls on the water. At anchor in the road lay H.M.S. Osborjie^ 
H.M.S. Vulture^ an Egyptian sloop of war, a French mail steam- 
er, three British steamers, and two or three sailing ships, flying 
every flag they could find. At 6.45 a.m. the Serapis ran down 
towards her moorings in West Bay. Then from a lava-peak 800 
feet high there spurted forth a bolt of snowy smoke ; the thunder 
rolled over the tremendous crags, and the report of the cannon 
woke all the grim steeps into life, and seemed to invite the rival- 
ry of their ancient fires. Gun succeeded gun, battery followed 
battery, opening suddenly again and again from unexpected bluffs 
and mounds far away. The Vulture and Egyptian frigate joined 
in chorus as the Serapis^ with the Prince's standard flying, let go 
her anchors and brought up off the landing-place, about one mile 
from shore. The effect of the salute was very fine. Before the 
anchors were well down, the Somali boys, familiar to all visitors 
to Aden, came alongside, paddling their frail canoes, which re- 
semble the longitudinal section of a large cigar, and hold at most 
two of these naked, curly-headed young vagabonds,, who are more 
at home in the water than on land. They at once began to call 
for money to be thrown overboard that they might show their 
skill in diving, — very different from their congeners at Greenwich 
in the whitebait season, — and their appeals were answered by a 
shower of pence. They expected more precious coins from such 
a noble ship, no doubt, and the first Somali who came up from a 
deep dive after a penny made a horrible grimace as soon as he 
rose to the surface and saw the piece of money, the color of his 
own skin, which he had rescued from the depths. The Prince 
watched their gambols for some time, and shot a couple of gulls 
which they dashed at like water-dogs, and fastened to a string 



LANDING IN ADEN. 8 1 

that they might be hauled up the side. Certainly, next to otters 
or seals, there are no such swift, keen-sighted divers, and the way 
in which they get into their miserable leaky canoes, which must 
be baled out incessantly, is very adroit. Civilization is making 
way among them, for, though they still dye their hair red, and 
twist it into corkscrew curls defying imitation, they have adopted 
simpler styles of ornamentation in head-dresses, and wear draw, 
ers or loin-cloths. Soon after 8 a.m. the Prince came on deck 
wearing Indian helmet, plumes, blue frock undress, Field-Alar- 
shal's insignia, and white trousers, the suite being ordered to ap- 
pear in parade dress, or civil uniform, helmets, and white trou- 
sers. Presently, the Resident, Brigadier-Generai Schneider and 
Staff, Colonel Penn, R.A., &c., came off in full uniform, to pay 
their respects, and to take the Prince's pleasure as to the time 
of landing, and the arrangements for his reception. There was 
a brief space of time to prepare despatches and letters for home, 
and to send on telegrams to India. 

The Resident then returned to shore. A little after 9 a.m. 
the Prince embarked in the State barge, to which his flag was 
transferred from the main ; the shore batteries and the ships 
saluted again ; the Serapis manned yards ; the Marines, under 
Major Snow, were drawn up on the main-deck, the band playing 
"God save the Queen." ThQ Lorn bar dy manned foreyards in 
very creditable style, and her crew and passengers cheered 
bravely. About 9.30 a.m. the Prince landed at the triumphal 
arch or covered way prepared for his reception. The platform 
was laid with scarlet carpeting, and was covered with an awning, 
or shamianah. At the water-step stood in front the Resident 
and the officers of the Staff and of the garrison of Aden. On 
the left stood the Foreign Consuls, the officials and Residents, — 
European, Asiatic, and African, — of every kind of dress, com- 
plexion, and aspect. 

On the right side were drawn up the Arab Chiefs, the Sultan 

of Lahej, his brothers, and some six or seven other Chiefs or 

" Sultans " from the mainland, in most picturesque costumes, 

who first attracted the Prince's attention. They received his 

4* 6 



82 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Royal Highness with a kind of proud deference. One Sultan 
could not come on account of fever, but most of those whom we 
subsidize to give and protect the carriage of supplies to the 
garrison attended. It is a pity some opera costumer could not 
have seen them. He might enlist a legion of supernumeraries 
before he could find such a picturesque creature as one of the 
Sultan's brothers. Figure and face might have belonged to some 
clothed statue but for the eye, which burnt and flashed like glass 
reflecting the rays of the desert sun. Impossible to convey an 
idea of his splendid repose, or to describe his dress, which ter- 
minated (alas !) in a pair of socks and French bottines. 

The Prince, acknowledging the loud cheers which greeted 
his landing, walked down the platform to the esplanade at the 
end, where a guard of honor of one hundred men of the 2d 
Battalion, 25 th King's Own Borderers Regiment, with their 
colors, was drawn up in front of a handsomely-decorated Stand, 
which contained all the ladies of the garrison and Station, some 
in European and some in Asiatic costumes. On the front of the 
Stand waved the Prince of Wales's plumes, composed of one 
hundred ostrich feathers, and, emblazoned in gold and blue, an 
inscription bade the Royal traveller "Welcome." As he emerged 
from the shelter of the awning into the bright sunshine, and his 
eye rested on the extraordinary gathering of natives on the crags 
and rocks, where they were nestling like sea-fowl of curious plu- 
mage and color, he might well have been struck with admira- 
tion at the unpremeditated picturesqueness of the scene. There 
were weird and wonderful types of humanity from the opposite 
coast of Africa, wearing hair resembling small snakes, stiffened 
like quills, or falling down like red fungi on each side of their 
faces, the men often far over six feet in height, with dazzling 
white teeth, scanty clothing, and legs which might be taken for 
mop-handles ; fierce-eyed Arabs, demure Hindoos, sleek Parsees 
from Bombay, and varied specimens of the teeming populations 
which come from the Persian Gulf and the Coast of Africa to 
Zanzibar, and from the shores of the country marked as Arabia 
Deserta in our maps. Such dresses, as well as such absence of 



ADDRESS OF WELCOME. 83 

apparel, although he has now travelled in many lands, and has 
seen many strange sights, had never yet met the gaze of the 
Prince. 

AVhen the Prince returned to the shamianah, Mr. Cowasjee 
Durshaw was presented by the Resident. This gentleman has, 
by honorable industry, raised himself to a high position in Aden. 
He is a Parsee, and he wore the distinctive head-dress of his 
people, which was adopted from the Hindoos, flowing robes of 
pure white muslin, trousers of the same, and shoes turned up 
at the toes. He proceeded to read an address from a hand- 
somely illuminated volume.* At first his voice was somewhat 



* As this was the first address which the Prince received to the east of Europe, it 
is worth while to print the text, wliicli was very handsomely emblazoned and bound in 
an illuminated cover. The Parsees telegraphed both address and answer the same 
night to Bombay for the information of their community. 

" To his Royal Highness Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, Duke of Saxe 
Coburg and Gotha, Duke of Cornwall, &c. 

"May it please your Royal Highness, — 

" We, the undersigned inhabitants of Aden, representing the mercantile 
community, humbly beg leave to approach and welcome your Royal High- 
ness on arrival at the first British possession belonging to her Majesty'-s vast 
dominions in India. 

" We feel gratified for the opportunity thus afforded us of expressing 
through your Royal Highness our loyalty and devotion for Her Most Gracious 
Majesty the Queen and Empress of India. 

" We fully appreciate the motive which induces your Royal Highness to 
visit India, and confidently believe that it will tend still further to cement the 
cordial understanding that now happily subsists between her Majesty's 
British and Indian subjects. We desire to acknowledge with gratitude the 
blessings we enjoy under the mild and just sway of her- Majesty's Government, 
as exemplified in the yearly increasing prosperity of this important military 
settlement. When Aden was captured in 1839, being the first of the territorial 
conquests that have been made during the glorious reign of Queen Victoria, 
it was only a small fishing village ; but under the fostering care of British 
rule it has expanded, as your Royal Highness will this day see, and it has be- 
come a large and prosperous town, containing a population of nearly 30,000 
souls, composed of many creeds and races, and an import and export trade 
showing transactions valued at upwards of two millions sterling. Werecog- 
nize in your Royal Highness's visit to India a desire to become acquainted 



84 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

tremulous, but as he read on he acquired confidence, making a 
low bow whenever he had occasion to allude to the Queen, the 
Prince, or Princess, and pronouncing his English very plainly, 
he came at last to the end. His co-religionists, a knot of eminent- 
ly respectable, intelligent-looking men, dressed for the most 
part with greater richness than their spokesman, listened to the 
address and to the Prince's reply with the profoundest attention. 
The Arabs were somewhat bored, it struck me, with both the 
Parsees and with their address, and looked disappointed when 
the Prince walked towards the carriages prepared for him and 
his suite. The Peninsula is not rich in such vehicles, but the 
Resident and the chief merchants had collected enough of Vic- 
torias and four-wheelers for all the suite, not without calling in 
the resources of Bombay The guard presented arms, the peo- 
ple cheered loudly, and the cortege, escorted by Major Stevens' 
Aden Troop, — very picturesque cavaliers from India, in red tur- 
bans, dark tunics and jack-boots, mounted on fiery little horses, 
and armed with tremendous sabres, — preceded by a body of 
Shortee Sowars, — Native troopers riding fast dromedaries, — set 
out along an excellent road, to visit "the lines," which extend 
some six miles from end to end. The sides of the road were 
lined by H. M.'s 25th Regiment, the 2d Bombay N.I. Grena- 
diers, the Royal Artillery, and by detachments of Native Sappers, 

with the manners, customs, and institutions of its people, which cannot fail 
to be productive to the teeming populations over which your Royal Highness 
is destined hereafter to reign. To commemorate your Royal Highness's 
visit to Aden, we have sef aside the sum of Rs- 20,000, to found a charitable 
dispensary, which, with your Royal Highness's permission, we propose to 
style the Prince of Wales's Charitable Dispensary. We beg, in conclusion, 
to express to your Royal Highness our earnest hope that your Royal mother, 
our most gracious Sovereign, may long be spared to reign over us, and also 
that her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales and the Royal children may 
enjoy, with your Royal Highness, long lives of peace and happiness, surround- 
ed by all the blessings this world can give. 

" We beg to subscribe ourselves your Royal Highness's most obedient, 
humble servants, 

"CowASjEE DuRSHAW, and others." 



THE TURKS IN ARABIA. 85 

Gun Lascars. The European troops wore Indian hemlets, the 
Native troops turbans with distinctive badges. Along tiie 
greater part of the route crowds of '' Natives," kept in order 
by vigilant, yellow-turbaned policemen, assembled at the best 
places. Of the 30,000 souls in Aden, there were few who did 
not come to look at the Prince, though there were some who 
stood afar, as if fearful of coming too close. A crowd of bhees- 
ties watered the dusty road in vain. When the clouds opened 
for a moment, the sun let fall rays like red-hot iron bars, and 
umbrellas and dust-coats were in requisition. 

The Prince passed under many triumphal arches (six or 
seven at least), each with appropriate inscriptions and devices, 
visited the new works, saw the tanks, and halted for half an hour 
at the Mess-house of the 25th (K.O.B.), where there was a col- 
lation, which was very welcome. Thence he continued his in- 
spection of the " lines," passing through the tunnels, and getting 
out of his carriage at the Victoria Bastion to take a look from 
the top of the rampart over the low spit which connects Aden 
with the mainland. In the distance there could be made out a 
few trees and a small white-walled hamlet — the outpost of the 
Aden Horse. The Turkish outposts were at Thiais. They 
extend thence across Fow, at the distance of 120 miles from our 
outposts. A new Pasha had come to command at Sana, and he 
had just given the Hashad Arabs a complete defeat. The prox- 
imity of the Turks and the movements of the Egyptians along 
the opposite coast cause uneasiness at Aden. If it were the 
object of our Government to precipitate the collapse of the 
Ottoman Empire, they would be pleased to hear that the Sultan 
is keeping up an army of 30,000 or 40,000 troops against the 
Arab tribes, at an incalculable cost. There surely seems to be 
no solid reason for the smallest jealousy of Egyptian influence 
over the tribes which the Khedive is taking in hand on the 
African side, for it must be our interest to see a settled adminis- 
tration along the coast, and to deal with civilized, instead of 
savage government. 

The climate seems favorable to the production of a somewhat 



86 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

light and acid humor. The inscriptions over some of the designs 
of the cantonments indicated the existence of a certain caustic 
fun, which may be the result of a residence on this somewhat 
over-sunny peninsula. Over the portal of one building was in- 
scribed " Morituri te salutant f " On inquiry it turned out that 
the place was the garrison slaughter-house. On another bQild- 
ing was depicted a blazing yellow sun of a sinister aspect, wink- 
ing one eye at an arid waste of stones, dotted with scanty her- 
bage and half-starved camels, with the legend "Welcome to 
Araby the Blest ! " Some classical artist had limned a dark 
young lady, in native garb, advancing to meet an unmistakable 
Britannia, with the words, '' Mater pidchrd filia pulchrior r' A 
materialist had designed a pile of champagne bottles, with the 
motto, " Thirsty Aden drinks to thee ! " In front of the modest 
library was the inscription, " Hail ! Author of our joy ! " There 
were endless " Welcomes," and " Hails," and '' Good wishes," 
and a " Cead mille failthe. " " Freedom for all under the 
British Flag ! " " Great Britain and India united for ever ! " 
" Hail, electrifier of loyal hearts ! " " Hail, Royal scion of a 
noble Queen ! " " Happy and glorious is the reign of Victoria ! " 
" Aden owes her prosperity to Britain;" "Our Arab tents are 
rude for thee." There were few if any Arabic or Ordoo inscrip- 
tions, and only one or two in French or other European lan- 
guage. • 

Above the portal of the Main Guard, which is situated in the 
throat of a narrow ravine at the Pass — a rift in the rugged crater 
wall, so wild and dark that one might pardon those who thought 
the Inferno lay inside — were written the words " Halt ! who goes 
there ? " As we passed the grinning mouths of the guns which 
seemed to ask the question, there was no reply ; but the inscrip- 
tion, "Pass, friend! And all's well," greeted the Royal visitor 
at the exit. On another archway there was emblazoned a 
" Hearty Welcome," which, when the Prince returned through 
the gate on his way back, was replaced by "Farewell, Albert 
Edward ! our hearts go with thee ! " 

At 12.30 P.M. the Prince reached the Residency, a large bun- 



THE FIRST LEVEE. 8/ 

galow, situated on an elevated peak of one of the higher ridges 
of Aden, and looking down on a quiet bay hundreds of feet be- 
low. It is a plain, unpretentious, and not very extensive quad- 
rangle, of which, though it was decked out with much taste inside, 
any great Indian civilian would not think much of as an official 
residence. The gardens were laid out by Colonel Playfair when 
he was Resident, with the assistance of Dr. George Birdwood, 
who sent the frankincense trees, which form such interesting 
objects, from Bombay.* The sight of shrubs and flowers so 
green and bright, in a setting of rugged scoriae, is very refreshing. 
There is a very interesting flora at Aden, for all its barreness, 
and Mr. Mudd, the Prince's botanist, made valuable additions 
to his collection here. 

Mrs. and Miss Schneider were presented to the Prince. 
After lunch his Royal Highness held his first levee in the Indian 
dominions of the Queen — for Aden may be considered as an 
outlying dependency of the Presidency of Bombay — in the outer 
room in the Residency, which was in some degree cooled by the 
current of air through mat hangings outside the porch, and by 
verandas jealously excluding the sun. Captain Hunter, Lieu- 
tenant Kennedy, Lieutenant Sealy, and the officers of the Aden 
staff — Military, Marine, Judicial, Medical, &c. — were duly pre- 
sented by the Resident. Mr. Jones, the Garrison Chaplain, 
Father Francis, the Roman Catholic Chaplain, in cowl and cord 
and sandal shoon, were not forgotten. The Foreign Consular 
officers presented the Prince with an address ; Herr Ganslandt, 
Consul for Germany, offered a few words of congratulation, ap- 
parently on his own account. There was also an Egyptian 
officer, who said he came in the Khedive's name to offer a wel- 
come to the Prince. The principal merchants of Aden were in- 
troduced. Next came the reception of the Arab Chiefs: — very 
real men to look at — with a sort of proud suspicion and disdain 
in their glances at all save the Prince — and all picturesque and 

* The descriptions and figures of three new species of the genus Boswellia, which 
were discovered by Dr. Birdwood, appeared in the " Transactions of the Linnean 
Society " in 1869. 



88 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

sufficiently graceful ; the most interesting, spite of the attractions 
of his wild-eyed brother, was the Sultan of Lahej, who was in- 
troduced by the Resident to the Prince of Wales "as a faithful 
ally of the Queen." This Chief, Fadhil bin Ali al Abdala, Sul- 
tan, who succeeded Fadhil bin Mohun last year, is of olive com- 
plexion, mild aspect, with soft lustrous eyes, black mustache 
and small curling beard. He was richly dressed, and fully 
armed with scimetar and pistols ; but to the horror of the old 
Indians of the party, he was in stockings and boots instead of 
bare feet. General Schneider held the left hand of the Sultan 
in his right, and between the Sultan and the Prince stood the 
native interpreter. In a few graceful words, the Prince expressed 
his acknowledgments, on behalf of the Queen, of the services 
rendered by the Sultan to the garrison of Aden ; and as a 
souvenir of his visit he pinned one of the medals struck for the 
Indian visit, and to which there was attached a blue ribbon, on 
the Sultan's left breast, and then put a massive gold ring, with 
the initials A.E., on the Sultan's finger. The ceremonial was 
explained by General Schneider, through the interpreter, to him 
of Lahej, who never looked at either medal or ring while in the 
Prince's presence. 

For all his pride and pleasure the poor Chief was nursing a 
small wound. He had been refused "the completion of his joy." 
Here is the translation of a letter which will explain his grief : — 

From Sultan Fudhl bin Ali, of Lahej, to General Schneider C. B. A. C. 
I inform you that your letter dated the loth October has reached 
me, and its contents are understood. It has delighted me exceedingly, as it con- 
tained the news of the approach of H. R.H. the Prince of Wales,the future King. 
I also became very glad for your invitation to come to Aden on that day. I 
hope that you will complete my joy by allowing me to enter Aden with at least 
one hundred men, and after the meeting I will leave the town at once, because 
I am only coming to see one who is a most powerful and majestic friend. Al- 
though the meeting will take place only for a moment, it will be enough. If 
you will not permit me to come with one hundred followers, I will still come 
to pay my homage to the great Prince, but it will be with grief, and it is not 
proper to wear sorrow while all my friends are rejoicing ; so please keep sor 
row away from me, by giving permission. May you remain for ever. 
1 8 Ramzan^ 1292. 



THE FIRST LEVEE. 89 

The Resident, however, did not think it expedient to grant 
this humble petition. It is to be hoped, nevertheless, that the 
Sultan went back with a light heart. General Schneider ap- 
pears to understand the Chiefs and to be liked by them, and he 
would not have rejected the demand without good reasons for it. 

Aden may be regarded as our Indian Gibraltar. There is 
an evidence of the cost of Empire in the cemetery where rest so 
many of our people — very numerous indeed for the size of the 
place. They do not fall in battle, but they fail on the homeward 
voyage — too often deferred till all hope is over — ^from India. 
Whilst the Prince was at the Residency, Captain Glyn visited 
the grave of his brother Richard, who was buried at Aden on 
his way to England at the close of the mutiny, and old com- 
rades of the Rifle Brigade and friends will be glad to learn that 
the place where he rests is carefully kept, and that all about it is 
in order. There is no ancient record of travel in which this 
cinder-heap is not mentioned as a place of importance. It has 
now been 37 years in the possession of Great Britain, and yet it 
is only within the last 17 years that the restoration of the fifty 
and odd reservoirs, some of which were probably constructed 
more than 1260 years ago, was undertaken ; so that for nearly a 
quarter of a century we allowed a rapid ruin to fall upon these 
wonderful works which uncivilized and barbarous nations, as we 
call them, perfected. When Captain Haines visited Aden, four 
years before we attacked and took it, several of the reservoirs— 
" the hanging-tanks up the hill-sides " were in perfect order. 
The " fine remains of ancient splendor " which Salt saw in 1809, 
have now all vanished. If we were to leave Aden to-morrow, 
the works which would record our presence would be few indeed 
— a mess-house or two, a small quay, a light-house, some batteries 
and stone walls, and imperfect restorations of the doings of oth- 
ers. And yet the very names of the makers of the great tanks 
which we are clearing out are unknown, and the impression left 
on the minds of the general Briton quartered in the place by 
the operation is, very probably, that tOe are executing great con- 
ceptions never thought of in the dark ages. Playfair's " History 



90 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

of Yemen " gives a most interesting account of the efforts made 
500 years ago to convey water into Aden. When the first sys- 
tem of reservoirs was restored and constructed in 1857, a single 
fall of rain, we are told, gave a larger store of water than all 
the wells would have yielded in a year. Proud of steam power, 
however, we preferred condensers to any attempt to take the 
goods the gods provide us, and for a long time were glad to pay 
6s. or 7^. for 100 gallons of very vapid oxide of hydrogen. 

The population of Aden is housed, for the most part, in 
wigwams. The place is a penal settlement for India, and peo- 
ple whom it would be inconvenient to keep in Bombay and its 
dependencies are deported to this garrison, over the entrance to 
which the inscription above the Gates of the Hell which Dante 
saw might well be placed, although it could not add to their mis- 
ery. Jaswunt Rao Jasood, one of those alleged to have been 
engaged in the attempt to poison Colonel Phayre, was deported 
here by order of the Government of India, and was in Aden at 
the time of the Prince's visit, — probably not at large, — and there 
were possibly others connected with the same business ; but the 
writ of Habeas Corpus does not run in these parts of the 
Queen's dominions. As far as I know, there was no judicial 
sentence of any kind against Jaswunt Rao Jasood. The two 
Maharajas and Sir Madhava Rao, indeed, dissented so complete- 
ly from their European colleagues as to say that they did not 
believe the Gaekwar had instigated any attempt against Colonel 
Phayre's life, and, J>ro fan^o, they acquitted those who were on 
trial, or whose guilt was being inquired into ; but all the same, 
the Indian Government deposed the Gaekwar, and sent Jaswunt 
Rao and others into exile. When the Prince was at Baroda, a 
petition was delivered at the Residency from the family of Jas- 
wunt, praying that they might be allowed to communicate with 
him at Aden, but the Prince could not interfere in the matter. 

There is a regulation which is founded on the assumption 
that Aden commands the. Red Sea, and that Great Britain is the 
mistress of that sea, which, if enforced, ought to enable the 
British authorities to exercise enormous influence. Every vessel 



EXILES IN ADEN. 9 1 

carrying more than thirty passengers, natives of Asia or Africa, 
from any port east of the Cape of Good Hope to any port in 
the Red Sea, or from any port in the Red Sea to any port on the 
East Coast of Africa, must touch at Aden, and not depart with- 
out a clean bill of health. But why thirty ? Or how can the 
number be ascertained ? These questions are not easily to be 
answered. The sea-imports of Aden in 1874-5 were no less than 
2,050,837/. ; the exports were 1,278,365/. ; total of exports and im- 
ports, 3,329,202/. Where the difference, amounting to 772,472/., 
between the incomings and outgoings went, it is difficult to 
conjecture. But it is a very unpleasant fact for Manchester, 
that American piece-goods are sold here at a higher price than 
English manufactures, and are sent from Aden to Mocha and 
Hodeida in very large quantities. There are eyes from Ger- 
many, France, Austria, Italy, Holland, Sweden, etc., upon us at 
Aden, for there are Consular officers to represent these Powers ; 
but Turkey and the United States seem to leave us to our own 
devices. The garrison of Aden consists of a Battalion of 
Queen's troops, a Battalion of Native troops, two Batteries of 
Royal Artillery, one Company of Indian Artillery, one Company 
of Indian Sappers and Miners, and the Aden Troop belonging 
to a regiment of Bombay Cavalry. The political and military 
functions are in the hands of the Resident, who is also charged 
with the administration of justice, in which he is assisted by 
subordinate officers and the Cantonment magistrate. He is the 
Sovereign's representative, to whom the Arab tribes look, if not 
for protection, at any rate for the payment of annual subven- 
tions ; and it is a curious, if inevitable, feature in the dealings 
of the British Government with their very odd allies here, as well 
as on the North-west frontier of India, that it pays them tribute 
instead of receiving tribute from them. We may put any gloss 
we please on the fact, but the naked truth which the payees per- 
ceive under it is, that they receive our money to be quiet. The 
Abdalees and the Fadthalees were our bitter enemies for several 
years after the British occupation ; but they were beaten into 
treaty-obligations ; and to the Chief of the first tribe (Lahej). we 



92 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

pay 6942 German crowns a year ; to the Chief of the second 
Sultan of the Fadthalees, 2160 ; and to the Chiefs of seven other 
tribes, little gratuities varying from 80/. to the modest sum of 
8/. per annum. We are supposed to be the protectors of these 
tribes against the encroachments of the Turks, and the eye of 
the Resident is supposed to look across the narrow sea, also 
keep a keen glance on the opposite coast, and watch the uncanny 
doings of the Egyptians. 

There are now ninety-four guns in position, and heavy guns 
are much needed on two of the points. Ten 9-in. guns are to be 
mounted immediately ; but they have been lying exposed to the 
weather for the last five years. There ought to be at least three 
more batteries between the Camp and Steamer Point, which are 
six miles apart. In consequence of a recommendation of Lord 
Sandhurst in 1864, the Native Artillery are to be removed, and 
replaced by fifty Lascars, who are of no use as garrison gunners, 
and do not know enough drill to enable them to fire a salute. 
There is one point from which an enemy's steamer could reach 
the coal depots. This should be secured. 

Having taken leave of Mrs. Schneider and her daughter, the 
Prince walked down the steep path from the Residency to the 
beach, where the steam-launch and boats of the Serapis were 
waiting in a secluded little bay. There was no crowd to witness 
his departure ; no one except a few Arab fishermen, who did 
not heed what was going on. The many who were loitering 
about the platform and triumphal arch were no doubt taken by 
surprise when the guns fired a salute, and the manned yards of 
the Serapis and Vulture^ and the cheers of the crews, announced 
that the Prince was going on board without returning from the 
Residency to the landing-stage. The Resident and the prin- 
cipal officers of the Staff, the commanding officers of her Maj- 
esty's 25th (2d Battalion), K.O.B. (Colonel Wallace), and 2d 
Bombay Grenadiers (Lieut.-Colonel Stanley Edwardes), Colonel 
Penn, R.A., Major Stevens, Aden Troop, Commander Brooke, 
R.N., &c., were invited to the Prince's table on board the 
Serapis ; and a dinner was also given by the ward-room officers 



SOMETHING WRONG BELOW. 93 

to the officers of the garrison. The town, the lines and the 
batteries were lighted up and illuminated at nightfall. At 9 p.m. 
Brigadier-General Schneider and officers took leave of the 
Prince, and returned to Aden. At 10.30 p.m. the Serapis, with 
the Osborne in company, quietly got under way, and steamed 
out into the placid ocean for Bombay. 

November 2. — Our log-book is a record of dry accomplished 
facts, for " incidents " are distasteful to our excellent and prac- 
tically-minded Captain ; all non-essential matter is carefully es- 
chewed ; even the capture of a " booby " or a " noddy " would 
not have been entered. The wind was generally light and favor- 
able — that is ahead, so as to make the boilers draw. The dis- 
tance allowed per 24 hours was 246 knots, and at 48 revolutions 
the Serapis did that run very readily " when nothing went 
wrong." At noon our position was determined to be lat 12^ 
59' N., long. 47'' 22' E., there being only i' difference between 
the ship's place according to dead reckoning and that given by 
observation. Distance from Aden, 134 miles j from Colaba 
Light-House, 15 10 miles. The thermometer rose to Si'^, the 
temperature of sea-water was 78°. Nor birds, nor ship, nor fish 
proper, were visible, but the sea abounded in incredible quanti- 
ties of jelly-fish of all sizes, from the bigness of a florin to that 
of the top of one's hat, which, exhibiting many pretty colors, 
were floating at various depths — some nearly on the surface of 
the water, and some far down as the eye could reach. At 2.10 
P.M. there was a sensation. The ship suddenly stopped. Every 
one was instant in inquiry, '-' What is it .'' Why are we stop- 
ping ? " The cause was soon explained. A condensing pipe was 
out of order. It was set to rights in a quarter of an hour, and 
the vessel proceeded on her way; but in little more than an 
hour the screw again ceased to work. Then great Mr. Oliver, 
Inspector of Machinery afloat, — a hard-headed Oliver Cromwell 
sort of Scot, master of his work, — took off his coat, and dived 
down the ladder into the interior of the murky turmoil of boilers, 
pistons, and furnaces, to direct the operations for the repair of 
the machinery. The Prince and the Duke of Sutherland also 



94 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR, 

descended into the engine-room, to see for themselves what was 
wrong. This time it was the soft metal stuffing of one of the 
pipes which had melted, and the water was going into the stoke- 
holes. In an hour and a half the needful repairs were effected, 
and the Serapis resumed her course. Some censure was be- 
stowed on the jelly-fish, which were said to have got into places 
where they had no right to be. At 6.21 p.m. there was a sun- 
set of such miraculous beauty that every one came up on deck 
to see it. The sea was of an intense purple, almost black ; the 
sky on the horizon, for ten or twelve degrees, was of a flaming 
saffron, softening and spreading upwards in a fan-shaped- radi- 
ance of amber and yellow which melted into the tenderest and 
most delicious green. Long after the sun had set, the glory of 
that wonder of harmonious color haunted the western sea. 

November 3.— It was a dead calm all day. The sea was 
more animated. Flying fish skimmed away over the smooth 
roll of the ocean, the repose of which was broken now and then 
by the plunge of a large fish in pursuit of the much-persecuted 
creatures which, between the bonitos and the gulls, have no 
peace either in sea or air. The waters are reported to be much 
favored of sharks here ; and towards noon certainly we were 
gratified by the sight of a school of whales, which kept, however, 
a good way from the ship. I^ was well they did, for rifles were 
immediately got in readiness to cause them inconvenience if 
they came within shot. The wondrous drift of jelly-fish con- 
tinued. Scarce a square yard of water without its indolent 
citizen. There below him were others in layers far as the eye 
could reach — hour after heur for hundreds of miles. We lowered 
buckets over the side, but the ship went through the water at 
too great a speed to permit us to catch any. What a wealth of 
life ! What a subject for research ! At noon we were in lat. 
14'' 2' N., long 51° 37' E., 1250 miles from Colaba Light-House, 
Bombay; the ship running 12 knots. There was a solitary 
ridge, like a cloud, resting on the water, visible on the port 
beam, which Was pronounced to be Ras Fartak, a wall-like steep 
some 6 miles long and 1900 feet high, which is quite inaccessible 



THE PROGRAMME MODIFIED. 95 

from the sea. It was said to be some 80 miles distant as we 
steered, and to be in a savage part of vast unknown Arabia, 
where the people of the Coast are given, it is believed, to sore 
ill-treat traveller or luckless mariner. There is some trade, 
especially in dead sharks'-skins and fins, nevertheless, in the 
small maritime towns along this coast farther north. This day 
ihere was a council of deliberation held in the saloon to Consider 
ihe bearings of the news received at Aden as to the existence of 
cholera in Southern India, and to decide upon the route to be 
taken in consequence ; and after full discussion it was resolved 
that the visit to Trincomalee should be given up. 

As an illustration of the influence on events which trivial 
matters may exercise, I may mention how it came to pass that 
the Prince's tour in Southern India was so modified and altered. 
Before leaving England, one of the tuite received a letter, in- 
tended for publication in a newspaper, from Mr. J. B. Norton, 
enclosing a communication from an officer of Engineers, which 
pointed out the grave dangers which would attend a visit to the 
districts at the time of year indicated in one of the programmes 
to it. As it was considered inexpedient to create alarm in the 
public mind, the letter was put aside. One day it met the eye 
of the gentleman for whom it was intended, who communicated 
the contents to Dr. Fayrer ; and he considered it of sufficient 
consequence to be made known to Sir Bartle Frere. A telegram 
was despatched from Egypt to the authorities at Bombay, to make 
inquiry into the truth of the statements as to the danger of visits 
ing the districts in question. When the Prince arrived at Aden, 
the answer to these inquiries came back by telegraph, to the ef^ 
feet that although the risk of fever appeared to be exaggerated, 
there could be no doubt that the neighborhood was at that mo- 
ment unhealthy, as cholera appeared to be spreading among the 
villages surrounding the hills where the Prince's sporting camp 
would have been pitched. It became necessary to modify the 
programme, and to suspend any decision respecting that part of 
it until further information could be procured after our arrival at 
Bombay. 



9^ THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

At 3;4o P.M. there was a stoppage of the engine once more. 
This time it was the cover of the bilge-pump of the main engine 
which had become disorganized. The bilges had been pumped 
out, and a good deal of work had been done in the engine-room 
to-day, so that when the accident occurred it was not considered 
of any consequence, as it was known that everything was in good 
order. In half an hour or so the vessel went on at increased 
speed to make up for lost time. At 6.20 p. m. the Osbor7ie sig- 
nalled that she could not keep up at the rate of 12}^ knots, and 
our speed was reduced i knot an hour accordingly. 

November 4. — The ship's company exercised at small arms, 
and were inspe<:ted by the Prince. At noon we were in lat. 15^ 
14' N., long. 56° 23' E. ; 964 miles from Colaba Point; sea like 
glass. There was a concert in the theatre on deck after dinner ; 
but the comfort of the audience was interfered with, and their 
enjoyment of the entertainment diminished, by showers of smuts 
and clinkers from the funnel, which were driven aft by the head- 
wind. Some amateurs who appeared for the first time were 
stricken dumb from stage fright ; their voices died in their 
throats. The bandsmen sang some part songs and glees very ex- 
cellently well. Alister, the Duke of Sutherland's piper, in all his 
bravery, made a promenade round and round, with his pipes 
playing gayly ; but he rather fretted on the narrow stage, for your 
piper is nothing if he cannot strut up and down with martial 
swagger, swelling like a pouter pigeon. The leading comedian 
tried a little tragic part, — a reformed pickpocket d la " It's Never 
Too Late To Mend," — and the gods roared with laughter at 
his great discomfiture. 

November 5. — The continuous steaming for five weeks is 
rather too much for the engines, and repairs and a thorough 
overhaul are much needed, and will be executed at Bombay. At 
noon we were 654 miles w. of Colaba Light-House (lat. 16° 18' 
N., long. 60° 55' E.). There was a disturbance among the Arabs 
shipped at Suez as stokers respecting the choice of sleeping- 
places, the top of the sheep-pens being much coveted for that 
purpose. After dinner the Prince went on deck, where the crew 



GUY FAWKES AT SEA. 9/ 

had prepared a very elaborate Guy Fawkes, with a long wig and 
bands, villanous countenance, lantern, &c., complete, which was 
brought aft to the sound of fog-horns, tin-kettles, and all kinds 
of abominable noise. To this the Arabs, who perceived there 
was a tomasha going on, thought they would add an entertain- 
ment of their own. They accordingly crowded up on the upper- 
deck, with false beards, colored faces, &c., and were quite en- 
joying themselves in their own fashion, when it was perceived 
that they were very rudely interrupting the legitimate drama, 
whereupon they were sent back whence they came, and even fur- 
ther, and had good reasons afterwards to repent their intrusion. 
When the Arabs had been removed, one of the crew read an in- 
dictment against Guy Fawkes, and pronounced sentence upon 
him, which ended with the committal of his body to the deep. 
A floating stage was ready at the side, Guy Fawkes was placed 
upon it, and when the port fire was lighted the stage was let go 
and dropped into the sea. To the great disappointment of the 
contrivers and the spectators, the stage capsized, and Guy 
Fawkes was whirled astern on his side ; but it v.as fondly believed 
that the fire would not be extinguished, and that the rockets, 
maroons, and other explosives with which he was charged would 
go off after a lime. Eyes were strained to catch the first fizz in 
the distance ; but, to the grief of every one but the captain, who 
"didn't see the fun " of having these fireworks blazing under his 
counter, Guy Fawkes never righted himself, and was lost in the 
darkness. It would be curious to learn what became of him. 
The thing would float about for weeks, and might cause many a 
false alarm and strange surprise at sea. 

Novembef 6. — A wind from north-east fresh enough to mark 
"3 " in the log, and to make one look out through the open port 
now and then to see if a wave was likely to come inboard, 
heralded by a crest of foam ; but, though it often threatened, the 
breeze was not strong enough to summon the dreaded men who 
come round the cabins to secure the dead-eyes. The sea was 
still full of jelly-fish, apparently drifting about in a helpless way, 
but bent doubtless on important business. For all their flabby 
S 7 



98 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

purposelessness, these creatures can vex steam-engines and men, 
for they are sucked into the pipes, and are solid enough to clog 
them. It was resolved to send the Osborne in advance to Bom- 
bay with letters, and at noon she ran up very close, and in reply 
to the Prince's hail. Commander Durrant said he hoped to get 
in by lo o'clock on Sunday night. A boat was sent Off to her 
with despatches at noon, and in a few minutes the Osborne was 
steaming away fourteen knots an hour, and showing the road to 
Colaba Light-House, leaving her escort to do as well as she 
could without her. The observations at noon gave lat. i;*^ 23' 
N., long. 65^ 35 E. j distance run, 264 miles ; and distance to 
Colaba Light-House, 420 miles. The thermometer stuck to its 
point, 8o°-8i°, with tenacity, night and day, but we are becom- 
ing used to it. The Prince's horses stand the temperature very 
well, and seem none the worse for it when they are taken out 
for their morning's walk up and down the deck. Commander 
Bedford has been introducing some sanitary improvements 
among the Arab stokers, the importance of which has been for- 
cibly impressed on them, and it is to be hoped that their manners 
will also partake of the benefits of these disciplinary reforms. 
The excellent author of the " Sailor's Pocket-Book " would be an 
admirable sedile on shore. 

November 7. — An easterly breeze, blowing just strong enough 
to give a good draught to the furnaces. Divine service on deck 
to-day. The Rev. Canon Duckworth read the lessons and 
preached a short sermon. He was assisted by the Rev. Mr. 
York, chaplain to the Serapis, who composed a simple hymn for 
the voyage, which was sung with fine effect by the trained men, 
officers and crew. As many of the crew as could be accommo- 
dated on the main-deck, the Royal Marines, and the officers, &c., 
were present, and joined in the hymns and responses. All wore 
snowy caps, jackets, and trousers, and the bronzed and bearded 
faces afforded the only relief to the mass of white which filled 
the quarter-deck under the awning. Rarely has a more clean- 
looking, picturesque, or attentive congregation been anywhere 
assembled. The Prince, attended by the military members of 



APPROACHING INDIA. 99 

the suite (blue frock-coats and white trousers, swords and spurs), 
inspected the Marines and Artillery detachment (R.M.A.) on 
the main-deck, and was much pleased with their appearance. 
His Royal Highness also went round main-deck cabins, some 
of which have been by this time worked up to a high degree of 
beauty, especially that of my neighbor, Lord Charles Beresford, 
for the adornment of which Tom Fat has indented on the re- 
sources of the ship in the way of brass-headed nails to an uncon- 
scionable extent. The thermometer hovered about 80°, and 
now and then ran up to 82^. At noon the result of the obser- 
vations,* which were laid as usual by Staff-Commander Goldsmith 
on the saloon table as soon as they were worked out, gave our 
.position as 165 miles from Colaba Light-House, which means 
that we shall see " India " early to-morrow morning, and make 
the landfall somewhere about Bombay — our inheritance from 
Catherine of Braganza, in virtue of her Portuguese dowry. It is 
wonderful, when the comparative ignorance and helplessness of 
those ancient mariners are taken into account, to think how bold- 
ly they sailed those seas, and ventured on *' the great void," so 
full (void as it was) of the terrors which must have beset them 
of the unknown. The knowledge of what had been done before 
them was lost. They were not encouraged by an acquaintance 
with the records of Egyptian exploration, or of later Greek en- 
terprise. M. Mariette asserts that it is beyond gainsaying that 
the Egyptians not only traded from the Red Sea with India, but 
that they sailed down the coast of Africa, doubled the Cape of 
Good Hope, and, turning northwards, reached the Straits of Gib- 
ralter, and so arrived at last at Alexandria, or the port which was 
at the spot where that ancient city now stands. As Archbishop 
Whately said when he was shown the slate on' which St. Kevin 
crossed from Wales to Ireland, and was asked " if he doubted 
the fact .?'" " I cannot say that I do, but I think if he did it St. 
Kevin was a very lucky fellow^ With all our modern science 
and measured mileage of the sea, there was some little anxiety 
among our officers in the small hours about sighting Colaba 
Light-House. " You see, Sir," said an astute navigator, on 



lOO THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

whom the exploits of the ancients were being thrust, " they did 
not know their dangers, and they were bold accordingly ; they 
made no allowances for deviation of compass or set of tides and 
currents, for they were ignorant of them ; and so they were as 
jolly as sand-boys. They had no Lloyds and no Boards of In- 
quiry ; no courts-martial ; and if they went down, there were no 
newspapers to make a howl over them." Practical commentaries 
these on the advantages of the dark ages ! But regarding the 
arrival at Bombay in the light of a certainty, it must be said that 
there was one perpetual prophecy as to the Prince's progress 
which was never falsified. Programmes, indeed, were subjected 
to change, but when the telegraph announced that the Royal 
fleet, or train, or cavalcade, would arrive at such a place on such 
a day, the fulfilment of it was pretty certain. Thus there were 
many advantages gained, and much ease and contentment given 
to those who were to receive and to see the illustrious visitor. 
So it was, too, that words which were not to be spoken or heard 
for many days were read and answers prepared beforehand, so that 
when the P;ince arrived at any point where he was to be greeted 
with a thoughtful and elaborate address of welcome, he was not 
obliged to deliver a hasty and inconsiderate acknowledgment. 
Before the Serapis left Aden it was known what the Corporation 
of Bombay would say to the Prince, and similar foreknowledge 
was obtained, where an impromptu reply would, in many instances, 
have been hazardous. 

The work of getting ready for landing has been going on since 
Friday, and the holds of the Serapis are yielding up mountains of 
cases. The Prince's presents alone form portentous piles between 
decks ; and as to gun cases, boxes of ammunition, portmanteaux, 
boxes of wood and of metal, and all the farrago of a grand shikar 
party, the eye that did not see the stratified masses round which 
valets and mariners and Chinamen hovered, and on which they 
climbed for hours, can never hope to behold the like unless the 
Prince goes to India again. 

It may readily be imagined that the near approach to India 
causes reflection, and fills men's minds with various emotion. 



APPROACHING INDIA. lOI 

Sir Bartle Frere is about to revisit the scene of the labors and 
services of his Kfe, and to see in the city, which is yearning to 
receive him, the substantial proofs of his beneficent administra- 
tion. Major-General Probyn is returning to the country in,which 
he won his spurs ; but he is charged with a load of care which 
he would gladly change for the conduct of a charge at the head 
of his troopers ; because trustful as he is in the divinity that wdll 
hedge the Prince, he knows what dangers are ever lurking in 
that cruel thing called " a crowd," and he has had much to do 
with this expedition. Dr. Fayrer is also about to place his foot 
on the shore of a land where he has worked hard for many years 
of his useful career, and wielded sword and lancet with equal 
assiduity and honor, but on his strong shoulders there rests a 
moral burden and responsibility which he of all men least de- 
preciates. Lord Charles Beresford is familiar with the wild sports 
of the East, and is joyous at the thought of fresh encounters 
with pugnacious " pig " and ferocious tigers, but still more elate 
at the thought of the pleasure it will afford the Prince to " get his 
first spear," and to have a warm corner in the jungle. Lieutenant- 
Colonel Arthur Ellis has served in India, and he looks just now 
as though he were oppressed by awful visions of masses of Ma- 
harajas and Nawabs, and rows of Rajas waiting on shore, hold- 
ing out their hands filled with diamonds, pearls, rubies, emeralds, 
&c., of fabulous value, surrounded by piles of Kinkob, shawls, 
brocade, and all the wealth of Ind, ready to precipitate themselves 
on the Prince^ to each of whom must be given some adequate 
return. When the list of these Potentates was received the 
other day, and the account of the presents they intended to make 
was read, there was a moment's deep despondency and a dec- 
laration of bankruptcy by anticipation was imminent. The other 
members of the suite, with the exception of Lieutenant Fitz- 
George, had all the pleasures of novelty to which to look forward 
— new scenes, new life, new sport, new pursuits. For the Duke 
of Sutherland, who had been diligently " reading up India " dur- 
ing the voyage, there was a store of investigation of natural re- 
sources, studies of agricultural improvements, irrigation, mining, 



102 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



the state of princes and people ; for Lord Alfred Paget there was 
the acquaintance to be made with the manners and customs of 
Native Courts, and the gratifying exercise of an active intelligence 
in observing the habits of an Anglo-Indian life, and in seizing 
the distinctive points which make the Anglo-Indian something 
not quite the same as an Englishman or Englishwoman in India. 
For Lord Suffield there was the pleasant combination of the 
duties of a high officer of state about the person of the Prince, 
and of the pleasures of a keen sportsman — good with rifle and 




THE PRINCE SHOOTING BIRDS ON BOARD 



ANTICIPATIONS. IO3 

gun, and firm in the saddle — in a new field ; and to similar ob- 
ligations, and to the anticipation of similar enjoyment in the 
chase Lord Aylesford and Lord Carington had superadded a 
task imposed by their personal attachment, which happily had no 
need for its exercise. Mr. KnoUys had the certain solace of 
having plenty of work to do, and so in degree each of the voy- 
agers had something to think of — some a great deal. But the 
centre of all, — the Prince, — what of him ? The country he had 
left was still straining its gaze in the track of the ship that bore 
him, still listening with all its ears for the reports of his progress, 
there was no empire or kingdom in Europe which did not take 
note of his journey. There were hundreds of millions of human 
beings waiting to feast their eyes upon him — the whole state of 
Hindostan from the Viceroy to the humblest Sepoy were in ex- 
pectancy of his coming. Well. There was the Prince of Wales 
writing at one of the tables in the saloon, with a pleasant smile 
on his face, — now and then stooping to caress '' Flossy," or to 
address a word to those near him, — perfectly calm and composed, 
the traces of the once natural sadness caused by his parting 
nearly all effaced, — for at every port telegrams come and go, — 
" all is well " at Sandringham and at home,— and he is looking 
forward with resolute dignity to the ordeal which he is told he 
must undergo, and to the opening of the drama in which he is 
not merely the principal but the only figure 




THE BHESTIE, BOMBAY. 



CHAPTER IV. 

BOMBAY. 

First Sight of India — Bombay harboV — The Viceroy and the Governor of 
Bombay — The Landing — The Prince and the Chiefs — The Bombay ad- 
dress and Reply of The Prmce — The Procession — Bombay Streets — The 
burra khana — First Morning in India— First Reception—'* Private Visits " 
— Maharajas of Kolhapoor and Mysore — Maharana of Oodeypoor — Rao 
of Cutch — The Gaekwar of Baroda — Sir Madhava Rao — Sir Salar Jung 
— Rajpoots and others — Rewa Ivanta Chiefs— The Hubshee — Birthday 
FvCJoicings — Unpleasant News — The Thakoors — The Levee — Return 
Visits — Byculla Club Ball — Bombay Jugglers — Box-wallahs — Caves of 
Elephanta-»-The Banquet. 



November 8. — The Colaba Light-House was not sighted as 
early as was anticipated, but the reflection of the light on the 
water could be made out about 1.30 a.m. The ship, being then 
only some 25 miles distant from land, was eased, and at 4 a.m. the 
engines were almost stopped, just going fast enough to keep the 
Serapis in her place till it was time to make the run into the 
harbor of Bombay. The morning was very bright and beautiful. 



" SERAPIS " ENTERS BOMBAY. 10$ 

A glorious sunrise promised one of those fine days which are 
somewhat too common in this part of the world, and the ther- 
mometer marked 80° with a persistency which led the observer 
to think that the instrument must have received a permanent in- 
jury. Soon after 6 a.m. the highlands over Salsette, and the 
Ghauts to the south and east of the city, were plainly visible from 
the ports j the peaks of Elephanta and the Mahratta Queen 
could be made out some time before the masts of the men-of-war 
in the bay could be seen. The Prince came up and stood on the 
bridge, while Captain Searle, the Master-Attendant, who had 
boarded the Serapis outside, explained the principal points of 
interest in the fair landscape. At 8 a.m. the ships of the East 
India Squadron, under his Excellency Rear- Admiral R. J. Mac- 
donald (Commander-in-Chief), viz.. Undaunted (flag), Briton^ 
Daphne, Philomel and Nimbky as well as the harbor iron-clad tur- 
ret-ships Abyssinia and Magdala, and the ships of the Flying or 
Detached Squadron, under Rear- Admiral Rowley Lambert, JVar- 
cissus (flag), Raleigh, Topaze, Doris, and Newcastle, dressed, and 
fired a salute with magnificent effect, though the Serapis was 
rather too far at the time. They lay in echelon in two lines, the 
Indian Squadron on the port, and the Detached Squadron on the 
starboard, side of the grand sea-alley through which the Serapis 
was to pass. Behind the Light-House, which rises out of the sea 
like one of the huge painted candles to be seen in foreign church- 
es, there lay spread out, when the smoke rolled away, the fair 
panorama of the Bay, fenced in by the blue Ghauts, with the 
fleet in front, and enclosing in its arms the great expanse of 
buildings, steeples and houses, which gives some impression of 
the importance of the city of Bombay ; but the scene was once 
more shut out by the rolling cloud of smoke from the broadsides 
and forts, which drifted slowly away before the land breeze 
northward. It was just 9 o'clock when the Serapis, the Prince's 
stately yacht, entered between the lines of the men of-war, the 
marines drawn up and presenting arms, officers in full uniform with 
uncovered heads, and the crews on the yards cheering, ship after 
ship. The fleet then fired another salute, the bands on board 

s* 



I06 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

each ship playing" God save the Queen " and "God bless the 
Prince of Wales." The spectacle is not one to be described. 
There might be naval displays with more lively backgrounds, 
greater life and animation in flying yachts and countless boats 
and steamers, crowded with people and gay with flags, elsewhere, 
but where out of India could be seen such a stretch of coast 
fringed with tropical vegetation and lighted by such a sun ? 

All the arrangements for the reception of the Prince had 
been so thoroughly worked out before the arrival and landing 
that there was scarcely anything that could happen which had 
not been provided for. The order of the procession, the visits 
of the Viceroy and of the Governor, the forms to be observed, 
had all been arranged. When the Serapis came to her moor- 
ings, many boats came off with the members of the Staff of 
the Viceroy and of the Governor, which are, I believe, called 
in India, Deputations, to pay their respects to the illustrious 
guest. 

There had been some little trouble between the authorities 
by sea and land. A Commander-in-Chief on the East Indian 
Station and an Excellency afloat in harbor was something new 
at Bombay, and the Governor and Council had assigned Rear- 
Admiral Macdonald a place in the order of dignitaries on the 
opening day, whi h he would not accept, feeling that he repre- 
sented in his person and office the honor of the service. To 
show how far below the Prince of Wales the greatest was, the 
Commander-in-Chief declared he could not salute Viceroy or 
Governor once the Royal Standard was flying in harbor ; but all 
these clouds were happily dispersed in the end, and the Admiral's 
rights and office were recognized, and Viceroy and Governor had 
their salutes in due course. 

Six hours elapsed between the arrival of the Serapis in har- 
bor and the reception of the Viceroy on board, but there was 
plenty to be done and to be seen meantime— constant arrivals 
of persons of greater or less importance, visitors, persons on 
business. Sir Bartle Frere being especially in request. The offi- 
cers to whom the Prince and the Royal party were so deeply in- 



PREPARING TO LAND. IO7 

debted for their comfort and well-being came on board and were 
introduced to his Royal Highness. They were Major-General 
Sam Browne, V. C, Major Ben. Williams, Major Bradford, and 
Major Sartorius, V. C. The first-named officer was charged 
with all the transport arrangements, trains, carriages, baggage, 
and the like. The second was entrusted with the care of the 
stud-horses, syces, &c. The third had, perhaps, the most diffi- 
cult and arduous post, for he had to look after the safety of the 
Prince's person, and to act as the head of the police. The fourth 
had the control of the tents and valetaille and service of the 
Royal camps. Among these four officers there were two Vic- 
toria Crosses and only six arms, for " Sam " Browne had lost 
one of his in an action near the Rohilcund Terai near the end 
of the Mutiny, and Major Bradford had to suffer the loss of one 
by amputation, in consequence of injuries received from a wound- 
ed tiger. There are few men whose four hands could do as 
much work as these gallant soldiers managed with only two. 
Major Henderson, who has been specially attached to the Prince 
because of his great attainments as a linguist and of his acquaint- 
ance with Oriental etiquette and knowledge of Native Courts, 
was also admitted to an audience. There was need to land and 
despatch the baggage in advance, excellently managed by the ex- 
perienced servants entrusted with it. The ship between decks 
presented quite as bustling and lively an appearance as the har- 
bor outside, where native boats of novel shape and rig, laden to 
the water's edge, and steam-launches and men-of-war's-men fur- 
rowed the water between the lines of shipping. The Serapis, 
gazed at eagerly by tens of thousands, whom we could see on 
shore, and by the multitudes on board the vessels moored in the 
stately bay, was the centre of all eyes. The two Rear-Admirals, 
Macdonald and R. Lambert, and senior officers of the fleet were 
received at 10 a.m., soon after the vessel anchored. There was 
lunch to which several of the visitors were invited at the usual 
hour. It was now nearly 3 o'clock, and those in attendance on 
ihc Prince were told off to their places, for Lord Northbrook, 
Viceroy and Governor-General, was about to make his appear- 



I08 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

ance on board. Shortly before that hour a salute from a battery 
on shore, immediately taken up by the ships of both the squad- 
rons and by the floating batteries, announced that his Excellency 
had embarked at the Dockyard ; and presently a barge with the 
Viceroy's standard was seen approaching, and, punctual to the 
moment, the Governor-General stepped on board, and was re- 
ceived with all the honors due to his official rank. Lord North- 
brook was attended by Mr. Aitchison, Secretary of the Foreign 
Department, by several members of his personal staff, the Mili- 
tary Secretary, Colonel Earle, his private secretary, Captain 
Baring, &c. He was conducted by Lord Suffield between lines 
of the Prince's aides-de-camp and suite along the corridor of the 
main-deck, which was covered with scarlet cloth, to the compan- 
ion leading to the saloon, at the top of which stood his Royal 
Highness. 

There had been some sort of notion abroad that the meeting 
of the Prince and the Viceroy would be attended with difficulties 
affecting their relative position and precedence — not in rank, 
because of that there could be no question — but in state cere- 
monial before the world ; but it was at once evident that such 
anticipations were unfounded, and that the Prince of Wales and 
Lord Northbrook perfectly understood what was due to them- 
selves and to each other ; nor was there, I believe, as far as they 
were concerned, the smallest interruption to the perfect entente 
established at the very commencement of their intercourse, al- 
though an inadvertent interference of one of the Viceregal Staff 
at one time caused temporary annoyance. 

The Prince, having presented the members of his suite to the 
Viceroy, who in turn presented his Staff to his Royal Highness, 
retired to a Sofa with him, and engaged in conversation for 
some time. Presently it was perceived from the commotion at 
the landing-place in the Dockyard that the Governor was about 
to embark. At 3.25 p.m. the saluting battery commenced again, 
and Sir Philip Wodehouse was seen coming off to the ship. He 
was attended by the Commander-in-Chief of the Presidency, 
Lieutenant-General Sir Charles Staveley, the members of Council, 



THE LANDING AT BOMBAY. IO9 

among whom were two Parsee gentlemen, Mr. Wodehouse, his 
private secretary, and his aide-de-camp. He was received by 
the Prince with much kindness. The usual presentations were 
made. In half an hour his Excellency took leave, and returned 
to the Dockyard to join those who were waiting for the landing 
of the Prince. 

When it was time for his royal Highness to set his foot on 
the shores of India, on which we had been gazing all day, there 
was some curiosity to observe in what order the Prince and 
Viceroy would take their seats, but according to marine views, 
whether by accident or not, Lord Northbrook unquestionably 
gave precedence to his guest, for he stepped on board the 
launch first, and remained standing until the Prince had descend- 
ed the companion and had taken his place beside him in the 
stern of the boat. Once more the cannon spoke, the crews aloft 
cheered, bands played, marines and guards of honor- on deck 
presented arms, officers saluted as the Royal Standard passed 
each man-of-war, and from all the shipping uprose a mighty 
shout. The Prince's barge was preceded by boats bearing the 
members of the suite, who had to land before him. Looking 
back from one of these, a noble pageant, lighted up by a declin- 
ing sun, met the eye — the hulls of the fleet, bright streamers and 
banners, long rows of flags from yard to yard and mast to mast, 
white boats, a flotilla of steam-launches, gigs, pinnaces, and a 
crowd of onlookers hastening fast as oar could send them in 
wake of the Royal barge to the Dockyard. 

The flotilla sped on shorewards. A vast triumphal arch, 
spanning the water-way between two piers, but gay with banners, 
branches and leaves, and with decorations of palm and cocoa-nut, 
appeared in front of us. It could not be imagined that this dock- 
yard stair in its normal state was one of the most commonplace 
and ugly of landings. But it had now not only been decked 
out with all the resources of art, which in this land are various 
and fantastic, but there was assembled beneath its great span 
perhaps the most strange and picturesque assemblage ever seen 
of late days in any part of the world. On each side of the way, 



no THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

under the vaulted roof, were long lines of benches rising in tiers, 
draped with scarlet cloth. This material was also laid down 
on the avenue to the gate, a hundred yards away, where the 
carriages were waiting. In the front rows sat or stood, in eager 
expectance. Chiefs, Sirdars and native gentlemen of the Presi- 
dency, multitudes of Parsees, rows of Hindoos, Mahrattas, and 
Mohammedans dressed in their best, — which was oftenest their 
simplest, — a crowd glittering with gems and presenting, as they 
swayed to and fro to catch sight of the Prince, the appearance 
of bright enamel, or of a bed of gay flowers agitated by a gentle 
breeze — the officers of the Government, the Corporation with its 
address, the Municipal body of Bombay, and the naval and mil- 
itary officers who could be spared, representatives of the facul- 
ties, corporate bodies, dignitaries, and all the ladies who could 
be found within the radius of some hundreds of miles, and who 
had hastened to greet the Prince with their best smiles and bon- 
nets. An abundance of sweet-smelling flowers, many of rarity, 
was displayed in pots along the avenue, and others commingled 
with shrubs of new forms were arranged in masses near the en- 
trance — banners hung from the roof, — words of " Welcome," in 
various characters were inscribed in gold over the entrance. I 
shall say nothing of the appearance of the Chiefs just now, inas- 
much as there will be plenty to write of them hereafter. 

The mode in which the Prince was to make his first appear- 
ance before the Queen's subjects in India had been the subject 
of some consideration and discussion. Oriental ideas of dignity 
and grandeur, which insensibly acquire influence over the minds 
of Europeans after a residence in the country, suggested that 
splendidly caparisoned elephants would form the most fitting 
mode of carriage for the Prince, the Viceroy, the high officials 
and their suites in his Royal Highness' procession through the 
city to the Government House at Parell. The animals were all 
ready, but it was resolved not to adopt the Indian custom. As 
alternatives, there were carriages, or a cavalcade. The latter 
would have been the most effective manner of entry. It would, 
as we now know, have given the people more satisfaction, and 



THE PRINCE AND THE CHIEFS. Ill 

would have enabled them to identify the Prince with greater 
ease • but such an ordeal as a ride of six or seven miles or more 
through rivers of illuminations would have been more than hu- 
man nature could have undergone, even if equine patience would 
have endured it. So it was decided that the entry should be 
made in carriages. A reference to the Appendix will show what 
were the official regulations, and it must be said, considering the 
difficulties which are found in enforcing arrangements of the 
kind, that they were well observed. 

When the Prince came on shore, the anxiety of the Chiefs to 
see him was almost painful. For once they were much agitated, 
and the proudest departed from the cover of their habitual re- 
serve, and from the maintenance of that staid deportment which 
the Oriental Turveydrop considers the best proof of high State 
and regal dignity. The Prince was at first shut out from their 
view, or was only revealed at times in the centre of a waving mass 
of cocked hats, plumed helmets, uniforms, European dresses, 
in which he was scarcely distinguishable; but when they could 
identify him, the frankness of his smile, and the candid look with 
which he surveyed them, produced on the instant a favorable 
imi^ression, and when he paused to return their salutations, with 
hand uplifted to his helmet, a closer inspection more than con- 
firmed the idea which their quick perception of character enabled 
them to form of his courtliness. 

Some who saw the Prince as he landed thought they observed 
that he had a graver cast of countenance than was habitual with 
him a few years ago, and said they did not know whether to at- 
tribute it to the sun, which was unusually hot for the time of 
year, or to the emotion caused by the novelty and grandeur of 
the scene, accustomed as he was to such sights. Others wrote 
that " he seemed serious and even sad of aspect " as he walked 
up the landing-stage from the Royal barge, and that he " return- 
ed the salutations which greeted him with a preoccupied air that 
betrayed emotions working within." But at all events his an- 
swer to the address of the Corporation was delivered with the 
utmost clearness of elocution, and in a manner which gained the 



112 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

hearts of those who saw him, if, indeed, they at all required any 
gaining. 

When the strains of " God save the Queen " died away in the 
hum of many voices, the Corporation, the members of which had 
been eagerly awaiting for the moment, advanced, headed by Do- 
sabhoy Framjee," the Parsee chairman, in the pure white robes in 
which his race rejoice, and in the head-dress worn by his people, 
which the prince had already noticed at Aden. He said : 

" May it please your Royal Highness,— * 

" We, the Chairman and Members of the Municipal Corporation of Bombay, 
esteem it a high privilege to be allowed in the name of the Corporation and 
of all the inhabitants of this City to greet your Royal Highness at your land- 
ing on the shore of India, with an address of loyal welcome. We rejoice that 
your Royal Highness should have selected Bombay as the starting-point of 
your Indian travels ; for this city is in itself perhaps the most striking example 
India can present of the beneficial results that may be produced by the impact 
of Western Civilization on Oriental character and institutions, and of the suc- 
cess that may attend earnest and ludicious efforts to reconcile all the various 
races of this country to British rule. 

"Bombay may lay claim to the distinction of being a Royal city, for this 
island first became an appanage of the Crown of England through forming 
part of the dowry of Charles II. 's Portuguese bride, and during the two cen- 
turies that have since elapsed, Bombay has had every reason to be grateful for 
this fortunate change in her destiny. From a barren rock, whose only wealth 
consisted in cocoa-nuts and dried fish, whose scanty population of 10,000 
souls paid a total revenue to the state of not more that than 6000/. a year, 
whose trade was of less value than that of Tanna and Bassein, and whose 
climate was so deadly to Europeans that two monsoons were said to be the 
life of a man, she has blossomed into a fair and wholesome city, with a popu- 
lation that makes her rank next to London among the cities of the British 
Empire, with a municipal revenue amounting to 300. 000/0 a year, and with a 
foreign commerce worth fully forty-five millions, and yielding m customs' du- 
ties to the Imperial Treasury three millions a year. All this material pros- 
perity she owes to the strong and wise Government which has secured her in 
the enjoyment of peace and order, of equality before the law, of religious lib- 
erty, and of freedom of trade, and has thus given confidence to men of all 
races and creeds — European, Indo-Portuguese, Hindus, Mohammedans, Par- 
sees, and Jews — to pursue their various callings uwder the shadow of the 
British flag. 

" We gladly, therefore, seize the occasion of your Royal Highness's pres- 



THE BOMBAY ADDRESS AND THE PRINCES REPLY. II3 

ence amongst us to record our sense of the blessings of British rule, and to 
assure your Royal Highness of our devotion to the throne which has become 
the enduring symbol of concord, liberty, prosperity, and progress to all 
the multitude of nations that own the benign sway of Queen Victoria. We 
beg that your Royal Highness will convey to her most Gracious Majesty 
the expression of our loyal sentiments and of our gratification that her Majesty 
has sent the heir to the Crown amongst us to become personally acquainted 
with the people of India. We regret that your Royal Highness's Consort, the 
Princess of Wales, so much and so deservedly beloved by the English people, 
has not been able to accompany your Royal Highness on this journey, to learn 
for herself in what honor her name is neld in India. We pray that the God 
of all nations may watch over your Royal Highness, and bring your happy de- 
sign of visiting India, of which we to-day witness the auspicious commence- 
ment, to as happy a conclusion, so that it may be blest with good fruit here- 
after in the strengthening of the ties of mutual interest, esteem and good-will 
which already bind the Imperial State of Great Britain to its greatest depend- 
ency. 

Given under the Common Seal of the Municipal Corporation of Bombay, 

Chairman. 
Secretary and Clerk, 

The Prince's reply was happily conceived. He said : — 

" It is a great pleasure to me to begin my travels in India at a place so 
long associated with the Royal Family of England, and to find that during so 
many generations of British rule this great port has steadily prospered. Your 
natural advantages would have insured a large amount ot commerce under 
any strong Government ; but in your various and industrious population I 
gladly recognize the traces of a rule which gives shelter to all who obey the 
laws, which recognizes no invidious distinctions of race, which affords to all 
perfect liberty in matters of religious opinion and belief, and freedom in the 
permit of trade and of all lawful callings. I note with satisfaction the assur- 
ance I derive from your address, that under British rule men of varied 
creeds and nations live in harmony among themselves, and develop to the ut- 
most those energies which they inherit from widely separate families of man- 
kind, whilst all join in loyal attachment to the British Crown, and take their 
share, as in my native country, in the management of their own local affairs. 
I shall gladly communicate to Her Majesty what you so loyally and kmdly 
say regarding the pleasure which the people of India derive from her Majesty's 
gracious permission to me to visit this part of her Majesty'^ Empire. I assure 
you that the Princess of Walcc has never ceased to shar- my regret that she 
was unable xo accompany me. She has from her very earliest years taken the 
most lively interest inthia great country, and the cordiality of your greeting 
this day will make her yet more regret the impossibility of her sharing in per- 
son the pleasure your welcome afforded me." 

8 



114 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Then the Prince, with Lord Northbrook by his sidfe, advanced 
slowly along the carpeted avenue, at the end of which a band of 
Parsee girls in white were awaiting him with garlands and bas- 
kets of flowers. He stopped from time to time to speak to the 
Princes who were presented to him by the Viceroy, the first 
being Sir Salar Jung, who is only a Prime Minister, but who repre- 
sented the State of Hyderabad. He shook hands with most of 
them, and was especially gracious to the younger Chiefs, sympa- 
thizing perhaps with the cares which must fall on such young 
shoulders in time to come. Each Chief had his Mentor, his 
" Political," by his side, and had a setting of Sirdars around and 
behind him. A bystander wrote • — " Even the Mahratta Sirdars, 
who have not much besides their dignity to stand upon, were 
charmed, apparently, with the gracious presence and winning 
smile of the future Emperor of India ; and when he spoke to 
each of them in turn and seemed to take a real interest in them, 
even Oodeypoor smoothed his troubled brow, and forgot his 
grievance against the Government which had set the Gaekwar 
above him. We doubt if a native noble left the pavilion without 
feeling gratified at the notice taken of him ; and it only shows 
what a mighty power lies hid in that little word ' tact,' when a 
kind smile and a courteous phrase can efface in a moment the 
remembrance of innumerable imagined slights inflicted by a^ 
generation of stiff-necked and narrow-minded officials." 

Those of his suite who had to enter the carriages in advance 
had actually left the shed before the Prince landed. There is 
one inconvenience attendant on the position of those who are 
taking part in a procession. It is that they see very little of it — 
they are seen (and they are unable to ascertain whether that 
produces a gratifying effect on the beholders or not) ; but on 
such an occasion they may be sure that they are regarded with 
the utmost indifference, if, indeed, they are not looked upon 
with absolute contempt and dislike as mere obstructions and im- 
pediments to the full enjoyment of the one great object which 
all have come to behold. I am enabled to write nothing of what 
happened in the Dockyard on the landing except from hearsay. 



THE PROCESSION. II5 

But of what I saw from the landing-place to Government House 
I am able to record my own impressions. Any spectator along 
the line of way could give a much more interesting narrative and 
describe more fully the effect of the procession itself. By one 
of these it was compared to a Doge's wedding as represented in 
the old pictures, save that it was on land instead of water, and 
that the Bucentaur passed between masses of human beings 
instead of gliding down canals lined by gondolas. That may be 
far-fetched. Of one matter, however, connected with this pro- 
cession I cannot speak in terms of praise. There was no music : 
there was, indeed, the band of the 3d Hussars, but it was silent. 
The band of the 7th Fusiliers was at the landing. On such an 
occasion as this nothing would have been more inspiriting than 
the performance of martial music by mounted bands placed at 
intervals in the line of the procession, nor would it have been 
amiss had there been a greater disjolay of cavalry and even of 
foot regiments, for the pace was not so fast as to have taxed the 
powers of marching, and the effect of the spectacle would have 
been enormously enhanced by such an addition. 

The Prince emerged from the Dockyard — a salute was fired 
by the artillery, and the procession, the head (in the sense of the 
beginning) of which had already awakened the curiosity of dense 
multitudes a mile in advance, moved forward, and those who 
were by nine carriage-lengths ahead of the vehicle of State, in 
which the Prince and Viceroy were seated, heard a roar piercing 
through the wild tumult of voices for a moment, as a gun at sea 
breaks through the noise of wind and wave. At every station in 
India had been heard a Royal salute where guns were to be 
found to fire it, and it may be safely said " that never was there 
so wide-spread and noisy announcement of any event made 
known to so many people at the same time as the arrival of the 
Prince of Wales in India." 

The impression produced by the aspect of the streets can 
scarcely be conveyed in any form of words ; certainly if one 
were to try to set the sights down on paper, he might well be 
puzzled. He would have to give an account of every yard of the 



Il6 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

many miles through which the Prince passed, each presenting ex- 
traordinary types of dress and effects of color. There was some 
thing almost supernatural in those long vistas winding down banks 
of variegated light, crowded with gigantic creatures tossing their 
arms aloft, and indulging in extravagant gesture, which the eye 
— baffled by rivers of fire, blinded with the glare of lamps, 
blazing magnesium wire, and pots of burning matter — sought in 
vain to penetrate. For the most part the streets indulge in gentle 
curves, and as the carriages proceeded slowly, new effects con- 
tinually opened up ; and fresh surprises came upon one, from 
point to point, till it was a relief to close the eyes out of sheer 
satiety, and to refuse to be surprised any more. After several 
miles of these melodramatic effects, no wonder there was an 
inclination to look for one welcome little patch of darkness to 
receive us in its grateful recesses ere the night was over. Cer- 
tainly it was a spectacle worth going far to see — the like of it 
will never probably be seen again. This is generally said of any 
spectacle of any unusual magnificence, or of extraordinary grand- 
eur ; but taking it all in all, I believe that very few who witnessed 
the sight would care to miss it, or to go through it all once more. 
To the spectators, no doubt, the passage of the cortege of the 
Prince, who was the central point on which all eyes turned, pre- 
sented an absorbing attraction. But it was a pleasure which 
lasted but for a moment, for the carriage was soon out of sight ; 
and then silence gave way to the noisy interchange of ideas as 
to what had been seen, for there was no certainty among the 
mass of natives respecting the Prince's place in the procession. 
To those who were passing between these animated banks of 
human beings, there came at last an ennui, and a sense of same- 
ness, although, as I have said, every single yard of the way was 
marked by many distinctive types. Who could take them all in ? 
Windows filled with Parsee women — matrons, girls, and children 
— the bright hues of whose dresses, and the brilliancy of whose 
jewels, emulated the colored fires burning along the pavement — 
scarcely attracted one's notice before it was challenged by the 
next house filled with a crowd of devout Mohammedans, or by a 



BOMBAY STREETS. II7 

Hindoo temple opposite, with its Brahmins and its votaries on 
steps and roof j flanked appropriately by a Jew Bazaar, or by an 
Armenian store, or by the incongruity of a European warehouse , 
or was Solicited by the grotesque monitors on a Jain Temple. 
For if the changes in the chess-board are so numerous as to 
furnish matter for profoundest calculations, the extraordinary 
varieties of race and population in Bombay present endless sub- 
jects for study, to which only one thing was now wanting — ade- 
quate time. Night had long fallen ; at last the whisper came 
from the front and ran down the line — " We are nearly at home," 
and Parell received the Prince with all due honor, the most 
illustrious of the many guests who have been sheltered under the 
roof of the old Jesuit convent. 

Up to the gates of the Park, illuminations and crowded 
thoroughfares, guards of honor, and salutes once more, and an 
official instalment in the mansion which was ablaze with lights 
and prepared for the occasion with the utmost regard to effect 
—clusters of turbaned scarlet-coated servitors in the hall and (5n 
the steps, the Governor's Body-Guard lining the corridor and 
staircases, and now the day was to be wound up by a banquet 
in the Great Hall. 

The accommodation afforded by Parell is not very extensive, 
although the dining-room is exceedingly fine and large, and 
the State apartments sufficiently imposing ; but any way, it was 
necessary that the greater number of those in attendance on 
the Prince should be accommodated in tents ; and on each side 
of a broad avenue, formed by noble trees, there was a fair camp 
prepared for their reception, with crowds of servants waiting to 
be engaged " on approbation" — Portuguese boys, in blue jackets 
and white trousers, nnd Bombay natives, contending for choice. 
Outside the main street of the camp were tents for the servants; 
for a Battery of Artillery, and for a detachment of the 2d 
Queen's Royals, and the quarters of the vast miscellaneous 
gathering of people which is inevitable at any centre of power 
and authority in India. The tents were ready — ^beds, tables, 
chairs, washing apparatus, lamps, tubs, but alas ! there was one 



Il8 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

drawback. The soil was nor very dry, and the tents were pitch- 
ed on wooden platforms, which did not afford very equable 
support, and as one walked, the planks went up and down, 
giving a general impression of an earthquake about the premises. 
Then, too, there were horrible suspicions of snakes, for Parell is 
built close to a swamp, and the lower part of the lawn may be 
said to melt into it. 

The description of a dinner-party, even of the grandest, 
cannot be made interesting. The impression produced by the 
change of color and of costume of the domestics at a burra 
khana does not last very long, or, if it does not subside rapidly, 
it is overcome by irritation at an appearance of alacrity and 
prompt obedience which is falsified by results ; but the novelty 
of the scene at Sir Philip Wodehouse's table, where the glare 
of Indian liveries and the picturesque effects of Oriental attire 
were seen for the first time, must have been by the strangers. 
Besides the Governor's servants in their fine turbans and robes, 
there was in attendance a small battalion of those engaged for 
the Prince, in new liveries of the native fashion — a flat white- 
head-dress, with a broad band of gold lace running diagonally 
from the scarlet top to the side, scarlet surcoats buttoned to 
the throat, richly embroidered with gold lace and the Prince's 
plumes in silver on the breast, laced on the sleeves, edged with 
gold lace, and confined by rich cummerbunds, but — " desinet in 
piscem " — the glittering personages so fine above wore thin 
white trousers, and went barefooted. Those specially attached 
to the Prince's service were fine-looking fellows, and so com- 
pletely devoted to their work, that they would have seen all the 
company die of hunger sooner than give them a morsel. One 
there was whose place and duty it was to stand behind the 
Royal chair with a long fan to chase away the flies. Two others 
were engaged on State occasions to cool the air by the slow 
lateral movements of the great hand-punkahs. So far as I 
remember, there was only one Indian noble of high rank at the 
feast, and that was Sir Salar Jung. 

The health of the Queen was drunk with extraordinary en- 



1 



THE BURRA KHANA. II9 

thiisiasm, but the few words which prefaced the health of the 
Prince of Wales were followed by what in such company might 
be described as a storm of applause. There was a State recep- 
tion in the grand drawing-room up stairs after the banquet, and 
the Prince remained till near midnight, conversing with the 
various guests with unflagging energy, but the departure of the 
Viceroy for Malabar Point was the signal for the breaking-up of 
the company. Not one of the least of the strange sights to-night 
was that afforded outside by the carriages, and the lights of the 
running footmen in attendance on them, which reminded oik 
of what might have been seen in the neighborhood of Coven' 
Garden, or of the Grand Opera in Paris on the night of a fancy 
ball. The heat did not abate, and it contributed not a little 
to the exhaustion of the labors of the day, and to the ef 
fects of the passage through the fiery furnace of the streets. 
There were few even of the youngest who did not rejoice when 
it was time to walk down the steps of the Government House 
and make their way along the avenue of trees to their tents, 
where the watchful " boys " were sitting ghostlike in their white 
robes, waiting to see their masters to bed. There was an ap- 
pearance in the sky over the city as of a great fire. Camp fires 
blazed around. " Is it not all like the description in the ' In- 
ferno,' " observed a friend to me, " where the poet says — 

" * Sovra tutto '1 sabbion d'un cader lento, 
Pioven di fuoco dilatate falde, 
Come di neve in alpe sanza vento. 
Quali Alessandro in quelle parti calde 
D'India vede sovra lo suo stuolo 
Fiamme cadere infino a terra salde ? ' " 

- There was the stir of an army not yet reposing. Challenges 
of sentries, neighing and clatter of horses, and from afar came 
the dull beat of drums and the monotonous chants of the camp- 
followers outside Parell, for these are very night birds. " Boy ! 
Close the tent ! Bund-Kharo ! Good-night ! " 

November 9.^ Very early risers must men be who want to work 
in India, if not elsewhere. Once more in a tent, with black faces 



I20 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

all around one ! People and trees and surroundings all different 
— mango-trees and mango-birds, the gold mohur-tree, cocoa-nut 
and toddy-trees (Borassus Jlabelliformis), the wheeling kites over- 
head — higher still, the soaring vultures — the cry of the great 
woodpecker, and the chattering of the familiar minar — a new 
land, but a glance revealed that you were in India, and you felt 
it too. There is the Head-quarters' barber, in a great red Mah- 
ratta turban, waiting outside — a handsome smooth-faced fellow, 
who makes his English go a long way, and who is a master in his 
art, though his fingers are deadly cold, and he is for his trade over 
fond of garlic. Him, be sure, you will never lose sight of as long as 
you are in India. There is the bheestie with his water-skin, ready 
to fill your tub. There is the syce with your horse outside, if 
you are minded for a morning ride. There is the sweeper hover- 
ing in the distance, the khelassies or tent-pitchers awaiting orders, 
the khitmutgar with a cup of coffee, and the Bombay " boy " — in 
my case one Jivan, — a slight, quiet, demure-looking man. of forty 
or sc, — who has already taken possession of my property — boxes, 
bags, clothes, money and all — to the intense astonishment of 
^Maclachlan, who would have resisted his assumptions by force, 
but that I told him it was the custom of the country. These 
and others. Each tent is a centre of existence to seven or 
eight of the people called " Natives," to whom you are for the time 
being lord and master. The impudent and' irrepressible crows, 
which are already marking you for their own, are taking accurate 
note of your proceedings and studying your character from the 
branches of the mango-tree overhead, and have been trying your 
patience by making a prodigious cawing and croaking on the top 
of your tent. Looking up the grand avenue toward Parell, you see 
the sentries pacing before the portico, the Royal Standard floating 
overhead, and the Sowars mounted and ready for duty outside. 
There are busy groups of people before every tent on each side 
of the main street, and word comes round that in a couple of 
hours breakfast will be served, and that, two hours later, every one 
is to be in uniform, in readiness to assist at the reception of the 
Princes and Chiefs in Government House. 



THE FIRST MORNING IN INDIA. 121 

There was but little time to look around one, although the 
shade of the noble trees in the garden at the back of Government 
House, and the display of new plants and flowers, and the lake^ 
with its terraced margin were very tempting, and made one envy 
General Probyn his quarters in the detached bungalow inside. 
The Prince of Wales's birthday is to be duly honored all over 
Hindostan India at noon ; and the first object which greeted his 
eyes this morning was a portrait of the Princess, which had been 
entrusted to Sir Bartle Frere for this happy occasion. Probably 
he never had a more trying day, for, accustomed as he has been 
to the performance of nearly all the duties of Royalty and to ad- 
minister its functions, his Royal Highness had now to make him- 
self acquainted, at very short notice with formalities of a novel 
character, to which the greatest importance was attached, and be 
fore the eyes of a most sensitive and watchful Court of Princes 
and Chiefs, who had been accustomed to such routine all their 
lives, he had to go through ceremonies which, if not ridiculous, 
struck a stranger as frivolous or unmeaning. The heat even at 
8 A.M. was quite sufficient to warn us that we were in India, and 
yet the Prince was obliged to wear a uniform of European cloth, 
laden with lace and buttoned up to the throat, and to stand and 
sit for hours, going through the same kind of labor with each of 
the Rajas whom he received, who after a time must have seemed 
very much like the same people who had just left the room and 
were come back again — figures lighted up with jewels, followed by 
crowds in white robes and gay head-dresses. A little before lo a.m. 
the members of the suite who were not on out door duty were 
directed to repair to the inner audience chamber on the drawing- 
room floor of Government House. At the entrance stood two 
gorgeous people in scarlet and gold surcoats and turbans, 
with massive gilt implements in their hands. Servants, similarly 
clad, with gilt batons of curious form held like swords, were ranged 
along the sides of the room. Twenty-four chairs were placed 
on the left of the silver Throne which had been prepared for the 
Prince at the end of the room on a cloth of scarlet and gold. Be- 
hind this seat stood four servitors — two with peacocks' feathers 



122 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

and horse-tails, and two with the broad fans, familiar to every one 
who has seen a picture of an Oriental reception ; which were 
moved by the bearers to and fro on the long stems on which 
they were resting. On the right of the Prince s Throne twenty- 
four chairs were ranged, with a second rank behind. On the wall 
behind the Throne was a portrait of the Queen. In front, and 
extending about three -fourths of the length of the room or hall, 
was " the Carpet," which plays such a large part in Durbars 
The programmes do not use that word on the present occasion, 
and style the ceremonies of to-day "private visits." It was men- 
tioned in the early correspondence on the subject, that the Prince 
could not hold " Durbars ; " but it would have been very difficult 
to have detected much distinction between these and the private 
visits, except in the fact that the Chiefs were introduced separ- 
ately and had separate audiences. Thus certain grave questions 
connected with precedence were evaded. But the " carpet " was 
there — the kudometer, if the word may be coined, by which Vice- 
roys and others measure the degree of consideration and honor 
which is assigned to the durbarees, or those entitled to be re- 
ceived in Durbars. In the centre of the purple or crimson cloth, 
which was provided with gold-lace borders, there was an embla- 
zonment of the Royal Arms and motto in full. It is with refer- 
ence to the outer edge of this carpet, and to the exact number of 
steps taken by Prince or Viceroy from the Throne along it that 
the rank of the visitor is determined. 

As yet the Prince of Wales has only been seen by the mul- 
titude, and has only exchanged a few words with the Chiefs. 
He has been surounded by Europeans and has been at a " Burra 
khana." Now he is to receive those Chiefs who have come 
from all parts of the vast Presidency, larger and more populous 
than many kingdoms. They have already had a kind of re- 
hearsal, for the Viceroy has held a Durbar at which, mutatis 
mutandis^ every form has been observed which will be followed 
to-day. 

Be good enough to read this official document, and you will 
see what is laid down. It is "No. I., Programme for the 



THE FIRST RECEPTION. 123 

reception of His Highness the Raja of Kolhapoor by His 
Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, No. I., Foreign Depart- 
ment," dated Bombay, 6th Nov. 1875, and addressed to " Political 
Officers concerned," and others. It runs thus : 

" At 10 A. M. on Tuesday, the 9th November, 1875, ^is Royal Highness 
the Prince of Wales will receive a private visit from his Highness the Raja 
of Kolhapoor. 

" The Raja will be accompanied by nine of his principal Sirdars and 
by the officer on duty with the Raja, and will be escorted from his residence 
by a party of cavalry. 

" Major R. W. Sartorius and one of the Prince's aides-de-camp will pro^ 
ceed on horseback 500 yards from Government House, Parell, to receive and 
conduct the Raja to the Prince's residence. 

" Major P. D. Henderson and an aide-de-camp will receive the Raja as 
he alights from his carriage, and will conduct him to his Royal Highness's 
presence. 

" The prince will receive his Highness at the edge of the carpet, shake 
hands with him, and conduct him to a seat on his right hand. 

" On the right of the Raja will sit the officer on duty with the Raja, and 
the Sirdars in attendance on his Highness according to their rank. 

" The other British officers present will sit on the Prince's left, in the 
order of their rank. 

"After a few minutes' conversation the attendant Sirdars will be intro^ 
duced by Major Sartorius, and will present the usual nuzzurs, which will 
be touched and remitted. 

" Uttur and pan will then be given to the Raja by the Prince. Major 
Henderson will present uttur and pan to the principal attendant Sirdars, and 
Major Sartorius to the others. 

" On the departure of the Raja, the Prince will conduct his Highness to 
the edge of the carpet ; Major Henderson and an aide-de-camp will accom- 
pany his Highness to his carriage ; Major Sartorius and an aide-de-canip to 
a distance of 500 yards from Government House ; and a party of cavalry 
as far as his Highness's residence. 

" A salute of 19 guns will be fired on the arrival and departure of the 
Raja. 

" A guard of honor will be drawn up in front of Government House, And 
will present arms as the Raja passes. 

" Full Uniform to be worn, 

" P. D. Henderson. 
''Political Officer on the Staff of 
** His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales" 



124 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

The Prince came into the Throne-room shortly before the 
time fixed for the first reception. He looked at the gorgeous 
Chair of State with its golden arms, one representing a lion, the 
other a bull, as if he thought it was somewhat too fine. The 
Duke of Sutherland, in blue and silver, wearing the Riband 
of the Garter; Major-General Lord Alfred Paget in uniform 
of Major-General ; Sir Bartle Frere in official uniform, with the 
Riband of the Star of India ; Lord Suffield in State uniform as 
head of the Prince's Household ; Major-General Probyn 
(uniform, Equerry) ; Colonel O. Williams (uniform. Royal 
Horse Guards) ; Lieut.-Colonel Ellis (uniform, Equerry) ; Lord 
Carington (uniform, Royal Horse Guards) ; the Earl Ayles- 
ford (Yeomanry) ; Lord C. Beresford (uniform, Lieut. R. N.) 
Dr. Fayrer (uniform, Surgeon-Major) Mr. Knollys. (House- 
hold), and others; some on the Prince's left hand in order; 
others on duty outside ; and others, again engaged in the 
trying task of galloping up and down in the hot sun in 
attendance on Rajas, were all in their places. 

A little before lo a. m. the guns of the R. A. battery in 
the Park outside began to fire a salute, and before we could 
count the nineteen coups to which his Highness is entitled, 
the Raja of Kolhapoor drove up to the front of Parell House 
with a great flourish in a grand carriage drawn by four horses, 
with servants in beautiful liveries of blue and silver, and a mag- 
nificent fan-bearer behind, wielding a blazing machine to keep 
the sun away. He was received as per programme, led up the 
steps into the Hall, so up the grand staircase lined with the 
Governor's servitors — then into the corridors, and so conducted 
to the entrance of the Throne-room. There he stood for a 
moment. But inexorable fate in the shape of Major Hender- 
son led him forward towards the Prince, who had risen and 
advanced with great dignity down the carpet to meet him. 
At the edge he stretched forth his hand and took that of the 
Raja, whom he drew towards him kindly. After the Raja 
trooped the Sirdars, each holding his sword by the sheath, 
which has neither straps buckle nor slings, and is thrust into 



THE MAHARAJAH OF KOLHAPOOR. 125 

the cummerband when it is borne in action. A few phrases of 
courtesy were exchanged between the Shahzadah and the de- 
cendant of Sivajee (who can tell how many degrees removed ?), 
adopted by the amiable Prince of Kolhapoor who died six years 
ago. Chatrapati Maharaj Raja Sivajee IV. is a Mahratta, 
twelve years of age, and belongs to the Bhonsla family. He 
was attired in purple velvet and white muslin, and was in«rusted 
with gems. His turban was a wealth of pearls and rubies ; 
his neck like an array of the show-cases of some great jeweller. 
The Raja is as yet a mere child, despite his years, and seems 
as if he would be the better for a little course of cricketing 
or of some other bodily exercise. The State, which is ruled 
in his name, contains upwards of 3000 square miles, and more 
than 800,000 people, and has a gross revenue of 3,047,243 ru- 
pees. 

It was interesting to watch the face of the Raja as he raised 
his eyes to meet those of the Prince. It wore an expression of 
pleased surprise as his Royal Highness, coming to the regulation 
spot on the edge of the carpet, with a pleasant smile took the hand 
of the little Chief and led him opposite the silver chair, where he 
left him with a bow, and sat down. The Political Agent then 
conducted the Chief to the chair on the right of the Prince, leav- 
ing another for the officer who acted as interpreter. The Raja's 
quick, soft -eye rolled down the line of the suite opposite, and 
then remained fixed on the" Prince ; and his Sirdars — who sat in 
a row, contrasting very much indeed, in their Oriental bravery of 
shawls, jewels and tissue of gold, with the plain uniforms of the 
Prince's suite opposite — watched every gesture of both. A few 
compliments were exchanged, but the remarks at such a recep- 
tion are of an official character. Then it came to the turn of the 
Sirdars. Each rose in turn and advanced to the foot of the 
Throne or chair of State, salaaming low, and presented to the 
Prince a kerchief containing gold mohurs. This the Prince 
touched with his right hand and remitted, and the Sirdar walked 
backwards as instructed, not always with ease, to his seat. When 
these presentations were ended, the Prince and all present rose, 



126 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

and his Royal Highness taking from those in attendance a gold 
and jewelled scent bottle, shook a few drops of perfume (uttur) 
on the Rajah's pocket-handkerchief, and then from another rich 
casket took the betel-nut (pan), wrapped in fresh green leaf cover- 
ed with gold foil, which he placed in the Raja's hand ; Major 
Henderson, as per programme, doing the same for the Sirdars. 
The interview was at an end, and the Prince led his Highness 
to the sacred verge, and thence he was conducted to the entrance, 
where he vanished with his face still turned to the Throne. The 
Maharaja went off as he came, in great state. 

Scarcely had the echo of the salute for him of Kolhapoor 
died away when the guns once more opened, this time firing 
twenty-one rounds, to announce the coming of the Maharaja of 
Mysore. He is the adopted son of the Maharaja who died in 
1867, and the restoration of his House is one of the most remark- 
able political acts of any recent Indian Government. His High 
ness, an intelligent-looking lad of thirteen years of age, is the 
subject of a great experiment, and represents the results of the 
subversion, by English hands, of the Mohammedan power founded 
by Hyder Ali, and the restitution of a Native State to the rule of 
a Hindoo House, which, strictly speaking, had no direct right in 
vh'tue of descent to enjoy it. It was for some time doubtful 
whether the adoption of Chamrajendra Wadia by the Maharaja 
in 1865 would be recognized ; but six months after his death, the 
lad, then not quite seven years old, was installed on the throne, 
and was placed m the charge of most careful and laborious offi- 
cers, whilst the affairs of the ill-governed State were retained in 
the hands of the British Government, but will be handed over to 
him when he is eighteen years old, if he " shall then be found 
qualified for the discharge of the duties of his exalted position, and 
subject to such conditions as may be determined at the time." 
The State contains 27,000 square miles, and a population of more 
than 5,000,000 souls. The revenue is put down at 10,820,000 
rupees, and it pays an annual subsidy to the British Government 
ot 2,450,000 rupees. The jewels which literally hung on him 
must De of enormous value. One stone of the many of his neck- 



MYSORE AND OODEYPOOR. 12/ 

lace is said to be worth nine lacs of rupees. Some of the suite 
smiled as the Band outside played the duet of the brave Gen- 
darmes, " We'll run him in," by way of prelude to his entrance to 
the audience chamber. He wore a coat of black velvet. His 
neck, wrists, arm; and ankles, were encircled with strings of 
pearls, diamonds, and rubies. His turban was graced with an 
aigrette of brilliants of large size, and a large tuft of strings of 
big pearls and emeralds hung down on his shoulder from the top. 
His Sirdars were equal in splendor to such a Chief. The same 
forms were observed as before, but the visit lasted a little longer. 
The Prince expressed his pleasure at hearing the little Maharaja 
speak fluent English, and on being informed that he loved the 
chase, was a good shot, and could play cricket, and sent him away 
in evident contentment. 

He who came after Mysore was regarded with some curiosity. 
Who could be indifferent to the presence of one who claims celes- 
tial descent, and has his claim allowed — whose blood is of such 
heavenly blue that marriage with a daughter of the house is only 
to be obtained at the cost of a province, and who is, according 
to Tod, the living representative of the only dynasty which, with 
the exception of Jaisalmir, " outlived eight centuries of foreign 
domination in the same land where conquest placed them, and 
who now holds the territory which his ancestors held when the 
Conqueror from Ghizneh first crossed the " blue waters " of the 
Indus to invade India } " Sir Thomas Roe, indeed, asserts that 
the House of Oodeypoor is descended from Porus ! The Maha- 
rana is a young man of the highest race in India, and if all tales 
be true, of considerable force of character. He boasts of the 
oldest pedigree in the world, and " looks a gentlemen all over." 
He speaks English, is tall, good-looking, and very fair^ — of a fair- 
er hue than the average Europeans of the South — and is of very 
dignified manners and carriage, with an air as if he were con- 
scious of his origin, and meant to keep up the traditions of the 
House. But what can he do at the best ? What career is open 
to him ? He rules, but does not govern ; and unless some change 
be introduced in the system, the instruction given to the Native 



128 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Princes in English and other learning, and the cultivation of their 
minds, with all the concomitant knowledge of history, and the 
birth of new ideas — patriotism, ambition, and the like — will prove 
not only mischievous but disastrous. He was dressed all in 
white — turban, robe, and pantaloons ; but on his head-dress there 
was an aigrette of magnificent diamonds, and he exhibited on his 
neck and on his arms some great pearls and rubies, and his gold 
sash was ornamented with a buckle set with the finest brilliants. 
His sword-hilt and sheath were richly studded with precious 
stones. The Sirdars in his train were attired in green satin and 
brocade, and white turbans, and were more resplendent than their 
Chief. 

The Maharana has but nineteen guns ; his State contains 
11,614 square miles, and a population of 1,168,000 people. The 
revenue is about 4,000,000 rupees, of which 20,000/, goes as trib- 
ute to the British Government. The Prince, who is not yet of 
age, was adopted by the late Maharana, and is the son of the 
elder of his two uncles, both of whom were excluded from the 
succession. The Prince and the Maharana seemed, to use a 
common phrase, to get on very well together, and there was 
evidently a good deal of sympathy in the interview. 

The Rao (Pragmul) of Cutch, who rose from his sick bed to 
pay homage to the Prince, came next — a tall, dignified, portly 
man, walking with great difficulty ; so ill, indeed, that he only 
returned to his State to die, to the great grief of his subjecl:s 
and of alt who knew him. There are only seventeen guns allot- 
ted to him. The Prince did not go further than the middle of 
the carpet to meet the Chief ; but the Rao and his Sirdars made 
a very impressive appearance for all that. Next to the Prince 
himself, the Rao seemed desirous of seeing Sir Bartle Frere, 
and the same remark applies to all the Bombay Chiefs, amongst 
whom the ex-Governor had left most pleasant memories. The 
" good " that men do oft lives with them. It was touching to 
think of the painful journey this infirm old man had made to 
pay homage to the Prince and see him for a few moments. He 
retired with evident satisfaction. The State is small — 6500 



MAHARAJA SYAJEE RAO. 1 29 

square miles, exclusive of the Ran, which contains 9000 square 
miles. The population is under half a million, and the revenue 
is but 1,500,000 rupees. It was harshly dealt with by our rulers 
in times past ; but they did some good too, and now they are 
doing justice. It was now ten minutes past eleven o'clock, and 
more than an hour had gone by in the performance of these 
ceremonies, when twenty-one guns announced that some one of 
Royal dignity was near at hand. 

All eyes were dazzled when Maharaja Syajee Rao, the little 
boy whom the Government of India installed as the Gaekwar of 
Baroda, stood at the threshold of the door — a crystallized rain- 
bow. He is a small, delicately-framed lad for his twelve years 
and more, with a bright pleasant face. He was weighted, head, 
neck, chest, arms, fingers, ankles, with such a sight and wonder 
of vast diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls, as would be 
worth the loot of many a rich town. It is useless to give the 
estimate I heard of their value, and the little gentleman has 
more at home. We all know his history, how he owes his posi- 
tion and his future inheritance, whatever it may be, to the at- 
tempt made to poison Colonel Phayre, and to the selection 
by Jumnabaae, widow of the predecessor of the ex-Gaekwar, 
now somewhere in custody, of a little scion of the House of Pil- 
ajee, who founded the family, and whose descendant (Pertab 
Rao) little dreamt of the revival of the branch in the person of 
his son. He was met at the edge of the carpet, and strode with 
much solemnity to his seat side by side with the Prince. Sir 
Madhava Rao, Sir R. Meade, and a noble train of Chiefs came 
with him. The first is one of the most noteworthy men in In- 
dia ; the second is distinguished as a soldier and as a diplom- 
atist, and is deemed by the Government worthy of the highest 
trust and of the most responsible posts. 

The State of Baroda contains 4399 square miles, and a pop- 
ulation of more than 2,000,000. The Gaekwar coins his own 
money; has an army of 5 batteries (20 guns and 400 gunners) 
and 3126 infantry, 2 squadrons of horse, and an irregular force 

kof 5000 cavalry and 7400 footmen, costing the State 40 lacs of 
6* 9 

; 



130 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

rupees, or 400,000/. annually — a quoi bon? But Baroda has 
treaties ; it is bound to have a " contingent," and we control the 
manufacture of salt, and the right of opening ports. What the 
revenues are seem rather indefinite, but every one believes Sir 
Madhava Rao will place them on a sound footing. Baroda is 
now the subject of an interesting experiment. The ability of a 
Native administrator to construct a fabric out of the ruins of 
systems which covered every kind of disorder and corruption 
will be fairly tested. Baroda rules itself. Only in certain mat- 
ters which do not interfere with the full development of its re- 
sources or with its good government does the Paramount Power 
pretend to exercise control, or does the Resident become justified 
in making representations to the Durbar. The term " Paramount 
Power " is objected to by certain Indian newspapers. It is, how- 
ever, perfectly applicable and absolutely correct. In no place 
has the term been more fully justified than in Baroda. The 
present Regent is one of the men who rise to the surface in Hin- 
dostan by sheer strength of talent, industry, and intelligence 
superior to all the forces arrayed against them. A Mahratta 
Brahmin, forty-seven years of age, he may be said to have been 
born in the purple of Premiership, for he is a son of one Prime 
Minister of Travancore and nephew of Vincat Rao, who filled 
a similar office. He was educated in the High School of the 
Madras University, where he was at one time Acting-Professor 
of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy ; he subsequently filled 
several posts in the Civil Service, and was then appointed tutor 
and companion to the Prince of Travancore. He finally was 
made Dewan or Prime Minister of that State in 1858, in which 
capacity he acted for fourteen years with such eminent ability, 
and with such benefit to the British Native rule, that he was 
made Knight of the Star of India, and was offered a seat in the 
Legislative Council, which he declined. In 1873 he was invited 
by Holkar to become his Dewan, and administered the affairs of 
Indore with success. When the Viceroy deposed Mulhar Rao, 
and it'became essential to place Baroda in the hands of a Native 
statesman, the British authorities applied to Sir Madhava Rao, 



SIR MADHAVA RAO. I3I 

who accepted the grave responsibility. What, with the advice 
and assistance of Sir R. Meade, he has done already promises 
well for the future. He has reconstructed the Revenue system, 
the Police, the Courts of Justice, and has reformed the whole 
administration of the State. He has acted on the principle of 
paying all Government officers very high salaries, so as to secure 
able men, and to diminish the temptations to speculation and 
corruption which operate so powerfully in countries beyond the 
bounds of Hindostan ; and it is stated, on very good authority, 
that justice is administered, and order and law established and 
maintained, with firmness and certainty. The village watchman 
still exercises his calling, but he is well paid and is made directly 
responsible for his village ; so, onwards and upwards, in all 
branches of the Administration, Sir Madhava Rao has so organ- 
ized the offices that there is no ground of complaint of inade- 
quate or irregular payment, while the Revenue shows a large and 
rapid increase. He has not begun by sweeping away all old in- 
stitutions and customs, tearing up tradition by the roots, and 
leaving a bleeding and irritating surface to receive the applica- 
tion of new ideas, but he has worked on the old basis and re- 
paired the ancient structure. Here we have a man of the intel- 
lectual type of that Purnia of Mysore described by an illustrious 
Englishman, who said, when speaking of Talleyrand, " He is 
like Purnia, only not so clever ; " but Sir Madhava Rao is, in 
in point of character and directness, greatly the superior of 
Wellesley's typical Brahmin Minister. The visit of the Gaekwar 
lasted a minute or two longer than usual, for the Prince asked 
several questions, and conversed with Sir Madhava Rao and Sir 
R. Meade. The forms prescribed in the programme were duly 
observed, and the Gaekwar, whose cortege and escort were very 
splendid, departed. 

Next we had one of the most interesting events of the day. 
It was the reception of his Excellency Sir Salar Jung, G.C.S.I., 
Vikar-ul-Umra, Nawab Khurshid J ah, Nawab Ikbal-ud-daula, and 
the other members of the deputation representing His Highness 
the Nizam of Hyderabad. The Nizam's Minister was dressed 



132 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

with studied simplicity in a long robe of dark green cloth, over 
which he wore the riband, G.C.S.I., a plain gold waist-belt, and 
a very small white turban, which set oif his well-developed brow 
and fine but melancholy face to great advantage. The Prince 
received Sir Salar Jung, who led the deputation, in the middle of 
the carpet. He shook hands with him, and the members of the 
deputation. Few words passed, but the Minister seemed difii- 
dent. His reserve may be accounted for by the apprehension that 
he would be regarded as a persona non grata on account of the 
inability of the young Nizam to appear, but there was nothing in 
his reception by the Prince after dinner last night, or in the man- 
ner of his Royal Highness to-day, which gave any outward sign of 
displeasure. Sir Salar Jung did not speak until he was spoken 
to. After a brief conversation, he presented on his own behalf 
a nuzzurof loi gold mohurs, which was touched and remitted. 
The eight Ameers who had been previously presented were intro- 
duced by Major Sartorius, and offered the usual nuzzurs, which 
were touched and remitted. A salute of twenty-one guns was 
given to the deputation as representative of the Nizam, who is 
entitled to that number, and not to Sir Salar Jung, who is per- 
sonally only an Excellency. The Minister retired with his 
Sirdars, who were much more splendid than their leader, and 
who did not wear a very contented aspect for reasons unknown 
to us. 

After him came Keshree Singjee, the Maharaja of Edur, a 
fifteen-gun Prince, a handsome, soft-faced, voluptuous looking 
youth, who was more at his ease than any of his fellows. His 
father was a K.C.S.I., and Member of the Legislative Council 
of Bombay, and the Prince is a minor, and is receiving his educa- 
tion from a tutor appointed by the Director of Public Instruction. 
His State, which has a population of only 220,000, is scarcely 
defined as to its boundaries, but is accurately measured as to rev- 
enues, of which the net amount is 25,000/. a year. The Prince 
advanced only three paces to meet him, and led him for so many 
when he was leaving, but the Chief went away in excellent humor 
and full of smiles, followed by his six chief Sirdars in very fine 



MEER ALI MORAD. 1 33 

dresses. He congratulated the Prince on his birthday, and 
hoped for the honor of a visit from him at Edur. 

Next came Sir Charles Napier's old friend, Meer Ali Morad, 
of Khyrpoor, in quaint Sindian head-dress, with a dyed beard, 
who talked to the Prince of his shooting days with the most per 
feet frankness, and expressed his regret that he could not show 
him some sport in the way aM.F.H. would lament a hard frost to 
a winter visitor ; but he was not entitled to even one step in 
advance, and was received by the Prince standmg fast before the 
throne. However, he received his uttur and pan from the Royal 
hands. Though he is only sixty-one, he seems very old, and he 
retains his cheerfulness under rather trying circumstances. It is 
of not much benefit to revert to the very doubtful circumstances 
under which he was made Rais after Sind was annexed, but for 
him it is enough that he was deprived of the title and of most of 
his land in 1850, because he claimed more than he was entitled 
to, and that he was left only what his father bequeathed him. He 
is very poor and very proud, and has very little power or influence, 
but he is considered by sporting men " not a bad sort of fellow," 
and he made a very favorable impression. His Beloochee Sir- 
dars were of the fiercest and finest-looking we have yet seen. 
When he left it was a little after noon, and if the Prince was not 
tired of the standing up and sitting down in that heated room, 
some of his suite certainly were. However, there was no respite 
save for a minute or two, when the Prince walked into the outer 
hall and looked out from the veranda on the Park outside, which 
was filled with the people in attendance on the visitors. There 
was still much to be done. 

After these great personages had been received and dismissed, 
their Highnesses, the Nawab of Joonagurh, the Jam of Nowa- 
nuggur, the Thakoor Sahib of Bhowniiggur, the Raj - Sahib of 
Dhrangdra, the Raja of Rajpeepla, the Dewan of Palanpoor, 
and the Nawab of Radhanpoor, were received in private audi- 
ence, a very interesting group of picturesque personages, mostly 
in bare feet and fine turbans — of whom there are probably few 
persons in or out of India who have heard anything, even the 



134 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

names, unless the officials immediately charged with the admin« 
istration of the India House and Foreign Office. 

The Nawab of Joonaguhr comes of a race of soldiers, the 
first of which known to Indian history seized on the district of 
Torith, from the capital of which the Chief takes his title seven 
generations back. He pays out of his revenue of 600,000 rupees 
a sum of 28,394 rupees to the British and a sum of 36,413 rupees 
to the Baroda government. The Jam of Nowanuggur enjoys 
revenues of 600,000 rupees, of which 50,312 rs. go to the British 
government, 64,183 rs. to the Baroda government, and 4893 rs. 
to the Nawab of Joonagurh. He is the head of the Jahrejah 
Rajpoots, and his ancestors, coming from Kutch, established 
their rule in 1542 by force of arms ; and one of them made an 
attempt to shake oif the authority of the British government in 
181 1, but was quite unsuccessful. The Thakoor Sahib boasts a 
pedigree of nearly nine centuries, and now rules a prosperous 
little State with a revenue of 800,000 rupees of which he pays, 
130,000 rupees annually as tribute to the British Government. 
Dhrangdra is a small State, but its Chief, a Raj Sahib, is head 
of the Jhulla Rajpoots. He has 160,000 rupees a year, of which 
he gives 40,000 rs. as tribute. The Rajpeepla Chief seemed to be 
under the influence of considerable excitement, as though he were 
angered by something, and exhibited some temper when one of 
the officials placed his hand on his shoulder to direct him to his 
place — a most vivacious, bright-eyed, sprightly man who was 
evidently anxious that his little son should be noticed, and was 
immensely pleased when Sir Bartle Frere spoke to him and said 
a few words to the boy on leaving. He comes of a Rajpoot race, 
which maintained its independence till the time of Akbar, and he 
still rules over an area of 4500 square miles, and enjoys a rev- 
enue of 375,000 rupees, of which he pays 20,000 rupees annually 
towards the maintenance of the Guzerat Bheel Corps. He pos- 
sesses the power of trying any but British subjects for criminal 
offences. The Dewan of Palanpoor belongs to an Afghan family, 
which came to Bahar in the time of Humayoon, and became mas- 
ters of large territory, but they were deprived of much of their 



REWAH KANTA CHIEFS. 135 

possessions, and all that remains for them now is an area of 
4384 square miles, peopled by 178,000 people, and a revenue of 
300,000 rupees, of which he pays 45,512 to the Gaekwar. Rad- 
hanpoor is a little district of 833 miles square, with a population 
of 46,000 souls, and a revenue of 250,000 rupees. It pays no 
tribute, but it has in lack of protection to submit to black-mail 
from its neighbors. The Chief is descended from a Persian ad- 
venturer of Ispahan, who carried his way with his sword, and left 
sons to develop his fortunes. One of these became possessor of 
a large part of Guzerat, but his descendants suffered the loss of 
much of it at the hands of the house of Baroda. He has power 
to try for criminal offences. 

At 12.50 P.M. their Highnesses the Raja of Baria, the Raja 
of Loonawara, the Nawab of Balasinore, the Raja of Chota 
Oodeypoor, the Raja of Soonth, the Sir Desai of Sawant-Wari, 
the Raja of Dharampoor, and the Nawab of Jinjera successively 
paid private visits to the Prince. The ceremonies were the 
same as at the preceding visits, except that on the arrival and 
the departure of the Raja of Baria and of the Raja of Dharam- 
poor a salute of nine guns was fired, whereas the others had 
eleven guns each. These Chiefs generally belonged to Rewa 
Kanta States. The first of them is a young man, who is owner 
rather than ruler of a small territory of 1600 square miles, with 
a revenue of 75,000 rupees, of which 12,000 rupees are paid to 
our Government. The second has a still smaller estate and rev- 
enue ; and he must be poor indeed, for out of less than 4200/. 
per annum he pays 1600/. to the British and 230/. to the Raja of 
Balasinore, who rules over 400 square miles, and enjoys its rev- 
enue of 40,000 rupees, from which 11,079 rupees go to the 
British Government. These small Chiefs and the Ruler of 
Chota Oodeypoor (who has an estate 3000 miles square, and a 
revenue of 100,000 rupees, of which 8770 rupees go to the 
Gaekwar) belong to races and families closely connected. But 
the Raja of Soonth, who has only a little estate of 900 square 
miles, and a revenue of 22,000 rupees, claims descent from the 
ancient Rajas of Malwa. He is reduced to an income of 2200/. 



136 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

a year, of which he pays 600/. to the British Government. The 
Sir Desai of Sawant-Wari is in a protected condition. In 1730 
his ancestor was an ally of the British, who were glad to make a 
treaty with him for the plunder of the famous Angria, and to give 
him all the conquered territory except Gheria and Kenneree. 
His successors were piratically inclined ; and our dealings with 
the race were not conducted with clean hands. The present 
man is an opium-eater, and his State (900 square miles and 
153,000 people, with a revenue of 200,000 rupees) is managed 
for him. Of the Dharampoor Raja little is known, even to Cap- 
tain Malleson, except that he administers the affairs of 15,000 
people, whom he can try for capital offences, and that he has a 
revenue of 90,000 rupees, of which 6500. are paid in tribute. The 
Hubshee Chief, Nawab of Junjeera, or Jinjeera, Ibrahim Moham- 
med Khan, did not attract as much attention as the singular history 
of the State he rules, the race he represents, and the character 
of the man merited. The Nawabship is of very curious origin. 
Nearly 400 years ago certain Abyssinians, who in those days had 
relations with the Indian States on the coast, obtained permis- 
sion to land 300 boxes (the number is suspicious) of reputed 
merchandise on the island. Each box contained a soldier, and 
the living imports seized on Rajpoori and Jinjeera. The Abys- 
sinian admirals, who administered the affairs of these parts sub- 
sequently, under the Ahmednuggur Kings, were elected, and were 
styled Wazeers, and an African Colony grew up and waxed so 
strong, that the Seedee Futteh Khan, their Chief, not only 
defeated the Peishwa's army, in 1659, with great slaughter, but 
maintained his independence. Sivajee in person took Rajpoori 
in 1661 ; but was effectively held in check by the Fort of Jinjeera. 
Though he conquered every other part of Konkan, Sivajee 
never could obtain possession of the island. Finally, the See- 
dee Chiefs acknowledge the sovereignty of the Peishwa ; but 
the extraordinary vitality of these Abyssinian admirals, and the 
loug-sustained independence of their State, are among the curi- 
osities of history. Jinjeera now contains only 324 square miles, 
83,000 people, and it yields a revenue of 330,000 rupees a year. 



THE " HUBSHEE." I37 

The first time he ever left his island was when ?ir Bartle Frere 
was Governor. He started with the intention of visiting Bombay ; 
but his heart failed him when he came in sight of the harbor, and 
saw the great mass of shipping. In fact, the Hubshee Nawab 
was profoundly suspicious of his neighbor, and obstinately — shall 
I say wisely? — refused to have anything to say to us. He would 
not make any treaty, enter into any arrangement, nor acknowl- 
edge any obligation ; he would pay no tribute, and permit no 
foreigner to live in his State. Naturally, therefore, when there 
was a leisure moment, the British Government interfered on the 
general ground of " misconduct and oppression ; '* and although 
they were indifferent to their existence for more than half a cen- 
tury, the Bombay authorities, in 1867, deprived the Nawab of his 
criminal jurisdiction. He came to Bombay to pay his respects 
of the Duke of Edinburgh in 1870, and sought the recovery of 
his powers, but in vain. He had, perforce, to agree to do as he 
was bid, and now all goes well. 

The first sensation experienced when the last of the dur- 
barees had departed was naturally enough one of thankfulness 
that the reception was over. Who does not feel a sense of 
relief when a levee is at an end } And this was a levee held 
under difficult circumstances. There was yet much for the 
Prince to do ere his birthday could become yesterday. The 
Chiefs could go back to their quarters and rest as long as they 
pleased, but there were several functions yet for his Royal 
Highness. The Viceroy was received, and had a long conversa- 
tion with the Prince before the latter left Parell House on a 
very interesting occasion. He went to pay a visit to the Serapis^ 
where the crew were enjoying a dinner provided by the Prince, 
the men of the Osborne^ I believe, being similarly treated. There 
was a fine work of the confectioners' art ready in the saloon, 
which the Prince cut, and his health was drunk with much feel- 
ing. Telegrams were exchanged between Sandringham and 
Bombay. The passage of the Prince between the shore and the 
ships was, of course, made with pomp, salutes, and yards manned, 
flags, music, cheering ; and when he landed, the city, which had 



138 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



been in great excitement since yesterday, was beginning to light 
up, for tliis was tlie happy occasion for which the native world 
had been longing — the general illumination of the fleet and of 
the town. 

The ships were so brightly illuminated that the great bay 




THE BUTTEE WALLAH. 



seemed as if it were filled with rows of fiery pyramids, — a spec- 
tacle that never can be forgotten. It was a surprise even to 
those who passed through the streets the night before. The 
Prince of Wales, attended by ths Victory, the Governor, the 



BIRTHDAY REJOICINGS. 1 39 

officers of State of the Army and Navy, and the Chiefs, ^rove 
through the principal streets from Mazagone to Parell, passing 
by every public building and object of interest on the way. The 
sea that lapped the sweep of the bay and all its curvings from 
Malabar Point to Elephanta was fringed with flame, and broke 
on shores of fire. It would be wearisome to repeat what met 
the eye during the progress of six or seven miles from the land- 
ing-place to Parell. Every building, every foot of roadway, 
literally, of the many miles between the harbor and Government 
House presented an aspect which none who have not seen an 
Indian illumination can imagine, so great is the beautiful effect 
of the soft light of the buttee, or the oil-lamp, a small saucer of 
baked clay, with a piece of cotton-wick. Not only were there 
millions of buttees, but colored glass was plentifully employed 
along the triumphal arches in front of the houses, and in many 
inscriptions. The lamps were fed incessantly by men and 
women laden with cans of oil. The wonder was that the whole 
town and its inhabitants were not in a. blaze. There was an 
inconvenience, notwithstanding the beautiful effect of the light, 
in that there arose a dense smoke, which was caught in the far 
vista, giving a faint ghostly outline to the figures in the perspec- 
tive. It would be quite impossible to enumerate the public 
buildings, or rather to select any for particular mention ; nor 
would it now be of interest to endeavor to revive this forgotten 
glory. The inscriptions were monotonous, and rarely deviated 
from the stereotyped " Welcomes ; " though now and then one 
came upon an exceptional expression, such as " Tell Mamma 
we're happy," — " Welcome thee, our future Emperor," — " Wel- 
come our future father and King," and the like. It was a very 
fine sight. A State banquet of a grander character even than 
that of yesterday was given by the Governor in honor of the 
Prince's birthday ; but that did not conclude the labors of the 
day, for a reception, attended by many of the Native Chiefs, in 
addition ]to the elite of the European community, followed, and 
the festivity was not brought to a close till late at night. 

" It has long been my earnest wish," the Prince of Wales 



140 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

saidj in returning thanks for his health, which was proposed by 
the Governor, "to visit India ; and, now that my desire has 
been gratified, I can only say. Sir Philip Wodehouse, how much 
pleased I am to have spent my thirty-fourth birthday under your 
roof in Bombay. I shall remember with satisfaction the hospit- 
able reception I have had from the Governor and all here as 
long as I live, and I believe that I may regard what I have ex- 
perienced in Bombay as a guarantee of the future of my pro- 
gress through this great Empire, which forms so important a 
part of the dominions of the Queen." These few words, de- 
livered with conviction and feeling, had a great effect, and they 
were prophetic and true to a degree which few could have 
guessed or dared to anticipate. 

It was indeed difficult to believe that any city could offer a 
more brilliant and enthusiastic welcome than Bombay, or display 
spectacles more curious and diversified than those which the 
Prince had witnessed here. Owing to its natural advantages, 
beautiful harbor and scenery, diversity of races, presence of 
important Chiefs and interesting personages, and to its being 
the means of giving the first impression of India, Bombay en- 
joyed the greatest opportunities, and made the most of 
them; but it was almost too much to expect that the whole of 
the Royal progress would have been attended with similar 
success. 

November lo. — The Governor-General sets out to-day on a 
tour, and when he takes leave of the Prince will see him no more 
till he receives his Royal Highness as his guest in Government 
House, Calcutta. The '* act of respect " has been performed, 
and having welcomed the Prince to India, Lord Northbrook de- 
parts with his Staff and his Body-Guard, and exhibits his state to 
the Chiefs of Rajpootana, and to places seldom if ever visited 
by his predecessors. Whilst the Prince is engaged in a sedulous 
execution of the programmes prepared for Bombay, the official 
intelligence of the spread of cholera near the Annamally Hills 
renders it very doubtful, however, if the shooting excursion in 
Southern India will be practicable ; and in that case the fes- 



THE " THAKOORS. I4I 

tivities at Ootacamund, Bangalore, &c., and interesting visits to 
Seringapatam and Mysore will take place. Colonel Michael, 
who was charged with the arrangements, and who is quartered 
in camp here, still hopes that the disease will die out, or that 
the reports will turn out to be exaggerated. The heat seems to 
increase instead of diminishing ; and there is a very long pro- 
gramme for to-day, beginning with a reception of what the 
Americans would call the "balance " of the Rajas and Nowabs, 
&c., that will endure for four hours — viz., from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m. 
It will have been seen that there is a good deal of monotony in 
these receptions, and the results can scarcely come up to the 
expectations of men who have been looking forward so anxiously 
to these few days as the event of their lives, and who find it is 
all but a few words uttur and pan, and good-by. The sums 
they pay for their houses, which have been hired for the occa- 
sions, are exorbitant. Many of them cannot recover the outlay 
for years to come, and the cost has been increased by the great 
bands of retainers and of the followers whom each Chief has 
brought with him to do honor to the Shahzadah. After break- 
fast the last series of visits began. 

When the Prince had taken his place before the Chair of State 
once more, and all things had been rightly ordered, the minor 
Chiefs, who had been fast assembling, were marshalled one by 
one in the outer rooms to be presented to his Royal Highness. 
First came seven Chiefs of Kattywar, of the second class, whose 
distinctive title is " Thakoor Sahib." There were a certain num- 
ber of retainers allowed to each, but these were not presented ; 
and although the Chiefs are allowed to visit the Viceroy, they are 
not entitled to return visits from him. Each Thakoor was led 
by one of the Staff to the threshold of the Audience Chamber, 
where he was received by Major Henderson or Major Sartorius, 
who, taking him by one hand, walked slowly up to the Prince 
and announced the Thakoor's name. The Thakoor made obei- 
sance, the Prince bowed, and then the Chief was pointed out 
his chair on the right of the Prince ; his followers took their 
seats in the chairs behind him, and then the Chiefs retired in 



142 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

due order, followed by their retainers and salaaming to the 
Prince. 

This formula was followed very closely, and it was repeated, 
mutatis mutandis^ in the case of the other Chiefs of equal rank. 
It will be seen that to the Rajas and Nawabs of lower degree 
there was not accorded the trying favor of a personal reception 
outside the Government House by a member of the Royal suite. 
The higher honor — which means that when one officer of the 
suite had had quite enough of trotting as hard as he could 500 
yards up and down in the sun, he was relieved by another, and 
that when one equerry or aide-de-camp had done his share of the 
receptions of Chiefs, another took his place — is greatly prized. 

The " conducting " of the Chiefs to the presence was a curious 
ceremony. The political Officer took the right or left hand of 
the conductee in his own left or right hand, and thus led him to the 
presence as if he were in some sort of custody ; and the appear- 
ance was at times intensified by the attitude of another officer on 
the other side of the honored person. 

The first who came, the Thakoor Sahib of Morvee, who is 
owner of 125 villages, with a population of 91,000 people, a reve- 
nue of 65,000/. a year, and pays a tribute of 4000/. Next, though 
his revenue is only 12,500/., out of which he pays 1200/ to 
Government, came the Thakoor Sahib of Wankaneer. The 
Thakoor of Palitana, a Rajpoot, aged thirty-one, whose State 
contains a population of 52,000, and whose city is in high repute 
among Rajpoot pilgrims, was next. Another Rajpoot — the 
Thakoor Sahib of Derole — followed : a' poor man, with State of 
sixty-one villages, a population of 18,500, and a gross revenue of 
15,000/. a year. After him came the Thakoor of Limree, a mi- 
nor, pupil at the Rajcoomar College, whose revenue is estimated 
at 21,000/. a year. Then came the Thakoor Sahib of Wadhwan, 
Rajah of Rajeer, also a minor, and pupil at the Rajcoomar Col- 
lege, who draws 35,000/. a year from his villages, pays 3250/. 
to the British Government, and 6230/. to the Nawab of Junagarh. 
These Chiefs exercise legal jurisdiction in the Kattywar Courts 
— the first five for capital offences, unless the accused are British 



THE LEVEE. 143 

subjects ; the latter having power over their own people only. 
Next, at 1 2. 20 P.M., six Sirdars of Sattara, the Deccan, and Kon- 
kan, who do not possess the power of life and death, but who 
belong to families of the most extraordinary antiquity, were re- 
ceived. The first was the Swamee of Chafool, but he was by no 
means the ^first in point of birth ; for the Punt Prithinidee of 
Aond, who was presented after him, boasts of title higher than 
the Peishwa's own, and still holds part of the lands his fathers 
held from Sivajee. Punt Sucheo of Bhore, who has a jagheer 
of 500 square miles, came next; then the Chief of Phultun (400 
square miles), the Chief of Vinchoor, C.S.T., and the Raja of 
Jowah. When these were dismissed, which was done in ten 
minutes, there was still a third body of Chiefs to be presented to 
the Princeo These were the Raja of Moodhole ; the Chiefs of 
Sanglee, of Meeruj, senior and junior ; the Chiefs of Koorund- 
war and of Ramdroog. The Raja of Jowah and the junior 
Chief of Sanglee would have made a sensation anywhere. 
These three gatherings of native gentlemen were all disposed of 
in half an hour or so, and they departed in a great crowd from 
Parell — somewhat dazed, perhaps, at the suddenness of their 
dismissal, which was, however, no doubt in accordance with the 
programme. In raiment and face and figure these men were vari- 
ous — some were laden with jewels, some were plainly clad, but 
as each sat sword in hand he looked a gentleman — better sitting, 
awkward as it is, than walking in the horrid restraint of patent 
leather shoes or bottines. Their behavior was admirable — no 
staring or pushing, no curious gestures or expressions of surprise, 
but perfect self-possession and repose. 

Hitherto the opportunities of appreciating the force of the 
Gun not in the shade have not been many, but the drive to Bom- 
bay Ais afternoon amply atoned for want of experience of that 
S( . The Prince, accompanied by Sir Philip Wodehouse, left 
I-;.. jiL with ail the usual honors of guard, band, colors, and salute, 
at a quarter pa::C 33 escorted by a body of the 3d Hussars. Al- 
though this is the cold season, the sun was intensely hot, and the 
smallest protection — such as a shady piece of road — was eagerly 



144 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

welcomed. There were many thousands of people along the 
route, but the myriads of thousands had disappeared. Some 
time after 4, the Prince alighted at the Secretariat, an enormous 
pile of buildings, not unsightly or incommodious, where the chief 
clerks of the Government, who rejoice in the title of under or 
assistant " Secretary," carry on their business. Here he was 
received by the Chief Justice and Commander-in-Chief, the 
Members of the Council, the Roman Catholic Bishop, the Com- 
mander-in-Chief of Her Majesty's naval forces in India (I take 
the order from the official programme), and was attended to the 
Presence Room. Having taken his place on an elevated dais in 
a large room, honored by that style and dignity, line was formed 
by the suite, the door was thrown open and the levee commenced. 
It may be an excellent institution in Europe, but in Bombay, in 
a temperature approaching that of the dog-days, it is certainly 
one of the least agreeable ceremonies that can be, whether for 
Europeans or natives^ To the ideas of the latter, I should think 
it utterly repugnant. The former were naturally desirous of paying 
their respects to the Prince, although the utmost notice he could 
bestow upon them was a bow as their names were announced, 
and they passed into the great crowd beyond as rapidly as 
circumstances would permit. As to the native gentlemen, some 
of them appeared so utterly astonished and unhinged by the pro- 
ceeding as to lose all power of locomotion ; so that it was neces- 
sary to seduce them gently away from the Royal presence, or oc- 
casionally, indeed, to direct their uncertain steps with more vigor 
than politeness. The naval officers and those of the army with 
whom the Prince was personally acquainted were honored by a 
shake of the hand ; but when it is considered that the persons 
who attended came in thousands, and that for each of them there 
was a bow, it may be imagined what the effort of standing in a 
smothering atmosphere for more than one mortal hour, and 
making at least two thousand bows in the time, must have been. 
The doors were peremptorily closed at 5 o'clock, and many were 
left outside, too late to have the pleasure for which they so much 
longed. However, at last, the levee was brought to an end. 



THE CHILDREN S FETE. I45 

A much more pleasing ceremonial followed, although it was not 
without its share of toil — the Children's Fete — which was held 
upon an open space near the harbor, and afforded a very pretty 
spectacle. Boys and girls of all castes, classes, and creeds, 
dressed in the most brilliant colors, were collected to the number 
of 7000 under their various teachers, with banners flying, arid in- 
signia denoting the schools to which they belonged, driving one 
again for comparison to the oft-used image of wide-spread banks 
of flowers in full bloom; and these were in full bloom, if not 
with ruddy cheeks, at least with that peculiar light and glow 
which indicate youth and health in this part of the world, and an 
intensity of black eye which, except in Spain and Italy, is not 
seen out of India. The Parsees were remarkable for the rich- 
ness of their dresses, and for the startling effects of color which 
they exhibited, and as the Prince, almost with difficulty, made 
his way up to the elevated stand where he was to hear the song 
in his honor, and to present himself to the little multitude, the 
cries, the cheers, and hurrahs, which arose indicated the posses- 
sion of excellent lungs. Finally, he was almost smothered in 
garlands and wreaths of flowers. The heat of the weather, al- 
though it is excused by the residents of Bombay on the ground 
that it is quite uncommon, is not the less unpleasant, and there 
are some people inclined to think that it is always at least as hot 
here as it is now. The excursion to Poonah, which is fixed for to- 
morrow, is regarded with pleasure, although it is said we must, 
not expect any diminution of the heat. 

The greatest honor which can be done to the Native Chiefs 
is to increase the number of guns to which they are entitled, and 
to place them high on the list of those entitled to visit and to 
receive visits from the Viceroy. The rules which applied in the 
case of the latter were held to regulate the interviews of the 
Prince and the Chiefs. This evening, therefore, was fixed for 
the return visits of his Royal Highness, which began after the 
"nspection of the children. It was not the less trying because 
it was necessary to defer the ceremony so late in the day. 

The first visit was made to the Maharaja of Kolhapoor, four 
7 10 



146 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

of whose principal officers escorted the Prince from the Esplan- 
ade, near the Secretariat, at 6 o'clock. The Chief's residence, 
hired for the occasion, was some distance from the fort. The 
crowds of natives in the streets, augmenting in density as the 
procession reached the place where guards of honor, artillery, 
triumphal arches, illuminated gardens, and a bungalow of great 
size, as light as day, indicated that the Prince might be expected, 
were interested to the utmost, especially the Hindoos, who took 
it as a compliment to themselves that the Shahzadah was about 
to honor one whose lineage they so much respect. The Sirdars 
of Kolhapoor, surrounding their Raja, were arranged outside 
the house. In the court before the door the Native forces of the 
State were represented by some very picturesque cavalry and 
footmen. The hall was full of retainers, and the staircases were 
lined by warriors and servitors armed to the teeth. As to the 
tumult of music and cannon, the drumming and flourishing of 
trumpets and instruments of vocal torture, which arose when 
the Prince, descending from his carriage, was received by the 
Raja and led up stairs to the Divan, it must have been heard to 
have been appreciated. I say not this exclusively of the Kolha- 
poor reception, but of all. It was a busy time for the officers 
and men, and for the bands of the regiments, and for the artil- 
lery, for it was necessary to have a guard of honor, " God save 
the Queen," and a Royal salute wherever the Prince was received. 
The State apartment was very richly decorated, and was not 
wanting in chandeliers, colored prints, and mirrors. The Prince 
and the Raja, hand in hand, advanced between the lines of seats 
arranged at each side of the room, and sat down in chairs at the 
end. The Sirdars sat on the left, the English on the right, and, 
after a pause, there was a conversation of which only a few words 
were audible. The Prince expressed the pleasure he had in 
meeting with a Chief with whom it was possible to converse. He 
was aware, he said, that the late Raja had died at Florence, 
on his way to England. He much regretted the occurrence ; 
but he trusted that it would not prevent the Raja from visiting 
him some day, and he would be always glad to hear of the pro- 



THE MAHARAJA OF OODEYPOOR. 14/ 

gress made in his education. When this interview was proceed- 
ing, the presents were being laid out in an adjoining room. 
Then came a presentation of all the Native officers to the Prince 
by the Political Officer on duty, each of whom presented his 
nuzzur, which was " touched and remitted." Then the Maharaja 
gave the Prince utter and pan, conducted him to his carriage, 
which was met outside by a deputation of the Sirdars of Oodey- 
poor. Then another drive through suburbs crowded and under 
illuminated arches to the residence of the young Chief, who had 
an enormous establishment of armed retainers and troops, horse 
and foot, drawn up in his court-yard, in addition to the British 
guard of honor, band, and colors, and to the artillery. " God 
save the Queen : " Royal salute ; the same ceremonial exchange 
of speeches and presents. The Prince pleased and flattered the 
Maharana greatly, it would seem, by the simple remark that he 
had heard of tlie great antiquity of his house, and had read in 
history of the gallant deeds of his ancestors. He regretted that 
his limited stay in India would prevent his visiting the capital of 
such a distinguished and ancient race, which he had heard was 
one of the most interesting and beautiful in India, As the 
Maharana was going back to his capital in order to meet the 
Viceroy, who was setting out on a tour to Rajpootana and the 
Central Provinces, the prince expressed a hope that he would 
not remain unnecessarily in Bombay on his account. The gar- 
land with which each visitor is wreathed differs in form and 
fashion at each Chief's, and the splendor of the appointments is 
not always equal. The rush to get out of and into the carriages 
so as to be in time, perhaps was the least dignified part of the 
proceedings, for Orientals consider running almost as discredit- 
able as dancing. The tumult on ^arrival and departure was 
deafening — cannon, music, words of command, horses neighing, 
steel clattering, Natives and Europeans cheering. The next 
visit was to the Gaekwar. It was past 7 o'clock before the 
Prince could get out to the residence which had been hired for 
his Highness near Malabar Hill. First and foremost four of the 
chief Sirdars of Baroda came to the gate of the residence of the 



148 

Maharana of Oodeypoor to escort the Prince to that of the 
Gaekwar. The latter met the Prince at the step, and conducted 
him up stairs to a seat in a long room lighted most brilliantly. 
Chairs were placed for the Sirdars on one side, and for the suite 
on the other, and when the Durbar was set, the sight was very 
fine, for the Court of Baroda is still magnificent. It is hard to 
find small-talk for a little boy like the Gaekwar, but the Prince 
charmed him by speaking of illuminations and horsemanship. 
The Prince is very fond of riding, and his Royal Highness en- 
couraged him to persist in it. As he was in the carriage which 
came immediately behind the Prince's, he could see the illumina- 
tions to perfection, and he expressed his pleasure with childish 
freedom ; but he did not seem quite so cheerful when the Prince 
alluded to his studies, and said he would watch over his career 
with interest, and hoped he would pay especial attention to 
English, which he would find so useful. He enjoined him not 
to neglect his writing. Time was pressing. The Prince before 
leaving, however, had an interview with Jumnabaae, who maybe 
called the " Queen-Mother," and then drove off, followed by the 
Baroda Sirdars, back to Parell. 

When the Prince of Wales returned the visits of the Chiefs 
at their own residences, all the restraint and silence, which hai 
been so remarkable elsewhere, vanished. There were, to be sure, - 
the same formalities all duly prescribed in printed circulars, but 
the Prince spoke unreservedly, and the effect was magical. 

And there it was just as much as one could do to get to the 
tent, and rub off the smut and black of illumination and flaring 
torches in a welcome bath, hand over garments covered with oil 
spots — once a shower of the unctuous rain was let fall from a- 
triumphal arch on the State carriage and its occupants, ov/ing 
to a jar given to the frail edifice by the wheel — appear in dinner- 
dress, and run up to the House in order to get to one's place 
before the Prince and the Governor led the way to the Banquet- 
ing I-Iall. When dinner was over, there was a movement to get 
ready for the Grand Ball given by the Byculla Club, of which all 
European Bombay, and many miles beyond, had been talking 



THE RETURN VISITS. 149 

thinking, and dreaming for many weeks ; but it was not until late 
when we arrived at the Club House, which we found gayly dec- 
orated, and the ballroom a scene of great brilliancy. An 
incident of our return to Parell, which I must not omit to record, 
was the accompaniment, as a guard of honor, of a native 
Highland regiment. The corps was the creation of a former 
Gaekwar, who succeeded in procuring all the materials for High- 
landers except the men. He could not help Indians having 
brown skins ; and no matter how a real Highlander's legs may 
be burnt by the sun, they cannot assume the Oriental bronze. 
The " Highlanders," about 300 strong, came marching up 
gayly to the strains of their own bagpipes, which were just 
as musical as though they were tuned by Alister MacAlister 
himself, and drew up in a line outside the entrance to Pa- 
rell. They wore what seemed to me the clothing of a High- 
land regiment. Probably their coats might have been new 
when purchased, but certainly they were not made for them. In 
coats, kilts, bonnets, and feathers, stockings and shoes, they were 
as like Highlanders as could be — quite as tall, or taller, if not 
so broad as the average of Scotch battalions ; but there was one 
startling innovation in tlie costume. Whether to imitate the 
color of Briton's flesh or from motives of decency I cannot say, 
but anyhow, the Baroda Highlanders wore pink calico breeches, 
wiiich came down below the knees, over which their stockings 
were drawn above the calf of the leg. 

The return visits of the Prince to the Maharaja of Edur, and 
to Chiefs of equal and minor degree whom he had received, but 
whom he could not see at their own residences, were made at 3 
p M. on the following day, at the Secretariat, in a room set apart 
for that purpose, each Chief being assigned an apartment which 
was provided with chairs of State and double rows of seats. On 
the Prince leaving the first Chief, he was met at the door of the 
reception-room by the next, to whom he then paid a short visit. 

It did not strike me that it was either a satisfactory or be- 
coming arrangement, and I was not surprised to hear that it had 
caused annoyance to the Chiefs when the Viceroy called on them 



150 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

in the same way, but the honor of receiving the Prince was 
some compensation. To the eye all went well, and there was a 
pleasant if " warm " interchange of civilities ; in fact, the heat 
in the rooms was just on the verge of being unbearable. The 
good people of Bombay had been for some time preparing a 
dinner in honor of the Prince's visit, to the sailors of the fleet, 
to which his Royal Highness proceeded when these return visits 
were over, and it was a good idea well carried out and thoroughly 
appreciated. And to hear these two thousand sailors cheer when 
they saw the Prince of Wales enter and advance to the centre of 
the canvas hall, all draped with flags, was great comfort in itself 
— a sort of marine assurance that there was, without Chauvinism, 
no want of the old stuff which some think thinned and worn-out 
by chafing innovation ! No wonder the Prince wanted to see 
them as they saw him, and so he called for a chair to stand upon, 
and mounting the plank with a glass in his hand exclaimed, 
" My lads ! " — such a combination of roar and laugh as broke 
out at this ! — " My lads ! I am glad to meet you all ! I drink 
your good health and a happy voyage home ! " Well, it would 
be very difficult to say what these two thousand men would not 
have tried to do at the Prince's bidding when he spoke these 
words. I am glad their only task was to keep quiet and get on 
board, and that they did in most orderly fashion — albeit they 
put the wreaths of flowers on their necks, and ornamented their 
caps with the little flags which graced the table. There never 
were better behaved fellows, not only at the vast feast spread in 
immense tents wherein tables had no time to groan under beef, 
pudding and beer, and had to bear a good deal of dancing all 
during the festivities, but in the streets. Moreover, on this day 
there was a fete of great grandeur, if of excessive ritual ; the 
Prince laid the foundation stone of Elphinstone Docks with Ma- 
sonic honors — not honors merely, but ceremonies of the most 
orthodox complication and elaborateness. The only mistake lay, 
perhaps, in inviting the Chiefs to come and see, and placing them 
where they could not see anything. It was a surprise to the 
ignorant to see Parsee, Mohammedan and Hindoo members of the 



UNPLEASANT NEWS. 15 I 

craft, but they were there in considerable numbers. There was 
an address and reply — there was a procession of Masons in all 
their glory, and then the stone was laid amid great rejoicing. 
When that was done, the Prince had to take off his Masonic 
robes and go through yet another duty ere dinner-time. I shall 
not attempt any description of what occurred on these occasions, 
although each had distinctive features — exchanges of courtesies, 
presentations, and presents, garlands and uttur and pan, pleasant 
speeches, magnificent dresses, and immense and costly prepara- 
tions. 

The return visit to the deputation under Sir Salar Jung and 
other high officers from the Nizam of Hyderabad was paid at 
(.'5 P.M. The Nizam's deputation attended the Prince to the 
entrance of the villa which had been engaged at large cost for 
the use of the representatives of the minor — at present almost 
an invalid under his mother's care. The reception was one of 
great state and formality ; but the conversation was of a friendlv 
and gracious character. The Prince's demeanor, under the 
circumstances, was a matter of great moment to these Sirdars ; 
but there was not the least appearance of reserve on his part. 
The Maharaja of Mysore was visited afterwards, and the pro- 
gramme fi„xed the Royal arrival at 6.30 p.m. The Sirdars of the 
Rao of Kutch awaited the Prince, who paid a visit to their Chief 
on leavmg the Maharaja. Another dinner and a reception at 
Parell brought the day to a close. 

November 12, — There is news of something more than the 
average sickness in the fleet, and the death of a boy on board 
the Serapis from cholera is reported. Before breakfast the box- 
wallahs came down in force upon the camp, generally selecting, 
by a sort of natural or trade intuition, tents the proprietors of 
which were likely to be good customers. Ganesh, Lord Charles 
Beresford's kitmagar and factotum, however, afforded him effi- 
cient protection, and gave some very useful information respecting 
the value of the articles for sale, which, without that assistance, 
if taken at anything like what they were offered for, would cer- 
tainly have been dear. Some of the customers entered into the 



152 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

traffic in a novel spirit, offering to toss " double or quits ; " and 
after a time the astute Bombay box-wallahs entered into the 
idea, and eagerly accepted it. Lord Carington, who had at first 
very fair success in tossing, " won " a ring. The man had asked 
fifty rupees for it ; Lord Carington offered to toss whether he 
would give twenty or forty, or something of the sort. He won, 
and was very much pleased, not so much at the value of the ring 
as at " doing the box-wallah ; " but, on inquiry, he ascertained 
that the ring mfght have been purchased, at the very outside, for 
two rupees in the bazaar. Presents offered by the Chiefs, and 
accepted by the Prince, are already pouring into Parell in great 
quantities. Groups of Native Police are constantly on duty, 
watching porters carrying cases and boxes, who are followed by 
the jealous officers of the Chiefs, into the rooms where they are 
consigned to Mr. Isaacson, of the India Office, who has charge 
of them. The Political Agents had informed the Government 
of Bombay what presents w^ould be made and what would be the 
value of them ; in some instances apparently directing, or at 
least advising, what the presents should be. Thus, one Political 
Agent writes that he will advise his Chiefs when they go to 
Bombay to buy 5000 rupees' worth of Surat manufactures. An- 
other Agent is told by the Government that his Chief is not ex- 
pected to make any present at all. In other instances the 
Agent states that the Chief does not intend to offer presents. 
In others, the Agent expresses " little doubt that the Chief 
would present a specimen of work costing" so much. The 
Duke of Sutherland went off at an early hour, to inspect the 
various institutions of Bombay, under the guidance of Surgeon- 
Major Hewlett, and no better could be. 

The Prince was entertained in the evening at a banquet in 
the caves of Elephanta, to which invitations were necessarily 
limited. This was not the first time that these caves, of which 
Heber, Dr. Wilson, Forbes, and many others of a lo.ng list of 
travellers, British and foreign, have given descriptions, have 
been made the scene of a Christian festivity ; but the natives, it 
is said, do not regard such apparent desecrations of their holy 



"the city of caves." 153 

places with anything like the feeling with which we should see a 
number of Brahmins indulging in the excesses of the Holee 
festival, or Mohammedans celebrating the Mohurrum inside West- 
minster Abbey. The Brahmins are, according to one local 
paper, men of resource, for they told the Hindoos in Bombay 
that the Prince of Wales and the Europeans went to Elephanta 
to worship the Deity there, and to do juttra to Shiva. Two 
steamers conv.eyed the Prince and the favored guests of the 
Governor from the Bay across to the island, where they were 
landed at the pier, not without difficulty, for the water is shallow. 
The sun had set, and the disembarkation was effected by torch- 
light carried by men wading up to their middle, sufficiently 
picturesque in themselves, and there were fires- on the beach, 
and an illumination — how often must that word be written ? — to 
guide the vessels. There is a steep winding ascent to Garipuri 
— " the City of Caves " — for three-quarters of a mile, which was 
lighted up by lamps suspended from a continuous framework of 
bamboos — one thousand and one steps, men said, to the top. 
It seemed more like ten thousand, and as we mounted " the 
boldest held his breath for a time," now and then, and the 
coolest was very hot, nor did any despise the halting-places on 
the way, or disdain to look out on the Bay where the men-of-war 
lay, tricked out with dotted lines of light like strings of stars, 
preiDaring for the great effect which was to glorify the return of 
the Prince. When the visitor enters the excavations, passing 
through the double row of pillars, which look as though they 
were supporting the mountain, or the squared mass of it, here 
chiselled into a grand portico, he sees the work of men who 
must have been, as Mr. Maclean remarks, imbued with a religion 
in which there was an element of sublime mystery and awful 
grandeur now completely lost in practices which are grotesque 
and contemptible. But these creations, solid as the rock, are 
perishing — these idols of stone are crumbling away, although 
they are not, it is believed, a thousand years old. Their stony 
eyes seemed to be glaring on the great array of tables covered 
with cloths and plates and dishes. The faces of extraordinary 



154 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

power and beauty, the gigantic forms cut with decision and bold- 
ness which challenge admiration and wonder, may seem to us to 
violate the rules of proportion and to indicate vicious taste, but 
it should be remembered that they are but the efforts of the 
sculptors to convey their impressions of beings of divine not of 
human type — Mahadeva, the three-faced god — the goddess with 
a single breast, Paravati, the wife of Shiva — the sculptures 
around the shrine of Linga — all indicate struggles to express in 
stone the attributes of extraordinary beauty, power, strength, 
fecundity. 

I confess that Elephanta did not appear to me a happy 
choice for a dining-place /^r j-<f, although sufficiently curious and 
novel. In broad daylight, when the view over the Bay could be 
enjoyed from the shelter of the cool caves, I can fancy that the 
island would not be a bad resort for a picnic party, provided 
always they cleared away the debris of their feast ; but when 
the excavations are lighted up and the feast spread, the glare 
and heat of torches and the smell of oil, combined with the 
close reeking air, produce an odorous temperature by no means 
enjoyable by any but an Eskimo, who would find the combina- 
tion very agreeable. The cooking or warming of the dishes 
must be effected inside, in chambers dedicated by the laborious 
contrivers to religious or superstitious use ; and the vast halls 
were filled with the inappropriate incense of chandeliers, lamps, 
and candles, suspended from the roof ranged round the pillars, 
and placed on pyramidal stands on the floor. The Prince and 
the Governor and the dii majores sat at an elevated table, at 
right angles to which were ranged the tables of the general com- 
pany, and when the feast was over, and the toasts of the Queen 
and of the Prince had been given by Sir P. Wodehouse and re- 
ceived with acclamation, the party made an inspection of the 
chambers of the Temple, admiring especially the massive col- 
umns with their beautiful carved capitals — works quite apart — and 
then escaped to the outer air, and descended the steps under the 
trellis archway of lamps, now hotter than ever, towards the pier. 
But before they reached the beach the island suddenly became 



THE PROCESSION. 1 55 

volcanic ; the double mountain begun to glow with fires ; on the 
summit above the caves spirted up tongues of colored flames, 
and then followed eruptions of rockets — we were in for more fire- 
works ! It was rather a saiive qui pent from the sticks in some 
places ; and when the Prince's launch pushed off from the shore 
it seemed as though Elephanta were resolving itself into red, 
blue, and green fires. And yet this was but a preparation — a 
kind of pyrotechnic prelude to what followed, when the proces- 
sion of boats, escorted by the steamers, approached the two 
squadrons of the fleet, and passed down an alley of ships dis- 
charging volleys, in which the Osborne and Serapis were con- 
spicuous as ever in their rivalry of fireworks. 

" Fire answers fire ! — and thro' their paly flames, 
Each battle sees the other's umbered face." 

I can say no more except that it was, all in all^ perhaps the 
most impressive of all the many displays of the kind made for 
the Prince's honor, and for the delectation of those who came to 
pay it to him. The moon, sailing in state in the bright starlight 
above, instead of diminishing the beauty and brightness of the 
scene, cast over the bay a scheen which increased greatly the 
pleasure which the eye conveyed to the beholder, the illuminated 
hulls and rigging of the ships, the colored fires, the rocket flights 
were reflected in the silver mirror, and it was difficult to say 
where the sky ended and the sea began — the boats seemed to 
float on some new innocuous Phlegethon, But all that's bright 
must fade, and people must sleep ! and so the Prince landed and 
drove off to Parell, and that day was ended. 




SWAMP SHOOTING. 



CHAPTER V. 



Visit to Baroda — Battle of Kirkee — Poonah Address — Gunnesh Khind — 
Rumors of War — Sivajee — The First Review — Going Somewhere — Ball 
at Parell — Departure for Baroda — The Reception — State Elephants — 
Residency at Baroda — Baroda Highlanders — The Gaekwar's Court-^ 
Scenes in the Arena — Sensible Rhinoceros — Zoological Collection- 
Shikar Party — Cheetahs — Deer-Stalking — Native Ofricers — Palace of the 
Gaekwar — The Queen and the Gaekwar — Quail Shooting — Visit to the 
City — Return to Bombay — Uncertain where to go — Visitors to Hyderabad 
- A Hindoo Wedding — Departure from Bombay. 

November 13. — At 5.30 a. m. all the servants in camp were 
turned out to send off luggage to the train, which started for 
Kirkee at 7 a. m. — that is, it was to have started, but it really did 
not go off for an hour and a half later. The news from the hunt- 
ing-grounds in the south is still worse ; Colonel Michael is in 
despair. He says that cholera is always to be found in India ; 
that if its presence is to deter the Prince from going to his 
Valley it ought to prevent his going anywhere. But anyhow, the 
roads which had been made up the hill-sides for the Prince's 
156 



JOURNEY TO POONAH. I57 

accommodation to that happy Valley have been destroyed in a 
tremendous rain-storm. There has been no rain here, so every- 
thing seems to be against the expedition. 

A special train to convey the Prince and suite to Poonah, 
119 miles, was at the station close to Parell at 11 a. m. There 
was a guard of honor of Volunteers — Europeans, of course — 
whom the Prince inspected, and to whom he expressed his satis- 
faction at their appearance, and his approbation of the move- 
ment which has now extended over India ; every Station of con- 
siderable size has its own corps. This was the first occasion on 
which the Prince travelled by rail in India, and he had now the 
first opportunity of becoming acquainted with the wonders of 
'■^btmdahust^'' which are supposed to be so remarkable there in 
all Government departments. To each carriage was affixed a 
label with the names of those of the suite who were to occupy 
it ; and in the same way the vehicles in which they were to be 
seated on their arrival were told off, generally with great exact- 
ness, all through the tour. 

Sir Bartle Frere has recorded that an officer, who was quar- 
tered at one of the first stations we stopped at outside Bombay, 
Tannah, when it was an outpost, in 1808, was Brigadier in 
command of Peshawur, more than 1000 miles north of it, in 
1858 ; but it may be doubted whether that vast stride was made 
quite over terra firma. There are some who think it would have 
been better to have dug down in what we had, for solid founda- 
tions for our power, than to have been so eager for new territory. 
But anyway, the Russian can point to no longer leap in the last 
fifty years than that wonderful skip from Tannah to Peshawur. 

The ascent of the Bhore Ghaut and the scenery of the line 
have been so oftfen described, that it would be as superfluous to 
s-ay a word about it, as it would be to give an account of the 
road from Aberdeen to Ballater ; but at all events, it may be 
said that it was a very interesting journey, and the Prince and 
his followers enjoyed it all the more because, as the train 
mounted the gradients to the summit level, the heat sensibly 
diminished. 



158 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Kirkee, the scene of the battle which determined the fate of 
the Mahratta Empire, was reached in due time. It is just fifty- 
eight years and one week ago since by this roadside there was 
fought that action of momentous consequences to British rule ; 
for the results were the fall of the power of the Peishwa and the 
establishment of that of the Company in the Deccan. But very 
few cared now to know about Bajee Rao, the last of the Peishwas, 
for we were all eager to get to Poonah and to rest. It is, how- 
ever, not to be left unnoted that the success of the British in that 
battle, which was a crowning victory, was due, in great part, to 
the extraordinary attachment of a native regiment — not to the 
ruler of their own country — but to Ford, their European leader. 
The regiment belonged to the Peishwa's infantry, but fought 
against him at the command of a European Commandant. 
There is a good deal to be thought of in that fact, and it would 
be well if our Government could always get men of the same 
stamp as Major Ford to lead native regiments. There was not 
much to be seen from the train at Kirkee — a plain sufficiently 
dry-looking ; rows of bungalows, and lines of trees by the road- 
side ; a British battery firing a salute ; a crowd of soldiers' wives 
and children, European and Eurasian, outside the railings, and 
officials and the guard on the platform, which was decorated with 
flowers and flags. In a few minutes more the thud of another 
salute was heard ahead, and the train stopped. Many officers, 
civil and military, and a great gathering of the " Station," greeted 
the Prince as he stepped out on the platform, with much enthusi- 
asm. Sir Charles Stavely and his staff, and Lord Mark Kerr 
and his staff, and every one who could get there, were waiting to 
receive the Royal visitor, who drove in State through the Can- 
tonments and the outlying suburbs, which are so creditable to the 
powers that be. 

The procession suddenly pulled up in the sun, between the 
lines of soldiers, which formed a bright border to the variegated 
flower-bed-looking crowd of natives behind. It is always difficult 
for those who are in some sort engaged in the smaller business 
of ceremonials to become cognizant of more than their own part 



ARRIVAL AT POONAH. 1 59 

in it. They are like the actors behind the scenes, waiting till 
their turns come, save and except that they take more interest 
in that which is going on in front. " An address, of course ! " 
And so it was, for the elders of Poonah, headed by a venerable- 
looking man with a noble beard, were on a platform, beyond 
which was a fair arch of triumph ; by the roadside, and behind 
and on each side of them, were many European ladies and na- 
tives, who gave the Prince a most loyal welcome. These we saw 
when our turn came to pass the stand. It was the Honorable 
Khan Bahadoor Poodumjee Pestonjee who read the address, 
which was enshrined in a fine casket of silver, whereupon was an 
image of Gunputty, God of Wisdom, with a lotus in one of his 
four hands, and his faithful mouse in attendance. The Prince 
made a gracious reply, and was much cheered. And then on 
and on through miles of road and street lined with soldiers, 
British and Native, and crowded with people, mostly Mahrattas. 
It was 5 o'clock p. m. ere the Prince reached Poonah, and 
then there was a long drive to the Government House of Ganesh 
(or Gunnesh) Khind, of which we had heard before — the bite noire 
which Mr. Fawcett turned out occasionally in the House as " a 
typical instance of the extravagance and insubordination of the 
Governors of Bombay." Sir Bartle Frere, who was with the 
Prince, underwent a little raillery on the subject, but, standing 
in the magnificent marbled halls of the Palace, he might say 
"Circumspice !" He had, however, a good deal more to say, 
and more germane to the matter, which is somewhat complicated. 
In an able minute. Sir Bartle Frere seems to candid minds to 
have established the points, that he built a very fine dwelling for 
future Governors, that he acted within his legal powers, that he 
was not insubordinate, and that he had not, when he retired from 
the Government of Bombay, expended all the money at his dis- 
posal. The Palace and buildings cost 175,000/. But India is a 
very dear place for some sorts of work — papering a small room 
here cost 30/. ; making a door, 38/. ; the marble cement for the 
State r nving-Room, 360/. ; and so on. Anyway, there is the 
Palace — if not quite a thing of beauty and a joy for ever, at least 



l6o THE PRINCE OF V^Al^ES' TOUR. 

a very imposing structure, with noble tower and fair frontage — 
state apartments of the grandest — conservatories, gardens fresh 
and blooming — placed on a commanding site, with a view over 
the undulating plains and strange tumulous scenery of the Deccan. 
The Prince was received here in state worthy of him, and his 
standard flew out from the tower as he' set foot within the thresh- 
old of the Palace. The generals and officers, military and civil, 
attended, and were duly presented. 

After a stroll through the charming grounds of Gunnesh 
Khind, the party in waiting on the Prince broke up, and sought 
out their lodgings. Some were quartered in the Palace, others 
were provided with accommodation in houses in adjacent com- 
pounds. The dispersion at Gunnesh Khind was inevitable, be- 
cause that stately residence, with all its grandeur, does not 
possess the merits of extensive accommodation ; but there were 
carriages provided to take the guests to and fro. The Duke of 
Sutherland and Lord Alfred Paget were told oif to Bungalow 
No. I. The Rev. Canon Duckworth, Mr. Hall, and myself were 
informed that we were to lodge at Bungalow No. 2. " Where 
are they ? " " Oh ! any one would tell us." The Duke, Lord 
Alfred, and myself were put in one carriage, which was driven 
by a coachman in the Governor's livery, aided by another do- 
mestic in fine garments, and we set off full of confidence. At 
first there was the Park, then there was a pretty guard-house 
and a fine Clock-Tower, and a noble porter's lodge and gate to 
admire ; after which came a nice drive in the country. On we 
went. Poonah was in sight. Still the coachman drove on. But 
where was Bungalow No. i or Bungalow No. 2 ? Suspicion be- 
gan to cloud our thoughts and interrupt our speech. " Ask him 
where he is going ? " But alas ! the coachman and his fellow 
were Mahrattas, and understood only their own tongue, so that 
indifferent Ordoo was quite thrown away on them. There were 
a few Europeans loitering on the road to take chance of seeing 
the Prince ; but not one of them had ever heard of Bungalow 
No. I or of Bungalow No. 2. An artillery non-commissioned 
officer, who had been quartered for months close at hand, could 



RUMORS OF WAR. l6l 

not even direct us to the Clock-Tower, to which we desired to 
return. He had never seen it. By ingenious pantomime, not 
unaccompanied by vigorous demonstration, the coachman was 
at last induced to abandon his apparent object of taking us to 
Central India, and to turn back towards Gunnesh Khind. This 
time Sir. P. Wodehouse moved his staff to explicit ordering, and 
eventually the party were installed in their bungalows. 

There was a State dinner, and a dance, which was, I think, 
suggested by the Prince as an enlivening process. Among the 
guests was Count Seckendorff — a clever linguist, and a man of 
observation and resource, with a fine taste in art, and of merit 
as an artist — who is visiting Lord Napier of Magdala, whose 
acquaintance he made when he was attached by his Government 
to the Head-quarters of the Abyssinian Expedition. His father 
was well known in the diplomatic service in London, where he 
represented Prussian interests for some years. He has a good 
deal of the hard-headedness of his race ; but he is kind-hearted, 
and willing to serve a friend, as I had occasion to know when 
he was on the Crown Prince's Staff at the time we were to- 
gether in France and at Versailles. 

November 14. — Mr. Kanne, who superintends the arrange- 
ments for the Royal travels, having accompanied the Prince so 
far, starts early to-morrow morning with letters to deliver to the 
Princess of Wales and the Queen. Alarming telegrams that 
Russia had set three army corps on a war-footing, ready to move 
at a moment's notice, came later. It appeared quite possible 
that the expedition would be abandoned, for in case of war it 
would not be expedient for the Prince of Wales to be away from 
Great Britain. Canon Duckworth preached at the Station 
Church, which was very much crowded, as it was expected that 
the Prince would have attended. However, having been at 
Divine service in Government House in the forenoon, he only 
visited General Staveley's quarters, where he had tea. 

November 15. — Early in the morning Mr. Kanne came 
knocking at the door of the bungalow wherein Canon Duck- 
worth, Mr, Hall, and myself were lodged, to get the letters 

II 



1 62 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

which were lying on the table ; but so sound asleep were we, 
that he had to leave without obtaining admission. It was not 
comfortable to find that the servants showed so little vigilance. 
I Vv'oke up later, found the letters, and despatched one of the 
many natives — who were lying outside in the veranda, rolled 
up in their calico garments like lumps of dough — to the Railway 
Station, which was some miles, and the man made such good 
use of his slender legs that he caught Mr. Kanne just in time. 

At 6 A. M. the Prince started to visit the famous Temple of 
Parbuttee, rather to the discomfiture of some of the suite, who 
scarcely believed that so early a start, designed overnight, would 
be carried out in the morning. One of them even ventured on 
what is called " backing his opinion," that the chief of the expe- 
dition would not be punctual, for a small amount, which was 
lost, an I duly paid to the winner. Two of the suite who were 
late, found that the old saying of " the more haste the less 
speed," was true in India as well as at home, and came down 
with or parted from, their horses as they rode, ventre a terre^ to 
overtake the party. The ascent to the Temple, which is effected 
by a long flight of stone steps, exceeding steep, and in some 
places rugged, was made upon elephants, and the Prince now 
had his first experience of a mode of carriage with which he be- 
came familiar enough ere he left the country. Chota-hazree 
(small breakfast) was served at the base of the ascent to the 
lofty hills on wMch towers the fortress-like Temple. There was 
a gathering of devotees, fakirs, beggars, to welcome the visitors ; 
but here, as elsewhere, due precautions were taken to prevent 
intrusiveness or mobbing. The Prince inspected the interior of 
the great pile, was shown the shrine of Shiva, looked at the idols, 
and had a conversation with one of the .priests, a very astute 
Brahmin, who, having learned all that he could of English dia- 
lectics, and possibly the rudiments of Christianity, had reverted 
with increase of subtlety — but not with much credence, it would 
seem, for what he said respecting the details of his religious 
exercises — to the practices of his faith. He was an exceedingly 
good, if not an interesting, specimen of the cultivated Brahmin 



SIVAJEE. 163 

a r Anglais, a master of logic, of a philosophical humor, coupled 
with a mocking spirit, which perhaps would have developed 
into an exhibition of some stronger feeling had he dared to 
indulge in it. He was made happy in the way he most valued, 
by a gift to the Temple from the Royal hand. From a window- 
like slit in the wall of the Temple, the last of the Peishwas 
beheld the rout of his forces on the plains of Kirkee below, and 
could possibly perceive that the deadliest blow was struck by the 
troops on whom he most trusted for the success of his treacher- 
ous attack. It was more than a defeat — it was the overthrow 
of an Empire and the destruction of a dominant race. Recent 
visitors have attempted to gather a moral from the history of that 
defeat, and have inferred that our Power is perfectly secure, 
because 2800 well-drilled men, of whom 800 were Europeans, 
once routed 18,000 scratch cavalry and 8000 infantry, provided 
with fourteen pieces cf Native artillery. Such hasty assumptions 
form a very unsound basis for the convictions of men who may 
influence State policy. Whilst the Prince was at Parbuttee, the 
Duke of Sutherland and Lord A. Paget, under the guidance 
of Colonel Fife, visited the great artificial lake which serves as 
the head-water of a vast scheme of irrigation connected with the 
Moota, and the renowned stronghold called Singguhr, i. e., the 
Lion Fortress, eleven miles from Poonah, which was captured so 
wonderfully by Sivajee. It was built on the summit of a block 
of basalt so steep and high that the only means of reaching the 
fortress is by a laborious climb on one's legs, or by using the 
legs of the porters who carry you up in a palanquin in about an 
hour. Sivajee, the Mahratta hero, was not gifted with very heroic 
attributes, according to our conception — " Bloody, resolute, and 
cruel," — he was, however, full of energy, resource, and subtlety, 
undaunted and indefatigable. From the Temple you can see 
the ruins of Torna, the first fort he captured, as well as Raj-guhr, 
the first which he founded, in the Deccan, and a vast extent of 
rolling country scarred with watercourses, and streaked by 
mountain ridges, which are broken here and there into detached 
truncated blocks, frequently crowned by ruined fortaHces. 



1 64 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

On the Prince's return from the Temple to Gunnesh Khmd, 
there was a discussion respecting future plans and programmes. 
Opinions differed every hour as accounts came in, each with a 
new version of the state of the South ; at 7 a. m. it was reported 
that the hills were free from disease ; all were happy at the pros- 
pect of a visit to the shooting camp, and remained so till 8 a. m., 
when a telegram reported "cholera still rife." This was follow- 
ed by one at 8.30 A. M., that there was sickness at Coimbatore ; 
which was succeeded by another at 9 a. m. to announce that chol- 
era was spreading generally over Madras and Southern India. 
This last despatch, being official and positive, seemed final. 
Alteratives and plans to consume the time between the Prince's 
departure and the date fixed for his arrival in Ceylon were sug- 
gested, for the Bombay programme promised to be speedily 
exhausted. Besides, it could not but be felt that whilst the 
Governor and his officers were engaged in the agreeable task of 
entertaining the Prince, the work of Government was almost at 
a standstill. Many places, such as Ahmedabad and Baroda, 
were named ; and finally it was resolved to ask Ceylon when she 
would be ready, and meantime to visit if possible the city of the 
Gaekwar. 

A review of the Poonah Division was ordered at 6 p. m., but 
it was rather later when the Prince came on the ground, a flat 
plain, which is used as a course for the races so dear to the 
hearts of civilians and soldiers, not to speak of the mem-Sahibs 
of the Presidency. There was a very considerable concourse of 
Natives among whom the Mahratta turban largely predominated, 
and all the Europeans who could manage to be there congrega- 
ted near the flag-staff, where they seemed but a little dark patch 
on the broad white selvage of the indigenous multitude. 

There was not a very large force to show, nor were the Native 
regiments good specimens.^ As the eye gets accustomed to the 
local color, the faces of Europeans strike one as being almost 
unwholesomely pale, and the helmet projecting over the brow, 

* See Field State. — Appendix. 



THE FIRST REVIEW. 1 65 

and casting a shadow on the upper part, gives an appearance of 
attenuation, and causes the features to look shrunk and small. 
Lord Mark Ker, although he admitted that recruits were too 
numerous, and explained that the Native battalions were not at 
their full strength, did his best with the materials that he had. 
The Prince and some of his suite mounted ; others were on foot 
or in carriages. Riding strange horses, mostly " Walers," given 
to the high spirits and capers of their tribe, and going at a great 
pace, several of the horsemen were unfortunate. One was 
thrown heavily ; another, not attached to the Royal party, was 
carried by his steed among the spectators ; so that, on the whole, 
there was some little excitement apart from the military specta- 
cle. Before the march past was over it became too dark to make 
out much more than the fact that there were troops moving in 
quarter-distance column in front of the Grand Stand. It was 
" black as pitch " when Captain Hogg, of the Poonah Horse, 
exhibited his plan of dismounting cavalry, which has been thought 
highly of by some authorities, but of which there was no oppor- 
tunity of forming an opinion under the circumstances. The 
merit claimed for it consists principally in the way in which, as it 
was explained, the horses of the dismounted troopers are held, 
so as to enable a larger proportion of the troopers than is possi- 
ble under the ordinary system, to act as infantry, and to resume 
the functions of cavalry very quickly. 

The Prince returned to Gunnesh Khind by the city and Can- 
tonments, which were illuminated with great brilliancy. Need I 
add that there were fire-works, triumphal arches, inscriptions — 
that the streets were thronged— that buttees and fires, blue, red 
and green, revelled aloft and alow — that there was abundance of 
music of the native kind — and that every one was glad to get to 
Gunnesh Khind, and to pack up his recollections of Poonah — 
very pleasant on the whole — with his portmanteau, which was to 
be packed off to the Kirkee Station before dinner ? There was 
a farewell dinner at Gunnesh Khind, and at midnight the Prince 
and his company drove to the special train at Kirkee, where the 
servants had arranged luxurious beds in the carriages, and in 



1 66 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

half an hour more they were rattling away from the former capi- 
tal of the Peishwas on their return to Bombay, sleeping as secure- 
ly as if they were at home. 

November i6. — There were few who were awake at sunrise 
and saw the wild scenery of the Ghauts gradually developed in 
the early morning, but those who were by chance so fortunate 
had reason to be grateful. The train arrived at the station out- 
side Parell at 7.30 a. m., and the Prince at once drove to Govern- 
ment House. Here the situation was reviewed once more. 
When the necessity of " going somewhere " was forced on the 
consideration of the Prince's counsellors at Poonah, and earlier 
in the day, many places were mentioned and discussed before 
Baroda became the favorite. There were several reasons for 
caution and investigation before the Prince could be advised to 
go to the capital of a State which had lately been the scene of 
the remarkable and exceptional political trial which had agitated 
not merely India, but had extended its influence to public opin- 
ion in Great Britain. The deposed Ruler was known to have 
many adherents, despite his crimes and misgovernment. Sirdars 
who declared the tyrant's rule intolerable, have since been heard 
to express sorrow for his fate and for his misfortunes. The old 
Court followers of Mulhar Rao have been disarmed and scattered 
abroad, but who could guard against the presence of one or of 
twenty desperate men in a city of 90,000 or 100,000 people? 
The Baroda Government, however, was confident. The former 
Resident, Sir R. Meade, whose knowledge of the present condi- 
tion of the place carried immense weight with it, was in favor of 
the visit, and was satisfied that there would be no risk in going 
there, and the Governor of Bombay was relieved of a responsi- 
bility which he might have been unwilling to incur had the excur- 
sion of his Royal Highness been dependent on him alone. In 
all matters of the kind the Prince of Wales submitted with the 
utmost readiness to the advice and opinions of the Indian author- 
ities. Finally the Governor-General, when it was suggested 
that the Prince of Wales should honor the young Gaekwar by 
going to see him in his capital, gave his concurrence and ap- 



PRESENTATION OF COLORS. \6j 

proval. So, after many pros and cons, it was settled that the 
Prince might safely visit Baroda. There were promises of ex- 
cellent sport, and there was also the opportunity of seeing a 
Native Court still flourishing close to one of the capitals of 
British India. The result was that the Prince of Wales saw a 
place rarely touched by the foot of the stranger, and had a recep- 
tion which, if it were wanting in the glare, enthusiasm, cheers, 
and infinite variety of forms, ceremonies, and entertainments 
which welcomed him at Bombay, was entirely Oriental — the 
source of much enjoyment to himself, and of great service, it is 
believed, to the State. 

New colors were presented by the Prince to the Marine 
Battalion, as the 21st B. N. I. are called, at 4 p. m., on the open 
space near the Secretariat, and the ceremony attracted an enor- 
mous mass of people, among whom, conspicuous for their car- 
riages and costumes, were the Chiefs still lingering in Bombay, 
and the ever-present and picturesque Parsee ladies and children. 
The prayer which, according to " Regulations," the Chaplain is 
wont to deliver on the presentation of colors to a Christian 
regiment, was necessarily omitted, but every other portion of 
the detailed and elaborate, if not imposing, formality, was duly 
observed. The old colors, inscribed with many names, mostly 
unknown to Europeans, and not so ancient as the corps, which 
was raised nearly a century ago, were accepted by the Prince, 
and carried home to England to grace the walls of Sandring- 
ham.*" 

After another burra khana at Parell, there was a grand ball, 
the last for the good people of Bombay, and the Nawabs and 
Rajas who came had an 'opportunity of seeing how European 
ladies and gentlemen dance to amuse themselves instead of 
looking at others do it for them. However, there are some 
Europeans who prefer seeing a ballet to engaging in the pleas- 
ures of square or round. The Chiefs scarcely rallied round the 
supper tables, although some of them are known as " quiet drink- 

* See Field State. — Appendix. 



1 68 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

ers," chez eux. When we see dancing Rajas and waltzing Nawabs 
in India, we may be sure our work is almost accomplished ; but 
to judge from the modest way they avoided beautifully dressed 
ladies to-night, it would seem as if the day were yet far to 
seek. 

November i^j. — "Farewell the tented field ! " Farewell the 
crows and minars, which seemed to think it their bounden duty 
to insist on early hours being observed by those under their pro- 
tection, and who cawed and chattered ere the sun rose, regard- 
less of the fact that they went to bed when he set the night 
before, whereas their victim had not long lain down ! To-day we 
pack up and clear out from under canvas. Those who are going 
to Baroda to-morrow are only to take what is necessary — some 
are to shoot — others are to look on. The heavy baggage is to 
go on board ship. In the afternoon the Prince left Parell, which 
had been in such constant fete since his arrival, and which was 
now fast emptying out the offerings from the Chiefs, and send- 
ing them to the boats. 

The presents, upwards of 400 in number, from the Bombay 
Rajas and Chiefs, included specimens of every variety of Indian 
workmanship — tissues, brocade, cloths, arms of all kinds, jew- 
elry, gold, silver, and metal. On the whole the offerings were 
good without being too fine. The Raja of Kolhapoor, in addition 
to an ancient jewelled sword and dagger, estimated to be worth 
6000 rupees, has assigned a sum of no less that 20,000/. for the 
admirable purpose of founding a hospital, to be called after the 
Prince of Wales. The presents of the Nizam, rich in swords, 
fire-arms, carpets, gold cloth, and the like, were especially inter- 
esting. The Gaekwar of Baroda offered a tea-service of silver, 
of native workmanship and design, made at Madras under 
European superintendence ; shields of layers of silk, closely 
pressed together, which resist a sword-cut or the thrust of a lance 
from the strongest arm ; a pearl necklace from the Mahranee, a 
very beautiful ornament which had graced the necks of ladies of 
the Gaekwar's family, the pearls of excellent color and size, with 
an emerald and diamond pendant, for the acceptance of the 



BOMBAY PRESENTS. 1 69 

Princess of Wales. A diamond brooch with pearl pendants was 
also presented to her Royal Highness by the Maharanee. The 
Rao of Cutch sent an exquisite collection of the famous work of 
his State, which has a deserved reputation in India. Upwards 
of thirty pieces of silver and gold, flower-vases, tea-services, 
varieties of articles for the table, formed a very sufficient illus- 
tration of the excellence of the workmanship, and of the taste of 
the workmen. 

The Prince had many to remember at Parell ; and there was 
a little levee in the Hall when he was about to take his place in 
his carriage. There was not, however, any great gathering of 
people along the roadsides, as they probably were not aware of 
the hour of his departure. The sun was furious, and the Prince 
after a dusty drive once more saw, doubtless with pleasure, the 
sea, and the ships awaiting the moment of his embarkation for 
the utterance of their noisy welcome. The bay shone like a 
mirror — not a breath of wind. Dr. Fayrer, who has seen a good 
deal of other parts of India, expressed his opinion of Bombay 
in the " cold weather " in energetic terms, and most of those on 
board could sympathize with him. In the evening Sir Philip 
Wodehouse, his staff and suite, and others, came off to dinner, 
and there was a very pleasant evening, enlivened by the music 
of the band and India table-talk, till the guests departed for 
shore. The ships were again illuminated and in active erup- 
tion. 

November 18. — A night of great heat and sleeplessness, or, 
at best, of broken dreams, in which you could not decide whether 
you were under a tent, or in a railway carriage, or on an elephant 
or at sea. "What noise of falling rockets in mine ears!" 
Indian " bundabusts ", begin early, and the tumult of packing 
began to rage outside the cabins soon after dawn. The Native 
servants who came on board with their masters from Parell, and 
had slept on the hammock chests, not looking much the better for 
their '* snug lying," glided ghost-like about in their new quarters. 
The main-deck was the scene of immense activity from 6.30 a. m, 
8 



I/O THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

till noon, when the steamer for the shore luggage came along- 
side. The magazines of small arms were opened up ; rifles and 
smooth-bores, cartridges, pistols, shooting-clothes got ready, 
and there was a ripping up of tin cases, and a rending of timber 
not conducive to rest or to literary pursuits. When the lug- 
gage was off, there was a little calm, but no repose. Every one 
bathed in perspiration ; the air on board is what may be called 
" muggy." Most of us were driven out of our berths, and sitting 
in our very light clothing on the main-deck, outside our cabins, 
looked like icebergs on a sunny day. At lo a. m. the thermome- 
ter 86*^ in the shade between decks. At i p. m. the Prince went 
with the Duke of Sutherland on board the Undaunted^ to lunch 
with Admiral Macdonald. Dinner was half an hour earlier than 
usual j and the Prince and suite were dressed in patrol jackets 
to start for the journey to Baroda. Captain Glyn was confined 
to his cabin by a slight attack of fever ; Lord C. Beresford was 
compelled to remain on board in consequence of his fall at 
Poonah ; the Prince went round and said a few words to them 
before he entered his steam-launch. About 8.30 p. m. the Royal 
party landed at the Apollo Bunder. There were some hundreds 
of Indians, Europeans, and Parsees, at the landing-place, and a 
few hundreds more were collected along the route to the railway. 
Outside and inside the Station there was a large assemblage, 
wherein the Parsees were conspicuous. They have always been 
very much to the front. It is to be regretted that they are not 
more important as an element of strength, for they feel fully the 
advantage of living under Brittish protection. They are very rich, 
very commercial, very acute, and sufficiently civilized ; they are 
attached to a rule which protects them and enables them to make 
money. No one, however, supposes the Parsees could fight for 
us, or that, if left to themselves, they could do so successfully on 
their own behalf. 

The railway to Baroda traverses the island on which Bombay 
is built, and is carried by a series of bridges and embankments 
over the estuaries and rivers which mingle their waters in the 
low-lying district close to the sea, across Salsette, and so north- 



RECEPTION AT BARODA. I7I 

wards oy trie small Portuguese settlement of Damaun, the exist- 
ence of which was a novelty to many of us. 

November 19. — All the party were fast asleep in their snug 
Decls in the train when good General Sam Browne, like a bluster- 
ing East wind, came round knocking at the windows of the car- 
riages. " Get up ! get up ! We shall be at Baroda in twenty 
minutes ! " A great scrambling to get at clothing and uniforms 
ensued, and scarcely were we attired ere General Browne's words 
were verified. At 7.20 a. m. the train arrived. The Gaekwar, 
with Sir Madhava Rao at his side, and groups of resplendent 
Sirdars behind him, Mr. Melvill, the Agent of the Governor- 
General, and the officers of the British Government, civil and 
military, in full uniform, stood on the platform at Baroda, which 
was beautifully decorated with green wreaths and festoons, and 
decked in flags and flowers, to welcome the Prince. Outside 
there were triumphal arches, and a vast sea of dark faces under 
the red Mahratta turban — and turbans of every hue, green, 
white, and blue — was visible ; and a mighty gathering, which 
might be counted by tens of thousands, spread out along the 
roadside far as the eye could reach, all looking the same way, 
all eyes fixed on one and one object only — the son of the Em- 
press, the Shahzadah of Hindostan. A regiment of Baroda In- 
fantry in yellow coats and quaintly-shaped shakoes was drawn 
up before the Station. Two squadrons of Lancers belonging to 
the State were formed in their rear, and presented a very pretty 
show in their powder-blue uniforms and turbans — the bands on 
the flanks. The Prince exchanged greetings with the Gaekwar 
and Sir Madhava and the British officials. Such a clang of 
drums and brass and braying of clarions arose when he was 
seen ! As the Guard of Honor (of her Majesty's 83d Regiment, 
under Captain Windham) presented arms, the Gaekwar's in- 
fantry, to the roll of kettle-drums and trumpet flourishes, did the 
same. The Prince took the little Maharaja by the hand, sat 
down and spoke with him for a short time. He then passed 
outside to the steps leading from the entrance of the station, 
before which towered an elephant of extraordinary size; on his 



1/2 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

back was a howdah of surpassing splendor, which shone like 
burnished gold in the morning sun and which was either made 
of gold or of silver gilt. It was covered with a golden canopy. 
This exquisitely finished carriage, reported to have cost four 
lacs of rupees, was placed on cloth of gold and velvet cushions, 
fastened over the embroidered covering that almost concealed 
the outline of the great elephant, which stood swaying his painted 
proboscis to and fro as if he kept time to the music of the bands 
outside. His head v/as colored of a bright saffron, and on this 
ground were traced quaint scrolls. His proboscis was especially 
ornamented in different colored patterns, and his ears were 
stained of a pale yellowish-green. His tusks had been sawn off 
to the length of three feet, and false tusks of greater diameter, 
also shortened, were wedged over them by bands of gold. His 
painted legs were encased in thick round coils of gold. The 
mahout was attired in a costume befitting such a gorgeous 
charge. Attendants stood by with State umbrellas, fans of pea- 
cocks' feathers, yaks' tails, and streamers of scarlet and cloth of 
gold, which they waved before the Prince, others held the silver 
ladder for him to ascend to the howdah. After a short pause to 
survey the scene, the Prince and the Gaekwar descended the 
steps. The beast in golden raiment, in a succession of convul- 
sive heaves and jerks, dropped down upon what elephants rest 
upon. The ladder was placed against the howdah, and the 
Prince, carefully helped, stepped up, tl^e Gaekwar followed and 
sat by his side. Sir Madhava Rao, in small white turban and 
purple velvet robe, took his place. At the word to rise, the 
mountainous creature swayed to and fro, and the Prince held on 
strenuously to the rail in front while the animal was establishing 
itself on its fore-legs. The attendants, with State umbrella, fans, 
and yaks' tails, clung by the sides. Then, as the elephant made 
its first stride, the clamor of voices and of sound deepened and 
grew and spread onwards, and the artillery began a salute which 
announced that the Prince and the procession had set out. The 
next elephant, stained a French grey, or slate color, and red,' 
his proboscis richly arabesqued, was even larger, but he was 



STATE ELEPHANTS. 1/3 

not SO quiet. His howdah was of burnished silver, on a cloth 
and cushions scarcely less splendid than those on the Royal 
elephant. Massive rings of silver encircled his tusks and legs ; 
his mahout and attendants were dressed to match. The Duke 
of Sutherland and Mr. Melvill got on the second elephant. The 
third elephant, which was rather of a difficult disposition, and 
by flourishes of its tail and aberrations of its proboscis, caused 
thrills of anxiety to its riders, bore Sir R. Meade, Sir B. Frere, 
and myself. Other elephants, each painted and stained in dif- 
ferent fashion from his fellows, and each with his peculiar how- 
dah and trappings, stood in line behind. To the right a row 
of tliese animals, to whom the adjective " sagacious " belongs of 
right, knelt down in line, as if dressed by a drill sergeant, and 
remained making salaams till the Prince had passed. Then 
they arose and followed in the procession. Beyond the line of 
elephants clearing the way in front of the Prince was an advance- 
guard and escort of the 3d Hussars, under Captain Gibson, 
which only arrived three hours before from Bombay, and turned 
out smart and fresh as possible after a tedious journey of more 
than eighteen hours. In the rear were three guns of E 9 Battery 
R. A., under Captain Georges ; Major Wakefield's detachment 
of the 83d Regiment furnished the infantry escort.- A detach- 
ment of the Gaekwar's Artillery, a cavalry band, a troop of the 
Baroda Horse — irregular cavalry — a great crowd of Parsees, 
Sirdars, and small Chiefs, Mahrattas, Guzeratees, on horseback 
and on foot, followed. 

The interest taken by the population in the Prince's move- 
ments is gratified by the full accounts in the . Native papers, 
which are generally accurate. It is very curious to watch the 
groups collected round the happy possessor of a programme 
whenever there is a procession, and to see them checking off 
the various personages in the carriages, who are not infrequently 
out of their places, so that the impressions conveyed by their 
observations are not seldom erroneous. To them, however, 
Tyrian and Trojan are much alike ; but the offices held by 
various members of the suite are subjected to strange transla- 



174 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

tions in the different languages of the people. Even here in 
Barocla, they had their programmes, and scanned the occupants 
of the howdahs very keenly, though their great anxiety, now 
happily set at rest without any manner of uncertainty, was to 
see the Prince. Sir Bartle Frere, Sir R. Meade, and Mr. Mel- 
vill were the only Europeans of whom they had ever heard be- 
fore, and the finest sort of uniforms and most valued decorations 
and orders, surmounted by the spiked helmet, could not have 
struck a crowd accustomed to the bright robes and jewels of 
Native Chiefs. 

The procession set out in single file to the famous Resi- 
dency, some three miles distant, with a pomp and circumstance 
which only the East can show, for surely of all the vehicles on 
which human pride and state were ever borne, the caparisoned 
elephant is the grandest and most striking, and those of the 
Gaekwar excel ' in stature and (always excepting No. 3) in 
dignity of deportment. The cavalry which lined the way, the 
native carriages, the crowds from the Station to the Canton- 
ments beyond which lay the Residency, and the novelty of the 
procession, invested the Prince's entry to Baroda with unusual 
interest. The whole of the way, every inch of it, was bordered 
by a light trellis-work of bamboos and palm strips, hung with 
lamps and festjoned with bright green leaves and flowers, and 
there were at intervals grander arches and clusters of banners. 
It was astonishing to see how much had been done in the time. 
Due praise should be given to Mr. Hill, Engineer to the Govern- 
ment, for the skill with which he designed devices and illumina- 
tions which made the road gay by day and resplendent at night. 
The people seemed very comfortable, no sign of the wretched- 
ness we are so fond of attributing to Native rule ; and the city, 
so far as we could judge, was clean and bright to a degree. 
At the Cantonments the two Native regiments, the 9th Bom- 
bay Native Infantry and the 2 2d Bombay Native Infantry, 
and the rest of the 83d Queen's were drawn up in front of their 
lines with bands and colors, and saluted. 

There was very short notice of the visit. The Indian city is 



THE BARODA RESIDENCY. 175 

large; the English station very small. The resources were few. 
Mr. Melvill only arrived a clay or two before the Prince came, 
and Indian hospitality was driven to its wits' ends, but not to 
the end of its resources. The Residency is a wretched, tumble- 
down old place, with very small accommodation. The Prince 
had a small suite on the ground-floor. Sir Bartle Frere had a 
room next that of the Duke of Sutherland, on the first floor ; 
Major-General Probyn occupied the historical (recent history) 
apartment in which Brigadier Phayre's poisoned chalice was 
prepared, aad his window looked out on the spot where the 
pommelo juice fell and the poison was scraped up ; Lord Ayles- 
ford had the room adjacent. Major-General Browne, Colonel 
Ellis, Dr. Fayrer, Mr. Grey, Mr. Hall, &c., lived in tents, not of 
the best, at the back of the Residency, pitched so as to form 
three sides of a square. These tents and furniture were sent 
up from Bombay. " Doubling up " generally was the order of 
the day and of the night. 

The procession arrived at the Residency, in an hour. There 
was then a Durbar, at which the Sirdars were presented, and 
the suite were presented to the Gaekwar. When the leave-tak- 
ing came, the Prince led the Gaekwar to the entrance. The 
elephants, with gold and silver howdahs, and the whole of the 
brilliant sowaree, were waiting there, with the guard of honor 
and the Gaekwar's own escort. He mounted to his seat, and 
with the clang of music and measured throb of cannon, which 
gave him his Royal salute, returned to his palace at Baroda, 
some three miles distant. Then Mrs. and Miss Melvill were 
presented to the Prince, and the officers on duty and at- 
tached to the Staff were invited to table, and there was subse- 
quently a reception or levee for European officers. Before 
the hour fixed upon for the return visit to the Gaekwar, the 
Prince shot a few specimens for the naturalist, in a small tope 
close to the house, which was full of paroquets, woodpeckers, 
orioles, and other birds which were seen by him at liberty for 
the first time. 

It was 3.30 p. M. when the Prince set out to pay his return 



17^ THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

visit to the Maharaja. Native policemen lined the streets, and 
Sowars kept guard at the crossings. At various stages there 
were guards of honor of the Gaekwar's troops — the Plorse 
in leather helmets with scarlet tufts, red-embroidered tunics, 
breeches, and boots — a uniform devised probably 1 y some of 
the old foreign officers formerly at his Court ; one of the infan- 
try regiments in the Highland uniform already described, which 
seems so curious, and which, nevertheless, suits the brown faces 
wonderfully well, and would be quite correct were it not for the 
ridiculous pink calico tights beneath the kilts. Trumpet flour- 
ishes, roll of drums, presented arms, standards lowered, spoke of 
ancient discipline. There were many vestiges of barbaric and 
costly state which must have often vexed the souls of honest 
economical British Residents, and have caused the unsympa- 
thetic and practical British Government to cut off slice after slice 
of territory to satisfy creditors and to insure payment of debts. 
The city is curious. There are drains covered with wood along 
each side, and some idea of a path for foot-passengers, but there 
is no pavement. The houses generally consist of two stories ; 
the ground-floor, raised above the level of the pathway, open to 
the front, is used as a shop or a store ; the first-floor has a 
veranda and a balcony of carved wood, which is painted in 
some bright color — red, yellow or sea-green — so that the effect is 
very brilliant. The Hindoo temples are small and unobtrusive. 
The shop fronts and verandas were filled with Mahrattas in 
their large red turbans and white robes, or Guzeratees from the 
up-country in smaller head-dresses. A parti-colored crowd, two 
or three deep, sat or stood — ^keen-eyed, curious, and quiet — 
along the mile and a half of winding streets through which the 
cortege passed. There were respectful salaams, and now and 
then some Parsees cheered ; but the attitude of the multitude 
was one which it would be difficult to characterize if it were 
judged by European standards. Few women were visible, but 
abundance of children of both sexes, in the lightest costumes, 
were held up by the men to see the show. The Prince passed 
under the Clock-Tower gateway, which was the place d'armes 



THE GAEKWARS COURT. 1/7 

during the troubles that follov/ed the deposition of Mumar Rao. 
It is placed at the intersection of the two main streets, and is 
still occupied as a military post. Soon afterwards the proces- 
sion came out on the road to the old Palace, and defiled through 
a triumphal arch (of which there were many on the route), 
near which the children of the Gaekwar's schools were drawn 
up. The Palace is one of the ordinary residences of Native 
Princes, built under European inspiration, and presents a poor 
front ; but there was a great display of mirrors and lustres in- 
side, and the attendants were in fine costumes. 

On the arrival of the Prince, he found the little Gaekwar 
with all his jewels on, Sir Madhava Rao in studied plainness of 
attire, with a background of Sirdars and shrewd-looking Parsees, 
waiting to receive him on the steps at the portico. The Maha- 
raja is, as one of the suite said, " a boy such as one may see all 
over the place " — with soft mild eyes, and sad subdued look. 
There were three boys of the stock of the Gaekwars picked out 
for adoption in the succession to Mulhar Rao by Sir R. Meade, 
and after three interviews tlie widow of Khandee Rao selected 
him. One wonders if he is as happy in his diamonds and em- 
eralds as he was when he was running about his native village. 
The Maharaja led the Prince up stairs to a room, hung with large 
chandeliers, with colored prints on the walls. They sat side by 
side for a time, during which the^ Prince talked pleasantly through 
Sir Madhava Rao's interpretation. The Sirdars, Ministers, and 
ofiicials under the Native Administration were presented, and 
offered nuzzurs, which were duly touched and remitted. A 
wreath was placed round the Prince's neck by the Maharaja — uttur 
and pan went round — and the Prince was led by his host to the 
door of the Maharanee's apartment. Jumnabaae is an exceedingly 
engaging and graceful lady, not yet thirty years of age, with a 
pleasant face, bright eyes, and agreeable smile. Her hands 
and feet are particularly small and well-shaped. The former 
were not overdone with rings, but her Highness would probably 
not be able to take a long walk by reason of toe-rings, one of 
which, on her left foot, seemed to exercise some control over her 
8* 12 



178 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

motions. She was unveiled, but from time to time she drew, as 
if instinctively, her tissue shawl over her head. She held her 
little daughter, "who," said the Maharanee, " would have been 
Gaekwar had she been a boy," by her knee, and the child's gov- 
erness, an English lady, sat a little behind her. The Maharanee 
was delighted with Bombay ; honored beyond expression by the 
Prince's visit; hoped he would like Baroda; and was. much in- 
terested in the success of his shooting-party, as to which she had 
given orders. The Prince presented his suite, and started for the 
Agga, or the arena for wild-beast combats, where he arrived 
shortly before 5 p. m. 

The Agga is an enclosure of 180 yards long by 60 yards 
broad, with walls 20 feet high. These walls are pierced by low 
archways, into which the men engaged may retreat in case of being 
attacked by the animals. At the western extremity there is a 
Grand Stand three stories high. On entering the gateway two 
elephants were seen, one tied to the wall opposite the Grand 
Stand, and another chained to the wall on the right of it. As 
soon as the Prince had taken his place in the front, with the 
Gaekwar by his side, two wrestlers, quite naked except at the 
waist, advanced, and after -profound salaams, grappled. The 
pulwans of Baroda are not so famous as those of Lucknow, but 
these fellows were masses of brown muscle — a little abdominous, 
perhaps — but still of enormous power. Other athletes came 
into the field, so that there were at first four, and afterwards six, 
groups of flesh — animated Laocoons — striving, writhing, and 
rolling about in the dust, in such knotted coils of arms and legs 
as baffled discrimination. They were matched so well that only 
once did the applause of the spectators announce a victory 
and a defeat — the great feat of strength by which one of the 
wrestlers, uprooting his antagonist from the ground, prizes him 
over his knee, and throws him over so that both shoulders touch 
the ground. The wrestlers advanced to the stand, salakmed 
to the Prince and Gaekwar, and retired. One of the elephants 
was then let go, and we saw that its tusks had been sawn off 
short, and that it was a beast of infinite bonhomie of countenance. 



SCENES IN THE ARENA. 1 79 

But it had, a temper of its own. After some insults from the 
people in a safety arch, which seemed to exercise it amazingly, 
and which it resented by trying to tear down the wall, it was 
provoked beyond endurance by others who came out with spears 
and red cloths. It suddenly trumpeted, and made a charge, 
which sent the recreants flying into their recesses again. Then 
it stood, pondering on the situation, in the centre of the arena. 
While it looked at the Prince of Wales and other distinguished 
visitors, as if it were conjecturing what they thought of it all, the 
elephant at the other end of the enclosure was let go free. When 
the elephants perceived each other, they advanced kindly as 
if to inquire after each other's health. But the persecuting 
band who followed them would not have it so. By shouts, lance- 
pricks, and other aggravating acts, they inspired the beasts with 
the belief that they ought to be enemies. They accordingly put 
down their heads and fought ; but these sagacious creatures 
were, I think, only making believe. They merely put on the 
gloves and had a few rounds. Certainly there was hard hitting 
and tremendous head-collisions ; tusks rattled and clattered, pro- 
boscis met proboscis in intricate convolutions, the vast hulls shook 
under the strain of combat ; whether they really meant mischief or 
not it was impossible to determine, for at the critical moment when 
they had tied their trunks up in a knot, men with squibs at the 
end of spears let them off under the combatants' bellies. I am 
sorry to say the heroes bolted. After a pause, however, the com- 
bat was renewed. The elephant which seemed to have had the 
worst of it in the last bout, by some dexterous manoeuvre now 
managed to turn his enemy's flank, and butted him on the quar- 
ter and stern with such force that — amid the cheers of the crowd 
— he turned and fled, smitten heavily, and "rammed" by his 
pursuer till he was brought up by the wall, when the men with 
rockets and squibs came in once more, and -the combatants were 
separated. The manner of securing the elephant when the fight 
is at an end is clever. While his attention is directed to men 
in front, who menace and tantalize him with spears and flags, 
others, armed with large iron clamps, watching their opportunity 



i8o 

behind, clip first one and then the other of his hind legs in the 
implements, over which they lasso strong ropes, so that the beast 
is unable to run, and is thus led off to his quarters. The pret- 
tiest little entr'acte followed this combat. Just as a third elephant 
was led out and provoked to a proper state of indignation and 
temper, a lithe compact sowar, mounted on a croppy little horse, 
with a jerky action and a jaunty step, came into the arena. The 
cavalier perked up to the beast, which stood balancing itself, now on 
one leg, then on another, and flopping its proboscis about angrily. 
There is a strong antipathy between horse and elephant, but the 
horseman cantered his steed close up to the brute in a very con- 
fidential manner. The elephant appeared to take no notice of 
the sowar, who had not even a whip, and guided his horse by 
hand and the stirrup-irons. Suddenly the elephant uttered a short, 
sharp trumpet-note, and made a furious rush at his tormentor. 
It seemed as if man and horse must die. The end of the pro- 
boscis was all but on the rider's shoulder ; a murmur ran round 
the arena — a cry of horror — which was changed into a burst of 
applause — as the sower, with a plunge of the sharp edge of his 
stirrup-iron, shot away, wheeled round, and, before the elephant 
could get himself together again, was capering provokingly at 
his flank. Again and again the scene was repeated, till the ele- 
phant was not able to run, but the sowar was never so near cap- 
ture afterwards. Every one admired his perfect coolness and 
horsemanship j and when the elephant was fairly tired out, his 
victor rode away among renewed plaudits. Not always is it so : 
sometimes the rider and horse are overthrown ; and we were told 
of horses trampled to death, and of riders only escaping by get- 
ting between the elephants' tusks. Khandee Rao, the Gaekwar 
who preceded Mulhar Rao, was very fond of these sports, and, 
like the Roman Emperor, whom he resembled, it is said, in other 
ways, he would often descend into the arena and contend with 
his pulwans. I dare say they were perfect courtiers, and knew 
better than to " grass the Gaekwar." 

The bar across the end gateway was now lowered, and half-a- 
dozen men came in, tugging at a rhinoceros. He had heavy 



SCENES IN THE ARENA. l8l 

chains on his legs, and was "roped " before and behind — a cap- 
tive Behemoth. However, this was all "make-believe," too, for 
when the ropes were shpped off, the unwieldy thing toddled 
about grunting like a pig, and looked as if he wished to ft)llow 
his keepers. Presently another rhinoceros was introduced to 
his fellow. Two merchants could not be more amiable on first 
introduction on 'Change. They came nose to nose, as if to ex- 
change civilities, but the attendants began to excite ill-feelings 
by poking and patting them alternately, and by horrid yells, and 
one rhinoceros — lowering his head till his chin, or lower jaw, 
rested on the sand — made a thrust with his snout at his friend. 
The blow was hard, as the noise it made testified, but it was 
delivered on an adamantine front. It was at once returned — the 
crowd were delighted. There were quick encounters, blow for 
blow, till it occurred suddenly to the first rhinoceros that it was 
nonsense to get heated and worried all for nothing, so he turned 
round and made off as hard as he could lumber towards the gate- 
way. But the bar was down ; his backers and friends reproached 
him for his want of spirit ; he was again goaded up to his antag- 
onist, who was standing as though he too were wondering what it 
all meant, when he received a treacherous dig in the side, which 
made him quiver from stem to stern. Then he turned, and the 
brutes, with levelled rams, had a keen bout, in which they were 
deluged with cold water to keep up their courage by the attend- 
ants, till the former runaway performed his retrograde move- 
ment again, to the amusement of the audience, nor could he be 
induced by threat-s, abuse, flattering fondlings, and abundance of 
cold water to renew the fight. It was evidently a relief to the 
less cowardly when his antagonist ran off, and he did not show 
any inclination for pursuit. Exeunt two degraded rhinoceroses, 
for neither could be described as " game " or heroic ! 

Two buffaloes, which next stepped into the ring, were animals 
of very different mettle. They rushed to the encounter. The 
arena rang with the clatter of their horns. It was real fighting ; 
with strained hind-quarters, heaving sides and lashing tails they 
strove, head to head, with passionate fury. But equals in rage, 



1 82 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

they were not matched in strength ; the smaller gave way, and 
was pushed back, slowly at first, and then at a run, till he fairly 
turned his flank. In an instant he was hurled on his back, for 
the conquering buffalo dashed at the exposed side, and, putting 
down his head below the belly of his enemy, butted him right 
over. There was no lack of courage on the part of the other, for, 
worsted as he was, he got up and renewed the conflict, but, after 
one desperate rally, in which the result was not doubtful and the 
damage to the defeated buffalo not slight, he was — not inglori- 
ously— driven oif the ground. An exhibition of fighting rams 
followed ; but the champion, covered with garlands and brocade, 
was considered too good for anything on the ground, and the 
contest was left to rams which had their spurs to win. There 
was nothing of the timidity of the sheep in their engagements. 
The fury of their charges, the tremendous cracks with which - 
their heads met together, were worthy, we are told, of great 
praise, and I certainly would sooner see them than a couple of 
prize-fighters at home, or than the pugilists with iron knuckle- 
dusters who exhibit sometimes at Baroda. Libra would not in- 
cline towards one Aries rather than to the other, and the rams 
were led away. When these contests were over, some of the 
zoological curiosities, in which Orientals as well as other people 
delight, were introduced. I believe the Prince might have had 
the whole collection had he expressed any desire on the subject. 
A nylghau driven in harness— not very tractable ; a pair of black 
bucks, harnessed and drawing a small carriage ; parrots in 
cages, &c., were paraded in front of the Grand Stand for the 
Prince's inspection ; and last, but not least, a Royal Bengal 
tiger was led out, lank, fiery-eyed, and savage, uttering growls, 
but scarcely capable of mischief, for hind-legs and fore-legs and 
body were bound with ropes, held by ten men at arms' length 
on both sides. Nevertheless, he was not by any means pleasant 
to look upon, and did strike out viciously with his right fore-leg, 
and very nearly laid hold of one of his guides. 

The Prince now rose, thanked the Gaekwar and Sir Madha- 
va Rao, and returned to the Residency. Night after night one 



1 83 

lives in a constant state of illumination. The consumption of 
oil at Bombay, Poonah, and Baroda must have been wonderful. 
Chinese lanterns and myriads of " buttees " made the lines of 
the Cantonments and the Stations almost bright as day, and the 
routes from the Residency to the City, and to all the camps, 
blazed with lights suspended from trellis-work of bamboos. After 
an interval devoted to business and a change of dress, the Prince 
and suite drove over to the lines of the 9th Native Infantry, 
where he was received with due honor by Colonel Thompson 
and his officers, and dined with the regiment, which seemed very 
sensible of the honor. It was the first occasion on which a 
Native corps had ever entertained an Heir-apparent, and every 
effort was made to render it agreeable. 

November 20. — The cold was felt rather keenly last night 
by the outsiders. In the original programme the Prince was to 
have gone from Calicut for Coimbatore early this morning. Alas ! 
how " the best-laid schemes of mice and men gang aft aglee ! " 
We were starting for the deer preserve of the Gaekwar for a 
day's sport. Noises outside at 4 a. m. ; lights in the tents at 
5 A. M. ; shooting-clothes in request, and much tribulation among 
native servants unfamiliar with the language of detail. At 5.30 
A. M. the members of the suite who were to go with the Prince as- 
sembled at the Residency, which was already lively enough, for 
servants were busy preparing the " little breakfast," which in 
England would do duty for a big one. The rays of the sun just 
slid over the tops of the trees which surround the building and 
touched the tips of the lances of the escort, and the bayonets of 
the sentries— the sentries of the 83d Europeans being outside the 
line of the native Infantry. Breakfast was hurried over, the Gaek- 
war's carriages were at the door, trumpets flourished, the guard 
presented arms, and at 6.15 a. m. the Prince and suite whirled 
away in a cloud of dust to the old railway station. Mr. Melvill, 
Sir R. Meade, Colonel Thompson, Major Bradford, Lieut.-Colo- 
nel Barton, Captain Jackson, and other officers and officials 
accompanied him. The special train— two saloon carriages and 
a van— rattled off to a place some eight miles distant, where the 



^ 



184 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Prince was to begin his shikar. The line runs through a country 
of exceeding richness — level as a billiard-table, but so wooded and 
crop-laden that it was quite impossible to get a glimpse of the 
horizon except where the tent-like heights of Pounagurh, which 
people fondly believe to be a Hill-station, rose above the trees. 
So it is that Baroda city, with its 90,000 inhabitants, lying close 
at hand, is invisible. It is not half a mile from the line, and 
yet there is no trace of smoke or dust in the clear sky above the 
human turmoil. There were not many of what are called " Na- 
tives " about, for they were at work in the fields, which, rich in 
growth of hemp of extraordinary height, maize, cotton and dhal, 
stole away under cover of the trees, to the sea, forty-five miles to 
the West, and spread far East to the confines of British India. 
Social gatherings of monkeys were much agitated by the train. 
Wayfaring peasants halted to take the look, which seems oblig- 
atory all over the world, at the locomotive and carriages. In 
half an hour the special halted at a station, where the Kasee Shab- 
ood-deen, representing the Baroda Durbar, was present with a 
great gathering of elephants, shikarees, sowars, camels and 
oxen, to receive the Prince. There was an escort of the Haik 
Pagah, or the Gaekwar's Body Guard in charge of a very gayly 
dressed young officer, who would have made a sensation at a 
costume ball in his green satin robe, and scarlet and gold cloth- 
ing. There were sowars and lancers capering over the plain; 
and altogether the scene was bright and animated as eye could 
see. Some half-dozen of Probyn's old Horse were there — 
splendid-looking Punjaubees, whose eyes flashed with pleasure 
as they recognized their former leader. To these were given 
the rifles and ammunition. Five or six cheetahs — I am not sure 
which — surrounded by their attendants, were standing upright 
on cars drawn by oxen, their eyes hooded, lashing their lank 
sides with their tails, hissing and purring by turns like monster 
tabbies. There were also ugly, fierce-looking dogs of the Per- 
sian type — half greyhound, half deerhound— in leashes, and eight 
falconers with splendid peregrines and inferior short-winged fal- 
cons on their wrists. The Prince inspected the cheetahs with 



SHIKAR PARTY. 1 8$ 

interest ; one was taken from his cart for closer investigation, 
at which it hissed savagely till it was stroked into good-humor 
by its keepers. 

The Prince then mounted an ox-cart with the Duke of Suther- 
land, and the rest of the suite followed on similar vehicles. This 
mode of conveyance was intended to permit the sportsmen to 
approach the black buck, which are accustomed to see long trains 
of hackeries or bullock wagons traversing the fields. The carts 
were, however, too highly ornamented, it is said, and the cortege 
was much too large. The elephants and sowars halted in the 
rear. The party then drove on to a vast plain called the Pre- 
serve. After a short time, herds of black buck were seen 
grazing amid the cotton-grass. They were much wilder than 
usual, and kept edging away from the carts which were driven in 
a tortuous line, and worked like a fleet seeking to bring an ene- 
my to action. The deer moved off towards thicker cover. 
Black buck are supposed not to mind carts, but they certainly 
were very vigilant on this occasion. Perhaps it was the novel 
costume, helmets, and London shooting-clothes, or the unusual 
length of the procession, which set them on the alert. At last 
a cheetah was slipped from the cart at a herd some fifty yards 
distant, and singled out a buck, which bounded with amazing 
springs across the plain. The cheetah being distanced, gave 
up the chase after a dash of about 500 yards, which is said to be 
about the longest run they ever make, as the' animal generally gives 
up after the failure of his first rush. The hunters now divided 
and beat in different directions, and many herds of deer were 
again seen, but they, too, were very wild. At last, after much 
manoeuvring, a cheetah was brought sufficiently close, and was 
unhooded. It sprang from the cart at a herd and pulled down 
a buck, which was engaged in fighting with another, catching it 
fast by the throat. When the cheetah seizes buck or doe the 
agony is short, for the shikaree runs up, and, after the custo- 
mary ejaculation, " May it be lawful ! " puts an end, with keen 
blade, to the victim's struggles, and " grollocks " it, more Scotico. 
The blood of the poor deer was given to the cheetahs, as a 



1 86 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



broken-up fox is the reward of the hounds. The sportsmen 
mounted the carts again, and in half an hour got near another 
herd. This time two cheetahs w^ere slipped, and each pulled 
down its victim! 

Those who slip staghounds after haunched or broken- 




THE PRINCE OF WALES IN SHOOTING COSTUME. 

legged deer in the Highlands cannot logically charge those who 
follow this sport with cruelty ; but it is not one which commends 
itself to Europeans. The cheetahs were sent back; and the 
Prince tried stalking, but it was with difficulty the hunters could 
get within a long shot. The usual course is to drive till deer are 
seen, and then get out and walk alongside the cart, which is 
directed towards the herd. Even after the party broke up into 



CHEETAHS. 1 8/ 

detachments, the herds were wild and shy, and his Royal High- 
ness had only one chance, and that a very poor one, before lo 
o'clock A. M. The heat then became oppressive, but the Prince 
stood the sun wonderfully well, and marched through the deep 
stuff as if he were used to it, while Peter Robertson trudged after 
him, thinking, perhaps, that a little of the sunshine might well be 
spared for the valley of the Dee. Dr. Fayrer insisted on the 
virtues of umbrellas and shade, and at ii a. m. the sportsmen 
mounted their horses, and rode to the Palace, or shooting-seat, 
of Muckunpoora, a large block of building in the centre of a 
wide-spread plain. On his way the Prince came to a pool where 
there was a herd of buffaloes, guarded by a couple of little girls, 
and, dismounting from his horse, went towards them to get a 
shot at a Paddy bird. The sight of a white man was too much 
for the guardians of the herd, and they fled across the marsh 
with piteous cries, not at all reassured by the shouts of a sowar 
who was despatched to comfort them. The shelter of the Pal- 
ace, where breakfast was laid out in a room with thirty-six enor- 
mous lustres and as many side-lights, was very welcome. 

The sportsmen, perforce, rested till 3 p. m., when the sun 
became somewhat less powerful, and then set out to try for black 
buck. At 5.30 P. M. the Prince returned with a fine buck, which 
he had killed at 200 yards, and Colonel Ellis with a doe. The 
day ended pleasantly, if the sport was a little disappointing — a 
great authority having promised the Prince at least twenty shots. 
At 6 p. M. the Prince drove back to Baroda. Sowars and po- 
lice patrols were posted at intervals along the road, and a cavalry 
escort guarded the carriages. The Prince arrived at the Resi- 
dency, where he was received with the usual honors, at 7 p. m., 
changed his shooting-dress for uniform, and dined with the Col- 
onel and officers of the 22d Native Infantry in the Cantonment 
at 8 p. M. The mess-room was very prettily decorated with 
garlands, wreaths of flowers, banners and trophies of arms. At 
one end of the table were some fine skins of tigers shot by Col- 
onel Nuttall, and the Prince of Wales' plume on the wall behind 
his Royal Highness was creditable to the skill of the contriver, 



155 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Colonel Nuttall proposed the health of the Queen, and then that 
of the Prince of Wales, who, after an expression of the pleasure he 
felt at meeting the officers, and an acknowledgment of their 
very gratifying reception, gave the health of the regiment. Col- 
onel Nuttall, in returning thanks, said the memory of that night 
would live in the annals of the regiment for generation after 
generation. The grounds around the mess-house were brilliantly 
lighted, and the Cantonment and the road to the Residency 
illuminated. 

November 21. — Jackals last night; parrots, minars, and 
crows, aided by a vigorous sun, early in the morning, could not 
banish slumber altogether ; but, tired as we were after an early, 
turn-out and a long day, it was not easy to sleep. The " Hook- 
umdarr } " of the Sepoy, and the " Who comes there ? " of the 
British soldier, pierced the single canvas of the tents very per- 
sistently, and to aid these lively influences, there was a perpetual 
tomtom-ing and a tomsaha-ing outside Baroda. The coldness of 
the weather, in comparison with that at Bombay, set all the ser- 
vants coughing terribly. And so I saw the sun rise above the 
trees. Odd creatures of natives, undoing the turbans they had 
bound their heads in, were crawling about the camp in the in- 
creasing warmth, like half-drowned flies trying to come to life j 
others, crouched on their hams, were cooking their rice ; others, 
petition in hand, waiting outside the line of police, for it is dif- 
ficult to persuade them that the Prince cannot redress all their 
wrongs. 

The Rev. Mr. Polehampton, stationed here as Garrison 
Chaplain, one of the athletic family so well known for their 
prowess as oarsmen, came over from Cantonments to the Resi- 
dency, and the Prince and suite attended Divine service in the 
large reception-room. 

The Native officers of thegth B. N. I. and of the 22d B. N. 
I. were presented to the Prince by their Colonels in the after- 
noon. Each came forward as his name was called, presented 
his sword with the hilt towards his Royal Highness, who touched 
it, and the officer then passed on, making a military salute, with 



A HORRIBLE SURPRISE. 1 89 

his hand to his turban. They were a fine-looking body of men, 
but it struck me that they were far too advanced in years for 
the active discharge of regimental duties. 

At 7 P. M. the Gaekwar's carriages were at the Residency. 
Half an hour later the Prince, with Sir R. Meade, Mr. Melvill, 
Sir Bartle Frere, and the members of the suite, drove to the 
Palace of the Mohtee Bagh. Perhaps his Royal Highness saw 
nothing in India more curious than he witnessed on the way. 
Outside the Cantonments there was a bridge, spanned by trium- 
phal arches most brilliantly illuminated. Men holding blazing 
torches stood along the parapets. But placed at the corners, 
and perched on stages and towers along the battlements, were 
the most grotesque and terrible things I ever beheld out of a 
dream. They looked like plaster statues. From beneath glisten- 
ing tiaras or bonnets, wigs of snaky hair flowed over opaque 
white faces, which were set on tinselled bodies decked with 
wings of scarlet, picked out with gold and silver tinsel, which 
projected from the shoulders. Dresses resembling Elizabethan 
sacques, of brocade and tinsel, concealed all shape or form. In 
the inanimate hands were held stiffly bouquets, fans, swords or 
lances ; but we started with horror when we saw the eyes — 
veritable coals of fire, set in those white stony faces of the wild- 
est aspect — turn as we passed them. Some thought the spectacle 
ludicrous — to me it was horrible. It seems that on such occa- 
sions young people of the lowest castes dress themselves up thus 
at the expense of the Native Court, and keep their finery as 
perquisites by right. Every road was marked out by lamps. 
The very trees of the groves adjacent were hung with lamps. 
There were lamps before all the houses. Lamps were strewed 
broadcast over the fields. There were ornamental towers and 
triumphal arches blazing with lamps. Chinese lanterns innu- 
merable swayed wherever they could be hung. Behind these 
lights stood a silent, solemn, brown-faced crowd ; and the effect 
of these lights on enormous masses of white clothed figures pro- 
duced combinations to drive an artist to despair. When one 
thinks that for all that distance, through a city where the 



1 90 

authority or the Empress's Government has been so very sternly 
and, as many think, unjustly asserted, the Prince passed almost 
within reach of an arm outstretched from the roadway, and that 
not a word of offence or gesture indicative of disrespect on the 
part of those myriads could be heard or seen, it must be 
admitted that the people of Baroda are, at all events, well- 
mannered. 

Once more we saw the Baroda Highlanders, the Baroda 
Horse, the gold and silver guns,* and the beautiful carriages of 
the Maharanee Jumnabaae, drawn by magnificent oxen, with 
gilt and silvered horns, covered with trappings of gold and 
silver tissue. The Gaekwar's band played " God save the 
Queen ; " his artillery fired a salute, his troops presented arms. 
The Gaekw^ar, Sir Madhava Rao, Shab-ood-deen, and the Minis- 
ters received the Prince on alighting at the steps. Unreservedly, 
trustingly, the Prince, followed by his handful of friends, passed 
into the Palace among the masses of swarthy retainers of the 
Court, all armed to the teeth, with the hand of the Gaekwar in 
his own. As a divertissement before dinner, the compariy were 
invited to inspect the Crown jewels, laid out on three tables in 
an adjoining room. They were well worthy the admiration of 
those who had such an opportunity of seeing concentrated riches. 
Let me tell a story. The late Gaekwar was fond of jewels. 
There came a merchant with certain precious stones, valued by 
him at 90,000/. The Gaekwar wanted money. So, said he, " I 
will buy the jewels ; and if you give me 30,000/. down, I will 
give you an order for 120,000/. on the Treasury." The jeweller 
agreed; he gave the Gaekwar the money, and he handed him 
over the jewels, for which he got a receipt and an order on the 
public purse for 120,000/. When the Gaekwar was removed, 
the jewels could not be found, and the jeweller is now pressing 
the Baroda Government for the payment of his little bill. I fear 
he is not likely to get it. 

When dinner was announced, the Prince led Mrs. Melvill 

* See Notes. 



THE GAEKWAR S PALACE. I9I 

down stairs to a long narrow pavilion in the garden. The dinner 
was in the European fashion, — Baroda fashion in the old days 
was said to be apt to disagree with one, — and it was not very 
long, which was a mercy. Towards the end Sir Madhava Rao 
appeared, leading in the Gaekwar. The Prince rose and made 
room for him by his side, Sir Madhava Rao standing at the 
back of his chair. After a short conversation. Sir Madhava, in 
the name of the Maharaja and Maharanee, proposed, in English, 
the health of the Queen, which was drunk with all honors, and 
next gave that of the Prince of Wales. The Prince, in returning 
thanks, expressed the pleasure he felt at being in Baroda, and 
his gratification at the cordiality of his reception. He thanked 
the Maharaja and the Maharanee for their kindness, and could 
assure them he would never forget his visit. The Maharaja was 
yet very young, but he had a great career before him. He 
predicted that the Maharaja, inspired by the able counsels of Sir 
Madhava Rao, would devote himself to promoting the welfare of 
his people, and would exert himself to develop the resources of 
the country he was called on to govern, so as to insure the con- 
tinuance of friendly relations between the two Governments. He 
gave the health of the Maharaja and the Maharanee. Sir Mad- 
hava, in reply, said the Maharaja and the Maharanee requested 
him to return their most grateful thanks for the manner in which 
their health had been proposed and responded to. They cer- 
tainly regarded that as the happiest moment of their lives. Long 
had they been gazing on photographs of English Royaltyo It 
was now their felicity to see that Prince who was heir to a 
sceptre whose beneficent power and influence were felt in every 
quarter of the globe ; which dispelled darkness, diffused light, 
paralyzed the tyrant's hand, shivered the manacles of the slave, 
extended the bounds of freedom, accelerated the happiness and 
elevated the dignity of the human race. They were grateful that 
the Prince had come from his distant northern home, traversing 
seas and oceans, as the gracious messenger of a gracious Queen. 
He had come to inspect an empire founded by the heroism and 
sustained by the statesmanship of England; to witness the 



192 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

spectacle of indigenous principalities relying, more securely on 
British justice than could mighty nations on their embattled 
hosts. He would be greeted everywhere with enthusiastic loy- 
alty and fervent devotion on account of his illustrious mother, 
and on account of his exalted position ; of the motives which 
prompted the visit, and of his own right Royal affability and 
graciousness. His visit to Baroda could never be forgotten, — 
never could fade in their memory. The occasion would be com- 
memorated by history, and would ever be associated with reno- 
vated strength and renewed stability of the State. He liad only 
to add a fervent prayer that their Royal guest would complete 
his progress to his satisfaction, and that he might have reason 
to regard with peculiar favor the weighty interests of the Princes 
and peoples of India ; that he might carry back to his Empress 
mother, and to the British nation in general, most gratifying 
messages of loyalty to and attachment on the part of divers 
nations, professing different creeds, differing even in color and 
costume, but united in gratitude for the benefits of British rule 
and influence. 

After dinner, the Prince, Gaekwar, ladies, and company 
returned to the Palace, where a clever performer played on a 
simple apparatus of cups of different sizes filled partially with 
water, to an acompaniment of zithers. Two girls afterwards 
sung characteristic music, and there was dancing of no great 
merit, although the performers, it was said, were highly esteemed. 
Coffee was served, and there was a display of beautiful fireworks. 
At 10.30 p. M. the Prince paid a visit to the Maharanee, .and 
expressed his pleasure at the visit, and his gratification at the 
sporting arrangements. The Maharanee was evidently greatly 
pleased at the Prince's expressions, and was very gracious to the 
suite. She came out with the Gaekwar, and bade them good- 
by at the steps of the Palace. 

The Prince drove to the Station at 11.25 p. m., where a 
special train was waiting to convey the party to the shooting- 
ground south of Mehmoodaba3. Mr. Shepherd, Collector of 
Kaira, a famous shot, was charged with the arrangements. 



ON THE SHOOTING-GROUND. I93 

Those who were not to go with his Royal Highness, or who 
were excused by him, returned to the camp, and made the most 
of their time next day. 

Novetnber 22. — The Duke of Sutherland and Mr. Grey 
went by special train to Ahmedabad with Colonel Barton, and 
greatly enjoyed their trip to that ancient city, and to its monu- 
ments and temples. The nights are cool, if the Bombay standard 
be accepted ; but the heat in the tents was of an aggressive 
character, and drove the thermometer up to 88° at 11 a. m. In 
reality, shooting in the open isnot so trying, although it may be 
more dangerous, than writing or working in the shade, even at a 
considerable reduction of temperature. Just as the sun rose, the 
Prince and his party got out of the train prepared for immediate 
action.- There were elephants, camels, ponies, tongas or country 
carts, waiting for the sportsmen, a capital set of beaters, and a 
fine stretch of country under such crops as quails affect — jute, 
bagrie, &c. It was not long before the fusillade began ; quail 
rose and dropped rapidly ; but it was not always easy to find 
the birds in the thick green crops. There were three kinds — 
the grey, the rain, and the button quail. One of the party killed 
a peacock, and now and then there were partridges and hares. 
The Prince made a large contribution in the shape of a sarus 
(crane), which was found near some swampy ground, to the 
collection which Mr. Bartlett is preparing. About 10 a. m. the 
bag was found to consist of iii quail and sundries. The Prince 
and party then rode to an old Temple, beautifully situated ovei: 
the river, where they found breakfast. The special train was 
reached at noon, and at 1.30 p. m. the Prince arrived at the 
Residency. Then there was a 7'eldche of two hours for lunch, 
and change of clothes for the pig-sticking expedition to Dubka, 
some eighteen miles south of Baroda. The party drove in open 
carriages to the ground, where they dined, and slept in two 
travellers' bungalows. The road was carefully guarded and 
patrolled, and the quarters were protected against intrusion for 
the night, 

JVove?nber 23. — The pig-stickers were up early, and rode off 

9 13 



194 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

to try their 'prentice hands at the most popular of Indian wild 
sports : but the crops were very thick, and somehow or other 
the pigs did not show as it was expected they would. Some 
good boars broke, and went away ; but at last the Prince had a 
chance of " getting his spear," as it is called, and killed a pig. 

The Duke of Sutherland, Sir Bartle Frere, and I took a 
drive through Baroda. The streets were filled with bullock-carts 
and foot-passengers ; consequently the yelling of the official in 
scarlet behind our carraige was incessant and deafening. We 
visited the potters' quarters, where the manufacturers were work- 
ing th^ir primitive wheels, turning out earthenware chatties at i 
pie each. One told us he could make 120 in the day, all told, 
which would give him more than ^s., but out of that he would 
have to pay for fire for baking, and for clay. Nothing could be 
more quiet, civil and courteous than the demeanor of the crowd. 
We drove by an ancient crenellated brick wall, with round tow- 
ers and casemates, from which protruded the muzzles of iron 
cannon — 3. work older than the Mahrattas. So on to a magnifi- 
cent tank, 500 yards square^ where elephants were bathing, 
people washing and drawing water, the surface covered with rich 
green scum, broken by the gambols of fish and water-serpents. 
It is 12 feet deep, and has not been drained nor cleared for 
many years. The priest of the Hindoo Temple near at hand 
came out and invited us to enter. The inner idol was not shown, 
but in the outer shrine we could see the image of a cow or ox 
covered with gold tissue. There were many Brahmins inside. 
Though some had frowns on their brows, they were civil. 
One elderly priest told us there was a sermon and service, by 
reason of a foundation from Khandee Rao, open to all, every 
Monday ; and he pointed out a lad of eighteen as the best of 
the preachers. , Our guide showed at the end that he was as well 
up in asking a fee as if he were a true British verger. Driving 
back we skirted the palace of Bhow Scindia, the luckless 
minister whom the deposed Gaekwar is said to have done to 
death. The irons and manacles forged by Mulhar Rao's orders 
for his brother's favorite and premier now lie in the Residency. 



RETURN TO BOMBAY. I95 

When we are told that Bhow Scindia had nothing to drink but 
salt water and pepper, in equal proportions, that he wore these 
chains and lived for fifteen days on such diet, it must be admit- 
ted, by those who believe the story, that he had, at all events, a 
very fine constitution. We passed next through the quarter of 
well-to-do citizens, and observed strong police stations and 
guards as well as mounted men on guard at various places. It 
struck me that the Shroffs of the beau quartier regarded the 
strangers with less friendly eyes than the poorer classes, who 
were, however, negative in their demeanor. Some of the fat, 
sleek people sitting before their money-bags were absolutely 
scowling. Perhaps they had bad news of Turkish or Egyptian 
securities. The hunting-party returned in the afternoon, and the 
Prince received deputations and addresses from Ahmedabad and 
Surat. It is to be regretted that Surat, which possesses interest- 
ing remains of the early representatives of British enterprise, was 
left unnoticed, and that the mosques, tombs, temples of the 
famous old city, the seat of Mohammedan dynasties and Hindoo 
houses for so many years, could not be visited ; but Ahmedabad 
had not yet recovered from the effects of the dreadful inundation, 
and it would have been difficult to have made the necessary 
arrangements for Surat at short notice. The departure for 
Bombay was not so fine as the entry, but it was nevertheless 
made an affair of State, and the Gaekwar and all his people 
attended the Prince to the Baroda Station. Illuminations, bands, 
escorts, of course ; but the platform at the Station was in darkness, 
and Sir Madhava Rao was in some apprehension lest advantage 
might be taken to do mischief to the Prince or to the young 
Gaekwar in the confusion. Owing to changes in the arrange- 
ments, there was some delay in getting up the carriages and 
starting the train. 

Nove7nber 24. — The special train arrived at the Church Gate 
Station, Bombay, at 8.-40 a. m. Sir Philip Wodehouse and his 
Staff, the Admiral, Captain Glyn, Lord A. Paget. Lord C. Beres- 
ford (quite recovered), Mr. FitzGeorge, &c., were awaiting the 
Prince's arrival_, and procession was formed to the Dockyard, 



196 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

where steam-launches were in readiness to convey the party to 
the Serapis. It was not considered expedient to return to Parell,. 
or remain on shore, on account of the prevalence of sickness. 
There were renewed consultations respecting the arrangements 
for the tour after leaving Bombay. It was settled that after 
visiting Goa the Serapis shall call at Beypore, and that if the 
reports are unfavorable, she will go on to Ceylon, where the 
Governor is making every preparation for the reception of the 
Royal visitor. 

The Prince dined with Admiral Macdonald, who is invited to 
take a passage to Calcutta, and whose flag-ship, the Undaunted^ 
will proceed to Colombo. It was only by the exercise of Mah- 
ratta-like cunning, or of sturdy self-will, that any one could 
escape the pains and penalties of programme, or evade the 
grasp of official notifications. The Prince " Rex est et super 
grammaticam," but he was nevertheless very careful- of prescribed 
covenants with^the public, and it was only by hard work that he 
contrived to obtain relaxation. The Duke of Sutherland and 
others visited the institutions and sights of Bombay, and saw 
their friends at their ease without the " Magna comitans caterva," 
but it was not possible for the Prince to imitate the good Ha- 
roun al Raschid. The Towers of Silence — of which no more at 
present — the Holy Tank and Temple of Walkeshwar, the Craw- 
ford Markets, the European Hospitals, were Ml duly visited be- 
fore the Prince left Bombay, but each demanded its exertion and 
its "special " bundabust. The flourishing sect of Khojas, who 
acknowledge as their Chief the descendant of the Old Man of 
the Mountains, the veritable head of the Assassins, were grati- 
fied by seeing the Prince pay a visit to Agha Khan and his sons, 
the Persian Princes — for particulars of whom and of their history, 
please read the interesting papers in " Macmillan's Magazine " 
from the charming pen of Sir Bartle Frere. 

Whilst the Prince and his party were enjoying themselves at 
Baroda, Lord A. Paget, Major Sartorius, and Mr. FitzGeorge, 
&c., were engaged, in charge of Mr. Larcom, in search of tiger 
at Rajpoori. The Osborne arrived there on the 19th. Lord A. 



BOMBAY WEATHER, 1 9/ 

Paget, Mr. Larcom, &c., leaving the ship early on the 20th, made 
a good bag of wild fowl ; Major Sartorius, Lieutenants Fitz- 
George and Gough, &c., had fair sport among the woodcocks. 
On the 2ist, Lord Alfred Paget and others, leaving at 7.30 a. m., 
landed about two miles up the river. Under the orders of Mr. 
Larcom, the party toiled over hillside and through jungle until 
nightfall, without result. They landed again on the 2 2d. 
Came on distinct recent traces of a tiger; so it was evident that 
they had been sitting down not many yards away from the 
beast during lunch. Perhaps he did not like the white umbrellas 
of some of the party. The sun was hot, and umbrellas were no 
doubt. useful ; who does not remember the story of the Royal 
Bengal, who was driven off in his charge on a picnic party by 
the sudden unfurling of a sunshade ? The Jinjeera tiger might 
have been animated by similar antipathies. At all events, he 
was not killed. This short trip was a great relief to the ship's 
company. The crew made up water parties in a decided fash= 
ion ; sixty " salts " hauling away at the ship's net astonished the 
villagers every evening. By the light of a big bonfire on the 
beach, alternately working cheerily up to his neck in water, and 
running foot-races, "Jack'^ managed to enjoy himself com- 
pletely. To compensate for the scarcity of game, the party 
managed to bring back plenty of fish. 

November 25. — The steam-like clouds floating over Ele- 
phanta and the shore-line, and clinging to the surface of the 
water this morning, gave an indication of the heat which was 
not belied even when the sea breeze was freshest. Every one 
felt the influence of the climate. The very shipping, whilom so 
gay, had a depressed air, which corresponded too well with the 
sanitary condition of some of the crews ; the pendants and 
ensigns drooped in the morning haze ; a Vandervelde calm. 
The Doris, we know, is not at all healthy. The Philomel was 
away to the Malay Peninsula, despatched the night of the 
Byculla Club Ball, in consequence of the receipt of a telegram 
announcing the murder of Mr. Birch at Perak. Although we 
leave Bombay this evening, the route is still uncertain. A tele- 



igS THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

gram received from the highest quarter gave expression to the 
anxiety caused by the reports of cholera, and the shooting 
excursion in Southern India may be considered as definitively 
abandoned. Dr. Fayrer and Dr. Hartwell, whose name has been 
so long associated with sanitary reform, and who has done such 
good work in the city of Bombay, think there are symptoms of 
an impending outbreak of cholera all over the Madras Presi- 
dency. The programme for the tour, so carefully drawn up in 
London and in Calcutta, has been cut to ribands. Every day 
brings its despatch, every despatch has dashed so many hopes 
and plans. Not needlessly nor in vain w^ere warnings given 
that the set calendars in which the Prince's steps were meas- 
ured and his hours told off should not be relied on. There was 
not in all these linked sweetnesses one small space left for a 
day's break down — for an accident, for even a headache or 
indisposition. The fleet has been an object of great attraction 
to the Rajas and natives of all classes, and even the high-caste 
Brahmin was not superior to the curiosity of seeing the Serapis. 
Commanders and First Lieutenants feel on such occasions very 
much as a man does who sees a loutish fellow tread with muddy 
feet on the tail of a lady's robe, so that the patience of Com- 
mander Bedford was sorely exercised by hosts of strangers. 
But now the Rajas, to the great relief of the saluting battery, 
have nearly all gone away, pretty well cleared out, poor men ! 
and there was only one nine-gun wallah to notice the loss of 
this morning. The Serapis was, however, thronged by visitors 
on business, and many friends came to take leave in the "cool " 
of the morning (thermometer 88°), notably of Sir Bartle Frere, 
whose name is ever grateful in Bombay, notwithstanding the 
small carpings of economists who object to spending the money 
of the people in the improvement of the city and county m 
which they live. There was also that liveliness of moti(^n — 
going and coming — between decks, which denotes an impending 
arrival or departure, and many cases full of presents were being 
shiiDped and sent down the hold. 

There was some anxiety respecting a detachment of the party 



A HINDOO WEDDING. IQQ 

(Lord Suffield and Mr. KnoUys) which shoula nave been on 
board early this morning ; but they returned at breakfast-time 
from a visit to Sir Salar Jung at Hyderabad, which had proved 
very interesting and agreeable. They had not seen the Nizam, 
who was too ill to receive even his tutor, Captain Clerk. 

The Prince landed at noon to take leave of the Governor. 
It was a state ceremony, and the men-of-war and the vessels in 
harbor dressed and saluted, the crews manned yards, and 
cheered ; but there was naturally some diminution in the mani- 
festations of loyal curiosity which marked the first appearance 
of the Prince. The landing was at the Peninsular and Oriental 
Steam Company's Dockyard at Mazagone, where there were 
very few persons to receive the Prince, because he had arrived 
before the time at which it was understood he would land. 
There were the band, colors,^ and guard of honor of loo men of 
the 2oth Native Infantry, the escort of the 3d Hussars, and a 
half battery to satute. Mr. Souter was, of course, on the spot — 
where has he not been, and where is he not, wherever the 
Prince has been or is expected ? — and he sent off for the vehi- 
cles ; but he heard, perhaps with some dismay, that his Royal 
Highness wished, instead of driving direct to Parell, the way to 
which had been duly lined and patrolled by police, to visit the 
house of Sir Munguldass Nuthoobhoy, where there was a 
wedding festivity, which he intended to honor by his presence. 
Off flew a mounted Chief of the Bombay sbirri to make such 
dispositions as were possible to clear the new route of all im- 
pediments. The mansion lay in an out-of-the-way part of the 
town, — suburban, — but it was worth while to go there, for it is 
not given to every one to see the interior of a Native mansion 
at such a time ; and the visitors saw not only the interior of the 
house, but the ladies of the family, and the young men who 
were enjoying the festivity, and the bridegroom himself, who 
was a marvel of brocade and gold and silver lace and tinsel, 
with a tiara on his head, so that he might well have been taken 
for the bride. And in such attire was he to proceed on a 
champing charger, escorted by his friends, to bring his wife to 



200 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

her new home. Poor lad ! He seemed oppressed by fatigue, 
and no doubt would have given a good deal to have had the 
equestrain exhibition struck out of the programme. The house 
contained some good rooms, furnished in the mode which 
commends itself to the Oriental taste; and there were mir- 
rors, musical clocks, mechanical contrivances, chandeliers, and 
engravings, notably of British and European personages, in 
abundance. The ladies were in flutters of delight at the visit, 
and Sir Munguldass Nuthoobhoy gave full expression to his 
feelings at the honor conferred on him. There was a great 
crowd of Bombay merchants. Several were pointed out as 
being worth so many lacs of rupees, some as being worth 
millions of money ; and of these the chief were presented to the 
Prince — then uttur and pan, and good-by. The quantity 
of flowers in and outside was astonishing, and the scent 
overpowering ; nor did any who entered escape the be-wreath- 
ment and garlanding, which form part of all ceremonies, 
the Prince being especially festooned with the choicest. There 
was an impression in the minds of some of the visitors that 
they had been at a Parsee's wedding, for the full-dress tur- 
ban of the Bombay banker or bunneah has been adopted by 
the Parsees, and many think that it is their exclusive 
right to wear it. Away to Parell — streets lined, but not 
any great crowds of people. The Horse Artillery troop fired 
a salute ; a guard of honor, furnished by the 26th Native In- 
fantry, with band and colors, was in front of the House ; but 
a glance down the avenue showed that all the canvas was down, 
and that life in the tented field was over for the present. The visit 
to Parell was very grateful, surely, to the Governor and to the 
Prince ; but most of all, perhaps, to the Chief of Police (to 
whose activity, zeal, and administrative skill so much of the 
success of the Bombay festivities has been due — not a serious 
accident, not a riot, nor a fire); for the Prince, whose eye is quick 
to detect merit of the sort, thought it would be a proper recogni- 
tion of Mr. Souter's services to bestow on him the honor of 
knighthood ; and there were few happier men in the land that 



DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY. 201 

afternoon than the gentlemen who felt the touch of the sword 
held by the Prince as the accolade was bestowed, and heard the 
words, " Rise, Sir Francis Henry Souter ! " There was one 
small drop of bitter in the cup. The new knight had an heredi- 
tary right to be proud of "Prank," and he was styled " Francis ; " 
but he was rendered content by the assurance that he could call 
himself " Sir Frank," as he preferred it. After tiffin and sitting 
for photographs, the Prince left Parell to go on board the Serapis. 
At the Dockyard there was a guard of honor of the 2d Queen's, 
band and colors, under Captain Holt. The decorations had been 
furbished up, and, instead of *' Welcome," over the entrance, 
there was " God speed." The interior seemed comparatively 
empty, for most of the Rajas were absent. There were present, 
however, the Raja of Radhanpore, the Raja of Dranghdra, the 
Nawab of Jinjeera, and the Raja of Palitana, each with followers 
gorgeously dressed, and there were several of the white-gowned 
and turbaned Sirdars of the Deccan. Sir Michael Westropp, 
Sir Charles Sargent, Mr. Justice Kemball, Mr. Justice Melvill, 
Mr. Justice Green, Mr. Justice Bayley, the Hon. Mr. Scoble, 
the Hon. Mr. Rogers, the Hon. Mr. Gibbs, Major-General Ken- 
nedy, the Hon. Mr. Ravenscroft, Mr. Lee-Warner. Captain 
Morland, Captain Robinson, Mr. Barrow, Mr. Spencer, Mr, Orr, 
Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, his sons and brother, the Hon. Vish- 
wanath N. Mundlik, the Hon. Beecherdass Ambaidass, Mr. 
Nowrojee Manockjee Wadia, Mr. Manockjee Curtsetjee, Mr. 
Homejee Cursetjee Dady, Mr. Cursetjee Furdoonjee Paruck, 
Mr. Limjee Nowrojee Banajee, Mr. Pheroshah M. Mehta, and 
many others, and a great company of ladies, bouquets, kerchiefs, 
new dresses and fresh smiles, bright, fair and faithful to the 
last. 

The Prince walked slowly down the scarlet cloth, stopping 
frequently to shake hands with and speak to gentlemen and 
ladies who had been presented to him ; and, as he looked round, 
he noticed Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, walked over and shook him 
by the hand. He touched his helmet in answer to salutes from gen- 
tlemen who were not within reaching distance. A crowd of offi- 

9* 



202 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

cers and other gentlemen followed him to the Royal barge. The 
Prince stood engaged in conversation with Sir Philip Wodehouse, 
and several other gentlemen, for a few minutes. Then he step- 
ped back, shook hands with almost everybody present, being 
anxious that none of those who had been introduced to him 
should be missed. The barge shoved off amid deafening cheers, 
not only from those in the yard, but from thousands who lined 
the piers and thronged the Apollo Bunder. Five minutes after, 
a salute from the ships of war announced that-the Prince had 
Arrived on board the Serapis. The Governor and his suite and 
others were received, and paid their parting respects on board 
the Serapis in the evening ; some, as Major-General Browne, 
Major Bradford, Major Startorius, Major Ben. Williams, to re- 
join the Prince, others to their posts, all with recollections of a 
few graceful sentiments more treasured than the substantial 
souvenirs which were so freely bestowed. The list of these 
latter would be long ; but the name of Captain Robinson should 
not be omitted, nor the thanks the Prince conveyed to him and 
the Department over which he presided. At 5 p. m. the Serapis 
slowly moved ahead, with the faithful Osborne in her usual sta- 
tion, the Raleigh (freighted with all the special correspondents of 
the London papers and others, including Count Goblet d'Alviella, 
of the " Independence Beige," and M. de Coutoley, of the 
"Temps,") in a line parallel to her, and the Undaunted, flag of 
Rear- Admiral Macdonald, astern. 

At 6 p. M. the rays of the Colaba Light-House, which had 
first welcomed the Prince to the East, were casting their gleam 
over the waters in our wake, and almost as uncertain in his 
wandering along the coast as Vasco da Gama himself, the 
illustrious guest of the Viceroy of India was setting out to see 
what the Fates would send him on his cruise down the western 
coast of Hindostan. 




" HAULING THE SEINEo 



CHAPTER VI. 



Visit to Goa — A Portuguese Settlement — New Goa — Old Goa — Mancheels — 
The Cathedral — The Bom Jesus — A Fishing Excursion — Coast Scenery— 
Beypore^Cholera prevalent in the Shooting District — The " Moplahs " — 
A Remembrance of Tippoo — Otter Hunt — Quilon — The Tambarettes. 

November 26. — The Serapis continued her course south 
at a distance of some fifteen miles from land. The sea-line 
marked by a well-defined wall of cocoa-nuts j inland, elevated 
plateaux, leaving intermediate ranges cut up by valleys and 
sweeping plains. But what activity and life amongst people, to 
us as unknown as they were to the Portuguese when first their 
daring caravels ploughed these waters ! Close to land were 
running, as if engaged in a regatta, fleets of fishing-boats, with 
outriggers and lateen sails, and hereC and there larger native 
♦nerchantmen. All day long they passed to and fro, up and 



204 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

down, now and then coming quite close, the crews rousing them- 
selves up to stare at the unwonted bulk and grandeur of the great 
steamer, such as was never before beheld in those seas. At 
long intervals, wherever the coast offered a sheltering bay for 
commerce, there were traces of the works of former conquerors, 
and of races no longer in power. We passed Mai wan in the 
course of the afternoon, and soon afterwards Fort Melundy, a re- 
markable work, about 400 yards long, with sixteen bastions, built 
of dark-colored stone. At 1.30 p.m. the Osborne was signalled, 
and Colonel Ellis was sent on board with despatches to 
announce the arrival of the Prince, and to make arrangements 
for his reception at Goa. The Governor had been already 
informed that a visit might be expected from his Royal Highness, 
and preparations were made to do him every honor. In the 
course of the afternoon, the sea being perfectly calm, a remark- 
able appearance in advance of our course caused some uneasiness 
onboard, till the cause of it was understood. It was an elevated 
line of water in the shape of a A, the sharp end being at the distance 
of several miles, and the sides gradually extending outwards, so 
that it looked exactly like the sea marking a reef right on the 
centre of which we were running full speed. The Raleigh, 
which was on our port quarter, was signalled to, altered her 
course, and came up on the starboard and astern ; but after a 
close inspection through the glass it turned out to be nothing 
more than a long double ripple in the placid sea, the effect of 
the Osborne's course, although she was so far ahead as to be hull 
down at the time. At 5 p. m. we sighted Cape Aguada, which is 
north of the entrance to the river on which Goa and Panjim lie. 
It is a bluff, brown mound, with some buildings on the pointed 
summit, and with a fort, or rather a wall with a few guns 
mounted on it, at the base. At 7 p. m. the Serapis and Raleigh 
anchored about two miles out from shore, the Osborne being 
stationed inside. The night passed quietly, but they had some 
difficulty in preventing the Portuguese authorities coming off to 
welcome the Prince, and they were very anxious to fire another 
salute. 



A PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENT. 20$ 

November 27. — The morning sun lighted up the glistening 
sides of the Se?'apis, the warlike bulk of the Raleigh, and the 
graceful lines of the Osborne^ and of her small sister, the May 
F?'ere, as they sat on the quiet roll of a waveless sea, which lapped 
the verge of the wide spread of green cocoa-nut-palms fringing 
the shore. The number of pendants, and the array of steam- 
launches, barges and gigs passing to and fro between the vessels, 
gave a fitting appearance of state to the little squadron' flying 
the Prince's standard and the British ensign in Portuguese 
waters. Landwards were a few fishing or coasting boats, with 
broad lateen sails and high sterns. Then a low broken range 
of hills, above the outline of which rose higher and more regular 
summits. Here and there the detached tumular formations so 
frequent in this part of India were visible, and on one of these, 
close to the beach, was perched the Light-House, which looks 
like a fortified work. To the south crop up a few small islands. 
The settlement of Goa-Panjim is situated on the south bank of 
the river, some three miles from the headland. The town could 
not be seen from the anchorage, but one large house embowered 
in trees, and several smaller residences on the rising ground, 
could be made out through the glass. 

At 8 A. M. the Prince of Wales, in undress uniform, and his 
suite. Captain Glyn, Captain Tryon, Commander Durrant, &c. 
were conveyed in two steam-launches to the May Frere. The 
Raleigh woke up the echoes with her big guns, and before the 
salute was over, the cloud of smoke, curling in creamy folds 
and mounting upwards, hid all but the men on the top-gallant yards 
from view. At 8.45 a. m., as the despatch-boat ran past the 
ancient water battery at the north side of the creek on which 
Panjim is situated, the Portuguese fired a very creditable salute 
of twenty-one guns and hoisted the British standard. There 
were very few craft on the river, and no Portuguese or European 
vessels ; but as we were entering the creek, a steamer, which had 
been chartered to carry the Raja of Kolhapoor on his way home 
from Bombay, passed out to the north with many Native pas- 
sengers. The boats engaged in fishing were rudely made of 



206 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

thick, coarse planks of dark wood, with high projecting sterns; 
the rowers were all but naked. They are a squalid people to 
look at, very dark, like most of the natives of the coast, and do 
not seem to belong to the race of Hindoos to be seen inland. 
A coarse cloth, rarely clean, serves as turban, and nothing else 
have they in the shape of clothes but a very scanty loin-cloth. 
Their, oars are like maltsters' shovels, very nearly similar to 
those used in Bombay waters, which are poles with flat circles 
of wood nailed to the end. 

The river beyond the bar resembles the Thames below Graves- 
end, always assuming the cocoa-nut-palms on the banks as an 
invariable characteristic. As we came nearer, the resem- 
blance was strengthened by the aspect of New Goa itself, which is 
exceedingly like old Gravesend. The Government House looms 
like the old Falcon Tavern, and there are little bits^ by the 
river-side which remind one exactly of the more ancient build- 
ings above and below Rosherville. A range of wild ghauts is 
visible to the east. 

When the May Frere came up to a line of detached bunga- 
lows on the creek, the people ran towards the landing-place, 
where there was a multitude of persons, some in black hats and 
evening dress, others in less elaborate costumes, and others in 
the simple attire affected by the aborigines. The Portuguese 
turn very brown in these parts, and their native hue deepens 
greatly in India, where as we travel south the people generally 
acquire darker tints. The Europeans looked like Hindoos en 
costume^ and the entire absence of any sort of womankind added 
to the bizarre effect of the crowd on those whose eyes had 
been accustomed to see brilliant Parsee ladies everywhere in 
Bombay. As soon as the May Frere was moored about i oo yards 
from the Governor's House, a double-banked galley, pulled by 
eighteen men, who were dressed in a uniform which recalled 
the costume of the time of Elizabeth, put off. The scarlet caps, 
in front of which were fixed large silver plaques, worked finely, and 
said to be 200 years old, may be seen depicted in an old painting 
(at Venice, I think), representing a naval engagement between 



NEW GOA. 207 

the Turks and the Venetians, in which there is a boat in the fore- 
ground, rowed by men wearing caps and badges of very much the 
same form. The galley came alongside, two equerries received 
the Governor (Viceroy no longer) at the gangway. The Prince 
stood at the top of the ladder of the quarter-deck, and his Ex- 
cellency Tavares de Almeida, General of Division of the Royal 
Artillery of Portugal, and Governor of Goa, &c., ascended, and 
was graciously welcomed. His Excellency, who was highly 
decore for services in China, Mozambique, &c., was followed by 
Seno.r J. H. da Cunha Rivara, Secretary ; Major Albuquerque, Mil- 
itary Secretary ; Lieut-Colonel Pertana, Governor of Damaun 
(another Portuguese possession near Bombay) ; Captain J. T. F. 
Arez, R. N., Captain Fonseca, A. D. C, Captain de Lacerda, A. 
D. C, Senor B. J. de Lorena, &c. After a few moments' conversa- 
tion, the Prince, Governor, and suites were rowed to the landing- 
place of New Goa, where order certainly did not prevail. Though 
there was no shouting, noise, or violent shoving — still there was 
a strong desire to close in around the Prince, and the two stal- 
wart Punjaubees who carried the Prince's rifles, which were 
taken on the chance of a shot, as game was said to be abundant, 
exercised a very salutary influence in restraining the eagerness of 
the crowd. 

A very small place it is, indeed ; but an immense mass of 
people around the landing-place — of such mongrel aspect that it 
was very hard to say where Hindoo ended and European began 
— gave cause for wonder as to where they abode or where they 
came from, for outside the town all is cocoa-nut. The forces of 
the Government were drawn up — a European battalion, a Sepoy 
battalion, and a battery. The Sepoys, with European officers, 
were very much the same stamp of men as our own low-caste 
regiments, looking more like Madrassees than Bengalees. They 
were dressed in blue and yellow. The Portuguese officers smart, 
but rather sickly. The European battalion, on their right, ex- 
tended up across the Plaza to the Government House. When 
the crowd, making a most extraordinary chattering and jabbering, 
closed in, there was decided agitation of the two mounted officers, 



208 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

whose horses had probably never before been exposed to such 
an ordeal, and the " present arms " was almost too much for 
them. The Government House, which is not more than a cen- 
tury old, contains a very interesting gallery of portraits, removed 
from, old Goa : likenesses of all the Viceroys who- reigned in the 
names of the Kings of Portugal from the foundation of their great 
dominion in India till Viceroys ceased to be, and gave way to 
simple Governors-General. They may be as apocryphal as the 
likenesses of the Scotch Kings at Holyrood, but they have an 
air of genuineness about them ; and they stand in ruffs, collars, 
trunk hose, Vandyck cloaks — right gallant- looking gentlemen. 
Whether the climate was very deadly, or they made their fortunes 
very rapidly, it is certain they followed in quick succession, and 
two came in one year, which, considering the difficulty of the 
voyages between India and Portugal, is remarkable. The Prince 
went round the rooms with great interest, and after a time, taking 
his stand before a seat of honor in a chamber which was dec- 
orated with portraits of the Kings of Portugal and of some of 
his own Royal relatives of the House of Coburg, received the 
Archbishop of Goa and his clergy, and a number of Portuguese 
officials, who were presented to him by the Governor. The 
heat, if not overpowering, was distressing, and the buildings 
were crowded by the whole population of Goa apparently, who 
certainly had the Republican attribute of doing exactly as they 
pleased. 

Then his Royal Highness and the Governor embarked in the 
steam-launch of the Osborne^ and went three miles up the river 
to visit what remains of Goa proper, or " old Goa," abandoned 
more than 230 years ago on account of its unhealthiness. The 
river washes the remains of a great city — an arsenal in ruins ; 
palaces in ruins ; quay walls in ruins ; churches in ruins — all in 
ruins ! Long would it take to repeat the stories of our friends 
concerning the places we passed. As one of them said, " We 
were once great. We ruled vast provinces in this land. Now 
you are the masters. Look and see what is left to us ! " We 
looked, and saw the site of the Inquisition, the Bishop's Prison, 



OLD GOA. 209 

a grand Cathedral, great churches, chapels, convents, religious 
houses on knolls surrounded by jungle and trees, scattered all 
over the country. We saw the crumbling masonry which once 
marked the lines of streets and enclosures of palaces, dockyards 
filled with weeds, and obsolete cranes. 

Goa ! Somehow or other the " Inquisition " comes to one's 
mind when the place is named. But it has, or ought to have, 
memories of a nobler sort. The history of the Portuguese in 
India would point the moral and adorn the tale of a philosophical 
historian who should write of the decline and fall of empires. 
The Portuguese can fight, no doubt, as stoutly as they did in 
days of yore, and if they are not quite so potent in an eminently 
practical and rather severe theology as they once were, they 
have not been left ignobly behind in the race of modern civiliza- 
tion. Da Gama ! Albuquerque ! These are names to conjure 
with. It is a place an Englishman ought to visit. It is a jDlace 
which an English Prince, especially, may visit with great profit. 
If we are proud of our deeds and of our history in India, and 
if we are elated by the greatness of the doings of our race, 
we may be led by the aspect of ruins such as those which the 
Prince of Wales has been gazing upon to turn our thoughts to 
the investigation of the causes which sap the foundations of 
mighty States, and lay the work of statesmen and soldiers in the 
dust. 

At the landing-place some dozen wretched-looking natives 
were gathered. The distances are great, and if the stranger does 
not wish to be carried in litters resembling the Simla panjams, 
here called " mancheels," which are canopied seats slung from 
bamboos, which are borne on men's heads, he must walk. The 
Prince and the Governor got into one of these litters, not with- 
out some laughter, and were conducted to the Cathedral, which 
is half a mile from the landing. The road passes under a large 
arched gateway. In a niche over the arch, beneath one of St. 
Catherine, stands a painted statue of Vasco da (not de) Gama, 
and we were told that it was of necessity that each Governor of 
Goa should go under this archway — " Aliter Gubernator non 

14 



210 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



potest fieri." There was one of the smooth, well-bred, amiable 
ecclesiastics, who are ever to be found in situ, to show the Prince 
round and explain everything. The Cathedral inside is of vast 
and noble proportions, very plain and massive outside. It con- 
tains shrines and chapels, and much gilding, many middling 
paintings, fine old silver work. There were only seven worship- 
pers — all women, all natives — all before one shrine j at least, they 




THE MANCHEEL 

were real, for the visit was a surprise. What had become of the 
worshippers for whom these churches had been erected ? Or 
were they the work of Faith and Hope ? From the Cathedral 
the Prince went to the Bom Jesus. On the steps a musical per- 
formance welcomed the Prince, which he never heard or saw the 
like of before. One tall, lanky native gentleman, whose principal 
raiment was a big drum slung from his neck, belabored that 
instrument with one hand, and with the other held to his mouth 
a fearful tube of brass, from which he compelled the most dread- 



THE BOM JESUS. 211 

ful sounds. A boy beside him, without the. benefit of drum, 
clanged two cymbals, and a couple of youths joined in, one on a 
kettle-drum, the other on a drum simple. Above this din rose 
the ding dong of the small, and the sonorous roll of the great, 
bells of the church, and the barking of noisy curs. There were 
no beggars, and that for the reason that there were no people to 
be begged of. The Bom Jesus is chiefly noted for the shrine of 
St. Francis Xavier, a man whom the churches of the world may 
unite in accepting as a true Apostle. It is certainly one of the 
most beautiful and one of the richest objects of the kind which 
can be seen anywhere. But it is placed in a very small, dark 
chapel, and can scarcely be conveniently examined. The treas- 
uries, full of gold and silver cups for the sacred elements, were 
opened, and their contents and many curiosities were exhibited ; 
then the Prince, having thanked the clergymen who had been his 
guides, got into a mancheel and was carried down to the landing- 
place. There was by this time one beggar — a fakir — and he got 
nothing. The Governor took the Prince a little run up the river 
in the steam-launch, but they did not go so far as was intended. 
The Portuguese gentlemen said, however, that they did this to 
please the Prince, and that to please themselves they would 
never dream of going abroad in a heat of 85^ in the shade. The 
party returned by water to Panjim — indeed, it would seem as if 
there were no good roads inland — and then left the boats for the 
despatch vessel, the heat being too great to render it agreeable 
to land. 

At 12 o'clock the May Frere left, with the Prince and Gover- 
nor, for the Serapis, where lunch was served at 1.30 p. m. The 
Prince took the Governor and suite over the ship, with which 
they were delighted. At 3 p. m. his Excellency took leave of his 
Royal Highness, who bade him good-by at the top of the main- 
deck ladder. The Raleigh hoisted the Portuguese standard at 
the main, manned yards, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns. 

Smooth as the sea was, the surf ran heavily on the spit at the 
entrance to the river ; one of the boats of the Raleigh^ in charge 
of Lieutenant Kingscote, was swamped in the course of the day. 



212 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

But the chance of an upset was rather appetizing. There was 
not much danger — no sharks, it was said — and at 4 p. M. a boat 
pulled off to fish on the beach. The Prince decided on going 
later, when he had finished his letters. I am not quite sure that 
his Royal Highness's determination caused unalloyed satisfaction, 
for the risk in the surf would be increased by darkness. The 
Prince turned out in fishing-clothes, which would have done very 
well "for the hill." The boat was towed out by a launch ; but 
before the Prince reached the shore a breaker struck the stern, 
and thoroughly drenched him and the Duke of Sutherland. It 
was just enough to laugh at — the sea-water was warm and the 
beach was near. The fires lighted on the beach showed where 
the first party were drawing the nets. The fishing was pleasant, 
if not profitable. The natives are to be credited with a strong 
love of sport, for, as fuel was not abundant, they came down with 
parts of their houses and contributed to the fires on the beach. 
The sailors, hauling at the seine, delighted at seeing the Prince 
and his friends working in the water, waded and swam cheerily 
in the surf ; but big fish were not in the way, and after three 
draws of the net there remained on the beach only thirty skate 
(maiden ray) and some dozens of a fish like a sardine, only 
somewhat larger, which were certainly inferior to the poor Medi- 
terranean article, and tasted, when cooked next morning, accord- 
ing to a high authority, " like flannel stuffed with pins." Still 
there was the sense of doing something, and there was plenty of 
laughter. At midnight the Prince and party returned, "wet to 
the skin," and woke the sleepers to tell them what had happened. 
Every one was very glad to see all safe on board again. As 
soon as the Prince returned, a boat was sent off to the May 
Frere^ which proceeded to Bombay with the mail bags to catch 
the outgoing steamer of November 29th. 

November 28. — The Serapis lay at anchor all night, guarded 
by the Raleigh. As the sun, heralded by a glorious golden haze, 
rose behind the line of the purple ghauts and flung its rays into 
the blue, yet rejoicing in its myriad stars, the crew warmed into 
life in the hard and very practical manner of men who go down 



COAST SCENERY. 2I3 

to the sea in ships, and whose business is upon the waters. 
Pumps were rigged and hose laid out to wash the decks, and 
douse the unhappy natives who are unwary enough to sleep " all 
over the place." Sufferers who have been awakened, as they 
slept on the deck of a Peninsular and Oriental steamer in the 
Red Sea, will quite understand the operation. At 5.30 a. m. the 
Scrapis weighed anchor, and ran along the shore for Beypore at 
a speed of 10% knots an hour, accompanied by her guardian and 
the Royal yacht. Sea smooth ; the irresistible thermometer at 
80^. Coast ten miles off — brown bluffs and rocky promontories 
fending off the waves, a rugged line of blue hills in the distance 
— and in the intermediate space rolling land, timbered or cleared. 
There are no pirates to vex commerce now; yet it is not so very 
long ago that the British Government, represented by the Hon- 
orable East India Company, made treaties with the Angria 
family — a race of pirate chiefs haunting this very coast. A 
Hindoo pirate seems to be an anomalous personage, but he is 
not much stranger than an Abyssinian admiral, and these were 
once, as we have seen, very considerable powers on the West 
Coast of India. Marmagoa and St. George's Islands were seen 
in due course. At 8.15 a. m. we passed Cape Ramas, "a high 
bluff headland, forming in two level points when seen from north 
or south." There were several, white objects on the shore, which 
were explained to us to be Portuguese churches, but which had 
the look of Nestorian places of worship, such as were common 
further south. About 9.30 a. m. the squadron was again off 
British territory ; Polem, the Portuguese frontier town which lies 
east of Loliem Point, being twelve miles south of Ramas. The 
heat increased, and was 87° between decks at dinner time. 
Lord Carington, who was a little hit by the sun because he will, 
in his unselfish way, persist in taking the last and the worst 
place wherever it can be found, is himself again ; but, per cofura, 
Lord C. Beresford is obliged, after his night's fishing, " to lie 
up." At noon we were in lat. 14° 29^ N., long. 74° 3' e., 60 
miles from Goa. Divine service on the quarter-deck at 11 
o'clock. The Rev. Canon Duckworth and Mr. York, the chap- 



214 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

lain of the Serapis, officiated. There is an excellent harmonium 
on board, on which one of the band plays. The reading-desk, 
covered with a handsome flag, is on the port side. The Prince's 
chair is placed beside the harmonium, opposite the desk ; there 
is a double row of chairs from the Prince's left, and from the 
reading-desk and pulpit to the deck saloon. Th^ suite sit here. 
Captain Glyn facing the Prince and next to the clergyman. At 
right angles to these, extending aft, are chairs and benches for 
the officers of the ship ; behind the Prince, on the starboard side, 
are the bandsmen of the choir, the Marines and sailors ; the 
domestics of the Prince and of his suite are on the starboard 
side of the deck, in a line with the Staff and suite. 

November 2^. — Passed Sacrifice Island at 8- a.m.; Cabo an 
hour earlier. Rocky ridges covered with sea eagles close at 
hand. Beypore was in sight in an hour more; and about 9.30 
A. M. the squadron anchored a couple of miles from the bar, just 
within view of the Beypore Railway Station. At 10.15 a. m. ah 
effete little steamer, called the Margaret Northcote, crawled up 
alongside from shore, and anchored a cable's length off ; and 
presently a boat came off with Mr. Robinson, Mr. Macgregor, 
Mr. Logan, and Dr. Houston, in full uniform — and very hot it 
was indeed — and put them on board the Serapis. The reports 
of the medical officers and of the authorities were conclusive- 
cholera existed along the routes which the Prince would have 
had to take. It is easy to say that there was cholera in the 
places visited by the Prince subsequently ; but how fearful a 
censure would have fallen on the officer responsible for the 
health and safety of his Royal Highness if he had recommended 
a visit which turned out disastrously ! The gentlemen did not 
give any advice, but they approved Dr. Fayrer's recommenda- 
tion, although they knew what chagrin it would cause. The 
shooting-camps had been formed with infinite labor and expense. 
Bangalore had arrayed everything that luxury could suggest or 
wealth procure for the occasion. The Mysore Government had 
spent many thousand pounds on preparations for the Prince's 
reception. Ootacamund was on the tip-toe of expectation, an(^ 



MORE CHOLERA. 215 

the good people of the Station had laid out money in the most 
lavish manner ; the Raja of Travancore had been living in the 
hope that he would have the honor, for which he had made 
magnificent outlay, of being the host of the Prince. For hun- 
dreds of miles the whole population was stirred with the same 
expectancy. All this was true, but it was true too that there was 
the cholera among them. Dr. Houston was of opinion that there 
was no reason to prevent any one visiting the shooting district. 
There was cholera certainly, but then there is always cholera 
more or less about these parts. At Alipee there had been twenty- 
one cases in a month ; at Cottiam fourteen cases in a month ; 
there were cases at Mysore and at Bangalore ; in fact, cholera 
was to be found all over the country. One place alone was 
free — Trivandrum. " Let the Prince go to Trivandrum, then. 
The Raja of Travancore is^there." Alas 1 " There is nothing to 
shoot at Trivandrum." And to make matters more aggravating, 
it was announced that the Annamally and " Michael's Valley " 
were swarming with bison and deer. Deer may be killed else- 
where, but the last chance of bison is lost when this part of 
Southern India is abandoned. 

The Prince bore the disappointment with much philosophy ; 
and as there was no need of hurrying to reach Ceylon, proposed 
to run up the river to-day, and accordingly set out in the launch, 
which towed a dingy, for a little excursion. 

The bar is dangerous in bad weather, and though it was 
quite calm, a "good lump" of a swell was on. There must be 
abundance of fish here. Shoals of a pretty grey mullet-looking 
sort leap out of the water continually ; one came into the boat, 
another would have done so but that an arm was in the way. A 
shoal of very large but exceedingly knowing porpoises led the 
launch astray in a bootless chase. They rose, spouting and 
puffing in the sunshine — their black sides shining as if they 
were clad in macintoshes^-dived deep in the blue wave, and full 
of their tricks went off below in quite a wrong direction for the 
sportsman, who pursued only to see them, at the next " show," 
twice as far. On the left bank of the river, close to the water's 



2l6 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

edge, stand the few houses which constitute the town of Beypore. 
A lofty flag-staff, dressed with many colors, a reception platform, 
and an avenue lined with green branches and wreaths, marked 
the Railway Terminus, where it was hoped the Prince would 
have been received. The river is not more than 250 or 200 
yards wide above the town; palm=trees clothe its sides as far 
as the eye can reach. Occasionally one makes out in the gloom 
beneath the branches the low roof of the native mansion thatched 
with leaves, but there is no appearance of towns or villages. 
The launch steamed against the stream and the ebbing tide, and 
attracted some — but not any great — attention from the fishermen 
and boatmen, and we began to look out for game, for Mr. Logan 
said crocodiles were plenty. At one place some of the party 
went ashore and found a family of boat-builders at their occupa- 
tion. Mr. Logan explaining that we wanted cocoa-nuts, off 
went two of their number, who scrambled up trees like monkeys 
and came down with a dozen. These they trimmed with their 
axes, cut off a piece at the top and held up the natural goblet 
full of vegetable milk to thirsty lips. 

Mr, Robinson was anxiouSj, however, that the Prince should 
not land. The "Moplahs" are not to be trusted. These people 
are descended frorn Arabs who, at their first coming, married 
the Indian women, but they now marry among their own people 
exclusively. Active merchants, keen traders, industrious agricul- 
turists, they are fanatical and furious in matters pertaining to 
their faith, and under the influence of a very bigoted priesthood. 
A Moplah"is ready to sacrifice his life at any moment in order 
to take that of a heretiCo Armed with bill-hooks, the Moplahs 
have more than once received volleys of musketry and bayonet 
charges from European troops without flinching, and they have 
so completely cowed the native troops that no one would think 
of sending Sepoys to put down a Moplah movement. They 
fight till they fall to a man. It is a pity we cannot make use of 
such admirable material for soldiers, but they will not serve us. 

With some interest we asked, when we saw natives on the 
bank, " Are they Moplahs ? " Once only was the answer " Yes," 



THE OTTER HUNT. 21 7 

and that was when Muggur Sing (" Crocodile Lion "), one of the 
Punjaubee horsemen in attendance on the Prince, routed a 
woman in a yellow garment, who, in apparent trepidation, hur- 
ried out of her house with a child on her hip into the jungle, and 
was followed by two or three lads. Just half a mile above 
the line of native vessels moored off the Railway Station, Mro 
Logan, looking into a small creek, said, " There are otters ! " 
And there sure enough, mingled with bitterns and paddy birds 
fishing in the shallows, were ten or twelve of them. They were 
alarmed by the puffing and screw-beat of the steam-launch, and 
began to edge towards the cocoa-nut-trees. The Prince, accom- 
panied by Mr. FitzGeorge and Peter Robertson, got into the 
dingy, and was rowed gently up the creek, but by the time he 
was within shot not an otter could be seen. The dingy went on 
up a narrow channel, between an island and the main, to the 
deserted works of the Porto Nuovo Iron Company, which made 
excellent Bessemer steel and iron, but was unable to procure 
fuel cheap enough to give a profit. The Prince, in spite of the 
sun, the declining rays of which struck on his back with full 
force, was still intent on sport, and kept on in advance. Gayly 
dressed native Christian ladies, floating down the stream to have 
a look at the Prince, little dreamt that the Sahib in the small 
boat who was " pottering about " the river was the Shahzadah. 

On an eminence crested with trees could be seen the ruins 
of one of Tippoo's forts. " Do the people remember Tippoo ? " 
" Oh dear, yes ! He gave them good reason to remember him 
and his doings, and they talk of him still." It is the immortality 
of those who vex their kind — "on parlera de sa gloire." Sud- 
denly a shot was heard, the dingy pulled vigorously towards a 
circle in the water. An otter had been hit. It rose and made 
for the bank, was struck by a second shot, and sank. " The 
divers shall get it to-morrow morning," said Mr. Logan (a very 
difficult matter, one would think, but he assured us that there 
were pearl divers at Beypore who could stay five minutes under 
water — on the which depends a bet), and so the chase continued. 
Then another shot was heard, and Peter Robertson, in mortal 



2l8 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

fear of snakes and alligators, was sent ashore to beat the jungle. 
" Crocodile . Lion " was sent to the other bank. Eventually an 
otter, wounded so severely that it could scarcely crawl up the 
bank, was driven out ; but the creature was so tenacious of life, 
and so crafty that it was not possible to find him in the thick 
brushwood and rocks. It was now 6 p. m., and it was getting 
dark ; Captain Gilham, our pilot, became anxious ; the Prince, 
disappointed at the loss of three otters, came into the launch, 
where the cocoa-nuts full of milk were very welcome. As the 
launch and dingy in tow passed Beypore, blue lights were burnt 
and music was heard — a " fantasia " was going on to console 
the people for losing the Prince's visit. The bar was passed at 
reduced speed, as there was a long and heavy swell on. As the 
launch ran by the ever-watchful Osborne, a blue light was burnt. 
It was answered by a rocket and two blue lights from the Serapis. 
In five minutes more his Royal Highness was on the companion- 
ladder of the great ship, the sides of which gave the idea of a 
street with triple row of "gaslights. The Prince's absence had 
created a little uneasiness on board, and the steam-launch had 
been got out. Mr. Logan and Captain Gilham went on board 
their steamer, and at 7 p. m. the Serapis and Osborne, escorted 
by the Raleigh, weighed and steered for Colombo. 

November 30. — At 7 A. M. wind light, sea smooth ; speed, 
10 to 10}^ knots; thermometer, 80°; land scarcely visible on 
port side. At 8 a. m. faint blue mountain outlines in the distance, 
which gradually became better defined. At 10 a. m. the coast 
was closely approached again — that is, within eight or nine miles 
— the unfailing band of cocoa-nut-palms running along the beach, 
and the mountain ranges of Cochin and Travancore in the dis- 
tance. Found that the bath-pipes were doing the duty of the 
bilge-water-pipes, which rendered bathing not quite so agreeable 
as it might otherwise have been. 

At noon the squadron was off Quilon. Our latitude was 8° 
51" N., long. 76° 29' E., distance run since yesterday 153 miles, — 
difference between reckonings showed a current of 20 miles 
against the ship. The Fort of Tangacheri, with flag-staff — a 



THE TAMBARETTES. 2ig 

British ensign hoisted on the staff — and the houses could be 
easily made out. Then came in sight the first of the remarkable 
churches, built on the very verge of the beach, at intervals of 
two or three miles apart, as far as Comorin, which attest the 
existence — alas ! many centuries ago — of considerable Christian 
communities and successful missionary labors. Their uniform 
elevation, snow-white frontages, and apparently complete pres- 
ervation, render them singularly conspicuous and interesting 
objects from the sea. The track of whales became obvious. 
They spouted! "To arms!" was the call on the main=deck; 
several rifle shots were fired,'but none of the whales seemed to 
mind. At 3 o'clock p. m. Trivandrum, and an Observatory be- 
longing to the Raja, were in sight. The Raja of Travancore is, 
in spite of his Observatory and his attainments and science a 
very strict Hindoo. He rules a fair domain. It is said to be 
one of the few States which have always been under Hindoo rule 
and governed by Hindoo laws, but these latter, which dated 
from 1490, were modified in 181 1. The succession is in the 
female line — that is, the Raja is succeeded by the son of his 
daughter, not by his son ; and the tales in connection with this 
singular custom are curious. The history of the Tambarettes, 
or Hereditary Queens of Travancore, may be one of the most 
interesting in the pages of romance ; but we know little or noth- 
ing of it. Who was the young Englishman, for instance, with 
whom the Queen fell in love, and whom, though he declined to 
marry her, she sent away, in 1685, loaded with presents ? How 
did he get to Trivandrum, and how did he leave ? and where 
did he go to ? and why did he refuse her hand ? AnjengOj higher 
up on the coast, was, says Mr. Eastwick, the birthplace of 
Sterne's Eliza, and of Orme, the historian of British India. No- 
body whom any one cares about seems to be born in India now, 
neither heroine nor historian. The coast line maintains almost a 
uniform character to Cape Comorin, — a belt of yellow sand, on 
which break the great snow-white rollers; native boats, looking 
like basking alligators, drawn up on the beach ; Nestorian 
churches flecking with white patches the cocoa°nut-tree fringe ; a 



220 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



flat Stretch of green to the great wall of mountains, broken at the 
summit into, peaks, conical or rounded, and jagged outlines and 
oaw-edges at elevations varying from 3000 feet to 6000 feet. 
Several waterfalls seamed the lofty ridges of the towering back- 
ground. At 5 p. M. Cape Comorin was well in sight — " the end 
of India." The Cape is flat and sharp ; the cocoa-nut-palm 
pursues it out to the verge of the ocean. Behind rise the Ghauts, 
their summits covered with mist. The villagers could be seen 
pointing out the flotilla, and gazing westwards in the track of 
the setting sun. 

At 7 P. M. it began to blow, and at 8.30 p. m. a swish of a sea 
came in through the windows on the port side, and flooded the 
cabins of General Probyn and Colonel Ellis. The night was 
squally ; nevertheless, there were festivities on board, for the 
promotion of Lord C. Beresford to be commander was duly cele- 
brated at a dinner presided over by his Royal Highness, to which 
Captain Glyn and all the officers of the Serapis were invited, and 
after which the Ethiopian serenaders performed on deck. 




"it's nae the tigers that fear me, it's just the sairpents and 

THE like o' they!" 




•fijc 



LANDING AT COLOMBO. 



CHAPTER VIIo 



COLOMBO, KANDY, CEYLON, TO TUflCORIN. 

Colombo in sight — Taprobane — Birthday o£ the Princess — The Landing at 
Ceylon — Departure for Kandy — Railroad Scenery — Kandy — Blood-suck- 
ers — The Pera-hara — The Botanical Gardens of Ceylon — "Lightly 
tread ! "—The Sacred Tooth— The double Imposture— Buddhist Priests 
— Along the Road — A curious "Bag" — Leech-gaiters — The Stockade — 
Don Tuskerando — " Dead, sure enough!" — Agri-Horticultural Exhibi- 
tion — The Colombo Ball — Tamil Coffee Pickers — The Evil One in Cey- 
lon. 

December i. — Colombo lights were in sight before daybreak. 
The Scrap is seemed inclined to justify certain traditions relative 
to her extraordinary powers of rolling last night ; but if any one 
on ?Doard felt inclined to consider himself unfortunate, he had 
only to look, if he could, out of his port in the early morning at 
the Osborne^ and see what remarkable ups and downs she was 



222 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR.. 

undergoing. Nevertheless, our stately vessel rolled at times 
quite enough to divert the thoughts of most of us from compari- 
son v/ith anything outside the cabins in our ship. The "bear- 
ings " at last became heated in their controversy with the waves, 
and the speed was necessarily reduced, so that the Serapis was 
late, and was not able to come to anchor in Colombo Roads 
within three hours o the time appointed by telegraph, which is 
quite enough to demonstrate the force of the breeze. As the 
morning dawned — a gradual spread of lighter grey over the dull 
pall, charged with rain and thunder, which rested on the land — 
the look-out was not cheerful. There was no patch of blue in 
the sky. Taprobane was sulky, and refused to put on smiles for 
her visitor. There was nothing bright or lively to meet the eye, 
except the white surf which broke on the low coast-line, and 
washed the base of the interminable array of cocoa-nut-trees 
which guarded it. The mountain ranges were hidden in vapors 
and rain-banks, against which the sea-gulls seemed of snowy 
whiteness. The Cingalese outriggers, many miles from land, 
provided with long wooden arms, projecting at right angles 
to the side to sustain the log of wood which balances the craft 
against the pressure of the sail in the heaviest seas, and prevents 
the long, narrow hull capsizing, with crews out on the log, buried 
now and then to the waists in the curling waves, threaded their 
way through the muddy-looking waters, other catamarans, canoes, 
ballams, and doneys were engaged in fishing nearer shore, and 
the number of these to the north was so great as to suggest the 
idea of large flocks of ducks. These boats, no matter what their 
size, are made with pegs of wood instead of iron, and the planks 
are sewn together, carvel fashion, by fine cocoa-nut-fibre rope or 
cord. The gunwales are sometimes surmounted by a course of 
wicker-work or compost, to keep out the lap of the water. The 
Greeks in Homer's day used bulwarks of osiers to*exclude the 
waves. Similar contrivances may be seen in the Nile boats, and 
even on board the less advanced condition of Thames billyboys. 
Very likely the Cingalese boats remain as they were in the ear- 
liest days, and that the story of the Loadstone Mountain, which 



TAPROBANE. 223 

drew the iron bolts out of ships, and caused them to fall to 
pieces, had its origin in the" error of some wandering navigator in 
these seas. As the Serapis swept by, the crews — wiry, lithe-figured 
men, all but naked, their black skins shining in the spray — stared 
for a while, open-mouthed, and then resumed their labors at oar, 
or rope, or net. 

The approach to the coast of the great island, the fame of 
which has exercised such an influence over men's minds for 
many centuries, — Taprobane, — the mother-land of fables, — the" 
country which to the Greeks, the Romans, the Egyptians and 
the Arabs, offered the same mysterious attractions that the East 
long did to the people of Western Europe, — was regarded with 
much interest. Every eye was fixed on the fast developing out- 
lines of the landscape, which grew more distinct as the morning 
advanced, and the wealth of greenness which renders Ceylon 
" an Emerald Isle" indeed, displayed itself from the beach up 
to the swelling hills, the summits of which were lost in curling 
clouds. The Prince went up on the bridge. The "spicy breezes," 
of which poets and prose writers speak, did not come out 
to sea to warn us of the nearness of the land, where so many 
flowers are said to impregnate the air with their odors — 

" Spargon dall' odorifero terreno 
Tanta suavita, che in mar sentire 
La fa ogni vento che da terra spire." 

In fact, the odor which the traveller encounters near the pearl 
fisheries is anything but that of spices, aromatic plants, and 
sweet flowers ; and if he goes " in the height of the season," 
and has the wind off the heaps of oyster-shells, he will feel sorry 
he has a nose to smell withal. 

First as ever to welcome the Prince to new lands, the waving 
white ensigns and the tall masts of the men-of-war were made 
out, all dressed in colors. Then by degrees the modest eleva- 
tions of Christian steeples, the Semaphore, the Dutch fortifica- 
tions, attributed to Cohorn himself, the white-walled, red-tiled 
bungalows along the beach, and the houses set in the never-fail- 



224 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

ing frame of green cocoa-nut-palms. There was amid this green 
a fluttering of many colors, as if a dejected rainbow had been 
caught and was striving to get free, which was, the glass told us, 
the play of innumerable flags and streamers. The Pilot came on 
board. The fleets, with the flags of two Admirals (Macdonald 
and Lambert) flying, slanted, but the Serapis was rather too far 
out. The rule is that the Royal Standard shall be saluted " as 
soon as it is seen ; " but if the salute be intended to gratify as 
well as to honor, there ought to be somediscretion in the matter. 
In the present instance all that could be seen was a cloud of 
smoke, which hid Colombo for a while, and then we heard a dis- 
tant rumble. In three-quarters of an hour more the Serapis had 
found her way to her anchorage. On such occasions the admi- 
rals and senior officers are the first *to come on board to pay 
their respects. It was somewhat too rough in the open road- 
stead for spectators in fine clothes to come out in the shore- 
boats. The Governor's aides-de-camp put out from a little bay 
sheltered by a reef (probably the ^' Aloq aypuv'''^ on which the 
surf broke with fury, sending showers of spray high in the air, 
and causing some uneasiness as to our comfort in going on shore ; 
but the pilot told us that the jetty and platform where the Prince 
would land were protected from the swell The officers came to 
take orders, and await the Royal pleasure as to the disembarka- 
tioUo Whilst they were explaining the programme of addresses, 
receptions, and the like, there was plenty to interest those who 
had never been in Ceylon before. The native boats, with stores 
of novel merchandise and strange fruit, and — what were of more 
novelty and stran^'eness — ■ Cingalese bumboatmen, fruiterers, 
jewellers, officials, telegraph clerks, and post-office employes, in 
the native costume, which is to European eyes so extraordinary, 
• — their lower man swathed in " women's petticoats," their hair 
worn in massive rolls at the back of the head, secured by large 
tortoise-shell combs, " ij.o.XXo~l<; yovaueun^ elq d-Kav dvaSsde/xi^^oq,^' as 
Ptolemy wrote, — exposing them to a certain amount of what is 
called "'chaff,'' which they bore with dignified composure, either 
because they were ignorant or accustomed. At one o'clock the 



BIRTHDAY OF THE PRINCESS. 225 

Serapts made signal to the fleet ; soon afterwards, a Royal salute 
from ships and forts and a feu de joie on shore celebrated the 
anniversary of the Princess of Wales' birthday."* The Governor 
was waiting to be summoned on board. After a time he was 
signalled for, and, attended by the higher officers of the Govern- 
ment, came off in his galley, towed by a steam-barge. They 
were not sorry to reach the deck of the Serapis : it seemed as if 
they could not get on board without a drenching, and they 
hopped out on the ladder with great alacrity. Mr. Gregory has 
long had the honor of the Prince's acquaintance, and was cor- 
dially receivedo Major-General Street, C. B., the officer com- 
manding the forces, Mr. Birch, the Colonial Secretary, and the 
Staff, were presented, and then the Governor and the authorities 
returned to shore, where they were anxiously expected by a great 
crowd of ladies and gentlemen from all parts of the island, some 
of whom, we were told, had been in their places since 6 o'clock 
that morning. It was nearly 4 p. m. before the Prince left the 
Serapis. He was in the uniform, adapted to Indian latitudes, of 
Field-Marshal — white trousers, and plumed helmet. His steam- 
launch was preceded by one with a portion of his suite, whose 
appearance created a great commotion at the landing-place. 
The Undaunted^ Narcissus^ Immortalife, and Newcastle fired a 
salute just as the launch's bows, rising on the crest of a sea, 
appeared round the Point. Tremendous cheering, mingled with 
wild cries, made the recipients of the undeserved honor feel all 
the pangs of men engaged in unwitting imposture speedily to be 
detected. It was a. very pretty sight which met their eyes shore- 
wards — a broad water avenue formed by lines of native boats 
draped with bright-colored streamers and banners, garlanded 
with flowers and wreaths of cocoa-nut-leaves, and crowded with 
spectators and bands of native musicians. The Landing-Place 
at the end of this marine avenue was enclosed by a gay pavilion, 
which was reached by a flight of steps, covered with scarlet cloth, 

* The members of the suite sent a telegram to Sandringham congratu- 
lating her Royal Highness on the happy recurrence of the day, to which they 
received a gracious reply at Colombo the same evening. 
10* 15 



226 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

leading under a very striking archway, which was decorated very 
tastefully with flags and wreaths ; but what satisfied the eye, and 
at the same time caused something like regret at such wasteful- 
ness, was the display, as mere ornament, of masses of fruit — 
jack, limes, oranges, shaddocks, plantains, pine-apples, figs, cus- 
tard-apples, mangoes, &c.,- &c. Everywhere flags, fruit, cocoa- 
nuts, flowers and palm-leaves, triumphal arches. Then, in long 
perspective, more flags and arches, tiers of spectators on seats 
and terraces, windows and roofs crowded with figures and faces. 
On the Landing-Platform stood all the State of Ceylon — the 
members of the Legislative Council and of the Municipal Cor- 
poration ranged at each side of the dais ; a kind of throne, placed 
on an estrade, was ready for the Prince ; a table near at hand 
sustained two caskets. There was a guard of honor of the 57 th 
Regiment (the old " Die Hards "), with band and colors. Con- 
spicuous among the crowd of ladies, some in what may be styled 
British, and some in Anglo-Cingalese dresses, and of oflicers, 
civil, naval, and military, were two remarkable objects — one was 
a group of officials, in full Cingalese costume — combs, hair-rolls, 
and petticoats complete ; with very small, curved, dagger-like 
swords, broad baldricks, medallions, and large gold plaques, as 
large as cheese-plates, on their breasts : the other was a white- 
haired George-Washington-looking sort of gentleman, in a black 
velvet Court suit, full lace ruffles, and black silk stockings — which 
attracted immediate attention. "Who are those natives?" 
" They are the Mudaliyars — Native swells. That nice-looking 
old fellow is a Government House man, and he has got all those 
medals for good service. " Who is that gentleman ? " The an- 
swer — in a tone of surprise, "What! Don't you know Mr. Lay- 
ard ? " — announced that the gentleman was of high repute in Co- 
lombo. When the Prince appeared, a few moments after the land- 
ing of the first boat-load, there arose a shout which seemed to 
imply that the former greeting was not a mistake at all, but a 
mere exercise to clear the popular throat. The women, I be- 
lieve, joined in it ; but then no one can be quite sure about them 
here. It was a very hearty outburst. It was repeated often- 



THE LANDING 22/ 

times, and for some moments waves of exulting sound filled the 
air in successive volumes, to acknowledge each bow of the Prince. 
Then came the presentation of addresses and the answers. 

This ceremony ended, the Prince and Governor led the way 
up the avenue, lined by the 57th and the Cingalese police, to 
the large Government building (a custom-house, I believe), at 
tlie end of the rows of reserved seats. The spectators on each 
side were quite delighted ; they forgot all their long waiting. 
The Prince was, as a lady said afterwards, " so close to each 
and all, they could nearly touch him, and he smiled so pleas- 
antly as he walked along, we saw nobody else ! " Outside the 
seats " the people," wild with joy ; a wide-eyed, large-mouthed 
people, not much weighted with clothing, but in high animal 
spirits. They ran, shoved, leaped up to get a view even of the 
waving plume and white helmet. Passing through the halls, 
which were mostly filled with Europeans, the Prince emerged 
into open air to meet, if possible, a greater ovation. A triumphal 
drive through the town and around by the Sea-Wall, to enable 
the Prince to see and be seen, gave renewed occasion to admire 
the enthusiasm of the population, and wonder at the profligate, 
or, at all events, exuberant, expenditure of vegetable wealth in 
sacrificial piles of fruit, arches, wreaths, festoons, garlands, and 
at the quaintness of fancy in decoration, inscription, device, and 
grotesque representation of the elephant — the creature which 
typifies the island. It was in some measure like a promenade 
in the covered ways of a great horticultural exhibition in full 
fete. Thus the Prince, with the Governor by his side, drove 
for many miles all round by Colpetty — surrounded by cocoa-nut- 
trees, and again cocoa-nut-trees — the suburban villas surrounded 
by cinnamon-groves, and almost buried in the richness of real 
tropical vegetation — and so by Galle-face (the Dutch Galle- 
baak), round to the place whence he set out. But everything 
must come to an end, and as evening set in the carriages return- 
ed to the Landing, and the boats took the Prince and his fol- 
lowing off to the Serapis, which Captain Glyn would gladly 
have seen in smoother water ; nor were there any who would 



228 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

have differed with him. There was a State Banquet, at which 
the Prince entertained the Governor, the senior naval and 
military officers and authorities, and as many of the officials as 
the ship could accommodate. Colombo was illuminated beauti- 
fully, and the fleet lighted up. The planters kept revel on shore. 
Never perhaps were there more joyous times in the island than 
when his Excellency Governor Gregory received the Prince of 
Wales. There may have been greater displays of wealth and 
splendor in the old days before them, but then there was al- 
ways uncertainty of possession and of life ; there were wars and 
rumors of war, the coming of the spoiler, and the cry of the 
distressed. 

December 2. — "There's a good deal of sea on, sir; and 
it's likely they will get a ducking going on shore this morning ! " 
This was the first news which arrived in my cabin with the 
seven o'clock cup of coffee this morning. There was a natural 
politeness about my marine which prevented his saying ^^ you 
will get a ducking ; " but I knew quite well what he meant. The 
sound of the lapping waves outside justified the prediction. 
Already the note of preparation had been sounded between 
decks, and the servants were busy in getting ready for the jour- 
ney for Kandy. The baggage was despatched at 10 a. m., and 
the Prince went on shore at 10.20 a. m. under the usual salute. 
There is a screen in the steam-launch to keep off the spray from 
those in the stern-sheets, but all the party did not reach the 
shore in dry clothes, and the state of the sea during our stay 
rendered boat work anything but agreeable. Terra firma at 
last — Governor Gregory, Mr. Birch, Sir R. Morgan, Mr, Layard, 
full uniform, guards of honor, salutes, crowds of men in petti- 
coats, with combs in front of their chignons^ " cheering like Brit- 
ons" — the same multitudes as yesterday — arches, inscriptions, 
festoons, and cocoa-nut-tree rejoicings — not much the worse for 
the day's wear. 

From the Landing-Place to the Railway Station one clamor- 
ous crowd, which thinned away from the rear, and rolled in to- 
wards the front, around the cortege. The Cingalese type is not 



DEPARTURE FOR KANDY. 229 

Strikingly handsome ; the yellow tinge in the color of the skin is 
less pleasing — at least to my eyes — than the red or dark-brown 
hue of the native of Upper India ; and the hair, if abundant, is 
very coarse. The teeth do not rival those of the African, and 
the eyes are not particularly bright. The men are well made, 
but small. As to the women, except some wretched old hags of 
the lower order, we did not see a dozen ; but as the carriages 
passed through the suburbs to the Railway Station, we could 
make out eyes peering through the chinks in the doors and in 
the stockades of the houses. Amongst the carriages of the 
special train was one of native manufacture, — very creditable to 
Cingalese builders, — light, commodious, well-fitted, and prettily 
decorated. Well, after some little delay, which caused the usual 
disquietude to railway directors, managers, and engineers, the 
Royal train, followed by loud cheers from the gentlemen on the 
platform, and by the multitude outside, moved off on a run to 
Kandy, which was from end to end a prolonged scene of excite- 
ment and welcoming, in which the eye turned from crowds of 
people and arches and garlands to some of the softest, and yet 
grandest scenery in the world. The day was fine, with just 
enough of drifting cloud to cast ever-varying fleeting shadows 
over the grand sweep of hill-side, and there was that sharpness 
of outline and clearness of details of the distant mountain ranges 
which indicate the approach of rain. The railway follows the 
course of the Great Road, which justifies the skill and intelli- 
gence of the makers half a century ago. Outside Colombo the 
Railway crosses the river, which seems scarcely below the level 
of the surrounding country, now intensely green with growing 
rice. I am not about to describe a journey which is made by 
thousands of persons every year, who think as little of its beau- 
ties as if they were going by the Underground Railway from 
Charing Cross to the Mansion House ; but, under favorable 
circumstances, I should think it well worth while to go from 
London to Colombo to enjoy such scenery as we beheld to-day. 
Underneath thick groves of cocoa-nut-trees, arecas, and jaggery 
(Caryoia urens)^ and an extraordinary profusion of trees— some 



230 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

like the Coral or the Murutu {Erythrina Indica), bearing rich 
pink or crimson flowers ; others presenting glowing masses of 
scarlet buds and shoots ; others, like the ironwood-tree, with 
white flowers and blossoms of purple or lilac — one caught sight 
of the hamlets in which dwell the cultivators of the sea-like ex- 
panse of rice. In the offshoots of the river, and in the pools 
alongside the rail, groups of natives were tubbing — an operation 
which is popularly supposed to be confined to England, whereas 
there are few nations in the world who use water so little for 
purpose of ablution as the people of the three islands, always ex- 
cepting the classes with which within the last half century, the 
tub is a morning institution. 

Along the road are two-wheeled wagons, pretty little humped- 
back cattle, pack bullocks, Moorish brinjarees, and pedes- 
trians armed with the inevitable leaf of the talipot, which serves 
as an umbrella against the sun or rain, as the case may be. 
Occasionally glimpses of Buddhist Temples, perched upon hill- 
tops, or half-hidden among the ironwood trees, laden with white 
flowers, which put one in mind of Chinese pagodas. Now and 
then a group of Buddhist priests, in yellow robes, stand making 
surly obeisance by the roadside. It would be flattery to our- 
selves to say that their looks indicated perfect good-will towards 
the travellers. The tonsure does not by any means suit these gen- 
tlemen, whose ears are of enormous size, and whose foreheads, 
villanous low, tumble backwards into bulging, bullet-shaped 
skulls. As far as Veyangoda the scenery is pleasant, but rather 
monotonous. At the distance of a few miles from that station, 
which is twenty-five miles from Colombo, the ascent becomes 
rapid, until we reach Ambapussa. Here the spurs of the 
higher hills begin to strike down into the plains, covered with 
forest so dense that a ray of sunshine piercing it seems, in the 
darkness, like a polished steel bar. In the hollows between 
these spurs are green patches of rice set round by borders of 
underwood and tropical yegetation. The Prince and the Duke 
of Sutherland enjoyed the scenery from the engine j and at 
" Sensation Rock " the whole party enjoyed that supreme delight 



RAILROAD SCENERY. 23 1 

— a safe danger — contact— all but actual — with destruction, 
which is exceedingly charming to all who have nerves fit for the 
peculiar pleasure. It is an exceedingly bold — almost overhang- 
ing — mass of gneiss or granite, with that unsteady appearance 
which gives one the expectation that it will be down on his head 
as he looks at it ; a profound valley runs below. At Pulgaha- 
walla, and indeed at all the Stations, the names of which need 
not be enumerated, were crowds, inscriptions, arches, to welcome 
the Prince. The houses were ornamented with green cocoa-nut- 
fronds, the split leaves and stems nailed on bamboo-frames, 
formed in the most graceful devices. At Kadugannawa we 
reached the summit of the Railway. The line passes by the 
rock which was bored through for the main trunk road made by 
Sir Edward Barnes. When that was accomplished the hopes of 
the Kandyans perished, for they saw in that work the fulfilment 
of the prophecy that their kingdom should depart when a bul- 
lock could be driven through the hill, and a horseman ride 
through the rock. The hill was tunnelled, and soon afterwards 
the Kandy mail was driven through the archway. Since the 
final capture of Kandy in 1815 there have been several upris- 
ings and rebellions : one, the most formidable, in 1817 ; the last 
in 1848, which Lord Torrington stamped out with a vigor which 
nearly brought on him the fate incurred by Governor Eyre in 
later years. We do not like rebellion at home, but we are very 
apt to punish those who nip it in the bud abroad ; they ought 
perhaps to wait and see if it is about to become serious. In 
that case they are not unlikely to incur the odium and punish- 
ment of imbecility. The train halted at the summit, and the 
Prince inspected the column on which are enumerated the ser- 
vices of Captain Dawson of the Royal Engineers, who " planned 
and executed the road and other works of public utility, during 
the government of Sir Edward Barnes, K. C. B." It is now 
forty-five years since Captain Dawson died at Colombo, and it 
may well be said of him that the good he did Uves after him. 
From Kadugannawa the train sped on to Peradeniya. The 
Station, which is but a few miles outside Kandy, was decorated 



232 

with originality. In addition to the ordinary floral embellish- 
ments, birds, monkeys, minars, white crows chattered, jumped, or 
flew as far as the length of their tethers would let them along the 
platform ; immense crowds of Kandyans — many of them wore 
flowers in their hair, and had nosegays in their hands — ^welcomed 
the Prince. It was after four o'clock before the train reached 
the neighborhood of the city. All we had heard of the beauty 
of the situation of Kandy, and of the character of the scenery 
was fully sustained. 

In a deep ravine at one side of the plateau, or, more prop- 
erly speaking, of the broad valley surrounded by hills, over- 
looking a still deeper depression, on which the town is situated, 
the Mahawelli Ganga River thunders in its rocky bed. The 
small lake by the side of which part of the city is built lends a 
charming repose and freshness to the scene, which is mirrored 
in its waters. Wherever the eye is turned rise mountain tops, 
some bare masses of rock, others clothed with vegetation. 
There is no idea of a " town " or of a " city " to be realized in 
what one sees ; it is all suburb — verandaed pavilions and 
bungalows stretching in lines bearing the names of streets ; 
here and there the native houses packed more closely may be 
termed lanes ; but the whole place is as " diffused " as Balham, 
or Clapham, or any other rural quarter of the great Metropolis. 
Kandy was once a stronghold of kings, but it was not till the 
end of the sixteenth century that it became the capital. When 
that dignity was conferred on the city, it was forbidden to the 
common people to have windows, or white walls, or tiles to their 
houses, as these were luxuries for royal use alone. Public 
buildings, properly so called, there are none, but in lieu of these 
was one of the most picturesque crowds ever seen. I doubt if 
ever anything so unmasculine, uncomely, and unbecoming was 
ever devised as the dress of the great Chiefs. There are 
various orders of Chiefs. The higher they are the more ridicu- 
lously elaborate is their attire. The dress of the upper ten 
thousand is an enormous stiffened white muslin petticoat, with 
gigot sleeves, nether garments puffed out as if they were 



KANDY. 233 

Strongly fortified by crinoline, the work of cunning seamstresses, 
made with exceeding art. On their heads elevated pin-cushions, 
like tinselled crowns, singularly unsuited to the climate or to 
dignity of appearance. The few women visible wore white 
muslin jackets and comboys, and displayed a considerable 
jvealth of bangles, necklaces, and rings. The becombed heads 
of the men, which are the rule at Colombo, did not appear to be 
quite universal. 

The number of Chiefs and of Buddhist priests at the Station 
showed what importance was attached to the Prince's visit by 
the people, and proved that the Governor had cultivated their 
good opinion with success. The popularity he enjoyed was 
among the causes which collect so many people together, for 
had he been less favored, some of the Chiefs, at all events, 
would have stayed away. There was, of course, an address 
from the Municipal Council of Kandy delivered at the Railway 
Station, and deputations from all the country for many miles 
around ; so much to observe that the memory and the eye were 
fairly over-weighted. Endless would be the task of describing 
miles of decorated roadside, inscription, triumphal arches, fes- 
toons and garlands, or the curious devices from the Station till 
we reached the Governor's house. It was with a sense of relief 
we found refuge in the " Pavilion," the bedrooms of which open 
out upon the charming garden. There was, alas ! one draw- 
back to a walk in the shady groves, where the air was heavy, 
with the odor of unaccustomed flowers, A sharp prick above the 
ankle directed my attention downwards, and I saw a small black 
body, not much thicker than a pin, which gave decided signs of 
life, contracting and expanding itself vigorously from one point, 
just above the shoe. I caught hold of the little black thread in 
my hand, and pulled it away ; where it had been, a spot of 
blood appeared ; in a second the leech fastened upon my finger. 
The place was swarming with the wretches ! I had inadvertent- 
ly walked on the greensward, populous with these blood-suckers. 
I instantly fled, and resolved to wear shoes no more in these 
latitudes. 



234 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

The Governor entertained the Prince and the notabilities of 
Ceylon at a State dinner. Lamps and lanterns were waving and 
swinging in the perfumed breezes. Rows of cocoa-nut-oil-lamps 
climbing up the hill-sides to join with the stars ; streamers float- 
ing from elevated masts ; clang of music, beating of native drums^ 
blowing of horns, sound of gongs and mighty cheering, which 
rolled away like thunder along the hill-sides. 

Immediately on the conclusion of the banquet, the company 
were summoned outside. The Pera-hara, now celebrated in 
honor of the Prince, was out of its ordinary place and time. 
Instead of being made through the city at a new moon, in June 
or July, the' procession was confined to the route from the 
Temple to the garden of the Pavilion. Knox describes the 
ceremony two hundred years ago, when it must have been of a 
grand and imposing character. In those days the Kings of 
Kandy were great indeed, and little dreamt of the time when 
white men, from countries of which they kept many inhabitants 
in base captivity, would march upon their capital, seize upon 
the treasures of their temples, plunder their tombs, and scatter 
their ashes to the winds. It is probable the Kandyans have 
traditions concerning these things, although we have forgotten 
them. In Knox's day the Chief Priest rode through the streets 
of the city upon an elephant, covered in white, with all the 
triumph that king and kingdom could afford. He was preceded 
by fifty elephants of the Temple dressed in rich stuffs and 
covered v/ith jingling bells, whicji followed drummers, trumpeters, 
dancing men, of the wildest and most fantastic figures, and fifers, 
dressed like giants, the imitation of giant stature being effected 
by elevated head-dresses. " After the gods and their attendants," 
says Knox, " thousands of ladies and gentlemen, of the best 
sort, arrayed in the bravest manner their ability can afford, go 
hand in hand, three in a row. The streets are made clean. 
Pennons and flags flutter from poles stuck along the streets, 
which are adorned with boughs and branches of cocoa-nuts, and 
rows of lighted lamps border the pathways both night and day." 
The women of whom Knox speaks do not make their appearance 



THE PERA-HARA. 235 

now. Elephants, with priests representing the deities, makers of 
heaven and earth, and inferior heavenly potentates come next. 
The Cingalese deny that the images of the gods in their temples, 
which represent the influence of the Hindoo conquerors on the re- 
ligion of Buddha, are more than symbols, and say they are not 
actually worshipped. Last of all came the soldiers with the com- 
manders, but in Knox's time the King had ceased to ride in the 
ceremony. Sir Emerson Tennent says the Buddhist priesthood 
suffered a great loss of prestige " since the loss of the Royal 
presence, in which it was their privilege to bask. Even their 
ritual pomp and ceremonials no longer command the same 
homage from the populace ; and the great annual procession of 
the Pera-hara, with its torch-lights, its solemn music, and capar- 
isoned elephants, is spiritless and unimpressive if contrasted 
with occasions in their memory when it was hallowed by the 
divine presence of a king." The writer never imagined that in 
the time so little distant from his own, the heir of the monarch, 
to whom has descended greater honors than were ever enjoyed 
by all the kings of Taprobane, should give once more to these 
fetes the prestige of a royal presence. What the Prince of 
Wales saw was different from the great ceremonial. There was 
only a procession of elephants, dancers, and priests belonging to 
the temples ; but it was exceedingly grotesque, novel, and inter- 
esting, and it would tax the best pen and pencil to give an 
adequate idea of such combinations of forms, sounds, and figures. 
The " devil dancers," in masks and painted faces, were sufficiently 
hideous. Their contortions, performed to the tune of clanging 
brass, cymbals, loud horns, and, for aught I know, sackbut, lute, 
and dulcimer, presented no feature of agility or grace which 
might not be easily rivalled by an ordinary dancing troop nearer 
home. The elephants, plodding along in single file, carried mag- 
nificent howdahs occupied by the priests, and were covered with 
cloth of gold and silver, and with plates of metal which shone in 
the light of the torches. The better bred of these animals, and 
most of them indeed were exceedingly polite, salaamed, and 
uttered a little flourish of trnmpets through their probosces, as 



236 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

they came opposite to the place where the Prince was standing ; 
some knelt clown and made obeisance before him ; but the pro- 
priety of the procession was somewhat disturbed by the cupidity 
of one which, finding the Prince had a small store of sugar- cane 
and bananas, resolved to make the best of his time, and could 
not be induced to go on without difficulty. This Pera-hara was 
but a rehearsal of the ceremony fixed for the following day. 

December 7^. — There came in the night-time a refreshing 
shower, so that all the glorious mass of vegetation in the garden 
and grounds outside the Governor's house was literally ablaze 
with brilliant flowers, and the air was heavy with the perfume of 
yellow champac and of the white roses of the ironwood-tree. As 
to the coloring and size of the rhododendrons, Indian magnolias, 
Gordonias, &c., they must be seen to be believed, and then, as 
Knox says, " not without rubbing of the eye." All the birds- 
were set a-singing, and the woods, if not most melancholy, were 
at least most musical in force of sound. Indeed, one of the party 
complained that " a violent woodpecker " close to his window 
kept him awake all the morning. It is a strange country, for 
there are in it fishes which walk, climb, and sing ; but it would 
be wrong, perhaps to say always that the birds sing : the noise 
they make is certainly too loud to be melodious. After break- 
fast there was a visit to the Royal Botanical Gardens, which 
should properly, I think, be called the Arboretum, situated at 
Peradeniya, a distance of three miles or so from the Pavilion. 
Here the Prince was received by Mr. Thwaites, the learned 
author of the " Enumeratio Plantarum," &c, Fellow of the Royal 
Society, who did the honors of the place wi1;h charming vivacity 
and scrupulous care, allowing no object of the many extraor- 
dinary and beautiful specimens of tropical vegetation to escape 
unnoticed. 

I have never seen in any part of the world such an ex- 
traordinary exuberance and variety of growth. In addition to 
every tree and plant properly belonging to Ceylon, there are 
numbers of exotics, which have been imported, and which grow 
freely in the open air. Mr. Mudd, the botanist attached to the 



THE BOTANICAL GARDENS. 237 

Prince's establishment, went about in a subdued ecstasy, knife 
and book in hand, attended by a native gardener speaking Eng- 
lish, who seemed an excellent botanist. We entered through a 
magnificent avenue of the india-rubber-tree {Ficus elastica), and 
drove along sweeping avenues by the borders of the river, through 
a park-like expanse, which was one marvellous exhibition of the 
glories of the vegetable kingdom. Orchids in every variety ; 
palms of stupendous size, thickness, and height j talipots, pal- 
myras, date-palms, gigantic clumps of reeds, the coco demar, the 
traveller's tree, almost shut out the light in places, or were scat- 
tered over the green meadow in detached blocks, or concentrated 
into central masses, over which whirled thick clouds of flying • 
foxes. Perhaps the most interesting and astonishing objects, 
where all was so new, were the jungle-rop e creepers, and elephant- 
creepers of the Bauhinia class, which seem to seize the trees in 
giant folds, as if intent on their destruction, an object in which, 
it is said, indeed, these tremendous vegetable reptiles too often 
succeed. In the gardens nearly all the products which are val- 
uable for commerce have been introduced — cloves, nutmegs, 
vanilla, tea, chocolate, arrowroot, tapioca, ginger, mangoes, lich- 
ens, and every fruit known to the East. It is, in fact, a very 
noble institution, and a great glory to the island, to those who 
planned it, and to its present amiable, excellent, and learned direc- 
tor. The flying foxes come here at certain times of the year in 
enormous multitudes, migrating from spot to spot as they devas- 
tate each district. Some we saw hanging, as you see them in 
the Zoological Gardens, with their heads covered snugly up in 
the membrane of the wing, and the body hanging by one hind 
leg from the branch, like strange fruit. Mr. Thwaites said that 
these foxes caused immense damage, and that the gardens need- 
ed perpetual cleaning. On the Prince expressing a desire to 
procure a specimen, a gun was sent for, which probably exposed 
the Prince to more danger than many things in his travels which 
were regarded with greater suspicion. Up went the gun, and 
down came a flying fox. The Pteropus Edwardsii^diS about four 
feet from one wing tip to the other, and was covered with thick 



238 

red hair, the skin on the face black and naked, and teeth ex- 
ceedingly sharp. It is said they are not bad eating, something 
like hare ; but it would be excessive hiinger indeed which could 
induce me to test the fact. When the Prince fired, the creatures 
showed they possessed the instinct of self-preservation by retir- 
ing to greater distances and higher altitudes, but several more 
were bagged, not without a considerable expenditure of powder 
and shot on the part of the extraordinary fowling-piece. 

At Mr. Thwaites' house, a pleasant Swiss-like chalet, the 
Prince was shown specimens of tea, of cardamums and other 
spices, cinchona, live scorpions, and the curious nests of the 
white ant, of which there were great numbers in the garden. 
We were warned that if we made excursions into the jungly 
ground near the river, there were venomous spiders, ferocious 
ants, ticks, centipedes, to be avoided. Nor were we made more 
inclined for a walk on being informed that the Tic polonga (Da- 
boia elegans)^ a deadly snake, the terror of the natives, was to be 
met with. The European servants walked about cautiously. As 
one of them said, " It's not tigers and lions that I am afraid of ! 
It's the serpents ! " Before leaving, the Prince planted a small 
shoot of a Peepul — the Bo-tree, or Ficus religiosa — to commemo- 
rate his visit. 

Any desire for independent excursions had been extinguished 
by the information that Tic polonga might be encountered in the 
long grass ; but that the leech most certainly would come to us, 
whether we went or not, we were very soon certain, as various 
outcries testified. " Will you take this off my neck, if you please } " 
" Hang it ! there's one on the calf of my leg ! " They came 
wriggling and jumping along the grass. They must smell one's 
blood. If you stood on the gravel-walk for a few moments you 
could see them making their way from all parts of the surround- 
ing country towards you as a common centre of interest. Most 
horrible of all their properties, they can stand erect on their tails 
and look out for what is coming. 

In the evening there was a banquet at the Pavilion, and then 
the ceremony of bestowing the insignia of the K. M. G. on the 



THE ORDER OF KNIGHTHOOD. 239 

Governorp and of the C Mo Go on the Colonial Secretary, and on 
Mro Douglas^ in the Audience Hall of the Kings of Kandy, used 
at present as a district Court House. It is a long low room, the 
richly chiselled wooden roof upheld by a double line of elabo- 
rately carved columns of teak with bracketed capitals : the ex- 
terior rooms and corridors are narrow and dark. On the walls 
and columns are carved flights of geese — or, to speak with ac- 
curacy — " the Sacred Goose " of Buddha passant is multiplied 
many times. In this Hall the Kings held Court at night in a 
dimly lighted recess, to which ministers and courtiers went crawl- 
ing on their stomachs. It was now thronged by Kandyan Chiefs, 
Mudaliyars, European colonists, officials, and the jewelled wives 
of the Kandyan nobility, in snow-white dresses, drawn up on the 
right-hand side below the dais, on which the Prince's chair of 
State of crimson velvet and the less splendid seat for Mr. Greg- 
ory were placed. The Chiefs were presented by the Governor. 
Round the neck of Dewe Nilime, one of the most eminent, the 
Prince placed a blue riband with the Indian gold medal. They 
ivere introduced in columns of five, according to their rank, and 
presently they came back in procession to offer the Prince a 
handsome silver casket. Whilst the presentations were going 
on, the thunder roared and the lightning flashed, and the rain 
fell with tropical violence outside. Mr. Gregory appeared at the 
head of a small procession — consisting of the members of his 
suite. Colonial Secretary, Auditor-General — and advanced to the 
dais, at the base of which he bowed to the Prince. All the com- 
pany stood up. His Royal Highness announced that he had her 
Majesty's commands to confer on her trusty councillor, the Right 
Hon. W. H. Gregory, the dignity of Knight Commander of the 
most illustrious Order of St. Michael and St. George, and added 
that he had great pleasure on personal grounds in doing so. Then 
the patents, &c., rather tedious documents, in which there were 
something like injunctions against larceny, were read. The 
Governor knelt ; the Prince gave the accolade with the words, 
" Rise, Sir William Gregory." The Knight rose and expressed 
his feelings in a neat speech, amid tremendous cheers, which 



240 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

woke up every echo in the old Hall, and challenged the mutter- 
ing thunder. Mr. Douglas and Mr. Birch were next invested 
with the C.M.G., amidst expressions of general satisfaction. 
The Prince left the dais, and the wives of the Kandyan Chiefs 
who were as dignified and stately as so many Mistresses of the 
Robes, were introduced to him. Out of the Audience Hall he 
passed through narrow passages and serried ranks of Buddhist 
priests, mounting the steps to the Temple, to see the Sacred 
Tooth of Gotama Buddha. 

The Holy object abides in a Wihara, or sacred chamber, in 
a tower adjoining the Malagawa Temple. The European style 
of the architecture of the tower causes it to stand out distinctly 
from the neighboring buildings, and is ascribed to Portuguese 
captives, employed in its construction by the Kandyan King, 
Wimala Ilkanna, 270 years ago. The "Dalada," as it is called, 
is a piece of bone or, as some say, ivory, with a suture up the 
side, nearly two inches long and one inch round, of irregular 
cylindrical shape, tapering towards the end, which is rounded. 
If the article was ever in Buddha's mouth, and if he had a com- 
plete set to match, he must have possessed a wonderful jaw, and 
a remarkable stomach, for it is easy to see that the tooth is not 
a human molar or incisor. It is, however, as least as real as was 
the Palladium, or as are many relics nearer home. It has been 
suggested that it was modelled after the canine teeth which are 
seen in some images of Vishnu and Kali, but it by no means 
resembles a true canine. The story of the tooth has been told 
many times. When Gotama Buddha's body was burned at 
Kusinara, 2419 years ago, his left canine tooth was carried to 
Duntapura, the capital of Kalinga, where it reposed for 500 
years, till the King sent it to Ceylon. There the Dalada, called 
Dahta Dhatu, lay till the early part of the twelfth century, when 
a Tamil Prince of Madura, who invaded the island, carried it 
off to India, where the Sacred Tooth remained till the King of 
Kandy, as the gratifying result of a personal crusade and expe- 
dition for the purpose, obtained possession of it. But the Dalada's 
peaceful days were over. Less happy than its former owner, now 



THE DOUBLE IMPOSTURE. 24I 

absorbed in eternal rest, the tooth was the object of constant 
inquisition, and it was carried about from one hiding-place to 
another during the constant wars which distracted the island. 
Sir Emerson Tennent has given a full account, translated from 
the Portuguese of Diego de Couto, of the capture of the Dalada 
by Don Constantine of Braganza at Jaffna in 1560. Diego calls 
it the tooth of an ape, which it certainly is not, and gives the 
details of its destruction by the archbishop at Goa, in presence of 
the Viceroy and his officers, and of the prelates, inquisitors, 
vicars-general, and pious Jesuits, in April, 1561. It was these 
good people who counselled the needy hidalgos, captains, and 
other temporal persons, to reject the 400,000 cruzadoes offered 
by the envoys of the King of Pegu for its possession. The 
archbishop having received the relic from the treasurer, " placed 
it in a mortar, and with his own hand reducing it to powder 
before them all, cast the pieces into a brazier, which stood ready 
for the purpose ; after which the ashes and the charcoal together 
were cast into the river in the sight of all those crowding to the 
verandas and windows which looked upon the water." Man}'-, 
we are told, protested against the measure, on the ground that 
there was nothing to prevent the Buddhists from making another 
tooth, and that the money would have repaired the pressing 
necessities of the State. They were quite right. The Buddhists 
were not to be beaten. The Dalada which they exhibit to-day 
is, they say, " the real and only one ; "—that which Don Constan- 
tine took at Jaffna was a sham made ad hoc. When the King 
of Pegu, three years after the tooth had been reduced to powder, 
sent to the King of Kandy to ask his daughter in marriage, the 
crafty chamberlain of the latter, who pretended to be a Christian, 
but who was a Buddhist at heart, told the ambassadors that he 
had hidden the real tooth, and took them to see a fac-simile, 
which he had constructed out of stag's horn, in his house. He 
was prevailed upon, for a consideration, to yield this tooth up to 
the King of Pegu, who was in great delight with his treasure for 
some time, till he was told that the lady he had married as the 
daughter of a king was as great a sham as the tooth which 



242 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

had been sent to him. But even then he preferred keeping 
both the impostures to admitting that he had been deceived, and 
he informed the King of Kandy, who maintained that he was the 
possessor of the only genuine relic, that he was quite content 
with what he had. The King of Kandy doubtless caused the 
present article to be made at the time. The Wihara, or small 
shrine, in which the Dalada is kept, is approached from the 
Temple by a narrow door and staircase ; the apartment itself, 
which is hung with curtains embroidered with curious devices, 
was redolent of sickening perfume, which combined with the heat 
of the lamps held by the priests to make the atmosphere almost 
stifling. The Carandua, a bell-shaped golden casket enclosing 
the tooth, stands on a silver table. The case glitters with emer- 
alds, diamonds, pearls of great price^ and bears a large stone on 
the cusp at its summit, which is, we are told, of enormous value. 
It is hung round with chains, of which the links are diamonds, 
emeralds, rubies, and pearls, apparently of very great worth — is 
elaborately chased and worked in an intricate pattern of which 
a photograph alone can give an idea. At one side of the table 
surrounded by as many as could crowd in after him, the Prince 
took his place. One priest produced a bundle of keys, which 
was taken, not without trouble and delay, out of some secret 
receptacle, and then proceeded to unshrine the relic. Even 
when the keys were brought, it would seem as if those who were 
the guardians of the shrine were not very familiar with its intric- 
acies. It was not at the first or the second trial that they found 
the right key ; but at last a sliding spring was touched, and the 
outer case opening, revealed inside another of gold, also jewelled. 
This in its turn was opened. Again came in view a casket like 
unto its fellow, and so on the operation was repeated, I think, 
for five times, until at last, 

" Fold after fold to the fainting air, 
The soul of its beauty and love lay bare — " 

Buddha's tooth, just as I have tried to describe it, reposing on a 
golden lotus leaf ! No hand might touch this holy of holies. 



BUDDHIST PRIESTS. 243 

There was an expression of awe on the faces of the priests, 
which could not have been feigned ; the eldest, a venerable man 
in spectacles, who quivered with emotion,' taking up the gold 
lotus leaf in one hand was supplied by another of the priests 
with a small piece of cambric, or of some white textile stuff. 
Placing this carefully between his fingers, and not allowing his 
hand to come in contact even with the golden lotus, he took up 
the tooth and held it for the Prince's gaze. There was, of 
course, not much to see in the tooth, and, without faith, nothing 
to admire ; and so the Prince, having duly looked at it, departed, 
and was followed with pleasure by all whose duty it was not to 
remain inside. But it was very curious to think that so many 
millions of people, some of them no doubt wise and good, spread 
all over the East, constituting the population of great empires, 
not destitute of culture, should hold such an object in veneration. 
The shrines in which it is encased have been made by various 
Kings of Kandy, and some go so far as to say that the most 
recent, the exterior, dates from the year 1464, and that the inside 
case was made two hundred years before that date. 

Had it not rained as it did, in downright sheets of water, 
there would, no doubt, have been a very pretty sight, and char- 
acteristic, from the Octagon, where the Prince now stationed him- 
self in full sight of the people. They faced the rain, for all their 
scanty raiment, with patience for hours ; and when the few 
fireworks which could burst out into life threw a glare on the 
multitude, the partially undraped figures glistened in the wet 
like statues of polished bronze. The Pera-hara, devil-dancers 
and all, passed beneath the Octagon ; but the downpour washed 
all the animation out of them, put out the lights, soddened the 
drums, choked the musical instruments, and spoilt everything but 
the good temper and patience of the crowd. Before retreating to 
the Pavilion, a deputation of Buddhist priests, bearing a very 
valuable set of the holy books for the Prince's acceptance was 
introduced. They also exhibited, as they asserted, the "most 
ancient Buddhist MSS. in the world," and one of the younger 
priests proceeded to chant in minors, ending in a prolonged high 



244 "^^^ PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

note, from one of the books, in a manner not unmusical, remind- 
ing us somewhat of the intonation of the Russian ritual. The 
reverential air and deep attention of the Buddhists who sat round 
the reader were very striking ; one especially, who, with moistened 
eyes, raised his hand gently, from time to time, to emphasize a 
passage, looked at the Prince as if he expected a miraculous 
conversion. The seance ended, the Royal party made the best 
of their way to the Pavilion. Thousands of people were unable 
to find shelter, and slept wherever they could. Every house was 
full, and the verandas and doorsteps were crowded. The rail- 
way carriages and stations were filled by people. 

December 4. — At 7.30 a. m. the Prince, accompanied by 
Sir W. Gregory, Mr. Birch, and some of his suite, escorted by 
the Governor's Body Guard, drove to the Railway Station, where 
Major-General Street, C. B._, and his Staff, and a guard of honor, 
band and colors of H. M.'s 57th, under Captain Collins, were on 
duty. Colonel Williams, Colonel Ellis, Canon Duckworth, and 
Mr. Knollys remained at the Pavilion. The special train, pre- 
ceded by a pilot-engine, ran smoothly through one of the most 
lovely countries in the world, all fresh and shining from the 
morning's torrents, which had, however, flooded the fields in 
many places, and caused land-slips on the hill-sides, over the 
new line to Gampola. There the Duke of Sutherland, Lord A. 
Paget, Captain Glyn, and Commander Durrant bade farewell to 
the Prince for the time, and went to the Governor's Lodge at 
Newera Ellia (the Royal City of Light), " the Elysium of Ceylon," 
over the Rambodda Pass, where there is a sanitary station, at an 
elevation of 6000 ft. above the sea-level. They enjoyed some 
sport ; but the rain which fell on us was especially just to them. 
At Gampola, as at every station, there were crowds of planters 
and Cingalese, and the usual decorations. At Nawala-pittya, 
where our railway journey came to an end, a fine pandal was 
erected, although the Prince was only to stay there till the car- 
riages were ready. Horses are rare in Ceylon, and transport is 
carried on in bullock hackeries ; but the Governor had collected 
a sufficient number of vehicles and horses to carry the party on 



ALONG THE ROAD. 245 

to Ruanwella, a secluded spot, forty-one miles from Colombo. It 
was reported that two herds of elephants were in the forest, and 
the local sportsmen were employed in watching them. The 
planters and ladies of the district gave the Royal traveller a most 
hearty welcome ; nor were the Cingalese, among whom were 
Chiefs, Mudaliyars, priests, and peasants, less enthusiastic. Soon 
after we left the Station of Nawala-pittya, the clouds, which had 
never ceased to hang on the mountain-tops, gradually crept 
down, and the rain descended once more, at first gently, and 
then in torrents. It was very disappointing ; for such glimpses 
as we had of the scenery were enchanting — banyans, ironwood- 
trees (Mesua f erred) euphorbias, satinwood-trees, oaks, acacias, 
rhododendrons, magnolias, asoca, champac, wonderful creepers — 
some thick as a mast, and others like whipcord — convolvuli, 
orchids, &c., sheeting hillside and valley with an infinity of 
flowers and color, challenged our admiration, and caused a sen- 
timental sorrow at the aspect of the horrible utilitarian coffee- 
clearings, where the prostrate trunks of trees lay black and 
hideous on the dull red soil. Constant exclamations of delight — 
*' Look there ! How lovely ! Do just turn your head to see the 
waterfall ! " There was an excellent road which appeared little 
frequented, and no Europeans were met from the time we left 
the railway. Heavier and heavier fell the rain, and good as that 
road was, it was so hard on the horses, that before we reached 
the Rest House at Kalugala, where the Prince was to breakfast, 
it was necessary to get out of the carriages and walk. We over- 
took some of the servants who had been sent on the day before, 
and found the Prince's gun-cases, &c., lying on the path. The 
coolies had refused to go further, and when coercion was resorted 
to, had simply and masterfully retired into the woods, and lefl 
the Europeans to their devices. The Governor was almost in 
despair ; but, aided by Mr. Layard and his staff, made disposi- 
tions which enabled the servants to proceed. 

There was a long halt at Kitulgala, where the rest-house 
occupied by the Prince commanded exquisite views of the river 
and secluded valley. The journey was resumed after breakfast, 



246 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

the rain coming down more violently than ever. Ruanwella, 46 
miles from Kandy, was reached at 4.30 p. m., long before the 
baggage arrived. Every one was wet, more or less. The coolies 
came dropping in slowly towards nightfall with various articles, 
which were anxiously expected, and as the stragglers came in 
sight, the excitement of owners waiting foi* guns, dressing-bags, 
and changes of raiment was intense. Of course, things which 
were not wanted came in first. The Prince, the Governor, and 
one or two members of the suite were lodged in an old Dutch 
house, the only one in the place. The others were quartered in 
huts close at hand. The temporary residences erected on such 
occasions as these are graceful to look at, and not uncomfortable 
to live in. The house, if so it may be called, in which we slept 
was formed of bamboos driven into the ground, with a sloping 
roof, made of lighter slips of the same material, on which palm 
leaves were fastened. The edifice consists of a central hall, with 
four rooms of about 10 feet by 6, constructed of calico and bam- 
boo frames, provided with windows and little doorways opening 
into the central hall, all finished as though we were going to 
remain there for a month at least: there is a veranda, about 
five feet broad, between the outer wall of the house, to which 
the overhanging roof descends. Ten bamboo pillars sustained 
the veranda in front, on which hung, by way of ornament, cocoa- 
nuts, and their flowers, festoons and garlands. At dinner, which 
was served in an open hall made of bamboos thatched with 
leaves, there was much talk of elephants and sporting. It was 
reported that some planters had camped close to the forest where 
elephants were concealed, and it was feared they might start the 
herd. This, considering who was going to shoot, was de mauvais 
goiit, and that they could hunt when they pleased ; but it is prob- 
able they erred from ignorance. Mr. Varian and Mr. Fisher, 
two young gentlemen of the Forest Department experienced in 
elephant hunting, Mr. Campbell, Mr. Hudson, and others, 
attached to the police under Major Tranchell, joined to assist 
the expedition. The party retired early to rest, and, as a pre 
cautionary measure, Dr. Fayrer served out quinine all round. 



A CURIOUS "BAG." 247 

December 5. — The rest of the baggage arrived safe, but 
not sound, during the night. Still the rain continued. The 
weather was what one might call muggy ; and though the palm- 
leaf roofs had kept out the rain completely, the interiors of the 
huts were damp and steaming. Wonderful birds — paroquets 
Vingcrows, pigeons, barbets, &c. — fluttered from branch to branch 
of the trees around our temporary encampment. It was yet 
very early in the morning when Mr. Birch sounded the turn- 
out to a breakfast of tea and coffee, toast and fruit. The 
Prince, accompanied by Lord Suffield, Lord Charles Beresford, 
and one or two others, went out down by the river to procure 
some specimens for Mr. Bartlett to stuff. The bag consisted 
of various kingfishers, woodpeckers {Brachypterni), a snake or 
two, snipe, and a Kabrogaya lizard {Hydrosaurus salvator), 5 
feet 7 inches in length, killed by Lord Carington, which was 
found to be filled with small crabs. Apropos of snakes. Dr. 
Fayrer and Mr. Campbell, an active officer of the police force 
of the island, had an animated discussion. The latter gentle- 
men is a firm believer in the efficacy of ammonia as a specific 
for snake-poison, and declared that he had cured many cases by 
the use of it. This Dr. Fayrer declared to be impossible ; and 
when Mr. Campbell asserted that he had cured men who were 
bitten by snakes. Dr. Fayrer replied that the snakes were not 
poisonous, and that if they had been so, ammonia could not have 
saved the patients. I did not like to suggest to Mr. Campbell 
that he should allow himself to be bitten by an undoubtedly 
poisonous snake, for so firm did he seem in his belief, that I 
believe he would have tried it, and I was confident enough in 
the soundness of Dr. Fayrer's knowledge to think that Mr. 
Campbell would have fallen a victim to his zeal. In the after- 
noon there was another shooting excursion in the jungle close 
at hand. It was said that there were deer and other y^r^ naturce 
in it in abundance. The beaters went in to drive for them, and 
as Lord Suffield was standing on the edge of a swampy patch, 
amidst tall grass, in a very thick part of the wood, he was put 
on the alert by the rush of some animal close to him, which 



248 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

afforaed a glimpse of a glistening brown hide. He fired, and 
down went the beast. It was a fine buffalo ; but there is some 
suspicion that it was not altogether in a state of nature. Two 
pengolins, or scaly ant-eaters, were captured by the natives for 
Mr. Layard, who is a great naturalist. In the evening a thunder- 
storm burst over the camp, and the rain once more came down 
in torrents. A flash of lightning came so near Macdonald, the 
Prince's chief jager, that he fell to the ground, and Dr. Fayrer 
experienced a numbing sensation from a bolt which seemed to 
fall close to our dwelling. 

As I did not feel very well, and had a good deal to do, I 
sent my servant over to the mess-hut for my dinner. The poor 
wretch returned with the exclamation, " Look, Sahib ! Plenty 
leech about ! " I looked and saw he had actual " anklets " of 
leeches. They hung by scores on his legs, and gave him the 
appearance of having jet ornaments on his nether extremities. 

December d. — Rat, tat, tat, beat the rain all night on the leafy 
roof of our dwelling. When the dawn woke up the noisy birds 
in the trees around the encampment, the air was so " thick " tliat 
the light could scarcely pierce the fleece of white vapor which rose 
from the reeking earth, but " as the sun ascended the weather 
mended." The day, however, never became what is called 
"sunny," but it was steaming hot, and every one of the party lived 
and moved and had his being in a portable warm-bath of his own, 
which may be " nothing when one is used to it," but which is 
very trying before that feat is accomplished. The limp, worn- 
out natives had an air as if they had been swimming for their 
lives all night and had just scrambled upon the bank, and were 
not to the front with their usual alacrity. It was six o'clock. 
Out of my calico window I could see the police-sentries pacing 
up and down in the mud before the Prince's bungalow ; and in 
the open shed outside the sportsmen were beginning breakfast, 
attired in their shooting-dresses. Looking out of my calico 
door, I saw Mr. Birch looking out of his upon our common table^ 
whereon were laid bananas, oranges, bread and coffee ; and after 
the customary morning salutations, and a hasty meal, Mr. Birch 



LEECH GAITERS. 249 

whipped up his young friends, and told them off to their different 
carriages. The Governor went back to Hanwele, to make 
arrangements for the return to Colombo. His Royal Highness 
soon afterwards appeared in a broad-brimmed solar topee, sober- 
hued jacket and knickerbockers, and " leech gaiters." These 
necessary additions to one's toilet are stocking-shaped bags of 
linen, which are pulled over the feet and fastened at the knee 
before the shoes are put on. They are supposed to baffle the 
efforts of the denizens of Ceylon forests to suck the traveller's 
blood. The jungle in which the elephants were abiding was 
about seven and a half miles south from Ruanwella, and horses 
had been sent on to await the Prince on the roadside, to take 
him on by a path cut through the forest to the KraaL Lord 
Aylesford, Dr. Fayrer, Mr. S. Hall, Mr. Varian, Lord C. Beres- 
ford, and Mr. Fisher went ahead in a mail-coach, which had 
been relieved from its ordinary duty. The Prince, attended by 
Lord Suffleld and General Probyn, followed in a carriage, 
escorted by lancers of the Governor's Body Guard ; and a third 
carriage, in which were Mr. Birch, Mr. FitzGeorge, Mr. Thack- 
well, aide-de-camp, and myself, closed the rear of the little 
cortege. We drove through a wooded country, in which the view 
was shut by walls of dense forest, to the main road ; and at 8 
A. M. we saw a considerable crowd in advance on high ground, 
on which there is a village called, I believe, Algeda. " Where 
is the Prince ? " exclaimed Mr. Birch. *' He has gone on," was 
the reply. " Where ? " " We don't know ! " Here was a situa- 
tion ! The Prince's carriage had passed the place where it ought 
to have stopped. What was to be done ? The horses in waiting 
had not been observed by any of the Prince's party, and those 
who saw his carriage supposed the coachman was going to pull 
up further on. There was a pulling up, but not of horses, on 
account of this incident afterwards. The delay might not seem 
to be of much consequence, but as the beaters in the jungle had 
begun to drive the elephants at 7 a. m., or, according to Mr. 
Atherton's account, nearly an hour sooner, there was just the 
chance that the whole of the preparations made with so much 
II* 



250 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

labor and at so great a cost would come to naught if the Prince 
were not at his post. Lieutenant Thackwell_, one of the Gover- 
nor's aides-de-camp, ever active and ready, at once mounted a 
horse ; but the animal had a will of his own, and he and his 
rider were a long time arguing it out before they could agree on 
a common course of action. Mr. Campbell started off on horse- 
back and Mr. Varian on foot j but the Prince was not overtaken 
till his carriage had reached the ferry-boat at Avisawella, some 
good three miles further. The feelings of Mr. Birch meanwhile, 
as, communing with himself, he walked up and down in a field 
off the road, were set forth in touching pantomine. Waiting by 
a roadside is weary work ; and Mr. FitzGeorge and myself, after 
a short conversation with Major Tranchell, who was guarding 
the entrance to the wood with his police, resolved to walk to the 
rendezvous. The path, deep-trodden by many feet, led by the 
side of a clear stream through primeval forest and jungle ; and 
after a walk of half a mile or so, we came on bamboo huts and 
the embers of fires where the watch had been keeping in the 
elephants. Then we passed sheds in which biscuits, tobacco, 
bread, eggs, and fruit were on sale. In fact, within the silent 
jungle which was spread out before us there weie parties various- 
ly estimated to number 1200 or 1500 men, who had been en- 
gaged for more than a fortnight constructing the Kraal, and 
keeping an eye on the elephants. 

We passed two barriers guarded by police, and arrived at a 
platform — a sort of Grand Stand — in the forest, on which we 
found Lord Aylesford, Dr. Fayrer, and others, awaiting the 
arrival of the Prince. From this we looked down on an im- 
mensely high and strong stockade, formed of trunks of trees 
strongly strutted and stayed, extending across a shallow wooded 
valley, at the bottom of which there was a tiny rivulet. At the 
other side of the valley were trees, creepers, and bamboos, so 
thick that the stockade could hardly be seen twenty or thirty 
yards off. Beyond the impenetrable forest gloom. Outside the 
stockade, running across the valley up the hillside, there was a 
stake net of wood-work, into which the beaters were to drive the 



THE STOCKADE. ^^ I 

elephants after they had been forced past the high rock on which 
the Prince was to be placed ; spears and pointed stakes were 
piled up to be thrust between the openings should any elephant 
try to break through. Lining the stockade were some hundreds 
of men, keeping very quiet. 

At 9 A. M. the Prince arrived on horseback, dismounted, and 
passed through the stockade to the stand. He was attended by 
Lord C. Beresford and Robertson. Mr. Hall was placed in a 
tree within sight of the Prince. The yells of the beaters had 
been audible for some time before his arrival. Mr. Fisher and 
Mr. Varian went inside the stockade to direct the operations, 
and then we all waited for an hour patiently. Eleven o'clock, 
twelve o'clock, one o'clock, came and went. Still no shot. At 
half-past one o'clock there was a tremendous commotion. The 
word was passed that the herd was coming down towards the 
stockade. In effect they did. We heard the beaters' cries com- 
ing nearer and nearer — just as in a deer drive in the Highlands. 
The platform was deserted. Every one rushed to the Kraal, 
armed with spears or long bamboos to thrust through the inter- 
stices and drive back the elephants. Every eye was strained to 
pierce the forest depths, where bamboos and trees cracked like 
pistol shots beneath the trampling of elephant hoofs. Thrice 
the Prince caught a glimpse of a ridge like the top of a loaf of 
brown bread moving swiftly through the jungle ; but it was only 
for a moment. Suddenly the cries of the beaters ceased, the 
crashing and snapping noises receded. " The herd has gone 
back again." " The tusker has charged and broken through." 
It was the same thing over and over again. All attempts to 
force the herd towards the stockade failed. In the jungle were 
two herds. One of only three, led by an old tusker — charged 
with the death of four European sportsmen and of many cattle — 
the other of seven — lady elephants. When the beaters came up, 
the latter put themselves under the old tusker, who proved to be 
a leader whose courage and coolness were only equalled by his 
sagacity and strategical skill. He not only refused to be driven, 
but, charging at the head of his column, he broke through the 



2^2 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

beaters again and again, driving them up trees for shelter, and 
utterly spoiling sport. A suspicion arose that the Chief was play- 
ing false. He was to have whatever elephants could be " kraaled." 
If the Prince fired, there was small chance of driving them to the 
enclosure ; it was supposed, therefore, that he had given orders 
to dodge the elephants past the Prince's stand, if possible. Per- 
haps he was wronged. He was told that if the Prince did not 
get a shot, the Kraal would be destroyed that night ; and he was 
seriously spoken to, as if he" could control the elephants and the 
beaters. I do not know if he could. Certain it is, however, 
that about 2 p. m., after the Prince had been five hours in his 
stand, and Lord Suffield and others had volunteered to try to 
dispose of the tusker, a report came that the old hero and the 
three ladies he was guarding so devotedly had separated from 
the herd of seven elephants with which they had fraternized, and 
had escaped clean away into the forest. In vain the beaters 
yelled like demons ; they were charged by Don Tuskerando, 
obliged to run uphill and to get into trees, and to begin the drive 
again. At last it was resolved to apply the ordeal which 
elephants so much dread. Dried timber was piled up in the 
jungle to windward of the female herd, and set on fire. Mr. 
Fisher and Mr. Varian marshalled the beaters, and permission 
was given to some of them who were armed to fire into the rear 
of the elephants. Presently branches crashed, and trees shook 
violently, a couple of shots were heard — an elephant rushed, like 
some great rock, down the hillside within twenty yards of the 
Prince, who fired, and hit the beast in the head, but it went on 
and was lost in the forest. In a few minutes Mr. Fisher ran up, 
" steaming," and said, " Sir ! If you will come with me I think I 
can get you a shot. I have wounded an elephant ; I know where 
he is, and you can kill him." The Prince descended from his 
post and set out with him creeping through the dense jungle as 
well as he could. Mr. Fisher and Mr. Varian were on each side 
and a little in advance of his Royal Highness, Peter Robertson, 
Lord Sufiield, Lord C. Beresford, and Mr. Hall followed in the 
rear. The heat was great ; it was impossible to see two yards 



A " CRAWL IN THE JUNGLE, 



253 



ahead Shooting hats were lost, clothes torn. Suddenly the 
elephant which had been wounded was discovered through the 
jungle. The Prince fired — the elephant dropped at once, and 
lay as if dead. Mr. Hall stopped to take a sketch ; but after a 
while the elephant began first to move, then to kick, and finally 
to get on his legs ; whereupon Mr. Hall, doubting whether he 
could challenge the revenant to an encounter with a lead-pencil, 
prudently sought safety in flight. Meantime the Prince and his 
companions were advancing in the jungle towards the place 
where the principal herd was supposed to be. There was a 
crashing noise in the forest ahead. The beaters got up into 
treeso A halt was called. Mr. Fisher and Mr. Varian became 
uneasy and alarmed, and, inexperienced gentlemen thought un- 
necessarily so. But they knew the situation. Elephants were 
close at hand, though they could not be seen. At any moment 
an elephant might rush out ; evasion and escape were hopeless, 
for in such a jungle no man could do more than very slowly 
creep, whilst the elephant could go through the brush as a ship 
cleaves the water. All at once. Mr. Fisher perceived an elephant 




A "CRAWL IN THE JUNGLE, CEYLON. 



254 

not ten yards off in the very act of charging. The Prince caught 
sight of it also, fired, and it disappeared in the jungle. The 
huntsmen continued in pursuit cautiously, but the creepers and 
thick under growth made stout resistance, so that their progress 
was slow, and not unexhausting. In a few minutes more another 
elephant was seen, where the bush was not so dense, by the side 
of the rivulet. The Prince took deliberate aim and fired. The 
great beast toppled, and fell over on its side in the stream, where 
it dammed up the waters ! There ensued a scene of great ex- 
citement. The Prince descended the bank, but they called to 
him to take care. They approached and watched for a moment. 
The creature did not move — it was " dead, sure enough ! " Then 
the Prince, assisted by the hunters, got into the water and 
climbed upon the inert mountain of flesh. Down came the 
natives from tree, stockade, and hillside. Europeans and Cin- 
galese dashed into the stream, and cheered again and again, 
and the whole party whooped and woke up the glade with their 
cries, as the Prince was seen standing on the prostrate body — 
which was not that of the redoubtable tusker. The Prince, 
according to custom, cut off the tail. As soon as his back was 
turned, the Cingalese took pieces from the ears as trophies of 
the day. The Prince was streaming with perspiration, his 
clothes wet, and torn to shreds. It was getting dark, and quite 
time to get out of the jungle. The party mounted their horses 
and returned to the road. Carriages were waiting to take them 
to Hanwele, where Governor Gregory and others, having gone 
down the river by boat from Avisawella, were waiting to receive 
the Prince ; but ere he arrived, he met with a little, which might 
have been a great, accident. At the corner of a small bridge, 
where there was a deep ditch, the carriage went right over, fling- 
ing the occupants on each other. Lord Ayiesford was on the box 
beside the driver. General Probyn, Lord C. Beresford, and Mr. 
FitzGeorge were inside with the Prince. The vehicle was broken, 
but the Prince emerged unhurt. His Royal Highness acts on 
the principle of the late Duke of Wellington, " not to be afraid 
of a danger when it is over," and the first thing he did was to 



THE RIVER KALANY GANGA. 255 

inquire after " his elephant's tail." It was long after dark when 
the Prince reached his quarters, and he must have been excessively 
tired ; but he gave a full account to the Governor of his adven- 
tures in the jungle, and of his upset. At the latter he laughed 
heartily ; but there might have been very serious results had the 
coach turned over a few feet further on. 

At Hanwele, which is eleven miles from the ferry at Avisa- 
wella, there are the remains of an old Dutch Fort. The Prince 
slept in the Bungalow, or Rest-house, and his followers were 
quartered in various detached buildings. The fort is situated 
on the Kalany Ganga, which, swollen by the rains, now presents 
a noble appearance. 

December 7. — Soon after 7 a. m. the Prince, though there had 
been a late sitting to talk over the details of the day's sport, to 
wait for tidings of the wounded elephants, and to read letters 
and home news in the mail which had just arrived, left Hanwele, 
and drove nineteen miles to Colombo. 

Whilst his Royal Highness and party were travelling by road, 
I was descending the river Kalany Ganga, from Hanwele to 
Grand Pass. The boat in which I was a passenger was some- 
thing like the large vessels formerly used by Europeans on the 
Ganges, and could have accommodated a dozen persons. In 
the stern there was a luxurious apartment, intended to shelter 
one from the sun, covered over with thatch, provided with sofa, 
table, chairs, &c. Further aft was a kitchen, where the meals 
were cooked. The crew consisted of four men, who sometimes 
allowed the boat to glide down the current of its own accord, the 
steersman astern directing it with an oar-like rudder, sometimes 
pulled vigorously, and sent it along at a speed of six or seven 
miles an hour. The river was at the full ; broader than the 
Thames at Greenwich, but flowing through very different scenery. 
I have never beheld anything, even in our recent journey, so 
wonderful as the mass of vegetation and the continuous wall of 
forest on the banks. It could not be supposed that there were 
any human habitations in such jungle, but at every turn, and 
there were many, we came upon the natives fishing, and naviga- 



2$6 THE PRBNCE OF WALEs' TOUR. 

ting their frail barks, and through the openings in the glades 
here and there, caught sight of hamlets, which but for the cocoa- 
nut-palms that hedged them in, justifying the Cingalese notion 
that the tree will not live out of reach of the human voice, would 
be scarcely distinguishable from the foliage around. 

A civil native gentleman seeing me, when I landed at Grand 
Pass, in difficulties for a conveyance to the Governor's house, 
very kindly harnessed his horse to a gig and drove me to 
Colombo, where I arrived in time for the Prince's levee, which 
was attended not only by the Europeans and Cingalese authori- 
ties, officials, planters, and gentry, but by deputations from 
all parts of the island, some with presents and addresses, and 
by a large number of yellow-robed priests. The presentations were 
numerous, and the levee was not long over before it was neces- 
sary to change and prepare for a visit to the Exhibition at the 
Agri-Horticultural Enclosure, where a very instructive collection 
of the products, fabrics, and manufactures of the island, as well 
as specimens of its natural wealth in minerals and precious 
stones, &c., and of jewelry, and the like, were laid out in a 
very large enclosure. But the tent was crowded, and the weath- 
er was too hot to enable the visitors to enjoy the sight. Nafh- 
less, it afforded fair occasion to many ladies and gentlemen to 
see the Prince closely. There was included in the exhibition, in a 
booth specially erected for the ceremony, — but whether designed 
for the Agricultural or the Horticultural part I cannot assert, — 
the representation of a Cingalese wedding. For those who 
are curious in such subjects, and who care to learn what the 
ceremonies are, there are plenty of books extant, and it would 
be, perhaps, misleading to describe what the Prince saw, as it 
might have been a " mock marriage," or a Gretna Green busi- 
ness a la Colombo. Nor shall I say more about the exhibition 
of the detachment of Veddahs than remark that they destroyed 
two phases of faith which had obtained among the visitors. They 
were such indifferent marksmen with the bow and arrow that 
they would have been nowhere at a good Archery Club Meeting, 
and when they were amused they laughed like other people As 



THE VEDDAHS LAUGH. 



257 



to the first, it must be admitted that they had to shoot before the 
Prince in the midst of an immense concourse ; and as to the 
second, they may have been very much tickled at the idea 
of being sketched, for when Mr. Hall produced his pencil and 
book, and began to take notes of them, there could be no doubt 
of their hilarity, and the harder he looked at them and sketched, 
and the more they looked at the artist, the greater was their merri 
ment. Sir Emerson Tennent gives the fullest and best account 




THE VEDDAHS LAUGH. 



of these curious people, and it is a disheartening reflection that 
with materials so void of prejudices ane) dogma, it is impossible 
to make Christians out of them. Voila ! — *' something which 
gives to reflection ! " From the Agri-Horticultural the Prince 
drove to see elephant arches and trophies, returning to the State 
Banquet in the Queen's House, to which Sir W. H. Gregory had 
invited all the people of note and foreign Consuls, to the number 

17 



258 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

of seventy, to have the honor of meeting him ; the like of which 
has never, one may safely say, been seen in any time of Cinga- 
lese Kings, or of Indian, Portuguese, Dutch, or English. Nor 
with that and with its pleasures was the cup quite filled, for a 
ball of exceeding brilliancy and admirable in every way, at the 
Colombo Club, followed at 10 p. m. I am not quite sure of the 
building, though I can aver that it was spacious, airy, abounding 
in fine rooms handsomely decorated, with excellent music, good 
floor, and indefatigable dancers. Human nature, not princely, 
gives way under such stress of enjoyment. Certain of the guests, 
quite tired out, retiring to the Queen's House, rather early, 
thought they would like to procure a glass of water or lemonade. 
They called and rang, stamped and shouted — no one canre. Voices 
were heard all the while clacking in Cingalese at hand, whereupon, 
claymore in hand, the Duke burst in upon them. And lo ! they 
vanished " like ghosts at cockcrow " into the woods, or who 
knows where — but, any way, the Governor the following morning 
prayed, in much amused trepidation, that next time we might do 
our spiriting gently, "for," says he, " these fellows think nothing 
of going off into the jungle, and I don't know where to get others, 
so that we may be left without servants in an instant." The 
situation was too grave for the hint to "be neglected. 

December 8. — There was general lassitude this morning. 
The effects of the shooting-excursion in the forest and of the 
climate are disagreeably evident. Lord Suffield suffers from 
sore throat ; Lord Aylesford has slight fever ; Mr. Grey is far 
from being well, and has to remain in his room. The house 
was hemmed in with box-wallahs. They were regularly in 
possession, sat outside all the bedroom doors, and encamped in 
the passages and garden. Some who had been forbidden admis- 
sion hovered outside the sentries, and tempted purchasers from 
afar. Inconceivable rubbish was displayed with much ostenta- 
tion, and for anything good, the prices were ridiculous. " Cat's- 
eyes " were offered for 600/., which were probably worth a third 
the sum to those who have an affection for such stones. Never- 
theless, there were heavy purchases made on simple principles. 



TAMIL COFFEE PICKERS. 259 

"What's the price of this ring? " " That very fine ring, my lord ? 
Sold one like it one thousand rupees, not same good as that." 
" I'll give you five hundred for it. Come ! will you take it .'' " 
" My lord, say just eight hundred ! I should like to oblige you." 
" Be off with you." " Will my lord give seven hundred rupees, 
and ruin me .'' " " No ; not a penny more than five hundred." 
" Just say, my lord, six hundred and fifty, to let me have one 
rupee profit." " No," &c. The ring, be sure, is sold for the 
five hundred, and is seldom worth what is paid for it ; but there 
are exceptions to the rule, and some very pretty, and valuable 
articles of jewelry were purchased at fair prices. There were visits 
promised to Messrs. Leechman's cocoa manufactory, and to 
Messrs. Walls' coffee factory in the forenoon. The Prince 
called, on his way to them, to see an enormous tortoise, said 
to have belonged to the last Dutch Governor, and to be more 
than a hundred years old. The tortoise, who was " at home," 
appeared not to be at all sensible of the honor, and to have more 
than his share of Dutch phlegm. Thence his Royal Highness 
went, in a very hot sun, to the cocoa manufactory and to the 
coffee factory, which deserved a visit much better than most 
show places. In the coffee-picking rooms there were some 
hundreds of Tamil women and girls, who come over from the 
mainland with their families. They displayed a surprising 
quantity of silver bangles, necklaces, bracelets, gold ear-rings, 
and rings. The workers in any English factory would surely 
have envied them. Their behavior was perfect ; they neither 
stared nor giggled". The curious and characteristic jewelry 
and ornaments attracted the attention of some of the visitors ; 
and the English superintendant was asked to buy what struck 
them. Indeed, there were independent efforts made at barter 
by intending purchasers, who held out hands full of money, 
and pointed out what they affected; but the owners did not 
appear inclined to sell. When the superintendent came on 
the scene, it was different. I fear he ordered. No doubt the 
women received full value, and more, for their ornaments ; but 
they showed no disposition to part with them, and one, as she 



260 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

removed her armlets, was quite forlorn, and hid her tearful eyes 
with her hand when they were removed. Certainly the. ordinary 
Tamil silversmith in the bazaar can make the articles ; but there 
might have been some feeling among these poor people — some 
"heirloomry " sentiment about the ornaments. 

Messrs. Fisher and Varian appeared at lunch, and reported 
that the two wounded elephants had escaped to the mountains. 
At 4.30 p. M. the Prince received deputations, native literates 
and learned Buddists, who presented addresses and presents. 

The laying of the foundation-stone of the new Breakwater 
by the Prince this afternoon was an interesting ceremony. There 
was a considerable assemblage, guard of honor, band and 
colors of the 57th Regiment, in the enclosure around the stone, 
which was lowered to its place with the usual formalities, but 
the eye was most taken with the splendid crew of the Serapis. 
Their bronzed faces, broad chests, and fine stature, afforded a 
great contrast to those of the "washed-out-looking " and slightly 
made men of the infantry regiment, the men of which lined the 
way to the reserved seats. Colombo is an open roadstead 
much vexed by ocean, and landing and embarking always are 
difficult. The undertaking is a great one, and worthy of all 
success ; and the breakers which thundered close at hand spoke 
very eloquently of the necessity for such a work, which will 
illustrate the administration of Sir W. H. Gregory. 

The Prince, followed by the people to the water's edge, left 
Colombo for the Serapis in the evening. A farewell dinner was 
given on board to the Governor and authorities. The town and 
the country round about were illuminated — the fleet and shipping, 
bright as lanterns, blue and red lights, rockets, maroons, and 
bombs could make them. With the expression of his perfect 
contentment to all concerned for his reception at Ceylon, and 
many acknowledgments of the pleasure he had derived from his 
visit, the Prince bade his excellent host, Sir W. H. Gregory, and 
his staff and the chief persons, good-by. 

Friar Jordanus and others have told us many wonderful 
things about this ancient kingdom. But the quantity of truth-^ 



THE EVIL ONE IN CEYLON. 261 

a rare article in the writings of ancient travellers — which he 
wrote, all things considered, is remarkable. We did not, indeed 
come across the " island wherein there is a lake with a tree in 
the midst of it, which hath the property of turning everything 
into gold which is washed with the water, and of curing every 
wound that is rubbed with the leaf of the tree." There is still 
quite enough of marvel and novelty in Ceylon to attract travel- 
lers, even although they may not be so fortunate as Knox and 
Jordanus. I am glad to add that none of us in our rambles 
chanced, as far as I know, to meet with what they both speak of. 
" What shall I say then ? " exclaims Jordanus. " Even the Devil 
speaketh many a time and oft to man in the night season, as I 
have heard him." Mr. Mitford presumes to insinuate that it 
was the cry of a night-hawk which the Friar mistook for the 
voice of the Evil One ; but Knox, in his narrative of adventures, 
declares that at night he frequently heard Beelzebub calling out 
in Ceylon. He says, " This for certain I can affirm, that often- 
times the Devil doth cry with audible voice in the night. It is 
very shrill, almost like the barking of a dog, and this I have 
often heard myself ; but I never heard that he did anybody any 
harm." (The puir De'il !) " Only this observation the inhabitants 
of the island (Ceylon) have made of this voice, andl have made 
it also, that either just before, or very suddenly after this voice, 
always the King cuts off people. To believe that this is the 
voice of the Devil three reasons urge, and 'tis so accounted by 
all the people : — ' ist. Because there is no creature known to 
the inhabitants that cries like it ; and (2) because it will on a 
sudden depart from one place to make a noise in another 
quicker than any fowl could fly ; and (3) because the very dogs 
will tremble and shake when they hear it. This voice is heard 
only in Kandy, and never in the lowlands.' " Then he goes on 
to tell how the Cingalese, *' when they hear this voice, will curse 
the Devil, calling him a 'beef-eating slave,' and telling him" 
(which seems needless) " to be damned. Whereupon the voice 
always ceaseth for awhile, and seems to depart, being heard at 
a greater distance." 



262 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

The Prince had to overcome opposition to his project of 
including Ceylon in the tour. There were difficulties in rela- 
tion to other places in the programme connected with the visit, 
which encouraged those who did not think the island very inter- 
esting to persist in objections which it needed persistence to meet 
and overcome. The Prince has to be congratulated on the re- 
sult. He greatly pleased the inhabitants, native and European, 
and he certainly, notwithstanding the weather and some impedi- 
ments to the execution of the original plan, passed a very agree- 
able time there. The memories of Ceylon will always be green 
as the island itself. 




CARVING A GOD AT MADURA. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



TUTICORIN MADRAS. 



Tuticorin — Tamil land — Tinnevelly Christians — Madura — The cholera again 
— Trimul Naik — The Ranee of Shivagunga — Seringham — Trichinopoly — 
Madras — The Duke of Buckingham's Reception — The Golden Umbrella 
— The Rajas — Prince of Arcot — Races — Illumination of the Surf — Na- 
tive Entertainment — Departure. 

December 9. — In the middle watches of the night the Serapis^ 
to the great satisfaction of her officers, left her moorings in the 

26^ 



264 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

road-Stead of Colombo, and proceeded to sea. As the first turn of 
the screw shook the vessel, and as she reeled over in the sea- 
way, there were probably a few, who turned uneasily in their 
hammocks, aware of the fact that we were under weigh, and 
would see Ceylon no more. When the morning advanced, 
there could be no doubt that we were at sea, and very 
much so, too. Although sailors might not consider the wind 
strong, it was powerful enough to raise a lopping sea, which ren- 
dered it impossible to enjoy any amusement on deck, and which 
also, as we afterwards learned, caused much alarm to the special 
correspondents, for whose use Sir William Gregory had provided 
a coasting steamer— the best he could procure— of no great pow- 
er or size. An uninteresting sea ; no vessels or boats in sight. 
On the right a faint cloud-like land, which melted away gradually 
in the Gulf of Manaar. Observations at noon gave lat. 8° i' n., 
long. 78° 56' E. Eighty-six miles since 4 a. m. Tuticorin Light 
sixty-four miles distant. About 4 p. m. the coast could be made 
out, and after a time we saw the inevitable palm-trees, which 
waved their arms to welcome us. But riding outside, some dis- 
tance from the shore, a brig at anchor afforded unpleasant proof 
of the roughness of the sea. Staff-Commander Goldsmith, how- 
ever, did not think much of it, though he was not so well pleased 
with the soundings, which showed that the Serapis would have to 
give the land a wide berth. Presently the Light-House and a coast 
which put one greatly in mind of the scenery about Shoeburyness, 
plus cocoa-nut-trees, came in view. At 5.25 p. m. the Serapis 
brought up five miles south of Tuticorin. There was no appear- 
ance of any authority with or without a cocked hat. The " locals " 
were evidently taken by surprise— caught in 3. siesta, or ignorant of 
the Prince's coming. Commander Durrant came off from the Os- 
borne, and had by no means an easy task to board. He and his 
crew had a ducking, and as he stepped on the ladder he was caught 
by a wave up to his knees. When he had occasion to go back, he 
very wisely, if very actively, lowered himself down by a ladder of 
ropes hanging astern into his gig. At 7 p. m. a boat came off 
from shore with the Master- Attendant. It was ordered that the 



TUTICORIN. 265 

luggage and baggage should be ready at daybreak, lighters to be 
alongside at 5 a. m. to convey them on shore. 

December 10. — At 5 a. m. every one was up and stirring; 
but not a boat was to be seen. The sea was "rough and lumpy." 
and it rained during the night. As I was in my cabin I heard a 
heavy thump on the deck, and was told by Dr. Fayrer that a 
man had fallen out of the mizzen rigging, and was very badly 
hurt. It was one of the few accidents which occurred on board, 
and, I am glad to say, the man quite recovered. At 6 a. m. three 
large boats were seen beating around the point under reefed 
main-sails. Before they arrived alongside, the Margaret North- 
cote, which is certainly not intended for anything but the smoothest 
inland navigation, struggled to get near the Serapis, and made 
terribly bad weather of it as she encountered the roll of the sea. 
She is a very crank little craft, and will go pearl-fishing for her- 
self some day, if she be sent out in bad weather. We gazed with 
compassion at the group of gentlemen in uniform — Mr. Robin- 
son, Colonel Hearn, Mr. Shaw Stewart, Dr. Stewart, and others 
— on board, when she came near enough to enable us to see her 
deck, which inclined sideways occasionally, as if to tilt them into 
the sea. Compassion for them deepened into commiseration for 
ourselves when we were informed that the body of the suite would 
be transferred on board that very same vessel. To our great 
regret Lord Suffield and Mr. Grey had to remain on board the 
Serapis-\n charge of Dr. Watson, as Dr. Fayrer did not consider 
it judicious for Lord Suffield to expose himself to the land jour- 
ney, and Mr. Grey was too weak to attempt it. It was a 
inauvais quart d'heure for those on board the Mai'garet North- 
cote. It seemed as if she never would get her anchoY. General 
Probyn, for once assuming control of a department not his own, 
stimulated the gentlemen of color who were not engaged at the 
windlass by fervid orations in, or in what ought to have been, 
their native language, which they seemed not to understand. At 
last we reached terra Jtrma. The preparations were pretty; but 
there was really very little time to look about one. A tem- 
porary pavilion or pandal had been erected, in which the inevi- 
12 



266 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

table address was delivered, and the Zemindars were presented ; 
and when the exchange of courtesies had ended, the Prince walked 
to the Station, where he waited till the exhausted and exhausting 
Margaret Northcote had delivered her luckless freight. It is 
scarcely possible to exaggerate the quiet charms of the scenery 
along the new railway, or the great delight of people at the com- 
bined attraction of the first train of the Prince. The whole pop- 
ulation thronged to the roadside. The tall, erect figures, square 
shoulders, broad chests, narrow flanks, and straight limbs of the 
men, struck one almost as much as the graceful carriage and ele- 
gant forms of the women. It would be difficult to find a finer 
race in any part of the world. Their attitudes of wonder and 
joy were singularly graceful and attractive. Some expressed 
their feelings by placing their hands, clasped as if in prayer, be- 
fore their breasts ; others their fingers to their lips, as if to sup- 
press their cries ; but as the train passed, one and all clapped 
hands, as if they were of a London audience applauding at a thea- 
tre. A more natural, easy, and well-to-do looking people could 
not be found in Christendom. Plains green with sugar, rice, and 
cotton, spread to the foot of the wooded hills of gneiss-rock, 
which, generally conical, were sometimes worn into fantastic out- 
line of castle-like crag and beetling precipice. It is certainly a 
land, if not flowing with milk and honey, inhabited by a popula- 
tion of sweet and kindly disposition, whose virtues are admitted 
by the missionaries, and whose exceeding tractability has gained 
for them " the praise of masters not always given to indulge in 
over-laudation of any native virtues." 

This part of India, which the missionaries call Tamil Land, 
is larger than Bavaria, Saxony, Wurtemberg, and the German 
Dukedoms together, and contains a population of about sixteen 
millions of people. The Nilgherries, rising to the height of 
8000 feet ; the Pulnee, with peaks 7000 feet high, and their 
eastern offshoots, diversify the surface ; and the watersheds 
throw off supplies for the great rivers, which become, however, 
for part of the year, little more than beds of sand. Coffee is 
planted on the lower ranges ; rice, in great quantities, is cultiva- 



TINNEVELLY CHRISTIANS. 26/ 

ted in the plains, and sugar cultivation is extending. Indigo 
and different kinds of grain thrive in parts of the district, if so 
it may be called, and cotton is not only sufficiently abundant for 
the wants of the native manufacturers, but gives margin for 
export. The manufacture of iron, the ore of which is found in 
large quantities, though not of very great excellence, is still 
carried on. Here we have the salt tax and monopoly in full 
force, the French at Pondicherry receiving 40,000/. a year for 
prohibiting the manufacture within their settlements ; the rev- 
enue of the Tamil district from this objectionable source 
amounting to about two millions of rupees per annum. One of 
the German missionaries of the Evangelical Lutheran Society 
has expressed a regret, in which I certainly share, that the so- 
briety of the people has been undermined, if not by the English 
Government, certainly by its legislation, for it has introduced 
the system of selling the right to make palm-tree toddy to the 
highest bidder, and drunkenness — once the great disgrace 
amongst Hindoos, and even a capital offence, and punished 
with severity under the Mohammedans, — is steadily increasing. 

At Maniachy, eighteen miles from Tuticorin, a deputation of 
about 6000 native Christians, including a large body of clergy 
and catechists, and 1000 boys and girls receiving education in 
Church of England schools awaited the arrival of his Royal 
Highness. The Rev. Dr. Caldwell, the able and learned mis- 
sionary of the Society for the propagation of the Gospel, and 
the Rev. Dr. Sergent, a veteran representative of the Church 
Missionary Society, surrounded by a considerable staff of Eng- 
lish clergy, stood on the platform side by side, typifying the 
perfect unanimity with which our two great Church Societies are 
laboring for the evangelization of India. When his Royal High- 
ness alighted from his carriage, the missionaries were presented 
to him by Mr. Robinson and Canon Duckworth. Dr. Caldwell 
read an address of welcome from the Church of Tinnevelly, ex- 
pressing the devoted loyalty of its members and their deep sense 
of the special blessings they enjoyed as the Christian subjects 
of a Christian Sovereign. The progress of the Church of Eng- 



268 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

land Mission in this region was sketched, and it was shown how 
the good seed conveyed from Tanjore by Schwartz, about the 
end of the last century, and that which was sown broadcast 
from 1820 onwards by Rhenins, both German missionaries in 




NATIVE CHRISTIANS AT TINNEVELLY. 



the employ of English societies, had been nurtured by mission- 
aries since 1840, until the native Christian community in Tinne- 
velly is the most numerous in India. Christian congregations 
have been formed in about 600 towns, villages, and hamlets, 



A TAMIL LYRIC. 269 

composed exclusively of converts. The total number of native 
Christians in the district was stated to be 60,000, who are under 
the charge of 54 native clergy and 590 catechists and teachers 
of various grades; and the number of communicants is 10,378. 
The schools are attended by about 13,000 boys and girls. It is 
worthy of note that the Christians in Tinnevelly contributed 
last year 32,483 rupees for the support of their own Church, 
equivalent in the sacrifice it represents to eight or ten times the 
amount in England. At the conclusion of the address a hand- 
somely-bound Bible and Prayer-book, in the Tamil language, 
and offerings of embroidery and exquisitely fine lace, the handi- 
work of girls attending the Tinnevelly schools, were presented 
to his Royal Highness. 

The Prince having replied to the address in gracious and en- 
couraging words, the children sang a "Tamil lyric," composed 
in the Prince's honor, of which the following is a translation, in 
chorus to a quaint native air : — 

" Through the grace of the blessed Lord of Heaven, O son of our Victo- 
rious Queen, mayest thou ever enjoy all prosperity ! 

" It is our peculiar happiness to be subject to a Sceptre under which the 
leopard and the deer continually drink at the same stream. 

" Crossing seas and crossing mountains, thou hast visited this southern- 
most region, and granted to those who live under the shadow of thy Royal 
umbrella a sight of thy benign countenance. 

" May thy realm, on which sun and jnoon never set, become from genera- 
tion to generation more and more illustrious ! 

" May the lion-flag of the British nation wave gloriously far and wide, 
and wherever it waves may the Cross-Banner of our Lord Jesus fly with it 
harmoniously ! 

** God preserve thee and regard thee with an eye of grace, and grant thee 
long life and victory, and bless thee for evermore ! 

"Obeisance to thee! Obeisance to thee, O wise King that art to be! 
Safely may'st thou reach again the capital of thy realm, O thou whom all men 
justly praise I " 

After receiving this vocal homage, his Royal Highness handed 
to representatives from each ^ of the schools mango and other 
seedlings, to be planted in the school-compounds in memory of 



270 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

his visit, and, doubtless, in many a hamlet of Tinnevelly the 
" Prince's tree " will keep alive for generations the traditions of 
the hour when the Christians of Southern India, long, wont to 
pray, like ourselves, for " Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, the 
Princess of Wales, and the rest of the Royal Family," stood face 
to face with their future Sovereigno 

At 12.20 p. M. the train stopped at Kovilpatty, thirty-six miles 
from Tuticorin. There was a small camp and a handsome mess 
tent fitted up luxuriously near the station. The tents belonged 
to the minor Zemindar of Ettiapuram, who was there with his 
kinsfolk and tenants, and the usual mighty multitude, to greet 
the Prince. Once more we had occasion to wonder at the swarm- 
ing masses, and to admire the fine forms, pleasant manners and 
looks, and picturesque appearance of the people. There was a 
halt of half-an-hour for luncheon, and before the Prince resumed 
his journey he accepted from the Zemindar some articles of trifling 
value as mementoes of his visit. A little before 5 p.m. the train 
reached its destination at Madura. The nil admirari is a secret of 
happiness that is now well-nigh lost in India, but there was a light- 
ness and grace in the decorations of the Station and of the streets, 
and something arcadian in the aspect of the city, which, sated 
as the eye is with sights, attracted attention. The engine which 
had drawn the Royal train, hitherto anonymous, was christened 
the Alexandra by the Prince, and the line of the S. I. P. R. to 
Madura declared to be open. The procession of the Prince 
from the Station to his residence was like many others, but it 
succeeded in the object of giving pleasure to thousands of 
spectators. Flags and festoons were profuse ; in the main street 
there was a white triumphal arch of taboot work in perforated 
paper, covered with talc plates and silver plaques, behind which 
was a screen of red. The arch was surmounted by three domes, 
with four minarets, two on each flank. There were also eight 
pandals in the town, in addition to those put up by the Railway 
Company. The cleansing, scouring, white-washing, painting, 
and deodorizing, which were the usual precursors of the Prince's 
visits, were vigorously carried out. 



MADURA. 271 

Madura deserves the credit, which its inhabitants at least 
award to it, of being the most charming town in Southern India. 
The streets, if unpaved, are broad, ornamented with palm-trees, 
well swept and clean. We may believe or not, as we please, 
that it was once the capital of a Kingdom, which sent its am- 
bassadors to Augustus at Rome ; but all must admit that the 
public buildings and temples attest the great prosperity and riches 
of its more recent native rulers. The people say it is called 
Madura from a Sanscrit root signifying " sweetness," and the 
repose of its tanks and groves, and the placid air of its inhabit- 
ants, bespeak long freedom from the effects of war and tumult. 
It is the centre of missionary enterprise, particularly for the Amer- 
ican Societies, and the latest accounts of evangelizing progress 
state that there are 139 congregations in the district, with an 
aggregate of 7000 Christians. In the whole of Tamil Land there 
are said to be now about 120,000 Protestant Christians. But 
there is some reason to fear that the Abbe Dubois was right in 
his melancholy deduction from the labors of his life amongst 
the Hindoos. There is no permanent increase ; in fact, the 
Christian churches seem to have been more numerous and 
flourishing in the time of Friar Jordanus than they are at present. 

When the English succeeded the Dutch, who had driven out 
the Portuguese in Southern India, the ecclesiastical authorities 
and missionaries for some time got on exceedingly well with the 
Churches which recognized the Patriarch of Antioch ; but after 
a while there was a split among those they call the Thomas 
Christians, one portion adhering to the Anglicans, and another 
retaining their allegiance to Antioch, and calling their Bishops 
from Syria. The Roman Catholic Church has still flourishing 
establishments over the land ; and as there are varieties. of mis- 
sionaries belonging to sections of the Protestant Church, each 
working on the account of their own body, — Americans, Germans, 
Danes, and Englishmen, — the natives may point to the discrep- 
ancies amongst these professors of Christianity as some reason 
for adhering to their own belief. But the missionaries have, not- 
withstanding, made greater progress in this region, probably, 



than in any part of the heathen world. Progress has not always 
been uniform ; and if we compare the condition of the ancient 
Christian Churches with that of the present establishments, we 
may find reason to believe that there have been very decided 
lapses, and not only no progress, but retrograde movements at 
times. But that there is no reason to despair of eventual success 
in this part of India is the belief of Sir Bartle Frere and of very 
high authorities. 

In less than an hour the Prince arrived at his charming 
quarters, situated in front of the Teppa Kollum (or " Floating 
Tank "), but with the disadvantage of having the public road 
running between the door-steps and the Tank. The latter is 
walled round and cased with black granite steps. In the midst 
of the tranquil lake there is a shrine, or templCj, embowered in 
trees, on an artificial island. There was an inevitable dispersion 
of the suite. " Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise," 
and we were well content with the quarters assigned to us ; but 
the distance prevented some of the suite seeing the illuminations 
and fireworks — or at least any more of the latter than the highest 
bursting charges. The ladies of the Station were admitted to 
witness them from the roof of the house, and were presented to 
the Prince, and there was, I believe, a musical entertainment 
subsequently. Before dinner the principal personages were 
received ; among them the Native Chiefs, of whom the most con- 
spicuous in more ways than one was the Raja of Pudukotta, 
commonly called the Tondiman Raja. 

His Excellency Raja Ramachundra Tondiman Bahadoor of 
Putukottai, or Pudducottah, is a small stout man of forty-six. 
He speaks English and a little French, as well as Telugu, Tamil, 
Hindustani, and Mahratta ; is a Sudra by caste of the tribe of 
the Kallar (called "Colleries " by Orme). His State, with the 
administration of which he has little or nothing to do, covers 
1380 square miles, and has a population of 320,000. There are 
3000 tanks, some of great size. One peculiarity of the State is 
that it has no treaty with the British Government, is exempt from 
tribute, and has independent Courts of Justice. But, for all that 



"A HORRID WHISPER. 2/3 

the poor man has no power, for he is under British suzerainty, 
and he is controlled even to his expenditure of pocket-money 
by the Political, who' can " remonstrate," — that is, scold and 
threaten him — de 07nnibus. His subjects can be tried in British 
territory for offences therein committed ; but his little State is a 
kind of Alsatia for refugees from the surrounding British districts ; 
and his "army" of 21 horse and 126 foot is sometimes suspected 
of considerable eccentricity in its military capacity. As a pun- 
ishment for running in debt, the Raja has been deprived of some 
of his titles, and has lost his guns ! But he seems to be a 
perverse kind of potentate, an incorrigible, for he was as splendid 
with jewels as any we had seen, and offered presents of great 
price to the Prince. • It is said his jewels are not always in his 
possession, and that his revenue of 325,000 rupees has many 
claims on it. This is not a pleasant condition for the represent 
tative of a house which is described " as the oldest and truest 
allies of the British in Southern India, who most materially aided 
them in their contest for supremacy with the French, especially 
in the stirring events around Trichinopoly, and in the wars 
against Hyder Ali and Tippoo." It is said by some learned 
people that the Tondiman Rajas of the period were mere robber 
Chiefs, and that we ought to be rather ashamed of ourselves for 
the alliance. The Raja showed the Prince a most interesting 
book, consisting of letters, despatches, and correspondence 
between Clive and others and his ancestors relating to these 
times. 

December 11. — " A horrid whisper ran o'er us as we lay" m 
our beds in the bungalow where I was quartered, this morning. 
My servant, with a face perceptibly less dark than usual, inform- 
ed me that the cholera was amongst us. There was a force of 
500 native policemen collected from all parts of the country to 
keep order and to watch over the Royal quarters, apd of these, 
two he said, had been attacked in the night, and were now dead 
men. Apropos of police, it was stated that the. administration 
of this district of 2,500,000 souls is carried on by just seven 
Europeans. 

12* 18 



274 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Trimal Naik, whose name is susceptible of many variations, 
must have been a great king. He reigned at Madura from 1621 
to 1657, and he built palaces, temples (of these no less than 
ninety-six), and tanks on a magnificent scale. His Choultrie 
(" Mandapan "), or lodging-place for the idol, which was taken 
from the Temple near at hand and deposited for ten days each 
year in this great edifice, measures ^^$ feet by 105 feet. It is 
of iron-grey granite of exceeding hardness. It was built in 
twenty-two years, and was finished at a cost of a million sterling, 
just about the time of the outbreak of our civil war between 
Charles I. and his Parliament. In front of the Choultrie there 
is a gate-tower, which Trimal Naik did not live to finish. The 
door-posts are single blocks of granite 60 feet high, covered 
with the most beautifully sculptured foliage — not one square 
inch without a trace of that patient labor. The interior presents 
a display of four rows of sculptured columns 25 feet high. It is 
scarcely too much to say that there is enough of detail on each 
of these to need half-an-hour's study. The figures are elaborated 
with extraordinary richness and abundant fancy. The fagade is 
covered with monsters with lions' heads and bodies, trampling 
on elephants, and with figures on horseback engaged in killing 
men and tigers — the horses' feet resting on shields which are 
borne by soldiers. " As works," says Fergusson. " exhibiting 
difficulties overcome by patient labor, they are unrivalled, as far 
as I know, by anything found elsewhere. As works of art they 
are the most barbarous, it may be said the most vulgar, to be 
found in India, and do more to shake one's faith in the civiliza- 
tion of the people who produced them than anything they did in 
any other department of art.' 

In the great pillared hall there are statues of the Raja and 
of his six wives. There is one whose side exhibits a deep gash. 
The story goes that when the Raja had finished his palace he 
took his wife, who was a Princess of the house of Tanjore, to 
witness the greajt work he had accomplished, expecting her to 
be struck with amazement ; but whether they had had any little 
conjugal quarrel that morning or not, it is quite certain that the 



TRIMAL NAIK. 2/5 

Princess was not moved to the expression of any feeling of 
wonder or surprise. The Raja asked : " Has your father, of 
whose greatness you so often tell me, any building in his do- 
minions at all like this ? " " Like this ! " she replied ; " why 
the sheds in which he keeps his cattle are finer ! " Whereupon 
the Raja, instead of knocking her down and kicking her, like a 
good pattern husband, threw his dagger at her — it struck her in the 
hip and there remained. The excellent missionary who tells the 
story remarks, " The Prince may have been a Httle violent, but 
his haughty wife deserved correction, for neither in her father's 
palace, which is still standing, nor in the whole town of Tanjore, 
is there a hall to compare with his." 

At the entrance to the Palace, part of which, called West- 
minster Hall among the European colonists, is about to be 
converted into public offices, the Prince was received by the 
Trustees of the Temple and by a large body of Zemindars. 
There was a guard of honor, and band and colors of the 19th 
Madras Native Infantry outside. It need not be said that the 
roads and streets through which he passed on his way from the 
Collector's house were crowded, and that the numbers at the 
Palace were prodigious, but even these did not prepare us for 
the aspect of the ancient Hall of Audience which presented a 
compact mass of turbaned heads. Although there was a throne- 
like silver chair placed for him on an elevated dais, the Prince 
stood while the address was being read in very excellent English 
by S. Subramania Tyen, Bachelor of Law and B. A. Vakil, of the 
High Court of Madras, Municipal Commissioner, and one of the 
Trustees of the Great Temple. Having delivered his reply, 
which elicited great applause, his Royal Highness proceeded to 
examine the handsome presents which were offered to him by 
the people and the citizens of Madura, and was then conducted 
round the Palace. In one of the apartments the Prince had an 
interview with the widowed representative of the Chiefs of 
Shivagunga, one of whom inflicted a severe defeat upon our 
forces in times past ; a most charming old lady, who had en- 
treated the favor so persistently that it could not be denied to 



276 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

her. She had, it appeared, been engaged in a long litigation 
with the Indian Government, which had been finally decided in 
her favor on an appeal to the Committee of Privy Council, and 
this decision the Ranee insisted on accepting as th^. act of the 
Queen. " It was the Empress who had done her justice, and 
she wanted to thank her son ; " and so she brought all the 
treasures of her house, and her own son and heir, " to express 
what she felt, and to offer everything she had to the Shahzadah." 
I have seldom seen anything more touching, on or off the stage, 
than her gesture and action when, thanking the Prince, she took 
her son's hand, and placed it between her own, as if in supplica- 
tion, that the Prince might take it. Thence the Prince went to 
see the edifice, of which Trimal Naik's palace is but a portico — 
the shrine of Linga Sunadara ("the beautiful Linga"), said to 
be founded by Raja Kala Shekaya Pandaya between the fifth 
and sixth centuiies. The towers are certainly much more recent, 
and were probably built by the last of the Pandayan Kings 
between a. d. 1450 and a. d. 1500. 

At the entrance to the Temple of Minakshee, the " fish-eyed " 
Goddess, Parvati (who was the wife of Shiva), the Prince was 
received by the chief priests, and by a crowd of inferior eccle- 
siastics, if so they may be called, who presented an address. As 
he, preceded by the guardians and a band of dancing girls of 
the Temple, passed underneath the Gopura, showers of what 
looked like gold-dust were let fall by unseen hands from the 
roof. He was covered with a State shawl. The nautch girls 
scattered flowers before him, fillets of gold and silver tinsel were 
placed on his brow and arms, richly-scented garlands were 
brought in baskets and were passed over his shoulders. The 
suite were decorated in like manner — Canon Duckworth not 
escaping, and reminding one of the expression of Bishop Heber 
on a similar occasion, that " he resembled a sacrifice rather than 
a priest." 

The Temple is a rectangle, with sides 730 feet and 830 feet 
long, and covers twenty acres of ground. A hall of 985 sculp- 
tured columns surrounded by arcades ; grand gateways, porticos, 



THE GREAT TEMPLE. 2/7 

shrines ; mysterious passages ; monster idols, one, " the Belly 
God," with many worshippers ; fearful faces which glared from 
stony eyes ; gliding priests ; oppressive odors ; the recess, spe- 
cially illuminated, in which dwelt the deity Minakshee, of which 
— favor almost without precedent — the Prince and followers were 
vouchsafed a glimpse — it was all very strange and curious, but 
somehow impressed one with a feeling of deep melancholy. 

The shrine, which cost 70,000/., is surrounded by pillars, on 
which are carved the gods and goddesses of the Hindoo mythol- 
ogy. It is covered with a stone canopy, from the corners of 
which are chains of three links carved out of the solid block 
hanging from the stone, of which they formed part. The dome 
over the shrine, which has cost 7500/. already, and will need a 
further outlay of 2500/., is of copper gilt. 

The Tank of the Golden Lotus, — the sacred bench presented 
by Shiva himself for the use of the Collegiate Synod, which 
would be invaluable to the Civil Service Commissioners, — the 
Golden Dome, &c., were all inspected. Great quantities of the 
manufactures of stuffs, for which Madura is still famous, were 
laid out in one of the chapels. Having examined the Temple 
minutely, at 10 a. m. the Prince was driven to the Railway, where 
breakfast was laid under a very fine pandal specially built for the 
occasion. The Tondiman Raja offered elephants' tusks, arms, 
and various other presents. The inhabitants of Madura present- 
ed models of the great Temple and of articles used in the wor- 
ship of their gods ; a gold casket of very fine workmanship ; 
specimens of the manufacture of the place in brass and in various 
colored stuffs and kerchiefs. The Ranee of Shivagunga, the 
interesting lady who was so exceedingly gratified at her interview 
with the Prince, presented boomerangs of steel inlaid with silver 
and with gold mountings, showing that the use of the boomerang 
is not confined to Australia ; stone images, ivory carvings, betel- 
nut-crackers ; an ingenious puzzle-padlock in a case, with a dag- 
ger inside it ; and a sword so finely tempered that it could be 
worn as a belt, which had a history of its own. It belonged to 
the Poligar Catabomna Naik, who completely defeated the British 



2/8 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

forces before his fort at Pangalan Kurichi, in Tinnevelly, in 1801. 
The revenge we took was equally complete. It certainly does 
not say much for the magnanimity of our conduct to a brave foe. 
The fort was carried by assault, and razed to the ground. The 
town shared the same fate. The sites of both were ploughed up 
and sown with salt, and the Chief, who was taken fighting in the 
fort, was hanged. 

When the Prince stepped into the railway carriage to continue 
his journey, the natives renewed their curious clapping of the 
hands and shrill joyous cries. At Dindigal, a town of 13,000 in- 
habitants, the name of which often occurs in the history of Tip- 
poo's wars, the Prince alighted from his carriage and walked on 
the platform to admire the decorations. The fine old Fort, dis- 
mantled and in ruins, could be discerned on the commanding 
site outside the town which rendered it so important. Trichi- 
nopoly, 82 miles from Madura, and 198 miles from Madras, the 
chief and military station of Southern India, was reached at 2.30 
p. M. The address, pandals, flowers, triumphal arches, guards of 
honor, officials in uniform, streets decorated with extraordinary 
richness and taste, were ready for the Prince. There were two 
companies of PI. M. 89th, one battery of artillery, and three regi- 
ments of Native infantry on duty in addition to the Police. Here 
there were official presentations j and when these were over, the 
Prince drove to the house of Mr. Webster, where a pandal, deco- 
rated in the Native fashion, which cost nearly 1000/., had been 
erected for lunch and dinner. After lunch the Prince, accom- 
panied by Mr. Robinson and the authorities of Trichinopoly, &c„ 
drove through the principal streets, crossing the Cavery by a fine 
bridge to visit the famous Temple of Seringham, which is built on 
an island formed by two arms of that river. There he was received 
by the priests, guardians, and attendants, and conducted into the 
interior. The natives outside sat on housetops, walls, in trees, 
on the ground, as close as they could pack, and, as is generally 
the case in the vicinity of the religious establishments, were 
rather morose of aspect. 

The Great Temple is a vast, bewildering mass of gate towers, 



THE GREAT TEMPLE. 2/9 

enclosures, courts, terraces, and halls, which the eye cannot take 
in from any point, and which it is necessary to examine in detail, 
and therefore to see at a disadvantage. One of the halls which 
the Prince examined — 450 feet long by 130 feet broad — contains 
no less than one thousand columns of granite ! They are, how- 
ever, except in one place where the roof is a little elevated, not 
more than 10 feet or 12 feet high, and are necessarily so closely 
packed that there is little space between, and no vista. But then 
observe that each consists of one block, carved most elaborately 
with images of deities, and the like, from top to bottom f The 
effect can only be compared to something described in one of his 
dreams by De Quincey. The gateways, pierced in the immense 
piles of architecture called Gopuras, which surmount them to a 
great height, lead into a labyrinth of courts, the whole surround- 
ed by a wall 2900 feet long by 2500 feet broad. Some of the 
gateways have jambs of granite slabs 40 feet high, the slabs which 
form the roof of the gateway to the north are 24 feet long. These 
Dravidian architects had certainly immense skill in details, but 
small knowledge of general effect, and there is no common pur- 
pose aimed at in their designs. The views of the numerous gate- 
ways, of which there are more than a dozen, from the terraced 
roofs, and the imbroglio of walls and curious roofs and outlines, 
were, nevertheless, very striking. It was intended, Mr. Fergus- 
son says, to have run up the pyramidal tower over the main en- 
trance to the height of 300 feet. The same admirable authority 
tells us that the whole of the Temple dates within the eighteenth 
century, and that the building was stopped by the French, who 
seized upon it and turned it into a fortress during the struggle 
with us. 

Trichinopoly was the central point of the struggle between 
the French and English for the sovereignty of Southern India ; 
but long before that, its position made it an object of immense 
importance to all the great Chiefs who were contending for 
supremacy. In the old times of Mohammedan rule the Governor 
of Arcot was wont to send round to the tributary States a slipper, 
supposed to belong to the Great Mogul, which the vassal was to 



28o THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

meet at the border of his territory, in order that it might be es- 
corted in state to his capital ; but Ranga Kismi, Raja of Trichi- 
nopoly, disliking such an admission of inferiority, and, at the 
same time, fearing to resist compliance with the custom, resorted 
to excuses and delays, and inveigled the carriers of the sacred 
slipper stage after stage from borders of his dominions to his 
palace-gate. When there, the King desired them to throw the 
slipper on the floor, which they did ; whereupon the King, thrust- 
ing his foot into it, exclaimed, " Does your master think I have 
only one leg ? Go back and bring me the other slipper." They 
did come back, but not until after the King's death ; and they 
returned as conquerors. 

There are few miles of this district which have not souvenirs 
of the stirring times when MM. Bussy, Lally de Tollendal, and 
Clive fought it out for the mastery of the country. On our way 
we were shown where the latter saved himself from capture by 
presence of mind — where he caused a large force to surrender 
by a ruse^and so on. On his return to Trichinopoly, the Prince 
visited the old Palace of the Nawabs of the Carnatic, very interest- 
ing and curious, now about to be turned into public offices. An 
address from the inhabitants was read by a Native barrister, and 
the principal Zemindars and people were presented, or, as Mr. 
Robinson says, " were pointed out " to the Prince. The depu- 
tation from Tanjore was introduced with an address and a finely 
worked silver and gold casket. The members of the deputation, 
and several of the Tanjore magnates, were presented by Mr. 
Thomas, Collector. From this — strange scene for the reception 
of addresses by a Prince of "Wales — the cortege was escorted to 
the gate of the Main Guard of the ancient Fortress, so many times 
vivid with musketry and crowned with anxious faces. There was 
a kind of Grand Stand for the Prince, ladies and gentlemen, and 
Chiefs, that they might enjoy the fireworks and the grand sight 
— the lighting of the Rock. However, the sun had not yet set, 
and the effect of the illuminations was for some time kept in 
abeyance by that very potent rivalry. The scene was very 
animated — prodigious multitudes, a large tank with boats below. 



ROCK OF TRICHINOPOLY. 28 1 

Clive's house at the opposite side, and above all, the vast pyramid 
— the llock of Trichinopoly — crested with the Temple of 
Ganesa, whose festivals were attended by thousands of pilgrims. 
Not very long ago a panic occurred at one of these meetings, and 
before it could be allayed, upwards of 500 persons were precipi- 
tat2d down the sheer precipice over the granite steps, or tram- 
pled to death. 

When the sun went down the illuminations began to tell their 
story, and very fine it was. The circular boats on the tank, 
miniature Popoffkas discharged rockets and water serpents — the 
sides of the tank blazed with colored fires and the lines of the 
houses were marked by ribands of flame. These lighted up a 
multitude of faces and colors such as one can see nowhere else. 
Then, just as the vast rock commenced to glow with the most 
original pyrotechnic devices we have yet seen, out sailed the moon. 
The winding stairs and ascent, as well as the Temple, were 
illumi ated at the outset ; but from the summit there were pres- 
ently pouring lava-like floods, now blue, now orange, now green, 
from some overwelling fountain, casing the sides of the great 
mass, far higher and larger than that of Edinburgh, in sheets of 
iridescent flame. The Prince expressed to Mr, Patlabhirain 
Pillay his great admirat^'.on of the effect. At 8 p. m. dinner of 50 
covers was served in the pandaL to which the Brigadier-General, 
Commanding officers, and military and civil authorities were 
invited ; and there was a reception of the ladies of the Station at 
9 p. M., which ended in a pleasant little dance, not prolonged 
after midnight. Then a dispersal to quarters, and exercitations 
of temper in finding them and arousing the sleeping and tired 
domestics. Dr. Fayrer and I owe much to the kindness and 
hospitality of Major and Mrs. Henderson, who caused us to for- 
get how far we were from home. Homo homini lupus — they say. 
In India every one is friend and host to the stranger. On the 
way home we observed that the roads were closely patrolled, and 
were challenged several times by zealous guards. 

It is with surprise one hears of the precautions taken for his 
security wherever the Prince rests, for there is no outward sign 



282 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



of them. As you approach the spot where the Royal Stanaard 
indicates Headquarters, you see sentries on duty, perhaps a few 
native policemen at the corners of the avenues, or in front or 
rear of the house ; but they do their work so unostentatiously, 
that it is only by a close examination of the outposts one can 
form an idea of the magnitude of the force employed. There are 
at this moment 762 native policemen engaged in guarding the 
Prince's headquarters. 

December 12. — There was a heavenly repose in the early 
part of the day. Divine service in the drawing-room at " head- 



ed <«^i^<a>M^_/or QantJu 




BARGAINING FOR BANGLES. 



quarters at 1 1 a. m. Then came irruptions of workers in gold 
and silver, in brass and ebony, and in all the things for which 
Trichinopoly is famous. There was no more peace, but there 
was much bargaining for bangles and jewelry. Packing up 
began at i p. m., and at 4 p, m. the Prince was starting, under the 



ARRIVAL AT MADRAS. 283 

usual military honors, from the house of the Collector for the 
Railway Station, where he was received as on the day of his 
arrival. There were loud cheers raised as the train moved away, 
and the ladies were particularly enthusiastic, for that little dance 
had quite gained their hearts. At Caroor, on the junction of the 
Amavally and the Cavery, the Prince addressed a few words to 
the Native officials, who had prepared the platform very prettily. 
The line runs along the valley of the Cavery to the Erode junc- 
tion (S. I. R. and M. R. Railway), where the Collector and district 
officers of Coimbatore, band, colors, and guard of honor of H. 
M. 43d Regiment were in attendance. Dinner was served at 
8.15 p. M. Mr. Wedderburn and Colonel Wilkinson were invited 
to the Royal table. The journey was resumed soon after 10 p. m. 

December 13. — Rattle and rumble all night long, with the 
exception of two stoppages from heated axles and two distressful 
changes of carriages. It comes quite naturally by this time to 
one to sleep in a railway carriage. At 7 a. m. the train, then 
nearly an hour behind time, pulled up at Perambore, where very 
welcome tea and coifee were served on the platform. Instead of 
6.30 A. M., it was 8.10 A. M. before the train stopped at Roypooram, 
outside Madras, not quite at the right place, overshooting the 
position on the platform of the Duke of Buckingham, who, with 
his staff, the civil and military officers, the municipal body and 
dignitaries of the Presidency, the Rajas of Cochin, Travancore, 
Arcot, Vizianagram, and others, had been long waiting. 

When the usual salutations had been exchanged, and the 
presentations customary on such occasions had been made, the 
state procession set out from Roypooram Station to Government 
House, passing through the streets of the native town, and the 
wide avenue-like throughfares which divide the immense com- 
pounds of the European quarter of Madras. 

The golden umbrella held over the Prince's head was an ex- 
cellent thought, and relieved many doubting minds. It is not 
always easy even for those familiar with European usages to 
make out the principal person in a public procession. The 
Duke of Buckingham, whose attention to details caused the 



284 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

whole Madras visit to be so successful, seized on the- Oriental 
idea of having an umbrella as a special means of identifying the 
Prince, and thereby gratified thousands of people. " I am not 
sure if I have seen him after all," exclaimed a Chief at Bombay, 
"and I have travelled 600 miles merely to get a look at the 
Shahzadah ! " Another Chief said to the Minister of a Native 
State, " Think what a way I have come to see the Prince ! — 
think what distances we have journeyed, and yet we are only 
permitted to gaze on his face for a moment ! " " Very true," 
replied the Minister, " but just think what a way the Prince has 
come to see you ! " The Wallahjah bridge presented an ex- 
ceedingly interesting appearance. No less than 126 different 
schools and colleges, with a total of 12,500 students and boys 
and girls, including the teachers, were ranged on both sides of 
the elevated stands, each school with its distinctive banners, 
the pupils also wearing badges and dressed all in their best, 
some singing, some non-singing, some mixed-singing. On the 
right, first three Church Schools, the Harris School for the high- 
er classes of Mohammedans ; the Roman Catholic Schools ; 
Doveton College, for the higher classes of Eurasians ; Convent 
Schools ; Free Church Schools ; Scottish Orphanage ; the Lon- 
don Mission Schools ; the Bishop's Schools ; the Church Mis- 
sion Schools for the Hindoo girls and Hindoo boys, among 
which must not be forgotten the Rev. T. Satthianaden's estab- 
lishments. On the left. University Graduates.; Presidency 
Colleges ; Engineering College ; Medical College ; School of 
Arts ; Government Normal School ; the Government Madrissa 
School for Mohammedans alone ; various Church and Asylum 
Schools ; the Director of Music with his trained choir ; Christ 
Church boys ; Military Female Orphan Asylum ; Army girls 
and boys ; the Eurasian girls of the highest classes of the 
Doveton Schools ; Wesleyan Schools ; the three schools of the 
Raja of Vizianagram ; Female Normal Schools ; Church and 
Lutheran Missions ; Church of Scotland ; Wesleyan ; Hindoo 
Proprietary, and two other schools under pure native manage- 
ment, and the school of Dr. Savarimuttu. As the golden um- 



THE MADRAS CHIEFS. 285 

brella came in sight of the Raleigh^ which had just anchored 
outside, she saluted with fine effect. Government House was 
reached at 9 a. m. The ladies of the Duke of Buckingham's 
family, and the members of his staff and suite, were presented 
to the Prince, who introduced his officers and suite to the Gov- 
ernor. Breakfast w^as served in the fine saloon on the first-floor. 
The Prince, having put on full uniform, orders, &c., proceeded 
to the Audience Chamber to receive the private visits of the 
Chiefs, which were conducted in the same way as those paid at 
Bombay, so that no detailed account of them is necessary. Ma- 
dras had few great Rajas to summon, but those she had were of 
an interesting type. 

The name and title of the Maharaja of Travancorc are Sri 
Padmanabha Dasa Vanjee Bala Rama Varma Kulashekara 
Kiritapati Munnee Sultan Maharaj, Raja Rama, Raja Bahadoor 
and Lhamsher Jung, K. G. C. S. I. His Highness is of the 
Kshatryia caste, forty-four years of age (looks nearly sixty) ; in 
addition to Mahratta, Tamil, Hindustani, and Telugu, writes 
and speaks English with fluency ; is a good Sanscrit scholar, 
and much given to literary discussion with- pundits ; is fond of 
music, in which he excels ; is an admirable man of business, 
very punctual and exact ; fond of science, and profoundly attach- 
ed to his own faith. He has a stammer in his speech at times, 
but his manners are easy and agreeable, and his appearance is 
dignified, as becomes one who claims an ancestry that dates 
from 600 A. D. The State covers an area of 6653 square miles, 
and contains a population of 2,310,000 souls. The annual 
subsidy to the British Government, fixed by Treaty, is 81,000/. 
per annum. It is a model Native State, and Sheshia Sastry, 
the present Dewan, a schoolfellow of Sir Madhava Rao, is a 
man of great intelligence and ability. The Prince gratified the 
Raja, who came in great state, by his special attention, and by 
the expression of regret at his -inability to visit his State and 
become his guest at Trivandrum. The Sirdars of each of the 
Chiefs were presented, and offered nuzzurs in the usual man- 
ner. 



286 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

His Hiojhness the Raja of Cochin is a tall stout man of forty. 
He is of the Kshatryia caste, and is descended from a Viceroy 
of the Chola Kings, who ruled in the ninth century. He does 
not speak English, but he is a thorough Sanscrit scholar, and is 
well acquainted with Native literature. The State, which con- 
tains a population of 600,000, and covers an area of 1360 square 
miles, is in subsidiary alliance with the British Government, 
and pays a tribute of 20,000/ a year. 

The Prince of Arcot was also received. There was a time 
when the Nawab of the Carnatic was a personage of no small 
power. The present inheritor of that title, Azim J ah Bahadoor, 
and his father, Ameer Ood-Dowlah Bahadoor, gained the re- 
spect and esteem of all with whom they were brought in contact. 
The family are now living in Madras, fallen from their high es- 
tate, as far as temporal position and power are concerned, but 
certainly secure in the ownership of that which they have left, 
and in the regard of those around them, native and European. 
To show that they were once of some consideration, a small 
pamphlet of official and other papers relative to their genealogy, 
&c., has been published, which included such matters as notes from 
former Governors, asking them to come to breakfast, or acknowl- 
edging a supply of dishes from their table. Ameer Ood-Dowlah, 
in a poem addressed to the Queen, and sent through the hands 
of Sir Charles Trevelyan in June, i860, said of himself : 
"Though I bear that name which means 'Baron <^ wealth,' yet 
am I a suppliant for your favor." Alluding to the Proclamation 
of 1858, he congratulated her Majesty on having assumed the 
administration of the Indian Empire, and ended with the words : 
'* Through the favor of the Most Holy Jesus Christ, may this 
assumption of rule prove auspicious to you ! May your dominions 
last till the resurrection ! " 

More conspicuous than any of these Chiefs by his fine pres- 
ence and face is the Raja of Vizianagram, who is, however, not 
as yet entitled to pay a separate visit to the Prince, and is still 
less entitled to receive one, but who will probably, on account of 
his character, connections, influence, and charities, be raised in. 



VIZIANAGRAM. 28/ 

the native peerage, if we may use the phrase, by a discerning 
Government. He speaks English as well as if he had been born 
and bred in the land, although he has never left India, and for 
all his culture and enlightenment he is too good a Hindoo to 
make it probable that he will come to England unless the Brah- 
mins are unusually liberal. He came frequently to see Sir Bar- 
tie Frere. As I was quartered in the same house, I had frequent 
occasions of speaking to him, and could not but be interested in 
his conversation, which let in a flood of light on the way in 
which natives look at things which to us present aspects utterly 
dissimilar. The subscriptions and useful works to which he 
makes such great contributions are regarded by him as duties 
for which he expects no return or consideration hereafter. His 
religion teaches him, he says, to do these things, and there is 
no merit in doing his duty, but the neglect of it would be a great 
offence. However, if a man does not feel it to be his duty to 
give he cannot be blamed for want of charity. The Raja in- 
dulges in a luxury which was once common enough among the 
great in Christian Europe, he keeps an astrologer; and so one 
morning, as he was speaking of the Pi^ince's arrival at Calcutta, 
he exclaimed*with a sigh, " I shall not be there to see his Royal 
Highness land ! " " Why, may I ask? There is plenty of time 
for you to go round by land and meet him. The Duke of Suther- 
land intends doing so." " Well," replied the Raja very serious- 
ly, '' I have consulted the stars, and there will be no favorable 
day for beginning my journey till the 21st, and then I should be 
too late, but I will arrive in Calcutta in time for some of the 
festivities." (The intention of the Duke of Sutherland to go 
round by land was formed some time ago. He wants to see as 
much of the country as possible, and very naturally objects to 
the loss of time, as far as such an object is concerned, which 
occurs in a voyage by sea.) 

A proof of the desire of the Chiefs to stand well with their 
English friends, and to impress them with a proper idea of their 
dignity, is afforded by the issue of little memoirs relating to 
various Rajas who come to pay their homage and respect to the 



288 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Prince. The Maharaja of Vizianagram, K.C.S.I., claims descent 
from the Ranas of Oodeypoor, the most illustrious Rajpoot 
family in India, whose ancestors conquered Oudh at a very re- 
mote period, and one of whose more recent progenitors, at the 
modest date of 519 a. d., conquered more than two-thirds of the 
present Madras Presidency, and established a dynasty which 
reigned over the land for 921 years. A Chief of Vizianagram 
built the present fort in 17 12, and had great power under Arung- 
zebe. In 1756, when M. Bussy moved into the Circars, the 
Raja joined him with 10,000 men. Bussy and his allies attacked 
a Poligar, who put to death the women and' children, and fought 
till he was killed in the fort. His followers avenged his death 
by murdering the Raja. Next day an old man appeared, leading 
a boy by the hand. "This is the Poligar's son," said he to M. 
Bussy, " whose life I preserved without his father's consent ; " 
whereupon Bussy made the boy, son of the murdered man, the 
Chief. The Raja got tired of the French, drove them out of his 
towns, and made overtures to the English at Madras. Lord 
Clive sent Colonel Ford, in September, 1758, with a considerable 
force, to aid the Chief on a general buccaneering expedition, in 
which it was stipulated that plunder should be equally divided, 
and that conquered countries should be delivered to the Raja, 
who was to collect the revenues, and to pay 50,000 rupees a 
month towards the expenses of the troops. The English obtained 
four of the Circars as the result of their trouble. The following 
year the Chief died without issue, and one of his wives performed 
suttee. His aunt was entrusted with the selection of an heir, 
and chose the second son of her husband's cousin. At this rate 
a genealogy is very easily manufactured. A good deal of trouble 
ensued, and for some time these Chiefs were under a cloud ; 
but latterly, thanks to the personal character of the present 
Maharaja, the influence and position of the house have been in- 
creased. 

A Levee held by the Prince in the Grand Banqueting Hall 
at one o'clock was attended by every European and Native who 
could obtain access or carriage to it. The throng was very 



GUINDY RACES. 289 

great, and the doors were closed before all the gentlemen whose 
names had been received could find their way to the presence. 

A State Banquet of fifty covers, to which the chief personages 
of the City and Presidency of Madras were invited, was given 
by the Duke of Buckingham in honor of the Prince of Wales in 
Government House. The Prince retired after a brief reception 
in the Drawing Rooms, and drove out to Guindy Park, the 
country seat of the Governor, eight miles from Madras, to spend 
to-morrow — the anniversary of his father's death — in seclusion. 
A few only of His Royal Highness' suite accompanied him. 
The park is beautifully wooded and full of game. There was no 
intrusion on the Prince's privacy, and the rest and quiet must 
have been very grateful. 

December 14. — There were no public functions to-day, but 
several of the institutions of Madras were visited by those who 
were not at Guindy, mainly under the guidance of Dr. Balfour. 
The native choultries, poor-houses and places of refuge for aged 
and destitute persons, were exceedingly well worth seeing. 
There were "caste wards," and pariah or no-caste wards, — ref- 
uges for friendless boys and girls,— a hospital for lepers (who 
were terrible to behold), some endowed by the Government, and 
some kept up entirely by individual Chiefs. Thus I saw one 
choultrie belonging to the Raja of Ventnagacherry ; another 
was maintained by subscription ; the charities of the Raja of 
Vizianagram are also conspicuous. The Museum seems much 
appreciated by the Natives, and it was very pleasing to observe 
groups — whole families — going round the rooms, and to hear 
them expatiating in great varieties of speech on what they saw — 
for the voices of the people in conversation generally are low 
and sweet. But what a Babel of languages ! — Uryu, Tamil, 
Telugu, Canarese. Maliar, Talu. The Agri-Horticultural Gar- 
dens are delightful, and abound in forest and vegetable wonders, 
not to speak of an attempt at a menagerie. 

December 15. — There were races at Guindy Park, and the 
Madras world was on the road before 6 a. m. I got up at 5 a. m., 
and had the satisfaction of seeing my friends start for the scene, 
13 19 



290 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

under St. Thomas' Mount, where tradition has it St. Thomas 
Aquinas suffered martyrdom, and of hearing from them all about 
the races when they came back. These are now as obsolete as 
last year's Derby ; but the sporting world of Madras will long 
remember the struggle in the Sandringham steeple-chase, when 
Artaxerxes snatched the prize given by the Maharaja of Jeypoor 
from all the cracks, and when the jockeys ran under the approv- 
ing eye of the Prince of Wales. The natives take very kindly 
to horse-racing, and Rajas gave the five or six cups which were 
run for. The scenes on the course were said to have been very 
amusing. Many of the native spectators perched in trees ; there 
were strange contrasts between the civilization of European 
jockey-caps, jackets, breeches, boots, and spurs, and the turn- 
out of native aspirants, or at least of one who rode a very losing 
race in a huge red turban, white petticoats, and parti-colored 
robes ; between the bustle of very small but fierce jockeys, who 
strode through the crowd of long-legged natives, and waved 
them aside as if they were^ so many rushes ; and the calm of 
great Chiefs, such as the Raja of Cochin, the Prince of Arcot, 
the Raja of Jodhpoor, who were there, attended by numerous 
familiars in all their bravery. The heat was strongly felt before 
the sports terminated. An hour before noon the Prince returned 
to Madras. 

At 3 p. M. the Chancellor, Vice-Chancellor, and Fellows of 
the University, among the latter of whom were several native 
gentlemen, capped and robed, proceeded to Government House 
to present an address from the Senate to the Prince. They 
were received at the entrance and conducted to the Audience 
Chamber. The Commander-in-Chief, the Bishop of Madras, 
and other ex officio members of the Senate were present. The 
address, printed in gold'on vellum, was read by Mr. Innes. It 
gave a sketch of the progress and labors of the University since 
its foundation in 1857. There was rather a despairing admission 
that in the present circumstances of the country the Senate 
could not foresee the period when learning would be pursued 
for its own sake ; but they were satisfied that the other motives 



DEPUTATIONS AND ADDRESSES. 29 1 

\ i iJi induced students to attend would assist in advancing the 
cbj-cts of the University. The Prince in his reply alluded to 
the graduates who were filling some of the higher posts in the 
public service, and congratulated the Senate on its attention to 
the scientific study of the ancient languages and literature of 
India, on its encouragement of pure science, and on the impetus 
it had given to general education. After the Senate retired, a 
deputation of the Freemasons of the Presidency, the district 
Grand Master, officers and members, presented an address, in 
which they expressed their satisfaction at welcoming so distin- 
guished a member of the body at Madras, and gave assurance that 
the craft was flourishing. In reply, the Prince said he would 
convey to the brethren in England the gratifying information 
that Freemasonry, and with it the practice of the charity and 
brotherly feeling which bound the fraternity throughout the 
world, was encouraged in Madras. The Mysore Commission, 
including Mr. Gopauliah, Head Sheristadar, and Mr. Ananda 
Rao, son of Sir Madhava Rao, were introduced, and presented 
an address expressing their regret that the Prince could not 
visit Mysore. The Prince, in reply, assured them that he felt 
very much his inability to see their country, or to go to Banga- 
lore. A picturesque deputation from Coorg,' headed by the 
Assistant-Superintendent, and consisting of Mr. Gunputty, Su- 
badar of Mercava, and two gentlemen in their national costume, 
presented an address and offerings of Coorg knives and dresses, 
which were received, and the Prince entered into a short con- 
versation with the members. A deputation from Coimbatore, 
headed by Mr. Wedderburn, the Collector, Colonel Wilkieson, 
R.E., Venkatachillum Pillay, &c., also presented an address, and 
a handsome volume of views of the places the Prince would 
have seen had he been able to visit their district as he had in- 
tended. The Prince, in reply, said that though he had been 
disappointed, he was glad to think that no risk of health or life 
had been incurred on his account by the inhabitants of the 
country. 

The afternoon was occupied in making return visits. The 



292 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



Prince, who wore the uniform of the loth Hussars, drove to 
Egmore, the residence of the Raja of Cochin, escorted by 
cavalry and attended by members of his suite, at 4.30 p. m. The 
formalities on such occasions do not vary. The personage to 




A NUZZUR AT MADRAS. 



be honored by the Prince sends a deputation of his chief officers 
to escort him to the house, at the entrance to which the Raja or 
Nawab stands to receive his visitor. There is a guard of honor, 
the Queen's colors and band, furnished by a regiment, in this 



THE PRINCESS OF TANJORE. 293 

instance the 13th M. N. I., and an artillery detachment to fire a 
salute. Then a Durbar and presentations, after which the 
interchange of presents ; the be-garlanding and farewell. Three 
of the Princes of the Carnatic and Hyder Jung escorted the 
Prince from Egmore to the residence of the Prince of Arcot in a 
street in the native town where there was a guard of honor, 
band and colors of the 37th M. N. L, a display of the retainers 
of the house, and a band of native musicians. Among the 
presents made by the Prince of Arcot was a sword which had 
once belonged to the Nawab Wallahjah. The third and last 
Chief who received a return visit from his Royal Highness at 
Madras was the Raja of Travancore, whose oiferings were 
curious and valuable. 

The question of return visits is regulated on principles better 
understood by European officials than by Asiatic nobles ; but 
the Prince endeavored to meet the wishes of native dignitaries 
as far as possible, and strained a point to save them chagrin. 
The Princess of Tanjore is a lady belonging to the family of the 
Sivajee (who is spoken of as a mere adventurer ; he was a 
member of a very ancient family), and it created irritation that 
her salute of guns was forgotten in the absorption caused by the 
Prince's arrival ; but en revanche^ her master of the ceremonies 
omitted to make a formal request for permission to visit the 
Prince. It is understood that her Highness is anxious to secure 
the title of Raja for her husband, and nothing that can be said, 
or written, or done, can prevent the people of India, high and 
low, supposing that the Prince possesses unlimited power. 
When the Princess was permitted to visit his Royal Highness, 
she departed from the usages of Mahratta widows, whose custom 
it has been to receive and pay visits without the restrictions 
which she considered necessary. She sat with the ladies of the 
Duke of Buckingham's family in a room, part of which was 
screened off ; into this compartment the Prince was introduced. 
He could put out his hand to be shaken, but he could not see, 
or it was supposed he could not see, the Princess's face. She 
grasped his hand very warmly, and expressed her pleasure at 



294 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

the arrival of the Prince in Madras. Major Henderson, who 
acted as interpreter, knowing the Princess could speak a little 
English, requested her to speak in that language, whereupon, 
with a little laugh, she said, " I am glad to see my Royal 
Brother." Her Highness asked after " The Queen, my Royal 
Sister," in right regal fashion. 

At 4.30 P. M. the Prince laid the memorial foundation-stone 
of the new Harbor works, which will inaugurate a great, and let 
us hope successful, struggle with Nature, -and form a very visible 
and permanent memorial of a visit to which must be ascribed 
the commencement of so many useful works. The Governor 
and the ladies of his family, the Members of Council, the Mili- 
tary: and Civil authorities assisted at the ceremony, which was 
exceedingly well-managed. There were bands, colors, guard of 
honor, troops to line the approaches, and escorts of the Body 
Guard and i6th Lancers. Beyond the benches on which the 
company were seated and the upturned sea of faces, the great 
army of waters was seen hurling the crested heads of its 
columns on the beach, and the roar of its artillery was heard 
amid the smoke of the spray — pregnant comments on the utility 
of the work to be accomplished, if significant, too, of the power 
of the forces to be overcome and of the audacity of the enter- 
prise. The engineers explained the plans to the Prince, and 
the stone was lowered in its place with all proper observance. 
Altogether it was an impressive scene ; and the only persons 
who could have found fault with it, had they known the purport 
of the function, were the catamaran and massoulah boatmen, 
who could be seen from the platform riding on the billows, and 
justifying the mistake of the ancient traveller, who declared that 
he beheld devils playing at single-stick on the coast. Thence, 
as it was getting dark, the cortege drove homewards ; but on the 
way, the Prince intimated a wish to see the famous old Fort St. 
George, which has played such a part in our eventful history in 
India. It rained in torrents, and the visit was rather a surprise 
to the authorities, so that there was more to do than say " Open 
sesame ! " at the doors. Any one acquainted with its story 



FORT ST. GEORGE. 295 

could not find a spot in the wide domains of the Empress more 
full of topics for reflection ; but millions of Englishmen seem to 
think that the Empire is like Topsy, in " Uncle Tom's Cabin," 
and " 'speckt it growed." Our romance of Indian history lies 
concentrated in the days when " furious Frank " and fiery Scot 
and Saxon fought and intrigued for the possession of the 
pagoda-tree. The keys of Pondicherry and of Carnatic fort- 
resses, cannon and arms belonging to Tippoo, famous chiefs 
and ancient poligars, each with its tale, are stored in the Arse- 
nal, which seems well kept. Apropos of Pondicherry, let me 
not forget M. Tillard, the Governor of the French Colonies in 
India, Commissary-General of Marine, who has come to salute 
the Prince, attended by officers af his suite, and has been a 
guest at the entertainments given in his honor by the Governor. 
M. Tillard, like our friends at Goa, has his memories and regrets, 
no doubt ; but he rules a prosperous and well-ordered settle- 
ment, and probably he is personally much happier than if he 
had larger charges. But a Frenchman of to-day may be par- 
doned if he feels indignant at the stupidity of his ancestors, when 
he remembers that the fruits of the victory of de la Bourdonnais, 
the keys of Fort St. George, and the possession of Madras, were 
given back to England by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. The 
Church is full of interesting memorials ; the monument to Lady 
Hobart, recently placed there, which bears an inscription, the 
words of which will find echoes in the hearts of thousands here 
who revere her memory, attracted the Prince's attention. 

There was another State Banquet at Government House, 
which was followed by a reception and by a very successful con- 
cert, at which the Chiefs of Travancore, Vizianagram, the Prince 
of Arcot, and other native gentlemen were present. The Gov- 
ernor has a very good band ; and M. Stradiot, the master, com- 
posed an "Ode of Welcome" to the Prince, which was sung 
very finely by the Madras Philharmonic Society. The band oi 
the 89th Regiment played some favorite pieces. 

December 16. — In addition to the sentries of Government 
House in front, and the usual gathering of scarlet-coated and 



296 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

turbaned servants, there were two lads, with high head-dresses of 
tinsel, and robes of bright red and gold, with bows and arrows in 
their hands. Their faces were decorated with unusual caste 
markings, and with painted mustaches. Their dresses resem- 
bled those in which the Incas are depicted in Kingston's book, 
and there was a vague Mexican impression produced by the char- 
acter of the headgear and robes. Mr. Minchin told me these 
boys belonged to a very ancient race called Uryas, celebrated as 
warriors in former days. It is the custom of the young people, 
when their tasks are done in the evening, to play for the amuse- 
ment of the villagers some part of the great Epic " Ramayanam," 
by Valuniki, which gives the history of the war between Rama 
and Ravana, the Demon King. Rama, exiled by his father, is 
followed to his asylum in the woods by Sita, his wife, and Lech- 
man, his brother. Ravana, King of Lanka (Ceylon), a land of 
demons, seizes Sita, and carries her off, but Rama and Lechman 
rescue her, and destroy the demons and their king. Sita was 
represented by a figure of the size of life, carved with great ele- 
gance from a single wooden block, painted of a color between 
the hue of a Cashmere woman and that of a European. It was 
accepted by the Prince, and sent home to England. This figure 
was placed between Rama and his brother ; on their right was 
the Demon King in a horrible mask. A reciter and musician 
stood behind the group. The performance began by a wailing 
song, to the music of which Rama and Lechman, moving round 
in small circles, kept time with their feet, while the Demon King 
nodded his wooden head in a very quaint fashion. The voices 
of the boys were sweet, and their movements graceful. Whatever 
attractions the play might have for a scholar or for a native au- 
dience, it certainly hung fire after a quarter of an hour or so ; 
and when the performers were told that they might cut the play 
short, a look of surprise, perhaps of chagrin, stole over their 
faces. Next there was a display of jugglery. The performances 
were directed by Ramchandra Rao, Commissary of Police, one 
of the most clever and intelligent officials in the service of the 
State, and at the same time one of the most thoroughgoing 



INDIAN JUGGLERS. 297 

Brahmins in India. There are many men of the kind in India : 
the number is increasing. He gave us an exposition of Hindoo 
doctrine one morning, remarkable for clearness and refinement, 
in which he grappled, if not boldly, at least most ingeniously and 
delicately, with the abstrusest questions. The Indian Juggler 
has no elaborate apparatus. At the utmost he has a withered 
scarecrow to assist in his deceptions, but generally he is alone. 
He is all but naked ; and his whole stock-in-trade consists of a 
stick and a few baskets. He can hide nothing, for he has no 
place to put .anything in. The first juggler, Madhar Sahib, put 
down a small basket. He chattered at it, and lo ! there was an 
egg on the carpet. Then he put the basket over the egg, chat- 
tered at it, turned it over, and out walked a pretty pigeon. Next 
Madhar placed another egg under the basket. After incanta- 
tions, out strutted the first pigeon and another exactly like it. 
Other things did Madhar Sahib, but none so striking, though 
peas under a thimble have before now exercised the finest in- 
tellects, and baffled the greatest ingenuity. Poolee, who came 
next, converted himself into a magazine of horrors ; took live 
scorpions out of his mouth ; spat out stones as large as plums 
and swallowed them ; evolved from internal depths large and 
small nails and string, till there was a pile of his products before 
the Prince. Kamatchee, a strong-limbed, comely young woman, 
began by taking up a handful of earth, which she piled in a heap. 
Into this she stuck two long needles. She then took her right 
big toe in her left hand, twisted her leg over her head, and re- 
peated the feat with her left leg and right hand. Next she stood 
with her heels to the heap, and bending backwards till she could 
put her hands on the ground, brought down her face close to the 
needles, which in the twinkling of an eye were caught up by her 
eyelids ! Syed Khadir and Momee Sawmy-^simple, but, as it 
proved, hard-headed peasants — next made their appearance. 
Their stock-in-trade consisted of cocoa-nuts. Syed took one, 
threw it up ir the air, and, as it fell, met it with the top of his 
naked skull, whereupon the cocoa-nut flew in pieces, scattering 
the milk over the place. Momee did the same. Several nuts 
13* 



2gS The prince oE Wales' tour. 

were thus brought to ruin on their skulls. To my comfort, a 
small relative of these gentlemen picked up the fragments and 
put them in a bag for home use. Valoyoodhum, Syed Cassim, 
and Imam Sahib exhibited their powers as snake charmers. A 
girl twisted a rock snake round her neck, and the little Eve un- 
blushingly demanded baksheesh from the prince. Seven cobras, 
of the largest size, were set dancing within a few inches of the 
legs of the company. The snakes were deprived of their fangs ; 
but of their malice and desire to kill there could be no doubt ; 
they struck again and again at their charmers. Iipam Sahib — a 
more ragged and miserable old creature I never beheld, so that 
growing mangoes does not appear to be a good trade — showed 
that trick better than I have seen it. Vencatamoodoo and Mauree 
did what they pleased with flat metal dishes, and the former was 
a marvel of dexterity, and quite surpassed the grand operator of 
my youth, Ramo Samee, in terrible ease and rapidity, •^'ith 
knives and balls. Ghoodoo performed the basket trick. The 
girl was forced into a shallow basket, Ghoodoo proceeded to in- 
veigh against her as if he were counsel in a divorce case ; finally, 
he thrust a sword through the basket, and pretended to gloat 
over the blood on the blade. But when the eyes of the audience 
were turned on a child, whom Ghoodoo seized and pretended to 
behead, a sharp-eyed lady saw the girl gliding like a shadow out 
of the basket. 

December 17. — The curries of Madras have a reputation all 
over India, and in Madras the Club has the crowning honor and 
glory of being considered the best place for curries. The Com- 
mittee caused an intimation to be made to the Prince that if he 
would be so good as to accept an invitation to lunch, they would 
put forth all their strength to sustain their high renown, and to- 
day was fixed for the tiffin. There were many curries and Indian 
dishes, and those qualified to judge said that all they tasted were 
worthy of the occasion. M. Bonnemain, the chef on board the 
Serapis, was instructed by native cooks in the mysteries ; but 
the French intelligence, fine and keen as it is, does not penetrate 
the depths of curry-lore, and the dishes, even after a considera- 



REVIEW ON THE ISLAND. 299 

ble experience in the arts and sciences of several gentlemen of 
color engaged expressly to dress curries, never came up to the 
Indian standard. There was a Children's Fete in the People's 
Park in the afternoon,- where the Prince had an opportunity of 
seeing in all their finery the many thousands of young people 
who welcomed him on the bridge. An address was presented, 
and a band of children sang " God save the Queen." Altogether 
it was a pretty sight, and as the cortege drove slowly down the 
ranks, the clapping of hands, cries of joy and cheers of the little 
folk in all the tibandon of childish happiness, evinced the pleasure 
they felt at the visit. One could not but feel respect and some- 
thing like compassion for the good men who pass their lives in 
educating these children in the hope, not often realized, that 
some at least will be permanently retained in the fold. From the 
People's Park the Prince drove to the Island, where he was re- 
ceived by the Commander-in-Chief, Sir P. Haines, and his staff. 
He mounted, and, attended by the military members of his suite, 
rode to the line of troops drawn up one side of the parallelogram, 
the other sides of which were lined by a great concourse of peo- 
ple, most of whom had been squatting there for hours. The 
troops at the General Parade were one squadron of the i6th 
Lancers, the Governor's Body Guard, the A and J Batteries, 20th 
Brigade, R.A., H.M.'s 89th Regiment, the Madras Volunteers, 
loth M. N. I., 13th M. N. I and 37th M. N. I. An incident which 
illustrates the difficulties of dealing with those who do not under- 
stand our ways, occurred. The Raja of Vizianagram came on the 
ground as the Royal cavalcade was moving off, and mounted a very 
handsome and showily caparisoned Arab, which was awaiting him. 
He was attired in a scarlet gold,-laced tunic, wore a turban with 
diamond aigrette, a jewelled sword, gold-lace sash, patent leather 
Napoleon boots, and heavy plated spurs, and looked a very gal- 
lant gentleman. Nothing doubting, he dashed off full speed and 
joined the Staff as the Prince turned to ride along the front 
of the line, but he had not been very long in company before an 
intimation was conveyed to him, that not being a military officer 
on duty, or not being specially invited, or something of the kind, 



300 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

he had better retire, and he rode back accordingly, and took up 
his post near the Governor's carriages with an expression of 
mortification and anger on his face which was only too manifest. 
The Raja evidently thought he was quite in the right in riding 
in the Prince's retinue, and it never entered into his head that 
he could be out of place. The march past made the physical 
inferiority of the Sepoys and the advanced age of the native 
officers of the Madras army more conspicuous than they had 
been when we observed the native regiments lining the streets. 
There was another observation — that one of the R. A. Batteries 
had Armstrong guns — the other the new muzzle-loader, but in 
time the former will be placed in store, and there will be, it is to 
be hoped, uniformity in the field artillery in India. When the 
parade was dismissed, the Prince returned to Government House, 
and Ihence drove to the residence of the Commander-in-Ghief, 
whom he honored with his company at dinner. 

About lo p. M. the Prince, attended by Sir C. Staveely, &c., 
drove to the Pier, where the Duke of Buckingham and a great 
concourse had been awaiting his arrival for the great " effect " of 
the Madras week. Seats were placed for the Prince, the Govern- 
or, his family and suite, &c., out of the reach of the spray. Men 
will never see any spectacle more strange — nay, awful — than the 
''illumination of the surf." Neither pen nor pencil can give any 
idea of it. It was exciting, grand, weird and beautiful. As if to 
render homage to the occasion, the wind rose in the course of the 
day, the surf was high — enormous curling breakers ran between 
the base-pillars of the pier. The moonlight revealed now and 
then dark objects rising and falling on the billows, between the 
outer darkness of the horizon, against which the hulls and rig- 
ging of the Serapis, Osborne, diXid Raleigh, lighted up with lanterns, 
stood out in relief, and the breakers on the beach. These were 
massoulah boats and catamarans lying off in the rollers till the 
time came for setting fire to the lights, which were to burn in, and 
to illuminate the water. The buildings, transparencies, and 
triumphal arches, above which rose steeples, domes, and columns 
brilliantly illuminated, formed the background along the beach. 



THE ILLUMINATION OF THE SURF. 3OI 

Southwards, where the rollers swept up to the roadway, rows of 
natives, facing seawards, with blazing torches and blue lights 
lighted up an ocean of white turbans. First there were fireworks. 
The Osborne and Serapis^ emitting volumes of colored flames, 
vied with each other in all kinds of pyrotechny. It seemed as if 
volcanoes were bursting up from the deep. In a grand discharge 
from the Raleigh there were 190 colored rockets. Presently ap- 
peared from afar seawards many flames, dipping and rolling amid 
the waves, drifting landwards like fire-ships. These multiplied. 
Occasionally lights flashed right through the rollers from the other 
side. Suddenly the lines of black massoulah boats and cata- 
marans from the beach dashed into the surf like a squadron of 
cavalry. With the wildest yells they charged, the serried ranks of 
the foam-crested breakers. Amid a sea now black as ink, now 
like glistening jet, now creaming in surf, the catamaran men con- 
tended with waves, which seemed to be mounds of flame. 
Sometimes they were swept off, and disappeared beneath the bil- 
lows, or were seen swimming in the mad turmoil. There was an 
agonizing suspense till they regained their craft, or striking out 
with strong arms, were borne in on the surf, and landed safe on 
the beaclx The massoulah boats, swept from stem to stern by 
the breaker^, forced their way out over the rollers to the smoother 
sea, only to return, at full speed, and engage with wild emulation 
in still more animated contests. The hardy fellows, watching 
their opportunity, by tremendous efforts kept their boats on top 
of the wave, and, covered with foam, were borne past the pier 
with wonderful velocity to the beach, yet always emerged safely 
from the surf. 

When that extraordinary scene was over, it was long past 11 
p. M., and there was yet another function, and a heavy one to 
boot — a visit to the Native Entertainment, the scene of which 
was the immense Railway Station at Roypooram, which had 
been converted since the Prince's arrival into a vast theatre, 
nearly 800 feet long and 250 feet wide, decorated with great 
splendor and richness. An elevated platform covered with 
scarlet cloth and tiers of benches was reserved for the guests 



302 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

and Chiefs, and in the centre were gilt chairs for the Prince, 
the Governor and the ladies of his family, the authorities and 
the Europeans. The hour fixed in the programme was lo p. m., 
and it was midnight when the Prince entered. Many thousands 
of people, Europeans and Asiatics, — the latter of course, many 
hundreds to one of the former, — filled the place. On the entry 
of the Prince, which was announced by music and cannon, all 
the multitude stood up, 

" Their rising all at once was as the sound 
Of thunder heard remote." 

When the Prince and the brilliant cornpany were seated, a 
deputation of native gentlemen advanced to the platform, and, 
mounting to the dais, presented an address, .which was read by 
the Chairman, in which they expressed the gratification of the 
native community at the great honor conferred on them by the 
Prince's presence at their entertainment, and requested his 
acceptance of the exquisite gold casket, on the top of which was 
a finely worked tiger, which was placed on a velvet cushion on a 
small table in front of his chair. Whilst the address was being 
read and the Prince was replying, there was time to look about 
one. A square platfwm stood in the body of the hall, nearly at 
the level of the Royal seat ; in the centre there was a gilt pole 
with colored cordons, like ropes of artificial flowers, from the top. 
From this platform there was a gangway to a stage, whereon 
were seated the dancing girls and musicians — the former dressed 
in the richest and heaviest robes of kincob, and stuffs of the 
brightest colors descending from the throat to the ankles, and 
leaving exposed only the arms, which could scarcely be called 
bare, as from shoulder to finger-tip these ladies wore armlets, 
bracelets, and rings, — and, moreover had, in their noses and their 
ears sparkling diamonds, — and, set with yellow flowers in their 
thick, coarse, black hair, more diamonds, and on their toes rings of 
precious stones. Just beneath the droop of their crimson or 
scarlet satin trousers were revealed the sparkling anklets and 
bangles, which kept time to their movements and to the click of 



A NATIVE ENTERTAINMENT. 303 

the castanets, with a sharp metallic tingle as they danced. Each 
lady wore a scarf or shawl, in which she muffled herself up as 
she sat on the ground till her turn came to dance, when it was 
called into action and made to play an important part, being held 
over the head with extended arms, or thrown wide aside, or 
closely gathered round the figure in unison with the sentiment to 
be conveyed by the dance. These were brought under the 
ordeal of most powerful lime-lights, which threw an intense 
white glare on the vast sea of turbans and faces, the uniforms 
and pale features of the Europeans, and caused the jewels of the 
Rajas and Nawabs on the platform to dazzle one's eyes, and the 
enormous chandeliers suspended from the ceiling to pale their 
ineffectual fires. The Kolattam, which opened the entertainment, 
was simply such a dance as one has seen at stage representa- 
tions of May-pole dances and merrymaking. The nautch girls 
advanced, each took one of the cords, and then they danced in 
and out and round the pole and each other till they had wound 
themselves into a nosegay looking knot, and then they unwound 
themselves — this too often perhaps for the perfect enjoyment of 
those who had done so much in the daytime and who were now 
sitting into the small hours. The great feature of the entertain- 
ment was the performance of the famous danseuse Gnyana for 
whose services 700/.,' — probably 70/,, — or perhaps the former sum 
for all the dancers and musicians, — was paid. The little woman, 
rather pretty and confident, executed a very long "piece " with her 
feet to the music of the native implements and to the accompan- 
iment of an intermittent chorus, aided by conch shells and solos, 
and at times illustrated by her own voice ; and as the dance 
appeared to give exquisite pleasure to every ninety people out of 
the hundred who looked at it there would be presumption and 
insular arrogance and prejudice — probably ignorance of the true 
principles of art-combinations of music, song and dancing — if 
one were to say that the performance seemed monotonous and 
exceedingly destitute of variety. When the player on the vina 
had fairly embarked on the solo, which was to be the musical 
gem of the evening or morning, it became evident that the en- 



304 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

joyment of the entertainment by the principal person had been 
sufficient, and he rose to go to the supper-room for a few moments, 
whence he emerged to drive back to Government House, leaving 
the native drama, in four acts, to be seen by those who were de- 
termined to see, and the songs by celebrated artistes, and the 
concerted pieces on the vina, dol, and zither saranthe, to be heard 
by those who pleased to stay. 

December i8- — A meet of the Madras pack at Guindy tested 
the sporting energies of the weaker sort to fracture ; but the 
Prince, who did not get to bed till nearly 2 a. m., was up and away 
at 6 A. M. QucB regio in terris ? — Here is Squires, whom men and 
dogs have obeyed at the Pytchley, and who is known to the 
followers of the West Norfolk — who has led the Austro-Hunga- 
rian chivalry after the Esterhazy foxhounds, and has wound his 
horn by the side of Russian covers — installed as huntsman of 
the Madras pack, recognized by the Prince, and by more than 
one member of the field — -/.odsL yaiwj\ Several of " the follow- 
ing " had "incidents," but the ground was soft; there were 
adventures by flood and field, broken curb-chains, broken stirrup- 
leathers, and " staggers " — the latter confined to horses. There 
was, however, a fine run — said to be nine miles — and a kill at the 
end. The Prince enjoyed the morning's sport exceedingly. The 
party returned " hungry as fox " (or jackal) '^ hunters " to Madras. 
After lunch, the party inspected the native presents, which were 
laid out in a tent in the compound ; and it is only to be regretted 
that there could not have been a similar exposition of the gifts 
made in return by the Prince. 

Among many interesting offerings to the Prince at Madras 
must be specially mentioned an account of the Danish Protestant 
Mission, Tranquebar, by the Rev. C. E. Kennet, with an auto- 
graph letter of George I. (December 22, 17 19 — January 3, 1720) 
from St. James's addressed to " Bartholomaeo Ziegenbalg and 
Johann Ernest Groundler, Missionaries, Tranquebar," offered by 
the Rev. I. Schwarz, of the Lutheran Mission, Tranquebar, for 
the acceptance of his Royal Highness. The Princess of Wales 
would, no doubt, be glad to learn that in this distant land her 



DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS. * 305 

own countrymen could tell her husband that Denmark was the 
first Protestant country which (in the reign of Frederick IV., in 
1705) sent out a mission for the evangelization of India. The 
Zeigenbalg, who is named above, visited England on his return 
from India in 17 14, and the Prince and Princess of Wales of the 
day received him most courteously and promised him every 
help. 

There was much to be done in a very short time, for this was 
our parting day. The windows and the verandas of the houses 
and offices were filled — the roofs were covered thickly by people. 
The patient Asiatics congregated at various points along the 
route ; but certainly there was not one-half the number of those 
who attended on the day of the entry. A well-bred Native gen- 
tleman explained the fact. " There are," he said, '' so many 
thousands sorry for the Prince's leaving that they cannot bear to 
see it, and so stay away." There was no cheering, except from 
Europeans ; no clapping of hands, but an attitude of profound 
respect — " a silence which had in it something of reverence, 
such as that which prevails in a place of worship." At the plat- 
form at the end of the pier tramway, the Native officers were 
presented to his Royal Highness. To those specially men- 
tioned the Prince said a few gracious words. No one who 
glanced at the faces of these gentlemen — many of them gray- 
haired soldiers — could doubt that the Asiatic delights in a 
tangible, visible representation of royalty, and that " veneration " 
is one of the most pronounced characteristics of his nature. 
Their bearing was charged, so to speak, with submissiveness. 
At the landing-stairs many hundreds of Europeans, ladies and 
gentlemen, assembled, but the Chiefs remained at the place 
whence the car started. There was a guard of honor, &c., of 
the 89th Regiment opposite the stairs. The massoulah boats 
were rising and falling more vivaciously than was pleasant at 
the foot of the steps. A flotilla of catamarans, each with a flag- 
staff and flag, lay beyond them. 

The Prince remained a few moments on the landing-stage, 
while the suite cast uneasy looks on the waves which ran be- 

20 



306 • THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

tween the uprights of the pier. He bade the members of the 
Governor's family and the ladies and gentlemen with whom he 
was acquainted farewell, going round and shaking hands with his 
personal friends. At last came the moment to leave, and as the' 
Prince stepped down the ladder to the massoulah boat, the whole 
company stood up. A great clamor of " sounds, like breakers 
in a dream " arose, blessing the Prince and his journey. Watch- 
ing the rise and fall, he stepped on board the massoulah boat at 
the first attempt. The Royal Standard was hoisted in the bow, 
and as the boatmen uttered the first notes of the chant with 
which they kept time to the beat of their paddles, the crowd 
cheered, and waved hats and handkerchiefs. There were four 
large massoulah boats for the Prince and his suite, and they 
formed line, heading towards the Serapis, which with yards 
manned, was waiting for her illustrious passenger. A double 
line of catamaran-men escorted the Royal barge. These mermen 
have been often described ; but no one who has not seen them 
can form the smallest idea of their skill and daring in a seaway. 
FamiUarity has bred in them contempt for the dangers of the 
sea. They sit bolt upright on their heels, so that the thigh and 
the leg are one above the other, like the limbs of a parallel 
ruler. Thus seated, they are as firm in their places on the 
narrow plank of wood on which they float above and through 
the water, as if they were nailed to the catamaran, and work the 
uncouth pieces of board which they use as paddles with the 
greatest freedom and security. It . was feared there would be 
some trouble in boarding. Captain Glyn ordered a spring to be 
put on the cable, so as to bring the ship across the run of the 
sea and make a fair lee, and the " chair," which was in readiness 
to hoist up the Prince, was not required. The moment his 
Royal Highness left the boat the standard at her bow was 
lowered, and in another instant the guns of the Raleigh were 
duly honoring the Royal flag which floated from the main of the 
Serapis. 

May it be said that the Prince was sorry to leave Madras ? 
It certainly would be true j and although there has been no lack 



DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS 30/ 

of courtesy and kindness to be spoken of in all this Eastern 
land, it would be only just to say that the welcome of the Duke 
of Buckingham and the reception given by Madras must remain 
for ever among the most pleasant memories of the Prince's tour. 
In Government House there was a combination of the charms 
of English family life with the state of an Oriental satrap ; but 
the former so far predominated, thanks to the presence of the 
gracious ladies, who did the honors of the Duke of Buckingham's 
house with such kindness, that one felt, in spite of strange sur- 
roundings, as though he were "at home." Surely it would be 
advisable, as a means of breaking down the barriers of caste and 
custom, to appoint to high places in India those who have 
around them the gentler agencies which in every civilized 
country exercise such an influence on society? There are 
sacrifices, no doubt, — there are too many instances of them, — but 
it is a great work to be accomplished. The Prince expressed his 
sense of the Governor's efforts to render his 'visit to Madras 
agreeable and profitable in the warmest terms. 

At 5.30 P.M. the Ser apis got her anchor and proceeded north- 
wards for the Hooghly, the Raleigh and Osborne being astern, 
starboard and port respectively. The sun was fast sinking 
behind Fort St. George, but its rays still struck the colored fronts 
and roofs of houses facing westwards, and the domes and 
steeples of the city ; touched the salient points of the long fagade 
broken by colonnades and porticos, presented by the sea front, 
and cast a magic light on the landscape in the background, 
which melted away amid masses of wood into faint mountain 
outlines. Venice never looked more beautiful than Madras did, 
as the long line of buildings, which rise above the surf, the 
fluttering flags, and the vast crowds on shore appeared to retire 
from the Ser apis. The ever-changing hues of the flying spray 
threw a many-colored veil over the barrier of human heads, with 
faces still turned seawards. If the beach of Brighton, from 
Hove to the West Cliff, under like conditions of sea, sun, and 
sky, were covered by white turbans and dark skins, there would 
be some resemblance to the sight that Madras presented ; fof 



308 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



there are no minarets, mosques, or Hindoo temples, to detract 
from the European look of the place ; and whether it be that the 
general impression of the situation and architecture of the pier 
recalls the Steyne and London-by-the-Sea, there is certainly a 
suggestion about Madras of a Brighton, without east winds, or 
fogs, or wintry vapors. 



f ^"fT "^ 




DEAD GAME. 




THE PRINCE AND BEGUM OF BHOPAL. 



CHAPTER IX. 



CALCUTTA. 



From Madras to Calcutta — The " James and Mary " Shoals — The Hooghly 
— Landing at Calcutta — Government House — Private Visits — Ceremo- 
nies — Christmas Day — Chandernagore — Reception of Chiefs at Chandal 
— Return Visits — Tent pegging — The Star of India — The Procession of 
the Order — The Ceremony — The " Awful " Benefit Night — The Zenana. 

December 19 {Sunday). — The weather at sea was all that 
could be desired. The thermometer marked only 78°. The 
wind light and fine, the squadron running through a smooth sea 
at the rate of eleven knots an hour. Divine service was per- 
formed at II A. M. on the quarter-deck, by the Rev. Canon Duck- 
worth and the Rev. Mr. York, chaplain. The Prince, Admiral 
Macdonald, members of the suite, and the ships' officers and 
company present. At noon our position was lat. 15° 6' n., long. 
89° 16' E., distance made good from Madras, 166 miles ; dis- 

309 



3IO ■ THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

tance to Light-ship Sand Heads, 492 miles, so that we shall be 
in before our time, as the Serapis will be at the Sand Heads at 
noon on Tuesday, and will then be only 105 miles from Calcutta, 
where she could arrive on the 2 2d, if all went well. In the 
afternoon the wind became a little more positive, and blew right 
ahead, which increased the draught in the furnaces, and we had 
plenty of steam. This great Bay of Bengal, so terrible in mon- 
soons and so vexed by cyclones, was tranquil as a Highland tarn 
— not a sail was visible, nor were there fishes or birds to be seen. 
The Raleigh is always a fine object to look at — symmetry (in 
spite of her stern, which " hangs " in the water), strength, power 
and speed, seem to be happily combined in her. She fills the 
mind with a satisfying idea of a man-of-war. We lose her at the 
entrance to the river, and proceed with the ever-faithful Osborne. 
That pretty fine-weather yacht has proved a great success. In- 
tended only for Channel service and Royal journeys in short sea- 
passages, she has turned out to be an ocean-going steamer, capa- 
ble of holding her own in the stiffest breezes and most disagree- 
able seas, though to say she does not roll and is not wet under 
such circumstances " were base flattery." 

December 20. — At 2 a. m. the spring of the cylinder gave 
way, and one hour and a quarter were spent in repairing damages. 
The stopping of the screw woke the sleepers in hammock and 
berth instantly. Even Lord C. Beresford, whose marine assu- 
rance in such matters is n6t easily disturbed, was heard to utter 
a dreamy order to Tom Fat to " see what the row was about." 
Continued all well. A dead calm. At noon, observations gave 
lat. 17'^ 44', long. 84^ 47'; distance run 213 miles. Distance 
from the Light-vessel in the Eastern Channel of the Sand Heads, 
279 miles. The current (n. 43' e.) set the ship seven miles out 
of her course. There was consequently a considerable discrep- 
ancy between the dead reckoning and the observed position. 
The ship was trimmed, 350 tons of water pumped in, and chain 
cables, &c., transferred, to deepen her astern. To-morrow will 
be the last day, and will also give us the lowest, of the neap 
tides, and there are the " James and Mary " shoals, full of terrors 



THE "JAMES AND MARY SHOALS. 3II 

for Captain Glyn and all stout mariners, who know that it is 
really a case of " touch and go " for a ship which runs into their 
dangerous embrace. After dinner Mr. Smith Dorrien's company 
gave a musical and dramatic entertainment, which was more than 
usually lively and successful ; and at the close, invitations were 
given by the ward-room officers, which were accepted by the 
Prince and some of his suite. 

December 21. — Not a ripple on the water. Lat. 20*^ 28', 
long. 87^ 38'. Distance made good at noo'n, 245 miles. The 
Light-vessel in the Eastern Channel off the Sand Heads, 2>Z 
miles distant. A N. e. current set us 16 miles out of our course. 
At 2 p. M. the Light-ship was sighted, and at 3 p. m. the Serapis 
was alongside it. Two trim-looking pilot brigs, belonging to the 
excellent service of the Hooghly Pilotage, were bearing down 
upon us ; and when the Serapis anchored, Mr. Daly and Mr. 
Baker, two officers of the department, came on board. They 
informed Captain Glyn that he could not cross the bar to go up 
to Saugor till to-morrow (Wednesday). This was not pleasant 
intelligence. Of all places in the world where one would like to 
anchor the Sand Heads is, to put the subject in the most favor- 
able point of view, perhaps that which he would select the last. 
As the Raleigh drew too much water to go up the river at low 
tides, it was considered better to send her back ; and she was 
accordingly ordered to go round to Bombay. Captain Tryon 
came on board to pay his respects to the Prince, and take leave. 
His Royal Highness presented Captain Tryon with fine portraits 
of the Princess of Wales and of himself, and with other souvenirs. 
The two ships parted company under the friendly fire of tremen- 
dous cheers from the crews. After a little council on the bridge, 
the Prince expressed a desire to proceed onwards towards Sau- 
gor Island. Captain Glyn gave the necessary orders. The 
Serapis weighed, and crept up with- sedulous lead-going, till she 
found it was very dark above and " soft and near" below, and 
we anchored for the night. A small steamer was despatched 
ahead to take letters to post on shore. 

December 22. — Weighed at 6.5 a.m. Passing Saugor Light- 



312 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

House, at 9 a. m. Anchored off " Mud Point "at 11 a. m. A 
very dreary prospect. Practised rifle shooting at buoys and 
floating marks '' because there was nothing else to do." From 
the time the Sand Heads Light was sighted we have passed 
nearly two days in these muddy waters — and at one time there 
was only six inches of water between our keel and the mud. 
Sir R. Temple, two of his officers, and General S. Browne, came 
on board from the Rhotas just as it was becoming dark, and after 
an interview with his Royal Highness, returned to their floating 
mansion. Lieutenant-Colonel Parnell, Captain Durrant, Mr. 
Prinsep, Lieutenant Clifford, and Lieutenant Gough, were invi- 
ted to dinner from the Osborne. 

Dece7nber 23. — The Serapis was ready to start at daybreak, 
but she did not weigh anchor till past 7 a.m., and had some 
little difficulty in turning in the narrow channel. Messrs. Day 
and Falle of the Harbor department came onboard, and we pro- 
ceeded with the flood-tide up the great river which, but for the 
cocoa-nut-palms, mangoes, and bamboos on the flat shores, would 
remind one of the Elbe, or the lower reaches of the Rhine, — nay, 
of our own Thames at its widest, — till we had mounted into nar- 
rower waters, where the deeper channels enabled the vessel to 
approach the banks. There were crowds wherever there were 
villages, and discharges of arms and fireworks indicated the 
desire of the natives and of the local authorities to render them- 
selves agreeable and to do honor to the Prince. After break- 
fast, his Royal Highness put on his uniform and went on the 
bridge, where he remained observing with keen interest the 
rapidly increasing tokens of our approach to the great city — the 
larger and more frequent villages, the detached bungalows, 
factory chimneys, fishing and trading boats, merchantmen 
anchored in the stream, and passing steamers filled with people. 
There was no necessity for observations, but the steering needed 
close attention. The channels shift and change in a wonderful 
manner — " Here to-day, gone to-morrow." At noon there was a 
general parade of all officers. In an hour the masts of the ves- 
sels anchored below Garden Reach came in sight, and the ships 



THE HOOGHLY. 313 

of war dressed in flags. At i o'clock, the Immortalite, Doris, 
and Newcastle saluted. The sailors manning the yards of the 
men-of-war were dressed in blue ; signal was made for them to 
change to white. By the time the Prince was alongside the ves- 
sels, the crews were all in apple-pie order. They saluted, cheer 
after cheer. As the Prince was passing the gardens of the resi- 
dences of the King of Oudh, the retainers of his ex-Majesty lined 
the bank, and stood in crowds on the tops of the houses within, 
in the enclosure, and in the verandas, but they did not make 
any sign of welcome. The Serapis passed by the great banks 
of shipping, which lay below Fort William three or four deep, 
the decks and rigging crowded with people, who cheered vocifer- 
ously. The guns of Fort William thundered, the batteries on 
shore re-echoed the sound. From the deck could be seen the 
countless multitudes on the Maidan, and the lines of the troops 
drawn up from Fort William to the Government House, and the 
galaxy of Chiefs and ladies, and the splendor of the official- and 
military uniforms on shore. 

When the Serapis anchored. Colonel Dillon came off to take 
the Prince's pleasure as to when Lord Napier of Magdala should 
pay his respects. The Duke of Sutherland, the aides-de-camp 
of the Governor-General, Bubbur Jung — the son of Sir Jung 
Bahadoor, attached to the Prince as aide-de-camp, in a uniform 
like that of : an English officer with the exception of the head- 
dress, which was a kind of morion, or skull cap, with a plume of 
bird-of-paradise feathers, and an aigrette of brilliants and emer- 
alds — and many others boarded the Serapis, and a grand array 
of eminent persons, military and civil, of the Indian hierarchy, 
all in full uniform, congregated on her decks, which presented a 
viery animated and brilliant appearance. They were received 
by the Prince very graciously, and many old friends met now 
after years of separation. The news that Lord Hastings had 
died of fever contracted on a shooting expedition on the West- 
ern Coast was heard with infinite regret and surprise. 

When all had been properly ordered for his reception on 
board, the Governor-General and Viceroy put off from shore to 
14 



314 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

welcome his Royal guest, and once more the fleet, the forts, 
and the artillery thundered. Lord Northbrook came in full 
state, with all his suite and* staff, and was ceremoniously con- 
ducted by the officers and equerries of the Prince to the saloon. 
The meeting between the Viceroy and the Prince was of a very 
cordial character, and after a pleasant conversation apart, and 
the usual presentations, the Viceroy and his officers returned to 
shore in state, and took their places in the very grand Reception 
Hall which had been erected on the muddy margin of Prinsep's 
Ghaut. They were followed at 4.30 p. m., the appointed time, 
by the Prince, whose arrival was awaited with indescribable 
anxiety by the magnificent multitude, although they knew that 
he would not land before the hour set down in the programme. 
They were luxuriously seated in tiers of seats ranged by the 
sides of two pavilions draped in scarlet, the roofs of which were 
upborne by white and gold pillars, wreathed with garlands, roses, 
and green chaplets. In the space between the pavilions or 
canopies, there were many couches, fanteuils, and arm-chairs for 
the great natives invited to assist at the reception. Flags, ban- 
ners, and flowers decorated the walls, and were suspended from 
the sides and covering of the pavilions, and beyond there was 
one very loftly and massive arch of triumph, with the word 
"Welcome ! " A scarlet carpet of great richness was laid in the 
platform, and the landing-stage and platform were covered with 
red cloth, and handsomely ornamented. The whole of the per- 
sonnel of the vast administration of the seat of empire was there. 
As to the crowds of Rajas, Chiefs^ and authorities of all kinds, 
it is only necessary to say they were even larger than those at 
Bombay. 

I shall not attempt any description of the entrance of the 
Prince into Calcutta, or of the procession from the landing-place 
to Government House, for such pageants are singularly alike. 
It gradually grows on one amid all the congregations of men in 
power, the actual rulers of the land, that the native leaders 
have a w^eight and dignity which are but little understood at 
home. They are growing upon us even though they only come 



GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 315 

at first like the magnificent supernumeraries of a theatrical spec- 
tacle, who appear to lend a glitter and give a picturesque effect 
to the homelier but more potent characters of the piece. When 
these ceremonies are over they disappear from our gaze, but we 
know that they are active behind the scenes. They remain 
whilst the great actors are changing their parts, and they are still 
engaged when the stars have at last retired altogether from the 
boards. The Prince's welcome was not comparable in noise 
and in the excitement and variety and picturesqueness of the 
multitude to that of Bombay, but it was, perhaps, more dignified, 
by reason of its metropolitan attributes. The same result has 
occurred here as elsewhere. The " people " turned out in myr- 
iads to see the Shahzadah. Immense satisfaction is felt at 
this flesh and blood presentment of Royalty — a peculiar want 
of human nature has been gratified by the Prince's avatar. 
The arrangements for the landing and procession, if rather 
simple, were very good indeed ; but I fear it would not interest 
my readers to learn more than that fact, although it cost many 
weeks' anxious thought and preparation to make them so per- 
fect, and the officers who left the Prince at Bombay have been 
engaged ever since in getting all things in order— looking after 
suspects^ carriages, horses, tents, servants — and doing everything 
that could be done, to insure the success of the Royal visit to 
the chief seat of the Government. The Prince was much grati- 
fied at all that had been effected, and seemed surprised at the 
grand appearance of Government House and at the splendor 
of the Viceregal state. The principal members of the suite 
were provided with^quarters in the house, but on the open lawn 
in front of it a camp was pitched for the others, who could 
scarcely be termed less fortunate, inasmuch as they were lodged 
most comfortably. 

The banquet given by Lord Northbrook in honor of the 
Prince was in all respects worthy of the occasion, and such as 
could not be accommodated with seats at table in consequence 
of the great number of official persons who could not be omitted, 
were overwhelmed with invitations to dinner by hospitable 



3l6 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

residents. The lights in the houses, the hum of voices, the stir 
in the streets, showed how deeply the great city was moved by 
the event which had been so long looked forward to. 

Calcutta, December 24. — The reception of the great Chiefs 
by the Prince at Government House to-day, although accounted 
" private," was a very stately ceremonial, conducted with much 
official pomp and care. The grandiose creation of Lord Welles- 
ley, designed by Mr. Wyatt, one such as no Governor-General 
would dream of constructing now (it cost 150,000/.), lends itself 
well to such an occasion. It occupies a fine site, and has an 
imposing elevation and approaches. It is grand, but not solid. 
The noble portico is gained by a flight of upwards of thirty steps 
from the carriage drive ; thence the vestibule gives on a magnif- 
icent hall, divided into centre and aisles by two rows each of 
twelve massive columns. The walls of the rooms and the pillars 
are covered with layers of the peculiar Indian cement, called 
chunam, which, when well polished, is whiter than the finest 
marble, the ceilings are beautifully decorated. The floors are of 
marble. 

In the carriage sweep in iront of the flight of steps at the 
portico were placed a guard of honor, the band and colors 
of the 19th Regiment. On the broad landing at the top of the 
steps the Viceroy's Band was stationed in front of the portico ; 
mace-bearers, or chobdars, in scarlet and gold liveries, guarded 
the entrances. Between each pair of columns in the Hall stood, 
sword in hand, a gigantic trooper of the Viceroy's Body Guard, 
in scarlet and gold tunic, cummerbund of the same, quaint 
Zebra-striped turban, buckskin breeches, and jack-boots. Ad- 
vancing between the columns up the centre of the hall, the 
visitor sees the Throne in an inner room, running at right angles 
to the hall, placed exactly opposite the entrance. Mace-bearers 
and janitors, in the handsome liveries of the Governor-General, 
bearing chotas and silver maces, were stationed at the entrance 
of the rooms and inside the Throne-room. Very good portraits 
(full-length) of George III. and Queen Caroline adorn the wall 
at each side of the Throne. On the wall, over a sofa in a kind 



PRIVATE VISITS. 31/ 

of ante-chamber, whence a door leads to the rooms of the 
Prince's suite, is a full-length portrait of " Major-General the 
Hon, Arthur Wellesley, 1803" — an unmistakable likeness as to 
the face, but not equally accurate, it is to be hoped, as to the 
legs, which are very feeble. At the end, facing Wellington, is 
an abominable painting of the Queen in her robes, by Sir George 
Hayter. The Throne-room at one end has a row of columns 
forming a recess. The Prince's suite, in full uniform, stood in 
line in the Throne-room, on the right of the entrance. It has 
been observed that the Prince does not sit on any of the numer- 
ous thrones prepared for him, or avoids doing so as much as he 
can. • 

At 10.30 A. M. the approach of the Maharaja of Puttiala was 
announced by the regulation salute. Puttiala was not one of the 
finest of the Chiefs by any means, and yet he was, as a friend of 
mine said, " like a flash of lightning through Storr and Morti- 
mer's." He is son of a man who did England good service by 
keeping the road between Delhi and the Punjaub clear, and help- 
ing us in a most substantial fashion, when it was of vital impor- 
tance. He is rather a fine-looking man, about thirty years of 
age, with a melancholy, anxious face. As he was led tenderly 
along the o^ter hall by Major Henderson, his eye rested on the 
empty throne with a puzzled expression ; but he looked pleased 
when he saw the Prince, who had been hitherto hidden by the 
columns, waiting to receive him in the inner room. The Maha- 
raja made a very low but dignified salaam. The Prince took 
his hand, and led him to the sofa at the feet of the picture of 
Wellington, where he sat with the Maharaja on his left, the Po- 
fitical Officer (Tupper) next, to interpret. The conversation, 
which lasted eight or ten minutes, seemed to interest the Maha- 
raja greatly ; and he was delighted when the Prince referred to the 
services of Puttiala in 1857. The Maharaja was evidently in 
very good humor when he was led back to the end of the car- 
pet* 

* Before the Prince reached England he received, with great regret, the 
news of the untimely death of the Maharaja in the prime of life. 



3i8 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



Scarcely had the clatter of Puttiala's horse-hoofs died away 
ere the guns announced the Maharaja Holkar of Indore, G. C. S. 
I. His Highness is a very tall man, with developments such 
as were attributed to Aldermen before they took to volunteering 
and athletic exerciseSo Conducted by Major Henderson and 
the Political Agent (Maitland)^ he came into the Throne-room, 
rolling from side to side, and just touching his forehead slightly 




AFTER THE AUDIENCE. 

to the suite in a very regal manner. Holkar is very proud and 
punctilious, and there have been difficulties about his prece- 
dence, so great, that the arrangements for a meeting with other 
Chiefs were attended with trouble. A certain interest is attach- 
ed to Holkar, because, if report be true, he has five million 
sterling stored up for a rainy, or let us say, as we are in India, 
for a dry day. His two sons and his clever Dewan, Ragonath 



JEYPOOR AND CASHMERE. 3I9 

Rao (nephew of Sir Madhava Rao), and a train of Sirdars 
took their seats with the suite. It is said the Maharaja is de- 
sirous of some part of Kandeish ; but he is clever enough to be 
aware that the Prince cannot interfere. He received the gold 
medal and riband which is given by the Prince to the great 
Chiefs, introduced his sons and Sirdars, and left with a cheerful 
countenance. The Maliaraja of Jodhpoor — a most picturesque- 
looking Chief, followed by a splendid Sirdaree — came next. A 
very bright, keen eye, and black, bristling whiskers, mustache, 
and beard, brushed upwards, gave him, at first sight, a fierce 
look, of which the sad, proud aspect of his small, well-cut fea- 
tures, changed the character on closer scrutiny. But proud he is 
beyond the pride of the proudest. It is related of him that at a 
Durbar, when chairs were placed for himself, the Maharaja of 
Odeypoor, and another Chief, he exclaimed, "Let Odeypoor 
take which seat he pleases : I shall sit above him ! " What 
wealth of gems glittered all over his neck and breast I cannot, de- 
scribe. The many-folded petticoats, like an Albanian fustanelle, 
worn by the Maharaja, descended nearly to his heels, and remind- 
ed one of the robes of the dancing dervishes. The petticoats 
were looped up by a roll of cloth of gold, forming a thick circular 
girdle, which hung from the waist and gathered his dress in be- 
hind below the knees. His bright yellow turban was bound 
round his brow by a band of cloth of gold, and displayed an 
aigrette of diamonds and rubies of great beauty. His Sirdars 
were attired in a similar way, and seemed to be very pleasant, 
agreeable gentlemen. 

The Maharaja of Jeypoor drove up in a handsome carriage, 
drawn by four white horses, covered with trappings of cloth of 
gold, at II A.M. He has the reputation of being one of the 
most enlightened of Indian Potentates. He wears spectacles, 
which somehow or other never seem to suit Oriental costume 
very satisfactorily. His Sirdars were very splendid and peculiar 
in attire. 

The cortege of the Maharaja of Cashmere caused the im- 
pression produced by previous coruscations to fade away. Th^ 



320 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

stage-coach, in which the Maharaja, the Political Officer (Cap- 
tain Jenkins), and his Dewan sat, arrived at 11.20 a. m. It was 
preceded by two Life Guardsmen, armed with enormous sabres, 
in brass helmets and red horse-hair plumes, steel cuirasses, — 
helmets and cuirasses which, unless I am deceived, once belonged 
to France, and defended the heads and bodies of Imperial Cuir- 
assiers, — blue coats, yellow buckskin breeches, and long boots. 
Four more came behind his carriage, in addition to his escort. 
His Sirdars followed in five carriages. He is a handsome, well- 
made man, upright, and more quick in gait and manner than 
Asiatic Chiefs generally are. ' He and his Chiefs affect the Sikh 
head-dress — one of the most becoming of turbans, with a pretty, 
rakish set on the head, and smart, defiant brush, or tuft of bird- 
of-paradise feathers, in front. As to his aigrette or plaque of 
diamonds, one can only say that there seemed to be a flash in 
the air as he turned his head in talking with the Prince. The 
Maharaja of Gwalior followed. He walked towards the Prince 
in a kind of eager, courteous, deprecating way, which no actor 
could imitate. The attachment of Scindia to the British raj 
nearly cost him his throne in 1858 ; and he certainly did not in- 
crease his prestige among his own people by the discovery and 
surrender of a supposititious Nana Sahib — heir, in their eyes, of 
the Peishwa. Scindia delights in soldiering, and a very good 
judge told me he knew few officers in our service who could put 
a Division of the three arms through a good field-day so well. 
His is one of the cases which present formidable difficulties in 
India. Here is a ruler of martial tendencies, who has no pos- 
sible career open to him, and whose devotion to drilling and 
manoeuvring must be more or less cause of anxiety to the Para-, 
mount Power. He is roug:h in speech, but that his sentiments 
are noble may be inferred from his answer when the Bombay 
Government desired to buy the site for the Palace at Gunnesh 
Khind. " A man," said he, " does not sell his patrimony ; but 
he can give it to his friend." 

At 12 (noon) a salute of nineteen guns was fired, and a closed 
brougham drove up to the steps, to which the guard (now of the 



THE LEVEE. 321 

40th Regiment, relieving the 109th Regiment) presented arms. 
The door was opened, and a shawl, supported on a pair of thin 
legs, appeared. On the top of the shawl there was the semblance 
of a head, but visible face there was none, for over the head 
was drawn a silk hood, and from it depended a screen of some 
sort of stuff, which completely hid features which report says are 
not at all deserving of such strict concealment, though her High- 
ness is nearly forty, which is old for India. This was the Sultana 
Jehan, Begum of Bhopal, G.C.S.I., a descendant of one of those 
families which were pushed into place and power by British in- 
fluence after the Pindarees were stamped down. With her came 
a daughter, draped and dressed in the same way, and quite as 
old, to judge from appearance, though the lady is only eighteen. 
They walked very slowly one after the other up the steps, taking 
their time about it, as if they were performing some remarkable 
feat. The Sirdars, among whom were two highly-jewelled lads, 
said to be her Highness' nephews, and one old gentlemen. Jam 
Allahdeen Khan, a very fine type of a Native Minister, were 
dressed magnificently. The Begum was very much at her ease, 
and chatted very pleasantly with the Prince, whilst her daughter 
engaged in conversation with Sir Bartle Frere. 

The last Chief was the Maharaja of Rewah, whose carriage 
and four, with two postilions in green and gold, top-boots, and 
breeches, did credit to the Political Officer (Bannerman) in 
charge of his Highness. The Maharaja is a dignified personage, 
very well spoken of by all who know him. His family claims 
very high rank in point of antiquity and ancestry. 

The receptions finished, a Levee was held in the Throne- 
room. The Prince, in full uniform, stood before the throne for 
more than two hours, bowing to the stream passing before him — 
the Duke of Sutherland, Lord A. Paget, and Sir B. Frere on his 
right ; and Sir R. Temple on his left, whispering information, 
which caused the names to be a little jumbled up and some 
bows to be missed. Notwithstanding the notices, people would 
bring cards printed in all kinds of texts, instead of having their 
names boldly and legibly written. It was pitiable to see the 
14* 21 



322 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

state of bewilderment in wliich Native or European from the 
mass, barred at the door, passed, with the sun — for it would get 
through — in his eyes, between lines of uniformed gentlemen, one 
saying, " Not so fast ; wait till your name is called ! " another 
exclaiming, " Turn your head and salaam. Sir ! " and looked for 
the Prince in order to make his bow — wondering all the while 
who " Ramchunder Doss " or " Colonel Jones," whose name he 
heard called, was when he was " Baboo Shastryia" or " Major 
Evans." It was as difficult to restrain the impatience of some 
as it was to accelerate the approach of others. 

After a grand banquet at Government House the Prince 
went to the entertainment prepared by a committee of Native 
gentlemen, at Belgatchfa, a villa five miles away, from which the 
company did not get away till past midnight. What pleases 
Native gentlemen is not quite to European taste. There was a 
little too much smoke — too great a luxury of fireworks and illu- 
minations to be agreeable to those who are so used to them by 
this time as to be very exacting and fastidious, but there were 
many pretty things. Above all, there was the intense wish to 
please. The dancing girls were so laden with clothes that only 
their faces and toes were visible, and dancing was lost in 
drapery. 

December 25. — Christmas Day. The Prince and the Viceroy 
attended Divine service in the Cathedral. It was a full choral 
service. Every seat was filled. The Communion-table was 
decorated with flowers, and the choir/'"'' "v^j the service by sing- 
ing the Christmas Hymn, advancing' ^^c.t^^sion to the altar 
from the porch. The Prince sat w^t'vj; ;;:4| Northbrook on his 
left. Miss Baring on the right. The Bisl^p.p and clergy were 
assisted by the Rev. Canon Duckworth. A charity sermon for 
distressed Europeans, remarkable for treatment and character, 
was preached by the Bishop. It contained no reference to the 
Prince's visit. It was an earnest and powerful appeal to Chris- 
tians to set an example to the heathen. Every Englishman in 
India was a missionary ; he became a minister of God or a min- 
ister of evil ; he was charged with the burden of Christ. By his 



ANOTHER LEVEE. 323 

life was Christ's teaching judged. This principle of direct re- 
sponsibility Bishop Milman insisted on most forcibly, concluding 
with an admirable appeal for aid to our distressed country- 
men.* 

The Prince, after his return from the Cathedral, drove to 
Prinsep's Ghaut, where thousands of natives and hundreds of 
Europeans, attracted by the Serapis dressed out with flags, had 
assembled. Two lines of sailors (Commander Bedford) and 
marines (Major Snow) were drawn up on the gangway, which 
was covered with scarlet cloth, and on pontoons extending from 
the shore to the ship. Outside, the officers of the Serapis and of 
the Osborne. Most of the blue-jackets had flowers in their breast. 
The deck was artfully transformed into a winter scene by means 
of shrubs and branches covered with cotton-wool to represent 
snow, which, with the aid of some glistening white powder, it did 
most successfully. Holly and ivy wreaths, fabricated on board, 
were hung on the bunting-walls alongside inscriptions of " Wel- 
come, merry Christmas ! " " Happy new year ! " " God bless the 
Prince of Wales ! " " CeadmillefaiMe," " Welcome." Old Father 
Christmas was duly represented. Across the forecastle was the 
inscription, " We wish you a prosperous journey and a safe return 
to us." A table prettily decorated, was prepared for lunch on the 
main-deck. "God save the Queen" having been played, the health 
of the Pnncc —as diunk with Highland honors, the cheers being 
echoed by tiie crowd outsi:!..-. The Prince proposed the health of 
Captain Hlvjn £ix\<^*-\ ^' "^'^ers of the Serapis, to whom he paid some 
graceful compln ing ihe name of Commander Durrant of 

the Osborne. Cap:.. ;. n, rn returning thanks, expressed a hope 
that Major-General Buwne would keep time in his 5000 miles' 
laTid journey witlnhe Prince as well as the Serapis had kept her 
dat§ -"^^ the Prince bade th j vessel good-by, the crew rushed 
up into the rigging, cheering vociferously. 

The Prince ^v:s p .;-- nied by Lord Northbrook, Miss 

* Bishop Milin.: caught in an episcopal tour through the 

North- West Provit . . - :s afterwards. 



/3 






^■9:4, 



324 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Baring, and the members of his personal staff, on a drive to the 
Viceregal Lodge at Barrackpoor in the afternoon. The name is 
better known to the English public as that of a Station at which 
the signs and tokens of a terrible trouble to come were first 
observed than as the pleasant retreat to which the Viceroy flies 
from the turmoil of Government House on Saturdays, returning 
on Monday, after a quiet day in the country, to his life of toil. 
There is a church near at hand, and a large population of ofiicials 
who can afford to pay high rents for their bungalows are quarter- 
ed on the banks of the river, at the other side of which is Seram- 
poor. There is a noble park, in which the Bombax, not yet in 
flower, Casuarinas hung with creepers, Calabash trees, and 
many others, with the ordinary types of Bengal vegetation, are 
seen in great beauty. Times are changed since 1857. It has 
ceased to be a great Station. There was a quiet reception in the 
saloons of the Lodge in the evening. 

December 26. — After church the Prince made an excursion by 
water to Chandernagore. The visit delighted the residents in 
that pretty settlement. Some time ago it was supposed that 
France might be disposed to exchange it for an equal or larger 
slice of land in extension of Pondicherry. But times have changed, 
and any proposal of the kind nuw would be, it is said, e.^.barrass- 
ing. The Governor was at Pondichcriv ,■* lending a oouncil, but 
the Consul received the Prince. There wr^s ?> -raart guard of 
honor of Sepoys, tricolors, and British .^iags. A Royal salute 
was fired. The town band of Calcutta played "'-^<^^savcr c^h<- 
Queen ;" and although it was not t^:!I Saturday evening that, the 
likelihood of the visit was known, the ColW^turned out in black 
coats and white cravats. There ./ .'. the inevlible address, of 
course, but it was short, and it wa-S-well read by anYJfJl* Z}^^ 
named Wade, whose grace won complimentary remarks on thl 
taste and elegance of Frenchwomen. *' Soyez le bienveuu sur 
cette terre frangaise, qui conservera '/5'ngtemps le souvenir d'un 
si beau jour ! " The President of the iVench Tribunal presented 
the French officials. The vin d'honneur and the usual toasts 
were drunk, after which the visitors passed in carriages through 



CHANDERNAGORE. 325 

the neat little town. Chandernagore has been called an Eastern 
Arcadia. Certainly some of its people are simple enough 
" Tiens ! " exclaimed one to his neighbor when his Royal High- 
ness proposed the health of the President. " Tiens ! le Prince 
parle frangais done ! " By the time the Prince returned to the 
Ghaut all Chandernagore was there to cheer him, and cry, "Vive 
le Prince de Galles ! " 

December 27. — There was a heavy dew at night, and at dawn 
there was a fog on the river which hid the opposite bank from 
view till 7 A. M. At 9 a. m. the Royal party embarked on board 
the Rhotas and her attendant floating house. The Prince, Lord 
Northbrook, &c., landed at Chandal, and drove to Government 
House, where there was to be another reception of Chiefs. All 
was ready by the time the Prince arrived. The Body Guard in 
their places ; the Grand Staircase seamed with a broad red carpet ; 
a guard of honor of H. M. 40th, with band and colors, and a 
glittering of gold lace under the portico and in the vestibule. 

At five minutes to 12 a. m. a salute of fifteen guns; punctual 
to a moment, the Emissaries from the King of Burmah drove up 
in handsome carriages and four, with outriders, to the entrance. 
The Envoy-in-chief wore a circular casque of beaten gold, 
surmounted by a sort of steeple, with fantastic sprouts of the 
same metal. The members of the Mission had casques orna- 
mented by flaps of velvet and gold, and wings of gold-embroidered 
velvet ; their figures were enveloped in heavy folds of brocade. 
But people who knew what to look at were principally concerned 
with their feet. They wore patent-leather shoes or bottines, and 
entered the presence without taking them off. When Sir Douglas 
Forsyth went to visit the King, he was required to take off his 
shoes. Henceforth the Court of Burmah can scarcely expect 
any British Envoy to forget the precedent set at Calcutta. No 
one could form an idea of the effect produced by the interview 
on the Burmese from their stolid features, closed mouths and 
sunken eyes. 

At 12.15 ^' ^^- ^^ Maharaja of Punnah, only an eleven-gun 
Prince, but a very splendid person, attended by the Political 



326 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

Officer, was received. The Prince rules a small jungly State, 
with a population of 183,000, but is rich in the possession of a 
diamond-field close to his capital. He boasts a pedigree of 350 
years of royalty ; is a Bondeela, 28 years of age, and good look- 
ing; given to photography ; very willing to improve his people. 
In his head-dress sparkled numerous samples of the produce of 
his mines of great size and brilliancy, and his Sirdars were richly 
garnished with precious stones on their turbans, necks, arms, and 
fingers. Next an Embassy from the Nepalese Government was 
announced. It was led by Runoodeep Sing, Rana Bahadoor, 
and among its members w^as Bubbur Jung, son of Sir Jung Baha- 
door, who is as fond of sport as his father ; rides admirably, 
wins or loses steeple-chases and is quite of Young Nepal. He 
will be attached as aide-de-camp to the Prince's staff. The com- 
bination of the rakish head-dress — a sort of skull-cap wreathed 
with pearls and emeralds, and decorated in front with an aigrette 
of diamonds, from which spirts up a stijff plume or brush of hair 
— with the scarlet coat and sash of a British General officer, 
regulation overalls, strapped over boots, was effective. The 
Sirdars wore uniforms like our artillery ; several had the Indian 
medal and Lucknow clasp, and Colonel Tej Sing had tho medal 
for the Thibet campaign, of the details of which we 1 / very 
little indeed. 

The Nepalese were eclipsed by Raghbeer Sing, the Raja of 
Jheend, and his followers, not so much by any great wealth of 
jewels, as by the noble bearing of the Chief and by the fine per- 
sons of some of his Sirdars. The Raja is only forty-two years 
of age, but his full beard is already grey, his features are very 
handsome, his figure tall, his manner full of dignity. A keen 
sportsman, a good soldier, a vigorous administrator, he has 
hereditary claims to the gratitude of the Imperial Government ; 
for it was his father, Sarup Sing, who first marched against the 
Delhi mutineers and remained in camp till the city fell ; his 
ancestors helped Lord Lake at the critical time, and held fast to 
the British Government in the Sutlej campaign. He is only an 
eleven-gun Raja, but his house has been rewarded by several 



THE MAHARAJA OF BENARES. 32/ 

grants of land. He was attended by Captain Lawrence. The 
dresses worn by the suite were distinctive ; yellow turbans, 
pointed at the side, bound with fillets of gold cloth over the fore- 
head, aigrettes of diamonds, flowing robes of brocade, and very 
tight pantaloons of white silk. Each man bore his sword by a 
belt from his side, instead of carrying it in his hand. 

The Prince received a visit from the Maharaja of Benares at 
I p. M. His Highness was escorted to and from Government 
House by cavalry, and there was a guard of honor and band to 
receive him, and artillery detachment to fire his salute of 
thirteen guns. His carriage was drawn by four horses, the 
leaders ridden by postilions, the wheelers .driven by a coachman 
on the box — the effect unusual, but not at all distressing to 
native ideas. Indeed, the amount of jDain we cause them by our 
love-'Of uniformity is very great. They like disparity. I was 
told of a Raja who was very much displeased because a new 
carriage sent from London made no noise on the highway, and 
was only satisfied when the local authority, by a happy thought, 
ordered the screws and bolts of the springs to be loosened, and 
so gave room for the needful clatter and jingle. The Maharaja 
is a Brahmin, with a 900 years' pedigree. He has a revenue of 
80,000/. a year, of which more than a quarter (30,000/.) is paid 
to the British Government as revenue. He is learned, encour- 
ages education, and is gracious in manner. His position of 
Raja of the Sacred City, the holy monuments of which he has 
done a good deal to protect, gives him more consideration among 
the natives than he would be entitled to from his possessions. 
Of him more hereafter — stat noininis U7nhra — but he is much 
respected by his own people, and by Europeans, to whom he 
shows the greatest hospitality. He was most anxious that the 
Prince should visit his shooting grounds, where he promised good 
sport ; but the programme would not admit of it, and the Prince 
expressed his regret that he could only pay him a short visit at 
his castle on the Ganges as he was on his way to Lucknow. 

The Maharaja of Nahun was received at 1.15 p.m. Next 
came the Maharaja of Johore (seventeen guns; Political Officer, 



328 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Captain Gordon ; Secretary, Mr. Hole), Chief of a district of 
20,000 square miles in the southern part of the Malayan Penin- 
sula, above Singapore. His Chiefs, in dress and face, present a 
compromise between the Malay and the native of Hindostan. 
Lighter in color, with round face and muscular frames, they 
seem as if they had fighting powers inside, and their vicinity to 
Perak made one study their appearance with comparative interest. 
The Raja affects no finery, has an open, frank manner, and has 
travelled much for an Indian Chief. 

By this time the most indefatigable worshipper of State 
observances, and the greatest admirer of the picturesque, had 
probably grown a little weary of the uninterrupted succession of 
Chiefs and Sirdars, and diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls 
had begun to look very much of the same size and brightness. 
But what must the officers, who were galloping up and down 
outside, meeting the Rajas at prescribed distances and seeing 
them off again, have thought of the length of the visits ? The 
sun was very hot ; and even in the Audience Chamber, where 
the punkah swung to and fro all day, the Prince no doubt felt 
grateful for the additional currents of air wafted from the yaks'- 
tails and the fans held by his attendants. To say the truth, 
there was, in the uniformity of pan and uttur and regulation 
courtesies, something which made one tire even of the sight of 
Major Henderson, as he conducted, his friends to the presence, 
and feel glad when it was all over. 

December 28. — After receptions naturally come return visits ; * 
the early part of to-day was devoted by the Prince to these acts 
of courtesy. The preparations of the Maharaja of Cashmere, 
who received the Prince at 11.30 a.m., were of extraordinary 
richness. There was a tent of Cashmere shawls outside the 
house. The walls were draped with shawls of immense value ; 
the floors of the rooms were covered with the finest shawls. 
One felt as if he were walking over charming paintings, and 
destroying with Vandal foot works of great price. There was a 

* See Appendix. 



RETURN VISITS. 329 

dais shrouded in magnificent shawls at the end of the room ; 
there was a shawl canopy for the throne or chairs of state. 
Rich as these were, the Maharaja and his Sirdars were richer 
still. They wore robes of stuff which might be described as 
being thickened with a crust of exceeding fine jewels. From 
his Highness of Cashmere's residence the Prince went to that of 
the Maharaja of Johore, who made offerings of very character- 
istic work and fabrics from the Malay Peninsula. The Maharaja 
of Jeypoor was next in order, and very splendid in his presents 
and arrangements. After him, the Prince visited Holkar. The 
Prince next drove to the residence of the Maharaja of Jodhpoor, 
and with him closed the list of return visits for the day. 

December 29.- — The Prince, at 11.30 a. m., drove to visit the 
Maharaja of Gwalior. Scindia has the good taste not to be too 
splendid in his ornaments. He did the honors royally ; but 
when the Prince took his seat, he made a very low salaam with 
his hands clasped together before he sat down. The Begum of 
Bhopal, who had a very striking-looking ejitourage, next received 
a visit. After her Highness came the Chief of Rewah, whose 
armor-clad Sirdars were the grandest yet seen. Jheend, Punnah, 
and others followed, and then there was a welcome drive home 
\o rest for a while. 

After lunch the Prince attended the Calcutta races. It was 
arranged that an excursion should be made by special train at 
midnight to Goalundo, to have two days' boar-hunting and snipe- 
shooting ; but the Prince thought it unadvisable to leave 
Government House, as he had caught a cold, which would not 
be improved in the jungle. He permitted those of his suite who 
desired it to go, and the famous Tent Club promised to give 
them excellent sport. 

December 30. — The Prince invited the Viceroy, Miss Baring, 
and a small party to lunch on board the Serapis. It was what 
is called a " change," and there was, somehow, an idea of a 
picnic connected with it. And odd it was to think that not 
nine-and-ninety years ago all that was English within many miles 
of the scene of the little entertainment was represented by a 



330 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

handful of fugitives from the fort of Calcutta, ere it fell into the 
hands of Sooraj-ood-Dowlah, embarked in a few small vessels off 
Fulta, awaiting anxiously the arrival of Clive from Madras to 
avenge " the Black Hole," and, as it turned out, to win Plassey 
and to found an Empire. There were some not twenty-one years 
ago who would have followed the example of Governor Minchin 
and have escaped from Calcutta if they could. In the evening 
his Royal Highness honored Sir A. and Lady Clarke with his 
company at dinner. 

December -i^Y. — Tent-pegging — feats of horsemanship by troop- 
ers of the loth Bengal Cavalry at 9 a. m. Tent-pegging means 
riding full tilt at a tent-peg driven into the ground and carrying 
it off on the point of the lance. If any one thinks it easy to do 
this, let him try, remembering that Indian tent-pegs are larger, 
longer, and stick deeper than those at home. Then rupees were 
put on the pegs to be knocked off by the Lancers. Handker- 
chiefs were laid on the ground, and one man managed to take 
three in succession in the same gallop. There were other 
exhibitions, somewhat of a circus character, but that the h£)rses 
were ridden on the hard plain, and everything was done by 
hand, bit, and balance. The Prince was so much pleased that 
he gave a hunting-knife to the best man. A British trooper 
would have probably received the unexpected gift with much 
delight and mauvaise honte. The To wanna man was able to 
express a wish that he might be allowed to wear the knife when 
in uniform, and the wish was acceded to. The delusions preva- 
lent about the covert sides of England, that no men can ride but 
Englishmen, and the fond faith of Irish fox-hunters, that there is 
no race in the world like the natives of the Green Isle for hip- 
podamic prowess, might be somewhat shaken if they had seen 
these swarthy gentlemen. 

The Prince returned to Government House, and at noon 
drove out with the Duke of Sutherland, General Probyn, Dr, 
Fayrer, and the Rev. Canon Duckworth, to make a round of the 
principal Hospitals of Calcutta, from which he returned at 2 p. M. 
At the Medical Hospital and College, he was received by Dr. 



THE CHAPTER OF THE STAR OF INDIA. 33 1 

Clevege and the Professors and native teachers. He next went 
to the Campbell Hospital, Sealdale, where he was received by 
Dr. Woodford. He then visited the European Female Orphan 
Asylum, and was conducted over the establishment by Miss 
Clark, the lady superintendent, and ladies of the Committee. 
His Royal Highness expressed much pleasure at the healthy 
appearance of the children. At the Military Hospital he was 
received by Dr. Ray. Lord Napier also joined the party. His 
Royal Highness expressed himself pleased and satisfied with all 
he saw, and he certainly saw a good deal. 

The day was wound up with a Garden Party at Belvedere, a 
Dinner at Government House, and the Grand Ball. The sport- 
ing party returned at 7 p. m. from Goalundo greatly pleased. 
There were no mishaps. Seven or eight boars were speared. 



THE CHAPTER OF THE STAR OF INDIA. 

January i, 1876. — The adjustment of the relative position 
of the Prince and of the Viceroy had caused considerable anx- 
iety to good, people at home before his Royal Highness set out 
on his journey. There were obvious objections to any person, 
however exalted, appearing to take precedence, in the eyes of 
the Chiefs and people of India, of the representative of the 
Queen. The Viceroy would feel that he could not be the equal 
or the superior of the Prince. No ceremonial has such impor- 
tance as a Durbar. It is a Court reception, in which each, 
according to his rank, is brought face to face with the represen- 
tative of the Sovereign. But no one could hold a Durbar unless 
he were the representative of the Queen. Eventually it was 
suggested — I believe by Lord Northbrook — as a way of escape 
from these difficulties, that a Chapter of the Order of the Star 
of India, in which the Prince should act as High Commissioner, 
should be held at Calcutta on New Year's Day. 

All fashionable Calcutta was early awake, those who were to 
be in attendance being summoned for 7.45 a. m. At the distance 



332 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

of a mile from Government House, canvas walls had been 
erected in a long parallelogram. Along this were ranged tents 
for the Rajas and other personages who were to take part in 
the ceremony, so that each could pass into his tent, and remain 
there till it was time for him to take his place in the pageant. 
Opposite the entrance in a Chapter-tent which was carpeted 
with cloth of gold, with the Royal Arms emblazoned in the centre, 
was an elevated dais. Above the dais a canopy covered with 
light-blue satin, and supported upon silver pillars. Beneath the 
canopy were two chairs, with silver arms, one with the Prince of 
Wales' "plumes," the other with a " crown," embossed on the 
back. On each side of and behind these chairs, were tiers of 
seats, those in front for members of the Order. Outside the 
tent were platforms for those fortunate enough to obtain tickets. 
Inside the enclosure were drawn up the marines and sailors ot 
the Serapis, and a military band. On the left were infantry ot 
the line ; in front of the outer canopy was a tall flag-staff. 

At 9.10 A. M. the artillery fired a Royal salute. A grand 
fiourish of trumpets announced a very fine sight. First came 
Native servitors in liveries of scarlet and gold, two and two, 
bearing silver maces, spears, and wands of office. Next the 
Grand Marshal of the camp, Mr. Henvey, and Mr. Secretary 
Aitchison ; then the Companions of the Order, two and two, 
one-half Natives, one-half Europeans. As the procession en- 
tered the Chapter-tent, the servitors ranged themselves right 
and left at the entrance. 

Scarcely had the splendor of the stream of uniforms and 
costumes of the procession of the Companions toned down ere 
the procession of the Begum of Bhopal, the first Knight Grand 
Commander, entered, led by Colonel Osborne, the Political Offi- 
cer, preceding eight Sirdars. Next came an officer bearing quaint 
devices on a silken banner. Her Highness, veiled and swathed in 
brocaded stuff of many colors, over which was the ample light- 
blue satin robe, with white shoulder-knots, of the Order, was 
attended by two native pages in very handsome dresses and 
bare feet. Next came Mr. Trevor, the Political Agent, leading 



THE PROCESSION OF THE ORDER. 333 

the procession of Sir Salar Jung. Eight Sirdars, dressed with 
that taste in the arrangement of color and fashion of apparel, the 
joy of artists and horror of martinets, which the West has tried 
to destroy by " uniform," followed. Sir Salar Jung wore a small 
white turban, and a plain caftan of dark green cloth. His train 
was borne by two pretty pages, dressed in green and gold. In 
contrast to his studied simplicity, came next the Maharaja of 
Puttiala, who wore on his turban many fine diamonds, which 
were said to have once belonged to the Empress Eugenie, and 
the great Sancy diamond as a pendant. Lord Napier of Mag- 
dala came next. Well has the Colonel of Indian Engineers, 
who was summoned to Lucknow eighteen years ago by Colin 
Campbell, won his honors. He took his seat next Sir Salar 
Jung, and courteously saluted him, the Begum of Bhopal and the 
Maharaja of Puttiala, who sat opposite to him. 

The procession of the excellent Maharaja of Travancore, who 
is very like Mr. Buckstone, if one could fancy him in Oriental 
garb, came next. His Dewan and Sirdars were in the costume 
of their country, which is not so fine as that of Central India. 

Next appeared Sir Bartle Frere, preceded by a banner with 
many an ancient quartering, his train held by two midshipmen. 
The Maharaja of Rewah followed. His procession, led by Major 
Bannerman, consisted of Sirdars, who would make a sensation 
in a London or Paris theatre. They were animated nuggets, 
ambulatory mines of jewels — ^one especially, who wore a suit of 
chain-armor, arabesqued breast and back pieces, jewelled plume 
casque of gold and enamelled gauntlets. Rewah — reminding 
one of the great King of yore, on whose Palace wall the dread 
fingers wrote the pregnant sentence — wore a golden crown, 
exquisitely worked, blazing wtth gems. The Maharaja of Jeypoor's 
procession, headed by Colonel Benyon, included eight character- 
istic Thakoors and pages, whose doublets and trunk-hose of light- 
blue satin contrasted admirably with their dark faces. Next 
came Political Maitland, who headed the Maharaja Holkar's 
procession. That burly gentleman looked like an Indian Henry 
VIII. His pages were in Vandyck brown and gold. Next 



334 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

came the procession of the Maharaj i of Cashmere, Major 
Jenkins in front. Eight most resplendent warriors and courtiers, 
finely shawled and jewelled, two and two, were eclipsed by the 
magnificent Maharaja, whose train was carried by pages in green 
velvet tunics and pink turbans, and who bore the ransom of a 
kingdom on his person. Last, Colonel Hutchinson appeared at 
the head of Maharaja Scindia's procession. Brilliant as was the 
gorgeous Chief of Gwalior, the Europeans, at least, were not 
inclined to bestow on him much attention, for the Prince was 
now advancing. His household and officers in two lines pre- 
ceded him. The Prince wore white helmet and plume, and 
Field-Marshal's uniform, almost concealed beneath the folds of 
his sky-blue satin mantle. His train was carried by naval 
cadets, Messrs. Grimston and Walshe, " blue boys," in cavalier 
hats and wigs, blue satin cloaks, tunics, trunk-hose, and 
resetted shoes ; pretty to look at, but decidedly anachronous, 
for the Order cannot claim any cavalier associations — but pages 
must be pages. The Prince took his seat on the dais, the Band 
playing " God save the Queen," all standing. The Viceroy 
ordered the Secretary to read the roll of the Order. Mr Aitchi- 
son did so. Each member stood up as his name was called, 
bowed, and sat down. The Chapter was then declared open ; 
the Secretary reported the business to be the investiture of the 
persons named in a warrant, directing the Prince to invest them, 
from the Queen, dated Balmoral, October 25th, 1875. The 
Viceroy and the members of the Order rose, bowed to the Prince, 
and sat down. The Prince then received from the Secretary 
the grants of the several dignities, which were handed to a page. 
He directed " the investiture to proceed." 

First, the Maharaja of Jodhpoor was conducted from the 
tent in which he had been robed to the presence ; the Under- 
Secretary bearing the insignia on a blue satin and velvet cushion. 
He was met at the entrance of the Chapter-tent by two junior 
Knights, and led up to the footstool of the Prince by Mr. Aitch- 
ison, who held him firmly by the hand, and indicated when he 
was to bow, kneel, walk backwards, and sit down. After the 



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THE CEREMONY. 335 

Queen's grant had been read, the Maharaja, having been decora- 
ted with a Knight's riband, badges, star, and robes, stood before 
the dais. He made two obesiances, and knelt. The Prince 
then placed the collar of the Order round his neck, and admon- 
ished him in prescribed form. Seventeen guns were fired. The 
Maharaja then rose, and, instructed by Mr. Aitchison, was led 
backwards, bowing with his face to the dais, towards the seat 
reserved for him. There his banner was unfurled to a flQurish 
of trumpets, all standing. The Secretary proclaimed the titles 
of the newly-made Knight Grand Commander, and all resumed 
their seats. The account of one investiture must do for all. 
The Raja of Jheend was invested as G. C. S. I. The investiture 
of the Knights Commanders, Mr. Robinson, the Maharaja of 
Punna, Raja Mahun Kasee (Holkar's brother), Major-General 
Ramsay, General Runodeep Sing (Nepalese), Gunput Rao, and 
Faiz Ali Khan, followed. Mr. Robinson and Major-General 
Ramsay were also knighted. Mr. Chapman, Mr. Bullen Smith, 
and Baboo Degumber Mitter, received the badges of the Com- 
panionship, or third class of the Order. Then announcement 
was made by the Secretary that no more business remained. 
The Prince desired the Chapter to be closed. As the Prince 
emerged from the comparative darkness of the Durbar tent to the 
sound of a grand march, played by the military band, a Royal 
salute was fired, and the guard of honor presented arms. The spec- 
tacle of the procession leaving was by far the most picturesque 
part of the pageant. The Viceroy, the Grand Crosses, and the 
Grand Knights Commanders and Companions following in re- 
verse order of their entry. The pomp of elephants, the noisy 
cavalcade of Eastern ceremonial were wanting, and there was 
no token of the public interest such a grand spectacle would 
arouse on the part of the inhabitants of any European capital. 

As the Prince was going back to Government House, a na- 
tive rushed towards the carriage. The Prince perceived that he 
held a paper in both hands, and was not at ail perturbed. It 
was a petition. The natives have an idea that if one can give a 
petition into the Prince's hands, redress of grievances is certain. 



336 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

In the afternoon the Prince, accompanied by the Viceroy, 
unveiled an equestrian statue of Lord Mayo on the Maidan, near 
Government House. The Prince expressed his melancholy 
satisfaction at unveiling the statue of one whom he had been proud 
to call his friend, and who would have left a great name among 
Indian Viceroys had he lived. On behalf of the widow, children, 
and friends of Lord Mayo, he thanked the Committee for what 
they had done in honor of his memory. After this ceremony, 
the Prince put on plain clothes, and drove to the Race-course 
with the Viceroy, to witness a polo-match — an exciting contest 
between the Calcutta and Munipuri players ; the former big men, 
on well-fed, well-groomed ponies ; the latter light men, on ragged, 
poor-looking tats. The contest was rendered equal by the skill 
of the Munipuri men. The Prince next went to the display of 
fireworks on the Race-course, which were not quite equal to ex- 
pectation ; but the spectacle of tens of thousands of faces lighted 
up by mortars, rockets, and colored fires, was worth seeing. 
After the Royal party left the Race-stand an immense explosion 
occurred among the fireworks, but no one was hurt ; and it great- 
ly pleased the people, who thought it was part of the entertain- 
ment. At 7 p. M. the Prince drove off to see the fleet illuminated, 
and more fireworks were discharged from the ships ; and after 
dinner he proceeded to the theatre, where there was a State 
night by Viceregal command. But not even the attractions of 
the Prince's presence and of Mr. Charles Mathews' acting could 
fill the house, and the chiefs who were expected to pay loo/. for 
a box did not avail themselves as largely of the opportunity as 
the beneficiaire expected. Sir Salar Jung, the Maharaja of Rewah, 
and one or two more, however, did their best to appreciate " My 
Awful Dad." The Veteran comedian was received with great 
applause by the English speaking part of the audience, and at 
the end of the piece he was sent for and congratulated by the 
Prince The play-bill will be found in the Appendix. 

January 2. — The Prince, Viceroy, and party went to church 
at Fort William, and subsequently visited the Arsenal, where 
there is a collection of arms in good order. In the afternoon a 



POLO PLAYING. 



337 



Steamer conveyed the Royal party to the Botanical Gardens. 
They drove back through Howrah, which was brilliantly illumina- 
ted, and halted at the Bishop's College, on the way. There was 
a concert of sacred music after dinner, by amateurs of great 
excellence, at Government House. 

yanuary 3.— Before 8 a. m. the^ Prince, attended by General 
Probyn and a few gentlemen, left Government House, on horse- 
back, to see the i8th Bengal Cavalry exhibit their excellence in 
tent-pegging, feats of swordsmanship, and the like. There was 
not only tent-pegging, but a polo-match between five British 




MUNIPURI POLO PLAYER. 

champions and five Munipuri men. The latter scored five goals, 
to the astonishment of some of the spectators, who did not think 
it fair that an Englishman should be beaten at any sport by a 
native ; but polo is the national sport of the Munipuris. These 
active little gentleman would cut but a poor figure on their tats 
at a fox hunt. There was a regatta on the Hooghly at 2 o'clock. 
15 22 



33^ THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

It must be an unkindly river for a regatta ; the tide, up or down, 
races strongly, and although there is now no risk of fouling a 
dead Hindoo, the stream is not cleanly to look upon. The 
Prince created Mr. Stuart Hogg, the Chief Commissioner of 
Police, a Knight Bachelor ;. and, if it were any satisfaction to 
that gentleman to put "Sir" before his name, he had also the 
satisfaction of knowing that he had well earned the prefix by 
his work during the Royal visit. When "Sir Stuart" Plogg 
had been made and created, the Prince prepared for increment 
of his own honors, and was presented indue form at the Univer- 
sity of Calcutta with the degree of Doctor, " honoris causa," 
with immense acclamation. The paraphernalia of an English 
University seem out of place here ; hoods, caps, stoles, gowns, 
are rather hot, but nevertheless they are appreciated ; and the 
native graduates did not look at all amiss in cap and gown, sur- 
plice and robes. Left to themselves, the natives would very 
probably lie prone on their stomachs, sub tegmine fagi, or its 
substitute, listening to some ragged pundit or mollah, or sit on 
their hams around their teacher in tumble-down temple or mosque. 
How it came about I do not exactly know, but it is probable 
that the Prince expressed a wish to see the zenana of some 
respectable native, and that the wish was made known to the 
worthy Hindoo of Bhawanipore, Mr. Mookerjee, who was only 
too happy to gratify it to-day. Miss Baring, Lady Temple, Miss 
Milman, Lady Stuart Hogg, and others, had, perhaps, some part 
in the pour-par lers. There were hundreds of children assembled 
to see the Prince arrive ; most of the little ladies held pretty 
bouquets, with which, out of loyal devotion, to pelt the Prince. 
These children may develop into Hindoo Bloomers, and establish 
Women's Rights' Associations, unless their wild shrieks of liberty 
be silenced in the leaden flood of caste and custom which has 
drowned so much thought and life in India century after century. 
Instead of salutes and flourishes, or bell-pulling, the Hindoos use 
conchs to announce the arrival of guests ; the noise of these natural 
horns makes one rejoice that he is not among the Tritons. These 
were sounded often and long, for there were false alarms of the 
Prince's coming; but at last his carriage came in sight, and 



THE DEPARTURE OF THE PRINCE. 339 

there was much conch blowing. His Royal Highness did not 
appear in the splendid attire which Mrs. Mookerjee and her 
fair friends, no doubt, thought a Prince should wear. Whether 
Baboo Jagadanund Mookerjee will ever get over the wrath of 
his co-religionists for the doings of this day, time only can show. 
There is one fact revealed by the manner in which the occurence 
was accepted by those concerned : Hindoo ladies, at all events, 
do not consider strict seclusion at all essential to their happiness. 
But it is dangerous to argue from a particular to the universal, 
and so it will be safer, perhaps, to say that some Hindoo ladies 
do not dislike being seen — at all events, by a Prince of Wales. 

The delightful visit to Calcutta was over. In the noble 
reception-rooms of Government House there was one more 
gathering of notables to pay their respects to the Prince before 
his departure. Certainly no host could have done the honors of 
his house with greater taste and with more success than Lord 
Northbrook. The route from the Government House was lined 
with troops and people ; and the Station, beautifully prepared 
for the departing guest, was like a scene in a Christmas panto- 
mine. The cortege was half an hour late in arriving at Howrah, 
but the parting of the Prince from Lord Northbrook was not 
shorn of one pleasant word or kindly expression, and there were 
no doubt many there who bade each other farewell with sincere 
yegret, albeit the cares of ceremony rather clip the wings of 
friendship. The strains of the military band were drowned in 
ihe cheers and voices wishing "Godspeed!" as the train 
moved from the platform. The manner cE utilizing the Royal 
special train as a dormitory is now commended by much experi- 
ence. Th'i 'ox\\y loss the traveller suffers is that of such scenery 
as may be pair.ed when he is comfortably asleep. 

It may foe necessary to state here, as I have not done so be- 
fore, that at Bombay, Poonah, Ceylon, Madras, and Calcutta 
the Prinze's bounty has been largely bestowed on the poor and 
needy, and on the charities which needed aid. The demands 
on the Royal purse — many from European institutions — have 
^een very heavy and very various, and the donations made in the 
course of the journey already come to a large sum. 




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PRINCE LOUIS HANSELS THE GAINEE-CART. 



CHAPTER X. 

Bankipoor — The Famine officers — A great Satrap — Patna— 'Benares — A 
grand Camp — The last of the Tartars — Visit to the Raja of Viziana- 
gram — Ramnagar — Fyzabad — The " Martiniere " — Monument of the 
Faithful among the Faithless — Native Entertainment in the Kaiserbagh 
— Broken Collar-bones — Native Lucknow — Cavi^npoor Well and Memo- 
rial. 



January 4. — At the Bankipoor Station, which we reached 
early in the morning, there was a short halt for breakfast and 
change of dress. The Prince was received by Sir R. Temple, 
the officers, civil and military, of the district, and a vast con- 
course of people ; salutes, guards of honor, " God save the 
Queen." But-the feature of the reception was the well-equipped 
corps of mounted Volunteers (the Behar Riflemen) furnished by 
the planters and residents, whose appearance belied the evil 
reputation of the climate. Troops and police lined the road 
from the Station to the Camp, which was pitched on a plain, 



THE FAMINE LEVEE. 34 1 

not very far from Patna, the ancient Palibothra, capital of the 
famous State — now a district (Behar) given up to opium and 
indigo — to which Megasthenes was sent as envoy by Seleucus, 
when Httle was known about Great Britain and Ireland by the 
most learned. 

Sir Richard Temple had made preparations to show what a 
Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal could do. His Court, if not 
equal in splendor to that of the Viceroy, satisfied the spectator 
that he was a satrap of no ordinary magnitude and magnificence. 
Here was the crowning glory, not of his life — for he is young, 
ambitious, and able enough to look for greater honors — but of 
his career as a conqueror in the Famine Campaign. He had 
assembled the generals, ofiicers, and privates of the vast army 
which had been engaged as his instruments, to be presented to 
the Prince of Wales. 

Considering that there are, it is said, less than 100,000 Euro- 
peans in India, it was surprising to see what an assembly of 
ladies, in most charming bonnets and most correct costumes, 
were waiting to welcome him. The avenue to the Durbar tent 
was lined by nearly four hundred elephants, caparisoned with 
great richness, the howdahs filled with people in gala dresses. The 
great multitude — Europeans on one side of the way and natives 
on the other — was loyal and picturesque ; the loyalty of the 
Europeans expressed by cheers, waving of handkerchiefs, play- 
ing of bands, and discharges of cannon ; the picturesqueness 
afforded by Rajas, Nawabs, and natives of inferior dignity. The 
Durbar marquee was a very spacious and stately but gaudy erec- 
tion of canvas, hung with chandeliers. Patna is supposed to 
contain a good deal of disaffection and of religious fanaticism 
which are encouraged by the presence of certain Mohammedan 
teachers ; and it has been found necessary, I believe, to lock up 
a good many people whose pronounced opinions, or previous 
history, were of a nature to attract the attention of the authorities. 

When the Prince had taken his place on the elevated dais 
undei; the canopy, whereon was placed a regal chair, the levee 
began, those distinguished by their exertions in the time of 



342 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

trouble being specially presented ; but the anxiety of Sir Richard 
Temple to give information concerning the remarkable per- 
sonages — and his personal knowledge seemed to be universal — 
had an effect which he did not anticipate ; for the gracious bow 
was not always given to the owner of the name for which it was 
intended. That may seem but a small matter, but think of the 
anxiety of those who were looking forward to that recognition as 
their great reward, and of their chagrin when they found that 
their identity was not marked ! There were Rajas and Zemindars 
of repute among the natives ; and although now and then the 
" locals " might be heard muttering, " The old rascal ought to 
have been hanged in '58 ! " or, " One of the most seditious fel- 
lows in Behar ! " generajly they were well spoken of. 

The levee was followed by a dejeuner in a very fine and lofty 
shamianah. The wives and families of the planters, and of the 
European residents generally were invited, and had full oppor- 
tunity to see the Prince, as he sat at a slightly-elevated table at 
the end, with Sir R. Temple by his side. The health of " the 
Queen " was given, and then that of the Prince, which was re- 
ceived with great enthusiasm. 

After this toast, the Prince proceeded to look at a panther 
offered by the sergeants of the 109th regiment. The three hun- 
dred and eighty elephants then passed in procession, and the 
Prince was amused at one very merry little fellow, who hopped 
about, danced, and waved his trunk in a comical manner. 
Amongst the gifts was a pair of very beautiful little oxen, not as 
large as Shetland ponies, which drew a light carriage like an 
artillery limber. They were not easy to drive by those not to 
the manner born, as Prince Louis of Battenberg found when he 
made gallant essay to direct them. After an agreeable halt of 
three hours, the Prince returned to the Station. 

From Bankipoor to Benares the country is flat but not quite 
uninteresting. It was disappointing to observe that in eighteen 
years no change had been made in the appearance of the people 
or of their dwellings. The weather is cold at night, and it was 
pitiable to see people here with their heads muffled up, at the 



A GRAND CAMP. 343 

expense of their brown legs, in a thin cotton cloth ; a piece of 
calico was all their covering. They are no better off than the 
dwellers in the land of Egypt. In Egypt they are not harassed 
by cold at least ; and a loin cloth and a skull cap are ample for 
the fellah's wants. The officials say these people are rich. 
There is always a story of wealth stored up in holes and corners 
— so they tell one in Egypt. But railway observations are not 
safe guides to knowledge, /r^ or con., on any subject. It was 
nearly dark when the Royal train reached Rajghaut, the Station 
of Benares, but there was enough of light to give an ideal 
grandeur to those marvellous ghauts which have furnished so 
many subjects for the artist's pencil and the traveller's descrip- 
tive powers. And, truth to tell, these terraces descending from 
Temples, Palaces, and Choultries to the river's edge, look better 
through a medium of haze or moonlight than they do in the 
"garish light of day." The cortege drove over the bridge of 
boats from the right bank of the Ganges, and so through streets 
and roadways, the sides of which were crowded with people, out 
to the camp of the Lieutenant-Governor. The camp was enclosed 
by walls of canvas ; the row of fourteen tents on the left was 
faced by another row of the same number. The main street, 
I GOG feet along and 230 feet broad, was bounded at the end by 
the Durbar tents, on the left of which was a separate enclosure, 
2GO feet square. This contained- drawing-room, bedroom, dress- 
ing-room. Equerry's room, a room for Lord SufBeld, another for 
Mr. Knollys, two for personal attendants, and a tent for the 
guard — each room a large tent. They were all prettily furnished 
and decorated, the floors covered with rich carpets ; a covered 
way led from the drawing-room to the tent of the Lieutenant- 
Governor, which was 70 feet long by 30 feet broad. Covered 
ways led from this saloon to a dinner tent. The Lieutenant- 
Governor, Sir John Strachey, Lady Strachey, and family, lodged 
in tents to the right of the dinner-room. Each tent had a lamp 
in front, and the numbers and names were inscribed outside. 
Enter your own, and you find a charming carpeted quadrangle, 
divided into a bedroom and sitting-room, with a fireplace in 



344 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

which are blazing logs and glowing coals — not at all superfluous 
in this Indian winter — and, moreover, lights, tables, chairs, and 
every comfort a Rechabite of the most luxurious nature could 
desire — soft bed, and large bath, and ample space for life ; 
smaller tents for servants within call, a complete establishment 
of attendants — plans of the camp — directions as to postal and 
telegraphic arrangements — rules to be observed in case of fire — 
clothes all ready laid out for dinner, of which the Camp bell and 
bugle give warning. The lamps and lights give one the idea of 
a busy street in high festivity; and when the company are 
seated in the great tent, which is brilliant as a London ball- 
room, and one thinks that a few miles away there is a city of 
hundreds of thousands of people who would think it contamina- 
tion to sit at the well-spread table, you understand how wide is 
the chasm which separates the life of the governing and the 
governed. 

January 5. — The Municipality of Benares presented an 
address at 12.30 p. m. They welcomed the Prince to the most 
sacred city of the Hindoos, justly regarded and famous as the 
seat of their religion, philosophy, and learning, and associated 
from time immemorial in their minds with all that was pure and 
holy in their faith. Thousands of the devout annually assembled 
to worship there, maintaining under British rule the fullest free- 
dom of their rites and ceremonies. They recognized in the 
Queen qualities as great as those of the Monarchs of Benares 
commemorated in the Hindoo epic, the "Mahabharatam." They 
thanked her Majesty for the personal assurance she had given of 
her interest in India, conveyed by the Prince's presence, and 
they watched his progress with unflagging interest. The Prince 
replied that it was a great pleasure to be thus received in the 
centre of all the nations and people of Hindoo origin, and to 
hear from those who knew them so well the feelings of their 
countrymen in all parts of India that under the British adminis- 
tration they enjoyed in the fullest freedom rites of worship 
according to the usages of their faith, and that privilege which 
was highly appreciated, perfect toleration. He would convey to 



THE LAST OF THE TARTARS. 345 

the Queen their expressions of loyalty and gratitude. He was 
convinced it would give her sincere pleasure to learn that they 
appreciated the peace, contentment, and prosperity they en- 
joyed. 

Before the Prince left Camp to-day there was an incident 
which deserves mention though it attracted little notice. " From 
an early hour" (as the chroniclers of the time have it), "six 
natives — venerable in aspect, not over splendid in attire, but 
bearing themselves like men conscious that they were not of 
common clay, might have been observed in the vicinity of the 
Royal quarters." The address by Mr. Carmichael on presenting 
them will explain better than any words of mine who they were, 
and the reason of their presence. He said : — 

"The six gentlemen whom I present to your Royal Highness, Mirza 
Mahomed Sneed Bukht, alias Peary Sahib, Mozuffer Bukht, Nadir Bukht, 
Mouzoodeen Bukht, Rahemoodeen Bukht, Mahomed Mohsur Bukht, are 
lineal descendants of Mirza Jehan dar Shah, heir apparent to Shah Alum, the 
last independent King of Delhi and of the Timour dynasty ! 

" Shah Alum was desirous that his second son (called, when he reigned, 
Akbar Shah Saiee) should succeed to tlie throne. Hence a bitter feud arose 
between Jehandar Shah, the eldest son, and his father, and the former had to 
take refuge first at the Court of Lucknow, where a stipend was assigned to 
him for his maintenance by the Oudh Government, and later, in 1788, the 
British Government gave him and his family an asylum at Benares, making 
over to them for their residence the extensive range of buildings on the river 
face, called Shivala Ghat, and which had been sequestered for the rebellion 
of Cheyt Singh. The Prince Jehandar Shah died in May of the same year, 
and his descendants have since lived on the bounty of the British Government. 
As they have increased in numbers (the stipends which were many of them 
personal) have necessarily but ill sufficed for their maintenance. They are 
therefore in anything but comfortable circumstances, but still maintain their 
dignity, and are universally respected. They have ever been most loyal and 
grateful to the British Government for its protection and support. 

I am told that the buildings in which they live are tumbling 
about their ears ; and that poor as the owners are, they have de- 
pendents still poorer, who swarm around the place. Charity thrives 
in India. Hindoo and Mohammedan have vied with each other 
in past times in works which good political economists would 



34^ THE PRINCE OF WALEs' TOUR. 

assure them were of evil influence on society ; and the foundations 
for keeping in idleness, if not in competence, men, women, and 
children, which are so common, attest the greatness of their 
liberality and largeness of their sympathies. 

After a levee for the district, European and Native, the Prince 
laid the foundation-stone of a new Subscription Hospital in 
Benares, halting on the way to hear the native pupils of the 
College, under the care of the Church Mission, sing, which they 
did very prettily. 

The Prince then visited the Raja of Vizianagram, and inspect- 
ed the Town-hall, which has been built by the Raja in commemora- 
tion of the Duke of Edinburgh's visit. Thence the Prince pro- 
ceeded to the famous Temples. It was necessary to walk to these 
edifices, as the streets are so narrow that it is with difficulty one 
can make room for the Sacred Bulls, which may be met at any 
moment taking a constitutional walk. To guard against the pos- 
sibility of insult, and to prevent the crowding and " mobbing " 
which are not unusual where the visit of a Royal person is not 
quite so great a novelty, the buildings were cleared. 

The Golden Temple and the Sacred Pool (which is a foul 
pool, covered with green scum, and emitting poisonous vapors 
of sulphuretted hydrogen), were duly inspected. These and the 
Great Temple of Ganesa, on ordinary occasions are thronged with 
priests, fakirs, pilgrims, devotees from all parts of India ? but 
they were now carefully swept of " the perilous stuff," and there 
were only a few trusty Brahmins to exhibit the shrines, bulls, 
and holy places, under the guardianship of a strong body of 
police. The shops, where they sell the infinite varieties of brass 
idols, and flowers which are offered to the deities, were open. 
Among prints on the walls was recognized, not without merriment, 
the portrait of a celebrated French actress, who might be doing 
duty for the terrible helpmate of Shiva. Along the passages 
were stalls for the sale of the appropriate offerings to the god. 
It is strange that people under the influence of this faith should 
be mild and tolerant — that the female population should be 
remarkable for the exercise of every domestic virtue — chaste, 



RAMNAGAR. 34/ 

faithful, devoted to their children. Of their tolerance the best 
proof is afforded by their indulgence of the missionaries who lift 
their voices aloud against their idolatries under the shadows of 
the Temples. 

The Prince drove thence to the Dourga Khound, in the sub- 
urbs. The monkeys cluster all over the pinnacles and ornaments 
of the Temple, which is painted with red ochre to imitate the 
color of blood. They are very ugly impudent monkeys — red- 
haired, plump, and filthy. Too much familarity has bred in 
them contempt for men, and they menaced the strangers with 
chattering and open mouths ; but when they saw that their at- 
tendant priests were full of civility, and were preparing to feast 
them with parched grain and small parcels of sweetmeats, they 
came swarming down to the ground to the number of a hundred 
and fifty or two hundred, old and young, to partake of the offerings. 

Shortly before sunset the Prince embarked in a handsome 
galley, with two sea-horses at the bow, which was towed by a 
steamer to the old fort of Ramnagar, four miles up the Ganges, 
where the Maharaja of Benares received the Prince on a canopied 
and garlanded landing-stage. It was the grandest and most 
characteristic reception possible. The river-bank was blazing 
with the twittering oifeux dejoie; the air lighted up by the dis- 
charges of artillery from the ancient parapets ; the battlements 
of the fort were illuminated. Silver flambeaux and torches were 
held by people on parapets, walls and river-banks, which were 
as light as day. Preceded by mace-bearers, spearsmen, and 
banners, the Prince and the Maharaja were borne in gold and 
silver chairs, on men's shoulders, up the ascent from the river 
to the castle gate, between lines of matchlockmen and cavalry. 
Elephants, accompanied by wild music, marched on the left, 
shootee sowars rode on the right. Before the massive gateway, 
flanked by men in chain-armor, the Maharaja's infantry present- 
ed arms. There in the courtyard was a line of elephants, bear- 
ing gold and silver howdahs. In another courtyard were 
assembled the retainers and the officials of the household, who 
received the Royal visitor with profound salaams. The Mahara- 



348 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

aja led the Prince up stairs, where, after the usual presentations 
and a short conversation, a long file of servitors laid examples 
of gold brocade of the famed kinkob of Benares, Decca muslin, 
and costly shawls at the Prince's feet, while the Maharaja sat, 
like a benevolent old magician in spectacles and white mus- 
tache, smiling, in his hall, with his hands joined in a deprecat- 
ing way as each tray was laid on the ground, as though he would 
say, "Pardon that unworthy offering!" The Maharaja then 
conducted the Prince to a room where other beautiful presents 
were laid out on tables. In a third room a rich banquet was 
served, which was untouched. 

The Prince mounted to the roof inside the parapet, whence 
a most marvellous scene presented itself. The surface of the 
Ganges was covered with tiny lamps, and, laden with these, the 
current flowed beneath the castle wall down towards Benares, 
and the little earthen vessels, bearing their cargoes of oil and 
wick, sparkled and glittered quite wonderfully. It seemed as 
though a starry sky were passing between banks of gold, for 
multitudinous Bengal lights were burning on the shores. The 
display of colored fires from 'the walls of the castle and the ex- 
traordinary effect of the many-colored flames on the mass of 
armored men and on the upturned faces of the people evoked 
repeated exclamations of delight from the spectators. The 
river was flecked with fire. Imagine two miles of terraces rising 
from the water to temple and shrine, lit with oil-lamps, " packed " 
as close as they could stand or hang ! Every line of masonry of 
minaret, mosque and temple was marked out in light. The black- 
ness of myriads of figures, set against vivid sheets of flame from 
the Bengal lights, gave a demoniacal aspect to the crowd. The 
Prince and party floated down the river from Ramnagar, pursued 
by flights of fire-balloons, to the landing-ghaut at Benares, where 
the carriages were waiting. Thence they drove to dinner to the 
camp, a distance of nearly six miles. The road was brilliantly 
illuminated. 

January 6. — The special train was ready*at the temporary 
station, not far from the camp, at 8 a. m. The Maharaja of Be- 



FYZABAD. 349 

nares, the Raja of Vizianagram, the Chief Justice and Judges, the 
Magistrates, the Major-General commanding the division, the 
aides-de-camp and staff were present. When the Prince was 
leaving, the Maharaja tendered iiim the last best proof of regard 
— his own walking-stick — a stout shillelagh, with a gold handle 
and gold studs. 

Travelling nearly all day to Lucknow. The scenery by the 
Oudh and Rohilcund Railway does not offer much variety. The 
country is a dead level, no great rivers, and not many streams, 
to bridge. Hitherto the Prince has visited regions blessed for 
many years by peace. Now he enters upon the scenes of great 
troubles, where traditions of the retribution inflicted on rebellion 
are recent, where confiscations and deposition have left many 
bitter memories, and where the fanaticism engendered in holy 
cities and by famous shrines keeps alive religious antagonism. 
At Fyzabad, the ancient Awadiah (Oudh), one of the most holy 
cities in India, which is much favored by monkeys, where the 
train arrived at i p. m.. Sir George Couper, the Chief Commis- 
sioner, staff, the magistrates, and officials, and Major-General 
Maude, commanding the district of Oudh, and his staff, received 
the Prince, who made a short halt at the Station, and then con- 
tinued his journey to Lucknow. There was little to note on the 
way ; but Oudh is less prosperous — to look at — than it was in 
1858. Major-General Chamberlain and the Lucknow officials 
received the Prince at the Charbagh Station at 4.40 p. m. The 
cortege set out for the Royal head-quarters,-with an escort of the 
13th Huzzars, and made a fine show on its way ; Fane's Punjau- 
bees (now the 19th Bengal Cavalry), and the various regiments 
belonging to the Station, and strong force of Oudh police, lining 
the roads, the sideways of which were filled with crowds of 
natives. Lucknow has fairly been improved off the face of 
the earth. Hundreds of acres once occupied by houses have 
been turned into market-gardens. Swarded parks, vistas, rides 
and drives, far prettier than those of the Bois de Boulogne, 
spread out where once were streets, bazaars, palaces. They are 
like oceans beneath which thousands of wrecks lie buried. It 



350 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

was just possible to recognize Banks' Bungalow — now the resi- 
dence of the Chief Commissioner — once Outram's head-quarters; 
but the approaches to it baffled all attempts of memory. 

January 7. — A guard of the 65th Regiment, covered by a 
body of police, were on duty all night around the Bungalow. 
There was a native levee at 1 1 a. m. Next there came a European 
levee. The Prince then drove to the Dilkoosha. H^ was much 
interested in the building, which was the scene of interesting 
events at the two reliefs of Lucknow, and asked particularly 
about Peel's Battery, and the room in which the gallant sailor 
lay wounded ; but the Dilkoosha is unsafe to enter. Thence 
the Prince drove to the Martiniere. He descended to the vault 
where lie the remains of Claude Martin, a native of Lyons, " a 
simple soldier who died a general,'.' and who bequeathed an 
enormous fortune to charitable purposes in the land where he 
ga-ined it. Then he mounted to the roof, commanding a view of 
the country through which Clyde advanced to the relief of the 
Residency. It is much changed, owing to the destruction of 
houses and vilages. On his way back his Royal Highness drove 
round by the walls of Secunderabagh, and past the Kaiserbagh, 
through the Wingfield Park. 

In the afternoon he laid the foundation-stone of the Memorial 
to the natives who fell in the defence of the Residency, which owes 
its origin to the happy idea, and its execution to the munificence, of 
Lord Northbrook. At 4 p. m. the 14th Regiment, the 65th Regi- 
ment, the 6th Bengal Native Infantry, the 41st Bengal Native In- 
fantry, the G Battery, 19th Brigade, Royal Artillery, formed three 
sides of a square round the mound on which the Memorial is to be 
placed, just outside Aitken's Post, where the natives who fought in 
defence of the Residency were chiefly engaged. The survivors of 
the native defenders, who had been collected from Oudh and other 
parts of India, were near at hand in their old uniforms. Among 
those were old Ungud, the famous -spy, and Canoujee Lall, the 
companion of Kavanagh in his daring venture, looking as young 
as he did in 1858. Sir George Couper, addressing the Prince, 
said they were assembled to honor the memory of the native 



MEMORIAL TO LOYAL SEPOYS. 35 1 

officers and soldiers who fell in defence of the place, the ruins 
of which they saw around them. The behavior of the Sepoys of 
Lucknow was simply without parallel in the history of the world. 
Under Clive at Arcot, Sepoys underwent great privations for 
their European comrades ; but their fidelity was not tested like 
that of the men who resisted the adjurations of their brethren, 
comrades, and caste-men, not fifty yards off, calling them by 
name to desert the alien and infidel. Had they deserted. Luck- 
now must have fallen, and thousands of trained soldiers would 
have been free to march on Delhi. The loss of the Empire 
might not have been the result, but the difficulties of the handful 
who held the Ridge would have been enormously increased. 
Less distinguished services had been commemorated at the cost 
of the nation ; but it was at his own expense that the illustrious 
nobleman who represented the Prince's Imperial mother in her 
Eastern dominions had directed the erection of the monument. 
That humble scene and scanty gathering would be historical, 
for this monument to Indian fidelity, bravery, and worth, would 
stand as a memento of the Prince's presence, and would be re- 
garded with pride by Englishman and Asiatic alike when splendid 
pageants and stately ceremonials had been forgotten. 

The Prince said that he had been requested by the Viceroy 
to lay the foundation-stone of the Memorial which he proposed 
to erect to the memory of the brave soldiers of the Native army 
who fell in defence of the Residency. He had great pleasure 
in giving effect to that request, and he was glad to have a share 
in doing honor to the memory of the gallant men who had set 
such a noble example of fidelity and of devotion to duty. It 
was not necessary for him to dwell on their deeds ; history had 
celebrated them. Lord Northbrook, in erecting a monument to 
these soldiers, had done what would be gratifying to the whole 
army. As they passed it, on their way to or from their camps, 
European soldiers — officers and men — would feel they had in 
such men as those whose deeds were commemorated, comrades 
worthy to stand by their side' in defence of the Empire, and 
Sepoys would feel proud of the honor done to the valiant sol- 



352 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

diers whose courage and faithfulness reflected such lustre on 
their race and country. 

The Prince then took the trowel, spread the mortar featly on 
the stone, which was lowered into its place, gave the magic three 
taps with the mallet, and declared it well and truly laid. The 
ceremony was over, but a happy unpremeditated thought of the 
Prince suggested that the veterans should be presented to him. 
The delight of the men when they were told of the honor in 
store for them was expressed in brightened eyes and trembling 
lips. They were led up by Major Cubitt, one of the gallant 
officers under whom they had served. There were some who 
had their grievances, and would have liked to take such a golden 
opportunity to say a word about their pensions. One murmur- 
ed audibly, " Fourteen rupees a month, Shahzadah ! It is not 
much, is it ? " Another, led in by his sons, nearly blind from a 
wound, exclaimed, " Let me see him ! " The Prince, understand- 
ing what he meant, told the officers to permit him to approach. 
The veteran, with his hand to his turban at the salute came quite 
close, peered into the Prince's face, drew a deep sigh, and said, 
" I thank Heaven I have lived to see this day and the Prince's 
face ; " but when he felt that the Prince had taken his hand he 
burst into tears, and was led sobbing away. " One touch of 
nature makes the whole world akin." Taking all the circumstan- 
ces and surroundings into consideration, the scene was most 
touching. When the Prince left, he had the satisfaction of know- 
ing that he had rejoiced the hearts of the old soldiers by his 
kindliness. He would not allow them to be hurried by ; he 
spoke to each one, ragged as he might be, squalid or unclean. 
. The generation which once thrilled with anguish or pride at 
the names of Lucknow, Cawnpoor, and Delhi, is growing old. 
The visitor may be inclined to dismiss the memories of those 
days as evil dreams when he hears" the words of welcome and 
sees the rejoicings for the son of the Empress of Hindostan ; 
but signs and- tokens of that time of trial are around him, wheth- 
er he will or not ; they crop up in the language of the most 
guarded addresses ; memorial churches and pillars bear witness 



FAITHFUL AMONG THE FAITHLESS. 353 

to them ; gardens and clearings, where once were multitudinous 
populations, tell what followed the outrages and crimes of that 
unhappy time. 

After dinner at the Chief Commissioner's, the Prince, accom- 
panied by Sir G Couper, drove to the native entertainment 
given in the Kaiserbagh, once the Palace of the Kings of Oudh, 
and now the chef lieu of the offices of Government, a vast stretch 
of buildings covering more ground than the Louvre and Tuileries 
together. He was welcomed by the Talukdars in the Throne- 
room with " their modest tribute of allegiance and gratitude, 
which they fondly hoped he would accept as a fit emblem of the 
fealty of the Talukdars." This was a crown set with jewels.* 

A great procession of these nobles made obeisance. Names 
were heard which brought back memories of troublous days — ■ 
names of both friends and foes : the Raja of Bulrampoor, Bul- 
wunt Sing, Prithee Poll Sing, and the like ; now and then the 
title of some Sikh noble cropping up, and reminding us that land 
had been confiscated and that fidelity had been rewarded. After 
a time. Major Henderson stood forward, and expressed the 
pleasure of his Royal Highness at meeting so many native gentle- 
men, and his regret that time would not permit his making the 
acquaintance of each. The Prince then passed to the hand- 
somely-canopied veranda outside the grand saloon to see the 
fireworks. These had quite a distinctive character ; no spas- 
modic flights, or intermittent outbursts, of rockets, but continued 
activity — Catherine-wheels, fountains of fire, revolving-wheels, 
and balloons. The gateways, courts, and vast quadrangles were 
illuminated. A banquet was laid, to which the Prince paid a 
short visit to please his hosts. The natives crowded in to see 
the Europeans at table. Soon after ii o'clock his Royal High- 
ness left amid native salaams and European cheers. 

jfaniiary 8. — An excursion was arranged for " pig-sticking " 
in a place where, although the country is rough, the sport could 
be enjoyed in perfection. The name of Onao will be remem- 

* The address is given in the Appendix. 
23 



354 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

bered by those familiar with the history of 1857-8. The Prince 
rode hard ; but the English horse has little chance with the boar, 
as the latter turns like a hare. There were many falls ; some 
had two. The " pigs " showed great courage, fighting fiercely, 
charging savagely, and inflicting considerable injuries on the 
horses. In one run a boar, hard pressed, "kinked" (turned 
sharply round), and ran under the horse ridden by Lord Caring- 
ton, which came down heavily. Lord Carington's left collar-bone 
was broken. Fortunately, Dr. Fayrer was close at hand — the 
bone was set — the patient carried to a shady grove, where he 
was put in a comfortable dooly, and thence borne to the hunting 
camp, where he was the object of the kindest care and attention. 
After luncheon " in the wild wood," the sport was continued, 
and many pigs were killed before the day was over. 

The news that Lord Napier of Magdala had broken a collar- 
bone, in consequence of his horse falling with him, came to swell 
the list of casualties. The accident to the General-in-Chief 
caused great regret, and it was feared that he would not be able 
to take the field ; but the telegrams represent him to be as ready 
to do so as if collar-bones were superfluous or needless articles 
in his human economy. 

January 9 {Sunday). — The native press is very active here, 
if not always very happy in its references to European ways, 
names and manners ; and there are several gentlemen in con- 
stant observation, note-book in hand, wherever the Prince goes. 
One of the native papers, at the end of a list of the suite, gave 
an account of " the attendants who take their meals in the mess- 
house of the first-class," to some of whom were attached amus- 
ing descriptions. " Bartlett Sahib, who discerns the qualities 
of Indian things" (Naturalist) ; "Jed Sahib " (Mr. Mudd), "who 
ascertains the qualities of vegetables " (Botanist), &c. They are 
hopelessly lost, however, about the Duke of Sutherland's pipers, 
who contribute so much to the effect of the state dinners on 
solemn occasions. Some of the old pensioners, Canoujee Lall, 
Ungud, and others, came to Camp and sat for their portraits to 
Mr. Hall, before the departure of the Royal party to Delhi. 



NATIVE LUCKNOW. 355 

The Prince attended Divine service in the pretty church near 
Banks' Bungalow. At 4 p. m. he drove once more to the ruins 
of the Residency, descended at " Fayrer's House," and went 
over it with the former occupant and stout defender of the 
position, -from whom the post takes its name. Revisited the 
. lines and sites of the batteries, and the cemetery, where rest, it 
is believed, the bones of Sir Henry Lawrence, and of the men 
and women and children who died during the investment. He 
thence proceeded by the river-side to the Iron Bridge by which 
Lawrence returned from Chinhut, and which Outram crossed to 
attack the city. After enjoying the view along the banks of the 
Goomtee, he went by the Victoria road to the Alumbagh, where 
he examined Havelock's monument. Most remarkable changes 
have been effected in the neighborhood and in the city by whole- 
sale demolition ; but some things have been done which can 
scarcely be justified, unless it be maintained that it is our duty 
to keep alive bitterness of feeling, and to remind Mohammedans 
that they are subject to a race which despises what they rev- 
erence, and desecrate what they consider holy. It may be right 
to convert the Kaiserbagh into Government offices and store- 
houses, and to appropriate the Chuttur Munzil (where, by the by 
there was a very charming ball given by the club to the Prince, 
during his short sojourn in Lucknow), but the stolid indifference 
to native feeling manifested in the treatment of the Imambarra 
cannot be justified at all. Store away guns and ammunition 
there if you like ; use the Mosque as church or chapel ; but keep 
the place in decent order, root out the grass on the roofs, and 
remove the numbers and inscriptions in black and the hideous 
whitewash on the walls of the buildings. If we ever lose India, 
it will be from " want of sympathy." 

The Prince did not visit the Native city. The Chandni Chowk, 
or main street, is too narrow to be traversed by carriages; 
elephants are too high. The Duke of Sutherland, Lord A. 
Paget, and several others of the suite walked through the ba- 
zaars and the principal thoroughfares. Kite-making and kite- 
flying flourish as of yore. The local authorities have had to 



356 -THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

prevent the ruinous results of betting on kites, skilled flyers 
being backed like horses in England. The people were inclined 
to be civil, but there is not a very cheerful air about them ; and 
Lucknow, or what is left of it, has fallen from its high estate. 
There are still a few of the artificers who abounded here in the 
days of the Native Court — when Lucknow was like Paris under 
the Empire — workers in gold and silver, makers of curious 
jewelry, enamellers and pipe-stick embroiderers, workers of fili- 
gree ornaments, excelling in the inlaying of iron with silver, and 
these exhibited their wares every morning at the Commissioner's, 
and found many purchasers. They admitted that they liked the 
good old days, and that they did not admire being improved off 
the face of the earth. Altogether I doubt if Lucknow is quite 
friendly, whatever Oudh may be. ^ 

January lo. — The Prince drove to Cantonments, to present 
colors to the ist Battalion of the 8th Foot, a regiment with 
grand traditions, bearing a Royal -Tiger as its badge, and 
among the names on its colors " Bhurtpore." The ceremony, 
enlivened by music, and a hymn sung by the bandsmen, was 
watched with great interest by crowds of Europeans and Asi- 
atics, and it was followed by a march-past. Two batteries of 
artillery went in an admirable manner. The 65th Regiment 
and the 14th Regiment did well, but they were eclipsed by the 
6th Native Infantry — a splendid battalion, in handsome uniform, 
large turbans. Zouave trousers, and white gaiters — of which 
Colonel Holroyd might well be proud. The 41st (or Gwalior) 
Native Infantry, in blue and red turbans, gray facings with 
white lace, did not attract so much attention. 

The Prince drove from the Chief Commissioner's house, 
attended by the authorities, after lunch, to continue his progress 
to Delhi, and was received at the Station with the usual hon- 
ors. Having taken leave of Sir George and Lady Couper, to 
whom he expressed his sense of the pleasure his visit had af- 
forded him, and having recognized the chief persons present, his 
Royal Highness proceeded on his journey. At 2.15 p. m. the spe- 
cial train left for Cawnpoor, and at 3.35 p. m. stopped near Onao to 



CAWNPOOR. 357 

take up Lord Carington, who, a little pale, and with his arm in a 
sling, was certainly not in the least degree less cheerful. Pig- 
sticking has now led to three casualties, and has left its marks 
among the suite. Shortly before 4 p. m. we came to the hummocky 
grass-lands which border the Ganges. As the train swept over 
the stupendous bridge which spans the great flood, the spire of 
the church of Cawnpoor, and a few bungalows and trees came 
in siglit. The Secretaries to the Government of the North-West 
Provinces, two of the Lieutenant-Governor's personal staff, the 
Major-General commanding the district, the Inspector-General of 
Police, the Judge, the Magistrate, Mr. Prinsep, ladies and 
gentlemen admitted by ticket, were on the platform of the 
Station, which is some distance from the city. The Prince 
drove first to the Memorial Church, which was still gay with 
Christmas emblems inside, and walked round the building, 
reading the inscriptions, without being " mobbed." The 
tombs outside the Church and the site of Wheeler's intrench- 
ments were next examined. The clearances here have been 
on a vast scale also. The intrenchments have been levelled, 
the barracks pulled down. From Windham's Ute de p07tt to the 
Memorial Church, nothing is left of the Station as it was in 1858, 
so one looks for ancient landmarks in vain. But in lieu of 
compound walls and bungalows there are fair parks, fine drives, 
and beautiful gardens, due, I believe, to Colonel Yule. The 
carriages were in request again, and after a drive from the site of 
the old Cantonments, stopped close to the gateway, which no 
unauthorized Native may enter. There the Prince got out, 
and the party walked to the building which marks the 
place of the fatal Well. There was deep silence as the 
Prince read in a low voice the touching words " To the 
memory of a great company of Christian people, principally 
women and children, who were cruelly slaughtered here, 
— the name of the great criminal and the date of the massacre 
are cut round the base of the statue. No two persons agree as 
to the expression of Marochetti's Angel which stands over the 
Well. Is it pain ? — pity ? — resignation ? — vengeance .? — or 



358 



THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 



triumph ? The Prince then walked to the cemetery, hard by, 
examined the graves, and expressed pleasure at the neatness of 
die ground. He gathered some leaves from a shrub by the grave 
of Woodford, a gallant soldier who fell in Windham's engage- 
ment with the Gwalior Contingent, and left the scene of these 
sad events just ere nightfall for, the residence of Mr. Prinsep, 
where his Royal Highness was entertained at dinner. 

It was nearly lo p. m. before the special train, with pilot engine 
in front, started for Delhi. The carriages were very comfortable ; 
and if his Royal Highness has such accommodation as is due to 
his rank, the suite do not travel badly. With blankets and pil- 
lows, " the hardy traveller " can manage to make a night of it, 
and wake up in the morning refreshed by sleep. 



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" HEALTH TO THE BROKEN COLLAR-BONE I 




THE REVIEW AT DELHI. 



CHAPTER XL 

IMPERIAL DELHI. 

The Royal Entry — The Camp — The Review — The March-past — Criticisms — 
Selimghur — The Kootab — Houmayoun's Tomb — The Manoeuvres — 
Cavah-y Field-day — Lahore — The Punjaub Chiefs — Return Visits- 
Reception at Jummoo — Games and Pastimes — The "Alexandra" Bridge 
at Wazirabad — Lahore — Sikhs chez eiix — Umritsur — Agra — Procession 
to Camp — The Chiefs — The Taj — Excursions to Futtehpoor, Sikri and 
Sikundra— Visit to Gwalior — Scinciia's Review — Rock of Gwalior — Re- 
turn to Agra— Bhurtpoor to Jeypoor — The first Tiger — Amber City — 
Departure from Jeypoor. 



January ii. — "Delhi! We shall be there in ten minutes!" 
It was true, indeed ; we were close to the Imperial City ! Delhi 
gained in one night's unconscious travel from Cawnpoor ! There 
rose before us the fair frontage of Selimghur, the minarets of 
the Jumma Musjid. In a few minutes more the train was cross- 

359 



360 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

ing the Jumna by the noble bridge, worthy of comparison with 
that over the Ganges at Cawnpoor. 

The arrival at Delhi and entry of the Prince were attended 
with a pomp and circumstance well fitting the place and the 
occasion. The morning was all that could be desired ; the 
breeze enough to dissipate the dust, and the temperature quite 
agreeable after the coldness of the night air. Inside the Station, 
Lord Napier of Magdala, the Staff of the Army, a glittering 
crowd of authorities, and officers of British and Native regiments 
of all arms, a guard of honor of 100 of the Rifle Brigade and 
100 of Rattray's Sikhs. A Battery, 19th Brigade R.A.,- fired a 
salute. The escort consisted of A Battery of the A Brigade, a 
squadron of the loth Hussars, and one troop of the 4th Bengal 
Cavalry. The procession was formed almost immediately ; the 
Prince, in a Field-Marshal's uniform, with Sir H. Davies on the 
left, and Lord Napier of Magdala on the right. Major Brad- 
ford, Lord Suffield, the Duke of Sutherland, and Lord Alfred 
Paget, abreast ; the Staff four abreast from left to right, three 
deep in front ; the suite in Royal carriages. Lines of soldiery, 
extending five miles, kept the route to the camp. From the 
Railway Station to Lothian road, the nth Bengal Lancers, 7th 
Bengal Cavalry, 15th Hussars and 15th Bengal Cavalry. The 
esplanade was lined by C Battery, 19th Brigade ; A Battery, 8th 
Brigade ; B Battery, 8th Brigade ; and 6th Bengal Cavalry ; in front 
of the Jumma Musjid were the 5th Regiment and the 28th Pun- 
jaubees. As the Prince came in sight, the immense multitude, 
which had been sitting on the flight of steps leading to the grand 
gateway of the Temple, rose as by one accord. The Chandni 
Chowk was lined by the 31st Punjaubees, the Gzd Foot, the 5th 
Foot and the 26th Punjaubees, the 6th Foot, the 8th Foot, and 
the 85th Foot, the 32d Punjaubees, the 12th Foot, the 15th 
Sikhs and the 45th Sikhs (Rattray's). Then outside the city the 
nth Hussars, 6th Bengal Cavalry, Central India Horse, 39th 
Foot and 51st Foot, 8th Native Infantry, and three batteries 
Royal Artillery. On the famous Ridge were six ''green" regi- 
mente in line; the ist Punjaubees, the 60th Rifles. The Prince 



THE CAMP AT DELHI. 36 1 

did not forget to notice either the stone monument, or the 
regiments which had actually fought upon the very ground they 
occupied before him — the living witnesses of the deeds by which 
the power of the Empire he represented was established. The 
2d Ghoorkas, on the right of the 60th Rifles, were opposite 
Hindoo Rao's house, which they held during the siege. The 
Prince stopped in front of the 2d Ghoorkas and expressed his 
pleasure at seeing them in such an appropriate place. The 
procession next passed, the 3d Ghoorkas and 4th Ghoorkas. 
Then the Sappers and Miners, a Mountain Battery, 33d Native 
Infantry, nth Native Infantry and the 73d Foot. The road 
from the Ridge was lined by the loth Bengal Lancers, the 4th 
Bengal Cavalry, two Batteries, and the loth Hussars. 

The Royal Camp was of grand proportions and beautifully 
ordered. The main street w^as formed by tents of great size, 
shrubs and flowering plants lining the edges of the avenue from 
end to end — the Royal marquees and enclosure at the extremity 
— in front, a parterre and a towering flag-staff ; lamps before 
each tent; a sward as level, if not as green, as an English 
cricket-ground. The loth Hussars and the Rifle Brigade, 4th 
Battalion, are the regiments nearest to the Royal Camp, which 
is a very proper arrangement, as the Prince is Colonel of both 
regiments. 

After a time, the Municipality of Delhi, all Native gentlemen, 
were introduced to present their address. They said that they 
esteemed it a privilege to be permitted to give expression to 
their feelings of profound loyalty and devotion to the person and 
rule of their gracious Queen, and, on behalf of the whole com- 
munity, of whatever race or creed, offered to his Royal High- 
ness a hearty welcome to their ancient city. Since the Viceroy 
announced the intended visit, they had been anxiously looking 
forward to the auspicious event. Delhi, though small when 
compared with great capitals, such as Calcutta, Madras, and 
Bombay, could claim attention for its antiquities and historic 
interest. "For more than 1000 years it has been the seat of 
dynasties, which have risen, flourished, and passed away, leaving 
16 



362 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

traces of splendor in the palace and the tomb, in mosque and 
temple, minaret and tower. Although no longer the seat of 
empire, it is flourishing. Three railways converge to it, develop- 
ing trade and industry. It is still the home of the language of 
Hindostan and the seat of learning." It is their earnest wish 
that his Royal Highness may retain pleasing recollections of his 
visit, and that the remainder of his tour may be as full of interest 
as the commencement has been. The Prince thanked them for 
their welcome, and said he had looked forward with pleasure to 
his visit to their ancient capital, abounding in the earliest monu- 
ments of Indian magnificence and recollections of the greatest 
historical interest. The natural position of the city in the centre 
of Hindostan, where so many great lines of railway converge, 
must ever render Delhi one of the most important points in our 
Indian possessions. He was glad to meet them there, and much 
gratified in being able to convey to the Queen his assurance of 
the appearance of reviving prosperity in a city so famous and 
beautiful. 

To the Englishman, Delhi represents merely the centre of a 
military system, which from time to time finds here its point of 
concentration. It is almost forgotten that it was but a short 
time ago the seat of power of an Empire, the capital of a dynasty 
retaining Imperial honors and privileges, and inflicting upon 
those who guarded both, such slights as now seem incredible. 
To us the city has no historical worth except that its name is 
hallowed by the exploits and by the extraordinary tenacity and 
efforts of the army "which held on to it," by the advice of Sir 
John Lawrence, " like bull-dogs," until the hour of hard-won 
triumph arrived, and the wretched descendant of the Great 
Mogul was carried oif to a miserable captivity. But the Mo- 
hammedan and the Hindoo, whose memories are refreshed by 
ancient legends, and who love to dwell on the history of their 
past glory, having, in good sooth, no records of the present 
wherewith to be content, clothe the ruins of tombs and temples 
with an interest to which we are completely strangers. They 
have the heritage of the past divided between them in the endur- 



THE REVIEW. 363 

ing traditions of the great wrongs they wrought upon each 
other. 

A Levee, which was attended by many hundreds of officers 
of all grades and of civilians, followed the presentation of the 
address, at the close of which the Native officers were presented. 

Lord Napier of Magdala entertained the Prince at his own 
camp -J but ample as was his mess-tent, there was not sufficient 
room for all the officers who might have expected to meet his 
Royal Highness. Some of the suite joined the staff at table 
in the magnificent Head-quarters' mess-tent. Others dined with 
friends in the ever-hospitable camp. 

jfanuary 12. — This was the day of the grand Review, to 
which so many soldiers, civilians, and fair ladies were looking 
with the greatest anxiety ; and although the force, in comparison 
with that which one sees on any Schauplatz of the great military 
States in Europe was insignificant, it was for India a very 
respectable assemblage of all arms, the cavalry and artillery 
especially being excellent.* 

The appearance of the force was very fine. The brigades of 
infantry, compact and glittering, were in the front line, the 
regiments in double companies quarter-columns, in marching- 
past order, at thirty paces' interval. The cavalry regiments in 
quarter distance column at thirty paces' interval in the second 
line ; each brigade in rear of the centre of the division of in- 
fantry to which it was attached. The artillery at full intervals, 
with one line of wagons in rear, formed the third line. The 
sappers and miners, pontoon, and field telegraph train, formed 
the fourth line, with sappers on the right. The divisional 
generals were seventy-five paces in front of the centres, of the 
divisions, and brigadiers fifty paces in front of brigades. 

The Prince, who wore the uniform of a Field-Marshal, drove 
a couple of miles to the place where the horses were waiting 
under the charge of Mr. Prince. Cold as the night had been, 
and more than bracing as the morning air was, the sun waxed 

* For General Orders and list of Regiments see Appendix. 



364 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

hot by noon, and the clouds of dust which arose from the plain 
were blinding. On getting out of the carriage, the Prince 
mounted and rode off, and there was a general " scurry " to 
follow. The horses were fresh, and those that were led became 
more frisky than ever at the sight of their companions going'off 
full tilt. Before I was well in the saddle, my Arab reared, and 
then gave a buck-jump. He followed that up by another, which 
was unpleasant. " Give him his head, Sir ! " cried Mr. Prince. 
I did so, but quite in a different way from that which my adviser 
meant, for in a moment I was on the ground, with an unpleasant 
consciousness of not being sure that I had not broken some 
bones. I was enabled to mount another horse ; but I confess 
that, what with the effect of the shake, the heat of the sun and 
the weight of a helmet, I had but a very dim appreciation of the 
march-past. 

As the Prince appeared on the ground, the Royal Standard 
was hoisted, and a Royal salute given along the line ; the great 
crowd uttered a shout of welcome, and the fluttering of white 
kerchiefs from the dense line of carriages seemed like a ripple of 
surf against the background of the dark multitude. The Prince 
rode across to the right of the first line, and down the front, 
receiving the usual honors, bands playing, colors lowered, and 
so on, passing from right to left and left to right, till the inspec- 
tion was complete. That was a pretty sight, scarcely marred by 
the dust that would rise to obscure for a moment the brightness 
of the cavalcade in which might be recognized the plumed 
pickel-haubes of Count Seckendorff and two or three Germans, 
the simple uniform of three American officers, the aigrettes of 
the Nepalese and the jewelled turbans of Native Chiefs, amid 
the uniforms of the officers of all branches of the two armies of 
the Crown in India. When his Royal Highness had taken up 
his place near the flag-staff in front of the Royal enclosure, the 
march-past commenced. His Royal Highness was in front, so 
that he could be seen by all ; Lord Napier of Magdala, his arm 
in a sling, was on his left ; Scindia was at a little distance on his 
right, somewhat in the rear with two or three chiefs. The Duke 



THE MARCH-PAST. 365 

of Sutherland, Lord Keane {en bourgeois)^ Colonel Dillon, Mr. 
KnoUys, &c., were on horseback in the Royal enclosure, but the 
military members and officers of yeomanry or militia of the 
suite were massed at the other side nearly opposite the saluting 
point. When the signal was given, the first line began to move, 
and for an hour and a half the stream of horse, foot, and guns 
flowed before us ; and yet it would not have more than filled the 
muster-roll of a single foreign corps d^armee. As an officer said 
to me, "That arm^^is able to march from the Himalayas to 
Cornorin — from Madras to Bombay— but on one condition : the 
natives must feed it, and be ready to assist in the transport." 
There is no use attempting to discriminate and say what 
regiments appeared good and what bad ; but it certainly did 
strike those accustomed to European armies, that the proportion 
of British officers to Native regiments was perilously small. 
Without at all detracting from the merit and proved excellence 
of Native troops under certain conditions, one could not help 
feeling that it was dangerous at the very moment when we are 
crying out against the inadequate number of officers available 
for duty in British regiments at home, to trust Native troops so 
very much to their own officers. However, Lord Napier is not 
only content, but he is powerfully supported on the point by the 
arguments and experience of General Norman. As to the Native 
army generally, without disrespect, and in fact with something 
like admiration, one may say to it, with the bully in the play, 
who, entering a tavern, put his sword upon the table : " Lie 
there, good blade ! God grant that I may have no need of thee ! " 
It was interesting to observe that the Queen's officers, as one 
may call them for the sake of distinction, did not speak of the 
appearance of the Native regiments at all, while the Indian 
officers had no eyes but for their own corps. The officers who 
belonged to the old irregular cavalry, notably the Punjaubees, 
are enthusiasts about the qualities of their men and the perfec- 
tion of their organization, whilst the Queen's officers hold them 
in very poor estimation. Talking with a colonel of a crack 
English cavalry regiment, I was astonished to be told, in reply 



366 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

to a remark, " that the natives might surely be trusted on out- 
post duty," that they were the very worst men for that special 
duty he had ever seen ; that they never knew how to post 
sentries, vedettes, pickets, and grand guards, and that in case of 
active service before an enemy he would never lie down to sleep 
if he thought the outpost service were confided to Native cavalry ! 
With some recollection of what happened down in the Valley of 
Baidar on a certain week in October, I could not help expressing 
a hope to myself that things were altered "^or the better in our 
own army since that time. The army of India costs as 
much as the British arm}^, each in round numbers absorbing 
15,000,000/. per annum, and certainly for 30,000,000/. sterling 
there ought to be, for a time of need, a force upon which the 
Empire can rely with the utmost confidence. 

When the march-past was over, there was an advance of the 
whole force and a Royal salute, which had a very fine effect, and 
then the various arms marched off towards their camps. The 
great plain presented a most animated appearance. As to the 
camps spread out for miles, one thinks, when he sees them, and 
the towering elephants and hundreds of camels, the herds of 
sheep and goats, and multitudes of people, of a nation on the 
tramp — some great migration of a warrior horde. There is a 
method in all this apparent disarray ; the tents are pitched with 
the precision which long practice in India gives. There are 
great civilian camps, native camps and bazaar camps ; and the 
excellent plans issued by the Quartermaster-General's Depart- 
ment enable a stranger to find any corps he wants. These have 
their distinguishing colors and streamers, and the general effect 
as seen from an eminence like the Ridge is marvellously fine. 

Lord Napier and many generals and officers dined with his 
Royal Highness ; and the roll-call of the guests would have 
sounded well on the eve of any baTtle, albeit there were none 
who had fought at Solferino, Koniggratz, Gravelotte, or Sedan. 
Covers were laid for eighty. It was a right regal banquet ; but 
one could not help thinking that there was something nomadic 
in the idea of a high festival of the kind in a tent — a tacit con- 



A RIGHT REGAL BANQUET. 36/ 

fession that " we've no abiding dwelling here " — that our mansion 
is like the house kept by the strong man armed. And then there 
came a ball in Selimghur. The manner in which this famous 
palace was arranged reflected credit upon the committee for the 
ball ; but there were transformations not in the best taste, and 
adaptations which could scarcely have been grateful to those 
who had sympathy with ancient recollections. Selimghur has 
certainly not been improved by British occupancy. In the noble 
square stand red-brick barracks of amazing ugliness ; but it has 
escaped the fate of the Imambarra at Lucknow, certainly one of 
the finest halls in the world, which was built as a canopy to the 
tomb of a King of Oudh, our friend and ally. All the world has 
heard of the Dewan Khass, wherein stood the "Peacock 
Throne." " If there is a Paradise on earth it is this ! it is this ! 
it is this ! " But ideas of Paradise cannot be altogether realized 
in a pavilion filled with men in uniforms and evening dress, 
women in ball dresses, military bands playing Offenbach and 
Strauss, and, above all, a ceiling of a distressing color. Never- 
theless, when the dancing was at its height, and the dancers 
were seen whirling in the arched spaces, between rows of snowy 
columns, the scene presented by the marble " halls of dazzling 
light " was very brilliant. If the enjoyment of a succession of 
dances with charming partners, continued hour after hour, and a 
grand State supper could make men happy, there is no doubt 
the guests were in the most contented frame of mind when they 
were summoned to their camps and quarters to prepare, with the 
morning sun, for the manoeuvres, for which the two leaders of 
the contending hosts had already set out. 

January 13. — Whilst the force was preparing for the grand 
operations before Delhi to-morrow and next day, an excursion 
of a very interesting character was made to-day to the Kootab 
Minar, on the way to which the Prince visited the beautiful tomb 
of Suftur Jung. The road lies through a country which presents 
the strangest aspect in the world. Delhi, in the words of Cun- 
ningham, is surrounded by ruins " which extend from the south 
end of the present city to Toogluckabad, ten miles ; the breadth 



368 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

at the north is three miles, that at the south, four; Kootab to 
Toogluckabad, six miles ; the whole area being not Iress than 
forty-five square miles, covered with ruins." And who founded 
the cities and built the palaces and made the strong places which 
are now but dust, rubbish and heaps of brick ? The leaders of 
races who believed, each in his time, that his dominion would 
endure, just as we believe that ours must last for ever, or for as 
long as we wish. I was told that a recent English visitor, of 
some political eminence, was roused almost to fury by the sight 
of the magnificent monuments, because he did not know any- 
thing about the people to whose memories they were erected, 
and that he inveighed against the departed in that they were 
more honored in their tombs than European worthies ! The 
Mohammedan invasion, which established Shab-ood- Deen in 
power nearly 100 years after William had conquered England, 
found here a civilization to which our ancestors had then no 
pretensions. An abstract of English history, intended for 
Native schools^ came into my hands the other day, and I could 
not help thinking of the impression which must be produced on 
the reader by a summary of our wars civil and foreign, changes 
of dynasty, and violent deaths of kings. Kutb-ood-Deen, Nasir- 
ood-Deen, Toogluck, Feroze Shah, Baber, Shir Shah, Selim, 
Akhbar, Arungzebe — these are names not writ in water ; to 
many millions they mean far more than Alfred, Richard Cceur 
de Lion, Edward the Black Prince, or Henry V. do to us, and 
yet our millions know nothing of them whatever. 

At the Kootab there was a small camp pitched for the occa- 
sion. There was a military band, and lunch was laid in a 
large marquee. Many ladies were invited from Delhi. The 
Prince mounted to the summit of the Kootab, said to be the 
highest pillar in the world (it measures 238 feet in height), and 
viewed the wide-spread ruins of forts, tombs, mosques, and cities. 
He inspected the famous Iron Pillar, in which the natives still 
have a robust faith, in spite of practical demonstrations of the 
emptiness of it, and visited the well of Mehrowlie, where he was 
amused by the divers, who leaped into a pool eighty feet below 



THE KOOTAB. 369 

them. Each man, before he jumped_, threw a pebble to mark 
the spot, covered with green scum, which he intended to strike. 
The Prince, on his way back to the camp, stopped at Houmay- 
oun's Tomb, where the Delhi princes surrendered ,to Hodson 
and met their death. This mausoleum struck me as one of the 
finest monumental buildings I had ever seen, when I visited it 
in 1858. Sombre, massive, vast, it is doubtless one of the 
grandest piles of the kind in the world j the effect of the red 
sandstone, relieved by the snow-white marble, the noble terraces, 
exquisite filigree windows^ lofty walls, 290 yards long, is scarcely 
to be surpassed ; but it is falling somewhat into decay. In the 
great cemetery, around the magnificent mausoleum of Nizam- 
ood-Deen, which lies on the other side of the road to Delhi, a 
little nearer to the Kootab, are several fine tombs. Every 
traveller here has paid a tribute to the memory of the admirable 
Jehanara Begum, on whose tomb is inscribed the epitaph 
(translated) : 

" Let no rich canopy cover my grave ! " 
" This grass is the best covering for the poor in spirit 1 " 
"The humble, transitory, Jehanara — the disciple of the Holy Men of 
Cheest." 

"The daughter of the Emperor Shah Jehan." 

However, for all her humble prayer, the lady reposes in a 
fine sarcophagus, which is surrounded by a screen of marble. 
General Sleeman mistook "Cheest" for a holier name, and 
claimed Jehanara as a Christian. 

Delhi was illuminated, and the streets were crowded, as it was 
announced that his Royal Highness would drive through the 
principal thoroughfares to see the illuminations ; but it was just 
as well that he did not pass through the city, for there are still 
budmashes whom all the arts of Major Bradford's agents could 
not inveigle out of their dens. On his return to Head-quarters, 
the Prince, dressed in regimental uniform, dined with the officers 
of the Rifle Brigade, of which he is Colonel. 

Jajiuai-y 14. — The force under Major-General the Hon. A. 
Hardinge — supposed to be advancing from the Punjaub to seize 
16* 24 



3/0 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

on the Ridge, and to hold it until an army, with which it was 
obliged to keep open its communications by Kurnaul, could come 
up — consisting of seven regiments of calvary (Major-General 
Watson), divided into two brigades, under Colonels Hankin and 
Kennedy ; thirteen battalions of infantry, under General Michell ; 
Engineers, Pontoon train, and thirty-six guns, was in position 
about twenty-one miles north of Delhi, with its left on the Jumna 
and its right on Juteree, near the old Imperial road, to-day. A 
force of two brigades of calvary, of three regiments each, under 
Miller and Annesley, and of eleven battalions of infantry, with 
four companies of Sappers and thirty-seven guns, including one 
mountain and one heavy battery, under Lieut.-General Sir Charles 
Reid, moved out to meet the attack. 

Expecting to see a collision between Hardinge and Reid, the 
Prince drove in the afternoon to Alipoor, where horses were in 
waiting, mounted, and rode across the country. Operations 
commenced by Hardinge making a dash at a bridge on the Kur- 
naul road. Mounting eighty infantry on battery carriages and 
limbers, he opened fire on two guns, posted to defend the cross 
cut, which were covered by a regiment of cavalry. It may be 
doubted whether the cavalry could not have crossed the canal, 
taken the guns, and made short work of eighty isolated Riflemen. 
Hardinge seized the bridge, but there was no fighting. Reid did 
not intend to fight in the open. He scarcely made a show of 
defending the ground north of the canal. He was determined to 
stick to the Ridge whereon he had gained well-deserved honor 
in real warfare, so he intrenched himself, and left all the villages 
in front to Hardinge. It was no doubt a well-devised move, but 
it was not exciting ; Reid might have obliged the world with a 
cavalry fight. However, he did not do so, and scarcely a shot 
was fired from the time of the arrival of the Prince till 3 p. m., 
when the operations, according to orders, terminated. 

yanuary 15. — All were up and stirring to be on the ground 
in time, and soon after 10 a. m. the Prince and his suite were gal- 
loping over the plain towards the Jumna. Watson obtained leave 
from Hardinge to take his cavalry to his left and engage Miller's 



THE IMPREGNABLE RIDGE. 



371 



force. The affair, however, was not fortunate. There were forty- 
pounders on- the flank of Watson's horse, which were also ex- 
posed to field batteries as they advanced in column. The umpires 
put several squadrons out of action. Calvary, stopped by im- 
perious umpires with positive assurance that certain puffs of smoke 
in the remote distance had put man and horse to rout, were bv 
no means satisfied, for the results of actual practice near Delhi a 
short time previously tended to show that though where there was 







THE SHAM FIGHT AT DELHI — PERILOUS POSITION OF SOME OF THE SUITE.] 

smoke there was fire, it by no means followed that where there 
was fire .there was death. Meanwhile Hardinge reached the 
junction of the two roads with the canal. Stewart, to whom Har- 
dinge gave over the command of the infantry, considered he 
might yet establish himself on the Ridge. Hardinge, however, 
saw the defenders were in impregnable positions in his front. 
He was checkmated, and acknowledged it. 



3/2 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Soon after i o'clock there was abrupt cessation of firing. Har- 
dinge might have lost half his army by umpires' decisions without 
losing any credit with the general body of spectators, but he had 
demonstrated -remarkably the daring of those who seized on the 
Ridge in 1857, and the impotence of those who lost such a posi- 
tion. There was but. little knowledge of the va^ue of the troops 
to be gained from what we saw, but to many the operations were 
of intense interest. 

It is probable most of the spectators were glad that the fight- 
ing ended so soon — the troops engaged certainly were so, for 
the heat was not by any means agreeable. To the great foide 
the paramount attraction was the Prince's presence. Indeed, 
the position of his Royal Highness might be ascertained, not so 
much by the escort and staff around his person as by the crowd 
in eager chase, regardless of sun and dust, whose example was 
less impetuously followed by their cavaliers. Among one of the 
incidents on the way back to camp was the surprise of a party 
on an elephant, which suddenly became very restive and unruly. 
This was accounted for by the delivery of a brisk fire of mus- 
ketry from a party of native infantry in dust-colored (kharkee) 
uniforms, who, lying down close at hand, had not been seen till 
they actually began to fire. 

January 16 (Sunday). — At night the cold was enough to 
cause the fires in the tents to be very welcome. Thermometer 
340 at 6 A. M. Waking before daybreak, I walked out of the bed- 
room division, into the sitting-room, of my tent to light a candle. 
The fire was burning in the hearth, and I saw three figures, draped 
in white, seated motionless before it ; their backs were turned to- 
wards me. I paused to consider what they might be ; but ere 
the demand, in Hindostanee, "Who are you ?" ended, the three 
forms arose, towering as it seemed to a tremendous height, and 
vanished. They were three of the servants, who usually slept 
under the eaves and in the space between the outer and inner 
walls of the tent, and who, pinched by cold, thought they miglvt 
creep in and sleep by the fire. One of these, Jewanjee, has 
attached himself in a most artful and surreptitious way to my 



CAVALRY FIELD-DAY. 3/3 

establishment. I have seen him driven forth with vehemence, 
not to say violence on several occasions j but somehow or other 
he follows the camp from place to place, and will end, I am 
certain, by being placed on the fixed strength. There was rest 
in the camp all day. Divine service at head-quarters. Orders 
given for the departure of the party for Lahore, the baggage to 
be ready early to-morrow. 

yaniiary 17. — There is now an end of the Delhi pageant; 
in a day or two the busy city of canvas will have disappeared 
like a dream of the night, or a scene in a pantomine — the canvas 
houses will be packed up with their skeleton jDoles in commissa- 
riat stores ; the grand tents of the Prince will be on their way 
to Calcutta ; the regiments with their followers will be marching 
back to their stations ; the civilians and their families and friends 
journeying to their scenes of labor ; and all that will remain 
will be the eternal earth, the monumental Ridge, the wide-spread 
plains, the factor of x value, called the people, and many mem- 
ories. This gathering has naturally enough given an impetus to 
the discussion on a subject of the most vital importance, the actual 
condition of the Indian army. I am sorry to perceive, however, 
that " there is too much heat to permit the truth to coagulate," 
as one of the American officers remarked. As the Prince desired 
to see the division under Major-General Watson work in the 
open, a field-day for cavalry was ordered this forenoon. Three 
brigades, each three regiments strong, except the 4th, which had 
only two, were drawn up on the plain between the Kurnaul road 
and the Jumna. I cannot describe the movements, but it may 
be said the force was handled beautifully. When the brigades 
changed front to the left and formed in four lines for action, it 
was one of the prettiest sights imaginable. The flanks of the 
lines were carefully covered, in advance or retreat, every disposi- 
tion was made for mutual support. Successive charges of 
regiments in squadron were delivered, the front line retiring 
through the intervals, sustained by the next. A dash at tl^^ 
enemy's guns in extended order made under cover of a dismount- 
ed force, was not so happy, as man and horse closed too much 



374 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

together, owing to inveterate habit, when the moment came to 
charge. As soon as the movements were over, his Royal High- 
ness attended an amusing exhibition of soldiers' games and sports, 
tent-pegging, feats of arms, riding and polo playing. 

The pleasant time here has not been without troubles. Cap- 
tain Glyn is confined to his tent by an attack of dysentry. Bub- 
bur Jung is so seriously ill as to give rise to anxiety among his 
people, who naturally consider him to be about the most impor- 
tant person in camp, and both must remain here after we have left. 

The special train to Lahore left the Delhi Station before mid- 
night. The Prince was escorted by a great body of officers, 
headed by Lord Napier of Magdala, with whom he had dined. 
The roadway was illuminated, and a pretty fashion in vogue at 
the military festivals here, of having soldiers, each with a torch 
in his hand, to mark the lines of camps, was followed all the 
way. The ^x^2X personnel — suite, officers attached, servants and 
attendant natives — was safely stowed away, and the train moved 
off from the metropolis of the old Moguls out into the night, 
amid tremendous cheers, on its way to the capital of the short- 
lived dynasty of the Sikh. The arrangements of Major-General 
Browne were complete.. It was cold enough for all our rugs and 
wrappers, but when he comes, " Sleep is lord of all," and the 
clatter of the iron horse over many a famous battle-field did not 
disturb the weary travellers. 

January i8. — Lahore looked its best in the bright light of 
early morning as the special train slid up to the red cloth where 
the Governor of the Punjaub and the Military and Civil Staff of 
the Province, with a very large assemblage of Europeans, were 
waiting on the platform of the Railway Station which, ornamented 
with turrets and battlements, looks as though it aimed at being 
mistaken for a fortification. The Prince's cortege made a sweep 
round the town, passing the encampments of the Rajas of the 
Punjaub. Before each encampment floated the banner of the 
Raja to whom it belonged. In front stood in line, elephants, led 
horses in gold and silver saddle-cloths and jewelled caparisons ; 
the Chief's armed retainers, regular and irregular, lining the 



LAHORE. 375 

roadway. The roll of drums, blare of trumpets, and clang and 
outburst of strange instruments saluted the Prince. Lance and 
sword, morion and cuirass flashed, and all was light and beautiful. 
The very spirit of chivalry hovered over these martial faces and 
noble forms. Such might have been, but for that villanous 
saltpetre and those dastard fire-arms, a triumphant procession of 
Saladin or of Timour himself. The combination of colors forced 
the beholder to close his eyes for a moment and ask if it were a 
dream. Fenced in by this extraordinary pageantry, stood or 
squatted, silent, motionless, what some time hence will be desig- 
nated by Native reformers " the majesty of the people." It was 
also on house-tops and on walls, and seemed much taken with 
the aspect of its Princely brother, whom it was able to recognize 
by reason of the gold umbrella carried over his head in the 
Governor's carriage. The flat roofs and carved lattices give the 
city a strong resemblance to Cairo before the improvements nearly 
demolished the Orientalism of the most Oriental of cities. There 
is, however, an Orientalism which is not altogether Indian in the 
aspect of the town and people — a mixture of the Punjaub and 
Krim Tartary, Jewish faces and Tartar dwellings. 

There was so much to admire, that the way to Government 
House seemed very short — but it is four miles. Being an em- 
inently practical people, we have made the tomb of a cousin of 
Akhbar into a residence for the Lieutenant-Governor, but it is 
said to have been occupied by a Sikh General before Sir J. Law- 
rence obtained possession. The living found it very comfortable. 
There was a guard of honor of the 92d Highlanders, loo strong^ 
picked men, with pipers and colors, outside. As soon as the 
Prince had been introduced to the Lieutenant-Governor's family 
and Staff, and had changed his uniform, it was time to receive 
the address of the Municipality. They were ushered up stairs to 
the drawing-room, where the Prince stood in the midst of his 
Staff, and were presented by Sir H. Davies. The address was read 
by a Native gentleman."* It would have astonished members of 
an English Town Council to have seen their brethren of Lahore. 
* See Appendix. 



3/6 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

in turbans of the finest gold-tissue, brocaded gowns and robes, 
coils of emeralds, rubies, and pearls, finer than any Lord Mayor's 
chain, round their necks. 

A levee of European officers, officials, and private persons 
followed. When that stream ran out, another of a different 
character, far more sparkling and bright if somewhat more 
erratic, was turned on — a levee of the Native Chiefs. 

The reception of these gentlemen was interesting, because 
they were a new type of men, and, moreover, exceedingly pictur- 
esque and brilliant. First came the Raja of Nabha, a Jat Sikh, 
escorted by cavalry, honored with a salute of eleven guns, a 
guard of honor, and a band to play for him. He was met, on 
alighting from his carriage, by one of the Prince's aides-de-camp, 
and at the foot of the staircase by Major Sartorius who conduct- 
ed him up the stairs, all by " programme." He takes a great 
interest in his troops, on whose air the Prince complimented him, 
to the Raja's evident pleasure. Next came the Raja of Kupur- 
thulla, whom many remembered at Lord Clyde's camp in Oudh 
towards the close of the great rebellion, full of vigor, fond of 
sporting, and never better pleased than when he was entertain- 
ing officers at a grand shikar, but now so broken that he is 
scarcely able to take part in the conversation, although he speaks 
English with fluency. At 1.30 p. m. the Raja of Mundee, an 
eleven-gun Chief from the Hills, where he rules a State, at one 
time much disturbed by questions of succession, till one John 
Lawrence turned his eye upon them. The result was that there 
^wandered in indigent dignity about Simla an excellent gentleman, 
Meean Ruttun Sing, who must be recollected by visitors there in 
1858, and above all by Lord William Hay, to whom he rendered 
efficient service in suppressing incipient trouble. Poor man ! 
Some 300/. a year represented the whole of his allowance. He 
wrote a letter from Benares, years ago, the last I heard of him, 
v/ith an address, which, translated, read — " From the street 
of the Beggarman living over the gutter." The present Chief is 
a Sanscrit scholar, and encourages the students and professors 
of that language. 



THE PUNJAUB CHIEFS. 377 

The Raja of Faridkot, eleven guns, received at 1.30 p. m. 
The Raja of Chamba (eleven-gun man) put down for 1.28 p. m. 
The first is a Sikh, with a very nice little troop of soldiers. The 
second, a lad who takes great interest in affairs, came down to 
Delhi last year to assist at the Durbar. At 1.35 p. m. the Raja 
of Sukkut (eleven guns), a Rajpoot of the purest descent. Chief 
of a small State near Simla. At 1.50 p. m. the Sirdar of Kalsia ; 
at 1.52 p. M. the Nawab of Pataudi ; at 1.54 p. m. the Nawab of 
Loharu ; at 1.56 p. m. the Nawab of Dujana ; at 1.58 p. M. the 
Raja Shamshar Sing of Golar, a Hill Rajpoot, one of the best 
sportsmen in the Punjaub ; none of these latter entitled to guns, 
the first only being served to utter and pan by the Prince, the 
rest receiving it from one of the officers of his suite, and being 
conducted no further on their way than the foot of the staircase. 

Later in the day the Prince went to see the Jail, a model 
establishment abounding in ruffians. Among the latter must be 
reckoned a brace of Thugs, one of whom, aged 70, made the 
pleasant statement that he had murdered more than 250 people ; 
the other, who looked as if he might have equalled his great master 
if time had permitted it, said that he could only account for 35. 
The older gentleman, by way of experimentum in corpore nobili, 
gave, by order. Dr. Fayrer's wrist a twist, the effect of which the 
latter felt next day. 

The Prince next drove to the Citadel, and saw the sun set- 
ting over the broad plains and placid river from the tower from 
which the Lion of Lahore was wont to watch its rise. In the Ar- 
mory the Prince's attention was attracted by tiny cannon mount- 
ed on a revolving frame, which he was told belonged to Dhuleep 
Sing when he was a little boy, unconscious of the coming of the 
calm joys of Kelvedon and of the glory of the grandest bags of 
the season. At the Prince's request the toy was sent down to 
Bombay to be conveyed to England. 

January 19. — Although the Sikh and Hill Chiefs were in 
their persons, tents, equipages, and follovvings, perhaps the most 
picturesque persons of the various ruling classes summoned to 
pay their respects to the Prince, I daresay that an account of 



3/8 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

potentates of such limited political influence would not be read 
with much interest j in fact, I fear there have been too many de- 
tails of the sort. But what can one do ? There the Chiefs are, 
and for each there is a programme as strict as if he were King 
or Kaiser. Kalsia, Sukkut, Chumba, Faridkot, Mundee, Kup- 
purtulla, Nabha, Bahawalpur — names, — mere names ! yet the 
rulers of these little States exercise more moral control over the 
people than all our magistrates, except in so far as it is our Gov- 
ernment which is paramount to their rulers. Their tents ;> their 
henchmen ; their arrays of horse and foot ; their elephants, camels, 
musicians, these were of different degrees of magnificence ; but the 
ensemble was always striking, and their presents offered in diver- 
sity, if not value,^ a contrast to the uniformity of medals, arms, 
whips, books, &c., bestowed on them. In their Durbar tents there 
were fine chairs beneath canopies of cloth of gold, upheld by silver 
poles, and lamps, and chandeliers, and gaudy-colored prints ; 
the carpets were magnificent specimens of Cashmere and Per- 
sian work. When one thought of the money it must have cost 
to have got ready all that splendor, and to have carried it so 
far — ^from Mundee, for instance — and of the outlay on that mass 
of elephants, camels, and horsemen, and heard that the Chief 
was " hard up " before he came, it became subject for considera- 
tion whether the attendance would not be a cause of embarrass- 
ment hereafter. The absence of a Chief, however, would have 
been an affront, as with each " noblesse oblige." As their en- 
campments formed two sides of a triangle, at the base of which 
was the Mausoleum of Runjeet Sing, they might, if philosophi- 
cally minded, have set off their perfect security, and their im- 
munity from the chance of being devoured by some Lion of La- 
hore, against the expenditure on this peaceful display. The return 
visits to Chiefs, and the opening of the Soldiers' Industrial Ex- 
hibition at Meean Meer, o'ccupied the forenoon. By order of 
Sir G. Pollock, an immense quantity of Turcoman, Affghan, and 
Persian carpets, furs, pushmeena, puttoo, and various fabrics, 
was brought down for inspection to head-quarters. The Prince 
bought many articles, others following his example, till none were 



LAHORE. 379 

left, and the merchants went away the second day rejoicing. There 
were also Hill men, with the finest falcons I ever saw, hunting 
eagles, short-winged hawks, shaggy Thibetan mastiffs, rugged 
deer-hounds, to tempt purchasers, who had, however, to contem- 
plate the possibility of their conveying the bargains on board 
ship without buying the natives in attendance. Among the novel- 
ties of Lahore must not be forgotten a char-a-banc^ drawn by six 
dromedaries. How they were driven it is beyond me to say, but 
I know the leaders had a knack of turning round now and then 
to see what those who were behind were about. 

Lahore has not increased in magnitude or in prosperity since 
it came under our rule ; but it was decaying before Runjeet Sing 
gave it importance as the seat of his newly-established empire. 
Certainly if Lalla Rookh were to visit it now she could see noth- 
ing at all like what met her eye in the poet's dream, where " mau- 
soleum and shrines, magnificent and numberless, affected her 
heart and imagination, and where death appeared to share equal 
honors with heaven." The engines which scattered showers of 
confectionary among the people in the public squares are re- 
placed by the locomotive scattering hot ashes and pouring out 
steam at the station ; the chariot of the artisan, adorned with tin- 
sel and flying streamers to exhibit the badges of his trade, is now 
represented by a bullock-hackery. As to the great antiquity 
claimed for the city, some doubts are entertained by the writer 
of the capital little guide-book prepared for the Prince's visit. 
But the city, in his opinion, must have been founded between the 
first and seventh centuries of the Christian era. It was not till 
the reign of Akhbar that it attained its highest position as the 
centre of municipal activity. Jehangeer was fond of it as a resi- 
dence, and fixed his Court here in 1622. He was, however, at 
Ajmere when he received Sir Thomas Rowe, an emissary from 
King James I. 

In the evening there was a fete in the Shalimar Gardens : 
it was very cold ; but the illuminations of the gardens were ex- 
quisite — long, broad ribands of lamps illuminating lakes, cascades, 
and islands, whereon stood white marble kiosks and temples — 



38o 

and the entertainment gave great satisfaction. I wish there had 
been more time to dwell on the buildings and doings here, for 
they were of great interest. 

January 20. — Last night it was bitterly cold. Dr. Fayrer 
says that it was 29° in his tent. My glass went down below 
freezing-point. There was a " scuffle " to get off, orders were 
given to start at 8 a. m., and the servants, European and Native, 
were torpid. A guard of honor of the 92d, drawn up with their 
band and colors in front of the Lieutenant-Governor's house, 
looked very cold indeed, with blue noses and knees; and the 
officers went up and down stamping their feet. I can quite un- 
derstand, under the circumstances, the anxiety which has been 
expressed that the Prince might have some experience of the 
hot weather before he leaves. Indeed, if many of our friends 
had their way, they would use gentle violence to keep the Royal 
traveller in the Mofussil till " the rains " set in. Lord Ayles- 
ford, Lord Suffield, and Lord Carington remain at Lahore, owing 
to indisposition in the case of the two former, and in that of the 
latter to the accident from which he is fast recovering. There is 
a narrow-gauge line from Lahore to Wazirabad (twenty-six miles), 
of which the most that can be said is that it is better than no 
rail at all. The special train managed to reach Wazirabad in 
little more than two hours. Thence there is an excellent road 
along which the party drove at a rapid pace. The country is a 
dead level, with few trees and a scanty population, and the stee- 
ple of Sealkote Church is seen far off, rising like a light-house out 
of the sea. It is scarcely possible to believe that Sealkote is one 
of the very hottest stations in India, for there is a delusive ap- 
pearance of coolness given to it by the Himalayan ranges, 
crowned with snow, in the distance, and by the broad roads 
shaded with overarching trees, which lead to the Cantonments. 
The Prince lunched with the 9th Lancers, and then continued the 
journey to Jummoo, twenty-seven miles from Wazirabad. On 
the way there is little to notice except the increasing dignity of 
the mountain chain in front. A splendid species of Euphorbia 
was common, and small forests of acacia and of the Buteafron- 



THE RECEPTION AT JUMMOO. 38 1 

dosa dotted the plains along the roadside. It was 4 P. m. when 
the Prince, whose carriage was escorted by a troop of the 9th 
Lancers, entered the state of the Maharaja of Cashmere. An 
arch was thrown across the road ; at the other side a deputation 
of Chiefs was waiting to receive the Prince. Seven miles from 
Jummoo, then quite visible on a low-lying spur of the Snowy 
Range, — it is something like Aosta or Stirling as seen from the 
south, — the Maharaja himself appeared with his principal Sirdars 
and a magnificent sowaree, and welcomed the Prince to his do- 
minions. The cortege went at a rapid rate, but it was dusk be- 
fore we reached the Towee. On the near bank there was a vast 
number of elephants. The carriages, halted at the top of a ridge, 
and we could look down on the broad river, covered with boats 
pulled by rowers in scarlet and yellow liveries, and dotted with 
men floating on skins, below us. On the other side, up the steep 
ascent to the ancient walls and the city gate, were lines 'of cav- 
alry in armor, and of infantry. The old hill fort on the opposite 
side of the gorge was thundering out a salute, and astonishing 
Himalayan wolves and jackals. When the Prince, mounted on 
an elephant with the Maharaja, led the procession across the 
ri\ er, joyous cries, ringing of bells, firing of guns and the clang 
of music^ made an indescribable tumult. The road from the 
river-side up to the city, winding for two miles through roads and 
streets lighted up brightly, lined with the Maharaja's army, and 
filled with Hill people, Cashmerees, Lamas or priests from Leh 
and Ladak, Afghans, Sikhs, &c., presented 'iic most original 
types and spectacle. On the summit of the ridge above Jummoo 
was a huge building — carpeted, and hung with shawls, pictures, 
and mirrors — built expressly for the reception at enormous 
cost ; it was only roofed a few hours ago. This pile was so frail 
withal, that the walls shook when the salutes were fired \ and it 
was so damp, that his Royal Highness preferred the tents erect- 
ed on the elevated plateau, as a pis-aller close at hand, between 
the Palace and the city. 

It was dark by the time the Prince arrived at the Palace. I 
am not quite sure whether the presence of the detachment 



382 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

and band of the 9th Lancers was properly appreciated by the 
natives. Just as the dreadful noises produced by the instru- 
ments in which the Cashmerees rejoice cause Europeans great 
agony of ear, so did the former affect or really feel pain at the 
martial airs which the excellent band of the Lancers was per- 
forming. As the Prince's elej^hant was approaching the piazza 
in front of the Palace, the band, which had been in front, 
wheeled around and commenced to play " God save the Queen," 
but the sight of the great beast was too much for the horses, 
which dispersed, capering and plunging, in spite of their riders, 
and sending the air to the winds. After the usual Durbar and 
ceremonies, the Prince was conducted to a veranda outside the 
Palace, and witnessed a fine display of fireworks, representing a 
general action. Afterwards there was a monster banquet, to 
which all the Europeans in the enormous encampment were in- 
vited. 

jfafiuary 21. — Rain fell in the morning. A sporting party 
was arranged for the Prince, but it was not very successful. Al- 
though his Royal Highness killed some deer and pig, the display 
of native sporting was a failure. A cheetah let loose at a deer 
ran after a dog. Ths dog turned, and the cheetah fled. A lynx 
was slipped at a fox ; Reynard showed fight, and lynx and 
fox made up and were friends. Nor would the lynxes follow 
hares which were loosed for them ; but Puss received scant mercy 
from the falcons, which invariably succeeded in killing them. 
Afterwards there was polo-playing by the Baltee Hill people, who 
have an evil reputation on this side of the Himalayan slope. The 
players, mounted upon ragged ponies and attired in bright-colored 
silk, dividing into two parties, commenced the game ; the multi- 
tude yelled with delight ; but certainly there was no ground for 
approbation according to our notions. Pulwans, sinewy, active 
wrestlers, covered with oil, and very difficult to grasp, followed. 
Then spring-boards and two caniels were brought out. The 
athletes, taking a short run, threw somersaults clean over the 
camels, one fellow leaping finally into the howdah of an elephant, 
which declined to have a repetition of the feat. The drawing of 



GAMES AND PASTIMES. 



383 



nets in the river revealed the fact that the fishers of Cashmere 
inherit the arts of Cleopatra, for fish were found all ready fastened 
to their meshes by the gills. 

Procession was formed in the evening through the illuminated 




THE GUEST OF CASHMERE. 



city to the old Palace, where the Maharaja gave a dinner to the 
Prince and a small party of Europeans. Then there was a weird 
performance of a sacred dancing drama by the Lamas from 
Thibet, which rivalled the best shows of the Royal tour. More 



384 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

fireworks ended the entertainment, which presented many novel 
and curious features. 

yamiary 22. — " Baggage at 7 a. m. The Prince and suite to 
leave at 8." And thereupon, long before dawn, great clamor in 
camp ; for on all questions of transport, camels, elephants, and, 
above all, " natives," as they are called, express their feelings in 
very audible fashion— and frequently. Looked out at 6 a. m. 
It was very cold — an eager nipping air. Sentries, dressed in 
long fur coats, above which peered bayonet and plumes, and 
beneath which slipper-like shoes beat tattoo on the ground, 
were inviting the earliest rays of the sun to thaw them into life. 
Yellow-trousered, blue-coated policemen came on the scene ; for 
it was feared that the shawls on the tables, and the satin resais, 
or coverlets of the beds in the tents, might be " conveyed " when 
we had left; and a hint was given by the officers in charge to 
the Cashmeree authorities. Wild Hill-men from Iskardo and 
Thibet ; falconers, carrying eagles, falcons, noble peregrines and 
hawks ; mountaineers, with dogs covered with hair as thick and 
coarse as the coat of a bear, cheetahs and Persian greyhounds ; 
live deer, heads and horns of yak-deer and antelopes, brought 
from all parts of Cashmere for the Prince, were arrayed in front 
of the Palace. 

Soon after 8 a. m. the Prince left Jummoo, in all the splendor 
of a state procession of elephants with magnificent trappings, 
and a grand "sowaree." His escort was furnished by the 
Maharaja's Cuirassier Lancer regiment, before which was borne 
a green and gold standard. There were bands of music with 
kettle-drums and trumpets six or seven feet along. All the 
people turned out to look at the show, which certainly deserved 
the compliment. At the appointed seven miles' distance from 
the town the Maharaja took leave of the Prince,, and expressed 
his deep sense of the obligation under which he was laid by the 
visit of the eldest son of the Queen. The Ministers and nobles 
came on to the British frontier, where there was a triumphal 
arch inscribed, " This road is for our illustrious Prince." The 
return was pleasant, if dusty, there being a short halt at Sealkote 



THE SIKHS CHEZ EUX. 385 

on the way. The Prince was called upon to perform an agree- 
able duty on his arrival at Wazirabad. He opened the grand 
bridge over the Chenab, which he named " Alexandra," after 
the Princess of Wales, crossed it pro forma, and returned to a 
lunch at the Station, where a banquet was set forth in a fine hall, 
handsomely decorated. 

The journey from Wazirabad was continued at 3.40 p. m., by 
special train. It was quite dark (6 p. m.) when we arrived at 
the Lahore Station. The citadel, public buildings and streets 
were illuminated. The Prince drove to Government House, 
and was glad to find that the invalids who had remained behind 
Were quite restored to health. His Royal Highness dined with 
the Lieutenant-Governor and Lady Davies, and went to the 
native entertainment, which was given at the College, in the 
Hall of which — a very fine room — a dais, covered with a scarlet 
carpet loaded with gold embroidery, v.'as erected at the end. On 
the right an excellent full-length portrait of the Princess of 
Wales, and on the left a portrait of the Prince, painted, as the 
inscription stated, by order of the Maharaja of Puttiala, to com- 
memorate the restoration of the Prince to health ; along the 
walls were coats of arms, banners, and the emblazoned shields 
of the Punjaub Chiefs, the inventive work of Mr. Kipling's 
pupils. Underneath each shield was a Punjaubee, representing 
the district from which he came, armed to the teeth, standing on 
a pedestal. When the Prince was seated, the givers of the ban- 
quet were introduced — Rajpoots, Pathans, Beloochees. Among 
the 120 Chiefs were descendants of the Great Mogul, members 
of the Royal family of Delhi, of the Royal family of Afghanistan 
(one of whom, Shahzadah Shahpoor, actually sat on the throne), 
descendants of Nanuk, the founder of the Sikh faith, and of 
Govind, who made the Sikhs a distinguished nation. Then a 
number of Natives received one by one from the Prince's hand 
commemorative medals, ribands and rewards. 

When the ceremony was over, the Prince ascended to the roof 
to witness the fireworks. It was worth miles of travel. The fort, 
parapets, and battlements illuminated, towered above a tumul- 
17 25 



386 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

tuous sea of heads, which seemed to roll against the fiery- 
barriers. The fireworks were heralded by fire balloons, which 
followed in a continuous stream, till the sky was loaded with 
novel constellations. People with naked swords, putting one in 
mind of Highland practices of a similar description, danced 
round great bonfires ; but they were too far off to be as effective 
as they were meant to be. The wind somewhat marred the 
1500/. worth of rockets, bombs, Catherine wheels, and fixed 
pieces, hissing, bursting, and blazing together, and out in twenty 
minutes. Eight Punjaubee girls in robes plated with precious 
metals and jewels were introduced, and, standing at some dis- 
tance from the Prince on the roof, sang an ode composed in his 
honor in very doleful monotonous fashion. The Prince and the 
European ladies and gentlemen were led to the supper-room, 
which was laid out with six tables, at each of which covers for 
ten were laid. The Chiefs retired as soon as the Prince was 
seated. The Prince was escorted by the Native gentlemen to 
his carriage, and drove through immense crowds along the 
illuminated roads back to his head-quarters. 

January 23. — Canon Duckworth celebrated Divine service 
at Government House, and the difficulty as to the choice between 
Lahore and Meean Meer in the matter of churches was thus 
happily solved. Later, the Prince, attended by the Lieutenant- 
Governor, by Mr. Thornton, and members of his suite, visited 
the Museum and other places of interest. 

yanuary 24. — The Prince left the hospitable mansion of Sir 
Henry Davies for Agra at noon. The garrison of Meean Meer 
and the Lahore Volunteers furnished guards of honor and troops 
to line the streets. " The Chiefs present in Lahore and the 
officers in charge," as the official programme calls them, were 
present in places pointed out to them by Dr. Thornton, who has 
been indefatigable in all kinds of official and unofficial ways to 
make things go smoothly, and has rendered many services to the 
strangers, which c^use them to feel great gratification at the 
news of his promotion. At the railway station Sir Charles Reid 
showed his plan of loading an ordinary train with artillery. In 



U 



UMRITSUR. 387 

twenty minutes Captain Hawkins's battery (86 men and 94 
horses) were placed in 17 ordinary wagons and 6 trucks at- 
tached to the Prince's train. Wlien the Prince reached Umrit- 
sur, the horses and guns were run out, and opened as if for ac- 
tion, to the great astonishment of the crowd of Natives, in five 
minutes after the arrival of the train. 

The Prince alighted under a salute from the fort, Govind- 
ghur, and drove through the streets to the building prepared 
for his reception. The route was lined and arched with ar- 
tificial cypress-trees, gilded branches, and garlands, with the 
inscription, " God bless our future Shah in Shah ! " and before 
every doorway were trays of rose-leaves. The Municipality — 
Sikh, Mussulman, and Hindoo — presented an address expressive 
of most fervent loyalty. The Prince afterwards visited the 
Church and the Mission School, where he was received by Mr. 
Baring, chief of the Mission. Several Native clergymen -were 
presented — one a brother of the Raja of Kuppartulla ; another, a 
well-known mathematical teacher; Emamadeen, a controversial 
writer. The great " sight " of Umritsur is the Golden Temple, 
wherein is the Holy Book or Grunt of Nanuk. Close by is the 
Temple, where all true Sikhs are or should be initiated. 
Multitudes assembled to see the Prince pass to the sacred place. 
Slippers were prepared for him, as the priests declared that he 
could not enter the Shrine without taking off his shoes. Several 
members of the suite visited the Shrine before the Prince's 
arrival. But it was considered inexpedient for the Prince to 
visit the interior, and he surveyed the Golden Temple from the 
terrace, in sight of the crowd, who salaamed respectfully. Pres- 
ents were given to the guardians of the Mausoleum at Lahore, from 
whom a curious epistle will be found in the Appendix,* and 
I think there was also a donation made to those of the 
Shrine at Umritsur. The journey to Agra was continued at 
dusk. 

It was close upon midnight when the train pulled up at the 

* See Appendix. 



388 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



Station of Rajpoorah, where the Maharaja of Puttiala was 
waiting to receive his guest. It may be assumed that some, at 
least, of the passengers in the Royal train were rather sorry 
when they were awakened by a braying of bands, the firing of 



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A CLOSE SHAVE WHILE THE TRAIN WAITS. 



cannon, and the glare of a great illumination. The Maharaja, 
whose diamonds one can well get tired of hearing about, but 
which are always pleasant to see, was surrounded by his Min- 
isters and officers. Carriages, guards of honor, and the Raja's 



ARRIVAL AT AGRA. 389 

troops were drawn up at the railway station. It is a very -small 
place, an ordinary roadside platform, but it was made very fine 
with garla,nds, lamps, transparencies, and scarlet cloth. A grand 
palace of canvas, hung with silk shawls and carpets, with 
mirrors, chandeliers, and engravings and pictures, room within 
room, had been prepared. The banquet was brought from 
Calcutta. After the health of the Queen, the Maharaja pro- 
posed the health of the Prince of Wales. Amid discharges of 
cannon and pyrotechnic outbursts, the Prince bade good-by to 
the delighted Maharaja, and continued his journey. 

yaiiuary 25. — The red walls and towers of the Fort of 
Agra came in sight a little before 4 p. m. The train thundered 
over the grand bridge which spans the broad Jumna, now mean- 
dering through beds of sand. Presently up rose the clamor, to 
which all are so accustomed, that, as the miller wakes up when , 
the clack of the wheel stops, so gentlemen who have been travel- 
ling so long to such accompaniments of music, voices, and can- 
non, consider something has gone wrong if they do not hear the 
familiar sounds at their arrival or departure, conscious though 
they be that not one note of sound or voice, not one grain of 
gunpowder is expended in their honor. The Commissioner, the 
Major-General commanding the Division, the Brigadier, the 
Magistrate, the Station officers, &c., were on the platform. The 
A Battery, 15th Brigade Royal Artiller)^, head-quarters and one 
squadron of the lotl. Hussars, two squadrons i6th Bengal 
Cavalry, and all the troops that could be collected in the Divi- 
sion were on duty. Along the road were stands and platforms 
belonging to Chiefs, communities, towns or districts in the 
Lieutenant-Governor's jurisdiction — Hindoo and Mohammedan, 
covered with tinsel, decked with streamers, and painted in the 
brii^htest hues in native fashion. In these, bands of musicians 
and spectators were seated. The names of those who erected 
the stands, and inscriptions bidding the Prince welcome and in- 
voking the blessings of God upon his head and upon his visit, were 
lettered upon them in Ordoo, Persian, or English. The pro- 
cession was of "truly Oriental pomp. The elephants, caparisoned 



390 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



with eji.traordinary richness, and painted in the patterns mos 
in approval among the professors of elephantine decoration, 
were told off to their places, according to a printed list, so that 
no mistake could occur. They put me in mind of the great ships 
which I saw long, long ago, when the Queen made her first 
naval inspection at Spithead. It was a proud beast which sa- 
laamed, and sank dov/n to the ground to receive the Prince. The 



B 


f 


J 




i 




1^ 




'^B 




ff^nlR 




>^^^^^^^^^ii 




Hlw '^^^HL^—Hli^H 




■ 




^^■1 





PAINTING THE PRINCE's ELEPHANT. 
{A Sketch at Gwa/ior.) 



howdah was of the richest fashion, and by reason of the um- 
brella and fans, and other apparatus of dignity borne by the at- 
tendants, the identity of him whom all had assembled to honor 
was plainly marked. Probably the mahout felt little satisfaction 
in knowing that he, one of the despised ones of the East, was 
the master of the wise and strong beast which was to bear so pre- 
cious a burden. As some Admiral, leading the van of his fleet, 



THE CHIEFS. 39 1 

amid great fluttering of streamers, discharge of cannon, and the 
cries of exulting multitudes, puts to sea, the Prince set out at 
the head of the magnificent procession, which was soon winding 
beneath the walls of the grand old fort. The members of the 
Government, the Chiefs and others, then fell in, so that there 
was a mighty train going up from the Jumna towards the camp 
But the wind blew high, and the dust was of the most aggravat- 
ing density and profusion, obscuring much of the brilliancy of 
the spectacle, and giving no small discomfort to the spectators 
as well as to those who took part in it. In front escorts of the 
15th Bengal Cavalry and of the loth Hussars. But why did 
not the bands play ? Nothing could have been more inspiriting 
or have given greater finish to the procession than the perform- 
ance of martial flourishes and music of triumphal and joyous 
character. The camp, pitched on the old ground w^hereon the 
cavalry action was fought on the morning of Greathed's arrival 
with the relieving force from Delhi, was spacious and splendid, 
like that we have seen at Benares, and almost as grand as that 
we had just left at Delhi. ^ When the Prince's elephant arrived 
in front of the Durbar tent, it faced round, and the elephants o: 
the suite, following, wore, tacked, and ranged themselves in a 
curved line on the right; the European authorities, civil and 
military, Nawabs, Rajahs, and Sirdars passed in review, saluting 
the Prince — a coup de theatre well conceived and admirably exe- 
cuted. 

January 26. — From " an early hour," which means any 
time last night, tomtom-ing, growling of camels, neighing of 
horses, trumpetings of elephants, and the infinite variety of 
tumult which vexes the dweller in tents, raged round the Head- 
quarters' Camp ; and as morning dawned, trumpet flourishes, 
bugle calls, and drumming attested the presence of British horse 
and foot. By 10 o'clock the maidaii (or plain) outside the camp, 
access to which was strictly guarded by sentries, was crowded ; 
and Agra poured out its thousands. The levee was well man- 
aged, people were told what to do before admission to the pres- 
ence ; but some leaving their shoes at the door by which they 



392 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

entered, had difficulty in finding them on their exit, an inconveni- 
ence as great to natives as if Europeans were left without their 
hats. Comfortable and capacious as the tents are, the interior 
must appear poor to eyes accustomed to colored-glass chandeliers, 
huge mirrors, golden canopies, brocades, and gaudy-colored en- 
gravings ; but as one said, the presence of the Prince " makes 
them glow with light." After the levee fourteen Chiefs were 
received. At 11.30. a.m. seventeen rounds for the Maharao 
Raja of Boondee, whose cortege whirled up the main street 
amid blinding clouds of dust, with an escort of cavalry, three 
aides-de-camp, irregular horse, and retainers on foot in singular 
costumes. The Maharao," in his day a noted hunter, is a Tory 
Chief, a Rajpoot of the bluest blood, intensely Conservative, and 
a fine specimen of a native gentleman. The Prince won his 
heart by remarking that he heard the Maharao had attended a 
Durbar held by Lord William Bentinck, and had witched him 
by noble deeds of horsemanship. After him came the Raja of 
Bikaneer — a Lord of the Desert, whose capital is separated 
from the nearest road by 200 miles of rolling sand, which he 
and his retinue had crossed in the only ships which can navigate 
such seas — the famed camels of Bikaneer. The Raja has been 
to Benares, Lucknow, and Delhi ; -and has seen railways and 
steamers. Next was the Maharaja of Kishengurh, wh®se capital 
is exposed to novel influences, for the Rajpootana Railway now 
runs past it ; the Chief has devoted himself to irrigation, and 
has executed tanks and other public works of great utility. It 
would surprise Lord Lake if he heard that a Maharaja of Bhurt- 
poor should visit a Prince of Wales at Agra ! His army is well 
drilled ; his State well administered ; he breeds fine horses and 
keeps up a good stud. When the Maharaja took leave his face 
was radiant, for the Prince promised to have a few hours' duck 
shooting in his preserves, and this was honor indeed. After 
Bhurtpoor the Chief of Ulwar paid his respects — a good-looking 
lad, who sits his horse as if he meant to stick to it, and who 
plays "Badminton." He is a minor, but he has the learned 
pundit Munphool for his tutor ; at the head of the State is an 



. THE TAJ. 393 

approved good administrator, Major Cadell, V. C, assisted by a 
Council Regency. The Ulwar stables are good, the stud well 
selected, and English sires have been purchased to strengthen 
the stock. The Nawab of Tonk is Chief of a State which 
few persons in the Midland Counties, or even in Lancashire, 
ever heard of, and yet the Nawab's family rendered great ser- 
vices in the time of trial eighteen years ago. The Chief is re- 
markable for his hospitality to English travellers. He has a 
library and a good collection of arms. The Rana of Dholepoor 
followed, a bright-looking lad, who is being educated by Major 
Dennehy, to whom he seems much attached. The Maharaja of 
Oorcha, a hunter and sportsman, followed ; after him came the 
Nawab of Rampoor — a poet and a invalid, whom the Prince in- 
vested with the insignia of the G. C. S. I., which he would have 
received had he been able to have attended the Calcutta Chap- 
ter. The Rao Maharaja of Duttia, who resides in a fine old 
fort, was next presented ; then the Maharaja of Chickaree, son 
of the Chief whom Lord Canning in Durbar styled " Faithful 
among the Faithless." Last came the Raja of Tehri, the 
Maharaja of Shalpoora, and the Jagirdar of Alipoora. 

In the afternoon the troops of the Nawabs and Rajas passed 
before the Prince — a strange melange of elephants, camels, horses, 
bullocks, men such as Alexander might have led into captivity, 
knights in armor, artillery drawn by oxen, for an hour and a 
half. In the evening the Prince, after a banquet at head-quarters 
went to an evening party given by the Lieutenant-Governor in 
the Fort, which has been restored to a decent condition, and 
after a pleasant dance and supper returned to camp. 

January 27. — The Prince paid return visits to the fourteen 
Chiefs. When these visits were over, his Royal Highness drove 
through the suburbs, and after dinner he went to see the Taj 
illuminated. 

Most writers who have tried their hands at a description of 
the Taj set out with the admission that it is indescribable, and 
then " proceed to give some idea," of it. I do not know how 
many of the fair ladies present agreed with Colonel Seeman's 

17* 



394 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

wife, who said to him, " I cannot criticise, but I can tell you what 
I feel. I would die to-morrow to have such a tomb!" Holy 
and profane men, poets, prosers, and practical people all write 
of the Taj in the same strain. " Too pure, too holy to be the 
work of human hands ! "■ — " a poem in marble ! " — " the sigh oE 
a broken heart ! " — " poetic marble arrayed in eternal glory ! " 
— " the inspiration is from heaven — the execution worthy of it ! " 
But the Taj, with 7000 spectators — 7000 people who came to look 
at the Prince of Wales looking at the Taj ! Well, it played its 
part to perfection. 

Ascending the terrace, the Prince walked over to the shelter 
of the dark gateway of the mosque. Gradually there grew out, 
in all its fair proportions and beauty, framed in the purple of the 
starry heavens, the marble " Queen of Sorrow," which has power 
to dim every eye. Then trooping into the illuminated square 
came a band, and forthwith the soft tender notes of " Vedrai 
carino " floated through the night air. It may be doubted if 
Moomtaz-i-Mahul, or "the Exalted One of the Palace," would 
have quite approved of the music. However, Mozart was better 
than the maestro whose compositions next challenged the ears of 
the company. But the' eye mastered every sense, and the loveli- 
ness of the Taj stole over the soul. In spite of blue lights, and 
lime lights, of lively dance music, of clank of spurs and sabres 
on the complaining marble, there was not a point which the peer- 
less mausoleum could make, which was for an instant marred or 
lost. Entering the tomb itself — the culminating glory— the 
party stood and gazed, almost trembling with admiration. Pres- 
ently a clear, sustained note rose up into the vaulted roof of the 
tomb, and there found its counterpart, and the two commingled, 
swept upwards, and soared away, " till naught remained 'twixt 
them and silence." Again and again the notes soared, and the 
auditors stood breathless. Then came a few chords in sweet 
unison from four or five singers, but to my ear the effect was not 
so impressive as that of an old Moulvie's voice reading prayers 
when last I was there. That grand, grumbling chant awoke 
echoes which sounded like the responses of some vast congre- 



THE TAJ. 395 

gation. The interior has been swept, garnished, cleaned, and, 
as far as can be, restored. If Shah Jehan could come back to 
earth, it is not too much to suppose that he would thank Sir 
John Strachey for the labor of love which has stayed the hand 
of the spoiler. 

Moomtaz-i-Mahul died in childbirth of her eighth child. Peo- 
ple have taken lately to abusing her husband and his times ; but 
it may be recollected that about that very period of the world's 
history England was not quite a paradise ; that we had a Star 
Chamber and other comforts for the conscience ; were busy per- 
secuting people we did not like ; were preparing for a civil war 
and for the execution of our King, and were by no means in a 
condition to justify us in throwing stones at the builder of the 
Taj. We have done better since; and if there be no Taj or 
Sikundra to put to our account, we hope we can say that our rule 
has, in the words of De Quincey, conferred on India "gifts 
higher by far than Mogul gifts of palace or serai, roads or tanks 
■ — the gifts of security, order, law, and peace." 

After such a sensation, the Holy Jumna, with its placid bosom 
gemmed with star-like lamps, could offer Little attraction. It was 
nevertheless pleasant to look down from the terrace and watch 
the tiny boats of earthenware, large as a coffee cup, bearing their 
cargoes of oil or cotton-wick, on the placid stream which multi- 
plied their fires in the mirror of its waters ; to look across at the 
wide expanse of gardens and kiosks, minarets, cupolas, and 
domes, writing their occult characters on the blackness of the 
night, and then to let the eye turn slowly on the Taj. There were, 
thank goodness! "for this occasion only," no fireworks. It 
was near midnight before the Prince was minded to quit the 
place. 

yanuary 28. — The Prince rose early, but there was a good 
deal of what is called "rousing out" before the sportsmen were 
ready to start. The Maharaja of Bhurtpoor keeps a " sanctuary " 
of jungle, and had made arrangements to give his Royal High- 
ness good sport. He met the Prince near a beautifully-arranged 
hunting camp. The "bag " consisted of eighty head. Anothei 



396 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

party went out pig-sticking. There were plenty of bears seen, 
but the country was bad, and there were no " spears." 

In the evening there was a grand ball in the Fort. One may 
question the fitness of the Dewan Khass and the Dewan I-Aum 
for balls, and suppers, but the scene was beautiful, and, though 
associations are rudely dislocated, these balls are as agreeable 
to the Prince, who is able to gratify so many Europeans, as it is 
agreeable to them to have an opportunity of seeing the Prince. 

jfanuary 29. — An excursion to Futtehpoor Sikri, a wilder- 
ness of stone, " attesting the vigor of Imperial selfishness and 
the futility of human aspirations." The road was guarded by 
escorts of 15th Bengal Lancers and the loth Hussars. Fifty 
years did not elapse from the building of the city till its abandon- 
ment to owls and jackals. The Prince was shown round the 
temples by the eleventh descendant of the very fakir whose tomb 
constitutes the principal attraction to the natives. 

January 30. — The Prince attended Divine service at 11 
o'clock. Sir J. and Lady Strachey, and the ladies and members 
of his household, and the various officers on duty and visiting 
the camp, formed a sufficiently numerous congregation under 
a large canopy in front of the Lieutenant-Governor's tents. 
Canon Duckworth officiated. On the right stood a squadron of 
the loth Hussars, mounted ; on the left a detachment of the 
Rifle Brigade. The native servants gathered in the rear, attract- 
ed by the ceremony ; but, as the preacher spoke of the approach 
of the time when Christianity shall have taught all men to love 
each other, the business of the camp went on as usual ; sentries 
paced up and down, orderlies galloped to and fro. Our little 
ship was leaving no track on the waters. The Prince, after 
lunching with Lord Mark Kerr and officers of the loth Hussars, 
drove to a convent distinguished for good works, and visited the 
Christian schools and various other educational institutions. 
Sir Dinkur Rao had a long interview with the Prince. 

The afternoon was devoted to an excursion to what is per- 
haps the grandest, as the Taj is certainly the most beautiful tomb 
in the world — Sikundra, six miles from camp, where lie the re- 



AN EXCURSION TO SIKUNDRA. 397 

mains of Akber (or Akhbar, or however else his name may be 
spelt) to whom India — Hindoo and Mussulman — accords the 
title of " Great," apparently with every reason. The road still 
shows the coshminars (round stone pillars), every two miles^ 
which were erected along the Imperial Mogul routes, extend- 
ing to Lahore, more than 700 miles from Agra. Near each 
was a watch-tower, and there were halting-places, and serais, 
and wells for travellers along the road. A grand gateway 
gives access to a garden, in which is the Mausoleum of red sand- 
stone, 300 feet square, built in five stories, each diminishing from 
the base to the marble story at the height of 100 feet. Every 
terrace is ornamented with an arched gallery and cupolas, said 
to bear relation to the division of the Empire, over which he who 
rests below once ruled in dignity and power. Without going so 
far as Mr Bayard Taylor, who considers Sikundra nobler in con- 
ception and more successful as an embodiment of Saracenic art 
than the Alcazar or Alhambra, it may be admitted that it stands 
among the grandest monuments of any kind ever reared by 
man. 

Not more than 250 years have elapsed since it was finished. 
The son of the Queen of that England which was then represented 
in this land by a few adventurous merchants and mariners, and one 
or two wandering travellers, whose greatest wonder was that they 
were there at all, now stood before the sarcophagus within which 
lie the bones of the fourth descendant of Tamerlane, grandson 
of Baber, grandfather of Shah Jehan — stood there acknowledged 
heir to the sceptre, which had been wdelded with such grandeur 
and might — ^future successor, if God wills it, to Akhbar the Great, 
whose titles one might read in the exquisitely carved inscriptions, 
ascribing to him " majesty and glory forever." It was a fitting 
scene for a sermon on the rise and fall of Empires and on the 
vanity of human wishes. 

jfanuary 31. — The visit to the Maharaja of Gwalior was 
fixed for to-day, and as there is no railway it was necessary to pre- 
pare for a long journey by road, but the arrangements for posting 
the Royal party are, if possible, better than those for special 



398 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

train. The carriages were ready in the main street at 9 a. m. 
There were relays and change of escort every six miles. At 
Dholepoor, the capital of the native State, some thirty-five miles 
from Agra, the Prince was received by the youthful Maharaja in 
a palace not yet completed, built expressly for the occasion. All 
the resources of the host were displayed. Music and dancers, 
elephants, armed retainers, chiefs and horses. The Maharaja, a 
charming boy who speaks English well and delights in manly 
sports, became at once the friend of the Prince, who took to him 
greatly. There was a grand sowaree, and a dejeufier for the 
Europeans, &c. The Royal party at the border of the State 
crossed the Chumbul into Scindia's dominions by a bridge of 
boats. 

A cavalry escort was drawn up seven miles from Gwalior, 
the fortress of which had been in sight for a long time. Here 
Scindia received the Prince. Thence the cortege passed between 
lines of Mahratta cavalry to the entrance to the Lushkar (or 
" camp "), where infantry regiments were in line. The streets 
were thronged all the way through the city to the new Palace, 
where Scindia installed, his Royal visitor in much state. 

The Palace covers an area of 124,771 square feet, exclusive 
of the inner square, which is 321 by 32 ij^ feet. The build- 
ing is double-storied, and the wings and turrets are three and 
five storied. Its total length is 106 feet. The first story is 
Tuscan, second Italian Doric, and the the third Corinthian 
order of architecture. The interior of the Reception-room is 
97 feet 8 inches long by 50 feet broad, and it is 41 feet in height. 
The roof is arched with stone slabs 21 feet long, which enabled 
the architect to make the ribs prominent. They rest at each 
end on double Corinthian columns, which form a colonnade round 
the interior. The interior and exterior of the Palace form a 
combination of arcades and colonnades. Upwards of 300,000 
leaves of gold were used to decorate the Reception-hall. The 
Grand Staircase-room is roofed with stone slabs 30 feet long; 
the room opposite to it is roofed in the same way. This room 
was used for dancing. The length of each of these rooms is 50 



SCINDIA S REVIEW. 399 

feet. The Grand Drawing-room, one of the finest saloons in the 
world, is hung with wonderful chandeliers, and decorated with 
enormous mirrors. The Prince's bedstead, washing service, and 
bath were of solid silver. The cost of the Palace was a little 
above 1,100,000 rupees. But the garden-wall, iron railings, gar- 
dens, furniture, glass, grand staircase, chandeliers, &c., cost 
about 500,000 rupees more. The area of the Garden is about 
one square mile; there are several waterfalls and a number of 
fountains in it. In the Palace and inner square there are 106 
fountains and a waterfall. 

There was a British dinner at the Palace, followed by a grand 
ball. The appearance of the saloons was very bright and gay, 
and the representative of the Governor-General for Central India, 
Sir H. Daly, did the honors with great kindness and success. 

Febi'uary i. — There was a review of "the army of Gwalior." 
At 7 A. M. a salute announced the arrival of the Prince of Wales. 
The Prince and Scindia then rode down the line side by side, 
bands playing and colors lowered. Scindia rode at the head of 
a truly " brilliant staff." He wore a scarlet tunic, with gold 
facings, diamonds, and gems, and the riband of the Star of India, 
his cap blazing with jewels, and ornamented with an egret plume 
rising from a diamond socket. On the Prince's return to the 
saluting post, the march-past commenced. The band played up 
the Gwalior version of " Garryowen." First came the general 
staff of the Gwalior army ; sext Scindia, alone. As he passed the 
Prince he saluted with his sword. It is said to have been the first 
time he has ever made such an acknowledgment. He was fol- 
lowed by ten Staff Officers riding abreast. Next a troop of horse 
artillery, six-pounder smooth-bores, went by admirably in line. 
Another horse artillery battery followed almost equally well. 
Then came two nine-pounder field batteries, each gun drawn 
by six bullocks drilled to perfection, " with their humps dressei 
to a nicety," as some one said. Appia Sahib, Brigadier of 
Cavalry, and his staff followed. The first Regiment in the uniform 
of Close's old corps of the Gwalior Contingent, red tunics, buck- 
skin breeches, long boots, and Afghan turbans. The second 



400 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Regiment (regulars) blue tunics and red turbans; then a 
squadron of the 3d Regiment of Hussars ; the 4th Regiment of 
Lancers, in ultramarine blue uniforms, lance-pennons black and' 
red, completed the cavalry. Each regiment was 400 strong. The 
five battalions of infantry which followed were armed with old 
smooth-bore percussion muskets. The men were well set-up 
and steady. Scindia took three regiments of infantry and two 
of calvalry to the right, to entertain the company with a display 
of tactics. 

When Scindia galloped off to his sham fight, the Chiefs who 
were not attached to the corps rode up to the ground, and formed a 
very brilliant and interesting group close to the Prince. Their 
dresses were exceedingly beautiful ; and wonderful as they were 
in color — yellow, sky-blue, mauve, scarlet and pink — were 
matched with excellent taste. Some wore Damascened chain- 
armor armlets and thigh-pieces inlaid with gold. One Chief 
was in black satin surcoat, with bright red petticoat, chain-armor 
covered with gold plaques inlaid with pearls ; another wore neck- 
laces of pearls and emeralds over an enamelled breast-plate of 
fine steel, his satin cloak and coat trimmed with diamonds, ear- 
rings of emeralds and diamonds, and a waist-belt of precious 
stones gathering in his mauve pantaloons, and he sat in a saddle 
which appeared to be altogether of gold, with a cloth and hous- 
ing set with pearls, emeralds, and diamonds. Several of the 
horses had anklets of precious stones set in silver on the fore- 
legs — in fact as a predatory young gentlemen observed, " the 
plundering of any one of these Sirdars would set up a man for 
life." 

Meanwhile Appia, with the remaining infantry and cavalry, 
marched to the left, and took up a position, sending out a de- 
tachment of cavalry and guns to watch Scindia. Appia's guns 
were attacked by Scindia's cavalry ; whose infantry moved up 
to sustain the attack. Aided by the fire of the artillery, they 
checked Appia's horse which engaged Scindia's right and threat- ' 
ened to outflank him. After several pretty movements, Scindia 
was declared to have won the day. The Prince expressed his 



THE ROCK OF GWALIOR. 4OI 

satisfaction, and Scindia, overjoyed, declared that he would pub- 
lish the Prince's eulogium in general orders to his army. It 
was, in truth, a very creditable display — mais a qnoi bon ? 

In the afternoon the Prince visited the famous Fortress, and 
looked dow^n on the city and the plain where Sir Hugh Rose 
defeated Tantia Topee, and where the heroic, if cruel. Ranee 
of Jhansee met her fate — a soldier's death. The fortress, which 
contains some much venerated and dilapidated temples and 
shrines, some used as places of confinement for political prison- 
ers, overhangs Scindia's Palace and city very much as Edinburgh 
Castle imposes the town below^ ; but as long as the British hold 
the great military Station less than three miles away and the 
open country, the Rock of Gwalior possesses no military import- 
ance ; indeed, it is quite commanded by a ridge of similar forma- 
tion at the other side of the road to Agra. However, Sir H. 
Daly and others maintain that it is very useful to Scindia to have 
a British garrison there, as he is thus protected against his own 
army and his subjects. Then there was a state visit to Scindia. 
who held a Durbar in the old Palace. The most notable feature 
in the reception was the great number of Mahratta Chiefs and 
Sirdars of importance who w^ere present, and curious observances, 
such as the utterance in unison of a loud cry by the courtiers 
and the attendants (equivalent, ^« ^//, to "God save the Queen ") 
when Scindia rose or sat down. Towards the close of the inter- 
view, Scindia, addressing the Prince, said : — 

" I can command no language to express my gratitude for the 
honor the Prince of Wales has conferred upon me in thus visiting 
Gwalior — What can I say? On the Scindias who have preceded 
me many honors have fallen — but on none has there been honor 
like this. This day will never be forgotten in Gwalior. I have 
nothing to show worthy of his Royal Highness. My palace, my 
troops, what are they to him ? His attendance at my parade this 
morning in the heat and dust, the interest the Prince took in it, 
were out of his consideration for me. I am an ignorant man, 
almost without education. I know nothing of the English lan- 
guage. What I did this morning with the troops is an instance 

26 



402 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

of what can be done by observation and labor — nothing more. 
Again and again I desire to express gratefully my appreciation 
of the favor the Prince has shown me ; and when he sees the 
Queen, let him tell her from me, that I am, with hands clasped, 
her faithful servant forever. 

Scindia spoke these words with strong emotion and glistening 
eyes. After a moment's pause, turning to Sir H. Daly, he said : 
"One thing I would add. When the time comes for the Prince 
to ascend the throne, I hope he will remember Scindia." 

There was a grand banquet in the evening at the new Palace. 
At the commencement of dessert, Scindia, with ten of his nobles, 
entered, and was handed by Sir H. Daly to a seat on the right 
hand of the Prince. Shortly afterwards the Maharaja proposed 
the health of the Queen, and then the health of the Prince of 
Wales. His own silver cup was brought to him, and he drank 
the toasts in champagne. The Prince's replies, translated by 
Sir H. Daly, appeared to give Scindi-a very great pleasure. 

February 2. — Scindia came to the Palace at 9 a. m. to sit 
for his portrait to Mr. S. Hall, by desire of the Prince. At 10.30 
A. M. all was ready for the return to Agra, and the Maharaja tak- 
ing his Royal Highness by the hand, conducted him to the door 
of the carriage. On taking leave Scindia said : " It has been 
much to see your face, it is a grief to me that your'visit is so 
short, and that you go away. I can hardly hope to see you again ; 
but be this as it may, sometimes in England turn a kind thought 
to me. My state and everything I have is yours." The Prince 
replied, " that he should never forget Gwalior and the magnifi- 
cence of his reception, and that he knew he had a friend in 
Scindia." 

If Scindia could have uttered his heart's desire he would have 
probably said to the Prince : " Tell them to give me back my 
fortress." There can be no doubt that Lord Canning promised, 
in 1859, to restore it to him, but the plea of to-day for the non- 
fulfilment of the pledge is that Lord Canning did not promise to 
restore it at once, but made a proviso that the act should be per- 
formed at some convenient season. This is dangerous ground to 



BHURTPOOR TO JEYPOOR. 403 

take, especially if there is to be but one judge of the conveniency. 
The Prince, halting at Dholepoor to lunch on his way back 
to Agra, made an announcement, which was as agreeable to 
those who rejoiced in the good fortune of their companions as it 
was to the recipients, that the Queen would bestow G.C.S.I. 
on Major-General Probyn, Major-General Browne and Dr. Fay- 
rer, and the S. C.M.I, on Colonel Ellis, Captain Glynn and others. 
The party arrived at Sir John Strachey's camp as it was be- 
coming dark. There were charming evening amateur perform- 
ances in the Lieut.-Governor's tent after dinner on several occa- 
sions during the Prince's stay at Agra. 

February 3. — A day of repose for all but a small party of 
sportsmen who went twenty-five miles from Agra to ground where 
wild boar were numerous. In the evening news was brought to 
the Prince, who was dining with the officers of the 10th Hussars, 
that Prince Louis of Battenberg had been thrown while in full 
career after a pig, and had been found senseless and with a 
collar-bone broken. Every one regretted this, for Prince Louis 
is a great favorite. Dr. Fayrer set off at once, and after a long 
and cold drive in an open carriage, found the patient, who was 
tended carefully by Lord Charles Beresford. Pig-sticking assumes 
a high position on the roll of casualty-causing sports. Lord Car- 
ington, a broken collar-bone ; Lord Charles Beresford, teeth 
broken ; Lord Suffield injured by his own spear ; not to speak of 
falls, &c. ; but the pig-stickers are veritable Gallios, and pursue 
the sport whenever they can. Colonel Owen Williams has got 
his hand in, so have Colonel Ellis and Mr. FitzGeorge, and Lord 
Aylesford is intact. There are some who do not tempt the for- 
tunes of the field at all. On the whole, there are not so many 
people killed in the pursuit of pigs as in hunting the fox. 

February 4. — A special train of the Rajpootana State Rail- 
way was ordered for 8.4 a, m. for Jeypoor. At Bhurtpoor, where 
the Maharaja and his Court had been waiting for an hour, there 
was much to see and but little time to see it. The guns of the 
famous old fortress thundered out salutes. The road to the moat, 
above which tower the crumbling walls that saw our troops twice 



404 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

fail to reach the summit, was lined with troops, clad in Sepoy- 
uniforms, some with the old light infantry " wing " on the shoul- 
ders. The repulses of the British are celebrated in many paint- 
ings in the town. Crossing the broad ditch and passing the 
outer wall we came on a very thick brick gateway and wall, inside 
which lies the city. The streets are broad, and were well swept 
and clean. There were many triumphal arches, and nearly 
every inch of foot-path, window, and roof, was filled. The shops 
were shut. There was perfect silence till the carriage passed ; 
then came a buzz of conversation and commentary. The route 
to the Palace was lined with a framework of bamboos, seven feet 
high, covered with pink calico. The staircase, corridors and 
floors of the Palace were covered with the finest kinkob and gold 
brocades, the walls being hung with the same. Pictures of the 
Duke of Wellington, Napoleon, the Prince Consort, and Queen 
Victoria were hung in the room where the Prince and party were 
entertained at lunch. The Maharaja conducted the Prince to 
the Station, and returned thanks for the high honor done to 
Bhurtpoor by the visit, which was very interesting to the stran- 
gers. 

From Bhurtpoor the railroad traverses a plain, apparently 
level as a bowling-green, but in the vicinity of rivers the rains 
have cut deep and numerous ravines. At each half-mile of road 
there were pickets of armed horsemen. At every village were 
gathered Rajpoots, armed with sword and shield. Close to the 
pity of Jeypoor, conical hills form continuous chains, on which 
are battlemented walls, fortresses of feudal Chiefs. From unex- 
pected places came puifs of smoke and reports of cannon. The 
sun was getting low when the train stopped at the Station. As 
the Prince stepped out of the carriage, the Maharaja of Jeypoor 
advanced to welcome him at the head of his Court, and there 
was also the usual attendance of the official and unofficial Euro- 
peans on the platform. A procession was formed from the sta- 
tion through a great multitude — a double line, natives and Euro- 
peans, two elephants abreast. We passed through a gateway, 
and Jeypoor lay before us, a surprise and wonder for ever. 



"the city of victory. 405 

The world knows very little of its great men ; and the 
number of people who are acquainted with the deeds of the 
Maharaja Jey Sing, who founded "the City of Victory" in 1728, 
is probably very small indeed, although astronomers must be 
acquainted with the name, at least, of the man who reformed the 
Calendar, and constructed the remarkable observatories at 
Benares, Jeypoor, and elsewhere. He laid down his capital, we 
are told, according to the rules of the " Silpi Shastras," and if so, 
it is to be regretted that these Shastras were not followed more 
generally, not only in India, but in England. In fact, Baron 
Haussmann might have been inspired by the genius which order- 
ed this city : — " Between the gates of the Sun and Moon " (east 
and west) runs the main street, 2 miles long and 11 1 feet wide ; 
between the north and south gates is another street i^ mile long, 
and of the same breadth as the other. These streets are cut at 
right angles by others, 55 feet broad, and the rectangular blocks 
so formed are divided by streets 27)^ feet broad ! The town is 
surrounded by a crenellated wall of masonry, 20 feet high and 
9 feet thick, covered with rose-colored plaster, pierced by 
seven gateways, each with two kiosks, and machicolations and 
screen walls ; and there are bastions and towers with embrasures 
for guns at intervals. The streets have clean, broad pavements, 
and stone causeways for carriages. The shop-fronts, shaded 
by a sloping calico or cloth pent of white, with broad red 
stripes, giving a light and agreeeble effect to the thorough- 
fares, open on the street. Projecting over the shops there is a 
broad ledge or terrace, putting one in mind of the old streets of 
Chester. 

If I were to say that the houses look as if they were built of 
solid strawberry cream streaked in white arabesque, no adequate 
impression would be produced, simply because one cannot imagine 
houses of such material. And yet, out of confectionery, I have 
never beheld any street architecture of this kind. The houses vary 
from three to five or six stories in height, and are painted rose- 
color picked out with white, with narrow windows and perforated 
stucco screens. The walls sometimes are mere pretences, blind 



406 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

frontages raised above the flat roofs. Nothing more light and 
pretty can be imagined than these streets with Venetian masts 
and flags, garlands, streamers, illuminated by an army of torch- 
bearers. There were some who tried to find out that it was 
a painted sepulchre, and dived into back streets, but it was only 
to discover that Brahminee bulls had an easy time of it, that 
fakirs were in much esteem, and that the shopkeepers were 
quite well aware of the value of the exquisite work in enamel, 
&c., for which Jeypoor is famous. The Prince was lodged in 
the Residency, where there were the usual fesitivities and cere- 
monies. 

February t^. — The environs are by no means destitute of 
tigers, and it is said that some of the Rajpoot Chiefs have a 
tenderness for the creatures — perhaps founded on a superstitious 
fear — and keep tiger reserves. Naturally enough, the animal 
which may at any moment eat the father or mother of a family 
or the spem gregis, exercises a great influence over the popular 
imagination, and tigers rampant, couchant and passant, figure 
largely on the walls of the houses and temples. There is a short 
and safe method with the beasts when the Chiefs desire to kill 
them. Certain houses are erected in the valleys which the ani- 
mals affect, and when one of them has been marked down by a 
" kill," — that is, the slaughter of a calf or some edible of that 
kind — the sportsman takes up his post in one of the shooting- 
boxes, and beaters are sent to drive the valley ; the tiger, who is 
of retiring habits when he has his own way, generally breaks 
away and gives a chance to the rifle as he passes. There was 
news of a " kill " this morning not far from the Residency, and 
the Prince set out to try his fortune, the Maharaja having made 
all the needful arrangements. The Royal party started in high 
spirits, some to hunt pig, others to shoot deer ; the Prince to the 
rocky ravine in which the tiger was lurking. It had been the 
Maharaja's intention to station the Prince in the ravine ; but the 
tiger having moved, he was placed in the upper story of a shoot- 
ing-box, from which there was a clear view all round. Nearly 
two hours passed before the beaters came on the lair. Then 



THE FIRST TIGER. 407 

the tiger was seen craping, cat-like, towards the house. It 
came within thirty yards. "'The Prince fired. The tiger started 
off down the ravine at a trot. Again the Prince fired ; the tiger 
rolled over but recovered, and staggered into a hollow, amid 
thick brush. The Prince, who wished to follow the trail on 
foot, was dissuaded. He mounted Dr. Fayrer's elephant, and 
descended. The beaters threw stones into the ravine ; the tiger 
emerged and walked slowly up the bank. The Prince fired 
twice ; still the beast went on badly, hit though it was, and 
stumbling, rolled out of sight over a boulder. A beater, stand- 
ing above, said, " It lies there." The party closed around, and 
there lay— tremendous still in death — a full grown female, Sj4 
feet long. When it was laid out in the garden of the Residency, 
it was an object of much attention ; the photographer was set to 
work, then came the naturalist to skin the carcass. The smell 
was abominable — a fetid odor, as though it was in a state of de- 
composition — but the tigress was very fat, and had she been 
allowed to live a few weeks longer there would have been three 
little items added to the population of Tigerdom. The carcass 
was placed on an elephant and borne in triumph to a little kiosk 
in the valley. There lunch was spread. The Maharaja, who 
lunched in the same room, but apart, congratulated the Prince 
on his success in a bumper, and requested his acceptance of a- 
very large-bored tiger-rifle. There were grand illuminations all 
over the city, not because of the killing of the tiger, but on ac- 
count of the Prince's visit. The Palace, which constitutes one- 
sixth of the metropolis, shone with myriads of lights ; the gar- 
dens and the tanks were lighted, the trees bore fiery fruit, 
fire rained from the citadel and the great range of fort-crowned 
precipices overhanging the city, and all devices known to Indian 
illuminators were lavished to the great delight of the people, 
who had come from every part of the State to witness the 
sight. 

February 6. — Divine service in the Residency at 10.30 a. m. 
There was afterwards an excursion to Amber, of which Mr. Julian 
Robinson wrote, " Compared to Jeypoor, it is Westminster Ab- 



408 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

bey to Covent Garden Theatre, or a mild, grave sxur de charite 
to Apimpante, frisky grisette." This is as true as another remark 
by the same writer, that Jeypoor " is the very millinery of masonry ; 
the streets, compared to those of Agra or Calcutta, are a series 
of laces, ribands, frills and flounces." Amber is a fine solid 
sacque of brocade laid by for future generations to wonder at. 
The approach, by a road winding below a grand range of cliffs, 
and skirting a lake bordered with ruined castles, is a fit preparation 
for the sight of the great gorge, on one side of which tower the 
battlements of the series of temples which begin in the waters at 
their base, where sacred crocodiles swim in and out among the 
ruins of half-submerged colonnades and porticos. Amber is a 
city of the dead. There are more monkeys than men about 
Amber, and they are much respected by their relatives in the 
more developed stages who walk on two legs. The Dewan 
Khass, the Jess-mundur, the Sowaree Gate, in fact, all the mag- 
nificent buildings in the vast enclosure of battlemented walls, 
which climb up to the summits of the peaks dominated by forts, 
are of extraordinary beauty of design and elaborateness of exe- 
cution ; the walls of some of the Palace rooms are inlaid as if 
they were pieces of jewelry. No one should set foot on Indian 
soil without visiting Amber if he can. Lunch was spread on one 
of the terraces of the palace, and the cortege attracted a very 
great multitude of people as picturesque as the country they live in. 
February 7. — Early this morning the Maharaja appeared in 
the inner court of the Residency, walking up and down in front 
of the veranda, waiting till he could pay his respects to the 
Prince. He was followed by a train of courtiers, who moved 
just as he did, following him very much as though they had been 
so many joints in the tail of an animal. The little camp was 
astir. Servants busy packing up ; crowds of box-wallahs hov- 
ering around with articles for sale. The Prince accepted a sword 
in an enamelled sheath gloriously jewelled ; a bag of gold mo- 
hurs struck at Jeypoor, and some photographs on a large scale. 
Many of the Princes of India take to photography, but the Ma- 
haraja is a master in the art. Almost every State in India, 



DEPARTURE FROM JEYPOOR. 4O9 

which aspires to gain the favor of the " Paramount Power," has 
set itself to copy British institutions. The Education Report of 
the Maharaja's College, the Rajpoot School, the Sanscrit College, 
and different branch schools in the city and in the State of Jey- 
poor. written in English, is now before me ; and the great pro- 
gress which has been made in ten years does honor to Mr. Kan- 
tee Chunder Mookerjee, the Principal of the College. There is 
also in my hands a report of the Jeypoor School of Arts, which 
was opened by the Maharaja in 1866, with a staff of teachers 
from the Madras School of Arts. Since 1869 it has been under 
the charge of Dr. De Fabeck, with the assistance of Mr. James 
Scorgee. The pupils are instructed in drawing, carpentering, 
modelling, bookbinding, electro-plating, watch-making, wood- 
carving, sculpture, embroidery, blacksmith's work, &c. ; but, ah 
me! those "poor ignorant natives," who lived before us, and 
knew nothing of "principles of art," and had no art-instruction, 
conceived and executed works their more fortunate or better- 
taught descendants and their teachers can only faintly imitate. 
Take, for example, Jeypoor " enamel." Why, all the best work- 
men in London, Paris, Vienna, Rome, admit they cannot match 
this wonderful work ! Our teaching will no doubt turn out a 
great mass of Brummagem craftsmen, but it is to be feared that 
with greater mechanical excellence it will "spoil the work." 
The articles made in the school meet with a ready sale, and the 
workshops are liberally patronized by Europeans and natives. 
The Principal has received high commendation from all the visi- 
tors, including Lord Mayo and Lord Northbrook, the latter of 
whom took the trouble of correcting an essay on art by a pupil 
of the College, which is printed for the "use of schools." 

When the train was ready, the Prince walked with the Ma- 
haraja to the Station, which was a few hundred yards distant. 
One thing much affected the Maharaja — Would he ever see the 
Prince again ? If not, might he venture to write to him — directly 
— ^how and then — to make inquiries after his health ? The run 
to Agra was rapid and smooth. At six o'clock the party arrived 
in camp. 

18 



410 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Here the ever-varying panorama of strange sights and scenes, 
processions, receptions, banquets, journeys, and hurrying to and 
fro day after day, cease for a while. Still the recollection of 
these, recent as they are, is not very distinct. There is scarcely 
any one among us — except, perhaps, the Prince himself, whose 
memory holds every fact in a vice — who can distinguish between 
one set of fireworks and another ; remember what occurred at 
any one banquet which distinguished it from its fellows; identify^ 
a particular camp or quarter ; or pretend to give a narrative of 
what he saw at anyone place especially, without running the risk 
of confounding dates and events. When the Prince turned his 
face towards the Himalayas, there was a sensation of relief, a 
longing anticipation of such repose as the hunter's life would 
afford, and the taste of blood of tiger slain at Jeypoor had whet- 
ted the appetite for more. A^ith what delight w^ere uniforms, 
cocked hats, and laced coats carefully stowed away, and sent 
down country to be ready when the party emerged from the 
Terai! 

The Duke of Sutherland and Mr. Grey are homeward bound, 
and Sir B. Frere and Canon Duckworth are going on a tour in 
the far North-West, whilst the Prince is away on his sporting ex- 
cursion. Captain Glyn and Commander Durrant proceeded to 
Calcutta to take the Serapis and Osborne round to Bombay for 
the Prince's homeward journey. Before his Royal Highness left 
he paid one more visit to the Taj, which was favored by a lovely 
moonlight — not too direct and strong, but glinting at an angle 
which gave effect to the contour, and obviated the " blankness " 
of effect produced by its full glare. The Prince bade his kind 
hosts farewell, and at midnight the special train started for Mor- 
adabad, the farthest point towards the Terai to which the rail 
extends. 




IN THE TERM — BEATING FOR TIGER. 



CHAPTER XII. 



THE KUMAOUN— TERM— NEPAL. 



The Royal shooting Camp — Sir H. Ramsay — Nynee Tal — An unlucky Dose 
— Pleasing Incongruities — Terai Scenery — Camp Personnel — A Day of 
Rest — The King of Beasts" — Tigers and Tigerlets — " DeProfundis " — 
The last Day with Ramsay — Enter Nepal — Sir Jung Bahadoor — Nepalese 
Civilities — An Elephantine Procession — Fighting-elephants — A good 
Beginning — An abstruse Joke — Taking to Roost — The terrible Proboscis 
— "Jung Pershaud is coming!" — Bigli Pershaud enters — "Cui Lumen 
ademptum " — Ballet-drill — The Reign of Terror — Departure from Nepal. 

February 8. — Dreaming possibly of the Taj, or of the pleas- 
ant camp and the hospitalities of Sir John and Lady Strachey 
at Agra, stretched at length on the comfortable cushions of our 
railway carriages, and snugly wrapped in resais, we were borne 
through the night, taking no note of time, away to Rohilcund. 
An hour or so after daybreak the report of guns and a crash of 

music ! What ! Is there still a Durbar ? Or it is only an 

411 



412 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

address ? Or it is a reception ? Effectively, we were at Mora- 
dabad. Brigadier Payn, and the military and civilian staff of 
the district, a guard of honor, band and colors of the i8th Royal 
Irish, were waiting on the platform. Outside, detachments of 
the 28th Native Infantry and of the 3d Ghoorkas, and a squad- 
ron of the 1 6th Bengal Cavalry to act as escort. Here there was 
breakfast, but owing to the confusion and excitement of the native 
attendants, it was rather a feast of the Barmecide. The C Battery 
19th Brigade, had laid six-mile relays for the twenty-six miles to 
the shooting camp at Bahrinie, and the horses were ridden by 
the artillerymen at a tremendous pace over an excellent pucka 
road. The morning was fresh and the air delightful Before us 
lay the great level plains of Rohilcund, green with the new crops 
and island-like clumps or topes of trees, which form a distinct fea- 
ture of the landscape, the work of the old rulers, who planted them 
in the vicinity of the highways, and generally close to tanks. 9ind 
watercourses. The Ramgunga, meandering through the plains 
close at hand, recalled a time when its banks were lined by hostile 
Rohillas, and the country through which we were passing was in 
the hands of a mortal enemy. Now all looks peaceful and pros- 
perous. Far as the eye can reach, hedgeless fields, vast herds of 
cattle, villages (which a man would give much to see in Ireland, or 
in parts of Scotland), in the far distance certain white streaks in 
the air — our first glimpse of the snow-peaks of the Himalayas. 
The first six-mile stage was done at the rate of sixteen miles an 
hour. We halted at the roadside, where there was a little camp, 
with commissariat, grass-cutters, and tents complete. It was a 
pleasure to see the smart non-commissioned officers and drivers 
— coats, boots, breeches, bits and buckles, with the genuine 
Woolwich glisten upon them — forming a nucleus for crowds of 
the apathetic and rather sulky-looking natives on the roadway. 
Buckles were undone in a trice, panting horses walked out, a new 
set of horses harnessed, and the carriages were off again. Stage 
after stage the same scene ; the outline of the mountains north- 
ward growing more pronounced as the carriages rattled with the 
light-hearted company on towards the camp. The broad and 



THE TERM. 413 

well-laid road was lined by peepul and acacia, which rather hid the 
view ; but towards noon certain white pyramids, like squat sugar- 
loaves, could be seen above the level, backed by a great forest 
of cornfields. " There are the tents ! " It was the shooting 
camp at Bahrinie. 

As soon as the Prince's cortege was visible, the 3d Ghoorka 
guard of honor, and the detachment of the 15th Bengal Cavalry, 
turned out ; about two hundred elephants were ranged on the 
side of the road, that his Royal Highness might see what prep- 
arations had been made by "the King of Kumaoun," as Gen- 
eral Ramsay is called, to give him sport. Up fluttered the Royal 
Standard to the summit of the lofty flag-staff ; the band played 
" God save the Queen." Here we are on the outskirts of the 
Terai. As a " forest " in Scotland means a mountain on which 
there are no trees, so the word " Terai," often applied to the 
wooded belt at the base of the Himalayas, is really the prairie 
which lies outside it for hundreds of miles. At this time of year 
it is as healthy as any part of Europe, but at other periods a 
deadly fever attacks Europeans and natives, except the peculiar 
people who live and thrive in the dreaded region. Farewell to 
carpeted tents and the luxuries of Agra or Delhi ! But welcome, 
very welcome, the snug, blue lined tent, very little better than a 
"pall," which afforded its grateful shelter ! A large mess-tent, 
and the European servants, in black coats and white cravats, of 
Mr. Kellner, the German contractor, showed that even in the 
Terai it could not be forgotten that the Prince was present. 
Our camp was pitched by the roadside, close to a dense jungle ; 
an undulating prairie, covered with high reeds and grass, 
stretched away to the foot of the mountains, where the Snowy 
Range was hidden by the out-jutting shoots of the lower hills. 
It was arranged that only a certain number of his Royal High- 
ness' suite should accompany him to Nynee Tal to see "the 
Snows," the great expanse of ice and snow in which Switzerland 
and all its mountains would be lost. Fortunately he reached 
the hill in time to behold the range of the Himalayas, lighted 
up by the setting sun, under their most favorable aspect, when 



414 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

the rose hue steals up from the darkening base over the pure 
white summits. As the day was yet young, those who were left 
behind thought they would make the most of it. There were great 
hunters amongst them — General Sam Browne, Colonel Dickens, 
Major Bradford, Major Prinsep, and others. It was suggested 
that we should beat the jungle, avoiding the district marked out 
for the Prince to-morrow, and in half-an-hour more we were 
crashing through a thick wood, in a way which, to a new-comer, 
seemed to involve the danger of being swept off the elephant's 
back by branches, or torn by contending boughs. But a good 
mahout. will guide these docile creatures much more easily than 
a steersman directs a boat. So the great procession went on, 
tearing through briar and brake, alarming cheetul, hog-deer, 
wild boar, peacock, and jungle-fowl. Now and then a fusillade, 
and a triumphant hurrah told that some victim had fallen ; but 
there was more excitement than sport, till we came to a withered 
tree, on the branches of which were forty or fifty gorged vultures. 
" I am sure there is a kill," said Colonel Dickens, and — sure 
enough — there was the half-devoured carcass of a buffalo, left 
by a tiger so recently, that the stream was still discolored where 
it had crossed. The word was instantly passed, " No tigers, 
gentlemen ! " just as one hears in an English covert, " No hens, 
if you please, gentlemen ! " The elephants began to trumpet. I 
was on the left, close to a belt of wood, in grass that came quite 
up to the top of the howdah, " Look out ! " exclaimed Major 
Prinsep, "there is something before you ! " The grass was cleft 
asunder by some dark body, which showed for an instant like a 
porpoise in a tideway, and I fired. " Luggee I " exclaimed the 
shikarry behind me, " Luggee ! He is hit ! " " What was it ? " 
asked I. The answer was terrible ! Concurrent testimony 
declared that it was a splendid tiger. But I at least knew that 
if the tiger were hit he certainly was not killed. I had two guns 
in my howdah, one a rifle and the other a smooth-bore, and I 
had delivered a dose of buck-shot to the king of the jungle, 
which at the worst, could only have caused him a disagreeable 
titillation. " Grief is for little wrongs — despair for mine." I 



THE RETURN TO CAMP. 415 

had not the courage to reveal the fact, but somehow it leaked 
out, although I am not aware it was known to those most con- 
cerned till some time afterwards. " I am glad you got a shot at 
your tiger ! " said one. " Wonder if he'll die ! " exclaimed 
another. " Do you think you hit him ? " asked a third. " No 
one expected a tiger there ! " and so on. We returned to camp 
just as it was dark. The sun had not well gone down ere the 
chorus of jackals, wolves, owls, night-jars, and strange birds, 
filled the air. The wind came down keenly from the moun- 
tain ranges, and the comfort of fireplaces to which we had been 
accustomed in our grand tents was missed, so that some of the 
party resorted to the old Crimean practice of dressing to go to 
bed. 

February 9. — A concert of coughing, sneezing, chattering and 
shivering from the camp-followers around the tents awoke me 
this morning. The poor creatures from the south, with nothing 
but thin cotton robes to cover them, must have been miserable 
indeed. I believe we should all be more charitable if we lived 
in tents. As soon as the shooting-elephants had started to meet 
the Prince on his return from Nynee Tal, Lord Aylesford, Lord 
Carington, Colonel Williams, Colonel Ellis, Major Prinsep, &c., 
set out on horseback, under the guidance of General Browne, to 
a village six miles away. There we found Major Sartorius coming 
from Moradabad, who joined the party. The fleet of shooting- 
elephants having received its passengers on board, weighed, and 
stood in line across the ocean of pulse, grain, and barley, outside 
which we could see herds of black-buck ; but long before we got 
within shot they vanished into the long grass. The ground 
literally swarmed with game — cheetul, buck, marsh-deer, and 
wild boars. My shikarry, Lall Sing, a trooper of the Central 
India Horse, must have been able to see through a stone wall. 
" Deko ! " here — " Deko ! " there — said he every moment, 
pointing as if he saw what was bounding away through the grass, 
while I might as well have tried to make out the clock of St. 
Paul's in a London fog. Occasionally the elephant whisked 
round, or started so violently as to cause one to hold on with 



4l6 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

might and main in the howdah, as " something " ran close to 
his legs. At last various game began to suffer, and deer, wild 
boar, partridge, black and red, para, &c., accumulated on the 
backs of the pad elephant. The courage of the boar is worthy 
of commendation. One, transfixed by a spear, turned upon the 
huntsman, and drove him to seek safety on the back of an elephant. 
Another, with a splendid " hog" mane and great tusks, charged 
the line, striking such dismay into the elephants, who preferred 
being rent behind to having a proboscis and tusk encounter in 
front, that the noble savage escaped. We reached camp at 7 
o'clock. Here we found his Royal Highness, who had returned 
much pleased with his visit to Nynee Tal, although his first day 
was a blank. 

After dinner, great logs were heaped up in front of the mess- 
tent ; chairs were brought, and before the huge camp fire, burning 
brightly, the Prince and the company sat listening to the delight- 
ful anecdotes of Sir Henry Ramsay, who invests the land and 
the people and the chase with fresh interest. He told us of a 
certain village in his territory where the people were terribly 
troubled by a tiger ; so they sent for the wise man — the barab- 
har, I think he said — to charm the beast away with his drum and 
songs. The tiger, however, came out and ate the wise man — 
whereupon the villagers arose and migrated. " For," said they, 
'^ now that the tiger has eaten our sage, he will know all our 
secrets, and we shall have no chance of evading him." 

The band of the 3d Ghoorka Regiment has moved up with 
us. The strains of Verdi, Offenbach, Donizetti, and Mozart 
mingle with the howls of wolves and jackals. It is clear moon- 
light ; the stars are shining brightly ; above us tower the Himalayas. 
Who knows what lies beyond these snows .'' Who can tell what 
the crowd who sit afar, with their cloaks thrown around their 
heads, are thinking of, as they gaze at the white-faced strangers 
laughing and chatting so merrily in front of the camp-fire ? 

February 10. — Three parties were formed, but no tiger was 
killed. After several blanks, the Prince and his party were 
posted by General Ramsay round a patch of deep grass and 



TIGER HUNTING. 417 

reeds, with water near it, in which a tiger was reported to be 
hiding. The elephants were sent in to beat. Unfortunately, 
the Prince was shifted to another place, and immediatel}^ after 
he had moved, a splendid tiger rushed out within twenty paces 
of where the Prince had been stationed. The Prince fired, but 
the grass was high, and the tiger, which received the fire of 
others, got off untouched. Subsequently a leopard started from 
the jungle, which the Prince wounded, and which was killed. 
However, the general shooting, deer and small game, was very 
successful. 

February 11. — Our objective point was Peepul Perao, thir- 
teen miles to the eastward of our present camp. Each of the 
party has by this time got on pretty good terms with his mahout, 
his shikarry, and his elephant ; but the wonderful way in which 
some of the former persist in never learning how to secure the 
howdah provokes great acrimony. As the unwieldy but not 
stupid brute which sustains the howdah plods along, the occu- 
pant sometimes feels that he is going steadily over on one side. 
The mahout, forcibly admonished of the fact, entreats the shi- 
karry to step out on the back of the animal, to drag at the how- 
dah to set it straight, or conjures two or three friends on pad 
elephants to come to his assistance. But it generally happens 
that at some crisis in the hunt you have to halt while the elephant 
lies down, and the howdah, with all its difficult apparatus of 
chains, ropes, and straps, is readjusted. At this time of year 
tigers are in the deepest swamps, where the grass rises many 
feet above your head ; and the only chance of finding them is in 
diligently thrashing through the. morass. Deep as these swamps 
and jheels are, they generally end in narrow guts, or taper away 
to comparatively bare spaces. What swarming life of birds ! 
Duck, teal, kingfishers, reed warblers, painted and common 
snipe, rails, dappers, butcherbirds, partridge and quail ; parrots, 
many sorts of thrush or grackles, woodpeckers, fly-catchers, owls ; 
jungle-cock in the thick stuff, black partridge on the outskirts, 
and porcupines rustling over the dry watercourses ; hares near 
the cultivated patches ; by the edges of the woods, little burrow- 
18* 27 



41 8 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

ing creatures like marmosets ! Above all, career eagles, falcons, 
hawks, buzzards, and kites. Orders strict — " No firing ! " No 
matter what heads or tusks may be seen, not a shot is to catch 
the ear of some distant tiger and send him slinking away. Hour 
after hour the hunters sweep through great marshes and forests, 
where dak, sal, teak, and peepul excite ever-recurring wonder. 
The absence of population in these regions is not remarkable 
when one thinks how people would be harassed by wild beasts 
and by fever ; but still, to travel mile after mile through beauti- 
fully-wooded regions, where Nature seemed to give the most 
astonishing proofs of vigor and fertility, and find no trace of 
man, was startling! It is too much to say no trace, because we 
came upon wigwams belonging to people who ^ had come down 
from the hills to feed their herds in the winter time — poverty- 
stricken, subdued, timid-looking creatures, of mild inoffensive 
aspect, clad in coarse cotton. Those who think that it is not an 
unpleasant half-hour when the cart advances with its Norwegian 
stove, and the cloth is spread on the grass in some pleasant din- 
gle at home, would not disapprove of the arrangements made by 
General Browne for shooting-tiffin in the jungle. Not merely 
German waiters and the work of French cooks transported on 
the backs of elephants, but blocks of ice to cool the wine and 
water, and many other luxuries not at all to be despised by those 
who can get them when heated with the chase. When all hope 
of tiger was abandoned, the word was passed for "general 
hhooting" homewards. 

Peepul Perao, which we reached ere sunset, is a name only. 
Even the map-makers do not venture to give a local habitation 
to it. The once quiet glades now presented long lines of tents, 
blazing camp-fires and bustle of camp-life ; the trumpetings of 
elephants, the neighing of horses, broke through the silence of 
the forest. 

The camp contains 2500 persons. Without counting General 
Ramsay's separate camp establishment, there are 119 elephants, 
550 camels, 100 horses, 60 carts drawn by oxen,- many goats and 
milch-cows, sheep, and perambulating materials for food. There 



TERM SCENERY. 4I9 

are nearly 600 coolies, 60 tent-pitchers, 20 men to supply water, 
20 men to clean, 20 messengers, 75 non-commisioned officers 
and men of 3d Goorkhas and their band, 20 troopers nth 
Bengal Cavalry, 16 of the 28th native infantry; a detach- 
ment of native camp police (it will be observed the Prince's 
person is guarded by natives exclusively), and there are odds 
and ends which add to the total, without counting mahouts and 
their families and camel-men, assembled round the Prince and 
his thirty or forty Europeans. Certainly I should feel rather 
proud of myself if I were a wild beast and knew all this. 

February 12. — It is almost a certainty that the first sight 
that catches one's eye in the morning is the light, spare figure of 
General Ramsay smoking the inevitable cheroot, which, if unac- 
companied by spirits or wine, must be one of the most whole- 
some articles of diet in the world, should we judge from the 
King of Kumaoun. The shooting camp was shifted to-day from 
Peepul Perao to Nuglah, about twelve miles away. 

The first party had about eighty elephants. The second 
division had fifty. Covert after covert was beaten, but the land- 
lords were not at home. General Ramsay did his best ; but it is 
too early in the year, and it was labor in vain. When the flies 
are not out the tigers are in. The ground was so deep in places 
that the beasts floundered about as if drowning, and mine sunk 
so that the mud reached its lower jaw ! The ground between the 
jheels, thickly wooded with Buteafrondosa, euphorbias, elephant 
creepers, Z>^rwj<r^7/^(?;zj-, dwarf-palms, and the dak-tree, leafless, 
but decked with profuse bunches of the brightest scarlet flowers. 
It was a relief to hear the word down the line — " You may fire 
at anything." And when the pad elephants were drawn up in 
camp at night there was a fair show of sambur, cheetul, nilghie, 
marsh-deer and pig. Eighteen Bhoteas, a Hill people, a cross 
between Monguls and Thibetans, of whom six were women, were 
brought down ; but though they may be curious, they are not in- 
teresting. They were sketched by Mr. Hall, and they were photo- 
graphed. They bore the ordeals with perfect composure. The wo- 
men wore silver amulets, ornaments of turquoise and rude gems 



420 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

round their necks ; some had silver nose, finger, and toe rings, 
and anklets of uncouth workmanship. One man had a praying- 
wheel ; others, who were professional beggars, produced the 
little drums by which they incite a desperate charity. 

February 13. — A day of rest. I walked over to General 
Ramsay's camp, where the Rev. Julian Robinson read service. 
The lock of one of my guns was broken by the shikarry. I was 
told that Ghole Mahomed, a blacksmith and general workman 
with General Browne, could repair it, so the gun was given to 
him, and he brought it over neatly mended — a new spring in. 
"You should not have worked ona Sunday," said I, "Mahom- 
ed." " It was a necessary work, Sahib," said he/ " and your 
Book says it is lawful to do what is necessary on your holy day. 
How could you shoot to-morrow if I didn't mend your gun ? " On 
my way from one camp to the other I saw a crowd of Natives 
hopping about in' a very lively manner in a sort of circle, at the 
same time striking with their sticks at something on the ground. 
It was at a small snake which was, they said, very venomous. 
There are plenty of them here, but no cobras ; pythons are 
numerous in the woods. It is remarkable that we have seen 
few snakes in India, where deaths from snake-bites amount to 
many thousands every year. 

February 14. — St. Valentine'' s Day. Dr. Kellett keeps a rec- 
ord of the game, and it is curious reading. Take " an off-day," 
for example : — " H. R. H., 2 para (deer), i pig, 3 black partridge, 
I kingfisher; Lord Aylesford, 2 mongoose, i para, i hare, i par- 
tridge, 3 plover; Lord Carington,,2 partHdge, i cheetul ; Lord 
A. Paget, I porcupine, i florican, i partridge, i hare ; Fayrer, 2 
para, i cheetul ; Prinsep, i hare, 2 para, 3 partridge ; Dr. Smith, 
I pig, I partridge," &c. The camp moved from Nuglah to 
Tandah ; the shooters divided into four parties. The Prince's 
party, led by General Ramsay, moved across the open country 
in line, killing boar, deer, and partridge, till we reached the 
jungle. Presently sight was caught of two dark objects in the 
grass. They were bears. One was fired at and killed by Lord 
Aylesford. Mr. Macdonald called out, " Tiger gone back ! " 



THE KING OF BEASTS. 421 

The elephants began to beat the jungle once more. The Prince 
was placed in the middle. In two or three minutes the ele- 
phants near him gave way, and looking across a small rivulet, I 
saw a bear, crouched as if listening, between the Princ3 and me. 
The Prince fired. The bear dropped, but got up and rushed out 
of the jungle, charging an elephant in its way. Several shots 
were fired, and it rolled over into the rivulet, struck by a fatal 
ball, but it had been hit by the Prince's first barrel. It was a 
sloth bear, of extraordinary size and weight. These creatures 
are exceedingly fierce and, mischievous, and Mr. Macdonald has 
official knowledge of eight persons having been killed in two 
consecutive nights by one of them. The other parties were not 
successful. 

The weather is cold at night with variations of 40° between 
2 A. M. and 2 p. M. Quinine is taken according to prescription, 
but the country is considered quite healthy at this time of year. 
The people, who are called Taroos, a small-boned, quiet race, suffer 
much. They have taken to drink whiskey as a national beverage. 

The lion is called " the King of Beasts " by ^sop, but ^sop 
was an African. In the Indian jungle the tiger is king, and 
there is no royal road to shooting him ; every other creature 
must be allowed to pass unscathed when he is sought ; for to 
kill a tiger, hours of beating and watching and halting must be 
endured day after day without repining. There is indeed the 
excitement of knowing that at any moment the quiet patch of 
grass before your eyes may .be rent asunder, and its yielding 
rushes and waving reeds may glow with the fire of that terrible 
eye, and warm with the rich color of that royal presence. One 
is told it is much nobler to descend into the jungle on foot and 
to seek the tiger in his lair, but gentlemen who pursue that sport 
are generally destroyed ; certainly, whether safe or not, it would 
not be possible to pursue the sport here, for no living man could 
walk a hundred yards through the astonishing grc "th of reeds 
and tangled vegetation. It might be possible to 'it a tiger by 
sitting night after night watching on a roost up in a tree over a 
pool of water, or the carcass of a dead buffalo ; but, in truth, the 



422 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

beasts are not abroad. " These confounded tigers are beating 
me," poor General Ramsay was wont to say, quite ruefully, night 
after night. They are like a needle, not in a bundle. but in a 
stack of hay, and thousands of elephants in the jungle could not 
force them out. 

February 15. — From Tandah to Ooncha Gong, only a march 
of five miles, the, beat extended over fifteen. For a long time 
there was tramp, tramp, tramp, through wood and swamp, and 
nothing worth shooting to see. At last fortune began to smile. 
A great sloth bear was discovered sunning herself in the jungle, 
which started off with a scrambling run in the high grass. A 
quick shot from Mr. Colviii killed it. When the hunters went 
up they found two cubs, about the size of full-grown pug dogs, 
gambolling about their dam, as unconscious as herself of the 
cause of her sudden quiet. As soon as they found the strange 
beings were about to separate them from their mother, they 
fiercely snapped their little milk tusks at their captors. At last 
they were secured, uttering piteous cries, and fastened on a pad 
elephant. As soon as the carcass of the dam was hoisted up 
alongside the poor little fellows, they stilled their lamentation. 
At camp they were put into a box, and ate a dish of bread-and- 
milk without much pressing. 

Towards four o'clock the hunters entered a covert in which 
the reeds and grass rose high above the howdahs ; at times the 
elephants were restive. A para (deer) bounded past Lord 
Suffield. An instant afterwards there was a sharp cry. The 
line pressed on, and a tigress made a rush through the thick stuff. 
It is not easy to determine what happens on such an occasion. 
Every one who sees has a shot. Lord Carington was credited 
with the hardest hit ; but Sir D. Probyn, who certainly made his 
mark, refused to claim any share in the skin. The tigress, hit 
through shoulder, head, and back, rolled over with a growl, which 
died into a moan, and with a few heaves of her striped sides lay 
stark, but not stiff. The milk still flowed from her paps. The 
natives ascribe many virtues to the natural food of young tigers, 
but no one was bold enough to test the truth of their assertions. 



TIGERS AND TIGERLETS. 423 

They believe that the whiskers are a sovereign remedy for 
maladies incident to advancing years, and that tiger's fat is a 
specific for wounds and for sores which nothing else can cure. 
So here was a whole pharmacopoeia stretched before us. The 
tremor of the elephants was explained when it was found that 
there had been three little tigers, some six weeks old, running 
about in the covert, playing with their mother. What became of 
these bereaved tigerlets ? General Ramsay thinks their father, 
will have nothing to do with them — that he will be very angry, 
in fact, if they come near him. If they were old enough they 
might pick up the fragments of his feast, and dispute the disjecta 
membra with jackals, wolves, and vultures, but he will not teach 
their young ideas how to hunt. The deer the tigress intended 
for their dinner was discovered, its neck broken and flanks rent 
by one stroke of those claws which now any one could feel with 
impunity. 

February 16. — The camp moved from Ooncha Gong to Sas- 
soona. While enjoying very good sport in general shooting, two 
villagers brought positive news of tigers in a swamp of extraor- 
dinary depth. Lord C. Beresford and I were sent on to guard 
the farther end. We heard much shouting, and went to ascertain 
the cause. General Browne's elephant had sunk in a deep hole, 
from which it was extricated, after much hard work.. Another 
met with a similar misfortune. This was unlucky, because the 
tiger was just before them. Lord C. Beresford had a shot at a 
crocodile, and a large bear was seen by the beaters. Search was 
made for the bear, but in vain. The Prince came to camp with 
a tigress (8 feet 6 inches long), and a fine sloth bear weighing 
over 250 lbs. and measuring 6 feet 8 inches, which he had killed 
after a long day's work ; every one is pleased when there is a 
kill to reward General Ramsay's efforts. There were deer and 
pig, some fiorican, black partridge, and sundries to boot. A 
mailed ant-eater, or manis, was brought in alive. It could only 
be uncoiled by pouring water on it.* Colonel Owen Williams, 
to our great regret, was obliged to leave for England to-day. 
* It died on board the Serapis, 



424 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

February 17. — There was a pleasant patter of rain on the 
canvas, and a sound of the kelassies trenching and digging 
round the tents, as if the force were sapping up to an enemy, 
last night. It was only making drains. The shower caused 
General Ramsay uneasiness, as the fords become impassable on 
small provocation. Had the rain lasted, the Prince would have 
been unable to shift his quarters, for the ship of the desert hates 
water, unless for drinking, and founders irretrievably in a few 
inches of mud. 

It was 10.45 ^- ^- before the tents were struck, and the 
shooting party stood in single file westward, to beat the covert 
in which the tigress was killed yesterday. Unambitious shooters 
viewed with regret gorgeous peacocks, fly, sambur, cheetul, and 
wild boar bound across the path. When the scene of the kill 
was reached, the Prince and one body made a sweep round the 
swamp. The other guns were disposed in a semicircle at the 
extremity and on the flanks. At 12.50 p. m. the word was given 
to advance, and there arose the noise, like the hissing of a long 
rolling surf on the shingles of -a beach after a storm, made by 
elephants moving through the grass and rushes. The elephant, 
resolved not to get into a hole if he can help it, thrusts his pro- 
boscis down in front, and swa3's it from right to left and left to 
right with the regularity of a pendulum, laying low the green wall 
with the "fleisen " sw-i-i-sh which the Germans say Homer meant 
when he wrote of " the much-resounding sea." The elephant, 
perhaps, would decide the question if we could only find a 
mahout intelligent enough to understand it, and put it to him 
properly in elephant language. Suddenly there was a roar, 
which those who visit the Zoological Gardens on Sundays at 
feeding-times would ascribe to one of the largest carnivora. 
'.' It is a guddee * elephant that has gone down in a hole ; that's 
all ! " A good deal for the poor guddee, however, who had 
scarcely more than his head and proboscis over the mud, and 
who made a tremendous -outcry over his situation. Elephants, 

* An elephant for the transport of game, &c., which carries only a pad. 



"DE PROFUNDIS. 42$ 

unlike men, will always help a friend out of a hole — aye, more, 
they will help an elephant with whom they have not even a bow- 
ing acquaintance. At 1,45 p.m. passed through a forest filled 
with birds in infinite variety ; trees, not one of which was known 
to the most learned of us, except as " a kind of " something or 
other, intersected by gullies and streams, with steep banks. It 
was very hard, but the tigers would not show. To add to the 
aggravation of a blank, there was scarcely one of the party who 
could not have killed a magnificent girow, or sambur or two. 

The sun was getting low when the elephants made a sweep 
towards the smoke, rising high in the calm air, which indicated 
the site of the new camp at Nanuk Mutla. A few deer, hares, 
and black partridge, of the last of which Lord A. Paget made the 
largest bag, were added to the score. 

The camp was pitched in a fine tope of mango and Ficus 
vinosa^ near a favorite place of pilgrimage of the Sikhs, revered 
for the miracles of. Nanuk Goroo. The Prince and his party 
came in at 8 p. m. with two young tigers. The third party saw 
a tiger swimming a river, and Ali Ashkar Khan got a long shot 
at it. We are, indeed, in Tigerdbm, but the kings of the country 
will not show us civility, though one ate a man to-day near us. 

February 18. — Several of the suite visited the shrine of 
Nanuk Goroo, and found many ascetics and pilgrims established 
round it, who never came to look at the Royal party. Mr. Girdle- 
stone rode over this morning to make arrangements for the visit 
to Nepal. All our native followers must have passes. By the 
Governor-General's permission, Nepalese troops cross the Sarda 
to escort Jung Bahadoor. The whole party left camp together. 
The elephants formed a line of more than 600 yards long. At 
12.30 p. M. the elephants crossed a quicksand in the bed of the 
Deva, which yielded but did not break. We soon came on 
marshy places swarming with duck, teal, and snipe. Ground so 
extensive required careful beating, and General Ramsay's lieuten- 
ants, Macdonald and others, aided by Major-General Probyn, 
directed the operations. It was near 2 o'clock when the elephants 
gave notice of something unusual in front. The line had con- 



426 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

tracted, forming a loop, with the Prince in the centre. '5 jdi cnly 
the grass moved, and a tiger bounded across in the direction of 
tjhe Prince. Those who saw it called out, " Do not fire ; " but 
at the moment some one fired from the other side of the loop, 
and the tiger turned before the Prince could get a shot at it. 
The beast charged the elephants, receiving fire from the how- 
dahs and rolling over dead, close to the end of the line — a 
splendid male, 10 feet long, beautifully marked — shot through 
back, neck and head. Some of the party thought they saw a 
tigress going away at the same time, but Mr. Macdonald, who 
knows every inch of the jungle, thinks they were mistaken. It 
was dark when the Prince arrived at Kalteema, one short march 
from Bunbussa, on the Sarda. Here we were nearly at the 
frontier of Rohilcund, and the shooting excursion in British ter- 
ritory terminated. The result did not answer expectations. It 
is poor consolation to be told that a month later many tigers will 
be shot where now deer wander unmolested. There has, how- 
ever, been. a considerable amount of game killed, from bears and 
deer of various kinds down to florican, partridge, and snipe, and 
two large and two small tigers have been scored to the Prince 
and his friends. The life for those who enjoy perpetual change, 
especially on elephant back, is interesting and healthy. 

February 19. — The tents were sent on to Bunbussa. One of 
the most curious sensations in the world is that of the dweller in 
tents when he finds his tent is gone, and that he is left out on 
the open, blinking his eyes in the sun, like an owl driven from 
his ivy-bush. I set off in my howdah, as, notwithstanding the 
jolting, I could read as I travelled. At 11.45 ^'^' ^ noticed a 
milestone which informed the world that it was 27 miles to 
Phillibeet, and 13 miles to Bermudeo — I do not care if I never 
see that milestone again. At 12.15 P- M. there came to view 
another milestone, which stated that it was 29 miles to Phillibeet, 
and II miles to Bermudeo, so that my old elephant was gallivan- 
ting along at the rate of four miles an hour. But in that time 
what strange things my elephant and I had passed by and duly 
observed ! There were strings of camels with their noses and 



STRANGE SIGHTS. 42/ 

tails connected by ropes — so a camel which would be high- 
minded because he knew his tail was compelling the head of the 
next to follow was humbled by jEinding his own nose obliged to 
obey the tail of his predecessor, and the pride of the first of the 
string had to undergo abatement when he became aware that a 
small boy was leading him by the nostril. There were men 
carrying all the quaintnesses of an Indian camp, boxes, labelled 
" Agra Ice Company," dependent from the ends of bamboos ; 
men with hooded falcons ; men with greyhounds ; old women on 
ponies ; young women wearing breeches ; men with no clothes 
on their legs and voluminous folds of calico on their heads ; 
Sepoys guarding camels or elephants, or nothing but themselves ; 
wallahs, with boarspears ; soda-water bottles ; curious and 
familiar articles, which put one in mind of the excellent story in 
Jacquemont's letters ; cases with wine bottles, glistening in the 
sun, bearing the honored names " Lafitte," " Chateau Margaux," 
and the like on their mendacious sides. Then a flock of goats 
and sheep, our milk and mutton. Thereafter, on an elephant, a 
red iron pillar, labelled " Post Office," and animated creatures 
of the same department on his back. Then a cheetah, hooded, 
in its ox-cart with two attendants, J^dis jubata — purring like a 
gigantic tabby as its keeper stroked its head, and so on, mile 
after mile. Presently came in view a clump of trees and a few 
chairs by the roadside ; a cloud of dust announced Sir Jung, 
who came up at a canter with a few officers. He dismounted 
and sat down, talking and smoking, while Mr. Simpson took a 
sketch of him. 

The Prince of Wales came in sight about i o'clock. Sir 
Jung Bahadoor advanced on foot to meet him. Sir Jung then 
mounted and rode beside the Prince to the camp, where a guard 
of honor of the 3d Ghoorkas and a cavalry escort were drawn 
up ; and, after the usual formal visits, the rest of the day was 
passed in peace. 

February 20. — The Rev. Julian Robinson read service before 
his Royal Highness and the Europeans, with the exception of 
those who were obliged to go to the new camping-ground. Tents 



428 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

were struck after breakfast, that the luggage might be got across 
the river to Nepalese territory in time for dinner. By midday 
the tent of the Prince, the mess-tent and shamianah, were the 
only traces of the encampment. The Prince remained at Bun- 
bussa, on the British side of the Sarda, till 3 o'clock. He is 
about to enter a mountain jungle, where roads are unknown and 
camels travel with difficulty. The elephant must do all the work. 
There were at least half-a-dozen bridges to be crossed before 
we reached the new camp at Jamoa, on the left bank of the river, 
for the Sarda, beautifully clear and impetuous, is now rather low. 
It forms an infinity of islands and is fordable at most places by 
elephants, but too deep for horses, and impassable for camels. 
The bridges are ingeniously made by filling osier-baskets with 
stones, and placing them together till they form a continuous 
chain of posts ; on these branches are laid, and then earth, till a 
road is made for horses and hackeries, but not for elephants. 
The Prince was escorted by Sir Jung and his Sirdars. The 
British Ghoorkas remained on the other side. A Royal salute 
was fired by the Nepalese artillery. The Prince's camp was 
close to the tents of the Prime Minister, which were enclosed in 
a wall of canvas. Sir Jung took leave, and returned with his suite 
in full dress, blazing with diamonds. A Durbar was held. Sir Jung 
delivered a Kureeta from the Maharaja, expressing his great 
pleasure at the honor of the Royal visit to Nepal, and conveying 
assurances of his attachment. In doing so, Sir Jung declared for 
himself he never could sufficiently acknowledge the kindness he 
had received from the Queen, the Prince Consort, and all classes 
of society when he visited England. He had been prevented 
by an accident from carrying out his intention to pay another 
visit to England, but he still cherished the hope. The Prince 
thanked Sir Jung for his expressions of good-will. Her Majesty 
was well aware of the services rendered by Nepal, and felt grate- 
ful for them, and she appreciated highly the assistance given by 
the troops under Sir Jung Bahadoor on an important occasion. 
.Sir Jung Bahadoor said it had been his pride and happiness to 
have been able to afford the help which had been so highly es- 



NEPALESE CIVILITIES. - 429 

teemed. The government of Nepal had done what it could. 
Let the Prince assure the Queen that if ever there was occasion, 
all the assistance Nepal could render would be cheerfully given. 
The Prince paid a return visit to Sir Jung. At each visit or 
Durbar there were presentations, so that each member of each 
suite was twice introduced. Two caged tigers and a splendid 
collection of birds were offered to the Prince. Many Impeyan 
pheasants (which the Nepalese call " duffa"), and argus (which 
they call '' monal, " the name by which the former are known by 
us), kaleege, coqplass, chickore, jungle-fowl, and a delightful 
little elephant, which salaa i.s and performs many tricks, were 
also presented. 

An enormous boa-constrictor was dug out of a hole in a leth- 
argic state, and roused by buckets of water poured down its 
throat. It was 18 feet long, as thick as a nine-pounder, and 
seemed an amiable reptile ; but close at hand, coiled round a 
branch of a tree, was another of evil disposition, for when Sir 
Jung Bahadoor sent a man to cut the branch, so that the serpent 
fell with a heavy thud, it raised its head and moved menacingly, 
as if to attack us, but eventually coiled itself round, and, like a 
true philosopher, went to sleep. Some Nepalese soldiers show- 
ed strength and skill in cutting trees, and there could be no 
doubt of their _ power and skill to lop off heads and arms with 
their kookeries. 

Sir Jung visited the Prince towards the close of dinner, and 
proposed the health of the Queen. After the toast. Sir Jung 
proposed the health of the prince, and said that " it was felt he 
had done them the greatest honor in coming to Nepal." 

We know very little of Nepal. There is no good map of the 
country ; nor will there be any till a few engineers throw some 
light on the darkness. The present maps are specimens of what 
Colonel Thuillier would style conjectural geography. The king- 
dom extends for 500 miles s. e. and n. w. ; it varies from 70 to 
100 miles in breadth, which will give a superficies of 54,000 
square miles. The population is estimated at 2,000,000, the reve- 
nue at 1,000,000/. The army consists of 14,000 infantry, 420 guns, 



430 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

of which six batteries are horsed, and others carried by coolies. 
There is a handful of cavalry, but the country is unsuitable for 
horses. 

February 21. — 12.30 i^ M. — The Prince has just returned, 
having killed his first tiger in Nepal. It is now lying stretched 
within a few yards of my tent, and a lamb might play with it, for 
there are in his body three wounds, any one of which would have 
been mortal ; his eye, which I saw glaring with fire some minutes 
ago, is dull, his claws, once tremendous, retracted in harmless 
sheaths. What number of elephants and men were engaged in 
compassing his death I am not prepared to state ; but I know 
that any one of them, brute or man, would have been sorry to 
have had a private interview with that mass of striped skin and 
inert muscle about 12 o'clock to-day. This tiger had been 
marked down close to camp, and it was resolved " by the au- 
thorities" that the Prince's first day in Nepal should not be a 
blank. Elephants were moored to blockade him, and men were 
stationed to keep up fires at night, so that he could not break 
through, according to tiger nature. The yells of the jemadars — 
" Roko ! " (Halt), " Chelo ! " (Go on), " Baine-ko ! " (To the left), 
" Dahine-ko ! " (To the right) — the blows of the hircus — the shouts 
of mahouts — the crashing of branches above and sapling beloW' — 
made the forest ring. As the great coil, each link of which was an 
elephant, moved on, a herd of deer, of confused mass of antlers and 
dappled skins," halted, like cavalry brought up midway in a furious 
charge. Then, taking council of despair, headed by a timid 
dame, they charged the elephants, which actually screamed with 
terror, and turned tail as the cheetul leaped over them. In 
another minute a tiger appeared, moving in an easy canter across 
our front, at a distance of some fifteen or twenty yards. He 
was growling as he ran. He seemed minded to go at the 
elephants, but he changed his intention of a sudden, and thought 
it best to consider the situation in the seclusion of a small natural 
shrubbery. Into this he dropped, and was lost to view. The 
elephants closed in round the spot. The Prince and Sir Jung 
appeared. The tiger, after two or three growls — the bellow of 



AN ELEPHANTINE PROCESSION. 43 1 

an angry bull and the snarl of a dog commingled — leaped 
through the brushwood. The Prince fired. One! two! The 
last shot turned him. He rushed into the covert. His side 
was exposed to the Prince. The next report of the rifle was 
followed by a yell of pain ; the tiger raised itself, rolled half 
over, and fell as the second barrel sent a bullet through its body. 
The apparition of open jaws and glaring eyes sank down into' 
the grass, which waved fitfully to and fro for a second or two ; 
then all was quiet. There v/as the usual cautious advance of 
the shikarries ; and, looking down from their howdahs, all saw 
the creature stretched out dead. He was a full-grown male, 9 
ft. 6 in. long. Had he not been stopped just at the right moment 
he would certainly have been " on " to a man or an elephant. 

The afternoon's sport was inaugurated- by a display rarely 
given to any one to witness — a procession, in single, file of 700 
elephants. The Prince sat for three-quarters of an hour watching 
the column cross the Sarda. To each elephant there were at 
least two persons — the mahout and a man on the pad ; several 
carried three or four people. Unless you see what mountains 
of sugar-cane and green food an elephant can stuff down his 
throat, you can form no idea of the vastness of the commissariat 
arrangements. When the elephants were all in position, they 
wore ship from line stem and stern to line ahead, and began to 
move over the prairie. 

Tiger-talk may be monotonous, but I regret very much that I 
did not see the making of the wonderful "bag" which the Prince 
brought into the camp. No less than seven tigers fell ; of these 
six, including that in the forenoon, were shot by the Prince. 
Five were killed in a single beat, which did not last more than 
an hour. The Prince killed two with single shots ; he disposed 
of three tigers in two or more shots each, and one was accounted 
for by •' outsiders." The scene of slaughter was an Island, with 
sparse forest and thick jungle, on the Sarda, such as tigers love. 
It was not easy for eyes unaccustomed to the work to make out 
tigers in the grass. The Prince steadily refused to listen to ad- 
vice. " Fire just before you, Sir ! There he is in front ! " He 



432 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. - 

would not fire at an object he did not see. Once, the elephants 
being close alongside, his Royal Highness crossed over and shot 
the beast from Sir Jung's howdah. When three or four tigers 
were to be seen like so many cats in a London square, it was 
natural that sportsmen should feel excited ; but, on the whole, 
the general feeling was that the creatures were not as " game " 
as they might have been. An old hand observed, "When they 
have seen as much of the gentlemen in stripes as I have done, 
they will think them far more interesting in the long grass than 
when they are on the howdahs, or clawing the mahouts off." 
The Prince's shooting ■ drew forth the encomiums of the great 
Nepalese shikarry, who has killed to his own rifle more than 550 
tigers, and who hopes to score at least 600 before he quits the 
field. 

One of the beasts which perished to-day — a tigress, fetid, 
lean, and hideous — was not content with deer ; she was a man- 
eater. The clothes and bones were found near the spot where 
the murderess met her doom. It is generally an old or sickly 
tiger which takes to man eating. Too slow or too weak to run 
down deer, he pounces on some poor wayfarer ; and once he has 
found out how easy a prey man is, never tries for any other food. 
Another had killed nine bullocks and buffaloes belonging to one 
village. Is it not a comfort to feel that justice is overtaking the 
creatures, though, as they are cats with teeth, claws, and stomachs, 
they must have " their rats and mice and other small deer.? " It 
will be many a long year before Nepal ceases to keep up a breed 
of tigers ; and as we sit at dinner news comes that there are 
some not very far off. 

Fehrua7'y 22. — Close to the river, apart from his fellows and 
tended by a few chosen followers, lives a monster of force and, 
if one is to believe his eye, of cruelty. He is happily restrained 
from mischief by great ropes secured round his legs and fastened 
to the trunks of large teak-trees, but for all that he is fenced in 
and guarded sedulously. His head is painted blood-color, so is 
his neck and the upper part of his body. Two small furrows 
over his cheeks marked by unholy ichor trickling from his head, 



FIGHTING-ELEPHANTS. 



433 



show that, he is " must." This is Jung Pershaud, the champion 
elephant of the Nepalese woods. There are Bijli and other 
famous chiefs in camp, but none equal to him. They are kept 
to engage the males of the wild herds. The first day we entered 




CAMP-FIRE IN A BANYAN TOPE. NEPALESE BAND PLAYING. 

Nepal it was rumored that there was a herd not far distant, and 
last night Sir Jung told the Prince that he had sent out his fight- 
ing-elephants, and hoped to let him see the sport. Orders were 
given for every one to be ready next morning at 7 a. m. 
19 28 



434 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

The party, led by Sir Jung, started accordingly, and went 
full speed through woods and swamps, across ravines and rivers, 
up and down nullah-sides, over old moraines, crashing through 
brake and copse with the tumult of a hurricane. The trained 
pads are urged by the mahout, and by a man who hangs on by 
a strap behind and belabors them with a wooden mallet, and go 
shuffling along at the rate of eight miles an hour. The wild, 
unencumbered with mahouts and mallet-men, are faster than the 
domesticated a^jimals. Excited spies came galloping down the 
hillside to report that the fighting-elephants could not come up 
with the fugitive. After two hours' full cry— and no one can 
imagine what music the yells of drivers, the shouts of the leaders, 
the trumpeting, the snapping of reeds and saplings, and the 
rushing noise through swamp and grass make — some of the 
elephants showed signs of distress, and many were far behind. 
Sir Jung suggested that they should give up — " he did not know 
whether the Prince would think it worth while to go on." The 
Prince decided on going on, and away they went once more, the 
fatigued beasts now and then cooling their sides and expressing 
their indignation by spouting jets of water from their proboscis 
over their backs, careless of who was on the pad, even though it 
were the Prince, who came in for the full benefit of a douche, 
till at last a second halt was called. It was noon. In a few 
minutes a scout came up with news that the wild champion was 
engaged with Jung and Bijli. Sir Jung, in trepidation, came up. 
" You must mount at once ; the herd may break this way, and 
no one's life is safe." The Prince was now twenty-five miles 
from camp, and it was impossible to witness the engagement. 
However, on the way they came on the conquered beast between 
its captors, his. legs tied together — with downcast ears, drooping 
head and dejected proboscis. Before the morning the greater 
part of the herd were taken. 

February 23 {dies carbone notandd). — The Prince had a long 
day, and killed a tigress ; its cub was taken alive. A word anent 
my own misfortune. I was posted outside a jungle, with Mr. 
Kellett on one side, Mr. Smith on the other, and the other guns 



A GOOD BEGINNING. 4 35 

moving- up towards us. The day was hot, the flies were trouble- 
some, and I took out a newspaper and began to read. Suddenly, 
Lall Sing cried, " Deko ! Deko ! " and put a gun into my hand 
just as the elephant made a quick swerve, and there cantered 
out of the reeds, within fifteen yards of me, the very finest 
tiger (of course) I ever saw. He was in a hurry and in a rage 
too. I pulled on him. Alas ! the stop was on. By the time I 
was on him again the tiger was off in the covert ; but I cherished 
the idea I had hit him. There was a general search, but he was 
seen no more. Every one said, " You ought to have killed that 
tiger." However, I have seen a good many missed, and so 
fortify my spirits. 

February 24. — The district having been swept clear of tigers, 
the camp was struck at 10 a. m., and was transferred to a "lodge 
in a vast wilderness," eight miles off, called Mahullea. The 
Prince started with Sir Jung for a wood within a few hundred 
yards of the "camp. The usual tumult began. Presently from 
the right came a few clear notes from a bugle. . It was answered 
from the left. " Halt ! " The line halted, for these trained corps 
are regulated like an army, form on centre or flanks, wheel and 
turn at command. There was a movement in "the thick grass, 
and the Prince looking dowji could see something. He fired. 
The grass was agitated. He fired again, and all was still. The 
elephants closed up. There lay a very beautiful, full grown 
leopard, dead, killed by the first shot ; the second was sup- 
ererogatory. The elephants re-formed and closed, until a shout 
announced that a tiger had been seen in a piece of grass. His 
Royal Highness fired A growl from the grass — no move- 
ment; another shot — another growl. In a second afterwards 
out leaped the tigress, to the great discomfiture of the ele- 
phants, which flourished their trumpets, and behaved as saga- 
cious creatures might be expected to do. The tigress was in 
her hiding-place again in an instant ; two shots fired into the 
grass failed to displace her. She relapsed into an attitude of 
expectancy, and would not stir. In vain was she addressed 
in bad language and hooted at. An elephant was ordered 



43^ THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

to go in and stamp her out : he declined. To show that he 
acted on principle, he took a sapling and snapped it right 
across the animal's back. She only growled. Projectiles were 
hurled into the grass — oranges, Taunus, soda, and Apollinaris 
water bottles. Sir Jung seized the hunting-hat of the Raja 
behind him, and threw it at the tigress. That would not do, so 
he flung his own pith cap on the animal's head. Out she came, 
clawed her way through the convulsed and agitated throng of 
elephants, and made off. The Prince was close behind, got a 
good view, fired, and, struggling convulsively, the tigress expired. 
Thus in less than an hour a leopard and tigress were killed close 
to our camp of Mahullea. 

February 25. — To-day there was such a hunt as it comes 
rarely in any man's lifetime to see or enjoy. A herd of wild 
elephants, led by a tusker of enormous size, strength, and 
courage, who had engaged and beaten Sir Jung's best, was dis- 
covered in the forest some seven miles from camp. Sir Jung 
vowed they should be his. I started an hour or two before the 
Prince left camp, for I wished to ride quietly and have a look 
about me. There is no fear of losing one's way in the forest. 
There are always parties of soldiery sent in advance. There is 
also the track of the " pads ; " but it can be followed to a certain 
extent only by a horseman, as the elephant can go where the 
horses would be smothered, swept away, or pounded hopelessly. 
I overtook Mr. Simpson, of the " Illustrated London News," 
and Mr. Johnson, of the "Graphic,'^ on the same elephant, 
proceeding in friendly rivalry, and entered a forest of sal and 
dak, leafless, but glorious with scarlet flowers. After an hour 
and a half, I halted beyond the dry bed of a stream filled with 
boulders. In a few minutes afterwards Sir Jung galloped up 
with the Prince. He wore a quaint jockey cap with gold-laced 
peak, a suit of hemp of English make, and a pair of antigropelos, 
which are much in favor among the Nepalese. The Prince wore 
a shooting-coat of the color which tradition says was the favorite 
wear of the hero of Killiecrankie, boots, and breeches. At 11 
o'clock Sir Jung pulled up and said he would wait for news of 



WAITING FOR THE TUSKER. 43/ 

the wild herd, which could not be very far off. The halt afforded 
time to read the newspapers. In one was 2,jeu d' esprit which 
caused some amusement. Sir Jung desired to have the joke 
explained ; and his secretary, paper in hand, with an assiduity 
which was scarcely attended by the success it deserved, for a 
quarter of an hour or more sought to thrash" out the fun of the 
four lines of English into choice Hindee. Sir Jung's face 
became graver and graver ; at last he gave it up. 

Up came a Ghoorka hunter with full particulars. The 
indomitable tusker was covering the retreat of the ladies of his 
family to a pass a few miles ahead. Jung called to horse at 
once, leading at a hand-gallop through the "glades," like the 
wild huntsman of the German song ; but it was by no means 
" over the downs so free " — for there were too many " ups " — 
river-beds, boulder-beset, steep-banked, and besnagged by giant 
stumps. The horses seemed to know what was required of them. 
All that was needed was to look out sharp for the " checks," 
which, to horsemen riding hard in file, with excited horses, were 
much to be deprecated. It was a relief to come to a stream, so 
rocky-bedded, deep, and "ugly," that some dismounted, and all 
had to pull up. When all were on the other side. Sir Jung 
turned up the left bank for a few hundred yards. The horsfs 
were given over to the syces. The party proceeded up the river- 
bed till they reached a very steep bank, up which Sir Jung 
climbed, followed by the Prince. The river flowed out of a 
deep valley close at hand. It was down this gorge the tusker 
was expected to come. A screen was made by the Ghoorkas 
with their kookeries. Down in the gorge below us the wild 
tusker ought to encounter the redoubtable warriors who were 
hastening up. Every eye was turned towards the glen. The 
stalls and boxes were filled, the theatre was ready, but the actors 
did not appear. Sir Jung became impatient, jumped on the back 
of one of the Nepalese, and with two men at the side of his 
" mount," to steady him, was borne down the rocks, over the 
river-bed, and up the hill on the opposite side by his roadster, at 
a wonderful pace — certainly six miles an hour. He was lost to 



438 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

sight ere^one could finish a comfortable laugh. In a quarter of 
an hour he appeared, urging his bounding biped on his mad 
career. The wild tusker was making for the pass in which we 
had halted when the joke was not explained. All that remained 
for it was to ride with all speed to the place we had left. The 
harder Sir Jung rode the better spirits every one was in and the 
better the horses went. How it was no one came to grief is not 
to be understood. The old halting-place — a moraine — was 
reached, and all dismounted. Scouts were sent out, and it was 
proposed that lunch should be eaten. But, lo ! Sir Jung inter- 
rupted the hasty meal. "We are dead men if the elephants 
break down upon us. We must all get into trees." " But the 
horses?" "They must do the best they can. God will take 
care of them." He. was in earnest, and in evident alarm, and 
there was no time to inquire into the reasons he had for sup- 
posing that horses would be more favored by Providence than 
their riders. The Prince, who laughed at the idea of a tree at 
first, was persuaded to yield. Close at hand was a fine banyan, 
with spreading branches ; and on these, some thirty feet above, 
the Nepalese constructed a perch with their kookeries. The 
Prince clambered up to this stage ; Lord A. Paget, magna ad- 
juvante-caterva^ followed. Prince Louis of Battenberg, whose 
arm was still in a sling, shared a fork lower down with me. It 
.was wonderful to witness the agility and accrochant powers of the 
suite. But this display of latent talent and physical force went 
for nothing. The elephants did not come. The tusker had 
gone clear away through the forest between our roosting-place 
and the camp. 

Sir Jung's face was a picture to see, and if looks could kill, 
the fugitive was a dead elephant. " Call up the pads. Let the 
Prince mount at once," he exclaimed. But his Royal Highness 
expressed a wish to ride, and thereby secured the success of the 
day ; for there can be no doubt it was only the speed of the 
horses which enabled the party to come up with the runaway and 
bring him to bay ; and, finally — but I anticipate. If Sir Jung 
rode before, he flew now. It is wonderful how we got through 



IN PURSUIT OF THE TUSKER. 439 

that gallop ; for, to the difficulties of the nature already men- 
tioned to be negotiated, there was added the violent shying of 
the horses at the trumpeting pads. In ten minutes there was an 
awful clamor on our flank. Hundreds of pads, with mahouts 
and mallet-men, gelling like maniacs, passed at full speed in a 
succession of brown waves through the glade. The trackers had 
hit off the spot where the tusker had passed. They were in full 
pursuit. Sir Jung turned towards the plain. When the horse- 
men reached the verge of the forest, they saw before them, in a 
plain of high grass, a huge brown back, borne along on visible 
legs, reminding one very much of a half -submerged whale cleav- 
ing its way in a placid sea. The cheer that burst forth — a joy- 
ous English hunting " Tally-ho ! " " Hark-forward ! " — was 
such as was never heard before, and will probably never be heard 
again, in Nepalese jungle. The cry took the hunted elephant 
aback. He paused, raised his proboscis inquiringly, looked 
round with an air as of one who would say, " What manner of 
men be these ? " then, after a brief survey, he resumed his 
course for the swamp. The instant the elephant stopped. Sir 
Jung shouted, " Shahzadah ! Take care ! Look out, all of 
you ! You must not go near him ! In that long grass you 
have no chance of getting away ! " But when he saw the ele- 
phant was moving away, he clapped spurs to his horse and, 
keeping outside the thick grass, galloped in a line parallel to 
the course of the beast. Away went the Prince, away went 
every one, ventre a terre^ with a " Hark-forward ! " that made the 
woods echo. Very soon the horsemen were careering in front of 
the monster, on a piece of burnt prairie, where the reeds were so 
thick and stiff as almost to force one's foot out of the stirrup. 
It could be seen that he was sore distressed. He had been on 
the move incessantly from dawn ; had travelled over mountain 
and valley; had no time to rest or to eat ; his sides were heaving, 
his gait was heavy, he tossed his head wearily from side to side, 
showing one, and but one, very large tusk and the stump of an- 
other. But he was tremendous in bulk and stature. He came on, 
bigger and bigger as he loomed above the cleared space. Then, 



440 THE PRINCE OF AVALES TOUR. 

proboscis extended, his tail straight out, he stood and looked 
around ; suddenly uttering a shrill cry, he made a run at the 
horsemen, who were circling before him. There was something 
so ludicrous in the gait and attitude of the charging elephant 
that every one, as he bent down on his saddle and rode literally 
for his life, burst out laughing — all except Sir Jung, who, with 
one eye over his shoulder, kept calling out, " Look out, Prince ! 
Take care. Prince ! " (" Shahzadah ! Kuberdar ! ") But though 
the speed at which his strange shambling shuffle carried him 
along was extraordinary, the beast was much too fatigued to con- 
tinue it very long. He halted, blew a note of rage, swaying his 
head to and fro, and flapping his ears. It was of the utmost con- 
sequence to keep him in the open, and take as much out of him 
as possiblCj till the fighting-elephants could come up. In a 
moment the horsemen wheeled and swept round him, Sir Jung 
shaking his fist and using the most opprobrious terms to the in- 
dignant animal. Down went his head, up went proboscis and 
tail once more. This time he turned straight on the Prince, who 
was shaking with laughter as he put his horse — a splendid Arab 
— to his top speed. Fast as he went, the terrible proboscis was 
not many yards behind him for a second or two ; but the pace 
was too great to last. The horses evidently had the pull in this 
ground ; and there was nothing to fear but a fall or stumble, and 
then — well — " nothing can save you ! " Over and over again 
the bold attack and precipitate flight were repeated. It was now 
Mr. Rose, now Lord Suffield, now Lord Garington, who was 
singled out, as one happened to be nearest. All the party had 
the honor of a run in turn. Lord Alfred Paget * and Lord C. 
Beresford, who had remained on pad elephants, not expecting 
such a finish to the day, were out of the hunt ; and Prince Louis 
of Battenberg had given a jag to his broken collar-bone, and 
was returning to camp. 

All this time we were expecting the champions ; we were but 
the velites engaging the enemy till the solid infantry could come 

* I am told Lord A Paget, mounted on a pad elephant, had an excellent 
view of the whole scene. 



THE TERRIBLE PROBOSCIS. 44I 

up. Repeated messengers were despatched to hasten the fight- 
ing-elephants ; but the redoubtable Jung Pershaud was rather 
done about the legs, as is the manner of giants, and could not 
travel fast, and Bijli Pershaud was far in the rear. The hunted 
elephant, either too much fatigued to charge his persecutors any 
more, or having duly reflected on the best course to pursue, now 
set off at a quick walk in the direction of the marsh from which 
it was above all things desirable to keep him. In vain the horse- 
men capered in front of him, rode up to his flanks, and passed 
within switch of his tail. On he went, like a porpoise through a 
shoal of herrings, sweeping his proboscis right and left. It was 
exciting to be able to get so close to him ; it was irritating to be 
so powerless to control his course or divert him from his pur- 
pose. Nearer and nearer loomed the tall rushes, the waving 
reeds, the long feathery grass of the swamp. " He will escape, 
by Jove ! Can nothing be done ? Where are those wretched 
elephants ? " The Prince, Sir Jung, all make a final and close 
attack ; but he is not to be led away. He enters the swamp, 
the rushes and tall reeds close behind him ; he is lost to sight. 
There is an exclamation of something more than disappoint- 
ment ; but Sir Jung says calmly, " We are sure of him when 
Jung Pershaud comes up. That fellow will not go far ; he can- 
not leave the marsh." There was a belt of trees close at hand. 
All sat down in the shade. A Nepalese was sent up a tall tree. 
•' He sees the elephant," said Sir Jung. " The haramzadah is 
in a pool, splashing and cooling himself. It is as I expected." 
As the champions who are coming down have names, and 
" haramzadah" is not a nice one, I shall call the runagate Miser- 
rimus. 

Half an hour and more passed. All this time the army of 
pad elephants had been rounding the edge of the swamp, and 
we could see them draw up in a dense living barrier. Sir Jung 
sent off an aide-de-camp every five minutes. " He will quite re- 
cover," said Sir Jung, " if this goes on, and be able to fight his 
way out, perhaps ! " At last a bell, like that of a town-crier, 
was heard ringing from. afar. There was a joyous cry, " Jung 



442 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Pershaud is coming ! " The head of the great brute, painted a 
bright red, came in sight above the reeds. He was plodding 
heavily along, but with an evident air of business about him ; 
and, as if he had to keep an appointment with his antagonist in 
that precise spot, he went straight into the swamp. When Mis- 
errimus heard the strange clang of the bell swinging from Jung 
Pershaud's neck coming down on him, he slowly turned and 
swept away the reeds with his proboscis, so as to get a clearer 
view. Miserrimus had only one tusk and the stump of another ; 
but his perfect tusk was a beauty, and it ended in a very fine 
point. This he lowered, as if to receive cavalry. Jung did not 
give Miserrimus much time for reflection. He was a trained 
bruiser, and he was larger than the other, big as he was. Jung, 
moreover, had two very strong tusks, cut short, indeed, but still 
4 ft. or 5 ft. long, and bound round with brass rings to prevent 
fracture. Jung, raising his proboscis with a flourish, ran in, and 
when within a foot of his enemy's weapon swerved a little, and 
gave him what I can only term " a clout " on the side of the 
head. Miserrimus turned a little to get his sole tusk to bear. 
Jung, passing on towards his quarter, gave him a ram right on 
the beam, which fairly " reeled " him half over. The thud was 
like a stroke on the big drum in a silent theatre. It was followed 
by a fearful, battering, ram in the quarter gallery. That was 
enough for Miserrimus. " There's more," quoth he to himself, 
" where that came from ; " and as Jung drew back to administer 
ram No. 3, his antagonist fairly bolted, and, with unexpected 
nimbleness, set out for the open \ country, leaving Jung to beat 
the empty air. Miserrimus had evidently mastered the situation. 
" This trained assassin is bigger and stronger than I am, but I 
am more fleet of foot. I am refreshed by my bath, and I'll 
make for the forest, where horses cannot follow me. As for 
these pads — disgraceful females — I'll sweep them away like 
flies." Thus meditating, he received a dig in the stern from 
Jung Pershaud, which nearly sent him on his wise head, and 
quickened the resolve. There was a tremendous squelching in 
the grass, and in a minute more Miserrimus came out, heading 



THE " LIGHTNING CONQUEROR. 443 

for the wooded ridge. As he calculated, the pads and smaller 
fighting-elephants turned in the most abject terror. Jung made 
one more strenuous attempt to engage him, but Miserrimus was 
at least two knots faster; he slipped into the very wood- in which 
we were, long before the other could reach it. 

Horsemen in a forest have no chance of escaping an elephant. 
Sir Jung's anxiety was intense. " Don't go near him ! Keep 
him in view, that is all !" It was marvellous to see how the 
elephant, resistless as fate, crashed along, only turning for the 
larger trees. Miserrimus continued his career till he reached a 
small stream, and saw he would have to cross some open ground 
before he could reach the great forest. All our hope now was 
in Bijli Pershaud — the " Lightning " conqueror. The Prince 
had ridden out of the belt, expecting to see the fight renewed 
outside, and I was following, when I saw Sir Jung riding among 
the trees as fast as he could manage it, with Mr. Girdlestone's 
Arab horse-breaker " Bill " and Captain Grant after him. On 
the skirts of the wood was a deep, ditch-like stream. Sir Jung 
went at it and cleared the brook, but the horse very near lost 
his balance and slipped in. " Bill " sailed across like a bird. 
Captain Grant was over at the same moment ; I was obliged to 
go a little higher up. The horse breasted the bank, and sent 
me skimming gracefully along the ground on the other side ; 
but as my Arab did not attempt to run away, I was enabled to 
mount, thanks to Captain Grant, and follow my leader. I was 
surprised to see Sir Jung suddenly pull up outside the forest, 
shake his fist, and hear him pour out a volley of invective on 
some one inside. " He is abusing the elephant," said Captain 
Grant. " He is insulting his female relations, and calling him 
every name in the world ! ''' And there, sure enough, standing 
against a tree, was Miserrimus listening intently to Sir Jung, as 
if he were taking notes for an action of defamation. There 
were only the four of us. Whether he thought he could finish 
the little lot off-hand, or that his feelings were roused to mad- 
ness by a remark affecting the reputation of his deceased mother, 
I cannot say ; but without sound or note of warning, like a house 



444 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

undermined by a flood, he plunged into the stream, and was at 
us in a moment. At this supreme moment Bijli Pershaud 
emerged from the covert a few yards away. Not so large as Jung 
Pershaud, but comparatively fresh, and of great courage. Mis- 
errimus saw his new antagonist. He halted. " Fly from him ! 
never ! " So he set his fore legs a little apart, lowered his head 
and prepared for battle. Rash and ridiculous Miserrimus ! 
You are doomed. Bijli came on at full speed, and the two met 
with what ought to have been concussion of brains and smashes 
of frontal bones. It was a terrific encounter. Bijli was the 
quickest. Whether he was aided by the craft of man on his 
back or not, he delivered a tremendous blow on the port bow 
of Miserrimus which shook him from stem to stern, and seemed 
to spring a leak. Still Miserrimus tried to find sea-room for :. 
run, but Bijli had fairly " got him " now on his flank and kept to 
it. When Miserrimus ran, Bijli ran too, and, being faster, was 
always able to resume his station on the beam, and ram him 
before he could tack or wear. The Prince came in time to see 
the final defeat of Miserrimus, who, after several rallies, had 
just been caught en flagrant delit close to a tree. Bijli gave him 
a ram against it, which made the branches quiver. This was 
repeated. Miserrimus seemed quite stupefied. The attendants 
of the small fighting-beasts, who had now come up, passed a 
turn of rope round his hind leg, while Bijli sought to engage 
his attention by giving him resonant whacks over the head and 
eyes with his trunk. But Miserrimus felt the rope and broke 
away before it could be secured. He ran once more, followed 
by the relentless Bijli, pursued by the small fighting-beasts, and 
encircled by a cloud of horsemen. It was almost his last effort. 
Bijli gave him a stupendous and crashing ram in the quarter, 
which nearly sent him over. Then, and then only, poor Miser- 
rimus said, as plainly as elephant could say it, " I give in-!" 
There must be some elephant language as plain as any spoken 
words. He dropped his proboscis, as a vanquished knight 
lowers his sword point, blew a feeble tootle of a trumpet, full of 
despondency — a cry for mercy — and stood screening his shame 



"CUI LUMEN ADEMPTUM." 445 

with his huge ears. Bijli accepted the surrender on the in- 
stant. He approached in a fondling sort of way, wound his 
proboscis round the captive's neck, and, I daresay, compU- 
mented him on his very handsome resistance. '* But, after 
all, Miserrimus, the odds were against you. There was old 
Jung Pershaud, and you beat him, and did very well ; but I am 
' Bijli,' you know ! " As Miserrimus was thinking what answer to 
make to these compliments, the knaves with the ropes were at 
work again, and this time they made good their knot. He, how- 
ever, gave a tottering run, which put the horsemen to flight, but 
there was no chance — a great rope trailing behind him, Bijli and 
four fighting-elephants beating him over the head, and battering 
his poor sides ! Miserrimus stood still. Bijli stood before him, 
two. elephants patted him with their trunks, and jammed him 
between them on each side till a rope was made fast to the other 
hind leg, and both were secured. He was now regularly taken 
into custody. The deed was done, and the brave and chivalrous 
old warrior was beaten to his knee. And lo ! it was then dis- 
covered that Miserrimus was blind of an eye. He had, no 
doubt, lost it in the same fight in which his tusk had been broken 
off. Bijli had got at the blind side of Miserrimus. When this 
discovery was made, there was pity for Belisarius, and Sir Jung 
said, " I will let him go if the Prince expresses a wish that he 
should be set at liberty, but I hope to be allowed to offer his 
Royal Highness the tusk." The Prince at once demanded 
grace for the captive, and he was led away to a great tree, where 
he was moored by a veritable cable ; but he made one great 
effort to get away, and strained the tree to its summit ere he 
submitted. The cruel ropes, not as they always do for the good 
ship at sea, held fast. Then he uttered one very bitter cry. It 
is said that his wives answered him from afar, but for this I 
cannot vouch. There he stood, sullen and silent, rejecting with 
scorn the sugar-cane held out at arm's-length of his proboscis. 
Next morning Miserrimus was set free, and went off in search 
of his family, who treated him, I hope, with the respect due to 
the brave and unfortunate. When Sir Jung came over to the 



44^ THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

Prince's camp-fire that night, he was accompanied by men 
bearing the beautiful tusk, which had been sawn off soon after 
we left. So ended the elephant hunt, which was perhaps the 
" best day " in India. 

February 26. — There were two beats marked out, but the 
Prince returned without having had any sport, though led by 
Sir Jung himself. The camp elephants and camels had got on 
the ground and spoilt the shooting. The second party which 
went out for general shooting, in charge of Mr. Moore, Magis- 
trate of Bareilly, beating across a grassy plain, came upon a fine 
tiger, which Mr, Moore fired at and hit. The tiger sprang on 
the elephant of Mr. Robinson, placing one claw on the rifle, so 
that he could not fire, and tearing the mahout's leg. The 
elephant swung around, the tiger fell off, but sprang at the 
elephant again and clawed it cruelly. It then leaped on the 
mahout of the elephant carrying Colonel Ellis, and was tearing 
him down when Colonel Ellis, leaning down over the howdah, 
fired his rifle, and the tiger dropped, but not till it had lacerated 
the elephant's ear and the man's knee and leg. Surgeon Kellelt 
dressed the men's wounds, and the injured mahouts and ele- 
phants were sent back to camp. Half an hour afterwards an- 
other fine tiger was started, and killed in the open by a general 
volley, so that this was a great day for the outsiders, who had 
never expected such good fortune. 

February 27. — Mr. Robinson, none the worse for his tiger 
scare yesterday, read service. In the afternoon Sir Jung obtained 
the Prince's assent to display his army. The advance guard was 
composed of some dozen Lancers, well mounted, and dressed 
like our own native cavalry, Nepalese cap and crescent instead 
of turbans. Then a battery of six four-pounder brass guns. 
Each gun was slung on two bamboos, carried by ten men — four 
and six — muzzle and breach. Each limber was carried by 
twelve men, two men carried the ammunition in leathern cases 
on their backs. There were five artillerymen to each gun. In 
less than a minute the battery was in action ; in a minute it was 
out of action, in retreat. Then the battery was halted, counter- 



BALLET-DRILL. 447 

marched, advanced. " Halt ! action ! front ! " These lascars 
could get a battery over ground which would beat mules. The 
Rifle battalion, tall men in red tunics, like those of the British 
infantry, dark-blue facings and white braid, dark-blue trousers 
v/ith red cloth stripe, dark green Ghoorka cap with white circular 
roll round it, the badge (inverted crescent and sun) in front, and 
a chain of German silver on the upper part of the arm to the 
shoulder-strap. They were armed with muzzle-loading rifles, 
like our old Tower Minims, made in Nepal ; and in addition to 
the bayonet, carried the national kookery. The battalion went 
through the ordinary exercise to English words of command. 
When all appeared to be over, the band struck up a polka, and 
the whole battalion, moving at every bar from left to right and 
right to left, began the manual and platoon exercise, w^ords of 
command being supposed to be given by bars at regular in- 
tervals, the oscillating movement being all the while maintained. 
The pains — in more senses than one — that battalion endured to 
learn this exercise can scarcely be comprehended. Only a 
ballet-master could give due credit to the performers. The 
battalion, in open order, next went through the bayonet exercise 
to the same polka, swaying as at the beginning, in accord with 
the music. 

There was then a grand march-past, the Prince taking the 
salute. The band played " God save the Queen " and " God 
6less the Prince of Wales." It was altogether curious — the 
Heir-Apparent, in shooting-dress, in the midst of the Nepalese 
Terai, facing a regiment in which, if I am not misinformed, there 
was more than one real Pandy who burnt powder against us in 
1857-58. 

February 28. — The camp was raised to-day, and the party, 
shot across country to the site of the encampment called Mooza 
Panee. The sport was excellent. No less than four tigers fell. 
The Prince got one tiger, one boar, &c. ; Lord Suflield got one 
tiger (a very aged and worn-looking fellow, whose appearance 
gave rise to suspicions) ; Lord A. Paget got one tiger (7 feet 4 
in.), and Mr. Rose one tiger. In the general battue one of the 



448 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

beasts sprang on the Prince's elephant, and tore the cloth on 
which the howdah rested, coming very close to Peter Robertson. 
Another tiger escaped owing to a diversion made by a swarm of 
bees, which made a most savage attack on the party at a very 
critical moment, and stung the Prince very severely. The 
general destruction of cheetul, pig, &c., was very great, and 
Mooza Panee proved to be an excellent shooting station. 

February 29. — Shrove Tuesday. We are moving to the 
sanctum sanctorum, Bahminie Tal, the private and peculiar 
preserve of Sir Jung. The forests were set blazing, and in all 
directions, to keep the game in ; the air was filled with volumes 
or black smoke. This succeeded very well, and the sport was 
admirable as soon as the hunters got to their beat. The angle 
of the Nepalese Terai formed by the bend of the Sarda is 
covered with forest, swamps, and prairies, and is specially 
reserved for tigers, one reason being that men and women can- 
not, or, at least, believe they cannot, live there as soon as the 
unhealthy season begins. In Kumaoun and in Rohilcund Terai 
there is too much progress to favor the increase of tigers, and 
the Prince, when thanking General Ramsay, comforted him by 
observing that he knew the country was improving, and that it 
was not to be expected tigers could thrive there as well as men. 
Among other spoils, the Prince killed a curious maned tiger, 
said to be peculiar to Nepal. There was a heavy bag brought 
to the new camp. ^ 

March i. — Sir Jung was unable to accompany the Prince on 
account of illness, but the sport was good and the ground abound- 
ed in game. " Flies ! " There never was anything like them in 
the jungle hereabouts, not in Egypt at its worst ! I begin to pity 
the tigers, which are driven out of their haunts by these pests ; 
but I have no feeling of anything but wonder for the men who 
voluntarily go forth to be tortured by flies in order that they may 
kill tigers. These are smaller than the British flies, but to the 
eye they are otherwise alike. They seem quite content with the 
nutriment they extract from pith hats, leather, gun-barrels, how- 
dah seats, dry leaves, old newspapers, or anything on which 



ILLNESS OF CANON DUCKWORTH. - 449 

they settle, and I am quite prepared to believe that in April they 
are so numerous that it would not be possible to put a pin's 
point to the back of a man's coat without disturbing a fly. In 
seven days will begin the unhealthy weather. On the 8th of 
March commences the reign of fever over all who are not Taroos, 
which will drive the Nepalese out of the woods as if they were 
fly-tortured tigers. It is, however, rather unfair of the fever to 
have made some reconnaissances before its time. The Prince 
killed a fine tigress with six cubs (unborn). Lord Suffield shot 
a tiger which assumed a very menacing attitude, and obliged him 
to fire in self-defence ; and an odd lot of porcupines, deer, wild 
boar, pea-fowl, black-buck, duck, snipe, partridge, and plover 
were laid out before the tents when the shooting parties returned 
in the evening. 

March 2. — A telegram, which left no doubt that the illness of 
Canon Duckworth, of which news came a couple of days ago, 
had assumed the form of typhoid fever, caused general regret in 
camp. The Prince requested Sir Joseph Fayrer to start for 
Lahore, which is more than 500 miles away. At 10 a. m., 
although not quite recovered from the effects of his fall at the 
elephant hunt, he set out by elephant to the nearest railway 
station, where a special train was ordered. The country is by 
no means exhausted, notwithstanding the quantity of game killed. 
There was another good bag. The Prince shot a tiger upwards 
of 10 feet long, and the outside party enjoyed good shooting. 
In the evening the Prince and his suite were presented to the 
ladies of Sir Jung Bahadoor's family, his wife and his daughter- 
in-law, and two other relatives, who received the visits in a large 
tent. They were all very interesting in appearance and costume, 
and one was very pretty. 

Sir Jung still suffers from fever, and several of the Nepalese 
officers are indisposed ; but the Europeans are generally in good 
case, though the sun be exceedingly powerful. 

March 3. — We moved to Duknabagh on the Sarda, opposite 
Moondia Ghat. Hearing a hue and cry at the back of my tent 
this morning, I went out just in time to see a fine para fairly 

29 



450 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

hunted down. Another deer was taken in camp yesterday even- 
ing in a similar fashion. The Nepalese also exhibited their skill 
in taking fish, driving them with elephants up to a line of stake 
nets. There are boats or pontoons moored at the other side, 
and the fish, when they seek to leap over the nets, find they have 
got from Scylla to Charybdis. The jeels teem with snipe and 
coarse carp, but no one cares for birds or fishes when there is 
such abundance of grand game. The Prince got two fine tigers ; 
Prince Louis killed one j and there was a good score of pig, para, 
cheetul, &c. 

March 4.— Before the camp broke up there was an attempt 
made by the photographer to " take " the Prince and his shooting- 
party in their howdahs. These dear old elephants will do any- 
thing but keep ears, proboscis, and tails quiet; their ears are 
very large — no one can deny that the proboscis is a great feature 
— so that it is not easy to get a good negative of the " hathi," 
no matter how steady the outside passengers may be. This 
morning Sir Jung and his brethren came over to be subjected to 
the operation, and two groups were taken of the united parties. 
The shooting excursion to-day yielded a very fine tiger, 10 feet 
long and 19 inches round the forearm, to the Prince's rifle. 
There was also a deer hunt and a wild boar chase organized, but 
the results were not very important, and it is our last day in 
Nepal — the end of the visit to these happy hunting-grounds. 
To-morrow we move to the British side of the river. Guns and 
ammunition must be stowed away to-night, and the Prince's days 
in India may now be easily numbered, though his arrival in Eng- 
land is not to occur before May. 

March 5. — In the forenoon the Rev. Julian Robinson read 
Divine service. At noon Sir Jung and his brethren were seen 
coming from their camp, his Excellency bestriding a man, as is 
usual when he is in small health and does not mount his horse. 
The Prince met him at the entrance to the tent, and led him to 
a seat of honor. It was a farewell Durbar. The presents for 
Sir Jung included several very fine rifles, a silver statuette of his 
Royal Highness in the uniform of the loth Hussars, and many 



DEPARTURE FROM NEPAL. 45 I 

Other valuable souvenirs. His brothers and relatives were pre- 
sented with rifles and other arms, &c. Sir Jung begged Mr. 
Girdlestone to express his sense of the great obligations under 
which the Prince had placed Nepal, and those who had received 
marks of munificence far beyond anything that they deserved at 
his hands, and the Durbar was broken up. 

The less agile members of the suite were disconcerted when 
they were told that they would have to cross the river on pad 
elephants. The procession moved down to the river Sarda, 
bright, clear, and blue as the Rhone at Geneva, but twice as 
broad. The elephants could just ford it, causing the occupants 
of the pads on their island-like backs to squirm with the appre- 
hension that the beasts would take to swimming. The Prince 
was delighted at the idea of having a swim across on an elephant ; 
but the idea did not please Sir Jung, and the elephants gained 
British soil in safety by the ford. The camp was beautifully 
situated under a magnificent mangoe tope close to the river, 
which looked so tempting that some of the party mounted ele- 
phants, and went down to the most likely pools, where they tried 
fly and spinning for marseer, but in vain. Only one of these 
fish was caught by the anglers, who were not numerous — Lord 
Aylesford, Major Prinsep, and myself — in the several attempts 
we made on different occasions. 

March 6. — The end of our pleasant holiday in the Terai to- 
day ! Eager to come and eager to go. The mahouts appeared 
to take leave. Even the hathies were brought up to make salaam. 
The artful Jewanjee, the venerable bheestie, the kelassie, &c., 
duly paraded before my tent, but they were readily disposed of. 
Chitties and baksheesh, and away they went contentedly. After 
breakfast. Sir Jung, Bubbur Jung, Runodeep Sing, and other 
Nepalese officers came to camp to bid the Prince farewell. 
When Sir Jung was told that what he said yesterday in Nepal 
had appeared already in London he did not evince the smallest 
astonishment. Indeed, it would be very hard to excite that 
feeling, or, at least, to induce him to permit any expression of it 
to be detected in his face ; I doubt if he would have allowed any 



452 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



trace of emotion to have been visible had he been told that his 
speech had been duly printed in the moon. The leave-taking 
between the Prince and his officers, and the Nepalese Prime 
Minister, his relatives and followers, was of a very kindly and 
friendly nature. 




'M 



(^ />8fei tjfres uUoL M«ce i^ier '^ 
<*J u c 8 ve . . . ,. . . 

"tu potes tigres rabidos, macallister, 

DUCERE." 




tfffi to jL^p 



MARTYRS TO THUGGEE.' 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Bareilly — Allahabad — Chapter of investiture of the Order of the Star of India 
— The Prince and the Viceroy — Jubalpoor — More Thugs — Visit to Holkar 
— The Residency at Indore — Arrival in Bombay — Farewell to India. 

March 6 {co7itimied). — At 11.30 a. m. the Prince's equipages set 
out for Bareilly. A new road had been made for many miles 
through the forest, and the cortege bowled along at a famous 
rate through " Topey," Rohilcund. At Phillibeet the Rampoor 
Chief had made a small but pretty encampment, in which there 
was a room of gauze, supported on silver poles, under a great 
tree. Here one could enjoy the air without being pestered by 
the flies. Of Bareilly we saw nothing but illuminated roads ; 
but there were some of the party who had good reason to re- 
member one hot day in May, in 1858, when, outside its mud 
walls, the Ghazees broke through Colin Campbell's stout High- 
landers, and the Rohilla horse charged our siege-train. Major- 

453 



454 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

General Sam Browne — to be formally " Sir Samuel " to-morrow 
— left an arm not far from the side of our route. The Prince 
repaired from the Nawab's house to the mess of the i8th Royal 
Irish, where the evening passed so pleasantly that I am not. 
quite sure if the special train to Allahabad was not a little later 
in starting than the programme had it. From Bareilly, which 
the Prince left at 10.20 p. m., there was a continuous run, by 
special train, of nigh twelve hours by Shahjehanpore (where 
Hale made such a stout defence when the Moulvie came down 
on the 82d regiment, in 1858), to Lucknow, Cawnpoor, and 
Allahabad, which was reached at about 10 a. m. 

March 7. — There was much to be done, short as the Prince's 
stay was here. Lord Northbrook had arrived to see the last of 
his much wandering gifest. Sir Bartle Frere and Dr. Fayrer 
arrived from Lahore, where they left Canon Duckworth making 
fair progress towards recovery. There was a grand reception at 
the Station, and a State procession to the Lieutenant-Governor's 
house. An address was presented by the Municipality, to which 
the Prince made an appropriate reply. 

A Chapter of Investiture of the Order of the Star of India 
was held at i p. m. Major-General S. Browne, V. C, Major- 
General Probyn, and Surgeon-General Fayrer were invested as 
Knights ; and Colonels Ellis, Michael, and Earle, Majors Brad- 
ford and Henderson, and Captain Baring as Companions. In 
the afternoon, the Prince drove to the Fort and Canning Town. 
There was a large dinner at the Lieutenant-Governor's residence. 
The Prince and Lord Northbrook had a long conversation be- 
fore his Royal Highness went to the Station, to which he was 
attended in the same state as when he entered Allahabad in the 
morning. The train went off before midnight, amid loud cheers 
from a great crowd on the platform. 

March 8. — Travelling all night on the East India Railway to 
Jubalpoor, and all day on the Great Indian Peninsula Railway 
to Candwah (or Khandwa) on the way to Indore. At Jubalpoor 
there was one of the prettiest receptions possible, and a halt for 
breakfast at the hospitable mansion of Mr. Grant. 



SEVEN MISER ABLES. 455 

Afterwards the Prince was invited to see seven miserables 
who had been for thirty-five years in jail, having committed an 
incredible number of murders in pursuit of their jDrofession as 
Thugs. Their lives had been spared because they had turned 
approvers. What lives ! Five-and-thirty years within the prison 
walls ! The Prince questioned, them as to their trade and their 
feats in pursuit of it. I cannot say that, had we not known they 
were Thugs, we should have thought them remarkably villanous- 
looking — except one man, the most " venerable " of all, who had 
a hideous leer and ferocious mouth, and who could scarcely re- 
frain from chuckling when he said, in reply to a question as to 
how many people he had disposed of, with his hands together in 
a deprecating way, " Sixty-seven ! " I was experimented upon 
by this old gentleman, who, slipping the noose over one of my 
wrists, instantly gave it a turn outwards, and produced a disa- 
greeable sensation of numbness, and a tingling sensation in the 
fingers and up the arm. When the Prince was about to retire, 
there was subdued talk among the Thugs. Mr. Morris, who 
had been speaking to them, said they had a petition to offer to 
his Royal Highness. " What is it ? " They beg, sir, that you 
will be pleased to order that instead of three rupees a month, 
their present allowance, each of them shall receive four. It will 
make them quite comfortable." The Prince smiled, and said 
that, " If it could be done he hoped the increase might be 
granted ; very few of them would live long to enjoy it." They 
appeared as delighted when the Royal words were communicated 
to them as if they had just secured a fresh victim, and had found 
a purse of gold on its body. 

At Sohajpoor, 122^ miles from Jubalpoor, lunch was laid 
out in the Station, which was charmingly prepared for the Prince. 
Then the journey continued for five long hours. At Candwah, 
where the Prince dined, there was a long halt. Here the Holkar 
State Railway, narrow-gauge, commences, and we had to shift 
to much less comfortable carriages. At i a. m. the special train 
left the Station, and the party travelled slowly all night. 

March 9. — It was 6.30 a. m. when the train drew up at 



456 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Chowral on the Nerbudda, 57 miles from Candwah, the present 
terminus of Holkar's line to Indore. . Refreshments, tents and a 
large pavilion were prepared for the party. Sir H. Daly, Major- 
General Montgomery, Colonel Watson, Majors Bannerman, 
Cadell, Forbes, &c. ; the Malwa Bheel Corps, the Bhopal Bat- 
talion, the C troop Royal Horse Artillery, the 3d Hussars (de- 
tachment), the band, colors, and guard of honor of the 108th 
Regiment, detachment of the 23d Regiment, were waiting. 
Open carriages and relays of artillery horses at intervals of six 
miles all the way to Indore — an exceedingly interesting ascent of 
the Vindhya Range. On the- high lands in the famous opium 
district of Malwa, fields of poppies were spread out like carpets of 
Turkestan, far as the eye could reach. Five miles from Indore 
the glistening of arms attracted attention, and presently we made 
out a great triumphal arch, spanning the road. As the Prince 
approached, Holkar came forth with his chiefs to welcome him. 
He wore a Mahratta turban, the riband and badge of the Star of 
India; a fine collar of diamonds was his only ornament save a 
brilliant-ring — a single stone of great size. 

All the men that Holkar could turn out were under arms, and 
formed a picturesque if irregular line for more than four miles to 
the town. The Bhopal Battalion and Malwa Bheel Corps lined 
the road. I think it was observed by most of us that the air of 
the people in the quasi-Independent or Treaty States is bolder 
than it is in parts of India immediately under British rule. It 
was also remarked that several of the houses in the city had 
shutters up and jalousies closed. The people seemed prosper- 
ous, and we heard of great wealth in the place. The Prince was 
escorted by the Maharaja and his Sirdars to the house prepared 
for him by Sir H. Daly, but there was no incident worth noting. 
The Residency has undergone some changes for the better since 
the days when it was held so bravely ; but there is still the stair- 
case remaining by which Durand made his escape with the sur- 
vivors of that dreadful ist of July, nineteen years ago. There 
was a levee after the departure of the Maharaja, and the Chiefs 
of the district attended it in order to pay their respects. 



THE RESIDENCY AT INDORE. 457 

At 5 P. M. the Prince visited the Rajas of Thar, Rutlani, Jourah 
and Dewas, in acknowledgment of their attendance at the 
Residency ; after which he paid a visit to the Lallbagh, where 
his Royal Highness was received in Durbar. Holkar led him 
to a room where his presents were laid out, first taking off a bril- 
liant-ring and putting it on the Prince's finger. 

A State dinner followed in a pavilion erected for the occasion 
at the Residency, to which eighty European ladies and gentle- 
men received invitations. Holkar gave the health of the Queen, 
whose rule, he said, was founded on the principle of doing jus- 
tice to Princes and poor alike. After his health had been pro- 
posed by the Prince, he expressed the honor he felt at being 
visited by the son of the Queen at his poor capital, and begged 
to assure her of his loyal attachment. General Daly translated 
the speech, to which the Prince made an excellent reply. The 
Prince remained in conversation with the Maharaja's Minister 
for some time, and then went to the ballroom, where the Euro- 
pean ladies and gentlemen from the Stations round about had 
assembled. 

March lo. — The third volume of Sir J. Kaye's " History of 
the Sepoy War " has reached India, and the account of the Indore 
Mutiny has "provoked keen criticism. As I look out of my tent 
I find it difficult to picture the scene on that terrible day when 
the guns were pouring shot into the house above which now 
floats the Royal Standard of England, and whenTravers gathered 
up his handful of horsemen for that desperate charge. There 
are gardeners watering beds, from which come the perfume of 
roses ; the only noise audible, and it is quite loud enough, is 
from the camels and the hackery-wallahs waiting for our bag- 
gage. 

The Prince received the Chiefs of smaller note, and the offi- 
cers of the Bhopal and Malwha Bheel Corps. Five men of the 
Central India Horse who charged the guns on the ist of July, 
1857, seemed more than rewarded by the Prince's notice and 
the few words acknowledging their services. A group of Bheels 
performed graceful dances ; the men with bows and arrows, and 



458 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

garlands in their hair, dancing together ; the women, with heads 
and faces covered, and arms and legs ornamented with gold 
bands, also dancing in separate sets, to the sound of rather 
harmonious native instruments. The Prince, before his de- 
parture, thanked Sir H. Daly for his exertions in Central India, 
and for what he had done at Gwalior and Indore, and the Royal 
thanks were well and worthily bestowed. The departure of the 
Prince from Indore, his last excursion in India, was made in the 
same form as his entry ; and if I have said nothing more about 
these, it is because no matter how the occasion and locality may 
differ, there is necessarily a monotony which I, at least, cannot 
dispel. Holkar took his leave at the pandal at which he had 
received the Prince, and there was a pleasant drive over the 
plateau and down the Alpine road which descends the ghaut, to 
the special train at Chowral. 

"We shall be in Bombay to-morrow morning I Just think of 
that ! And then in two days more we are off towards home ! 
Hurra, my boy ! Hurra ! " The train started at 6 p. m., and 
reached Candwah, 57 miles, at 8.40 p. m. Here there was a 
banquet ; that is, there was a remarkable bill of fare ; but the 
dishes set forth thereon were by no means to be found on the 
table. Lord Suffield, in honor of the day, proposed the health 
of the Princess of Wales, for which the Prince returned thanks, 
and, in doing so, paid a tribute in most gracious terms to the 
officers in his personal suite and to those who joined him in 
India, and attributed much of the success which had attended 
his trip to their efforts. 

March 11. — It was ii a. m., and the sun was already un- 
pleasantly powerful as the ever-vigilant artillerymen announced 
the Prince's arrival outside the Churchgate Station, Bombay. 
The Station was carpeted, and the pillars wreathed with flowers. 
On the platform there were the Governor, the Commander-in 
Chief, and all the authorities, for there was to be a procession to 
the Dockyard. A guard of honor was furnished by the Marine 
Battalion ; the Governor's Body Guard and a squadron of the 
Poonah Lancers were told off as escort. The Staff preceded the 



RETURN TO BOMBAY. 459 

carriages, and his Royal Highness sat in the last carriage of all 
with the Governor. Parsee ladies in the brightest colors that 
dye can make formed groups of enthusiastic admirers, even 
though they were compelled now and then to content themselves 
with the sight of umbrellas only, for the sun was very hot. It is 
said, indeed, that many people went away because they were 
tired of waiting in the heat. One of the Bombay papers, excus- 
ing the city apparently for a lack of decorations, said that there 
was no time to allow of any extravagant display. But perhaps 
it would be more polite to say that the departure of the Prince 
was not an event which could be welcome to the city or to India. 
There was a continuous line of people for about two-thirds of 
the route ; at various points there were isolated groups of Parsees, 
knots of Hindoos and Mussulmen ; and the European store- 
houses, shops, hotels, and the like, presented an array of pleas- 
ant faces from window, balcony, and roof, the owners of which 
cheered and waved handkerchiefs, and expressed their delight 
at seeing the Prince again. The first battalion of the 2d 
Queen's, the 4th Bengal Native Infantry, the 20th Queen's, and 
the 21st Bengal Native Infantry were drawn up along the route. 
The platform and stands inside the dockyard-gate which had 
been prepared for the Prince's reception on his arrival from the 
railway station were occupied, but the Chiefs were there no longer. 
Instead of the welcoming inscriptions there was inscribed in 
golden letters over the portal the words " God speed you ! " A 
group of naval officers from the fleet was posted at the entrance ; 
a guard of honor of the G.I. P. volunteers, and guard, band, and 
colors of the 2d Queen's. There were many there, no doubt, 
who bade good-by to friends and acquaintances among the 
suite with but little likelihood of meeting again in this world ; 
but there were doubtless fast friendships formed which will be 
renewed, let us hope, on this side of the grave in a less sunny 
climate. 

The Prince stepped on board the steam-launch. Thirteen 
ships of war saluted. The Serapis, freshly decked with white 
paint and re-gilt, was nobler to look at than any bucentaur. It 



460 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

was SO pleasant to think that instead of going to wed the Adria- 
tic, the Prince was bound for home ! There was something 
more than official warmth in the cheers with which he was greet- 
ed, something more than the multiplied echo of Captain Bed- 
ford's regulation " Hip ! hip ! hurray ! " as, cocked hat in hand, 
that gallant mariner directed the enthusiasm of the men in the 
answering cheers aloft when he came alongside. • The day was 
spent on board, but the Governor invited the notabilities of 
Bombay to have the honor of meeting the Prince at Malabar 
Point at a farewell dinner. The entertainment was in all re- 
spects very agreeable. 

March 12. — At 11 A. M. the Prince attended Divine service 
on the quarter-deck. Mr. York read the service and preached 
a good sermon, but did not attempt "to improve the occasion." 
The land-breeze tried in vain to temper the muggy heat which 
wrapped us all round like a blanket, and at the best that same 
breeze is but a sorry and deceitful ally. It is difficult to agree 
with people in their praises of the climate of Bombay. Sir Joseph 
Fayrer will not admit that it deserves commendation. Reports 
of sickness have led to the issue of orders that if any natives go 
off they are not to be allowed to come on board again. Hence 
great despair. The melancholy Madrassee is a sad sight, but 
for profundity of grief, the Bombay boy seems far to surpass 
him. Admiral Macdonald gave a farewell dinner to the Prince 
on board the Undaunted, to which the senior officers of the fleet 
were invited. 

March 13. — Just this day, seventeen weeks ago, the Serapis 
cast anchor in Bombay Harbor. The Prince has travelled near- 
ly 7600 miles by land and 2300 miles by sea, knows more Chiefs 
than all the Viceroys and Governors together, and has seen more 
of the country in the time than any living man. Soon after dawn 
all were alive and stirring between decks — not so much stirring, 
indeed, as trying to stir, for it was with difficulty one could move 
until the Chinese and a detachment of sailors had cleared the 
boxes, bales, baggage, bundles, parcels of all kinds. About 
these mounds of private property the natives servants wandered 



"ULTIMUR IN INDIS.** 46 1 

disconsolate. No doubt in many hours of hard work their souls 
had been cheered by the thought that when we had gone they 
would appear all glorious in their scarlet coats, slashed with gold- 
lace, adorned with the silver plume of the Prince, and perambu- 
late the bazaars, the admiration of all their fellows ! But Major 
Sartorius had issued a ukase. The clothing must be given up. 
Finally it was settled that the gold-lace should be taken off, and 
that the clothes should be dyed another color, and given back 
to the servants. The whole matter quite unimportant, but for 
the proof of microscopic vision and of thoughtfulness on the 
part of the authorities. 

Sir Philip Wodehouse, attended by Captain Jervoise and Mr. 
Lee Warner, came on board at i p. m. ; next Rear- Admiral 
Macdonald and Sir Charles Staveley arrived soon afterwards. 
Then came the deputation — Parsee and Hindoo merchants for 
the most part, and three or four Europeans — Dr. Hewlett, Mr. 
Maclean, Mr. Peddar, &c., with the farewell address of the Bom- 
bay Corporation. The Prince requested Mr. Karaka's (the 
chairman) acceptance of a souvenir — one of the medals pre- 
sented to Rajas. 

Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy and his family had a farewell audi- 
ence. Major-General Sir Samuel Browne, V. C, Major Brad- 
ford (special service). Major Henderson (political service). 
Major Ben Williams {in charge of the transport and stud, &c.). 
Major Sartorius, V. C. (in charge of the J>erso7tne/ of the camps), 
whose services the Prince so fully appreciated, came to take 
leave. There was certainly no exaggeration in the compliment 
paid by the Prince, when he associated these officers with 
the success of his Indian tour. Sir Samuel Browne — his 
friends take away the last two syllables of his Christian 
name — had to arrange trains, carriages, from the begin- 
ning to the end. And one who saw how quietly all was done 
would admit that " General Sam's one hand and arm are worth 
two of most people's." Major Bradford had charge of the 
Prince's personal safety. His quiet vigilance never relaxed ; 
nothing escaped him ; his surveillance extended from Ceylon to 



462 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



the Himalayas, and even into Nepal ; no one would ever think 
he had any more onerous work than playing a hand at lawn 
tennis. Most amiable, gentle, and kind of men, he was obliged 
to create small Siberias on occasion, and the number of people 
who " got locked up " all of a sudden will never be known, not 
even if a return be moved for in the House. Major Hender- 
son's experience rendered his assistance in ceremonies of state 
of the highest value. If any came to grief on the horses which 
Major Williams provided, it was not the fault of that excellent 
officer ; and Major Sartorius's name and services are too well 
known to render any eulogy of mine necessary. 

Admiral Macdonald was the last to leave ; with full eyes he 
bid the Prince " Good-by ! " It was 3.45 p. m. Then came 
the strokes of the bell, which set the engines in motion. The 




ON THE WAY HOME. 



FAREWELL TO INDIA ! 463 

Prince stood on the bridge as the Serapis slowly forged ahead. 
The farewell salute was fired. As soon as the smoke cleared 
away, the signal " God speed you ! " was seen flying from the 
Undaunted. The Serapis made i^ply, " Thanks ! We look for- 
ward to next meeting ! " Through the drifting vapor of gun- 
jDOwder, the shore/growing dimmer and dimmer, as it reflected 
the fading rays of the declining sun, was watched, until the out- 
lines of the hills faded into cloudland, and darkness fell on the 
face of the waters. The Col aba Light long threw its sheen on 
the foam which marked our wake, but was lost at last amid the 
stars. Farewell to India ! 



n _ 




UNDER ONE FLAG. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Homeward Bound — St. Patrick's Day — A Stern Chase — Aden once more — 
Perils by night — Visits on Board — Suez — Lord Lytton — Cairo — The 
Khedive — The Grand Duke Alexis — The " Svetlana " — Alexandria — A 
Rat-Trap— Malta— Gibraltar. 



March 14. — Those who were on the shady side of the ship on 
the voyage out have now the full advantage of the rising sun, 
and as he is rather strong in these parts, the benefit is not as 
much appreciated as it probably would be in England about this 
time of year. At noon, latitude 18° 4' n. ; longitude, 69° 2' E. 
distance run, 218 miles. Aden Light-House distant 1419 miles. 
Some curiosity was felt to see how the elephants wt)uld behave. 
Nothing could be better or more composed than their conduct. 
The cheetul presented at Ceylon has complete freedom of the 
ship, the Prince's state cabins and bedroom included, but partic- 
464 



ST. Patrick's day. 465 

ularly affects the smoking saloon. She appears to live on any- 
thing, eats fresh vegetables or cotton-wool, and has been known 
to accommodate her appetite to putty and tobacco. At 10.15 ^' ^^' 
passed the Pcshawiw^ bound with mails for Bombay. Signal was 
made to the Osborne to follow and get papers. 

March 15. — At 8 a. m. a slight breeze sprung up, but it soon 
died away, and there was little to do but to read ; the papers 
proved a great solace. The intelligence that the Queen would 
assume the title of Empress of India had reached before the 
Scrapis left in the ordinary way and had been much discussed, 
and the reports of the debates in Parliament, which were received 
by the last mails, were read with profound interest. No incidents. 

March 16. — Thermometer 80°. At noon, Aden 893 miles 
distant; latitude, 15° 59' n. j longitude, 60° 4'; distance run, 
273 miles. 

March 17. — " Incidents '' scarce, as usual. The Osborne 
came alongside, in order to exhibit her two elephants salaaming. 
One of the playful little tigers made a sudden clutch at Mr. 
Hall as he was passing him, and tore his pantaloons from knee 
to ankle. The four-horned deer took it into his foolish head 
to jump into the sea and was lost. A distribution of a very small 
piece of shamrock, sent last mail by a thoughtful compatriot, 
gave little sprigs to Lord Charles Beresford, Dr. Watson, Cap- 
tain Gough, Lieut. Lambert, Lieut. Lowry, and Lieut Burrowes. 
The band at and after dinner played a selection of Irish airs in 
honor of the day by desire of the Prince. 

March 18. — Signal made to the Raleigh to put on all speed 
and chase, as if to ram the Serapis^ then running over twelve 
knots an hour. A stern chase is a long chase, but the Raleigh 
vindicated her reputation, coming up in a masterful style as if 
to send us to the bottom, when, with a light touch of the helm 
she shot past as close as her yard-arms would permit on our 
starboard quarter. The Prince was on deck. The way in which 
the Raleigh was handled gave him great satisfaction. It was 
curious enough to see the figure-head and read the name of the 
hapless courtier breasting the Arabian seas as she passed us. 
20* 30 



466 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Sunday March 19. — A breeze right astern ; very grateful. 
It was dark as the Serqpis approached Aden. We had great 
difficulty in our moorings, as the wind was strong. A good deal 
of nervousness and electricity about. It was exciting, for there 
were only four inches of water under the ship's bottom. The 
Resident, Brigadier Schneider, came off with Colonel Penn and 
the staff of the Station. They were disappointed that the Prince 
had not arrived in time to go ashore, where everything had been 
prepared to do him honor. 

The purchase of Socotra has given satisfaction, and it is ac- 
cepted as a sign of active interest for which people living at 
Aden are very grateful, because they are very much like the sig- 
nal-men at the Clapham Junction, who witness a continual suc- 
cession of trains going and coming. There is uneasiness about 
the comparatively defenceless condition of Aden. There is a want 
of ii-inch guns, and in due time let us hope this want will be 
remedied. 

March 20. — The coaling finished at 2.15 a. m., and the Sera- 
ph and Osborne was steaming out of Aden Roads before 3 a. m. 
Perim was in sight at 11.30 a. m. Some languid excitement was 
created in the afternoon by the appearance of the P. and O. 
steamer, which we had left behind at Aden, coming up fast astern, 
the Raleigh, with all sails set, overhauling both. 

March 21. — At 1.15 a. m. the look-out saw something dark in 
the water, with a white streak at its base. " Breakers ahead ! " 
We were running right on Lebaju Island, but it was a con- 
siderable distance off. Our course was altered at once, and, in 
doing so, the ship came broadside towards the sea, which at once 
availed itself of the opportunity to have a run inside, rousing up 
the sleepers, who, with many cries of distress, had to make shift 
for dry quarters. I was amongst the sufferers, and, kicking off 
my wet sheet, crept up into the saloon and slept on a sofa. 
At 5.45 A. M. the P. and O. steamer Assajn, going eastwards, 
signalled that she had service-letters ; slowed, and took them on 
board. The P. and O. Hydaspes, which had dropped behind, 
came up hand over hand at dusk, and before nightfall was out of 



APPROACHING SUEZ 46/ 

sight. We had 30 additional stokers, and 16 Arabs, making 96 
hands in all ; but 40 of the crew and marines were sent down to 
the stoke-holes, for which they receive double pay. 

March 22. — At 8 a. m. our speed was little over 10 knots, but 
the wind from the north came through the ship and reduced the 
heat to 78° — a very agreeable change. Deck tennis. No inci- 
dents. 

March 23 — A visit was paid by the port tiger to the larboard 
tiger. One got loose and had a little play, very much by itself, 
on deck before it was minded to turn into its cage. Speed down 
to 9*4 knots. At noon observation gave lat. 23° 2i2l ^-j ^o^^g- 
36° 59' E., distance runs 235 miles. Daedalus Light, iii miles ; 
Suez, 465 miles. The mountain ranges over Berenice came in 
sight just before dinner. 

March 24. — At 6 a. m. the Osborne was dispatched to Suez 
to telegraph to Lord Lytton at Cairo that the Serapis would not 
arrive in time to receive him to dinner, but that she would prob- 
ably reach Suez at 2 a. m. The new Governor-General is a pei- 
sonal friend of the Prince. 

It seems very appropriate that the Prince, returning from India 
full of fresh impressions, should meet in Egypt the representa- 
tive of the Crown, now Imperial, who is going to Hindostan to 
carry out a policy which will doubtless bear marks of the agen- 
cies developed during the Royal Tour, and the sympathies and 
objects indicated in the addition of the title of Empress to those 
by which the Queen has hitherto been known to her subjects. 
At noon the Suez Light-vessel was still 210 miles distant. Shad- 
wan S. point 37 miles ; lat 25° 56', long. 34^^ 29' e. Siesta, 
deck tennis, reading, music, enable us to get over the day, and 
there was the excitement of the usual " lottery " concerning the 
hour of arrival, which was won by Major-General Hardinge. 

March 25. — There was a very picturesque reception at Suez 
at 8 o'clock this morning. The weather delicious, men-of-war 
and merchantmen decked in their best ; the quays of the noble 
docks decorated with flags and lined with troops. Lord Lytton, 
who was accompanied by Lady Lytton and Colonel Burne, came 



468 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

on board at 9 A. m., and the Prince had a long conversation with 
him after breakfast. The interview was all too short ; for the 
train was timed to reach the Egyptian capital at 6.45 p. m., and 
the Governor-General was very desirous to take away as much 
daylight with him as he could down the Straits of Jubal ; but no 
doubt it was of mutual advantage. At Cairo the Prince found 
the Khedive, his sons, and the Grand Duke Alexis waiting to re- 
ceive him. And his welcome was cordial and stately. We were 
installed in our old quarters in the Gezireh Palace, the rooms 
very much as if we had left them yesterday. The Grand Duke 
Alexis, a tall, stalwart sailor, with massive brow, keen blue eyes, 
and a pleasant smile, came to dinner. He' has a frank manner, 
which tends perhaps in the direction of abruptness, as if the sea 
air had a little corroded the Imperial varnish, but he is a very 
good officer, and he certainly was very gracious and agreeable to 
the suite. We found the Court in a state of great depression. 
Nubar Pasha's familiar face and kindly presence are missed — 
he is once more out of office — this time it is said never to be re- 
stored, and Chereef Pasha is master of the situation, as far as 
the Khedive permits any minister to be so, for he is " maitre chez 
luiy The statement that the Khedive had requested that Mr. 
Cave's reports should not be published had produced the utmost 
astonishment and anger, and at the present moment " the Eng- 
lish interest " is very much down indeed. But who, to see the 
Khedive doing the honors to-night at the Opera (where we had 
Flick und Flock and La Pruova di un Opera Seria, admirably 
given, Signor Fioravanti reviving the recollections of Lablache 
in Campanone), could have supposed that his Highness had to 
pay 4,000,000/., and to be ready with 600,000/. in a fortnight, 
and that the Finance Minister had no money, and said he did 
not know where to get any ? He was as light and debonnair as 
ever, and two princes were lodged in his palaces, and entertained 
sumptuously every day. The Prince remained at Cairo from the 
25th of March till the ist of April. It was desirable to avoid 
the inclement weather which generally prevails in England at 
this time of year, and it was also necessary to adhere to the time 



THE KHEDIVE. 469 

fixed for the visits to the Courts of Spain and of Portugal before 
the. Prince arrived home. Telegraphic communication was 
easy, and there were daily bulletins which diminished anxiety. 
The time passed pleasantly, as it always does for those who are 
guests of the Khedive till the Khamseen wind set in, and that 
is an infliction that even his resources cannot evade or alleviate. 
I do not propose to continue the daily record of events. 
There were operas and the theatre, concerts and banquets at the 
Palace, dinners, great and small, excursions, and, I may add, 
alarms ; for in the midst of all this gayety, there was Turkey 
near at hand struggling with wide-spread revolt and menaced 
with ruin, in which Egypt must be in some measure involved ; 
there was imminent trouble at home, immense financial pressure ; 
war with Abyssinia only just suspended by overtures of doubtful 
submission from the enemy. But the Khedive never exhibited 
any symptoms of malaise^ irritation, or despondency. Like the 
Lord Mayor of London who expressed his belief that the me- 
tropolis would get on very well as long as the Thames was not 
taken away, the Viceroy seems to think that Egypt has nothing 
to fear as long as the Nile pours down its beneficent flood. His 
fertile brain is forever busy with plans for the development of 
the influence and resources of the country, from the embellish- 
ment of Cairo to the extension of his power to the confines of 
Zanzibar. As under Papal rescripts the Kings of Spain and 
Portugal claimed all the Indies, East and West, the Khedive 
holds fha^ he is entitled as successor of the Caliphs of Egypt to 
pu^n his empire till arrested by some st^able, well-established 
power. He desires to have a neutral territory guaranteed by 
some European Power between Egypt and Abyssinia, but will 
not consent to give a foot of sea-coast. The Coptic Abouna, 
whom he regards as the great mischief-maker, is said by Mr. 
Flad, who is now in Cairo, to be largely engaged in the Slave- 
trade. The same authority declares King Johannes to be a mon- 
ster of cruelty, and holds that ther-e will be no peace in Abys- 
sinia till it is ruled by Egypt or by some strong power — the best 
solution of the difficulties of the situation, he thinks, would be 



470 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

the selection of Theodore's son, now in England, to be King, 
under Egyptian protection. There were excursions to the Pyr- 
amids and to Sakkarah, and quail shooting ; but the Khamseen 
was quite well developed on the 31st of March, the last day of the 
Prince's residence. During the week we lost Sir Bartle Frere's 
society — the mitis sapientia LcbH — and Lord Alfred Paget's co- 
operation in doing whatever was to be done in the way of "life," 
for by the Prince's permission they proceeded direct to Europe. 
On the I St of April the Prince bade farewell to the Khedive at 
the Cairo Station. The special train left at 2.45 p. m., and ar- 
rived in Alexandria at 7 p, m. There was a large and rather 
tumultuous crowd, and the streets were filled with people all the 
way to the dockyard. There boats were waiting, and once more 
the Serapis received the Royal traveller and gave his followers 
welcome shelter. There was a large dinner on board, at which 
the Grand Duke Alexis and the senior officers of his suite and 
of the Russian Corvette Svetlana were present. The Prince, 
after the health of the Queen, proposed that of the Czar ; and 
the Grand Duke, in returning thanks, gave the health of the 
Prince, which was received with the heartiness inspired by the 
satisfaction that he was on board safe and well after the accom- 
plishment of a most interesting and valuable enterprise. 

April 2. — At 8 A. M. t\iQ Raleigh, Research, Invincible, Svetlana, 
and the Egyptian ships and batteries saluted the Prince's flag. 
It blew hard ; there was a chopping sea in harbor. Divine ser- 
vice at 11.30 A.M. The Grand Duke Alexis gave a dinner on 
board the Svetlana, to which the members of the suite were in- 
vited. The evening passed very agreeably ; and after an inter- 
change of toasts, in one of which the Grand Duke observed it was 
not the least agreeable incident to him that it was a Russian frig- 
ate which was the first foreign vessel to receive the Prince on 
his return from visiting the Indian possessions of England — at 
which there was much cheering — the party mounted to the upper 
deck, where there was a very characteristic and interesting enter- 
tainment given by the crew — one of the equipages of the Imperial 
Guard — very fine, soldierly-looking sailors. They sang admi- 



DEPARTURE FROM ALEXANDRIA. 4/1 

rably those sweet and rather melancholy melodies which one hears 
chanted by Russian regiments on the march, as well as some 
livelier airs, and these were interspersed with dances, but the 
chef-d'mivre^diS a musical drama or operetta, in which the deeds 
of the pirates of the Volga, were recounted by a tall, picturesque 
sailor, whose solos were sustained by spirited choruses. As he 
sang, he walked round and round in the semicircle of sailors, now 
and then advancing to the company, with a great air of bravado, 
and delivering his words with immense animation in a rich, 
round voice. After cordial farewells, the party returned to the 
Serapis, where all was in readiness to sail next morning, if the 
weather permitted. 

April 2). — At 5.15 A. M. the Serapis, followed by the Invincible^ 
Raleigh^ and Research, weighed and stood out of Alexandria Har- 
bor. The frigates, and the batteries, from Ras El Teen to the wind- 
mills, roused up the sleeping city with a salute, which drowned 
the cheers of the sailors. There was a heavy roll on the bar ; 
but the harbor has been so much improved that there was none 
of the anxiety about touching, which certainly would have been 
not unfounded some years ago in such a sea. At 8.45 a. m. the 
fog-horn sounded, and a gun was fired from the senior officer as 
a warning to the squadron before entering a bank of haze. A 
few minutes afterwards a flash of lightning came straight down 
from a small, round, black cloud, and struck the sea a couple of 
miles from the Serapis. It was followed by a short roll of thun- 
der, abrupt as the report of a great gun. The haze lifted in an 
hour and a half. The Invincible and the Raleigh were in sight j 
but the Research had dropped away astern. 

The thermometer marked 650, and men complained of cold. 
The manis,^ the curious mailed ant-eater, died to-day, and it is a 
positive fact that three several persons when told of it, in order 
to try them, fell into the trap, and gravely said, " Peace be to his 
manes ! " There is no punishment for such offences except re- 
cording them. 

* A Pengolin. Manis tetradadyla. 



472 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

April a^. — Now here is a fact to note. From the time the Prince 
landed in India till this morning there has not been a shower of 
rain. I except Ceylon, where it rained torrentially. There was 
a dreeping shower at Jummoo, and a patter for five minutes on 
the tents in the Terai. Now, in this sunny Mediterranean, we 
are favored with a downpour. But it is quite calm. Somehow 
or other the sun was " brought down " in a lucid interval at noon, 
and our run from Alexandria was put at 268 miles, distance from 
Malta 489 miles (lat. 330 7' n., long. 230 52' E.) 

April ^. — The sea is in a rascally humor. It is too cold to 
have the ports open, but there are strong plate-glass slides ad- 
justed to the port-holes, which seem to fit very nicely and to be 
quite reliable, as the Americans say — it is a good word after all 
— for keeping out the waves. Trusting to the appearance, I went 
to sleep, and in the middle of the night was suddenly awakened 
to the certainty that the sea had surged in through the port, and 
that my blankets and cabin were saturated. The rats have be- 
come very active. My boots suffered especially j so my ingenious 
and kindly neighbor, Lord Charles Beresford, prepared a trap, in 
which several of the miscreants were caught, but not being quite 
so confident of the results of his mechanical ability as I should 
have been, I removed the undevoured boots, and was duly objur- 
gated for my unfeeling conduct in " spoiling sport and taking 
away the bait." The rigging full of pretty fly-catchers and mota- 
cillce all day ; but there are scoundrel kestrels about, which, hav- 
ing probably chased them out to sea, pursue their prey on board. 
They boldly strike their victims and pick them to pieces on the 
yard-arms. 

April 6. — At dawn Malta was in sight just like a cloud in the 
west, and at 7 a, m. the little Helicon came in view, dancing over 
a rolling sea, with the Admiral Sir James Drummond's flag 
aboard, and bags of letters for the squadron. As soon as the 
Se?'apis \N2iS within a mile of St. Elmo the saluting began ; when 
she opened the entrance to the great harbor, the thunder of guns 
from forts and ships, and cheers from parapet, and ringing and 
tinkle of bells made such a clangor as was quite wonderful. 



MALTA. 473 

No less than eight addresses were proposed for presentation 
to the Prince on landing. These were condensed into one, or, 
more properly speaking, one address was made to do duty for 
the island, which desired to express its loyalty through eight dif- 
ferent channels — masonic, clerical, ecclesiastical, legal, medical, 
educational, aristocratic, and commercial. 

There were some pretty touches of Oriental, or, at least, of 
Southern sentiment and taste in the details of the preparations. 
When the Prince landed, he saw before him the statues of eight 
Grand Masters of the Knights of St. John — LTsle Adam, who 
led the Order to Malta and established it there after the con- 
quest of Rhodes by Solyman ; La Valette, the gallant defender 
of the island against Moustafa, and the hero of the famous siege, 
on which the eyes of Europe were fixed so long, whose name is 
perpetuated in that of the city ; De la Sangle, the legislator ; La 
Cassiere, the Founder of St. John's Church ; Vignacourt, the 
builder of the great Aqueduct ; Cottoner, the creator of " the 
lines ; " Manoel, the constructor of the great fort ; and Emman- 
uel de Rohan, who gave a code of laws to the island, and died 
just in time to escape the melancholy distinction of being the 
last Grand Master. It was a good idea to line the noble stair- 
case of the Palace, up which the Grand Master was wont to ride 
on the day of his election, with non-commissioned officers of the 
corps in garrison. There were numerous presentations at the 
Palace, but there was no levee. 

The enthusiasm of the multitude was a very agreeable testi- 
mony to the popularity of the Prince ; it can scarcely be main- 
tained that British protection can be unpopular if the Heir to 
the Crown can be received so warmly. The people, who are 
not rich, subscribed largely to decorate the streets, prepare trans- 
parencies and fireworks. The dinner given by Sir W. and Lady 
Van Straubenzee was one of the grandest which the old Palace 
had ever seen since the great banquet on the occasion of the 
surrender of the island to the French. 

April J. — There is an old gentleman named " Paolo," — what 
his other name is I know not — holding office high among the 



474 - THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

servitors, in the Palace, who is among the institutions of Malta. 
He first came into office with General Ponsonby, and since that 
time he has seen nine Governors come and go ; and, like the 
major-domo at the White House, Washington, he regards him- 
self as the only stable part of the administrative machine. He 
knows every inch of the building, and is especially conversant 
with the gallery of armor, where there are many interesting 
things, for which see the Guide-books.^ Paolo says, " No peo- 
ple rule this place very long, but it will always be strangers who 
will do so. The Maltese belong to no one, and must be taken 
care of." However, there is a nationality, but it certainly has 
no claims to be Italian, and the most intelligent of that intelli- 
gent Maltese race, feeling the pressure of increasing population, 
are given to projects of founding colonies in Africa, where their 
people certainly thrive and flourish. There is, at any rate, 
plenty of room for them between Algiers and Egypt. 

The 98th Regiment, Sir Colin Campbell's favorite corps, re- 
ceived new colors from the Prince on the Floriana Parade- 
grounds to-day. Although it did good service in China and the 
Punjaub, it had now no distinctive appellation. It was ^ first 
raised as " the Prince of Wales' Tipperary Regiment ; " how 
it lost that title I ani unable to say. After the ceremony, which 
is one of the most tedious that ever was invented, at least for 
those who have to look at it, the garrison, which consisted of the 
42 d Highlanders, the 71st Highland Light Infantry, the 74th 
Regiment, the loist Regiment, and the British and Maltese 
Artillery, about 4000 strong in all, marched past the Prince. 

There was a State dinner at the Palace. It is Lent time, 
and there is only one day during the Prince's stay considered 
eligible for rejoicing. The old Catholic families of Malta did 
not think it right to attend the ball at the Union Club in the 
evening. Certainly their absence was scarcely noticed, for the 
rooms were well filled, and the committee had done everything 
to render the entertainment worthy of the Prince ; but it would 
have been more agreeable to one's notions of the becoming had 
the native nobility and gentry been present. 



TARGET PRACTICE. 4/5 

April 8. — There was a pretty exhibition of artillery practice 
from the batteries to-day, but the results must have satisfied non- 
professional people that "sound and fury" may "signify noth- 
ing." Shortly before noon the Prince drove to St. Elmo, and 
took up a position on the concrete roof of the magazine below 
the Light-House. It had been intended to have experiments 
with torpedoes in conjunction with practices from the batteries, 
to show the Prince the range of the new armament, and the 
powers of resistance j but the Telegraph Company called atten- 
tion to the danger to the submarine cables, and, as scientific 
officers would not give an assurance that these apprehensions 
were not well-founded, the torpedo experiments were consequent- 
ly postponed. 

The practice was at floating octagon targets i6 feet long, at 
1 2 GO, 1500, and 2000 yards, from 11 -inch guns, iio-lb. breech- 
loading Armstrongs, 80-lb. and 64-lb. Palliser's converted guns, 
and began from the batteries soon after noon. The general 
fault of the firing was that the shots were "short." Certainly 
the result seemed to justify the impression that an iron-clad 
moving seven or eight knots an hour at 1500 yards could sub- 
ject guns en barbette and in casemates to destructive fire without 
much danger of being injured. The Devastation^ flying the 
Danish flag, which had been saluted at noon as it was the King 
of Denmark's birth-day, steamed out of harbor for Gibraltar. 
Naval men said she could have laid Ricasoli, St. Elmo, and 
Tigne in ruins. The clamor was tremendous, and as far as 
picturesque effect went the scene was beautiful. None enjoyed 
it more than the native aides-de-camp, Anoop Sing and Afzil 
Khan, who have been our quiet and observant companions from 
Bombay. The Prince then left St. Elmo and drove to the Las- 
caris platform, overlooking the great harbor, to witness a general 
fire from all the works to resist an enemy, represented by two 
gun-boats, one from east and the other from west. The parapets 
were lined with infantry. Every sea-face battery opened, at 
ridiculous distances, on the gun-boats, and continued till their 
ammunition was exhausted. It was very pretty, but useless. 



4/6 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Everything was soon hid in smoke. The noise was tremen- 
dous. Th'e gun-boats were miles away. When all was over 
they steamed in, and claimed the capture of the place. . 

The Prince lunched at Sir Victor and Lady Houlton's, and 
after dinner at the Palace went to the Opera, where there was a 
creditable -performance of La Muette de Portici, 

Palm Sunday. — April 9. — The Prince attended Divine ser- 
vice at the Protestant church, which was crowded. Bishop 
Sandford preached. At the conclusion of the service the Prince 
drove with the Governor and party to Vedella, to lunch, and 
returned about 4 p. m. As the steam-launch was going across 
with the Prince and his party^ who were to dine with Colonel 
Macdonnel and the officers of the 71st Regiment, she encoun- 
tered a nasty chopping sea from the Custom House Stairs to 
Ricasoli, caused by the wind blowing straight up the harbor. A 
little uneasiness, not to say anything about the wetting, was felt 
for a few moments as to our prospects of landing. Fortunately 
the officers had prepared a floating platform, which rendered 
access to the causeway not so difficult as it would have been 
without such assistance. The wharf was illuminated by torches 
held by soldiers of the 71st. They lined the way to the entrance 
to the barracks. The ascent was steep, and the good-humored 
remark that no one who lived in such a place ought to ask peo- 
ple to dinner, was at one time generally assented to. A very 
agreeable evening, however, caused small initial impediments to 
be forgotten. 

April TO. — Torpedo "experiments," were made in presence 
of the Prince, who was posted not very far from the site of one 
of old Draguts' batteries during the famous siege. Well ! Given 
the increase of power on the part of the attack derived from 
steam iron-clads and rifled ordnance since Draguts' time, and the 
corresponding development of the power of resistance by these 
same agencies, plus torpedoes, it might be inferred from what 
we saw to-day that things were very much as they were. When 
the torpedo exploded under an object which was so good as to 
allow itself to be taken expressly to be blown up, the torpedo 



LAST DAY IN MALTA. 477 

blew the object up and killed many fishes as well — a new 
source of supply to a beleaguered garrison. I do not think his 
Royal Highness was quite satisfied with what he saw, or consider- 
ed that torpedoes so far, could defend Massamuschett Landing 
or the Lazaretto. Let us hope " non tali auxilio, nee defensori- 
bus istis, Malta eget." This was our last day in Malta. There 
were many things to be done, visits to be paid, and small cere- 
monies and duties attended to. The people were busy taking 
down faded garlands, triumphal arches and Venetian masts, be- 
fore the Prince went off to the Serapis in the evening. There a 
banquet was given on board to the Governor, and to the chief 
people of Malta, British and Maltese, which was of a very agree- 
able character, although not destitute of the formal attributes of 
a State dinner. 

April II. — One more stage on the journey home. At 8 
A. M. the Serapis left her moorings, off Custom House Stairs, 
and steamed out to sea on her way to Gibraltar. The Prince's 
flag was duly honored by a general salute from ships and forts. 
The thermometer — 60*^ — warned us that we were running west- 
wards, and away from the sun. As the ship ran along shore, 
one of the Scotch servants was much excited on being shown 
" St. Paul's Bay." " Hech ! " he exclaimed, " I'd sooner ha' 
seen yon than a' the Peeramids in Egypt and a' the Rajaws in 
Ingey ! " And why not 1 

April 12. — Latitude 37° 44' n., longitude 8^ 34' e. Run 264 
miles. Cape de Gatt 526 miles, Gibraltar 684 miles at noon. 
In the midst of a conversation on a most interesting subject, 
the Prince's attention was caught by the appearance of one of 
the natives attending the elephants, who was holding his hand 
to his mouth, from which there was a trickle of blood. He went 
to the man, followed by Sir, D. Probyn, and was told that the 
mahout had been struck by a sailor because he desired him not 
to tease the elephant. The Prince at once ordered an inquiry to 
be made. The culprit was an A.B. of good standing. Captain 
Glyn, who well knew the risk of " setting up Jack's back " 
against the natives and the animals on board, did not, neverthe- 



4/8 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

less, hesitate to order condign punishment. I think it was a 
pretty " bed of justice," and that had it been seen in India it 
might have been worth a battalion to us at least. 

April 13. — A strong East wind — squally ; all square canvas 
set, the Osborne spreading all her wings, and the Raleigh very 
fine to look at under her great tiers of sail. There was so much 
play about the ship that fiddles were put on the dinner-table, 
perhaps their third appearance since the Prince left Brindisi. It 
is cold at night, and the gentlemen who swing on board at ease 
feel very glad of an extra blanket in their cots. 

April 14. — The wind is said to be changeable always ; but 
to-day it really seemed to blow in different directions at the 
same time. There Were dozens of vessels, of all sizes and 
nationalities, bowling along on their respective courses, as if 
each had a witch to fill her sails. At noon we were in latitude 
36° 37' N., longitude 2° 20' w. " I beg your pardon, Sir," said 
an old salt to me, " but its somewhere just about here we seed 
the sea-serpent in 1870." "Who were 'we'.?" "Well, Sir, 
asking your pardon, it was aboard the Palace we was. But the 
captain wished us to say nothing about it, for, says he, if it gets 
out that we say we seed the sea-serpent, there's not a man will 
ever be employed again ! But we seed it sure enough. The 
whole watch, about a cable's length off, and just as big as our. 
funnel." And so I believe he did. 

April 15. — "The Rock" was in sight at dawn. It is a 
subject of much mirth to our young gentlemen — and, indeed, to 
some of the old ones — that the Spanish Governor of Algesiras, 
opposite, designates himself " Commandant" (or Governor) "of 
Gibraltar, in temporary occupation of the English ; " but it is 
only of late years that there disappeared from the superscription 
of English coins a title not less ludicrous. The sense of posses- 
sion, however it may be vilipended by philosophers and advanced 
thinkers, is unquestionably agreeable. A man is proud of 
belonging to an Empire of great extent, and assumes that he is 
pro tanto ^nd per iantum better than the native of a country 
which has not made acquisitions. I once heard a great states- 



GIBRALTAR. 479 

man make what he thought to be a complete answer to a 
poHtician', who was denouncing a certain course of action as 
tending to reduce England to the position of Holland, by ex- 
claiming, "And I have yet to learn that a Dutchman is less 
happy or prosperous to-day than his forefather was when the 
Seven Provinces were dominant at sea, and when they were 
distracted by efforts to maintain their colonial possessions ! " 
The great statesman never felt the throb — foolish, it may be, 
but capable of driving a good deal of heroic blood through one's 
veins — which the heart gives when the sight of the flag awakens 
the sentiment of the proud King. 

" Ich heisse 
Der reichste Mann in der getauften Welt : 
Die Sonne geht in meinem Staat nicht unter." 

And that was what one felt in travelling back from the East, 
so that the irruption of the red flag with the white crescent on it 
at Suez seemed almost anomalous and improper. But what do 
the Spaniards think of our Union Jack fluttering above Calpe ? 
Probably very much as the Moor over yonder, who has not only 
to sigh over the fair land he has lost, but to submit to the flag 
of his despoiler on his own shore. Strong wind, sea high. The 
Moorish coast, rocky, bold,' and barren, visible through the port, 
and the white houses over Tetuan very distinct. At 7.45 a. m. 
heard the ships and batteries saluting. 

The Serapis moored alongside the coal-quay in less than half 
an hour afterwards. Scarcely had she made fast before the 
Duke of Connaught was seen coming down the quay. The 
Duke was delighted to find the Prince in such excellent health, 
and said he had never seen him looking so well. There could 
be no doubt of the good dispositions of the inhabitants of the 
Rock, and of their desire to do all they could to render the visit 
of the Prince agreeable. The procession to the Convent was 
made in state, and there was certainly no reason to find fault 
with the reception ; streets crowded, windows and houses filled, 
flowers, garlands, triumphal arches, banners and flags all along 



480 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

the route ; the cheers of the great multitude exceedingly hearty. 
After a levee at the Convent the Prince accompanied the Duke 
of Conn aught to his quarters, where he partook of luncheon. 
There was a disagreeable pull from the Watergate Quay to the 
Serapis^ in order to dress for a banquet at the Cnn\ent at 8 
o'clock. 

The news of the death of the Maharaja of Puttiala (which 
came to-day) was heard with sincere regret by the Prince, to 
whom the young Maharaja had exhibited great friendship and 
regard. 

April 16. — When Bishop Sandford had ended service, Sir J. 
D, Hay appeared on board with a deputation from the Emperor 
of Morocco, Cid Aly Mesfeewy, Envoy Extraordinary, Said 
Abdallah Benabdil, &c. ; and though there was not a diamond 
or emerald among them that I could see, and their attire was 
simple indeed — white turban and bournous, and yellow slippers 
— I am not sure that they were not as noble of presence as any 
Raja or Nawab of them all. 

Easter Mo7iday, April 17. — Gibraltar still en fete. Crowds 
in the streets. Nothing to be seen but flowers and garlands, 
flags, lanterns. The foundation-stone of the New Market-place 
was laid by the Prince with Masonic ceremonies, the proceedings 
being opened by a long and somewhat lugubrious address, of a 
religious character, by a Dissenting minister. The Masonic 
manifestations which had been suppressed at Malta found large 
expansion here. The engineers complain that the defences of 
Gibraltar suffer exceedingly from constant changes at home. 
Plates and guns are subjected to continual alterations. As the 
size of the cannon is increased, the emplacements become obso- 
lete. Casemates intended for 18-ton guns are quite useless for 
35-ton guns. The emplacement for the new 35-ton gun to be 
mounted at the Alexandra battery, on the end of the New Mole, 
was laid by the Prince in the afternoon. The garrison, consisting 
of five regiments, paraded at 3.30 P. m. on the ground outside 
the Watergate. The Spanish Governor of Algesiras came over 
to the Review to pay his respects to the Prince, and to have a 



FESTIVITIES. 481 

look at the outside of his temporally abstracted fortress, accom- 
panied by a staff of Spanish officers and by a small escort of 
serviceable, if not neat-looking Lancers. The Prince entertain- 
ed the Duke of Connaught and a large party on board. Covers 
were laid for fifty-five. The company went on shore to witness 
the fireworks, and the lighting up of the streets and of the 
Rock. The illuminations on shore, to our practised eyes, were 
not quite overpowering, but the marine works of that sort, and 
the pyrotechnic effects of the fleet were admirable. 

April 18. — Excursion to the cork-wood of Rondo ; a very 
agreeable day, in spite of showers. I was told that there were 
two hundred police and soldiery posted in various spots round 
the scene of the picnic, out of sight. The Prince dined in the 
evening with the Rifle Brigade, and went off to the theatre after- 
wards. It blew great guns. The guests of the Rifle Brigade, 
and those who attended the theatre, had to contend with great 
difficulty respecting transport — the rain fell in torrents — the sup- 
ply of vehicles in Gibraltar is not unlimited. Combine these 
conditions and imagine the result. 

April 19 — The storm passed away. The 4th (King's Own) 
had the honor of receiving his Royal Highness at lunch. There 
were soldiers' games at the North Front afterwards, and the 
struggle between the Royal Artillery team and the sailors (of the 
Raleigh principally, I think) in the " Tug of War " evoked the 
finest feelings of the services; and when the sturdy gunners, 
who had been at work mounting ordnance, parbuckling, heaving 
and hauling carriages and shot for months, pulled the tars over, 
it was too much for one ancient mariner ; he blew his nose sus- 
piciously, and would not speak to any one for ten minutes. From 
the games the Prince returned to change his uniform, and the 23d 
Royal Welsh Fusiliers entertained him at dinner in their mess- 
room. The festive proceedings which were arranged to celebrate 
the Royal visit were wound up by a grand ball. As they were to 
start for Cadiz early next morning, the Prince a!nd the Duke of 
Connaught went on board the Osborne from the ^^all-room. 
21 31 




THE ONLY BULL-FIGHT THE PRINCE SAW IN SPAIN. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Departure from Gibraltar — Arrival at Cadiz — Seville — Cordova — Madrid — 
Toledo — The Escurial — The Palace Tapestry — The Armory — The Re- 
view — Festivities — Arrival at Lisbon — Public Entry — Belem Castle — 
Royal Entertainments — Excursion to Cintra — Palace of Ajuda — Depart- 
ure from Lisbon — Serapis Dinner to the Prince — Land in Sight — " The 
E7tcha7itress is coming " — Home at Last ! 

April 20. — At 7 a. m. the Osborne was running along the 
coast on her way towards Cadiz. It was understood there should 
be no saluting, but the Devastation^ Swiftsure, Raleigh, and Re- 
search manned yards and fired, the batteries joined, and in a few 
seconds Gibraltar was completely hidden in a cloud of thick, 
white smoke. The weather was cloudy, and rain fell at intervals. 
Passing near the Pearl Rock we could not but wonder at the 
neglect of measures to mark a spot made so unpleasantly familiar 
by our naval^ misfortunes. At 12.30 the Osborne was running 
into Cadiz. The Prince landed incognito at 3.45 p. m. Special 
trains, however, are not easily "sm;iggled through," and there 
483 - 



ARRIVAL AT SEVILLE. 483 

were crowds at all the stations up to Seville, where their Royal 
Highnesses arrived at 6.45 p. m. in time for dinner. The Count 
of Mirasol and two high officers of the Court were waiting on the 
part of the King to receive them. 

Although there were no public functions at Seville, no. part 
of the tour was more thoroughly enjoyed than the entertainments 
provided for the Royal travellers. The Princes attended the 
races, which had been postponed till their arrival ; went to the 
theatres ; visited the famous Tobacco Manufactory ; picnicked 
in the gardens of the Monpensier Palace ; saw the "fun " of the 
Fair, which was then at its height ; inspected at their ease Cathe- 
dral, churches, museum. Alcazar, la Caridad, picture-galleries. 
Their presence gave eclat to many assemblages, and the splendor 
of the equipages placed at their disposal necessarily attracted 
attention. However, the Sevillanos, on the whole, were not de- 
monstrative. It was delightful to be in a city where there were 
neither reviews, receptions, state banquets, illuminations, nor 
fireworks, and where without any " wild shrieks " there was the 
full enjoyment of liberty. Perhaps it was just as well that there 
was a rigid resolve to resist the blandishments of the quaint 
posters on the walls, giving the names of the performers who 
were to operate on " los toros " in the ring, and representing 
tremendous bulls on the rampage. 

The Royal party left Seville on the 25th of April, and at 5.15 
p. M. the special train reached Cordova. The Princes drove in 
carriages provided for them by the courtesy of gentlemen of the 
city, to the Cathedral. The people assembled at the station and 
at the entrance to the building were scarcely remarkable for 
courtesy or good manners. The canons and higher dignitaries 
received the Princes, and led the illustrious visitors through every 
part of the vast edifice. The choir, the mosque, the treasury, 
the richly embroidered robes and plate were inspected, and 
finally their Royal Highnesses ascended the tower, from which 
there is a fine view of the city. - At 9 p. m. the Royal party con- 
tinued their journey, travelling all night in the Royal carriages. 
The train arrived at 8 a. m. (the 26th of April) at Aranjuez, where 



484 THE PRINCE OF wales' TOUR. 

Mr. Layard, the members of the British Legation, and a deputa- 
tion of Spanish officers were v/aiting to welcome them. In two 
hours more they reached Madrid. A guard of honor, with the 
band of an Engineer regiment, was drawn up at the station. The 
young King exchanged most cordial greetings with the Prince of 
Wales and the Duke of Conn aught. 

The crowd of English and strangers inside the station cheered 
loudly. The state carriage left the station, the Prince sitting on 
the right of King Alfonso, the Duke of Connaught and Prince 
Louis of Battenberg opposite. The Prince of Wales was dressed 
in the uniform of Field-Marshal, and the Duke of Connaught in 
that of the 7th Hussars. Other carriages followed with the 
suite. The full-dress liveries were very handsome, and the 
equipages well appointed. The Royal party drove to the Palace 
through a mile and a half of crowded streets. The cortege was 
preceded by a body of the Royal Guard on horseback. The 
people in the streets were very respectful, and took off their 
hats, but there generally was no cheering except from foreigners. 
It is not the habit in Spain to utter loud cries, unless under ex- 
citement of a political character or of warlike demonstration. 

The reception at the Palace was very stately ; the approaches 
and staircases lined by halberdiers in effective uniforms, cocked- 
hats, broad lapelled coatees of blue with white facings, white 
knee-breeches, and long black gaiters. Upon reaching the 
grand apartments. King Alfonso presented the Royal Princes to 
the Princess of the Asturias, ladies of the Court, the grandees, 
and officials. The English Princes then presented the members 
of their suites to his Majesty, who gave them a most gracious 
reception. In the afternoon the King ^nd the Princes visited 
the Museum, rich in masterpieces of Murillo, Velasquez, Titian, 
and in noble specimens of the Flemish and Dutch schools. 
There are some French paintings, but no examples of English 
masters in the galleries. Here the Royal party spent a consider- 
able time. 

There were great crowds along the Prado and Buen Retiro 
in the afternoon to see the Prince. Madrid wears an animated 



ARRIVAL IN TOLEDO. 485 

aspect. The list of festivities is full, and promises to tax the 
energies of those who will have to take part in them. The 
Prince of Wales declined an invitation to a bull-fight, which it 
was proposed to give on a large scale in his honor. There was 
a banquet at the Palace, remarkable for the display of plate and 
for great splendor of appointments, after which the King and 
Princes went to the Theatre. The opera was // Trovatore. 

April 26. — The King accompanied the Prince of Wales and 
Duke of Connaught to Toledo. The Royal party left Madrid 
by special train at 9 o'clock, breakfasted en route, and reached 
Toledo in two hours. At the station a guard of honor was 
drawn up, and breaks drawn by magnificent mules were waiting 
to convey them through the quaint old city. The visitors first 
examined the Hospital built in 1504, which has been justly called 
"one of the architectural gems of the world." 

Thence they proceeded to the great manufactory where To- 
ledo blades, as well as arms of all kinds — the machinery moved 
by the waters of the Tagus — are still made to perfection. 

The Churches, surrounded by the mass of the mediaeval city 
— the Bridge, the Market-place, and the Cathedral, rival of Se- 
ville's glory, next challenged attention. The clergy of the 
Cathedral displayed the wondrous silver, some of which dates 
from the tenth century, miracles of art, when art was at its best, 
and opened shrines and reliquaries, seldom seen or heard of, 
which have escaped heathen and Christian pillage, for the Prince's 
inspection. 

After an interesting drive through the old and tortuous 
streets they went to the Alcazar, converted by King Alfonso into 
a military college, where 400 students are educated on the Wool- 
wich system. 

The special train arrived at Madrid soon after 5 p. m. The 
Princes dined with the King, and afterwards went to the Opera, 
where A'lda was performed to a house crowded from floor to 
ceiling with all Madrid could show of rank and beauty — and both 
still are left to her. 

After the Opera, the King and the Princes went to the ball 



486 THE PRINCE OF WALES* TOUR. 

given by the " Dukes " Fernan Nunez (/. ^., the Duke and the 
Duchess) in honor of the occasion. The ball was in all respects 
a great display of the. luxury, refinement, splendor, and wealth, 
of the noblesse of Spain, and remarkable for the grace and beauty 
of many of the ladies, whose presence adorned the magnificent 
salons. 

April 2"]. — In the forenoon the Prince paid another visit to 
the Picture Gallery, where he remained until it was time to re- 
turn to the Palace to prepare for the grand review. The Duke 
of Connaught visited the Armory and the interesting and beauti- 
fully kept Museum of Artillery. The latter is especially rich in 
armor of the time and of the person of Philip II. and of Charles 
v., trophies from the battle of Lepanto, a suit of mail of Colum- 
bus, swords of Cortes, of El Gran Capitan, and many beautiful 
and curious arms. Three stands of English colors were among 
the trophies on the walls. The sword which Francis I. surren- 
dered at Pavia was carried off by the French in 1808, and is 
represented by a fac-simile. 

At 2 o'clock all Madrid was in the streets or in the windows 
of the houses. It was a fete day. Shops were shut and all 
business suspended. In the capital of a nation which has just 
escaped from the horrors of civil war after hard-fought battles, 
in which for weary months Spaniards stood face to face with 
Spaniards, where wounded soldiers hobbling about the streets, 
war medals and ribands on many breasts, attest the fact, it was 
strange to observe the general gayety and abandon of the crowd. 
The people w^ere packed as closely as they could stand long be- 
fore the time fixed, quiet and orderly, waiting patiently for the 
march-past. The troops were drawn up on the Prado under a 
pure blue sky and warm sun worthy of India. 

At 2 o'clock King Alfonso, in the uniform of a Spanish Gen- 
eral, the Prince in Field-Marshal's uniform, the Duke of Con- 
naught in the uniform of the 7th Hussars, preceded by cavalry, 
attended by the Generals Caballos, Prima del Rivera, Echagues, 
San Roman, Cotoner, Makenna, Zapatero, Rinzdana, Azcarraga, 
Beaumont, Ping, Salavera, and followed by a brilliant Etat- 



GRAND REVIEW. 4^? 

Major ^ rode down the Prado, which was lined by the cavalry, 
infantry, and artillery assembled for the Royal inspection. 

The review was the most remarkable military display which 
the young King has seen since the day he entered Madrid. The 
force consisted of four regiments of cavalry, four battalions of 
engineers, one battalion of civil guard, fourteen battalions of the 
line, one of artillery, and eighty guns. The first division (Var- 
gos) extended from the Obelisk de la Castalana to the Cibeles 
Fountains. The second (Terreros) from the Botanic Gardens 
to the Gate Atocha. The cavalry, under the Count de Combres 
Altas, from the Gate of Atocha to the Canal j the artillery (Gen- 
eral Prat) from the Alcala Gate to the Prado. The second 
division was formed of the 3d regiment of Grenadiers, the regi- 
ment of Grenada, and the battalion of the Cagadores of Manilla. 
The cavalry consisted of the regiments "Del Rey, Reina," 
" Pavia," and " Alfonso the Twelfth." The wheeled artillery 
was formed in column from the Porte of Alcala, with mountain 
artillery between the " Obelisk of the 2d May " and the Museum. 
The defile was a very striking spectacle. No one who has de- 
rived his impressions of Spain from the Stock Exchange, Cuban 
insurrections, Carlist wars, or recent European history, can realize 
the grandeur that clings to the old Catholic Monarchy, and the 
strength of the military spirit which so often placed Spain at the 
mercy of ?i prominciamiento . In all that refers to the ordering of 
a military show the review was perfect. First came the Pala- 
freneros of the Palace and the Royal Guard, the escort of tbe 
generals, the Regiments of Manila, Ciudad Rodrigo, and Cata- 
lano, of the first division. The Chasseur battalions were well 
received. After the infantry next came Engineers and Telegraph 
Companies; then ttie mountain batteries (pieces of four), one 
mule carrying the wheels, one the limber, one the carriage, and 
one the caisson or tumbril, 36 pieces in all ; then the Chasseurs j 
after which the Guardia CiviJ;^ 1400 strong, in picturesque uni- 
form — cocked hats wdth white borders, blue coats with red 
breasts, white pantaloons, black gaiters, whose appearance could 
not be easily surpassed. Next came the light and heavy artillery, 



488 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

Krupp guns, drawn by very fine mules, a total force of 80 pieces. 
After these, regiments of cavalry. The Princess of the Asturias 
sat in the balcony of a house near the Ministry of War. 

It was near 5 o'clock before the review was over, and the 
King and the Princes returned to the Palace at 8. After the 
review the Prince visited the Countess of Montijo. There was 
another State banquet at the Palace at night. 

April 2%. — At 11.20 the King with his Royal guests, set out 
in travelling dress for the Escurial. Special train, of course. 
It was very cold ; the snow-covered ranges of the Guadamarara 
gave an Alpine aspect to the plains, beyond which rose a line of 
hills, whereon the great bulk of the Escurial, resembling a trun- 
cated pyramid, could be presently discerned. Patrols of civil 
guard were placed at intervals along the line. There was no 
crowd at the stations, nor, for the matter of that, did there seem 
any considerable population. Villa Alba, which we passed at 
12.20, being the most extensive hamlet within sight. The coun- 
try put one in mind of the least cultivated parts of Kerry. 
Fields, surrounded by stone walls, broke the monotony of rocky 
expanses, sometimes covered with scrub-wood, occasionally quite 
destitute even of so much verdure. The aspect of the country 
so black as to give the impression of a peat-moor, over which 
the roads ran like white ribands, caused us to wonder that any 
one could have selected such a site for a palace, until we thought 
of the character of the man who had reared the Escurial. Cer- 
tainly he could have offered the excuse that there was plenty of 
stone close at hand for the building. Within half a mile of the 
Palace there are some poplars, white houses, red tiled roofs, and 
a red church, with two steeples. At 12.35 ^^'^^ t^^^" stopped at 
the end of the journey. A crowd of 600 or 700 people and the 
authorities were waiting ; outside the station were Royal car- 
riages, remarkable for the beauty of the ancient trappings. The 
harness of the mules was made of silk, and the housings and 
mountings very remarkable and curious. Outside the Palace a 
guard of honor was mounted by cadets and pupils of the Military 
School founded on the principle of the Theresianum at Vienna. 



THE ESCURIAL. 489 

King Alfonso acted as guide through the immense pile — a palace, 
a cemetery, a library, and a museum — where the sombre soul of 
Philip II. seems to brood in monumental granite. Little more 
than 300 years old, the Escurial appears to be as far removed 
from our times as the Parthenon or the Serapeum, yet the massive 
blocks of stone are so fresh that they are not incongruous with 
the marble slabs which stone-masons are fitting to-day to the 
sides of a new cemetery destined for the Princes and Princesses 
of Spain who have not reigned. 

It was so cold in the gloomy halls and vast corridors that the 
King requested all to keep on their hats. Although La Hous- 
saye destroyed or carried away enormous quantities of relics, 
plate, and objects of art, the Escurial is still a wonderful mine of 
most valuable and interesting books, manuscripts, and tapestry. 
The Royal party inspected the chapel in which, as all the world 
is erroneously told, Philip heard the news of the battle of Lepanto 
without emotion ; the place in which he was told of his great 
reverse ; the crypt in which he lingered and died ; the dread, 
mausoleum in which are ranged sarcophagi of the Kings of 
Spain, beginning with that of Charles V., Emperor and King, 
and ending with that of Ferdinand VII. There is one prepared 
wherein may repose the remains of the crownless Queen now in 
exile. Beneath it is a marble tomb, which the young King 
pointed out to the Prince of Wales, saying, "There is where I 
shall lie one day." 

With the exception of a short interval for refreshment in one 
of the rooms of the Palace, the day was spent wandering over 
the Escurial. At lunch the King spoke with much feeling of his 
English comrades, of his instructors, and of his friends at Sand- 
hurst. " I might be tried as a deserter if they could catch me," 
said he, " for I went away on leave of absence, but I came on to 
Madrid, and I never returned to duty." At 4.30 p. m. the 
special train started amid loud cheers from the young cadets 
and students, and in an hour reached Madrid. Here the train 
to the north was waiting, and the King and Prince bade good- 
by to the Duke of Connaught, who, accompanied by Lord 



490 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Gordon Lennox and Mr. FitzGerald, started for Paris en route 
for England. 

• When the Prince returned to the Palace, he found the grand 
corridor which surrounds the inner court, hung with the most 
magnificent tapestries — Italian, Flemish, French, and Spanish — 
which had been taken out of their lurking-places by order of the 
King, and suspended over the doors, on one side; and over the 
windows on the other, that the Prince might see them. This 
corridor is rectangular, and runs over the corridors on the ground- 
floor ; and each side is probably sixty yards long. On one side 
are the entrances to the staircases and suites of apartments. 
The other sides "give" on the court; and as the winters are 
cold, and the springs not alwa3''s genial there, it has been found 
desirable to place glass doors and windows on the outer side, so 
as to form a protected walk. These marble alleys are guarded 
by halberdiers in picturesque uniform, with an air of intense 
respectability. They have something to guard. From end to 
end each of these four sides was lined with pieces of tapestry, 
some of vast size — 30 or 40 feet long by 20 high — tacked side 
by side as close as they can hang. There are at least eighty 
pieces up at present. Some of these are said by competent 
judges to be worth thousands of pounds sterling. When these 
pieces were put up it was naturally supposed that they were all 
the Palace could boast of, except such as were fixed in the 
Royal apartments. But there are, it seems, many more. '' How 
many ? Twice ? " " Yes ; many more than twice." " Ten 
times as many ? " " Oh dear, yes ! " " What ! more than 800 
pieces of tapestry ? " " Oh, yes ! There are 2500 pieces, many 
finer than these ! " Cosas de Espaiia, indeed. But very mag- 
nificent. There are four large pieces, for example, before my 
room, each of which is a large page from the history of Alexan- 
der ; but there were once six. The two missing pieces have been 
discovered in Vienna, but no one knows how they found their 
way there. When the figure of St. Anthony was cut out of the 
glorious Murillo in the Cathedral at Seville, and was traced to 
New York, one might guess at the nature of the motive-power 



THE PALACE LIBRARY. 49 1 

which led to the robbery ; but it is not so easy to imagine how 
two great pieces of tapestry could have been taken out of the 
Royal Palace at Madrid and conveyed to Vienna, at a time long 
subsequent to any connection between Austria and Spain, except 
that which was thus so strangely established. 

In the evening the King and the Prince honored Mr. Layard 
with their presence at dinner, and at a ball afterwards at the 
British Legation. Next day all Madrid talked with wonder of 
the presence of a King of Spain at the house of a foreign Min- 
ister. 

April 29. — This Palace contains an exquisite chapel, to 
which the members of the Royal Family and Household repair 
every morning for mass. There is also a library of vast extent 
and value, but in considerable disorder as yet, for the librarian, 
a most obliging and learned gentleman, recently appointed, has 
only commenced his work of arrangement and classification. A 
glance at the old catalogue, however, reveals the existence of 
many treasures, and some " Hours " belonging to Charles V., 
Philip I. and II., &c., are most exquisite specimens of missal 
illumination and binding. I suspect there are great discoveries 
to be made in the sea of shelves piled up room after room in 
the lower story of the huge edifice. Then the Armory is another 
joy for ever, such as Sir Samuel Meyrick or good Mr. Planche 
would have exceedingly rejoiced to see. Ford scarcely does 
justice to the rare and charming things which are enshrined in 
the Armeria and other national establishments, but in matters of art 
he is quite excellent. The Prince permitted nothing to escape, 
and in the young King he has an indefatigable and enthusiastic 
cicerone. An old courtier of Phillip II. would have died, or 
fainted at the least, could he have met the King of Spain walk- 
ing about the stables in a shooting-jacket and "pot hat," with a 
gentleman in similar costume, who was heir to the Crown of 
England. The Royal coach-houses are filled with vehicles, which 
excel those of Vienna in cumbrous magnificence ; and there may 
be among them the carriage in which " Jack and Tom " set out 
from the Earl of Bristol's to the first interview with the Infanta 



492 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

in that romantic expedition of " Baby Charles." The jewels 
which the thrifty James did not scruple to send to Madrid, valued 
then at 150,000/., seem to have "left not a rack behind." Poor 
Infanta ! Hapless Charles ! There is something very touching 
in the simple remark of the Princess, " Had he loved me he 
would not have quitted me ! " The results of a happier ending 
to that wooing may well exercise the fancy. After a day of com- 
parative quiet, and some hours spent in examining objects of 
interest, the Prince of Wales drove out and paid visits to Mar- 
shal Serrano, the Duke and Duchess of Sesto (rejoicing rather 
in the title and name of Marquess and Marchioness of Alcan- 
iges), Senor Canovas del Castillo, and the Duchess of Montijo. 
He also attended a sitting of the Chamber of Deputies (Cortes), 
where a solemn debate on some Railway Bill was proceeding 
with great dignity, and had an opportunity of seeing the most 
eminent orators and members, for the house happened to be very 
full. After dinner at the Palace, the King and Prince went to 
the Theatre, where they saw the only " bull-fight " which it was 
permitted his Royal Highness to witness in Spain. "Pepe 
Hillo " was but a mockery and a mimicry. The bull was a 
sham, and the horses were not real ; but, what was best of all to 
see, there was a seguidilla charmingly danced by a beautiful and 
graceful girl, who received well-deserved compliments. Then 
came a ball of a very stately kind, given by los duques de Bailen 
(the Duke and Duchess of Bailen), at their fine Palace of Portu- 
galete, vliere the King and his Royal visitor were received by all 
that was distinguished in Madrid, the last festivity in honor of 
the Prince, which brought his pleasant sojourn to a fitting con- 
clusion. 

April '2^0. — A forenoon of adieux, and reception of friend- 
ly visits. 

At 3 P. M. the Prince left the Palace for the Railway Station, 
where a special train was in readiness, for Lisbon. King Alfonso 
drove the Prince to the Station in an open carriage, with postil- 
lions in uniforms of blue and crimson. The suite followed in 
three four-horsed Royal carriages. The King and Prince were 



DEPARTURE FROM MADRID. 493 

met at the station by Mr. and Mrs. Layard, Sefior Elduayen, and 
others. All the travellers were in plain clothes. There was no 
crowd at the station. The Civil Governor of Madrid, the Duke 
of Sesto, and other Spanish nobles accompanied the Royal 
party. The Prince shook hands warmly with the King, the Duke- 
of Sesto, Mrs. Layard, General Velasco, Seiior Elduayen, Sir 
John Walsham, and others, bowing repeatedly to those on the 
platform as the train moved off. " The Prince carries away a 
most pleasant remembrance of his visit." Among the many of 
the King's suite who did so much to make the English strangers 
comfortable, the Marquis of Alcaniges and the Count Morphy 
must not be forgotten. Mr. Layard came on to Aranjuez, where 
he took leave of his Royal Highness. The train arrived at Man- 
zanares La Mancha at 7.15 p.m., and, after a short halt, went 
very smoothly all night. 

May I. — Passing Badajos station at 6.30 a.m. some were 
aware of band playing, of a crowd, and of a detachment of the 
omnipresent Civil Guard drawn up on the platform. Nothing 
was to be seen of the famous fortification until the train had 
passed out of the station, when, looking back, one could make 
out part of the fort, with a flag-staff above it, the houses of the 
town below, and a church steeple, beyond which lay a hill, which 
appeared as if it were powdered with snow. This resolved itself 
subsequently into the town of Elvas, where we saw a crowd of 
burly, apathetic-looking country people, their heads bound round 
with red kerchiefs, as if they had just got out of bed, and appar- 
ently waiting on business, not curiosity ; differing very much in 
appearance from the smaller, more excitable-looking Spaniards, 
and, indeed, not very well-favored or intelligent looking. At 
1 1. 10 A. M. crossed the Tagus, and entered upon scenery of much 
softer and more interesting character than that of the country 
outside Madrid. The British Minister and the Portuguese Min- 
ister, the Viscount de Sagres, and officers, sent to welcome the 
Prince, were waiting at Entroncamento, where there was lunch, 
and a halt for half an hour. At 3.30 p. m. the train arrived at 
Lisbon. King Louis, who wore the uniform of a Portuguese 



494 '^HE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

Admiral, with the Grand Cross of the Tower and Sword, and 
the Titular King Don Fernando in the uniform of a Portuguese 
Field-Marshal General, with the Grand Cross of the three Portu- 
guese Orders, were waiting to receive his Royal Highness, and 
gave him a very warm greeting. The ministers, the principal 
authorities, the British admirals, Seymour and Phillimore, and 
the officers of the fleet in the Tagus, the diplomatic and consular 
officers, and a large assemblage of ladies and gentlemen, who 
were admitted on the platform, also welcomed the Prince. In 
the Railway Station some 500 ladies were seated on rows of 
chairs, and rose to wave their handkerchiefs. The windows were 
crowded. The Band of the 5th Cagadores played " God save 
the Queen." The Portuguese aides-de-camp and officers were 
presented to the Prince — Senhor Fontes, President of the Council, 
the Minister of Finance, Senhor Andrade Corso, Minister of 
Foreign Affairs, Senhor Serpa Pimentel, Senhor Cardoso 
Avelino, Minister of Public Works, &c., &c. The King and 
Prince drove slowly through the streets, which were lined with 
all the available troops. 

There was no display of flags in the city. There was no 
triumphal arch. There was not a " welcome," or a single ban- 
ner. There was not, as far as I heard, what would pass muster 
in the smallest English village for a cheer. Nevertheless, the 
reception was most gratifying." Standing closely packed for at 
least two miles in the streets, which they crowded so as just to 
leave room for the carriages to pass, the good people of Lisbon, 
and of the country round, waited in the hot sun till the Prince 
arrived, and, as he passed along almost within a hand's-breadth 
of the front ranks of men and women, the former uncovered their 
heads, and the latter waved their handkerchiefs, or showed, by 
their best smiles, how glad they were to see the Heir of the 
Throne of Great Britain and Ireland. The ships of the squad- 
ron in the Tagus saluted with excellent effect as soon as the 
cortege came in sight. Arrived at the Palace of Ajuda, the 
King presented his ministers and officers to the Prince, who in 
turn presented his suite to their Majesties. His Majesty looks 



THE PALACE OF BELEM. 495 

younger than he is (thirty-eight), and, like many other members 
of the illustrious House of Coburg, has light hair and blue eyes. 
He takes an active part in the work of Government, has seen 
much of the world, is a good naturalist (versed especially in 
ornithology), a friend of the arts, favorable to the emancipation 
of commerce from all imposts which are not absolutely needed for 
revenue, and anxious to abolish as far as possible all traces of the 
protective policy which was so much in vogue in Portugal — as in 
other places — a short time ago. The Prince Royal and the In- 
fante Dom Affonso are nice-looking lads, with a strong resem- 
blance to their Royal mother, who is as like to King Victor Em- 
manuel as a comely lady with a profusion of blonde crepk hair 
and of refined presence can be to El Re Galantuomo. Prince 
Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg, a man of taste and letters, quite 
gained the hearts of all the visitors by his extraordinary pleasant- 
ness, kindness and bonhomie ; and they all agree that a more 
gracious, agreeable, and witty Prince was not met with on their 
travels than the very tall gentlemen who reminds one a little of 
Napoleon IH., and a little of Don Quixote — as drawn by Dord 
— and who is able to talk in nearly if not all the languages of 
Europe. The party proceeded to the Palace of Belem, where 
the Prince and his suite were quartered comfortably, and spent 
the evening quietly. 

May 2. — There came, this forenoon, a deputation of British 
subjects to Belem with an address, which the Prince received. 
The King arrived after lunch, and had a long conversation with 
members of the suite. 

The concert at the San Carlos in honor of the Prince gave a 
good opportunity to the Portuguese ladies of showing their toi- 
lettes, diamonds, fine hair and eyes to advantage, of which they 
availed themselves very generally. The aspect of the theatre was 
bright and beautiful ; and when the Kings, de facto and Titular, 
the Queen, the Princes, the Prince of Wales, the ministers and 
officers of the Court, and noblemen and gentlemen were seated in 
the Royal box, which occupies the centre of the grand tier, the 
spectacle presented by the audience flashing with brilliants and 



496 THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

blazing in State uniforms, lace and orders, was as fair a gala 
theatre as could well be witnessed. 

May 3. — The Prince paid a visit to the Convent of Bon 
Secours (Bom Soccorso), near at hand, this forenoon, and was 
much gratified by the arrangements. He was conducted over 
the rooms and gardens by Father Smyth, and was entertained 
by the performance of one of the nuns, who sang " Kathleen 
Mavourneen" to a harp accompaniment very tenderly. The 
ladies are principally from Ireland. In the afternoon the Prince 
gave lunch on board the Serapis to Dom Ferdinand and a small 
party, and then he led them on a visit to the iron-clads. After 
dinner at Belem the Prince and the party attended a grand Ball 
given by the King and Queen at the Palace of Ajuda. 

May 4. — An interesting excursion to Cintra — the Prince 
taking one party to the Chateau of King Ferdinand — Lord Suf- 
field. General Probyn, Sir J. Fayrer, Mr. Knollys, Mr. Hall and 
I, being directed to visit the Viscount of Montserrat, an English 
gentleman, who has a pretty country house on the side of a hill 
some distance below the peak on which the Royal castle is 
perched. The villa commands a charming prospect, and is sur- 
rounded by well laid-out grounds ; but the combination of mod- 
ern furniture in the halls and rooms of Saracenic architecture is 
scarcely pleasing. The Prince drove off at 10.30 a. m. The 
second party at 11. 15 a. m. — the carriages drawn by mules. It is 
a pleasant drive of 28 kilometres ; but at some distance, the road 
was broken, and our party had to leave the carriages and walk. 
The visitors were delighted, and after spending a very^ agreeable 
day, returned to Belem to dinner at 7 p. m. The city and the 
heights on both sides of the Tagus were illuminated at night, 
there was a grand display of fireworks from the fleets, in which 
the heavens joined with thunder and lightning. 

May 5. — The day was observed as a complete holiday. At 
3 p. M. the King came down the Tagus and visited the Prince 
at Belem Palace. The Royal galley was rowed by eight oars- 
men, and there were two State galleys for the suite. The fleet 
manned yards and saluted as the Royal flags passed. 



LISBON. 497 

The King and the Prince then went on board the galleys off 
the stairs, and landed at the Arsenal, whence they proceeded, 
mounted on horseback, through crowded streets to the Dom 
Pedro Square, to inspect the greatest assemblage of troops 
ever seen in Portugal. The march-past began at 5 p. m., 
and occupied over an hour and a quarter. The artillery 
was very good, comprising upwards of one hundred guns, 
mostly Krupp, and mountain artillery drawn by fine mules. The 
cavalry consisted of a regiment of Lancers, two regiments of 
Hussars (one regiment very good), a brigade of Rifles, and two 
brigades of infantry. The Rifles were smart-looking and sol- 
dierly ; but the ground was most unfavorable for a march-past, 
being only one side of a small square, on which the immense 
crowd closed in, notwithstanding the efforts of the police and 
soldiery. 

At 8.30 p. M. the King, Prince of Wales and a distinguished 
party dined with Admiral Seymour on board the Minotaur. The 
King, in a well-turned speech, proposed the health of Queen 
Victoria. As the toast was being drunk the Black Prince fired 
a salute of twenty-one guns. Then the Prince of Wales proposed 
the health of the King of Portugal, on which the Resistance fired 
a salute of twenty-one guns. When the health of the Prince was 
proposed by the King, the Black Prince saluted. On the Royal 
party leaving the Minotaur^ the ships lighted up, and rockets 
were discharged from the fleet with beautiful effect. 

May 6. — The Portuguese bands are very "brassy," and the 
smart regiment on duty at Belem has one of the most effective ; 
so that what with the playing of the national air of Portugal, the 
fanfares, various other musical exercitations, when important 
visitors come and go, the courtyard and corridors are resonant 
from an early hour in the morning. The Marquis of Souza- 
Holstein was kind enough to take me to see many most interest- 
ing institutions. I was particularly entertained and instructed 
by the treasures in Torre de Tombo, in the vast pile of the old 
convent of St. Bento, which now accommodates the two Houses 
of Parliament and contains the national archives. The collec- 

32 



49^ THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR. 

tion of early charts, especially of Africa and the East Indies, is 
admirable. One of these, of the fifteenth century, gives what 
looks like an exact representation of Lake Nyanza. The records 
of the Inquisition, the banners with the motto, " Exurge Deus," 
&c., the former filling immense rooms, are to be seen in perfect 
order. I read the process of the last act of the Holy Office at 
Coimbra, in which a nun was acciised of having given way to 
Jewish practices, of keeping Friday holy, refusing certain food, 
&c., for which it w^ould seem she suffered death ; but it was ex- 
plained to me very particularly that the officers of the Inquisition 
did not inflict the punishments. The civil power was called on 
to punish a crime, and those condemned of heresy were merely 
handed over by the ecclesiastical tribunal to meet the legal con- 
sequences of their guilt! The National Printing Office and the 
Academy are admirably conducted. 

There was an extraordinary gathering iDf vehicles and people 
at the Races. All Lisbon was out on the Royal Belem course j 
many glad of a holiday to see the Royal personages, some interested 
in a new sport — a very great concourse, who remained all day 
under a hot sun and in a cold wind, quite happy and contented. 
The King conferred decorations on the Prince's suite. 

The banquet at the Palace of Ajuda w^as very brilliant. 
Covers were laid for one hundred guests on tables glittering with 
the plate of the House of Braganza. It was nearly half-past 
nine when the Prince led the Queen to the Banqueting-hall, fol- 
lowed by the King, King Ferdinand, the Infante, Ministers of 
State, Admirals, Foreign Ministers, and Corps Diplomatique, 
One of the most powerful bands ever heard was stationed in the 
gallery at one end of the hall, and effectually obviated any ne- 
cessity on the part of the company to engage in conversation.- 
The King, after a felicitous allusion to the Prince's presence, 
said there were three healths he could not separate — " Dieu 
garde la Reine^ voire gracieuse et auguste mere, quHl protege le 
Prince de Galles, et veille sur la nation anglaise" * The Prince 

* See Appendix. 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 499 

of Wales proposed the health of the King, and expressed the 
pleasure he felt at his visit to Portugal. 

May 7. — The scene on the departure of the Prince from the 
Tagus to-day was a fitting prelude to his welcome home. Nothing 
could be more bright and gay than the appearance of Lisbon — 
the sun lighted up the terraced hills which, springing from the 
water's edge, are lost among the serrated heights of Cintra. 
The population, ever fond of holidays, swarmed along the quays, 
and crowded the pier-heads. The Portuguese Squadron, and the 
Fleet under Rear- Admiral Seymour, were dressed. The vessels 
moored in the river displayed their national flags. 

Having been the guest of the King and lodged so pleasantly 
in his Palace at Belem, it was natural that the Prince should 
desire to receive the members of the Royal family on board his 
own ship under the British flag. There is something of the old 
maritime grandeur of the Portuguese nation to be seen in the 
maintenance of antique-looking galleys of many oars, with the 
rowers dressed in antique liveries, somewhat like those worn by 
our Thames watermen in the early part of the last century, which 
are still used for Royal occasions. A steam-launch — except 
when it is tearing through the upper waters of the Thames, to 
the disturbance of the placid angler and of swaggering swans 
and to the great discomfiture of punters and rowers — is no doubt 
a practical, useful creation ; but it yields in all requisites of state 
and dignity to great galleys moved by oar, such as are still extant 
on the Bosphorus and on the Tagus. The Prince drove . to the 
chapel of the British Legation, where Divine service was per- 
formed by the chaplain, Mr. Pope. When service was over, 
the Prince proceeded in a steam-launch to the Serapis, and 
was received with the usual honors at 12.30 p.m. The ship 
looked as if she had just come out of dock, sides snowy white, 
gilding fresh, rigging all taut. It was a very gala day on board. 
There were guards of honor, bands, buglers on the decks, and 
officers in full dress at the sides ; "and as the Royal guests and 
Admirals mounted the ladder there were salutes, flourishes, and 
all due forms and observances of respect. The Prince of Wales 



500 



THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 



received the Titular King, his Majesty Dom Ferdinand, at the 
top of the companion, and was engaged in conversation with 
him and the Infante Don Augusto for some time before King 
Luiz I. and Queen Dona Maria Pia came alongside. Yards 
were manned, the crews cheered, and salutes were fired in both 
fleets when the Royal party embarked, and when the Portuguese 
flag was run up to the main of the Serapis. A guard of honor 
of the Royal Marine Light Infantry under Major Snowe and 




JACKO V. JACK. 

Lieutenant Burrowes, the Marine Artillery attachment under 
Lieutenant Lambert — the Serapis band, were drawn up to wel- 
come their Majesties. Soon after 2 o'clock lunch was served, 
and when it was over the party ascended to the upper-deck 
saloon, and wandered over the decks, where -tigers, cheetahs, 
cheetuls, .elephants, dogs, the bear, horses, asses, birds, monkeys, 
displayed teeth, claws, tusks, feathers, tails, and other attractions. 
Everything on board was an object of interest to the Royal 



THE TAGUS. 5OI 

visitors. The two little elephants, not more than six feet high, 
were brought out by the mahouts with great gravity, and the 
Kings and Princes proceeded to mount and to take a little ride 
round the deck in turn. Officers and crew were delighted that 
their pets afforded so much gratification. At last the time for 
parting came. The Titular King, the Infante his son, and their 
suite, departed. The Queen, her sons and ladies of honor, went 
next; but the King still lingered as if loath to part with his 
cousin. At 5.20 P.M. the Prince appeared at the top of the port 
ladder with King Luiz. Once more the Portuguese national 
anthem was played, the marines presented arms, the crew on the 
yards, led by Commander Bedford, gave three good cheers, and 
the King, after one more cordial farewell, stepped into a galley 
and went off to his corvette to escort the Royal squadron out of 
the Tagus. The word was given, " Undress ship ! Prepare to 
slip." The wind was strong on the port bow. There was a 
strong current and a tremendous tide running ; it was full fifteen 
minutes before the Serapis could turn. The landscape was 
beautiful. It was a very charming bit of color — such as Claude 
could have painted and would have loved. A large, somewhat 
washed-out-looking sun descended towards the sea-horizon 
through lemon-tinted clouds, the hue of which came broadening 
up the Tagus, and throwing in its career a mellower tinge on the 
tiers of white houses from the water's edge to the hill-tops ; 
Belem — a castle made expressly for Claude to paint — standing 
out clearly on the sea face; close at hand old-fashioned boats 
and curious crazy-looking craft, galleys, caravels and feluccas, 
side by side with men-of-war in their pride of impenetrable sides 
and tremendous armaments — these would have suited the painter 
well : nor would he have found it amiss, as flashes of fire and 
curling clouds of smoke leaped and spirted from the sides of 
the iron-clads. The Minotaur^ Black Pj-ince, Triumph, Resistance^ 
Monarchy flying together Portuguese and British ensigns from 
the main-tops, dressed in flags, yards manned, marines on 
quarter-decks, moored in a double line ; and the crews on board 
the Portuguese ships, which were in excellent order, burst into a 



502 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

great clang of music and cheers as the Serapis steamed down 
the lordly avenue, and the hills of the Tagus re-echoed the 
familiar, and let us hope always welcome, sounds of a British 
salute. The Prince, on the bridge, acknowledged the salutes by 
touching his cap repeatedly as he passed each ship, and gave a 
friendly wave of the hand to Admiral Seymour and his officers on 
the deck of the Mi?iotaur. At 6 p. m. the Sei-aph^ rapidly leaving 
the rolling cloud of smoke and the cheering sailors astern, was 
close to Belem. The Portuguese corvette, with the King on 
board, had been in collision with the Raleigh^ which telegraphed, 
" Portuguese corvette has run into us, and has I fear suffered 
some damage." The Raleigh was none the worse otherwise for 
an accident, the blame of which may be shared, if not divided. 
At 6.15 p. M. the guns of Belem Castle saluted. Fort St. Julian 
followed, just as it was getting dusk, and the Prince was at last 
homeward bound without any halting-place on his journey. 

May 8. — At noon, lat. 41° 23' n., long. 9'' 45' w. ; distance 
run 170 miles; distance to Finisterre 95 miles. About four 
hours before Finisterre was sighted there came on a strong 
blow from the north-east, which mounted to " 6 " at times, and 
up rose the sea, and down went ports. It was so far unfortunate 
that the change occurred, as the evening had been selected for 
the dinner given by Captain Glyn and the officers of the Ser- 
apis to the Prince. Mr. Morier, the British Minister, Colonel 
Annesley, iith Hussars, Colonel Macdonell, 71st H. L. I., 
Lieutenant Gough, loth Hussars — to whom his Royal Highness 
gave passages on board the Serapis — were invited. The dinner- 
table was laid on the main-deck, in a space between the port 
side and the masts, which was screened off by flags, and the 
band was stationed forward near the ward-room. Captain Glyn, 
in proposing the health of the Prince, took occasion to allude 
" to the interest which he had shown in the officers and men of 
the ship, and to the qualities which had endeared him to all on 
board. In the name of the officers he requested the Prince of 
Wales to accept an album with photographs of the ship's officers 
and detachments of the marines and crew, as a souvenir; and as 



DINNER TO THE PRINCE. 503 

the state of the sea would not allow them to indulge in Highland 
honors, he could only ask them to drink the Prince's health with 
three hearty cheers." This was done most enthusiastically ; the 
book was handed to the Prince. He said " he did not require 
any photographs to keep him in mind of those among whom he 
had passed so many pleasant hours and days, but it was agree- 
able to him to accept such a proof of their kindly feelings. They 
had one and all done everything in their power to promote the suc- 
cess of the voyage and to contribute to his comfort, and there was 
not one of them, from the Captain who commanded, down to the 
stokers who worked at the furnaces, to whom he was not person- 
ally indebted." The Prince, gave " the health of Captain Glyn, 
the officers and men of the Serapis^^ and added to that toast 
" the health of Commander Durrant, and of the officers and men 
of the Royal yacht Osborne, and the health of Captain Tryon 
and of the officers and men of H.M.S. Raleigh,'' and expressed 
his high sense of their services. Captain Glyn, in returning 
thanks, remarked, that among other advantages of the Prince's 
tour was the opportunity of becoming personally acquainted with 
so many officers of the Navy ; although the Prince was a sol- 
dier by profession he had endeared himself to the Navy by the 
interest he took in all that concerned its welfare. The Prince 
had seen no less than four different squadrons of her Majesty's 
Navy, comprising more than one-half of the whole fleet, and his 
acquaintance with them could not but be a source of great satis- 
faction to the service. Lord C. Beresford returned thanks for 
the Raleigh and Osborne, and signal was made that " the Prince 
drinks to the health of the ships," which was duly acknowledged 
in the early morning. Then there were more toasts and speeches, 
music, a little quadrille, and the company broke up and went to 
bed, all in the highest spirits, despite an abominable adverse 
wind, and the premonitory symptoms of what was to be expected 
in England — violent colds, which attacked several of the party. 
May 9. — Strong north-east wind. The sea high, but the 
Serapis has little to fear from the waves even of the Bay of Biscay 
as longj as they come at her right in front. Her speed, however, 



504 THE PRINCE OF WALES TOUR. 

was reduced to a knot. Lat. 44° 50' N., long. 8° 43' w. ; Ushant 
263 miles N.E. 

May 10. — The calm of the voyage home, after so many 
months of excitement and tumult, was very agreeable, although 
it was " enjoyed " in a wild, cold sea. There was, however, a 
sense of solitude just now, for, strange to say, there were no. 
ships in sight. At noon difficult observations gave lat. 48° 15' 
N.,_long. 5° 30' w. ; Yarmouth 220 miles ; Ushant 20 miles s.w. 
At 1. 15 P.M., the squadron being abreast of Ushant, the Raleigh 
was sent in to signal, that the latest news of the Royal squadron 
might be transmitted to London, and then our course was shaped' 
across Channel for the shores of Old England. 

May II. — An hour after midnight the welcome light of the 
Start was made out, and at 2.15 a. m. it was seen well on the 
beam. The first sight which greeted the eyes of the early. risers 
through their ports this morning was the appearance of a few 
white perpendicular streaks far away above the surface of tlie 
crisping waters, which through the glass resolved themselves into 
the chalk cliffs near Portland. Shanklin Light was visible at 
7.35 A. M. ; and as the familiar scene unfolded itself and'grev/ 
nearer and nearer, like some well-known panorama, every eye 
was strained up the narrow stretch of water between the Isle 
of Wight and the mainland. At 10 A. m. the Alberta^ with 
the Royal Standard flying, and a steam tender, probably .the 
Pigmy, in attendance, were reported to be in sight."^ It 
was not the Alberta, however, all the same, but the Enchantress. 
She was wisely lying at anchor in comparatively smooth water ; 
for the sea off the Needles was rough and tumbling. At 10.15 
A. M. the Serapis passed the Needles, and a little yellow yawl, with 
two men on board, flying a red burgee, came bowling down to 
meet her. One of these, an elderly gentleman, stood up, and 
cheered so vigorously that he attracted the Prince's attention, 

* It was the Sprightly, which the Admiralty had placed at the disposal 
of Dr. Birdwood, C. S. I., who had been directed by order of the Prince to 
board the Serapis as soon as possible to take charge of the presents. Not 
one package belonging to the Prince or his suite went astray. 



WELCOME ! 505 

and may rest satisfied with the honor of being the first English- 
man who was seen to welcome his Royal Highness in British 
waters. A large yacht ran down next to meet us ; but whilst 
the squadron was passing by the Shingles the channel was com- 
paratively clear, till it was near Yarmouth, when steamers, laden 
with people, who swarmed like bees on the decks, stood out to 
greet the Prince, and almost rubbed their sides against the Serapis. 
The Enchantress^ in obedience to signal, weighed anchor and 
steamed towards Yarmouth, in advance of the Serapis, in quest 
of smoother water. At 10.45 ^- ^- ^^"^^ Victoria saluted ; but 
somehow the saluting from ships and forts was, it seemed to 
those on board, rather late. Soon the great ship approached 
the object on which all were gazing intently, which was quietly 
steaming ahead. The Prince was on the bridge, glass in hand, 
with his eyes fixed on the Enchantress^ which (happily named) 
had the Princess' standard flying, and was laden with a precious 
burden. By degrees the Princess of Wales and her children 
were distinguished amid the crowd on her deck. When she was 
close to Yarmouth the Serapis " slowed," and the Enchantress, 
altering her course, came down towards her, and in a few minutes 
was passing close on her port side, so that men could make out 
the faces of those on board quite plainly. Then the crew from 
the rigging, the officers on the decks, and all on board the 
Serapis, gave three cheers and a few cheers more, which must 
have proved that their throats, at all events, were not affected 
by the climate of India ;• and as the yacht rounded the stern of 
the Serapis, and came up on her starboard quarter, so that every 
one could see the Princess and her children looking up towards 
our deck, men confessed that they felt a little inclination to 
gulp down something in their throats. The band played " Home, 
Sweet Home," the marines presented arms as she passed. The 
Serapis anchored at 11 A. M., the barge was lowered at once, and 
the Prince immediately went on board the Eiichantress. It may 
be imagined with what joy he was welcomed ! In a quarter of 
an hour the Princess of Wales and the Royal children left the 
yacht and came on board the Serapis. The officers of the ship, 
22 



5o6 

the guard of honor of the marines and the band were drawn up 
on the main-deck facing tlie companion, the gentlemen of the 
Prince's suite extending in a line along the deck up to the 
entrance to the saloon. The Princess had a gracious smile or a 
pleasant word for those who were known to her as she passed to 
the saloon. To the Royal children the great ship seemed a 
treasure-house of wonder and delight, for there were tigers and 
tailless dogs, elephants, deer, horses, ostriches, leopards, birds, 
diminutive ponies and cattle, monkeys, to be exhibited, visited, 
petted or dreaded. At 12 p. m. th.& Serapis weighed, and steamed 
towards Portsmouth. On her way the Duke of Edinburgh came 
on board to welcome his Royal brother. 

The scene at the landing at Portsmouth was a becoming 
prelude to the greeting which the whole country gave the Prince 
of Wales on his return from the visit to India, which will be for 
ever a great landmark in the History of the Empire. 




HAVEN AND HOME. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX. 



I. 

SUITE OF THE PRINCE OF WALES. 

1. His Grace the Duke of Sutherland, K.G. 

2. The Right Honorable Sir Bartle Frere, G.C.S.I., K.C.B. 

3. The Lord Suffield (Lord-in- Waiting and Head of the Household of H. 

R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

4. Major-General the Lord Alfred Paget (Clerk Marshal to H.M. the 

Queen). 

5. The Earl of Aylesford. 

6. Major-General Probyn,C.B.,V.C. (Equerry in Waiting to H. R.H. the 

Prince of Wales). 

7. Lieut.-Colonel Arthur Ellis (Grenadier Guards, Equerry in Waiting 

to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

8. Mr. Francis Knollys (Private Secretary to H.R.H. the Prince Wales). 

9. Surgeon-General Fayrer C.S.I. (Physician to H.R.H. the Prince of 

Wales). 

10. Captain the Honorable H. Carr Glyn, C.B., Royal Navy (Aide-de- 

Camp to H.M. the Queen, commanding H.M.S. Serapis). 

11. Colonel Owen Williams (Commanding Royal Regiment of Horse 

Guards). 

12. Lieutenant the Lord Charles Beresford, M.P., Royal Navy (Aide- 

de-Camp to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

13. Captain the Lord Carington, Royal Horse Guards (Aide-de-Camp to 

H.R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

509 



510 



APPENDIX. 



14. The Reverend Canon Duckworth (Chaplain to H.M. the Queen 

and to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

15. Lieutenant Augustus Fitz George, Rifle Brigade (Extra Aide-de- 

Camp to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

16. Commander Durrant, Royal Navy (Commanding Royal Yacht Osborne). 

17. Mr. W. H. Russell (Honorary Private Secretary to H.R.H. the Prince 

of Wales). 

18. Mr. Albert Grey (Private Secretary to the Right Honorable Sir Bartle 

Frere). 

19. Mr. Sydney Hall (Artist in the Suite of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales). 

Firsi Mess. 



Mr. Downie (Page). 
Grimm (Valet). 
Macdonald /Jager). 
Bonnemain (Chief Cook). 
Scurti (Assist. Cook). 
Prince (Stud Groom). 
Macalister (Duke of Suther- 
land). 



Mr. Feelan (Lord Sufifield). 
" Isaacson (India Office). 
" Bartlett (Naturalist). 
" MuDD (Botanist). 
" Abraham (Assist, to Mr. Isaac* 
son). 



Second Mess. 



Blackburn (Sergeant Footman). 
GuRR (Footman). 
Palmer (Footman). 
Chandler (Wardrobe-man). 
Robertson (Assistant Jager). 
Mitchell (Cook's Apprentice). 
CooLiDGE (Groom). 
Wright (Lord Carington). 
Potter (Lo.^d Alfred Paget). 



Myson (Lord Aylesford). 
Treadv^ell (Sir Bartle Frere). 
Evans (Colonel Ellis). 
GiLLARD (Major-General Probyn). 
Tom Fat (Lord C. Beresford). 
James (Dr. Fayrer). 
Malt (Mr. FitzGeorge). 
Phipps (Colonel Williams). 
McLachlan (Duke of Sutherland), 



II. 



THE LANDING IN BOMBAY. 



The following notification, issued by the political Department, gives the 
details of the entry and procession : 

** His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales arrived at Bombay at 
9 a. m. on the 8th instant in Her Majesty's Steam Ship Serapis. 



THE LANDING IN BOMBAY. 5II 

" On the Serapis entering the harbor a Royal salute was fired by the 
ships of war under the command of his Excellency the Naval Commander-in- 
Chief and by the saluting battery. 

" At 10 A. M. his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief of her Majesty's 
Naval Forces in India and Rear-Admiral Lambert, C.B., proceeded on board 
Her Majesty's Steam Ship Serapis. 

" At 3 P. M. his Excellency the Viceroy and Governor-General, attended 
by his Suite, arrived at the Dockyard and proceeded on board Her Majesty's 
Ship Serapis. His Excellency was received at the Dockyard by a Guard of 
Honor; and on his embarkation Royal salutes were fired from the saluting 
battery and by Her Majesty's Ships of War. While on board the Serapis his 
Excellency the Viceroy presented the Foreign Secretary to the Government of 
India and the Members of his own Personal Staff to his Royal Highness the 
Prince of Wales. 

"At 3.25 P. M. his Excellency the Governor of Bombay, attended by his 
Staff, and conducted by the Superintendent of the Borr bay Marine, proceeded 
on board Her Majesty's Steam Ship Serapis under the usual salute from the 
saluting battery, and was presented to his Royal Highness by his Excellency 
the Viceroy. His Excellency was accompanied on board by the Chief Justice, 
his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief, the Members of Council, and the 
officer commanding the troops in Bombay, who were presented to his Royal 
Highness by his Excellency the Governor of Bombay. 

" At 3.45 p. M. the Governor of Bombay and Staff, and the Officers who 
accompanied his Excellency, returned to the Dockyard. 

" At 4 p. M. his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, accompanied by 
his Excellency the Viceroy, and attended by his Suite, quitted Her Majesty's 
Ship Serapis in the Royal Barge under a Royal salute from Her Majesty's 
Ships of War. 

" His Royal Highness landed under a salute of 21 guns from the saluting 
battery, and a guard of Honor of European Infantry was drawn up opposite 
the landing-place. 

" His Royal Highness was received on landing by his Excellency the 
Governor of Bombay, the Chief Justice, his Excellency the Commander-in- 
Chief, the Roman Catholic Bishop, the Members of Council, the Judges of 
the High Court of Judicature at Bombay, the Additional Members of Council, 
the Commissioner in Sind, the Commissioner of Customs and Opium, the 
Revenue Commissioners, the Secretaries and Under-Secretaries to Gov- 
ernment, the Chairman of the Corporation of Bombay, the Chairman of 
the Bench of Justices, the Municipal Commissioner, and the Sheriff of 
Bombay. 

" The Native Princes, Chiefs, and Sirdars assembled in Bombay in honor 
of his Royal Highness, attended on the occasion." 



512 APPENDIX. 

PROCESSION 



On Horseback. 

The Assistant Quartermaster-General, Bombay District. 

The Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General, Bombay District. 

i^ Squadron of the 3d Hussafs in column of Fours headed by the Band of 

the Regiment. 
A Battery of Royal Horse Artillery in column of route. 
A Squadron of Poona Horse in column of fours. 



The Officer Commanding Poona 

Horse. 
The Brigade-Major. 
Brigadier-General Phayre, C. B., 

Aide-de-Camp to the Queen. 



The Officer Commanding ist 
Bombay Lancers. 

A Staff Officer. 

Brigadier-General Gell, Com- 
manding Bombay District. 



A Detachment of His Excellency the Governor's Body Guard. 
Carriages of His Excellency the Governor of Bombay. 

1. Captain Spencer, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor of 

Bombay. 
Captain Anderson, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor of 

Bombay. 
Captain Grey, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor of Bombay. 
Jemadar Shaik Cassim, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor 

of Bombay. 

2. C. S. Close, Esq., Surgeon to His Excellency the Governor of Bombay. - 
Lieut. Macllwaine, R. N., Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor 

of Bombay. 
Captain Daniel, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor of Bombay. 
Captain Makellar, Aide-de Camp to His Excellency the Governor of 

Bombay. 

3. E. R. Wodehouse, Esq., Private Secretary to His Excellency the Governor 

of Bombay. 
Captain Jervoise, Military Secretary to the Governor of Bombay. 
Captain Wodehouse, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor of 

Bombay. 
Lord Hastings. 

4. His Excellency the Governor of Bombay. 
Sir Bartle Frere, G. C. S. I., K. C. B. 

Captain Fawkes, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Governor of 

Bombay. 
A Detachment of His Excellency the Governor's Body Guard. 



THE LANDING IN BOMBAY. 513 

Carriages of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. 

1. Captain FitzGeorge, Aide -de-Camp to His Royal Highness the Prince of 

Wales. 
Albert Grey, Esq., Private Secretary to Sir Bartle Frere. 
W. H. Russell, Esq., LL.D., Honorary Private Secretary to His Royal 

Highness the Prince of Wales. 
S. P. Hall, Esq. 

2. Lord Carington, Aide-de-Camp to His Royal Highness the Prince of 

Wales. 
Francis Knollys, Esq., Private Secretary to His Royal Highness the 

Prince of Wales. 
Surgeon-General Fayrer, C. S. I., Special Duty with His Royal Highness 

the Prince of Wales. 

3. Major Bradford, Special Duty with His Royal Highness the Prince of 

Wales. 
Reverend Canon Duckworth, Chaplain to His Royal Highness the Prince 

of Wales. 
Lord Charles Beresford, Aide-de-Camp to His Royal Highness the Prince 

of Wales. 

4. Major Williams, Special Duty with His Royal Highness the Prince of 

Wales. 
Lord Aylesford, Equerry to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. 
Colonel Owen Williams, Equerry to His Royal Highness the Prince of 

Wales. 

5. Lord Suffield, Lord-in-Waiting to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. 
Lieut.-Colonel Ellis, Equerry to His Royal Highness the Prince of 

Wales. 
Major Henderson, Political Officer with His Royal Highness the Prince 

of Wales. 
Major Sartorius, v. C, CM. G., Special Duty with his Royal Highness 

the Prince of Wales. 

6. Duke of Sutherland, K. G. 
Lord Alfred Paget. 

Major-General Browne, C.B., V. C, Special Duty with His Royal High- 
ness the Prince of Wales. 
A detachment of His Excellency the Viceroy's Body Guard. 

Carriages of His Excellency the Viceroy and Governor-General. 

I. Lieutenant Cavendish, R. N., Flag Lieutenant of His Excellency the Com- 
mander-in-Chief of Her Majesty's Naval Forces in India. 
Lieutenant Foley, R. N., Flag Lieutenant of the Rear-Admiral Second in 
Command. 



SH 



APPENDIX. 



Captain Fanner, Aide-de-Camp to his Excellency the Viceroy. 

The Rear-Admiral Second in Command. 

Captain Evelyn Baring, Private Secretary to His Excellency the Viceroy. 

Captain Jackson, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Viceroy. 

The Honorable F. Baring, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Viceroy. 

His Excellency the Commander-in-Chief of Her Majesty's Naval Forces 

in India. » 

C. U. Aitchison, Esq., C. S. I., Secretary to the Government of India. 
Colonel Earle, Military Secretary to His Excellency the Viceroy. 
Captain Biddulph, Aide-de-Camp to His Excellency the Viceroy. 
A Detachment of His Excellency the Viceroy's Body Guard. 



The Adjutant of the Viceroy His Royal High- 
the Viceroy's J and Gover- ness the Prince 

Body Guard | nor-General. of Wales. 
(on horse- The Equerry in attendance on his Royal 

back). ( Highness. 

The Commissioner of Police (on horseback), 

A Detachment of His Excellency the Viceroy's Body Guard. 



The Command- 
ant of the 
Viceroy's 
Body Guard 
(o n horse- 
back). 



Carriages of Native Princes invited to take part in the Procession. 

The Deputation from His Highness the Nizam. 

His Highness Syajee Rao, Gaekwar of Baroda. 

His Highness the Maharaja of Mysore. 

His Highness the Maharana of Meywar (Oodeypur). 

His Highness Siwajee Chutraputtee Maharaj, Raja of Kolhapur. 

His Highness Maharao Shree Mirza Rajay Pragmuljee, G. C. S. L, Rao of 

Cutch. 
His Highness Kesrusingjee Jewunsingjee, Maharaja of Edar. 
His Highness Meer Ali Morad of Khairpur. 

His Highness Mohubut Khanjee, K. C. S. I., Nawab of Junagarh. 
His Highness Jam Shrce Vibbajee, Jam of Nawanagar. 
His Highness Rawul Shree Tukhutsingjee, Thakur Saheb of Bhaunagar. 
His Highness Rah Shree Mansingjee, Raj Saheb of Dhrangadra. 
Gumbheersingjee, Raja of Rajpipla. 
His Excellency Zorawur Khan, Dewan of Pahlanpur. 
Bismilla Khan, Nawab of Radhanpur. 



Carriages of other Officers and gentlemen taking part in the Procession. 



I. The Chief Justice of Bombay. 

His Excellency the Commander-in-Chief. 



FIELD STATES, ETC. 



515 



Members of Council. 



2. The Honorable A. Rogers, 
The Honorable J. Gibbs, 

3. The Honorable Sir Charles Sargent. 
The Honorable Mr. Justice Bayley. 

4. The Honorable Mr. Justice Kemball. 
The Honorable Mr. Justice Green. 

5. The Honorable Mr. Justice West. 

The Honorable Mr. Justice Nanabhai Haridas. 

6. The Honorable A. R. Scoble. 

The Honorable Major-General Kennedy. 

7. The Honorable Colonel W. C. Anderson. 
The Honorable E. W. Ravenscroft. 

8. The Honorable Rao Saheb W. N. Mundlick. 

The Honorable Rao Saheb Becherdass Ambaidass. 

9. The Honorable Nacoda Mahomed Ali Rogay. 

The Honorable Khan Bahadoor Padamjee Pestonjee. 

10. The Honorable Donald Graham. 

11. The Chairman of the Municipal Corporation. 
The Municipal Commissioner. 

The Sheriff of Bombay. 

A Squadron of the ist Bombay Lancers in column of Fours. 



POONAH. 

Parade ^TKTE.—it^tk November, 1875. — (Page 164.) 



Corps. 



Head-Quarters, 4th Brigade, R. A. 
Head-Quarters, 9th Brigade, R. A. 

A-4 Royal Artillery 

E-4 Royal Artillery 

E-9 Royal Artillery 

Sappers and Miners ...'.. 

«j 1 2—ji\\ Fusiliers 

'is'rt I ist Grenadier Regiment N. ] 
-^.y' [ 8th Regiment N. I. . . . 
«M J isth Regiment N. I. . . . 

" ' 1 2-i5th Foot 

•^•o i 13th Regiment N. I. . . . 
•-I M r 17th Regiment N- I. . . . 
t5"j^ J 19th Regiment N. I. . . . 

Grand Total. 



10 69 255 



r- 



is 



75 
75 
44 
204 
536 
374 
472 
328 
490 
312 
433 
259 



3602 



87 
49 
226 
612 
453 
541 
380 
557 
365 
476 
308 



4145 289 



Si6 



APPENDIX. 



BOMBAY.— (Page 167.) 

After the presentation of colors to the Bombay Marine Battalion on i6th 
November, there was a review before the Prince. The following was the 
Parade State : 



Corps. 



D-C. Royal Horse Artillery 

3d Hussars ^ 

ist Light Cavalry (Lancers) 

Poena Horse 

6th Brigade R. A 

i-2d Queen's 

20th Regiment N. I. . . . 
2ist Regiment N. I. . . . 
26th Regiment N. I. . . . 



Grand Total 



16 16 



58 



II 



6 S 



HQ 



78 
112 

173 
185 
121 
300 
4" 
413 
278 



57 207] 



87 
144 
196 
212 
132 
315 
494 
467 
338 

2385 



After the march-past vSir C. Staveley issued the following G. O. C: 
The Commander-in-Chief has the gratification to announce that the Field- 
Marshal His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, having reviewed the troops, 
both European and Native, at Poona and Bombay, the first he has seen in 
India, has been graciously pleased to express his approval of their appearance 
on parade, and of the steadiness and precision of their movements. 



RETURN VISITS. 

There were printed programmes for each visit made to, and each return 
visit made by the Prince, and one will serve, mutatis mutandis, for all. The 
directions were undeviatingly observed, and the programmes were useful guides, 
as notes of what to observe in the case of each Chief were pencilled on the 
back. There were also libelli issued by the Government, giving accounts of 
the State and family of each Chief, generally adorned by photograph : 

Foreign Department. 

Fort William, December 27, 1875. 

Return Visit of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to Maharajah 
Scindia, G. C. S, I. 

His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales will return the visit of His 
Highness the Maharaja Scindia, on Wednesday, the 29th day of December, at 



RETURN VISITS. 51/ 

1 1.30 A.M. A deputation, consisting of the four principal members of his 
Highness's suite present in Calcutta, will wait on his Royal Highness the 
Prince of Wales at Government House, at 10.45 ^' ^' precisely, to conduct his 
Royal Highness to the private residence (No 5, Alipoor) of the Maharaja. 
His Royal Highness will be attended by Major P. D. Henderson, Major R. 
W, Sartorius, and by such members of the personal staff as his Royal High- 
ness may appoint. The Maharaja, accompanied by the Political Officer on duty 
with his Highness, will receive his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales under 
the portico of his house as his Royal Highness alights from his carriage, and will 
conduct his Royal Highness to a seat, which will be immediately on the Mahara- 
ja's right hand. On the right of the Prince will sit Major P. D. Henderson, 
Major R. W. Sartorius, and the personal Staff. On the left of the Maharaja 
will sit the Political Officer on duty with his Highness, and beyond him the 
Maharaja's relatives and attendants, according to their rank. After a short 
conversation, the Maharaja's relatives and attendants will be presented to His 
Royal Highness by the Political Officer on duty with the Maharaja, and will 
offer the usual nuzzars, which will be touched and remitted. At the close of 
the interview the Maharaja will present uttur and pan to His Royal Highness 
the Prince of Wales, and one of his Highness's principal attendants to the 
other officers present. The Maharaja will take leave of the Prmce under the 
portico of his Highness's house. The four members of his Highness's suite 
who met his Royal Highness will return with his Royal Highness until it shall 
be the pleasure of his Royal Highness to dispense with their attendance. A 
Guard of Honor will be drawn up at the Maharaja's house, and will salute on 
the arrival and departure of His Royal Highness. His Royal Highness will be 
escorted by the Body Guard, Full dress will be worn by all officers on this 
occasion. 

P. D. Henderson, Major, Political Officer on duty with his 

Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. 



5l8 APPENDIX. 

NEW YEAR'S NIGHT.— (Page 336.) 

The bill ot the play on the occasion of the Prince's visit on New Year's 
night to the Theatre, Calcutta^ was as follows : 

ENGLISH'S THEATRE, 7 LINDSAY STREET 

Directress — Mrs. E. English. 

TO-NIGHT, SATURDAY, ist JANUARY, 1876. 

His Royal Highness 

THE PRINCE OF WALES'S 
STATE NIGHT BY VICE-REGAL COMMAND, 

AND 

Benefit of Mrs. English. 



Tenth appearance in India of the Celebrated and World-Renowned 
CHARLES MATHEWS, 
The greatest Comedian of the age, and acknowledged as such by the World. 



The Performance will commence (by Command) at 9.30 p.m. precisely, with 
Charles Mathews' latest London success and own Comedy, entitled, 

MY A WFUL DAD ! ! 

Mr. Adonis Evergreen — Mr. Charles Mathews (his Original Character). 

Richard Evergreen (his son, aged 27) . Mr G. Barrett. 

Prince Kotchacoff Mr. H, Walton. 

Humphrey Lovekin (aged 40) .... Mr. H. Jordan. 
Fibs ^ « ^ Mr. C. Vere. 

Nibs > Clerks to Richard Evergreen . . \ Mr. Cooke. 
Dibs ) ( Mr. F. Stuart. 

Cruets (a Wait'er) Mr. F. Stuart. 

Matilda Weddagain Miss Annie Baldwin. 

Emma Marigold Miss Edith Wilson. 

Mrs. Biggs Miss Sallie Turner. 

Charlotte Fitzplantagenet {n€e Gris- 

kin) Miss Nellie Vincent 

Evangeline Clara Vere-de-Vere {^n€e 

Tadpole) Miss Marie Kean. 



NEW YEARS NIGHT. ' 

To conclude with (by special request), 
LITTLE AMY ROBS ART!!! 

OR, YE QUEEN, YE EARLE, AND YE MAYDENNE. 

Queen Elizabeth Mr. G. Barrett. 

Earl of Leicester Miss Edith Wilson. 

Earl of Sussex Miss Marie Kean. 

Earl of Essex Mis? Ellen Kemp. 

Earl of Surrey Miss Mabel Howard 

Sir Walter Raleigh Miss Nellie Vincent. 

Tressilian Miss Annie Howard 

Varney Mr. H. Walton. 

Wayland Smith (a Vagabond) .... Mr. F. Mervin. 

Tony Foster . . - Mr. F. Stuart. 

Mike Lambourne Mr. H. Jordan. 

Amy Robs art Miss Topsey Venne. 

Janet Miss Stella Balham- 



SCENERY by HERR M. FREYBERGER. 

MUSIC arranged by Mr. ALFRED PLUMPTON. 
On this occasion the interior of the House will be festively decorated, and the 

exterior brilliantly illuminated by Messrs. Freyberger and Anderson. 

The Floral Decorations of the exterior and interior of the House have 

been entrusted to Mr. M. Baker, the Florist. 

The Royal Box will befitted up by Messrs. Lazarus dr* Co. 



PRICES of admission. 

Upper Tier Boxes with Six Seats . . Rs. i,ooo each=;,f lOO 
Lower Tier Boxes with Five Seats . . " 500 " = 50 

Stalls " 30 " = 3 

Maharajahs, Rajahs, Nawabs, Chiefs, and the €lite of Calcutta who may 
wish to reserve Boxes on this interesting occasion are solicited to com- 
municate through their Agents, or by letter with Mrs. English, or with Herr 
M. Freyberger, 14 Chowringhee Road. 



520 



APPENDIX. 



THE DELHI REVIEW.— (Page 363). 

The following is an account of the force which was present at Delhi on 
the 1 2th January, 1876 : 

* Artillery. 



A. Battery, A. Brigade 

C. Battery, A. Brigade 

D. Battery, A. Brigade 
A. Battery, C. Brigade 



Royal Horse Artillery. 

Major F. G. Ravenhill. 
Major F. A. Whinyates. 
Major P. E. Hill. 
Major M. M. FitzGerald. 

Field Artillery. 

Major W. J. Finch. 
Major A. Dixon. 
Major D. S Pemberton 
Major A. H. Davidson. 
Major E. H. Dyke. 



A. Battery, 8th Brigade 

B. Battery, 8th Brigade 
F. Battery, 8th Brigade 
A. Battery, 19th Brigade 

C. Battery, 19th Brigade 
F. Battery, 19th Brigade Major W. Manderson. 

Mountain Battery. 
6th Battery, 13th Brigade Major H. A. Tracey. 

Heavy Battery. 
No. I Battery, 23d Brigade Major P. H. Harcourt 



Cavalry. 

loth Hussars Major Lord Ralph 

Kerr. 
4th Bengal Cavalry .. Col. G. C. Hankiri 

(Hindustanees — gen- 
eral mixture of various 

classes.) 
loth Bengal Lancers . .. Major O. Barnes 

(Sikhs, Pathans, &c. — 

class troop system.) 
2d Punjab Cavalry .. Captain F. Lance 

Punjab Frontier Force 

— class troop system. ) 



Three 40-pr. Armstrong 
B. L. ; two 8-inch 
mortars ; two 5>^-in. 
cohorns. 



6th of the Old Army. 
Did not mutiny. 



2d Regiment, " Hod- 
son's Horse." 

Raised by Major-Gen. 
eral Sam Browne be- 
fore Mutiny. Com- 
manded by him 
throughout Mutiny, 



THE DELHI REVIEW. 



521 



nth Hussars 



Lieut.-Col. A. L. 

Annesley, 
Major H. R. Osborne. 



5th Bengal Cavalry 
(General mixture of va- 
rious classes.) 

1st Regiment,* Central Captain H. M. Buller. 
Indian Horse. 

13th Hussars 



6th Bengal Cavalry 
(Hindustanees, Sikhs, 
Jats, &c. — class troop 
system.) 



Lieut.-Col. H. C. 

Russell, C. B. 
Major G. A. A. 

Baker. 



15th Bengal Cavalry. — Major G. A- Pren- 
"Mooltanee Horse." dergast. 

(Men from the banks 
of the Indus and the 
Deyra j at, under their 
own hereditary Chiefs.) 



15th Hussars .. .. , 

7th Bengal Cavalry .. 
(General mixture of va- 
rious classes.) 

nth Bengal Lancers. — 
« Probyn's Horse." 
(Sikhs and Afghans- 
class troop system.) 



Bengal Sappers and 
Miners. 



73d Regiment .. 



Lieut.-Col. J. E. 

Swindley. 
Captain H. C. Creak 



Major R. E. Boyle 



Engineers. 

Col. F. R. Maunsell, 
C. B. 

Infantry. 

Major J. W. Barnes, 



Old 8th Irregular Cav- 
alry. Commanded by 
Colonel Richardson 
before the Mutiny ; 
still commanded by 
him. 

Raised during the Mu- 
tiny by Major-Gen- 
eral Cureton in the 
Derajab. All Pa- 
thans, calling them- 
selves Ben d'Israeli. 
Their last migration, 
250 years ago, was 
from Candahar. They 
are not Aff -^.hans. 



The old 17th; "Lip- 
hott's Regiment." 

Raised by Wale, who 
was killed at tli^e head 
of the Regiment at 
Lucknow. Succeed- 
ed by Probyn. 



522 



APPENDIX. 



nth Native Infantry 
(General mixture of 
various classes.) 

33d Native Infantry 
(General mixture of va- 
rious classes.) 



Major P. H. F. 
Harris. 

Lieut.-Col. J. T. 
Harris. 



4tli Battalion, Rifle 

gade. 
3d Goorkhas ... 

(•Class Regiment.) 



Bri- 



Lieut.-Col. H 
Newdigate. 
Col. A. Paterson. 



R. L. 



Formerly 70th. 

Raised during the Mutiny 
at Allahabad. Com-, 
posed of various class- 
es, of which the shep- 
herds and agricultur- 
ists prevail. Presumed 
to be a low-caste Reg- 
iment, because not com- 
posed of Brahmins, 
Rajpoots, &c. 



4th Goorkhas , 

(Class Regiment.) 
2d Battalion, 60th Rifles 

2d Ghoorkas, Sirmoor 
Battalion. 
(Class Regiment.) 



Lieut.-Col. J. P. 

Turton. 
Lieut.-Col. H. P. 

Montgomery. 
Lieut.-Col. D. Mac- 

intyre, V. C. 



1st Punjab Infantry .. .. Major F. J. Kean 
(Punjab Frontier Force.) 



Taken into the British 
service as a Regiment. 
Had fought -against 
us. Fought on our 
side against the 
Sikhs in the Sutlej 
with the 60th and 
Coke's Rifles. Held 
Hindoo Rao's house 
throughout the siege 
of Delhi. 

Coke's Rifles. Raised by 
Coke for Frontier sisr- 
vice in 1850. Largely 
composed of Affreedis. 
Held the Ridge with 
the 60th and the 2d 
Ghoorkas during the 
siege. Casualties since 
formation amount to 
about 680. 



39th Regiment 



Col. R. H. Currie 



THE DELHI REVIEW. 



523 



51st Regiment .. 

8th Native Infantry 
(Rajpoots, Hindusta- 
nees, Pathans, Sikhs, 
&c. — class company sys- 
tem.) 

1st Battalion, 8th Regi- 
ment. 

85th Regiment 

32d Native Infantry. — 
" Pioneers." 
(Muzbee Sikhs — cljass 
regiment.) 



Lieut.-Col. C. Acton. 
Col. T. A. Carey . 



Lieut.-Col. G. H. 

Cochrane. 
Major W. Hallowes 
Lieut.-Col. G. A. 

Williams. 



Col. G. H. Thompson 



2d Battalion, 12th Regi- Lieut.-Col. J. M'Kay. 
ment. 

iSth Native Infantry 
(The Loodianah Regi- 
ment, Sikhs, &c. — 
general mixture.) 



45th Native Infantry 
(Rattray's Sikhs — class 
regiment.) 



Major F. M. Arm- 
strong. 



62d Regiment 

28th Native Infantry 
(Punjabees — class 
pany system.) 



Lieut.-Col. S. G. 

Carter. 
Lieut.-Col. W. C. 

Hamilton., 



Old 59th. When sta- 
tioned in the Punjab, 
enlisted a large number 
of Sikhs and Pathans. 



Raised for service at 
Delhi. Altogether 
composed of Muzbi 
Sikhs. Served during 
the Mutiny in Bhoo- 
tan and in the Um- 
beylah Pass. 



All Sikhs. Called the 
Loodianah Regiment. 
Existed before the 
Mutiny as an Irregu- 
lar Regiment. Was 
raised m vhat were 
called the Protected 
States. 
All Sikhs, excepting one 
Company of Dogras 
(Hill men). Sikhs 
drawn from the neigh- 
borhood of Umritam. 
Originally a police 
Battalion, and brought 
into the line in recog- 
nition of its distin- 
guished services un- 
der Colonel Rattray. 



The old 1 6th. Largely 
composed of Sikhs 
Punjabees, and Pa- 
thans. 



524 



APPENDIX. 



31st Native Infantry 

(Punjabees — class com- 
pany system.) ' 



Major H. L. C. 
Bernard. 



1st Battalion, 6th Regi- 
ment. 

■26th Native Infantry 
(Punjabees — class com- 
pany system.) 



Raised in the Mutiny. 
Four Companies of 
Sikhs ; remaining four 
Companies of various 

castes Punjabees, 

Musalmans, &c. 



Lieut.-Col. T. L. 

Bell. 
Lieut.-Col. C. M. 

Longmore. 



Raised when the Muti- 
ny broke out, and 
numbered i8th. Sir 
Herbert Edwardes 
was said to have col- 
lected all the bud- 
mashes about Pesha- 
wur and neighboring 
hills, and regimented 
them under Lieut- 
Colonel (then Lieu- 
tenant) Williamson — 
a good frontier offi- 
cer, well acquainted 
with the frontier 
tribes. 
Major J. W. One of the old Frontier 

McQueen. Regiments. Served 

- ' throughout the Oudh 

Campaign under the 
then Major Vaughan. 
A Class Regiment— for instance, Ghoorkas, Cureton's Mooltanee Cav- 
alry, the 1st, 2d, and 3d Native Infantry — all Hindoostanis. 

A Class Company Regiment would have, for instance, two or three Com- 
panies of Sikhs, a Company of Hindoostanis, a couple of Companies of 
Musalmans, a company Goojurs a Company of Akeers, occasionally a Com- 
pany of Ghoorkas, a Company of Affreedis, &c., &c. 

The Bengal army consists of about 43,000 men, 19 regiments of cavalry 
(cavalry regiment about 480 men), and 49 regiments of Infantry (infantry regi- 
ment about 700 men). The Punjab Frontier force of about 12,000 men. 

In the Bengal army there are about 8000 Sikhs, 13,000 Mohammedans. 
The remainder are Hindoos of various castes. 

The regiments raised for service in the Mutiny had four British officers 
only. After that war the complement was increased to six; a seventh was 
added as a reserve for civil employ. It is to be remembered that each regi- 



5th Punjab Infantry 

(Punjab Frontier Force 
— class company sys- 
tem.) 



CAVALRY FIELD-DAY, DELHL 525 

ment has, besides its full complement of native officers, two per Troop or 
Company, who should be, and are in the good regiments, what the Captains 
and Subalterns are in the British regiments. 



•Return of the Cavalry Division, the 17th January, 1876. 

Divisional Staff. 

Brigadier J. Watson, C. B., V. C Commanding Division. 

Lieut.-Colonel Hugh Gough, C. B.,V. C. .. Assistant Adjutant-General. 

Major S. de A. C. Clarke, 4th Hussars .. Assistant Adjutant-General. 

Lieutenant F. C. Burton, ist B. C. .. ., Assistant Quartermaster-General. 

Major W. H. Macnaghten 13th B. C. .. Orderly Officer. 

ist Cavalry Brigade. 

Colonel C. Gough, C. B., V.C Commanding. 

Captain W. Clayton, 9th Lancers .. .. Brigade-Major. 

Troops. 

loth Royal Hussars — Major Lord Ralph Kerr commanding — 265 sabres. 
2d Punjab Cavalry — Captain F. Lance commanding — 226 sabres, 
loth Bengal Lancers, " Hodson's Horse " — Major O. Barnes commanding — 
225 sabres. 

2d Cavalry Brigade. 

Colonel J. Miller, 13th Hussars Commanding. 

Captain A. P. Palmer, S. C Brigade Major. 

Troops. 

nth Prince Albert's Own Hussars — Lieut.-Colonel Lyttelton Annesley com- 
manding — 220 sabres. 

5th Bengal Cavalry — Major H. Osborn commanding^279 sabres. 

ist Regiment Central India Horse — Captain H. Buller commanding — 279 
sabres. 

3d Cavalry Brigade. 

Colonel G. C. Hankin, S. C Commanding. 

Captain G. Luck, 15th Hussars Brigade-Major. 

Troops. 
13th Hussars— Lieut.-Colonel B. Russell. ,C B., commanding— 260 sabres, 
/jih Bengal Cavalry — Major M. Prendergast commanding — 255 sabres. 
6th Bengal Cavalry — Major G. A, A. Baker commanding — 266 sabres. 



526 APPENDIX. 



4th Cavalry Brigade. 

Colonel T. Kennedy, S. C Commanding. 

Captain H. R. Abadie, 9th Lancers .. Brigade-Major. 



Troops. 

15th Hussars — Lieut-Colonel J, E. Swindley commanding — 279 sabres, 
nth Bengal Lancers, " Probyn's Horse " — Major R. E. Boyle commanding — 
2QI sabres. 

Total of all ranks, 2857. 

HUGH GOUGH, Lieut.-Colonel, 

Assistant Adjutant-General. 

Camp of Exercise, i8th February 1876. 



FORCE ORDER. 

{Issued by Scindia at Gzvalior, on ■^d February, 1876.) 

The march-past on the ist instant gave satisfaction to the Field Marshal 
His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, who greatly praised the command- 
ing Officers. It is therefore notified on the part of His Highness the Maha- 
raja to the Commanding Officers that they are to impress this on their hearts 
with gladness of spirit, and to continue to perform their respective duties in a 
creditable and exemplary manner, in order that the fame of the force and of 
themselves may be lasting. 



FAREWELL TO INDIA. 52/ 

THE PRINCE'S FAREWELL TO INDIA. 

"Fort William, March ijth, 1876. 

" Ill's Excellency the Viceroy and Governor-General has the satisfaction 
of publishing for general information, the following letter, which he has had 
the honor of receiving from his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales : — 

" ' H.M.'s Ship " Serapis^' Bombay, March lyh. 

" ' My dear Lord Norths rook, 

" ' I cannot leave India without expressing to you, as the Queen's Repre- 
sentative of this vast Empire, the sincere pleasure and the deep interest with 
which I have visited this great and wonderful country. As you are aware, it 
has been my hope and intention for some years past to see India, with a view 
to become more intimately acquainted with the Queen's subjects in this dis- 
tant part of her Empire, and to examine for myself those objects of interest 
which have always had so great an attraction for travellers. I may say can- 
didly that my expectations have been more than realized by what I have 
witnessed, so that I return to my native country most deeply impressed with 
all I have seen and heard. The information I have gained will, I am 
confident, be of the greatest value to me, and will form a useful foundation 
for much that I hope hereafter to acquire. The reception I have met with 
from the Princes and Chiefs, and from the Native population at large, is most 
gratifying to me, as the evidence of loyalty thus manifested shows an attach- 
ment to the Queen and to the Throne, which I trust will be made every year 
more lasting. It is my earnest hope that the many millions of the Queen's 
Indian subjects may daily become more convinced of the advantages of Brit- 
ish rule, and that they may realize more fully that the Sovereign and the 
Government of England have the interests and well-being of India very sin- 
cerely at heart. I have had frequent opportunities of seeing Native troops 
of all branches of the Service, and I cannot withhold my opinion that they con- 
stitute an army of which we may feel justly proud. The " march-past " at Delhi 
of so many distinguished officers and of such highly disciplined troops was a 
most impressive sight, and one which I shall not easily forget. I wish also 
to state my high appreciation of the Civil Service, and I feel assured that the 
manner in which their arduous duties are performed tends greatly to the pros- 
perity and the contentment of all classes of the community. I cannot conclude 
without thanking you, and all those in authority, for the facilities which have 
enabled me to traverse so rapidly so large an extent of country, and rest assured 
I shall ever retain a grateful memory of the hospitality tendered by yourself 
and by others who have so kindly received me. 

" ' Believe me, my dear Lord Northbrook, 

" * Yours very sincerely, 

" * Albert Edward.' " 



ADDRESSES 



The following are Addresses, which present characteristic points : 



POONAH. 

" We beg to approach your Royal Highness with every feeling of loyalty 
and respect, to offer our congratulations on the occasion of your Royal High- 
ness's visit to this city. 

" The blessings of peace and good government which we enjoy have en- 
deared the rule of Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen to all her Indian 
subjects, and we hail the advent of your Royal Highness among us as a new 
proof of the great interest Her Majesty and your Royal Highness take in all 
that affects the well-being of the countless inhabitants of this land. 

" The city of Poonah, though comparatively poor in point of wealth, is 
rich in historical renown. It is the capital of the Deccan and the chief city 
of the great Mahratta nation. Your Royal Highness will see many larger, 
handsomer, and wealthier cities in other parts of India, but will find nowhere 
a more loyal, intelligent, or closely united community than the one which now 
welcomes your Royal Highness through us their representatives. 

" May the God of all nations bless and preserve your Royal Highness 
and Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales, your noble consort, long to 
adorn the proud positions your Royal Highnesses at present occupy, and in 
future years may your Royal Highness look back on your visit to Poonah 
with feelings of kindly remembrance. 

" With the deepest respect we beg to subscribe ourselves your Royal 
Highness's most faithful and loyal servants." 
528 



AHMEDABAD 529 

Ahmedabad. 
{Presented at Bar oda.) 

" We, the Naggarsheth of -Ahmedabad and others, on behalf of ourselves 
and our fellow-citizens, desire to express our feelings of loyalty and devotion 
to her Majesty the Empress of India, and the great pleasure which we feel in 
approaching your Royal Highness as her Representative. 

" Your Royal Highness's short sojourn in Guzerath may have impressed on 
your Royal Highness the fact that this Province is more than any other dis- 
tinguished by a spirit of industry and commercial enterprise ; and that the 
people in general are, in consequence, lovers of peace and liberty, which we 
happily enjoy under the benign sway of her Gracious Majesty the Queen. 
The people of this Province are to be found engaged in trade in distant parts 
of this great country and even beyond it. Hence the language of Guzerath 
is, properly speaking, the commercial language of India. This language is be- 
ing very fast improved and enriched with useful literature, under the auspices 
of the Educational Department and by individual efforts. We are tryin-g to 
establish a College in our city, that the blessings of higher education, derived 
from English literature and European science, may be placed within the reach 
of the people ; and we hope to succeed in our undertaking by the support of 
Government, which is so essential to success. The railway has given an impe- 
tus to its trade, and it has still better prospects before it when the line of the 
North shall connect Guzerath with Rajputana and upper India. The fevers of 
Guzerath, which were once a terror to the population, have been much miti- 
gated by the wise sanitary and medical arrangements made by Government. 

" Our city, which historically is the chief city of Guzerath, as shown by 
numerous ancient architectural relics, is peopled by traders, workmen, and 
artificers, who depend for their support on their own industry and labor, for 
which the cotton, silk,- and gold-thread manufactures afford a great scope. 

" It has unfortunately suffered greatly by the recent floods ; but the whole 
country has shown its sympathy by prompt and generous assistance, and we 
hope it will ere long recover its former prosperity. 

" We pray that God may bring your Royal Highness's travels through 
India to a happy close, and that it may afford your Royal Highness opportu- 
nities of knowing the real state and wants of your future subjects. We are, 
therefore, earnest in the hope that it may be productive of much good to this 
country, and be the means of strengthening between Great Britain and India 
those feelings of cordiality and reciprocal confidence which mutual acquaint- 
ance and knowledge are sure to engender." 
23 34 



530 ADDRESSES. 

SURAT. 
( Presented at Baroda. ) 

" It is our high privilege to approach your Royal Highness with feelings 
of loyalty and devotion, and to offer on behalf of the general community of 
the ancient City of Surat our congratulations on the occasion of your Royal 
Highness's visit to the Province of Gujerat. 

" Whilst we lay no claim to prominence in geographical position, in 
wealth, or in magnificence, we look back with pride to historical traditions 
which begin with the landing at Surat of the first British Ambassador in 
Hindostan, more thar two and a half centuries ago, and we can challenge any 
city in India to show a longer or more intimate connection with the British 
Government. 

" It would not have been in accord with such historical associations, if we 
had allowed this august occasion of a visit to Gujerat of the Heir Apparent 
of Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, under whose benign rule we 
have so long enjoyed peace, prosperity, and the benefits of improved institu- 
ticms, to pass without offering to you personally an assurance of our loyalty 
and devotion to the Throne, and our continual prayers for the welfare of 
your Royal Highness." 



The Mohammedan Literary Society. 

The following remarkable address was presented to Sir Bartle Frere, 
with a view to its being laid before the Prince : 

" The undersigned Members of the Committee of Management of the 
Mohammedan Literary Society of Calcutta, on behalf of the Society compris- 
ing Members of the Mohammedan Community from various parts of India, 
venture to approach your Royal Highness with most cordial and most loyal 
welcome. 

" Of all the many vicissitudes and chances through which, within living 
memory, it has been the lot of our country to pass, the most auspicious occur- 
red on the day on which, under Divinely appointed Wisdom, your Royal 
Highness's August Mother, who rules over a hundred kingdoms and hundreds 
of millions of hearts, undertook the charge of a troubled empire, to give peace 
and hope to the people for ever, and imbue them with the consciousness of 
Royal protection and regard. But however mighty and signal the change, 
now barely a quarter of a century since, which was made on the occasion, the 
external form and machinery of Government remained the same, and only the 
learned amongst us and those busy in public affairs could understand the 
nature as well as extent of the revolution that had taken place. The vast 
bulk of the population, unable to realize an abstract idea of Supreme Power 



THE MOHAMMEDAN LITERARY SOCIETY. 53 1 

diffusing itself through and sustaining all things, hungered for a visible pres- 
ence and embodiment of Royalty ; and the advent of Your Royal Highness 
fulfils the anxious desire, while it proves that the gnat Lady, our Beloved 
Queen, whose goodness and graciousness are over all Her dominions, is ever 
mindful of our welfare, and will never neglect the prayer of loyalty and affec- 
tion. 

" That the enthusiasm evoked by your Royal Highness's visit is nat the 
mere outburst of a holiday sentiment, the reception which your Royal High- 
ness has experienced in other parts of India has no doubt testified. To the 
people of Bengal, and particularly the Mohammedan portion of them, it is- 
fraught with memories which will live in their history to come. The overthrow 
of our Indian Mohammedan Dynasties by the conduct and valor of the British 
Nation is recent enough to have left behind some memories of the glories of 
some of our Moslem rulers. But the justice, humanity, and universal tolera- 
tion of the British Nation have obliterated the past for us ; and, in accord- 
ance with the instincts of our human nature, we longed fof the moment when 
we could, as now, regarding vour Royal Highness as representing our Gra- 
cious Sovereign, look upon the object of our most precious love -and rev- 
erence. 

" It is not permitted to us, who have signed the Address, to speak in our 
collective capacity as politically representing the Mohammedan Community of 
all India or all Bengal ; but each can individually bear witness to the fact that 
in his own immediate will from the highest to the lowest, the inmost recesses of 
Mohammedan feeling have been stirred in a manner in which their depths 
have never been moved before ; that a reanimated sense of personal fealty to 
your Royal Highness's family has dawned over them ; and that your Royal 
Highness, as our future King and Emperor, is the centre of a world of devo- 
tion and allegiance becoming intensified day by day. 

" The special functions assumed to itself by the Mohammedan Literary 
Society is to promote among our co-religionists a knowledge, and also an in- 
clination for the study of the physical sciences of the West. As a means to 
this end, opportunities are seized upon for bringing about occasions of inter- 
course between European gentlemen of scientific repute and members of the 
Mohammedan Community, and thus fostering the germs of mutual good-will 
between the race of rulers and of the ruled. In the furtherance of such a 
cause we respectfully solicit your Royal Highness's countenance and encour- 
agement. 

" However poor and inadequate the expression, we beg your Royal High- 
ness's acceptance of this humble tribute of sincere and lasting homage ; we 
implore the Almighty Ruler of the world to shower down untold blessings 
upon your Royal Highness, and your Royal Highness's illustrious family." 



532 ADDRESSES. 

Agra. 

" The Municipal Commissioners of Agra desire to express fervent loyal- 
ty and devotion to Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, our Sover- 
eign, and our great joy on the occasion of this visit with which your Royal 
. Highness hzK been pleased to honor this city. Within sight of the walls of 
that ancient fortress which bears witness to the magnificence of former Em- 
perors we welcome your Royal Highness, the representative of a Sovereign 
whose Empire extends far beyond the limits of the sway of the mightiest 
monarch ever enthroned at Agra. We gratefully recognize in the justice and 
tolerant impartiality of our Empress Sovereign's rule,imperial qualities which 
especially distinguished the wisest of the House of Timour — the founder of 
this city which welcomes you to-day — Emperor Akbar. The joy and pride 
which we now feel would have been completed had it been possible for her 
Royal Highness, the Princess of Wales, to honor us with her gracious presence 
on this auspicious occasion. We believe and trust that the tour of your Royal 
Highness through India will tend to draw closer the ties which bind her to 
England, and will be a source of benefit to this country as well as of pleasure 
and interest to yourself." 

The Native Christians of the Punjaub. 

*' We, your Royal Highness's humble servants, approach your august 
presence. We do not represent any great State or city, but we are a little 
flock gathered, by the grace of God, in the course of about thirty years * out of 
every kindred, and tongue, and nation ' of this Province ; a flock which by the 
power of God is increasing day by day. 

" We rejoice exceedingly that your Royal Highness has honored this 
country with your presence ; for, as subjects of Her Most Gracious Majesty 
the Queen, in addition to that prosperity which all the people of this country 
derive from Her Majesty's Government, we have received even greater bless- 
ings under British rule, namely, those spiritual blessings which are imperish- 
able and far better than this world's treasures. 

" God has now given us a most welcome opportunity of offering to the 
Heir Apparent to the Throne of this country a tribute of our devotion and 
respect, and of assuring your Royal Highness how deeply we feel indebted to 
those Christian people, of whose labors and self-denial we are the fruit. 
We have been called to God by foreign missionaries, who, in giving us 
spiritual instruction and support, have displayed an energy and endurance 
which the Christians of India in generations to come will not forget. For 
although this Government does not in any way interfere with religious belief, 
still Christian people have found under British rule an opportunity of pro- 
claiming in this country the Word of God, which has been the means of great 



RUNJEET SINGS MAUSOLEUM. 533 

blessing to other lands, and by which the darkness of this land is being grad- 
ually removed, and light and purity are being diffused. 

" With great pleasure and thankfulness, we beg that your Royal High- 
ness will be graciously pleased to accept copies of the Sacred Scriptures in 
Urdu, Persian, Punjabi, and Afghani, which have been translated by foreign 
missionaries for our benefit; and we pray that the rule of Her Most Gracious 
Majesty the Queen, whose piety and holy life are an example to her subjects, 
may be established and prolonged, and also that the Divine protection may 
ever be vouchsafed to your Royal Highness, that you may be enriched with 
heavenly blessings, and in all things glorify God through our Lord Jesus 
Christ." 

Lahore. 

" We beg humbly to express our thanks that it has pleased the Heir 
Apparent of the Throne to honor with his presence this distant portion of 
Her Majesty's dominions ; for we see in this auspicious visit, following that of 
his Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, another proof of the warm interest 
taken in our welfare by our Gracious Sovereign and the members of the Royal 
Family. 

" Though distant from the Capital of England, and among the youngest 
sons of her Great Empire, we claim, in common with our countrymen, a fore- 
most rank among the loyal subjects of the Crown ; for, placed at the north- 
western door of India, on the borders of regions untraversed by Europeans, 
and mindful of our own past history, we are in a position to appreciate even 
more than others the benefits of British Rule. 

"For those great benefits we hope ever to evince in acts, as we now ex- 
press in words, the gratitude of a faithful people." 



The Managers of Runjeet Sing's Mausoleum. 

" We, the Managers of the Mausoleum, beg to approach your Royal High- 
ness with feelings of the deepest loyalty and offer our cordial welcome for the 
visit paid to the edifice, consecrated to the relics of the departed Royalty of 
this country. We never expected such an unusual honor, ever since the 
memoi-able visit of his Grace, the Duke of Edinburgh. It is, however, re- 
alized. We rejoice in it, and once more pay our homage to your Royal High- 
ness for the honor once done. 

" It is very perperous for the Commons, and we are really immaculated 
to hav; a personal appearance of a Royal Prince. We have nothing to adore 
our Lord 41{44I^ the Emperor, according to Hindoo Sastras Bhugbutgellah 
II Section 27 verse ffTT»n^"«TrT f^m 'Nurranuncho Nuradheephann,' 
also Adage ^-q^^^^l ^rPT^^TT Delhisuro bah Jugodisoro and in Mo- 



534 ADDRESSES. 

hammedan's ^r -VIS Zoolilah, i. e. the Emperor is a shadow of Almighty. 
This Mausoleum was erected by the Raja Khurk Sing, son of Maharaja Run- 
jeet Sing, in the year 1839, nearly thirty-six years ago. 

" Though Lahore is far inferior to other Presendencies in almost every 
respect which your Royal Highness visited, the fidelity and loyalty which we 
feel warm in our bosom will for ever remain unchanged for your Royal 
Highness and Her Majesty the Queen of Britain. We sincerely pray for 
health, happiness, and safe journey of your Royal Highness through this 
country, and remain, 

" "With the greatest respect your Royal Highness's 

" Most obedient and devoted subjects and humble servants, 
"Nursing Prosand Roy {for the Grinthiansj. 
" 2ijth January, 1876."- 

The Municipal Council of Kandy. 

'* The prosperous condition of the Kandyan country, the peace and se- 
curity which every Native homestead, scattered throughout this important 
Province, is now privileged to enjoy — the material and social advancement of 
the people — the contentment which is apparent among the different sections 
of the community — are, it is our pleasing duty to acknowledge, but a few of 
the beneficial results which have marked the British rule in this Island. 

" The introduction of wise and beneficent laws, and the continued efforts 
which have been made to promote the interests of all classes, have tended to 
foster feelings of loyalty and attachment to the Government, which we feel 
confident will be strengthened by this visit of your Royal Highness." 



The Talukdars of Oudh. 

" We, the Talukdars of Oudh, as faithful subjects of the Empress of In- 
dia, most humbly and dutifully offer to your Royal Highness, the illustrious 
representative of the Royal Family, a cordial welcome to this remote corner 
of her Majesty's realm. That your Royal Highness, after long travels by land 
and sea, should have deigned to honor us this evening with your Royal 
Highness's presence, makes our hearts proud as well as thankful ; and the 
present occasion, when our eyes have been gladdened by the sight of'our future 
Emperor, will ever remain with us a fond and honored tradition. 

" Although we have owed allegiance to the British Crown for the com- 
paratively brief period of a score of years, we can assure your Royal Highness 
that our fealty is as firmly established as if it had been handed down to us 
through a long succession of dynasties ; and we humbly trust your Royal 
Highness will convey to our august Empress the assurance that the Talukdars 



POETICAL ADDRESSES. 535 

of Oudh, though the last to become her Majesty's subjects in India, are second 
to none in the sincerity to their loyalty. 

" Nay more, your Royal Highness, we know that our loyalty to the Brit- 
ish Government is both reasonable and right ; for it is to the benign rule of 
your Royal Mother that we owe the security of our rights and vested interests, 
as well as the permanence of our position, dignity, and rank, as the landed 
aristocracy of Oudh. 

" At the same time, we assure your Royal Highness that we are grateful 
to the British Government for its efforts to improve the general condition of 
the people of the Province. We are thankful that reforms are from time to 
time introduced into every branch of the Administration, — not abruptly but 
gradually ; and with that due regard to ancient rights and time-honored cus- 
toms which alone can produce a useful and lasting reform. 

" We would further entreat your Royal Highness to convey to your Royal 
Consort our humble assurance that, though the boundless ocean prevents us 
from laying the tribute of our devotion at her Highness.'s feet, it is none the less 
certain that the majesty of her presence reigns supreme in our hearts. 

" In conclusion, we humbly approach your Royal Highness with this mod- 
est tribute of our allegiance and gratitude, which we fondly hope your Royal 
Highness will deign to accept as a fit emblem of the fealty of the Talukdars 
of Oudh to the British Crown." 



POETICAL ADDRESSES. 

The hyperbole of Oriental poetry appears very ludicrous when translated 
by those who give not the inner meaning, but only the bald dictionary correl- 
atives of the words of the poet. It is not for the purpose of ridiculing what 
may be a very creditable production that I quote a few lines of a Sanscrit 
poem, by Raghunath Rao Vithal Vinchoorkar, described as " First class Sir- 
dar ; Companion of the most exalted Order of the Star of India ; Raja Oomdut 
Oolmulk. Bahadoor." entitled " The Indian Journey of the Prince of Wales," 
printed at a native press in Bombay, and dedicated to the Prince. The trans- 
lator was assisted by the Professor of Sanscrit at the Elphinstone College. 
The poem con^mences with a eulogium on England as a " famous country on 
the terrestrial globe which, endowed with prosperity, shines verily in the 
north-western corner with a heavenly glory. Whose brave things, like the 
autumnal suns, delighted their Padma-like friends (Padma being a species of 
lotus, blooming in sunlight), and brought on a pallor to the host of their Kum- 
uda-like enemies (Kumuda being a species of lotus blowing open in moonlight) 



536 EULOGIUM ON ENGLAND. 

by their ray-like hands. Whose forces, consisting of numberless ships, mov- 
ing on the bottomless sea, cause her enemies to sink by their very sight in the 
ocean of the world, in half a moment." We are told that the sea, " inaccessi- 
ble in consequence of frightful animals with cave-like mouths, swimming with- 
in its bowels, and dreadful to look at, because of waves as high as mountains," 
is the fort within which this country dwells. London is compared to a beauti- 
ful woman, shining with ornaments, on the banks of the Thames, " where 
shine very lofty palaces, various factories, libraries containing books stored by 
renowned scholars, charity houses, and an observatory built of marble ; lovely 
mountains and pleasant rivers, trees and creepers full of fruits and flowers, 
and very delightful forests, abounding in beasts of every variety." The gene- 
alogy of the Prince is next given, beginning with " a King named George,who 
was of good deportment, like a shining pearl," and who, by his "white 
and fair conduct made his subjects red and devoted." A foot-note tells 
us that in the original there is a very pretty play upon words, which I presume 
cannot be turned into English. India is described as having been " enjoyed 
with violence by intoxicated, wicked, and oppressive kings," and as having 
taken shelter under the great Queen, " seemg whose astonishing beauty, peo- 
ple formerly desirous to see Rati have slackened their wish, and are content 
with Her Majesty, who, seated on the throne, with the lamps of the diadem 
gems of tributary Princes whirling round her lotus-like feet, is worthy of be- 
ing looked at by all people, like Royal splendor incarnate on earth." After 
an outburst of praise for all she has done in the spread of science, and of all 
the arts that promote the good of men, the poet says : " She levies taxes for 
our prosperity, dispels all our fears, and cherishes us with affection: Victoria 
is therefore our mother-like Queen." The cause of the Prince's journey is 
tersely put. " Disputes often take place in Parliament respecting the real state 
of the Queen's subjects. Some say, 'Her Hindoo subjects are poor; their 
miseries are great ; ' others say, ' It is false.' Was it, then, to decide the matter 
that the Queen sent her own son ? " The question is not answered by the poet ; 
but he evidently infers that some such object was at the bottom of the journey. 
He asks, " Did the Queen send out her eldest son at once, because conscious 
that it is of advantage to inquire whether officers appointed by herself act in 
conformity with the rules laid down for the protection of her subjects.? India 
is well worth such a visit. The best of countries ; the fertile land where gold 
and gems are found ; the inhabitants of which were in olden times versed in 
arts, and rich in learning, and which became an object of desire to Western 
kings in consequence of its wealth," The arrival at Bombay is next set forth : 
" When the Queen's son set his foot on land from the barge, the terrestrial 
globe seemed to be shaken by the thundering of guns." The Princes re- 
ceived him from " his palace-like ship," and bowed low when they saw " the 
person of the son of the paramount Sovereign." " The Queen's representative 
appointed to protect India "supported the Prince, and'the people, "with their 



A WELCOME ADDRESS. 53/ 

lotus-like eyes dilated through delight," saw him step into the middle of the 
carriage. " Then, as the sun sank down, the moon, in the shape of the Prince by 
his charming lustre, rising, blew open the Kumuda-lotuses of the eyes of people 
in Bombay." An enumeration of all the blessings which the Queen has be- 
stowed on India — " the telegraph, which carries intelligence swiftly " ships, 
" carriages moved by fire," '* hospitals for the poor," machines for printing 
newspapers, libraries, " the pursuit of female education," trade, " unrestrained 
acquisition of freedom ; " " travelling unattended with trouble," and " roads 
free from the fear of bandits." " Of Her through whose grace " all this is 
obtained ** this Prince is a son, and certain to be our King. He is learned; 
the appreciator of merits ; benevolent ; bountiful ; the very ocean of kindness ; 
the hater of the crowd of wicked people ; modest, just, and the lover of truth. 
Long live this Prince, our Lord ! adorned with so many excellent qualities." 
He is described as " the water-basin for the growing creeper of Politics ; the 
ocean of the rising moon of genteelness ; the mountain on which grow the 
shining gems of virtues ; the arani of the fire of valor ; the pleasure hall for 
the lovely maiden of knowledge ; the wearer of the true ornaments — the ruby 
of honesty and the abode of real joy." He is '* the young paramount Sovereign" 
giving " the honor due to each of the subordinate Princes " at Bombay, Mad- 
ras, Calcutta, and in the "city of Delhi, of world-wide fame, once the scat of 
great Mohammedan rulers." Viewing at Delhi " the large array of troops dis- 
played by the Commander-in-Chief, he, with all his suite, sank instantly in the 
ocean of wonder. Having thus seen what is worthy, and pleased himself, and 
pleased the people, he set off for England. All chiefs, whether pure Kshatrias, 
Brahmins, Vaisias, Sudras, Mohammedans, Buddhas, or Jains, differing in 
caste as they do, unite in praying for ever to the Almighty for the good of the 
Prince in forms proper to their several faiths." 

The Superintendent of State Education in Indore, Raojee Wasudeva 
Tullu, M. A., wrote " a Welcome Address " : — 

" All hail ! Victoria's son, thrice welcome hail ! 
With hearts full joyous, we thy presence greet. 
Hail ! youthful Prince ! we now ourselves avail 
To speak our hearts, with love and joy replete. 

" As when the Lord of Stars, in days of yore, 
First from the deep to azure sky arose, 
Thus, from a land ten thousand miles and more, 
Thy visit charms all eyes, that joy disclose." 

Remembering how, that when the Prince has left, the Maharaja remains 
behind, the Superintendent of State Education pays a delicate compliment 
or two to his immediate master : — 
23* 



53^ SPEECHES. 

i 

" In blessed Malwa rich, the first is Indore land, 
Which now is graced by England's future king ; 
Here rules TuKOji wise. Let friendship's band 
In close alliance these two powers bring. 

" Sprung from her lineage is TuKOji wise, 

Who sees his subjects pleased, himself is pleased; 
So too, thou. Prince, are pleased in thy allies. 

When they from care and troubles are truly eased." 

The poet in the verse alludes to the descent of Holkar from Ahaly4 " a 
Queen divine, a unique Hindoo Princess, Nonpareil." 



Speech of the Maharaja of Puttiala. — (Page 389.) 

"January 24th. 

"This occasion on which your Royal Highness, our future Emperor, 
and the most beloved son of our gracious, glorious, and illustrious Sov- 
ereign, the Queen, has been pleased to condescend to accept this my 
humble entertainment, and thus to bestow a very high honor on this State,, 
is a source of great pleasure and pride to the Puttiala family. 

" The family of Puttiala is very proud of this, that seventy-three years ago, 
since friendly relations have been made with the British Government, it has 
by the series of its continued, long, and uninterrupted services, attained an 
especial predominance, distinction, and conspicuousness over all the other 
Native States of Hindoostan, and has, owing to this, always gained the favors 
and kindness of the British Government, which, it is hoped, will always 
be continued on this faithful family. 

" This place, known by the name of Rajpoorat, although it has lately 
been reckoned as one of the gates of the capital of Puttiala, is not a very 
large city, and is very insignificant in itself. It does not pretend to have any 
very large ancient buildings or anything of historical importance, so as to at- 
tract the attention and curiosity of your Royal Highness, whose condescension 
therefore, in making time, in order to grant me the honor of entertaining your 
Royal Highness at such an insignificant place as this, is a vivid proof of that spe- 
cial favor of Government with which this State has always been treated. I there- 
fore avail myself of this opportunity to offer my sincerest and most heartfelt 
thanks to your Royal. Highness for the same. 

"These few tents in which this poor entertainmeht is offered to your 
Royal Highness are not fit for the Royal entertainment of a Royal guest, but 
there is an adage in this country which is very appropriate here — 



SPEECHES. 539 

" ' Sudar hir ja ke nushinud sudar ast.' 

That is, ' That wherever the Chief is, it is the chief place.' 

"This aight will Ue a memorable event in the history of the Puttiala 
family, and the thought of my being the first of the family in having the hon- 
or of receiving our future Emperor in my territory is very pleasing. 

'• 1 am well convinced that your Royal Highness and her Majesty the 
Queen are fully aware of the services, loyalty, and devotion of our family, 
and if they are ever required in any dark emergency, which God forbid, I am 
ready to come forward with all I have, sacrificing even my life. I earnestly 
hope that the feelings of loyalty and faithfulness which I have received as a 
heritage from my forefathers will go down to my successors, and that they 
will always take pride in them. 

" Before concluding this my humble address with the fervent prayer for 
the long life and sound health of her Gracious Majesty the Queen, and all the 
members of 'the Royal family, and for the uninterrupted continuance of the 
British rule in India, which has been full of great and many blessings to us, 
I propose to you gentlemen present in this assembly, this toast, the good 
health of his Royal Highness." 



The King of Portugal's Speech. — (Page 498.) 

" Ce n'est pas la premiere fois qu'un prince anglais vient en Portugal, 
mais c'est pourtant la premiere qu'une visite officielle a lieu et je la considere 
comme la preuve evidente des bons rapports entre I'Angleterre et le Portugal. 
Je m'en felicite de ce que pendant mon regne cette visite ait lieu. Je m'en 
felicite parce que c'est une visite de I'Angleterre au Portugal. Je m'en felici- 
te parce que c'est la preuve que c'est ce prince, qui, un jour, portera la couronne 
d'Angleterre qui vient au nom de la Reine et de son pays donner I'assurance 
aux traites qui nous lient comme allies depuis plusieurs siecles. Je m'en 
felicite, parce que deux peuples qui ont les memes principespolitiques, jaloux 
tous les deux de leur independance et pour qui lemot patrie est une verite et 
non un mensonge, se donnent I'accolade fi-aternelle de deux peuples libres 
dans leurs institutions et egalement identifies avec leurs dynasties constitution- 
nelles. En saluant Votre Altesse, il y a trois santes que je ne veux pas se'parer : 
Dieu garde la Reine, votre gracieuse et auguste mere. Qu'il protege le Prince de 
Galles, et veille sur la nation Anglaise." 



THE NATIVE PRESS 



There is in each Presidency an officer with functions corresponding, in 
some degree, to those of the Chief of the Press Bureaux in foreign countries, 
whose business it is to furnish the Government with a weekly /re«> of the 
articles in the Native newspapers relating to foreign and domestic policy, 
administration, internal affairs, &c., and to direct attention to complaints 
and misstatements, but he has no power of control or censure. These 
reports are " confidential,'' and are only sent to the Governor and the 
higher officials of each Presidency. The tone of some Native papers is so 
very hostile to the Government, and to the magistracy generally, as to excite 
uneasiness, and to invite the consideration of measures of repression. 
The younger and less experienced members of the Civil Service are much 
in favor of a vigorous censorship and of stringent press laws, whilst they 
assert, at the same time, that the Native press has small influence, and 
that no one should pay attention to it. Those who advocate repression lose 
sight of, or undervalue, the immense benefit to Government of learning what 
the people are saying about their rulers. I here give some translations of 
articles in Native papers published in Bombay, Madras, &c : — 



*' Vedanta Nirnaya Pathricai" (Tamil newspaper), dated 
i<jtk November, 1875. 

" His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales set out from England on the 
nth October, 1875, to visit India. This was ordered by her Majesty Queen 
Victoria, and by the most Honorable the Parliament of England. It will 
ever be memorable, by honors and amusements, in all the places where he 
will stay during his voyage or journey. He went over to France, where in 
the capital, the Government and the inhabitants paid him respect, and 

S40 



TAMIL. 541 

honored him as the great Prince of Great Britain. When the steamer 
Serapis touched at Aden, the chief members of the Government of the place 
and other officials and people, congregated near the sea-shore, where the 25th 
Regiment of Infantry was placed as Guard of honor .nd escorted him with 
Royal Honors, chanting ' The God Save the Queen.' An Address was then 
read to him by Kavoojee Dui Shaw, a nobleman of the place, which was ' 
answered by the Prince. And then, on the 8th of November, the Seraph 
arrived at Bombay, where also a great deal of honor and special respect was 
paid to the Prince. If convenient, we shall advert to this subject in our next 
Issue. 



" Vedanta Nirnaya.'''' 

" The steamer Serapis was in sight at the Port of Bombay on the 8th ultimo. 
Three guns were fired to denote the arrival of the Prince. All the people 
of the city, who were expecting since a month, rejoiced exceedingly. A 
salute of twenty-one guns was fired solemnly from the men-of-war. The rays 
of the morning sun appeared on the waters of the sea, and shone like golden 
beams. In all the ships in the Roads colors and flags were hoisted. At 
which time males and females came in dense crowds to the sea-shore, and 
were quite taken up by the scene, where there was a great clamor of ships 
borne by the hands of the sea maidens. Then, about half-past four o'clock 
in the afternoon. Lord Northbrook, the Governor-General of India, and Sir 
Philip Wodehouse, the Governor of Bombay, together with the chief officials, 
went up to the Serapis, and visited the Prince with respect ; after which the 
Prince, attended by the above nobles, landed from the Serapis, and, walking gen- 
tly, got up in the middle of an embellished building near the Beach. There were 
high seats prepared on each side, so as to contain nearly five hundred persons. 
In the main road were spread superior carpets. Near that building stood the 
Regiment of European Fusiliers in parade and paid the due honors. The 
band played ' God save the Queen.' Immediately her Royal son, standing 
in the midst of the assembly, advanced' two feet forward, when an Address, 
prepared by the Committee of the City Decoration, was read by Dada Bahee 
Baheramjee, which was then put into a fine covered case, and was presented 
into the hands of our Queen's son. To which the Prince replied properly. 
Again the Shahzadahhad interviews with every native King with much pleas- 
ure, and when he was going in his Royal carriage towards the Government 
House, Parsee maids, well dressed, met him in the road, and poured showers 
off flowers at his feet, and sprinkled odorous scents. Being struck with aston- 
ishment, the Prince halted a while, stooped his head, and paid them his respects. 
And then, going along in procession through the decorated streets, he was 
dropped at the Government House. He went, after a few days, to Poonah and 



542 THE NATIVE PRESS. 

Baroda, in the Bombay Presidency, where also the respective, inhabitants wel- 
comed him, and he had the pleasure of witnessing many sights of wrestling 
and wild-beast fighting. He was much pleased with one Pilanteen, who 
played upon a rope, or very cleverly walked upon it, suspended by the power 
of steam-machine. We are now obliged to stop, as it will take too much 
space if we want to relate all." 



From the " Andhra Bhasha SanjavanV (Telugu), Madras, 
13th November, 1875. 

" We are glad to hear that his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has 
resolved upon subscribing for and seeing the English newspapers of India, 
during his stay here. We are of opinion that this is beneficial, but we regret 
to observe that the vernacular papers have not been fortunate enough to be 
blessed with the Royal glance.* Perhaps his Royal Highness might have 
been under the impression that the opinions and sentiments of the teeming 
millions of India could be understood through Anglo-Indian papers. We 
consider this as quite erroneus; most of the Anglo-Indian papers are con- 
ducted by Englishmen. No doubt there are some English papers under the 
direction and editorship of the natives; but they generally follow the purely 
English papers. Thus, those papers give expression rather more to what 
Englishmen think of the natives than to what the natives think themselves. 
Is it possible to grasp native opinion from such papers ? Whatever may be 
the firm footing of the British in India, still this country will go by the name 
of Hindoostan rather than by the name Anglostan. Differences of opinion 
are as inevitable as differences of color and caste. Is it not on account of 
this that our Government are subscribing for and paying attention to the 
sentiments expressed in the vernacular papers of this Presidency. Conse- 
quently, it is desirable for our Prince to acquaint himself with the opinions 
of the Natives as the Government are doing. Although it may be asserted 
that the aim of our Prince, in subscribing for those papers, is to patronize 
his people, and not to know their opinions ; still are not Indian vernaculars, 
languages like his own ? Are not the Hindoos, equally with the English, 
acceptable to our Prince ? Can the ruled be overlooked by the rulers as 
foreigners ? Have not British rulers been ever justly famed for treating all 
their subjects equally and impartially t Under these circumstances we most 
humbly solicit the great generosity of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, 
who is an ocean of intelligence, to subscribe for and favor with a glance 
the vernacular as well as the Anglo-Indian papers." 

* It is not given to every one to understand Telugu. 



TAMIL. 543 

*^ yerida-i-Rezgan" (a newspaper started in Madras by the Mohammedan 
community, expressly for the Tour of the Prince), i6th December. 

*' His Royal Highness the Prince arrived at Madras, and the.people, long 
expecting, now have the means of representing the pleasure attending his 
Royal Highness's joyful arrival. We are unable to write in his praise ; he 
possesses a thousand merits, and we are unable to explain one tenth of them. 
The people of this place were in dark, and by the arrival of the Most Noble 
the Prince, the light has spread out, and his lustre is shone on them as a 
rising star throws his light on the earth. Praise be to (Allah) God, who has 
given us such a joyful day ! " 



The same, 22d December. 

" For a few days Madras had the pleasure in greeting the joyful arrival 
in the happy town ; but now our Most Noble Prince has left our shores, we 
see nothing but dulness and quietness. For this separation we feel very sor- 
ry. If it had been in our power, we would not have allowed him to depart." 



From " Veltikodegone " (Tamil newspaper), \Zth December. 

" The precious son of her Majesty, the Queen, his Royal Highness the 
Prince of Wales, born by the blessing of the Happy One, the transcendant 
Holy Height, whose beginning, middle, and end are incomprehensible, ap- 
proached the Perambore Railway Station at 7 A. M. on Monday last, when 
the officers of the Railway Company, who awaited to receive him there, pour- 
ed over the Prince a sht)wer of various sores of odorous flowers, such as lilies, 
rose, jessamine, lotus, and the like, sprinkled on him rose-water, after, and 
other essences of odor, which were kept filled up in different trays of gold 
set with precious stones, paid him all possible respect, and taking hold of 
him by his hand (vivid as the crimson color of lotus), delightfully inducted 
him into a well-decorated apartment where the floor was covered with carpets 
of various colors interwoven with gold. Within about half-an-hour, after hav- 
ing visited the workshop and other places and having put on a Royal robe, 
he got into the train and approached the Roypooram Station at about a 
quarter-past eight. The ornamental decoration and workmanship at the Rail- 
way Station were such as to ravish the spectator's sight. His Grace (the 
Governor) the Duke of Buckingham, the Chief Justice of the High Court, the 
Protestant Bishop, the Right Rev. Dr. Fennelly, Bishop of the Roman Catho- 
lics, the Government Secretaries, and others, as well as the Native Prince-s 
and Rajahs of the five different soils, and others, having wished him a long 



544 THE NATIVE PRESS. 

reign, cheerfully welcomed the Prince, who in return paid them respect by 
raising up his hand of crimson color. By this time the military officers fired 
the guns. All those and every one of the spectators, who waited with inex- 
pressible anxiety the whole previous night, with their eyes wide awake, expos- 
ing themselves to the fulgent and frigid rays of the moon, as well as the 
darting rays of the morning sun, fearless of the dangerous consequences of 
the deed, no sooner heard the report of the guns than they got up and stood 
with their hands folded and their mouths closed, in the fashion of Oriental 
loyalty usually shown to Sovereigns. 

" However diffident we may feel as to our powers to express the excellent 
manner in which the Thumboo Chetty Street, commencing at the terminus up 
to the Madras Government House, was decorated, yet we shall try our best 
endeavors to remove that, as well as the feebleness of our pen, and describe 
the same as far as practicable. 

" The diffidence is entirely owing to the extreme degree of our inability to 
the task, since the Alldishasha himself (the Seven-Hooded Dragon subter- 
ranean supporter and the Divine Commentator of all the Gravimaties) has 
gone down feeling rather too shy ; as this grandeur is far above his powers of 
expression, he is not adequate to the task. In streets on both sides, colored 
flags were hoisted ; artificial groves of trees, such as coca, palmyra, date, and 
plantains, were exhibited, so thickly that they appeared to touch the ethereal 
regions. 

" Heroic military officers and vehicles of Hindu Kings moved on in Royal 
procession. To feast their eyes with the colors (flags) on the Railway b *M- 
ing the people, conscious of their unworthy vision or sight, attempted to . -i- 
form penance for better eyes than theirs. There was a green canopy set up 
within the boundary limit of the Railway Terminus, and it presented a super- 
human workmanship. On the front of each of the pandals there was an in- 
scription of the British national anthem, * God Save the Queen.' In the 
pandal there was hung an angelic relique which showered on his Royal 
Highness a profusion of flowers. The Prince, whose face was attractive as 
the moon, being pleased at this, smiled. Immediately Ramasaumy Chettiar 
offered his loyal respects to the Prince, who returned his thanks. From the 
Fort Esplanade up to the Government House the green pandals were all so ex- 
cellently beautified, like her Majesty's Windsor Castle, near that water foun- 
tain,. in England, presenting a view of recreation. Orchards from Wallajah 
Bridge up to Munro's statue, there were on both sides raised-up benches 
prepared for the students of all the schools of Madras, whose numbers 
defied calculation. A portion of them chanted songs of congratulations to 
the Prince and praises of the Deity. Then the Prince stopped his Royal 
vehicle a little, and with pleasure listened to melodious numbers. 

" His Royal Highness observed the carefulness and watchfulness of the 
respective schoolmasters by the side of their students, and was indescribabJ^' 



ooRDoo. 545 

satisfied with their devotional attention to their duty. The side benches pre- 
pared for the officials and others were not enough for their number, 
crores and crores of them standing under the powerful sun, unmindful of the 
beams of the day-maker, like the blind praying for eyes who have realized 
their wish ; when it was quarter after nine the Prince entered into the Govern- 
ment House. The multitudes, expressing doubt if there was ever such a 
scene beheld, returned home. On that evening his Royal Highness went 
to the Guindy Park Government House ; the following day, being the day of 
his late father's anniversary, the Prince kept at home at Guindy." 



" Oomdatool Akbar'^ (Oordoo Paper), 20th December. 

" By the blessing of Almighty, His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales 
arrived at Madras, and the people of this place consider it a very fortunate 
day in their life. In place of showers of rain, they are pleased with showers 
of pleasure ; the beauties of flowers of the garden and trees are in no way to 
be compared with the pleasures derived by the arrival of our Noble Prince. 
We offer our prayer to Almighty God, that the Prince may arrive safely at 
his destination. 

" After his Royal highness had witnessed the last General Military Re- 
view near the Government House, sitting under the gold, shining, triple- 
crowned umbrella, supported by the pillar set with carbuncle, diamond, crys- 
tal, cat's eye, emerald, lapis lazuli, and blue-gem, he was much transported 
with joy. He was again overwhelmed in the ocean of delight by the exhibi- 
tion of fireworks, which laughed to scorn our Indian fireworks. The skilful 
European workmen, who came from England for the purpose of preparing 
these powder combinations, were able in the secrets and mysteries of nature 
to change from minute to minute, for more than three hours, the aspect of the 
blue sky into crimson-red, emerald-green, saffron. Crores of people were 
thunderstruck, and imagined that the sidereal heaven itself has been trans- 
lated into the earth, and crores again uttered cries that the stars were melted 
and poured down. Crores put forth the opinion that the bushy rockets dashed 
upwards to measure the distance between the celestial and terrestrial orbs. 
In like manner the fireworks exhibited on Serapis^ and on the Body-Guard 
ships, were vieing with ^ach other. As these were observed to dive into and 
emerge from the sea — sight quite novel to people like ourselves — we stood 
with our eyes wide awake, so as not to wink even." 

35 



546 THE NATIVE PRESS. 

From the '■'■ Andhra Bhasha Saiijavani,''^ (Telugu), Madras, nth January, 

1876. 

*' From the commencement of the British rule in India, to the time of the 
arrival of his Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh and his Royal High- 
ness the Prince of Wales to this land, Viceroys and Governors of -the different 
Presidencies acted as if they were British Sovereigns. Even the Collectors 
and Judges of the several districts and the British Residents and Political 
Agents, behaved themselves (towards the natives of India and Native 
Princes and Chiefs) in a similar manner. This was owing to the neglect 
which the Royal Family of Great Britain, who are the sole masters of India, 
showed towards this country by not visiting it. Not only did those gentlemen 
look upon themselves as British Kings, but even the people at large were 
under the same impression. Such being the case, how could loyalty find a 
place in the breast o^ our people "i His Royal Highness the Duke of Edin- 
burgh visited the Indian shores. It was through this that such a thing as loyaHf^y 
sprouted up on the Indian soil. By the present visit of his Royal Highness 
the Prince of Wales, the plant of Loyalty has struck deep root here. The 
people at large are now in transports of joy, at being able to see with their 
own eyes the son of their Queen, nay, their future Emperor. Also they are 
full of hopes of being favored with similar visits at frequent intervals here- 
after. Just as tortoises, in the fable, boast themselves of having the moon as 
their King, similarly the people at large hitherto had to speak of some great 
Queen in an unknown and distant land, as their Protectress. They had to 
share the sorrow of being ruled by representatives and servants of their 
Sovereign, as in the Mohammedan times. They had the dissatisfaction and 
grief of never being able to feast their eyes with a glance at their Sovereign. 
But all these disappointments and griefs have now become things of the past. 
The Native Rajas and Chiefs, without being any longer the poor victims of 
Government servants, are full of ever-progressing joy and well-merited loy- 
alty, because they have now the honor and happiness of seeing with their 
own eyes and conversing freely with their British Prince. It is a matter produc- 
tive of great benefit (both to the rulers and the ruled) that our Prince is 
becoming personally acquainted with native Princes, and is charming their 
hearts with deserved respect and honor. 

" As another result of this visit, many of the chief 'servants of the Govern- 
ment will, casting aside their (usual) arrogance and superciliousness, behave 
themselves with humility, and act with the full knowledge of the fact that the 
Native Rajas and Maharajas, Chiefs, &c., are more respectable than they, and 
that, after all, they are but servants. They will henceforward conduct them- 
selves in harmony with the respect and honor due to the Native Princes, 
and the native community at large. These Princes and the natives of India 
will act with gratitude and loyalty towards the British Government, which 



THE TANJORE QUEEN. 547. 

protects them voluntarily without being entreated (as the eyelid does the eye). 
We thiiiic that it will be by far the most beneficial thing both to India and the 
JBritish rulers, if our Prince of Wales, the heir to the British Crown, is pleased 
to become a High Court of Appeal over the Governors-General and Governors 
of the various Presidencies, especially as his Royal Highness is now becom- 
ing personally acquainted with India and its wants. 

" In the second place, we are very glad to find our Prince invested with 
full authority by our Great Queen, to confer titles on the deserving. We need 
hardly say that we rejoice in the fact of the Prince judiciously exercising that 
authority now. But we feel it incumbent upon us to say a few words on one 
point, with reference to the investiture of titles. We do not see any reason 
why we should keep our opinion in the background. We shall then candidly 
set it before our readers. It is that all those titles which have been conferred 
till now have been bestowed upon Maharajas, Rajas, high Government ofiicials, 
Counsellors, wealthy folks, and, in fact, on principal paid servants of the 
Government, and on these only. But no titular dignity has become the lot of 
praiseworthy lovers of learning and pursuers of poetry. Considering deeply, 
are not great pundits and poets deserving of honor from Kings ? Is it proper 
that such men should be thrown into utter oblivion } Will not the wealth of 
learning and blessing of poetry shine perpetually, conferring great happiness, 
pleasure and honor, not only upon its lovers, but also upon all those who have 
a special knowledge of the language, without becoming the property of for- 
eigners ? Therefore, it will be a great boon both to the public and to these 
literate poets, if our wise British Prince is pleased to bestow upon these titles 
as they deserve. By thus honoring pundits and poets, our Prince will be 
loudly praised by all as a great connoisseur and patron of learning. " 

The following are translations by Natives of the accounts of visits and 
return visits in Madras : - 



"The Tanjore Queen. 

" This Royal Lady was not able to come in time to meet his Royal High- 
ness the first day, but she came in a special train on the next day, in company 
with the Moplay Dorai (son-in-law), and the Princess's Consort, in the Sabha 
Mantapam (the Royal Court), the next Thursday, in the afternoon. The 
Prince received them with all joy and respect. As the Tanjore Lady should 
not be seen by male members of the assembly, they let down a curtain between 
her and the Prince. Behind the curtain with the Queen were standing three 
ladies. When the Queen had put out her golden hands, the Prince with 
pleasure shook hands with her. After a few seconds, the Queen put out her 
hands, holding a golden belt, on which his Highness's name was inscribed, 
which the Prince received, and thanked the Queen. Then the Moplay Dorai 
(Sakaram Saib) spoke with the Prince for a little while ; after which the Maha 



548 NATIVE REPORTS. 

Ranee put her hand out again, when the Prince, giving her a gem-set ring, on 
which his name was engraved — '■Albert Edward'' — shook hands with her. 
There is nobody competent to estimate the value of the workmanship of the 
ring. The Prince presented to the Tanjore Queen a picture or a portrait of his 
Royal Mother, Queen Victoria. After a few more words, the Royal guests took 
leave of each other. When the Maha Ranee came in, thirteen guns were 
fired, and when she left, another salute of thirteen guns was fired." 



"Rajah of Cochin. 

"The Prince of Wales, with his retinue, Bartle Frere, &c., proceeded to 
the residence of the Rajah of Cochin, on the Thursday evening, at 4^ o'clock^ 
to give him a return visit. The Rajah stood at his gate, and receiving the 
Prince with all respect, took him to the Royal Home, and after a few 
words of etiquette, gave him the following presents : — A silver plate,, 
made very exquisitely by six artisans, and ear-rings and neck ornaments and 
hand ornaments; and one pair of gold bangles, made by a goldsmith of 
Kusumba, light-red description. The latter mentioned jewelry was intended 
for the Princess of Denmark. Then two mats, of superior and curious work- 
manship, were also presented. The presents given by the Prince to the Rajah 
of Cochin were a gold breast-plate * for memory. On one side of it was the 
picture of the Prince, and on the other side the Prince of Wales's feather-sign j 
also a gold watch and a gold chain. The front plate of the watch' was crystal. 
A thick, rich ring, on which the Prince's feathers were carved ; a sword with 
ivory handle. The case was made of steel, on which was carved * Given to 
the Maha Rajah of Cochin Rama Vurma by the English Prince. ' A book 
also, on the ' Priests and Warriors of the Middle Ages,' was presented. After 
this interview the Prince went to the residence of the Prince of Arcot. The 
Dewan of Cochin, the Chief Justice, Soobraminya Pillay, and Teroo Venkata- 
cherry. Judge of the Trichoor Division, went with him, " &c.t 

* A medallion. 

t It will be seen that the Native chroniclers took small note of the retinue, but were par- 
ticular about the names of their own people. The Anglo-Indian papers adopted the same 
principle. i 



NOTES. 



INDIAN SNAKES. 

When the Prince visited the General Hospital, on the 31st December, as 
mentioned in page 330, he saw a very remarkable collection of snakes, which 
are kept there for tue purpose of testing the efficacy of the various supposed 
antidotes of which -the virtues are from time to time urged on the notice of 
the medical authorities by enthusiastic believers. These were specimens of 
the— 

1 . Ophiophagus Elaps. — A snake which grows to the length of twelve feet, 
and which has the 2igxtt2ih\e, gotirmandize of eating any snake he can get. He 
is a congener of the Cobra, and is " very deadly. " 

2. Naja tripudians (Cobra di Capella). — Of which there are at least three 
varieties, all most venomous and deadly. 

3. BimgariLs cceruletts, or " Krait. " — A fearful little wretch, of a blue steel 
color, ringed with white, and with a snow-white belly ; a deadly insidious 
reptile, frequenting the thatch of houses, and even the beds of the indwellers, 
or dropping from the rafters, &c., on their heads and shoulders. He is not 
more then three feet long, but " he will serve." " Can such things be, and 
overcome us like a summer cloud without our special wonder .? " 

4. Bttngarus fasciatus. — This is larger than the Krait and not so common ; 
very retiring in his habits, of rural tastes, living in the field instead of houses. 
He is colored black and yellow, and is fair to look upon. 

5. Daboia Russellii (called by Gray Daboia elcgans, and known as the Tic 
Polonga in Ceylon, Borah in Bengal).— The Chain Viper, one of the most 
powerful and deadly in the world. But it is not so common as the Cobra or 
Krait ; and chiefly frequenting fields and grass-patches, it kills cattle, &c., rather 
than human beings. 

6. Echis carinata. — A very small, active, aggressive and deadly viper ; 
common enough in the Punjaub, North- West Provinces and Madras, and not 
unknown in Bengal. It gives some notice of its dangerous presence by the 
rustling noise made by its scales as it moves (" Carinata "). 

There were several large and hideous-looking snakes in the boxes with 
these deadly species, but they were comparatively or quite innocuous. Some 
were crotaline, which are poisonous but do not kill. And note a strange 
factl— 

549 



550 



NOTES. 



7. All fresh-water snakes are harmless : all salt-water snakes [Hydrop- 
hidce) are most poisonous ! Fortunately, few people come in contact with the 
latter. They may be seen in thousands on the banks in the Indian seas at certain 
times of the year. The gentlemen who exhibited the snakes, and the natives 
in attendance upon them, seized the deadliest with the utmost sangfroid, and 
showed us the fangs distilling crystalline " drops of death." There were some 
wretched dogs outside in various stages of dissolution and torture, the state 
of which would have moved the hearts of anti-vivisectionists. And yet who 
could object to such testing of antidotes, the success of any one of which 
woU)ld arm science with the means of saving many thousands of. human lives 
every year ? As yet no specific has been discovered for well-injected snake- 
poison. 



ON THE CHOLERA OUTBREAK IN 1875. 

There was acute disappointment caused to thousands by the change of 
programme, which not only deprived the Prince of the opportunity of visiting 
some of the most interesting scenes and districts in India, and of enjoying the 
sport which was to have been expected in. the Annamally Hills, but rendered 
extensive preparations, native and European, to do him honor and give him 
appropriate welcome quite abortive. That the reasons which led Dr. Fayrer 
to oppose the visit of the Prince were well founded, the following figures,, 
which are taken from the official return laid before the Army Sanitary Com- 
mission, will show. 

The deaths from Cholera in the districts which the Prince would have 
visited were as follows : — 



Madras and Mysore 

Hyderabad, Rajpootana, and Cen- ■ 
tral India. 



1874. 



1875. 



[4,649 



It is quite true that there was also a great increase of deaths from Cholera 
in districts which the Prince traversed, but the danger to be especially avoided 
was the outbreak or increase of Cholera in large camps and congregations of 
people where the disease was known to exist. That 1875-6 was a Cholera 
year may be shown from the following table of deaths : — 



Oudh 

Bombay 

North-West Provinces 
Piinjaub ... 



1874. 

68 

37 

6,396 

14 



1876. 



23,381 
47.573 
41,106 
14,643 



NOTES. 551 

Altogether, it is much to be thankful for that there was no outbreak in the 
Royal Camps. 

Description of Instruments presented by the Maharaja of Benares. The originals of the first 
five are found in the Hindu Observatory, Benares. — Jan. 5, 1876, — (Referred to in page 
348.) 

1. DiGANSA-YANTRA. — An instrument for finding the degrees of Azimuth of a planet or 
star. 

2. Dhruva-prota Chakra-yantra. — An instrument for finding the degrees of declina- 
tion of a planet or star. 

3. Yantra-samrat (Prince of instruments). — For finding the distance (in time) from the 
meridian and'the declination of a planet and star, and of the sun \ and the right ascension of a 
planet or star. 

4. Bhitti-yantra (a mural quadrant). — An instrument for finding the sun's greatest dec- 
Jination and the latitude of the place. 

5. Vishuvad-yantra (the Equinoctial circle). — An instrument for ascertaining the dis- 
tance (in time) of the sun, or of any star from, the meridian. 

N. B. — The method for finding all these is given in the " Mdnamandira Observatory," by 
Pandit Bapu Deva Sastri. 

6. Phalaka-yantra (invented by Bhaskaracharya). — An instrument for finding the time 
after sunrise. 

The detailed account of this instrument may be found in the translation of the Siddhanta- 
siromani, by Lancelot Wilkinson, Esq. (" Bibliotheca Indica," p. 214.) 

7. Chakra-yantra. — An instrument for finding the altitude and zenith distance of the 
sun, and also the longitude of planets. (" Bibliotheca Indica," p. 212.) 

8. Chapa-yantra (semi-circle). ) Instruments for finding the zenith distance and 

9. Tu RYi A- yantra (a quadrant). ) altitude of the sun. 

10. Sanku (Gnomon). From its shadow are ascertained the points of the compass, the 
place of the observer, including latitude, &c., and time. 

The Armillary Sphere represents the following circles : — namely, the Prime Vertical, 

Meridian, Horizon, Equinoctial, Ecliptic, &c., and by the threads that are fastened 

within the globe Hindu Astronomers determine the parts of any spherical triangle on 

the globe. 

The detailed account of this sphere may be found in the translation of the Siddhinta 

siromani,by Lancelot Wilkinson, Esq. (" Bibliotheca Indica," pp. 151— 176.) 

From the Maharaja were, also offered satchels and caps worked by the 
ladies of his own household, velvet mats, fifteen pieces of kinkob, fifteen vel- 
vet mats embroidered in gold and silver, window-curtains embroidered on silk 
and muslin, jewelled and enamelled swords, spear witli revolving pistol at- 
tached ; models of the Fort of Ramnagar ; an armillary globe illustrating the 
Hindoo system of astronomy ; a gold-enamelled inkstand, a m.odel of the 
Maurpankhi, or " peacock boat," boxes of photographs ; a model of the great 
Observatory of Benares in silver and sissoo-wood,with an English description of 
the various instruments by the '* Astronomer Royal " of the College, in other 
words, the astronomical pundit ; a clock, made in the Mahraja's house by an 
artisan in his employ, showing the signs of the Zodiac, phases of the moon. 



<siX 



552 



NOTES. 



dates of the month, days of the week, hours, and minutes ; a model of a larger 
clock of the same kind in the inner court of the Ramnagar Fort ; a translation 
of the Queen's "Life in the Highlands " into Hindee, each page illuminated, 
bound in marble and gold, with a diamond in each corner, th^ Royal Arms on 
one side and those of the Maharaja on the other, printed at Benares, and illu- 
minated in the fort by an artist in the service of the Maharaja, the marble 
executed at Agra from designs by the Maharaja, the whole enclosed in a velvet 
case. 



THE GOLD AND SILVER GUNS, BARODA. 

(Page 190). 

These are four in number, two of gold and two of silver ; but there are 
people who say or believe that the " gold " guns are of silver gilt. They are 
3-pounders. The carriages are drawn by white bullocks of remarkable beauty, 
caparisoned in robes of cloth of gold and gilt trappings ; even their horns are 
gilt. The limbers are covered with plates of silver, and the tumbrils and cais- 
sons are plated with the same metal, gilt. The report is very peculiar, sharp 
and metallic, with " a melodious twang," like that with which Aubrey's ghost 
was heard to vanish. The golundauze (gunners) are dressed in rich and fan- 
tastic uniforms to match this strange artillery. Altogether the battery would 
be a very rich capture, and " a charge on the guns " of Baroda would be very 
tempting to unprincipled and needy cavaliers. 



THE END. 







^- 



